All language subtitles for The.New.Look.S01E08.720p.ATVP.WEBRip.x264-GalaxyTV

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I've just learned that Carmel Snow

is on her way to Paris.

- Are you listening?
- I... I can hear you, yeah.

Harper's Bazaar must want her to
find the next big name in fashion.

- We must invite her to see your work.
- No, no, no.

Listen, Christian. Whoever Carmel
Snow chooses to write about

will become the most important
story in postwar couture.

- We must court the press.
- I don't have it yet.

The-The piece, the definitive
piece that will set the tone

for the entire collection.

I must find it.

You've already done enough to provide
her with a tantalizing preview.

Let's find the models first.

- We can't wait for that.
- I need to see my clothes

on an actual female form.

While you delay, she'll meet
with all the designers.

Balmain, Balenciaga, Lelong.

And not only with your friends.
But also your enemies.

- I don't have any enemies.
- Make some.

It's incredible.

You tracked down
Montrachet '22 Grand Cru.

Of course.

- Nothing less for our reunion, Carmel.
- Ah.

When you called me to tell me that
you were living in Switzerland...

... I knew I had to come
to hear your story.

You have no idea how much it
means to me that you're here.

Oh, darling.

Now, tell me truthfully...

how are you?

- I survived.
- Mm-hmm.

I don't know if I'm all right.

But the war... Ah, it's finally over.

But your atelier is still closed.

I don't think I'll ever open it again.

Oh, poo-poo.

Don't you utter another
word of that nonsense.

You closed your doors, while others
like, uh, Lelong stayed open.

I don't care to disparage
the actions of Lelong or...

... anyone else.

I just knew I had to stop everything.

You have been so traumatized.

- What is that?
- Hmm?

That, right there. Who gave that to you?

Oh. I make them.

No.

Oh, uh... The ones I make are
very fake and very beautiful.

They're even more beautiful
than the real ones.

Well, you see, Paris needs you.

I can't go back to Paris.

My... enemies... I have enemies...

Have spread lies about me.

Oh, good God. That's outrageous.

Rumors. Terrible lies that I
collaborated with the enemy.

Don't believe them.

I would never.

I will get Paris to welcome you back.

We need you. I need you.

And I will not stop until you
are back where you belong.

You're coming back to Paris.

Yes.

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- Hello.
- Hello.

- Magnificent.
- Yes.

Hmm.

Perhaps we could try her
in day dress number 47.

- Mm-hmm.
- I'm desperate to be part

of your first collection, Monsieur Dior.

- I dream of it.
- Uh-huh.

Hmm. So you're currently
modeling for Madame Grès?

- Yes.
- Mmm.

But Monsieur Dior's designs at
the Louvre took my breath away.

Thank you very much.

Um...

... please tell Madame
Grès that I say, "Hello."

Uh... Sorry.

Is she currently with another house?

Patou. She's working for Patou.

Oh.

Sorry, but no. Sorry.

So it's no?

- She's with Ricci.
- Taken.

- But... Please.
- Taken.

Schiaparelli.

You may go. Rochas.

Lanvin. Fath. Molyneux. Lelong.

She's perfect. We could
steal her from Balmain.

Would you, um, please give Monsieur
Balmain my kindest regards?

Really?

Well, we have no more models to see.

Find some more.

How? You've rejected all
22 of the finest models

- I could ever bring you.
- They're all taken.

I know you're sensitive

about offending the other designers,

Lelong in particular.

I am too, especially after we both left.

But... have you spoken to him?

No. But, Christian,
we have to push forward.

No, I'm not going to start
poaching from my colleagues

and leave them scrambling.

- There must be other options.
- Yes.

Make some enemies and
then take from them.

Or do you prefer I put
an ad in the paper

asking for out-of-work models only?

Why not?

- Because it's absurd.
- No.

- It's a brilliant idea.
- Hmm.

See? I knew you would come
up with something. Go.

Let me get that.

It's okay, Papa. I can do it.

Don't forget the seeds
for the herb garden.

See how good you are? Hmm?

Your brothers never cared
for the garden like you do.

Christian did.

Not like you.

Monsieur Friedman.

It's so good to see your store
so well stocked again.

I am wondering if you can tell me
where the basil seeds are hiding.

- Just behind the stalls.
- Oh.

Catherine?

It's so good to see you again.

You look so different than before.

You two know each other? Where from?

Catherine was working at
the repatriation center

when I was looking for Tania.

She t-tried to help me.

You... You still have her picture?

Yes.

I... I fear she... she's gone forever.

If you hear anything,
please let me know.

- What have you got there?
- Nothing.

You're looking a bit haggard.

Perhaps you should lay
off the sleep aids.

I will if you will.

Our supply is running low, by the way.

You're only supposed to take them
for sleep, not during the day.

- Lately, all you do is sleep in.
- Get more.

Go for a walk, why don't you?
Take André. Enjoy the day.

You're always looking out for me.

How's our little boutique coming along?

Well, I met with Carmel
Snow the other day.

She's looking for the next big
story, and I plan to be it.

You-You told her about me, did you?

- About my involvement?
- Yes, of course.

When she gets to Paris,
she's gonna lay the foundation

for our return.

And with the new perfume
we're producing, well...

... she's not going to find
a more interesting story

than the rebirth of Coco Chanel.

Where are you going now?

Hmm. I have a meeting.

Yeah, thanks. Sure.
I... I'd love to come.

- Thank you so much for inviting me.
- Not today, Elsa.

- But we're partners.
- This is serious business.

Snow may be in our corner,

but... the Wertheimers are
still trying to ruin us.

This meeting is with
someone who can help.

- Who?
- I d-don't have time to explain.

Just find André.

And... clean yourself
up, for God's sake.

Ask anyone in New York,

and they will tell you that I am known

for wearing nothing but Balenciaga.

I'm flattered.

I thought you only wore Chanel.

I was just with her in Switzerland.

It is tragic how they're
treating her here in Paris.

I count Mademoiselle Chanel as a friend,

but the situation she finds herself in

is one of her own making, I'm afraid.

Really?

I thought for sure that you would
be able to come to her defense.

There was a time when I could have.

But from what I've gathered
from friends in the government,

the evidence is... overwhelming.

She will need to answer
for... for her actions.

It's a terrible tragedy.

Yes.

Parisian couture.

It could influence how hundreds
and thousands of ordinary women

dress and dream and live.

Doesn't have to just be
for wealthy Parisians.

American industry could
bring French couture

to the entire world.

That sounds ambitious.

Fashion needs a new
leader. A figurehead.

I want it to be you, Cristóbal.

Your designs, your talent.

All of your talents,

it demands a much larger canvas.

I have never enjoyed the
press, nor the stardom.

Nor the spotlight.

What I do, I do for myself.

So, the world will have
to find another savior.

Come visit me in America
for a week, maybe two.

I will introduce you to all
our most influential buyers.

I will put you on the cover

of Harper's for the first time,

and I guarantee you, not for the last.

There are others better suited.
Pierre Balmain, for one.

Well, I'm seeing Mr. Balmain today.

Oh. Voilà.

What about Dior?

I heard that Marcel Boussac is
financing him. Is that true?

That is true.

I saw pictures of two of his dresses

at the Théâtre de la Mode.

I sense great potential.

Christian is not your man either.

And why not?

His talent.

His ambition is to create
dresses for only 30 women.

- Really?
- Yes.

That's intriguing.

Yes. An experiment of sort

to create the most beautiful
clothing ever created.

Well, Dior is meticulous.
Uh, in that way, we are similar.

Oh.

Monsieur Boussac dreams big.
He always has.

He won't want Christian Dior to
be so exclusive for very long.

It is not up to Boussac.
It is up to Dior.

And what does Dior think will happen

after he's finished
his little experiment?

Why don't you ask him yourself?

Great idea.

Ladies, you will put your names down.

Ladies, ladies, please.

Oh, excuse me. Pardon.

Dior.

Stop pushing. Stop pushing.
Please, ladies.

What... What... What on
earth is going on here?

Apparently, our advertisement went out

the same day the Ministry
decided to close the brothels.

This is the result.

Well, you have your
work cut out for you.

Hardly. None of them are suitable.

- Oh, look, they are beautiful.
- Please!

- None of them are suitable. Please.
- Hello.

L-Lady, please.

- Ladies, please.
- Yes, you're very beautiful.

What about her?

- Yeah.
- Who?

The mousy one?

Yes, just bring her up.

They must all be seen.

One at a time.

- Monsieur Dior! What are you doing?
- Uh-huh?

There is a line of prostitutes
in front of your house.

Yes. Not-Not-Not to worry,
Monsieur Boussac.

I came to check on my investment,
and this is what is happening?

Carmel Snow is in Paris.
She could visit at any moment.

Yes, but we're not ready yet, so,
uh, she won't be allowed inside.

But this is outside.

- Please.
- No, no. Listen...

... you never get a second chance
to make a first impression. Hmm?

Now please, I implore you,
Christian, get to work.

Marie-Thérèse.

Where are you from, my dear?

Um, here. Paris.

- Paris, yes? Your whole life?
- Yes.

And did you stay during the war?

Yes, uh, I stayed.

Oh, that must have been difficult, yes?

I had no choice. I had to
work in... in a brothel.

I'm sorry. That was
such a stupid question.

But now... tell me...

have you ever thought about... Please.

Have you ever thought about modeling?

No.

Well... Please excuse...
You have beautiful features.

I think you'd be a perfect fit.
Will you join us?

Um, yes... um...

- ... if it's a job. I... I need a job.
- Okay.

- Monsieur Dior?
- Hmm?

Please, um... don't expect
too much from me.

I... I'm not a real model.

Oh, my dear. Look. Please, look.

See?

Can you see? Magnificent.

Please say "yes."

It would be my honor to
have you wear my clothes.

I got your message, Herr Dincklage.

Look at this. "Agent
Westminster"? Really?

Are you trying to get me caught?

I wanted to make sure you'd respond.

By threatening me? Are you crazy?

But then, you do look a bit harried.

Hiding out in dark corners.

Small rooms must not agree
with you being on the run.

Are you gloating?

How does it feel not to have
the vast might of the Reich

behind your every deception and whim?

It feels unfamiliar.

Unwelcome, as you can remember.

You abandoned me.

It was flee or be captured.

The Resistance raided the church.

Someone tipped them off.

Any idea who that might have been?

Of course not. What do you want?

I need to lay low. Rest for a while.

Need help sorting out my travel
documents, and I need cash.

Really? Is that all?

I'm using an alias now.

Peter Lang, silk merchant.

Could be your business associate.

No. It feels too risky to be in
contact with you in any way.

Coco, my situation is desperate.

- I have my own problems.
- Well, I can help you.

How? By dragging me
back into the shadows?

The Wertheimers have a
stranglehold on my company.

I'm trying to convince Harper's to
write an article about my perfume.

So Agent Westminster must remain buried.

If anyone finds out I went on
that mission for Schellenberg,

it will be the end of me.

Well, I have every reason
to keep that secret.

What about documents?

Paperwork?

You think that there are any
that can tie me to the Nazis?

I have a contact here who
worked for Schellenberg.

She's helped me build my cover.

Um, I can have her look into it.

Well, reassure me of that,
and then I'll see about money.

Follow me back to the hotel.

- Do you like that?
- Mmm.

Well, that's what's known as Swiss jazz.

Ooh!

It's Coco, but who is she with?

Will wonders never cease?

Elsa.

- Looking splendid, as always.
- Hi.

You know him?

Yes, I do, as a matter of fact.

Actually owes me rather a lot of money.

I wonder if he'll remember.

André, this is an old friend of mine.

Ah, pleased to make your
acquaintance. I'm...

He's Spatz.

- Stop, Elsa.
- He's a German, in spite of his accent.

This is Peter Lang.

Well, we'll all catch up later.
Peter and I have things to discuss.

Yes. Let's catch up later.

I don't know.

What do you think it means?

Well, what did Carmel Snow say exactly?

Um, she was very cold...
surprisingly not very talkative.

But, um, she came to my atelier,

so I prepared a very nice lunch
and showed her my drawings.

And then what?

Then she took them.

- Without saying anything?
- Not a word.

She thanked me for lunch,
but nothing about my designs.

She just took them.

Has to be good, right?

She took them. Why would she take them

if she didn't like them?

W-Why wouldn't she say she
liked them, if she liked them?

Oh, I don't know.

Maybe she didn't like them and took them

so she wouldn't have to tell
me she didn't like them.

Well, I-I don't know what it means.

I hate Carmel Snow. Hate her.

Elsa knows everything.

She could turn us in and play the hero.

Impossible.

Forget that you care for her.

For all we know,
the British enlisted her

while they had her in custody.

- She could be working for MI6.
- No. No, no, no.

And how can you be sure?

Don't try to poison me against Elsa.

You know I'm right, Coco.

No, you must stop!

Elsa is a danger that we share.

Leave her alone.

You can, uh, talk to me, you know.

Your troubles, I see them in your eyes.

Poor Friedman.

Tania's lost.

At the repatriation center,
he asked if I knew her.

Did you?

People just want answers.

Simple answers.

There is no such thing.

Yes.

I knew her.

She was sweet and brave.

There's nothing in this world
that is your fault, Catherine.

You must believe me.

Are you crying, Papa?

Sometimes we have to.

Well, maybe they can help me,
uh, get my company back.

Tread carefully.

The tide of the war may soon be
changing in favor of the Allies.

You don't want to end up like me.

Sorry that I ever got
into bed with them.

Hello.

Christian, I was napping
earlier, and I dreamt you

and your brothers were here.

I think it's important
that we're all together.

I want you all to come visit.

Well, that sounds lovely.

- Come tomorrow.
- No, I can't come tomorrow.

Oh, come, just for a day.

I... Look, I would love to,
but I'm in the middle of work.

I have to see this fashion
writer for my business.

Your business. You're too busy.

I just want it to be as good
as it possibly can be,

and I don't have any time

for anything else right
now, Papa. That's all.

Why is your business so important?
Family is important too.

Go see your brother. Bring him here.

No... I don't have the time, Father.

Your business, your
business, your business.

You should never have started
your own business,

not when you had a
secure job with Lelong.

I mean, have you learned
nothing from my mistakes?

Opportunity should
never trump stability.

Go and see your brother.

Catherine is in no shape to do it,
or I would have asked her.

You're the only one.

He wants me to go and
visit my brother Bernard.

Why?

I mean, it doesn't matter why.

I can't do it. I can't go anywhere.

I am well aware of that.

Ai, Jacques. Don't be
short with me, please.

I think I will go out for a drink.

Will you join me?

I wish I could. I can't.

Of course.

I don't want to be another burden.

I know you have to design.

It's not just the designing.

It's also this preoccupation
with Carmel Snow,

as-as though the press was more
important than making clothes.

This is beautiful.

You should honor your father's wishes.

Go see your brother.

Carmel, I've been thinking.

I really would like to tell my story.

Oh, my dear. To do an article
about your return to Paris

is among my highest hopes,
but is not possible.

I don't understand.

The rumors about you,

they seem impossibly
challenging to overcome.

Oh, I see.

But certainly you can attempt
to-to move the needle.

Well, Harper's is insisting

that I keep looking for
the great collection

to rise from the ashes
of the last five years.

Carmel, come back to Switzerland.

I will show you what
real talent can deliver.

Of course, my dear.

I'll be there next week.

I need to get my skis
fitted for the holidays.

Fantastic! This is ideal.

I will show you my latest fragrances.

I look forward to it.

Must go. Bye-bye.

I don't have it yet.

The-The piece, the definitive
piece that will set the tone

for the entire collection.

PSYCHIATRIC HOSPITAL
JEAN-PHILIPPE BOURDON

Monsieur Dior, your brother
is in his usual spot.

He just woke up from a nap.

He doesn't usually like to
speak until dinnertime.

Yes, I understand.
I'd just like to sit with him.

Bernard?

It's me. Christian.

I'd like to sit with you. Yeah?

I'll do some sketching.

Do you see that?

There.

You should draw the trees.

The way they are dancing
reminds me of people.

How are they treating you?

Fine, if you like asylums.

Well, who doesn't like a little
peace and quiet now and then?

Plenty of quiet here.

Not much peace.

And you, how are you?

Uh, busy.

I've been given my own atelier,

so it's quite a lot of responsibility.

Finally, I-I'm designing for myself.

- Oh, your own business.
- Hmm.

What would Mother think?

Uh...

I think she would be
most displeased, huh?

Father's failures.

It was too much for her.

She was so sensitive.

It was his fault...

wasn't it?

Making a business out of fertilizer.

Running his shit factory and
losing it all in the crash

and bringing shame on the name of Dior.

Don't forget her famous edict.

"Never again shall the name
Dior feature on a shop front."

You still aren't drawing the trees.

No, it's a girl that I met.

Marie-Thérèse, a model
that we are using.

A girl? You?

She looks like Mother.

Perhaps.

Father called.

He wants us to visit him.

Oh, no. No, no. This is not possible.

- It might be nice.
- Please, Christian.

You're making me nervous.

I might hyperventilate, and then
they would all come rushing in.

Yeah. We d... We don't want that.

Come. Walk with me.

I need to go for a walk.

Uh, Monsieur Dior really wanted
to greet you personally,

but he had to leave town
unexpectedly to see his brother.

Will he be furious that you
brought me back to see these?

I just wanted you to have a
glimpse to see what he's doing.

Yes.

Thank you.

I couldn't bear to have
you seeing the work

of every other designer in Paris.

Yes.

I'm not seeing it yet, the piece
that will define the collection.

I'll be in touch.

I've been reading about life and nature.

We are all two parts.

Huh? The upper and the under.
The light and the dark.

In, uh, each of us,

they float like layers,
separated by a bar.

Our dark half...

our underneath, it needs to stay there,

pressed down into the Earth.

Only then can the other part,

- the light, rise up.
- Hmm.

That's what you need to show the world.

Tell Father I cannot come home.

Oh.

Coco, I have news.

I'm meeting my contact later.

That sounds nefarious.

Elsa, I'm only here to help.

W-W-Where's Coco?

We don't need your kind of help.

Well, I wouldn't be so sure.

You seem desperate.

Are you... Are you desperate?

No. I am completely and
utterly without desperation.

You know, I can help.

I... I can get things.

What sort of things?

The sort of things you need.

You know, we've been around
men like you our whole lives.

She can see right through you.

So can I.

I know what you need.

Oh. Spatz here was just
offering to help us.

Carmel Snow is coming here tomorrow.

I need you both gone.

Yeah, but, Coco, we're...

we're... partners.

All you are is a mess. Look at yourself.

Get out of my sight, Elsa.

Get out!

And you, go get me what I asked for!

I'll just be a moment. Please wait here.

You'll get me what I need, will you?

'Cause Coco won't. She hates me.

- She's always hated me.
- Elsa.

- Yeah?
- Nobody hates you. Just be patient.

I'm meeting someone who
can help us, all right?

Yes, but you're meeting
them for her, not me.

They'll be able to help
you as well, all right?

- Mmm.
- Sit tight.

We've been messaging for so long,

I forgot how mysterious you are.

Could it be that we were actually
in Schellenberg's office

when I last saw you?

Fräulein Klein.

I appreciate it.

Take two tablets every
morning for three days.

Thank you very much.

CHEMIST

How is he, dear Schellenberg?

- You haven't heard?
- No.

The Danish got him.

He has been in custody
for some time now.

He has been talking.

And his files? His documents?

Many of them were destroyed, but...

But?

Not all of them. There was no time.

And what about Operation Modellhut?

The Chanel debacle?

Mm-hmm.

I can't say for sure.

Hello?

Hello. Um, excuse me.

Um, I'd like some of your
best narcotics, please.

I can get the prescription
afterwards, if you...

- No. You can't come back here.
- Maybe I could just...

- I have a knife.
- Somebody, help!

Here are the papers
for your new identity.

From the same man who forged mine.

- Mm-hmm.
- He's good.

How good?

- Good enough for us.
- Hmm.

What have you planned for Chanel

and her friend?

Have you decided if they are a threat?

Let go! Stop it! Please!

- Let go of me!
- Go, go. Go. I'll find you later.

I don't want to come with you! No!

Please! Just don't.

I can't.

Oh, my.

Oh, it's fabulous.

I'm sure the bottles will
fly out of the store.

Then you will help me?

If only I could.

Look...

... I haven't forgotten all
you've done for fashion.

But, Coco, you must accept

that there are some hurdles
even I can't surmount.

Your present reputation makes it
unthinkable for us to champion you.

Harper's wants to find a...

a new postwar visionary to
lead us into the next chapter.

The world isn't looking
for old ladies like us.

I may be old, but I'm not dead.

I'm alive every day
with ideas. New ideas.

I need to do my work.

N-Now, I find myself in
this place, in this prison.

The world that once celebrated me

has now forgotten all that I did
for fashion and for the world.

No. No, you are not forgotten.

If you can't write about me,

perhaps you can help in another way.

Well, if I can, I will.

Will you take some bottles back with you

and get them into the hands
of people who matter?

If you can get your bottles
delivered to my hotel,

I'll do the rest.

Got to cut some herbs.

Let's have a salad for dinner.

Papa, there's something
I wanted to tell you.

- I'm listening.
- It's about Friedman's daughter, Tania.

Uh-huh?

I... I didn't tell you the whole story.

Fuck. Oh, God. Fuck.

Broke it.

Papa, did you hear what I said?

To the right a bit.

Uh, my mother would be horrified.

Oh. It's beautiful.

Papa?

Papa?

Oh, you're just in time.

Do you think it's too big?

No, no, no, no. It's perfect.

Well, what do you think?
Do you think it's too big?

I have to talk to you.

- What is it?
- Papa.

Papa. Papa.

- Catherine called.
- Mm-hmm?

Your father died.

Papa? Papa? No.

Papa, wake up. Papa? Papa?

It was his heart, my love.

It gave out.

I don't have the time, Father.

I want you all to come visit.

I don't have the time.

Family is important too.

We are all two parts.

The light and the dark.

Separated by a bar.

What have you done?

That's what you need to show the world.

Where are all the sketches?

I found it.

The definitive piece.

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