All language subtitles for S.T.T.A.S01E04.Namibia [eng]

Africa, there's nowhere
else, quite like it.

A billion people speaking
thousands of languages

in credible landscapes
and astonishing wildlife.

I want to explore Africa by whale.

I want to meet its people.

I want to experience
its breathtaking beauty.

From arid desert to dense
forest, from wide savannah,

to mighty river, I'm navigating
my way through a continent.

In this episode, I'm crossing
wild terrain in southwest Africa.

I travel into a part of the world
where the names tell the sport,

the land that God built in anger,
the skeleton coast, the gates of hell.

This is nothing.

Building a railway here seems like madness.

But when glad they did, as I embark on one

of the most spectacular
journeys on the earth.

The rivers here seldom run with water.

Namibia has the least
rainfall in sub-Saharan Africa.

It is home to what is considered
to be the oldest desert in the world.

Until the railways, getting
around was difficult to say the least.

And even with them,
it's not going to be easy.

But I'm starting my
journey in the very far

north of the country, in
the town of OSHY Kenga.

This is a busy place, isn't it?

OSHY Kenga, here
effectively, is a border town.

And Gola is about 200 yards up there.

And the whole place has
the smell of wheel and a deal.

And everybody here is
out to make a quick buck.

Basic, it's just trying to have them.

And that's the reason that
they built a brand new railway.

Which I'm going to take my journey on.

It's hoped that this railway
will spread the wealth,

even beyond the 1,500
people to stream back and forth

across the border each
day, buying and selling.

Here in Namibia, trade
and trains go hand in hand.

Can I buy some? Thank you.

It's a mopani world.

It's a delicacy.

I think they're supposed to be cooked.

But perhaps not as much as that.

I'm looking at a stage which is
called the Reverend Adam Balenga.

A stage.

The language station.

Yes.

The station behind this following.

Got a place all of you.

And it just would come up
with good journeys, would say.

Thank you.

Well, thank you.

But it turns out that just behind that
building actually means about a mile away.

Well, they certainly haven't
made the station handy.

When I get there, my route will take me

south passing Natasha National Park before
crossing the Namib Desert to the coast.

From there, I'll travel
via the capital to looteries,

where they're battling to rebuild
a railway across the sands.

The line I'm traveling on
today is just two years old.

And, apparently, passengers
are still an uncommon occurrence.

I want to go to Sue Med.

With a train.

With a train, yes.

Can you tell me how much is that ticket?

One hundred and fourteen.

Here we are. I have 200.

Yes.

There we go.

Less than seven pounds
per seven hour journey.

On a train, we only
want passenger carriage.

Morning.

What you have to
understand is that the majority

of the railways in Namibia
are freight orientated.

And the passengers are
just another piece of freight.

So we attach ourselves to
whatever freight train is leaving.

Here it comes.

Thank you.

Thank you.

Thank you.

Here we go.

I've got the entire carriage
pretty much to myself.

Overall, fewer than 200 passengers a
day use the trains in the whole of Namibia.

Well, that's goodbye.

Well, she can't go.

Because I'm hoping on this
journey there are other Army people.

Although that may not be as
easy as it sounds because Namibia

is one of the most
sparsely problematic places.

There are about two million people here.

And they're living in the area,
the size of Germany and France.

Goodbye.

It's not long before we
stop for more wagons.

Go there, go there, go there, go there.

Oh! At last.

Good morning.

Another passenger.

She's from the Avambo tribe.

And she's coming into my apartment.

Thankfully, the inspector
is a willing translator.

What is her name?

Do you're Paulina?

Do you're Paulina?

Yeah, her name is Griff.

Griff.

Thank you.

How do I say hello? I know.

I don't know.

I'm quite a bull.

Oh, hello, Paul.

Yes.

She's pensioner.

And now, yes.

And now, I've transmitted
when you get 60 over 60.

Yeah.

You have to give a discount.

Yes, yeah.

There you look.

This is my pensioner card.

Yeah.

We stop, and then we start.

And then we stop again.

The 200-mile journey takes eight hours.

When we arrive in Sumeb,
we have 40 wagons in town.

Six men.

We're there.

We've reached the platform.

After the free-for-all, spirit of OSHA
Kanko, Sumeb feels a bit orderly.

Thank you.

Wealth here isn't down
to the trade in the party

worms, but copper, tin,
lead, and other minerals.

And that all goes by train
to the coast for export.

Most visitors passing through,
though, come for a different reason.

The town we're in now at
Sumeb, which we see pretty well

healed in many respects,
is a few kilometers

from the Natasha National Park,
55,000 acres of wildlife reserve.

It's a great white place.

It's called the great white place
in the local Ashindonga language,

because at the center of
Natasha is a giant salt pan.

This is one of Namibia's
main tourist attractions.

But at first, you think you've
come here to stare at nothing.

Once a river ran through this place,
and created a gigantic shallow lake,

which is nearly under Mars
long, 30 miles wide in places.

And then the river ran
away and created a huge clay

basin with a layer of salt on
top of it that's visible from space.

This is clearly where they have
meetings of the flat earth society.

All around the salt pan, though,
water holes attract the thirsty.

These gazelles are rather relieved
that the lions are hot and tired.

Tomorrow, I've been invited
to sneak up on another icon

of African wildlife, which I'm
not entirely sure is a good idea.

But tonight, I'm camping
on top of a rocky outcrop

in the neighbouring on
Garver Game Reserve.

How many rooms are they here?

So we are only having three rooms.

Only three rooms in this entire area.

So means we only echo,
we dig, sleep, sleep on.

Only six people can come here.

Yeah, it's all you say.

Thank you very much.

Goodbye, thank you.

Bye-bye.

OK, this is my wilderness
camp for the evening.

Well, it's some tent.

Rumor has it, Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie.

Ruffed it here.

Isn't her six?

Yes, I don't need that sort of choice.

Oh, look at that.

Just a little balcony.

This is officially designated a camp

because the whole place can
be dismantled and removed.

Ecological flat bag, super luxury.

Yes, look, I've got my own
little private infinity pool here.

No, no, he isn't hers, but
that's enough for the two of us.

And they've booked me in for two weeks.

As if... In fact, I'm
practically just looking.

In a few hours at first light,

I'm venturing into the bush
with an anti-poaching team.

They're on rhinoceros
patrol, and I've been

told I have to wear
proper safari clothes.

They have to be stone
or parking, no, it's pink.

Is that stone?

That's quite stone, isn't it?

The trouble is, you either look like
a bush or you look like a rhinoceros.

And if you don't look out,
you'll be shot by a poacher

because they think you're a rhinoceros,
so... I'd stand out in this, wouldn't I?

I'd look like a lion, or something.

There's always a downside in paradise.

My journey through Namibia has
taken me to a Tosha National Park.

Poachers have recently killed
two rhinoceros for their halls.

And this morning, I'm joining the
ungava anti-poaching unit on patrol.

This is a serious business.

There's a real chance confronting armed
poachers not to mention hostile locals.

Obviously, rhinoceros.

- The lion? - Mm-hmm.

- Elephant? - Elephant.

- Okay.

- Might be also leopard. - Leopard.

- Or something. - Maybe leopard.

But if you see any lion
approaching, don't run.

If you run, then I'm gonna shoot you.

I'll leave the lion and
then I'm gonna shoot you.

Okay.

So in case, please, do not run.

Okay, all good?

I'm sorry, sorry.

But you look good today.

- Really? - Nature.

- Good. - Nature.

- Good. - Thank you.

- Because I spent a lot of time last
night wearing about what I should wear.

- Oh, okay.

- Benius leads his patrol into the bush
and what has become a daily necessity.

There's still a heavy market for rhinocorn.

And so in regions where
people are as poor as

they are in Africa, the
temptations are enormous.

So how do you find a rhino in thick bush?

It leaves its telltale traces.

Or perhaps I should say, mountains.

- Right, not. - But very old.

Right.

It might be off the
back three, four days.

So if you get first ones,
then you're gonna collect it.

- Touch them, then I'll feel them.
- Okay, give it a taste.

- Thank you.

But it's
looking forward to that.

- Ah, yes.

Fresh rhinoceros poo
is much more appetizing.

- Look at what's this, fresh.

- That's from the Zebra.

- That's from the Zebra, okay.

- We finally pick up the
trail of a mother and calf.

So this is the front poor, this is the
other one, and it's heading that way.

- Okay.

- Knowing they can charge at 30 miles an
hour, I'm glad I dressed him conspicuously.

- You see the big tree?
- Yeah.

- The big one in the back.

It's under their tree.

- It's moving.

- You see? - I see it, move.
- I see it, I see it.

- Yes, the mother and the
baby just looking at us now.

- Just looking at us now,
they're they are in the clearing.

Still wackling, I realize, a little bit,
because she didn't hear something over here.

One extraordinary privilege
had to be able to see.

- That's beautiful.

- It's a disturbing fact that
the horn we're looking at here

has a street value of
around 100,000 pounds.

It's worth more than it's weight in gold.

- Poaches are like fits.

They go in that area, and
they're just to get the area,

and then that day when they decide to
go poach it, it's like a bloom of a second.

- Yeah. - And then they get it.

- But what you're doing today
is monitoring, keeping high.

So this is one Rhino that we've seen,

even just from a distance, and we
can take off and say, "She's okay.

"- And you know
where she is, roughly.

- Yeah, we know at least
that she's still in the property.

She's not been poached.

- We know that she's safe.

- Under the watchful eye
of Binniers and his team,

the rhinos here have
a chance of a long life.

- From Sumeb, there are no
passenger rail services at all.

Not even a single carriage
attached to the back of a good swag.

So, I'm hit you lift on
a southbound freight

train, 120 miles to the
town of Ojiwarango,

hoping to get even closer to
another of Ninnier's wildlife pin-ups.

- Hello, Ojiwarango.

- Do you want to go?

- Ojiwarango? - Yeah.

- Yeah!

- What do you want to say?
- Ojiwarango.

- I am Griff.

- Jimmy. - Jimmy, hello, man.

- I don't want to eat it, yeah.

- Ojiwarango.

- Are we all set to go, then?
- Yeah.

- Can I pull it?

- You can pull it.

- Only freight trains go from here

because that's all this line
was ever designed to do.

But these railways weren't constructed
out of any population requirement.

They were supposed to
take the train, the up were

supposed to take the train,
the methods, the goods.

Anything that could be dug out.

But for me, this is a railway to heaven.

Namibia's bushfield, thick
with scrubb and stunted trees,

yields a series of
endlessly unfolding vistas.

- This is undoubtedly in many
respects that forgive me here.

- The coldest place to be on this train.

- I'm leaving Jimmy and his goods
wagons to continue their journey

because there's something
near Ojiwarango that I want to see.

This is the cheater capital of the world,

home to the last large
population in Africa.

But they share this land and they aren't
everyone's idea of perfect neighbors.

The country we're driving through
now is prime and maybe in farmland.

Some of the farms here are as
big as 100,000 hectare in size.

And the cattle roam around.

And this is the sort of
territory that cheaters thrive in.

But as far as the forest farmers
concern, the cheater is seen as a predator,

seen as a form of vermin,
and they want to kill them off.

Cheaters are now the most
endangered cats in Africa.

And when adult cheaters are
shot, orphaned cubs are left behind.

I've come to the renowned cheater research
centre to see what they do with them.

The centre is run by Dr. Laurie
Marker, originally from Detroit,

she's devoted 40 years
of her life to cheaters

and is one of the
world's leading experts.

Dr. Laurie, I presume.

Nice to have you here.

I'm good.

We're going to go out to where
we're going to run the cheaters.

And these are orphaned cheaters.

The mother was shot and
they brought the cubs to us.

We're going to exercise our cheaters.

So we've got a lure set up
over here and we're going

to show you that and
you can maybe give it a try.

And this is a machine that
was designed for greyhounds.

Right.

You want to give it a try? Yeah.

So this goes in two directions.

It's got a neutral in the middle.

So if I go like that, it just sets off.

Oh, that's the other way.

Well done.

But the point is, this will
travel, what sort of speed?

It's about 45, 50 kilometres an hour.

It's half speed of what
a cheater could run.

What they have is extraordinary power.

They crouched down just to get
the sense of tummy and I go right.

Well, not to 60 in just three
seconds is impressive enough.

But watch how they use their
muscular tail as a counterbalance.

Other way their head and gaze
stay locked on that moving target.

It's an astonishing sight.

Having been bottle-fed, these cheaters
are too tame to ever be released.

These activities like this that are
able to give them a quality of life.

It's terrific.

Caring for orphans is
one part of the work here.

They also help prevent orphans
being created in the first place.

Here in Namibia we're
different than most

countries because 80%
of our wildlife actually

lives on the same land as
where all the livestock lives.

One of your job is to
educate farmers because

their temptation is
to see the cheaters as

vermin, as like a fox that something
that needs to be eradicated.

That's what you're
trying to stop happening.

If you protect your livestock,
then your wildlife is out there.

The cheater prefers as do the
leopards and all the other predators.

They prefer wildlife.

They don't want to go out want
and only eat in your livestock.

And that's why livestock management
plays such an important role.

How can the fastest
predator on the planet exist

alongside cattle encodes
without eating them?

It's a problem, but Laurie thinks she's
found an answer and it's a cute one.

It involves breeding
and then giving away

Anatolian shepherd
dogs to farmers, cheaters

are scared of them and
it's been hugely successful.

Hello, hello, hello, hello.

So the whole idea is that these dogs are
embedded with herds from the earlier stage.

They go up with their heads
and on a later date they go out

with them in the wild and they'll
bark if cheaters come close.

I don't know why they're
not cheater years of

predator, I just don't
look like a cheater.

I look like a goat.

I'm picking up my rail
journey again, Adusicals.

From here, I'm taking
a train 100 miles across

the Namib desert to one of the
most surprising towns in Africa.

At first glance, there's
nothing untoward

about my departure point,
at least I know where I am.

This is the most notable landmark in
this place, it's called the Witch's Head.

It's a water tower.

The end of that head was the
magical elixia for all steam trains.

Once upon a time,
Usukos was an essential

stopping off point to fill up with
water before puffing across the desert.

Even though the trains are diesel, there
is this is still a last stop town, fuel and

bottled water for the empty place ahead
and in my case, well, I have other needs.

Can I just ask you, is it alright
if my film crew come in here?

We're shooting a video,
we are for British television.

Good morning.

For ITV.

I'm very good.

Thank you.

How are you this morning?

I am in fact how can I ask you to be OK.

I've been allocated the last wagon.

I think I've seen enough freight trains
by now to know the necessary comforts.

We're off ski.

And I'm about to enter a region
once known as The Gates of Hell.

I'm making my way across Namibia by train.

Since the railways here
were built for freight,

rather than passengers,
I'm finding myself

transported as a commodity,
as I head into the Namib desert.

The Namib is just an area of
sand, there is nothing there.

They can't mark out
geological features because

the sand, the area of the
world is shifting the whole time.

It's literally a map.

The Namib is 55 million years old,
said to be the oldest desert on our planet.

It stretches along nearly the entire
1,000 miles of Namibia's western coast.

This is our planet, it's in the
raw bear naked and close.

It's great by nothing
except the wind and the

sighted movements of
the earth's rust for the last

thousand billion years and as
such, it looks like nothing on earth.

It looks otherworldly.

We could be on Mars.

Giant 1,000 foot sandumes
separate the sea from the interior.

It was this unforgiving environment that
led sailors to call it, The Gates of Hell.

Not only is there nowhere to shelter during
the storm, but on around 180 days a year,

when the fierce desert
heat collides with icy cold

air from the Atlantic, a
thick fog engulfs the coast.

No wonder then, there is a graveyard
of ship breaks all along the shore.

But we must shelter where we can.

This is common wagon,
this is open wagon, this

is scenic, this is
carriage, this is broken.

To four hours, my train
terminates at a town

that doesn't look
particularly familiar.

It doesn't look like it belongs here.

Well, this is a different
sort of Africa, isn't it?

This is swack up mud
and if that sounds like

a German name, it's
because it is a German name.

Over 100 years ago Namibia was a
German colony and this was its main port.

It's where the German holidaymakers
still find their place in the sun.

You can hear, you can
hear German, spoken

quite a lot around
here, this is supposed to

be in all the guidebooks,
Bavaria by the

sea, and that's only for people
who've never been to Bavaria.

But it is German, the German lingers, which
is quite an achievement because they only

actually occupy this
place ruled Namibia for

30 years, but they did
leave a very important

legacy because like
all the colonial powers,

what they wanted to
do was exploit the place.

And in order to do
that they realised that

the desert was going
to be an impossibility.

But being firm believers
in advancement through

technology, in 1897
they built the first railway

line, so that they could get
at the rest of their new colony.

Before then the only
way to travel the 230 miles

to the capital at Lindhuk
was by Ox and Cart.

It was a grueling
journey, it took three

weeks, and then the
oxen needed a further three

months to recover
if they survived at all.

It is a deadly desert.

This place is totally unlivable
in, you would have thought.

It's about as dry as any area on earth, and
yet the top now have always survived out here.

Top now means the people of the
point, those who live on the margins.

But they weren't struggling
in the desert, they were

thriving well before the
arrival of any Europeans.

And these people were content to live here.

They didn't come here
to take things away

or to discover minerals,
but they managed to

exist here, in harmony with its
environment for thousands of people.

I'm on my way to meet a
top now named Herman,

at a dry riverbed that still provides
enough moisture for vegetation.

Hi.

Including a sort of melon that has
been central to the top now's existence.

How are you?

Nice to meet you.

Nice to meet you.

Nice to meet you.

Thank you.

Do I welcome?

Are we going to collect
some melons? Yes, of course.

I wait for you already.

Oh, well, maybe leave.

I'm sorry about that.

You've got some
melons there, they're very

ripe, and when we see
them like that, do you

know they more resemble a
squash or a pumpkin, don't they?

Can I have a look at it? Yeah.

Look at the seeds in the
very ripe flesh in there.

The flesh has a high water
content and is edible raw.

It can be cooked into a
sweet porridge and the

seeds can be dried, roasted,
or even ground to make flour.

Nothing is wasted.

Now, the melon, what is its name?

In our mother tongue, it is Nara.

Nara.

Nara.

Yeah.

It sounds like a music.

So how would you
say, in your language, in

your mother tongue,
we are going to connect.

It doesn't sound like music, let's go.

Let's go.

The Nara is a hardy fruit, surviving
temperatures of over 50 degrees centigrade.

And each specific thorny bush is identified
and owned by a family over generations.

Well, whilst you are
knocking out the ripe

Nara, it sounds like
an inflated football ball.

I'm just going to listen to them first now.

Yeah.

Is that a football or a bowling ball?

I'm going to come over
here and do this one.

Yeah.

That sounds like a cricket ball.

This one?

Which is the ripest of those.

Nara is the one that is this one.

Okay.

The one righting amongst the thorns here.

Here we are.

It's a fine and heavy thing.

The Nara is the culinary
equivalent of a Swiss

Army knife, a remarkable array of
possibilities all in one portable package.

Most usefully turned into a
paste and dried in the sun.

It hardens and sweetens
and lasts for years.

And look, it's made
itself into a sort of toffee

and Herman calls this
his top-nour chocolate.

So what you can do is roll it in to
make a sort of sausage, break it off, okay.

And just sort of chew
the end of the sausage.

Mmm.

And it's good.

And it does taste a chocolate.

It does taste a chocolate.

Wow.

I've come a long way right into
the desert to find my perfect food.

For the final leg of my journey, I've flown
to Namibia's most southerly port, Nudarets.

For the last 16 years,
this place has been cut

off from the rail networks after the
desert sands swallowed the existing tracks.

But that's about to change.

And I've been invited to take a test run
on the brand-new section that'll reconnect

this town and turn it into a
major center for import and export.

In the early 1900s,
Nudarets was used as a place

to land troops during
the German occupation.

It took off.

That really died.

Fishing became central
to the economy, and that's

because the waters here
are out of the ordinary.

Everything along this
coast from the fog to the fish

is dependent on a current
called the Ben Guela current.

It's a cold current
that comes up from the

Antarctic, but it brings
an incredible amount

of plankton and makes
the fish fat and also oysters.

So, I'm heading out
into the bay with Lenny,

who is gang to see
first hand what it takes

to produce around 13
million oysters a year.

I see it, OK, like that, OK.

And how many bags are you going to put on?

I was this place that I was going to put in
18 gigs on, and it was 7 days or 18 gigs.

The oysters are
imported as tiny babies all

the way from Bichili,
and left in the shallows

for five months before being
moved here to the deeper waters.

They're put into these bags
now, and then they're stuck

on these ropes, and
they're just hung in the water.

And after three months,
they're big enough to eat.

And that's fast.

An oyster growing in British waters
would take five years to mature.

All the juicy plankton are
here just plumps them up.

It's science fiction,
isn't it, these are

science fiction, these
are triphied oysters.

And that's why agriculture
is big business here.

And of course, when it comes to lunch,
looter it, there really is only one option.

There we are, somebody
wrote this one saying,

it was a bold man
that first ate an oyster.

But I find after the first one,
the next few go down quite easily.

The Benguela current is not only
responsible for creating fat oysters.

Over 90 million years,
it also carried another

valuable commodity
here, washed into the

ocean from South African rivers, and
now scattered in the Namibian sands.

Luderitz is right on the
edge of the forbidden area.

Well, the restricted area, you are
simply not allowed to wander into it.

And the reason is,
there are diamonds there.

This area, it's the size of whales.

No, I'm not kidding.

It really is the size
of whales, it's 20,000

square kilometers,
and you are forbidden to

go in there and start walking
about picking up diamonds.

And the trouble with
any restricted area is,

immediately it's called a
restricted area, I want to go there.

But since there have
been incidents of people

being shot, when wandering too close
to mining operations, I don't think I will.

I'll stick to the bit eight miles from
Luderitz that's publicly accessible.

This is Colman's carbon, the sand
giveth and the sand take it away.

In the 1920s, it was the center
of the Namibian diamond blusher.

After a railway worker,
clearing sand from

the tracks, found a
diamond lying in the sand.

1,200 people came to live
here, and times were good.

They had a theater,
a bowling alley, and a

casino, and this cranking
house, or hospital,

which was the first in Africa
to have an x-ray machine.

But the x-ray machine wasn't there in order
to check up on the health of the patients.

It was there to check whether
they'd swallowed any diamonds.

They were trying to
smuggle out of the place.

The town only lasted 30 years, when
the diamonds went, so did the people.

The only trouble is
they did actually find

their diamonds in the
dust, and once you know

that, you can't help thinking, "I
wonder if you just missed one.

"This region is one of the
windiest places on the planet.

It's the reason the sands here are
constantly shifting, covering and reclaiming.

It's also the reason the old rail
line was closed 16 years ago.

Now this new line is
almost complete, though

the exposed section through the dunes
will always need a bit of dusting down.

Closer to town, workers are laying
the final few sections of the track.

It's there straightening the line here, and
everybody does it together in rhythm, just

to give it a little shove,
because we're on the

last few miles of a
track, which effectively

has been worked on for the last 10 years,
because there's an area of shifting deans,

about seven kilometers,
and over the last

century the track
deteriorated, and now this

is a big thrust, a big, big
initiative to get this line open.

What is the song
you're singing? Pardon.

Pardon.

Pardon.

Pardon.

Pardon.

Take it.

Take it.

Take it.

Push it.

Take it.

Push it.

Take it.

Push it.

Anyway, say say.

Anyway, say say.

Anyway, say say.

Whoop.

Whoop.

Whoop.

Whoop.

Whoop.

Okay.

I'm going to be the former,
and I think I'll be the former.

Come on, say say.

Whoop.

Whoop.

Whoop.

Whoop.

Whoop.

Whoop.

Whoop.

Excellent.

The completed section
is undergoing its final

checks, and I've been
invited on a test ride.

This is a fitting end to
my trip across Namibia.

So here I am.

I am taking what it affected me.

One of the first trains into
the last stop on my line.

It was great to meet the gang,
working away, singing away.

Because this project is more
than just an economic advantage.

This project here is
also a form of memorial.

Because this train line,
when it was originally

built, was built by the
colonialists, with slave labor.

And for every 100 meters of
the original track, a man died.

So it's a moving thing to
be traveling on this line.

Soon, this railway will reconnect
to the rest of the country's network.

It will allow goods to flow to
South Africa and up to Namibia's

northern border, where I began
my journey, a thousand miles ago.

Well then, if I were to sum up Namibia
in one word, it would be spectacular.

The place puts on an incredible show.

It may not be the
easiest country to travel

across by train, but
it's been a hell of a ride.

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