All language subtitles for S.T.T.A.S01E03.Zambia & Zimbabwe [eng]

Africa.

There's nowhere
else quite like it.

A billion people speaking
thousands of languages.

Hey, hey, hey, hey, hey!

Dreamlike landscapes
and a paradise of wildlife.

I want to explore Africa by rail.

I want to meet its people.

I want to experience its
beauty and face its challenges.

Will it be glamorous?

Will it be tough going?

Will it even be possible?

Travery to Africa by train
can sacrifice me a hot,

a bothersome, and indeed
quite a protracted business.

But there are moments
when it all comes

together in one glorious
magnificent experience.

From arid desert to vivid grassland,
from wild forest to pounding river,

from station to wonderful
station, are navigating a continent.

In this episode, I'm
traveling through Zambia

and Zimbabwe via one of
the wonders of the world.

Those are the stupendous Victoria Falls.

And this is the de-equally
stupendous Victoria Falls Bridge.

It was built not just to allow
me to walk some 300 feet

above the Zambia River, but also
as part of an extraordinary British

ambition to allow a
person to get on a train in

the Mediterranean and
get off it in Cape Town.

It was a crazy idea, and this
is an equally crazy adventure.

But it's going to be unforgettable.

I'm in the quiet little town of
Kassama in northern Zambia.

And I'm waiting for a train.

Good morning.

Morning.

Train is late?

Yes.

This is not an ideal start to my journey.

I'm trying to make my way
south from here in Kassama

through Zambia's mineral-rich copper
belt and onto the capital, New Saga.

Then I'll cross into neighboring Zimbabwe

and continue onto below the historic
headquarters for Zimbabwe's railways.

That's a total of some 800 miles.

But this, my first train in Zambia,
suggests it isn't going to be easy.

This is the train arriving in
Kassama, and it's about 33 hours late.

No wonder everyone is happy to see it.

People have been waiting
days, days to get aboard the train.

And both the people
getting on and coming off

appear to be taking a
lifetime supply of goods.

Abble.

This is Zambia.

We're traveling through an area.

What people always
say, this is the real Africa.

There's this rest of Africa.

There's just a mirage of a false Africa.

But Zambia is a wild place and a big place.

So if we were to say, how big is Zambia,

let's do it in the size of whales,
meteorology, which I know we all understand.

So it's about 30 whales at half of it.

Over half of it is still covered
with this yombo forest.

I'm on my way to Mapika, a town of particular
importance for Zambia's rail network.

It'll take six hours to get there over
mostly flat terrain, not that you can tell.

It's an active doing to have a cup of tea.

I've been a slower terrain.

I've been on more appointed trains.

But I've not been on a train.

But it's a bit like being in
the north Atlantic in a storm.

That's right.

This country is home to 13 million people.

Yes, I'm going to Lusaka.

Yes.

Yes.

English is the official
language, which is handy for me.

What driver are you? A member.

A member.

A member.

A new speak member.

Yes.

I don't speak member, I'm sorry.

I don't know if I can do this.

No speaking English.

You speak English well.

But Zambia has at least 17 other languages,

and many people can
speak half a dozen or more.

Kasama.

Kasama.

That's where we came from.

Kasama, Kasama, Kasama, Kasama.

Well, so far, we haven't
understood a word that each of us

have been saying, but we've
been having a long conversation.

OK, OK.

Hello.

What's that in bed? Hello.

Do I have that in
bed? No, no, no.

After a few hours on this train,

I begin to notice little
clues that suggest this line

wasn't built by the British, the French,
or any other bygone colonial power.

In fact, this particular line was built
in the 1970s by communist China.

Are they invested for the 400
million dollars into making an hour?

320 bridges, 22 tunnels,
and 1,155 miles of track.

They called it the Freedom Railway.

They're actually
traveling on Mount St.

Tom's great African adventure.

You might wonder why you would
want a railway that runs through here.

And the reason
is under the area.

Zambia is full of mineral work.

Copper, mainly, but also
emerald, diamond, gold.

And the struggle has been to get
out that stuff and get it out to the coast.

It has been a colossal
commercial enterprise.

And the Chinese didn't
just build the trains

and the rails, but
glorious stations, too.

1970s, communist architecture,
under a blazing, African sun.

So this is my first stop in Pika.

It's a little more than a sort of
truck stop on the Great North Road.

But this dusty place is where you come.

If you want to learn how to
work on the trains in Zambia.

Every locomotive driver
working on the Chinese

built railway has to
graduate from this college.

It's a prestigious job that
requires a lot of training.

Hi, I'm Greg.

Good to meet you.

Good to meet you today.

Mr. Chisaka has an eager new pupil.

Chris is from London.

He's passing through a
lot of countries in Africa.

He wants to be part
of us today, wants to

learn what it means to
be a locomotive driver.

Not since Jones the steam, first took
either the engine out from the shed.

Has there been a more willing,
well-strain driver than me?

This is a big deal.

If I can break the train.

Students are not only required to learn how
to drive the train, but over three years,

they must learn how it works,
how to fix it if it breaks down,

and how to avoid some
uniquely African hazards.

Can I ask a question, please?

Do you get elephants on the line?

Elephants, lions, buffalo.

But what if you find a lot of animals?

Maybe they're sleeping.

You need to learn how
to play immediate stuff.

The course requires
drive and determination.

So are these young Zambians
fulfilling a lifelong ambition?

I had never seen a locomotive in my life,

and this was the first
time I ever saw a train.

This... when you came on this course,
this was the first time you seen a train.

And I never imagined myself driving.

And everyone was like,
I'd go driving a locomotive.

Wow, I love it.

In the classroom, we learned the theory.

But before putting it into practice,

I want to get to know Hendrix and
Annie, two of my fellow students.

When you applied for this course, do you
know how many other people applied for it?

Well, I'm close to 200.

You're 100.

So it was quite a
competitive thing to get it.

How many women locomotive
drivers are there already?

We're the first on the Zungan side.

I'm a very special person.

I mean, you're looking for it.

You're looking very
cool, dude, at the moment.

Thank you.

Thank you, brilliant.

Element of Michael Jackson.

Oh, well, well, well.

This is what I'm putting on the outfit.

OK, you know, I dance like Michael Jackson.

You're here.

OK, I know what even in
England you can find that.

Yeah, that's what I do.

OK, this is a man of love.

I'm not entirely sure how
useful moonwalking is

when you're at the
helm of a 200-ton diesel

locomotive powering
through the dusty African heat.

No!

Only Tony Wright went
behind the controls in the

care that you find out
who has the right stuff.

Showing admirable commitment to the job,

Annie has ditched her
weak, thrown away her

high heels, and
pulled on her boiler suit.

And it's showing me just
how it should be done.

There you go.

What's that? Yeah.

OK.

All right.

Staring at the dizzying
array of dials and panels,

I wish I had paid a little bit more
attention in this morning's class.

I'm going to some of my whistle.

That's the brakes released,
then I'm going to put it into one.

Wet for 42-step moving.

Ladies and gentlemen, this is
the slow train from over here.

Two over there.

And we are moving.

Don't forget, we're moving a bit faster.

We've gone immediately up to 15.

Brakes.

The brakes?

What was it they said about brakes?

If there wasn't any sense of
that, ahead of me, and it was...

I would need to start braking out.

So how do we stop?

OK, I start to brake.

Your hand should be here.

Yeah.

This is the brake.

Yes.

I'm in neutral.

Yeah.

And I start to brake.

Yes.

And I can put the full brake on.

And we have stopped.

OK.

OK, that was like 25% of 100.

I was asking.

Can I just say that?

Can I just say that?

I'm only confident because
the two of you are standing here.

Today, I fulfilled one
of my lifelong ambitions.

Oh, I've driven a lot of change.

Bye bye, Annie.

Nice working.

And I've no doubt that in
the future, Annie and Hendrix

talented, cool young
Africans will fulfill theirs.

Whatever, they may be.

Thank you very much.

Back of the station and my
train isn't going anywhere.

Feeling like I'm now a legitimate
locomotive driver, I wonder if I can help?

You're a bit worried about time and
how long we've got before the train leaves.

And I sort of discovered that there is
an in fact, an engine at the moment.

One of the great joys
that traveling by train

is that whoever you are, it takes you
through the back gardens of the world.

And nowhere has a back
garden quite like Africa.

I'm traveling by train through Zambia.

Crossing into Zimbabwe via
Victoria Falls on a spectacular journey.

My train has been reunited
with its engine and we're off.

I'm going from Empica to
where the Chinese built railway

stops and the rail hub town of
Caparium and Poshy, 250 miles away.

Somewhere out there under
the earth are vast amounts of

copper, which are the reason
that this train line was built.

And the reason my next destination exists.

Much as I had to miss the views,
it'll be a few hours before I get off.

So there's time for a kip.

Well, this is the rather
triumphant conclusion to the line.

And all the guidebooks
say exactly the same thing

about this place, get out
of it as quickly as possible.

Capiri is little more than a junction.

Railways from Zambia's copper
mines to the north and west

converge to meet the road network
and the railways heading south.

And miners, truckers and
chances create a pretty edgy mix.

This is Zambia's version of Dodge City.

I'm intrigued to find out what life is like

because let's face it, the
guidebooks are no guide.

Hi.

Hi.

What are you playing?

I'm playing in the old train cards.

Playing cards?

Yes.

What game? Let's go.

I don't know that game.

I have a suspicion that gambling
might not be the only vice on offer here.

It may only be 4 p.m. but it's at me.

Happy hour.

So how does a stranger
make friends in a town like this?

Can I get a drink?

I can get a drink, all right?

As long as it's what
looks like Irish cream.

Oh, come.

Where are you? Good job.

Good job.

Good job.

Have a drink.

Good job.

OK.

This is what I bought.

I've passed over.

20 quatcha.

How do I do?

Stop myself off vacuage and show up on.

How do I even know what you look like?

And said that everybody
wants to sit in this car.

Yes, this is how you make friends here.

Suddenly, I'm the most popular man in town.

One, two, three, three,
three, three, three, three, three.

I do.

I don't like that.

What's your name?

This little Caribbean is
a rough and rowdy place

far from the tourist trail with
a wild west sort of welcome.

But I don't even drink.

So as everyone else enjoys the contents
of my bucket, and they might excuse us.

That's the Shibuco bar.

Now, Shibuco is like,
well, it's a locally brewed,

fermented sort of beer made
out of maize, which is the staple

food, the staple drink, the
staple everything around here.

I'm around here.

It's certainly pretty lively.

d Fazza, d d d d d d d
d d d d d d d I'd hope to get

the train from here at his
ambious capital, Nusaka.

But there is one for two days.

One day, six, five, six.

So, if it's all right with everyone, I
think it's time to get out of Dodge City.

OK, off we go.

125 miles by road versus two
days in Capiri, not much contest.

I'm going by taxi, and they reckon.

We reckon that that will
cost about 600, quite sure.

It's about 50 minutes.

The road to Lusaka is crowded
with trucks carrying tons of copper.

d d The whole place seems
to be one thriving market.

So, after three hours on the road,

it's no great surprise to
find that Zambia's capital

is a bustling modern city at
home to nearly two million people.

d d d But despite all the resources,

electricity prices are too
high for many residents.

They rely, instead, on charcoal from the
surrounding forests for cooking and heating.

On the edge of Lusaka,
there's a gigantic market,

which may be the dirtiest and
dustiest market that I've ever been in.

This is charcoal city.

The fucker told us that there's
only one thing on sale here.

And that's fuel, because there
were only 200 miles in the equation.

About that? Something like that? Yeah.

It's freezing cold.
It's the winter, isn't it?

- Yeah. - Yeah.
- There's been a gap here between rich and poor for years.

Historically, the
wealthiest weren't African.

The main reason the white people,
asongers like me, have come to Zambia

from the very beginning is to
get hold of the mineral wealth.

The Chinese idea to build a railway to
get at Zambia's resources wasn't a new one.

The first railways
were built by the British.

Over 100 years ago, they're
pretty much the same purpose.

They came with their picks and shovels,

and what they were looking for in the
Zambian rock was a telltale glint of green.

d d - Wow.

- So right here, we have a perfect
crystal formation of an emerald.

When it comes to emeralds, Rashmi Sharma
knows exactly what she's looking for.

- If this was one solid
piece that was an inch long,

it would be worth hundreds
of thousands of dollars.

- To turn rocks into flawless
cut gems, takes a workshop

of skilled Zambian craftsmen
working by hand and eye.

- This is the first stage.

Griff, this is Kendrick.

Kendrick is our best cutter.

- When you make a thing like this, do you make mistakes sometimes?
- Not really.

- No?

- It's like a mistake.

You swear, Stone?
- I do.

- You don't want to do that.

- No, obviously not. - Right, funny.

- No, no, of course, I understand.

- And how long did it take
you to learn to do this job?

- I've struggled a bit for like five years
and after that, I was getting hang of it.

- So, it took Kendrick five
years to learn the basics.

But after observing, for five minutes, I
feel ready to enter the Zambian dual trade.

- All right, so, Griff, you're going to
be making a pair of lion head cufflinks.

- Step one, drill the eye holes.

- Oh, hi, you got it.

- Now, where are those big Zambian rocks?

- All right, so you'll find
four little rubies over there.

- Those are rubies, those are tiny.

And my goodness, this
barely qualifies as a dual.

- They're very high-quality rubies,
regardless of them being so small.

- They're pretty valuable.

- But it's only when
you try to place highly

valuable stones in
precisely the right place

that you begin to appreciate
the microscopic art of the jeweler.

- This is the point where I
grasp them like this and go, - Yes.

- And it goes flying through the
air and land somewhere over here.

- It's just, can't see the tweezers.

- Is that the tweezer?

- It's impossible to see anything.

- Woo! - No.

- It's impossible if
you had the slightest

quiver that you have to
have a very steady hand.

- Place it into the eye hole.

- It's going in and out of focus.

- Stop moving around.

- Woo!

- Hey, um, it's there.

- Okay.

- I'm not sure who's more
nervous here, me or Rashmi.

- She may be regretting
letting me try this, but eventually.

- All right, it's in.

- Yes.

There we are.

Take a look at that, you see?

- That's a bit of bling for you.

Lion cufflings with Zambian ruby eyes.

I saw treasure them
for the rest of my life.

They only took me a day to make.

Emeralds, rubies, and other
minerals were taken by rail

down to South Africa and into the
coffers of the British Empire for decades.

And today, goods still
seem to be the priority.

It's the same old story.

The freight is running, but the
passengers have been abandoned.

And I can't help thinking
of the old Zambian.

It's better to walk than curse the road.

- Good morning, good
morning, sunny morning.

- But it's even better to get the bus.

I'm heading southwards on
a road that frustratingly runs

parallel to and often
crosses those railway tracks.

Tracks lay down as part
of a remarkable grand

ambition, known as the
Cape Takaro Railway.

The British at the time were
filled with an incredible optimism.

It was a dream to link the whole of Africa,

to have a sort of strip of
peak on the map that went

from Cape Town in the far
south to Cairo in the north.

And this was a particular
dream of one man, Cecil Rose.

He was the son of a
vicar in Bishop Storford,

and who decided to go
off and start hunting for

diamonds, and then only
the De Beers diamond lines.

It made him phenomenally rich.

As well as railway tracks, he
bought enormous chunks of land,

which were named after him, northern and
southern radira, now Zambia and Zimbabwe.

They were staging posts in his dream

of a railway that
would start in the south

African Cape and run
nearly 7,000 miles to Cairo.

I'm on my way to catch
a train that goes along

a particularly special
section of the old

Cape Takaro route. It's a moment
I've been rather looking forward to.

An unforgettable journey
aboard a steam train

that will take me to the border
of Zambia and Zimbabwe.

How old is it, Anjis? 1924.

These days, this shining piece of British
engineering shunts tourists back and forth.

With the smell of steam,
the sound of the whistle

and the early morning
African sun glinting off the steel,

it's easy to imagine I'm back in the
glory days of this 186 ton dinosaur.

We're traveling towards
one of the most spectacular

stretches of track
anywhere in the world.

And here, there's a tangible sense
that the line is a monument to a dream.

In 1898, rails of British steel
were laid down on South African soil

and roads crazy idea
started to become a reality.

And even 500 million
litres of water per minute,

a 350 foot gorge and the crocodile filled
Zambisi river couldn't stop that dream.

After seven days, three
trains, one bus and one taxi.

I'm on my last train in Zambia
before crossing into Zimbabwe.

I'm aboard a 1920s
steam locomotive heading

towards one of the most
spectacular sites on Earth.

Victoria falls.

My goodness, that is the top of the falls.

Plunging down, it's
just, it's like a mirage.

There's so much mist and it rises
up and it forms a cloud and you can't

quite believe what you'll see.

The Victoria falls are one of the natural
wonders of the world and the bridge

is one of the wonders of
Edward Wardian engineering.

It was built in Darlington
and shipped over

piece by piece to be
constructed on this spot,

so the passengers would fuel the
spray on their faces as they crossed.

It stands 400 feet above
the Zambisi and when it

opened in 1905, it was
described as a poem in steel.

In the first train came
here, it stopped just

over 100 years ago and
it was full of dignitaries

and they got out and
they started arguing

about how high the
bridge was above the water.

And a professor
said I can sort this out.

He took out his gold
watch and he got a stone

and he stood there a long time at it.
He said, let me drop it like that,

when to look at his watch found
he had the stone in that hand.

The Zambisi forms the border between
Zambia and Zimbabwe and despite the bridge,

there's no longer a train service that
crosses it from one country into the other.

So with the train preparing to go back the
way it came, I'm entering Zimbabwe on foot.

The first thing I want to do is
get a closer look at the falls.

Although I'm not certain that
getting nearer affords a better view.

It's so wet here that
you can't see a thing.

The first tourists
stayed a safe distance

away in a grand hotel
called Mother Originally

the Victoria Falls Hotel. It hasn't
changed much since those days of colonial

gin and tonic visitors
have been enjoying

the view from its terrace
for over 100 years.

And beyond the hotel a town sprang
up called rather originally Victoria Falls.

It's a gentle sort of place
you could be forgiven

for thinking you're in a
sleepy English village

especially before the
backpackers got out of bed.

But then you turn a corner and
you're reminded that this is Africa.

And not all wildlife stays in the wild.

Elephants trampled through front
gardens, water talks snuffle in the parks

And down by the railway I find the animals
who cause mayhem throughout this town.

I'm surrounded by the birds closing in.

These guys may look cut late but they have
sharp teeth that can do serious damage.

If the boons turn nasty and decide
that they they'd like to take my knapsack.

I might have to let them have it.
Can I come through? Thank you.

Thankfully the baboons have a
whole trainload of sugar to distract them.

So before continuing
onwards I can do some

transporting in the railway
yard and one carriage

in particular catches my eye. Hello.
Hello. How are you? My name is Griff.

Oh, my name is Ruth. Is this your
house in here? Yes, yes. It's mine.

And you live in a railway
carriage? Mm-hmm.

And if here, then you can
come. Thank you, I'm come.

Ruth works as a maid for
the permanent way, Inspector.

And their homely carriage goes
wherever his work takes him.

This is the bedroom, right?
That's the bedroom.

This is the sitting room. This is your
sitting room. This is our sitting room.

Very comfortable. Thank you.

But perhaps most impressive of all.

This is our kitchen. Yes, very good
kitchen. This is a big range, isn't it?

It's good in the winter, isn't it?
Yeah, yeah, yeah.

And that gives you plenty of
hot water for bars and step washy.

Very cosy and everything is
really cleverly done. Yes, yes.

That's very cozy.

But the downside of being
unable to leave the tracks

is that you can't always
choose your neighbors.

Other baboons in nuisance here?
Oh, they are.

Oh, they are always the jump in.
They take my bread and quote.

What can you do about them?
You can see that thing.

We're listening, yeah, but we
used to put a stone here. Just do this.

But enough of this monkey
business, I've got a train to catch.

I'm going to follow this
historic line southwards

deeper into Zimbabwe, into
the final stop on my journey.

On this leg of my
African railway odyssey,

I've travelled over 600 miles through
Zambia, and I've crossed into Zimbabwe.

I'm heading to what was once
the railway headquarters of

Southern Africa.
It's also my final destination, Bulawayo.

After the tourist
friendly Victoria Falls,

this is my first glimpse
of Zimbabwe proper.

It is a stunningly
beautiful country, and like

Zambia, it isn't short
of natural resources

by coal and gold, around 12 million people
live here, mostly in the countryside.

This is Sunday morning, and we're
making our way now on the last few months,

last few stops, into Bulawayo. And because
it's a Sunday, the train is really crowded.

People go to visit
families, and we're stopping

these tiny holes in the
middle of what appears to

bush, but there are villages in
amongst the trees and the scrub.

Every stop we stop at, we
can get out, we can get out.

It's impossible not
to notice that this is a

country that has recently
fallen on very hard times.

How much would this buy me in Zimbabwe?
Nothing at all. Almost worthless.

Where even the
billionaires were poor.

This is a 50 billion dollar
reserve bank of Zimbabwe

note, and it's useless. It was
useless when it was printed.

People used to have to go to the shop
to buy a loaf of bread with two Tesco

bags full of notes
because inflation had got so

crazily controlled. I
mean, it wasn't just like

bread was getting a
little bit more expensive.

The money was being
printed in such huge

quantities, and it became
absolutely meaningless.

Zimbabwe's people have been
through some extremely tough years.

But I'm struck by the warmth and
friendliness of the people I'm meeting.

And now, I've reached the place where
Cecil Rhodes Railway arrived in 1898.

We're screeching, squealing, and
squealing our way into full of whale.

Cecil Rhodes may have built the Cape DiCiro
line to enrich the empire and himself,

but both then and now,
the line connects, all

inventories in babians
across a vast land.

The trains bring trade, and with
trade comes ideas from the wider world.

Zimbabwe's second biggest
city grew up around this railway,

and is to reflect it in the buildings, a
mix of modern Africa and colonial grandeur.

But if you really want to find out what
happens when the railway rolls into town,

there's an appropriately named al-Baa
on the corner of Robert Magarbi Way,

where the wider world and below
a whale sing in perfect harmony.

I'm here in the Cape
DiCiro bar built in 1931,

when the spirit of
optimism was still there.

With the cool crunas,
and they, if any,

constitutes the soul of
that great railway journey.

The cool crunas would admit
that the oldest swingers in bluer.

They grew up in the
townships, and were amongst

the first generation
of Zimbabweans to be

influenced by the global fashions
that arrived with the railway.

And how did you get into
singing in the first place?

My auntie went to a highlands way
and bought the rose all in Grand Art forms,

master's voice, Colombia,
and they really attached

me and then I put nearly
an interest from there.

That was your beginning of thinking.
This is the music for me.

The train from the Cape brought
with it the Chattanooga Chiu-Choo,

the records of Glenn
Miller, the new sound of jazz.

Clutching their precious American records,
the crunas drew on their own heritage.

To produce the sound of Bulawaya.

The Cape DiCiro railway transformed
the places it passed through.

But as I've discovered,
the dream of a single

railway traversing the continent
remains to this day, a dream.

At every stop, there have been
reminders of that grand ambition,

and nowhere more so than
this steam shared in Bulawaya,

only one or two of
these engines still work.

The rest are rusting away in
this locomotive's graveyard.

Decades ago, they may have steamed out of
the Cape, but they never made it to Cairo.

I've left the rails behind and
come to Matapa's National Park,

20 miles south of Bulawaya. For the
man who dominated this part of the world,

who felt he could
conquer the continent with

British steel, this was
the end of the tracks.

Here are the remains
of Cecil John Rhodes.

The great railway dreamer
died before he was 50

years older, and before he'd even seen the
completion of the Victoria Falls Bridge.

Not everyone sheds
tears for Cecil Rhodes.

For many, he was a villain who
exploited Africans for his own end.

For others, he was a visionary whose
ambition and determination transformed

this part of Africa.
By the way, he won't be forgotten.

You know, I think Cecil Rhodes
might have been rather surprised to find

that his dream of a sort
of extension of British

rail from the Cape to Cairo
never actually happened.

He might have been
even more surprised to find

that part of the journey
that I made was made

possible by a Chinese
railway, and that there

are Africans training
to be locomotive drivers

that the two countries
that he founded no longer

bear his name, but you
can still do that journey,

and I've come through
the most beautiful of

countries by the most
beautiful of transport,

if, perhaps, little decrepit
in places, the railway.

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