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Paris is a city that straddles
the spectrum of experience,
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from the finer things in life
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00:00:13,280 --> 00:00:15,200
to the cheap and cheerful.
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00:00:19,720 --> 00:00:22,400
Whether you're snacking at a bar
before the big game,
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00:00:22,400 --> 00:00:24,760
or foraging on a rooftop garden,
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00:00:24,760 --> 00:00:29,320
the one thing you can always count on
in Paris is quality.
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It's like a toy shop for a chef.
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I am Guillaume Brahimi,
I was born and raised in Paris,
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and I learnt to be a chef
in some of the greatest kitchens
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in this City of Light.
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00:00:41,400 --> 00:00:45,040
Now, after 30 years,
I've returned to explore
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each of the 20 arrondissements
of Paris, one by one,
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to discover the best cuisine
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00:00:51,000 --> 00:00:54,400
and to show you how much food
drives this city.
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Today, I will make two dishes
perfect for springtime in Paris.
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A salad with the freshest
possible garden produce
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and a beautiful Cote du Veau.
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(GYPSY JAZZ ACOUSTIC GUITAR MUSIC)
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People have occupied
the 15th arrondissement
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longer than any area of Paris.
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It was here,
in approximately 8000 BC,
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that hunter-gatherer communities
encamped
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and lived off the produce
of the land.
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Hugging the banks of the Seine,
with lush green parklands,
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the 15th evokes something
resembling the Garden of Eden.
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The residents here are still
hunting and gathering food
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in the many wonderful shops
and markets,
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and like them, I'm looking
for something good to eat.
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La Cantine du Troquet Dupleix
is a restaurant in the 15th,
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serving French cuisine
made with fresh local produce.
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Oh!
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La Cantine is run by my friend
Christian Etchebest,
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who hails from the Basque region
of France, bordering Spain.
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His cuisine is prepared simply,
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but in huge proportions,
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which is good for me,
because it's lunch time.
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Watching Christian work
is like a study in simplicity.
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He relies on the quality
of his ingredients
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to make these big dish sing.
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Good veal, good wine, good company.
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The simple ingredients
to the perfect meal.
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(GLASSES CLINK)
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Parisians have always prioritised
local and fresh produce.
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As the land occupied by
hunter-gatherers was overtaken
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by the city,
farming was pushed out of Paris.
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Today, some industrious Parisians
have created a way
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of feeding the growing population
with locally grown ingredients.
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The 15th arrondissement
is home to Nature Urbaine,
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the biggest rooftop farm in Europe.
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Encompassing the rooftop
of an exhibition hall in the 15th,
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it opened during the pandemic,
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to supply locals a daily haul
of seasonal specialities.
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I'm here to meet Phenicia Oheix,
a plant scientist,
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and manager of Nature Urbaine,
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to see what's growing.
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The farm uses aeroponics,
a soil-free gardening that maximises
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the amount of produce,
while minimising irrigation.
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It's just mind-blowing to know
we can grow anything
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in a roof in Paris.
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It is about 1,400 metres square,
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- so it's enormous for a roof.
- Whoa.
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That's a big, farm that's a big farm.
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Yeah, a huge one,
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and, uh, so we are on the Pavillon 6,
in the Paris Expo.
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Yep.
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And they decided to renovate
the building,
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and with this renovation,
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they decided to create a project
on the roof
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with a restaurant and with a farm.
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How much strawberry
are we going to make here?
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Yeah, we produce a lot,
also because of the,
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the density with the vertical system
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and on the farm, you have
12,000 strawberry plants.
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Yes.
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And at the end of the season,
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we can produce ten tonnes
of fruits and vegetables.
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Mm. That's a lot of strawberry tart,
let me tell you.
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You think it's a future of farming?
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And tell me, I heard you're having
a few problems with the pigeons?
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Yeah, we have problems!
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The Parisian pigeons are very well
fed in the 15th arrondissement,
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because they come here,
they've got an abundance
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of raspberry and strawberry,
that can cause quite a headache.
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- Yes.
- Yes.
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Just as well fed as the pigeons
are the residents of the 15th.
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Marie Bulle is a local who makes
good use of Nature Urbaine.
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Small aquaponic plots
are offered to nearby residents
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who want their own rooftop garden.
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So I'm going to use some of this mint
to make my salad.
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So I've got some mint,
it's going to be very minty.
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(MARIE LAUGHS)
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There is nothing more exciting
for a chef than ingredients
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picked straight from the garden.
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Next, I will be using the
fresh produce of Nature Urbaine
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to make a salad
that is truly delicious.
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I am so happy today.
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This is a perfect spring day
in Paris,
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and I've got the best lettuce
and herbs,
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and I'm going to make a very simple
herb and green salad,
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olive oil, vinegar, that's the way
I want to eat it today.
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So I've got my bowl,
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I picked my salad this morning,
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just simple, with some wild spinach,
as well, very simple.
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I love this wild spinach,
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and I'm going to show you my secret.
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Please, never use
a knife with your herbs.
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You know when you see a chef
fighting with a knife
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with the green herbs on the board?
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The board is green,
the flavour is on the board,
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there is nothing left in your salad.
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All you need is a pair of scissors,
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and just go like that.
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And I promise you, from the moment
you eat a salad and herbs like that,
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you will never do it any other way.
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Enough chive, Guillaume.
I'm getting a bit too excited.
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And I'm going to do the same
with my parsley,
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and it's all about
the flavour of the herbs.
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Just like that.
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Perfect.
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And I've got some basil,
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because I love basil in spring
in Paris.
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Pourquoi pas?
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And again,
I'm not chopping anything here,
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I've got all my basil.
I'm just going to cut it in half.
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Just like that.
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And of course I've got my mint,
from Marie's, who's got a garden here
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and she said to me,
"You must use my mint,"
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and I'm going to use it.
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Just simple, like that.
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In the pot.
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Ah!
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That's exactly why I cut my herbs
with my scissors.
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It's an abundance of perfume,
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the chive, the basil,
the mint and the wild spinach.
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I love it.
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So now,
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a nice extra virgin olive oil.
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Look at the colour
of this olive oil.
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Beautiful.
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Little touch of vinegar,
not too much.
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And of course a touch of pepper.
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Little bit of fleur de sel - salt.
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Voila. Your salad is ready.
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I'm just going to toss it
very delicately.
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What I want to do, I want to paint
each leaf with the olive oil.
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Beautiful.
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And this is it, this is super simple,
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but also super delicious.
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This is the way my grandmother
used to make the salad,
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just fresh herbs,
fresh lettuce from the garden,
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a good extra virgin olive oil,
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good red wine vinegar,
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and I promise you something,
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you're going to love it,
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and merci to the 15th arrondissement.
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How lucky are the Parisians?
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Bon appetit.
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From the natural bounties
of the 15th,
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I am exploring
the man-made attractions
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of the 16th arrondissement.
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To any Parisian,
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the 16th means high society.
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It's where the most affluent people
do life and leisure.
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So what brings me here today?
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Sport.
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The largest of the arrondissements,
by area,
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the 16th is where you will find
Roland Garros,
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the Parc des Princes
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and Jean-Bouin Stadium,
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the arenas of tennis,
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soccer and rugby.
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I'm a rugby tragic.
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If I never became a chef,
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I wanted to be
a professional rugby player.
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I'm in the 16th to meet with a friend
living that dream.
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Australian rugby player,
Kurtley Beale,
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a man with over 90 caps
for the Wallabies.
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Kurtley now plays for Racing 92,
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the rugby club of Paris.
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We are meeting at Les 2 Stades,
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a lively sports bar
opposite the rugby stadium.
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This is a perfect place for
a pre-match drink and a bite to eat
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with the fans who are going to watch
Paris play Pau.
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We love our club rugby in Sydney,
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you know, you've got six, seven
greats playing in the same ground,
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lot of people here,
but here in Paris, it's the same.
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- Yeah, exactly.
- People having beers, chips, kids.
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Yeah, it's great. Great turnout.
We are in the 16th arrondissement...
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Yeah.
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and I would call this
the sporting hub of Paris.
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- Yeah, yeah.
- There's so many different sports.
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You've got the football, the rugby,
you've got Roland Garros
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across the road...
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Tennis, yeah, yeah, yeah.
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..and it's just,
there's always a really good vibe,
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a really good energy
about this place.
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Yeah. Normally the games are played
on Saturday,
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and the great thing, there is about
six games live on television,
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it's a big deal. Rugby is big.
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- Rugby's a big deal here.
- Big.
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And rugby in France, and in Paris,
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Paris is a very much soccer,
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but now the rugby is there,
we've got two great teams,
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one better than the other,
obviously the Racing.
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- Racing.
- Where you train.
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Don't say that too loud here!
(LAUGHS)
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Parisians really love rugby,
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but it must be combined
with their first love -
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food.
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In Australia, you have a meat pie,
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and meat pie and meat pie.
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Yes.
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Here, I've got sausages, sandwiches,
you've got a ham and cheese...
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Ham and cheese.
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..we've got some chips, we've got
a queue here of people, I mean,
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this is really my sort of footy food,
you know?
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Yes, absolutely. It's a soul food.
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Might have to do a couple of laps
of the field after that!
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Yeah, absolutely! Yeah!
(CHUCKLES)
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I'll tell you one thing,
the baguettes are always fresh.
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- Yeah.
- Always fresh.
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You can't go wrong with buying
a baguette from the boulangerie,
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it's always very nice to eat.
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I love these sausages.
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It's not the typical, uh,
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burnt sausages you would have
at Randwick. This is merguez.
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So the merguez come from North Africa
or Spain.
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A lot of spice,
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lot of cumin
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and it's impossible to burn.
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- OK. Wow.
- Yeah.
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On a perfect spring day, like today,
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it's easy to see why Kurtley is
anchoring his life here in Paris.
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Today, they will get, probably,
20,000 people in here.
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I think so, yep.
236
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You guys tonight will get more
than that. It's just amazing.
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Yeah, equal, yeah, 20,000 people,
and I think the best thing is
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it's a great day here in Paris,
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always on a sunny day
you're gonna get people out mingling,
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enjoying some nice food and wine.
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That's a great thing, you know,
to the market in the morning,
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go watch a footy game at 3pm,
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go home, cook what you got
from the market,
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or go to so many great restaurants.
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- Absolutely.
- It's a pretty good city, huh?
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- It's a good way of life.
- Yeah.
247
00:16:03,640 --> 00:16:04,800
That's for sure.
248
00:16:04,800 --> 00:16:06,120
I know you've got a busy day today,
249
00:16:06,120 --> 00:16:08,200
but next week, can you come over?
250
00:16:08,200 --> 00:16:10,520
I'd love to cook you a little bit of
a Cote du Veau.
251
00:16:10,520 --> 00:16:13,880
So rack of veal with some
little Parisian potatoes.
252
00:16:13,880 --> 00:16:15,160
It'll be delicious. You in?
253
00:16:15,160 --> 00:16:17,080
I'd love to, mate.
254
00:16:17,080 --> 00:16:18,680
- Fantastic.
- Let's do it.
255
00:16:18,680 --> 00:16:21,080
- I'll see you then, buddy.
- See you then. Cheers.
256
00:16:21,080 --> 00:16:23,400
I have a plan and a dinner guest,
257
00:16:23,400 --> 00:16:26,080
but I need some ingredients.
258
00:16:26,080 --> 00:16:29,600
Luckily, I know where to find
the best butcher in the 16th,
259
00:16:29,600 --> 00:16:33,000
before heading home to cook
Kurtley my Cote du Veau.
260
00:16:40,280 --> 00:16:43,680
The 16th arrondissement
is a playground for those
261
00:16:43,680 --> 00:16:45,960
with a taste for the finer things.
262
00:16:45,960 --> 00:16:49,800
It's like a living gallery
of up-market shops
263
00:16:49,800 --> 00:16:52,120
and first-rate providores.
264
00:16:52,120 --> 00:16:56,080
On the outskirts of the 16th
is Desnoyer & Co,
265
00:16:56,080 --> 00:16:59,120
a shop opened by one of the world's
most famous butchers,
266
00:16:59,120 --> 00:17:00,640
Hugo Desnoyer.
267
00:17:03,640 --> 00:17:07,960
Hugo provides meat
to the top restaurants in Paris,
268
00:17:07,960 --> 00:17:11,280
so I know I'm in the right place
to find the perfect cut of veal
269
00:17:11,280 --> 00:17:13,680
to serve Kurtley for dinner.
270
00:17:47,160 --> 00:17:49,240
This is very good.
271
00:17:49,240 --> 00:17:52,480
Everything here
is the best of France.
272
00:17:52,480 --> 00:17:55,560
In this butchery,
in the 16th arrondissement,
273
00:17:55,560 --> 00:17:58,280
it's like a toy shop for a chef.
274
00:18:11,000 --> 00:18:14,640
So, I'm going to have a steak tartare
on the terrace. How good is that?
275
00:18:16,040 --> 00:18:18,680
This is not a regular butcher.
276
00:18:18,680 --> 00:18:21,480
Desnoyer is also a table d'hote,
277
00:18:21,480 --> 00:18:25,680
a small restaurant,
offering a fixed price meal.
278
00:18:25,680 --> 00:18:30,080
Severine, the host, tells me
about the history of the shop
279
00:18:30,080 --> 00:18:31,680
while I enjoy my steak tartare.
280
00:19:42,440 --> 00:19:44,480
With the taste of tartare on my lips,
281
00:19:44,480 --> 00:19:46,600
and the veal in my hands,
282
00:19:46,600 --> 00:19:49,480
it's time for me to get cooking.
283
00:19:49,480 --> 00:19:50,480
I am so excited.
284
00:19:50,480 --> 00:19:54,520
I'm cooking for my friend,
the rugby player, Kurtley Beale.
285
00:19:54,520 --> 00:19:55,640
He's coming over.
286
00:19:55,640 --> 00:19:58,720
I'm going to cook
the beautiful spring veal.
287
00:19:58,720 --> 00:20:00,920
I've made some pommes Parisienne,
288
00:20:00,920 --> 00:20:03,880
some speck, some garlic, some peas.
289
00:20:03,880 --> 00:20:05,200
A very simple dish,
290
00:20:05,200 --> 00:20:07,240
but with the best ingredients
291
00:20:07,240 --> 00:20:09,920
you could only find
in the 16th arrondissement.
292
00:20:09,920 --> 00:20:13,320
So, I've got my pan ready.
Little bit of butter.
293
00:20:13,320 --> 00:20:15,680
Kurtley will have to do
a couple more laps of the field.
294
00:20:15,680 --> 00:20:17,920
The beautiful veal cutlet.
Look at that.
295
00:20:20,600 --> 00:20:23,560
Here we go. So I've got my veal,
like that,
296
00:20:23,560 --> 00:20:24,840
just gently,
297
00:20:24,840 --> 00:20:28,160
I'm going to put garlic and thyme.
298
00:20:28,160 --> 00:20:30,520
That's it. I'm going to
let it be like that.
299
00:20:30,520 --> 00:20:32,160
My heat is in low,
300
00:20:32,160 --> 00:20:35,720
and we're just going to get
the veal to get nice and crispy
301
00:20:35,720 --> 00:20:37,560
and we're going to serve it pink.
302
00:20:37,560 --> 00:20:38,920
I've got my veal.
303
00:20:38,920 --> 00:20:41,800
I'm going to blanche
my pommes Parisienne.
304
00:20:41,800 --> 00:20:46,640
To blanch potato, cold water,
bring to the boil, drain.
305
00:20:46,640 --> 00:20:49,840
So I'm just going to put my carrots,
306
00:20:49,840 --> 00:20:51,400
water boiling my carrots,
307
00:20:51,400 --> 00:20:53,400
I want them to be cooked al dente,
308
00:20:53,400 --> 00:20:56,160
I want a little bit of resistance
with my knife.
309
00:20:56,160 --> 00:20:59,040
I'm going to put some tomatoes
with my veal.
310
00:21:00,480 --> 00:21:01,600
One for Kurtley,
311
00:21:01,600 --> 00:21:02,960
one for me.
312
00:21:02,960 --> 00:21:04,400
(PAN SIZZLES)
313
00:21:04,400 --> 00:21:05,920
My veal is nearly ready.
314
00:21:05,920 --> 00:21:07,680
I want my veal cutlet to rest,
315
00:21:07,680 --> 00:21:09,320
so I'm going to take it off.
316
00:21:09,320 --> 00:21:11,880
Look at that. Beautiful.
317
00:21:13,440 --> 00:21:16,440
And I'm just going to let it rest
for a good 10 minutes,
318
00:21:16,440 --> 00:21:19,120
and during this time,
I will finish my garnish.
319
00:21:19,120 --> 00:21:21,200
My beautiful tomatoes.
320
00:21:24,120 --> 00:21:27,720
Now I'm going to drain
my pommes Parisienne.
321
00:21:27,720 --> 00:21:30,040
So, they've just been blanched.
322
00:21:30,040 --> 00:21:31,120
Just like that.
323
00:21:31,120 --> 00:21:33,640
I'm going to drain them nice and dry.
324
00:21:33,640 --> 00:21:35,320
I'm going to put them in my pan.
325
00:21:35,320 --> 00:21:36,320
(PAN SIZZLES)
326
00:21:37,320 --> 00:21:41,120
Now what I want
is colour my potatoes.
327
00:21:42,120 --> 00:21:43,440
Little bit of butter.
328
00:21:46,720 --> 00:21:48,800
That's it.
329
00:21:48,800 --> 00:21:51,080
So, you know what?
I'm going to add to it,
330
00:21:51,080 --> 00:21:53,480
because I just want more and more.
331
00:21:53,480 --> 00:21:55,720
I think speck, the French bacon,
332
00:21:55,720 --> 00:21:58,400
would go perfectly
with my veal cutlet,
333
00:21:58,400 --> 00:22:00,240
and what I will do to my potato
334
00:22:00,240 --> 00:22:03,160
is I will infuse my potato
with a smoky flavour.
335
00:22:05,240 --> 00:22:07,080
Let's check my carrots.
336
00:22:07,080 --> 00:22:08,600
They should be ready now.
337
00:22:08,600 --> 00:22:10,400
Yeah. Perfect.
338
00:22:10,400 --> 00:22:14,240
Alright. All at once.
Well done, Guillaume.
339
00:22:14,240 --> 00:22:18,080
I'm leaving my water, because I'm
going to use this water for my peas.
340
00:22:18,080 --> 00:22:21,880
OK, I'm just going to cut my carrots
in quarters
341
00:22:21,880 --> 00:22:25,440
and I'm going to put them
with my potato and speck.
342
00:22:25,440 --> 00:22:28,200
Ah, cooking is so simple
when you've got great ingredients.
343
00:22:31,360 --> 00:22:34,040
I've got my peas, my boiling water,
344
00:22:34,040 --> 00:22:36,160
and we let them cook.
345
00:22:36,160 --> 00:22:39,680
In the meantime,
I'm going to take my veal cutlet,
346
00:22:39,680 --> 00:22:42,200
so I'm doing a little nest
for my veal,
347
00:22:42,200 --> 00:22:43,520
my tomatoes.
348
00:22:43,520 --> 00:22:44,960
(PAN SIZZLES)
349
00:22:44,960 --> 00:22:47,000
Like a big family.
350
00:22:47,000 --> 00:22:48,240
Beautiful. Just like that.
351
00:22:50,240 --> 00:22:51,320
And let it roast.
352
00:22:53,360 --> 00:22:57,920
I roast some garlic early on today,
very simple, aluminium foil,
353
00:22:57,920 --> 00:23:01,480
a whole garlic, and look what
I'm going to do with it.
354
00:23:01,480 --> 00:23:04,400
I'm going to, yeah, do you see that?
355
00:23:04,400 --> 00:23:07,880
That's my garlic, who's been roasted,
who's going to my veal.
356
00:23:07,880 --> 00:23:09,200
Oh, yeah.
357
00:23:09,200 --> 00:23:10,480
Just like that.
358
00:23:12,320 --> 00:23:13,760
Beautiful.
359
00:23:13,760 --> 00:23:15,160
Let's toss everything.
360
00:23:16,480 --> 00:23:18,680
It's starting to look good, ah?
Yeah!
361
00:23:18,680 --> 00:23:21,000
Let's get the peas out of the water.
362
00:23:21,000 --> 00:23:23,400
Yum. Perfectly cooked.
363
00:23:23,400 --> 00:23:24,880
Mmm.
364
00:23:24,880 --> 00:23:27,960
I'm going to add my peas.
365
00:23:27,960 --> 00:23:30,080
Look how green they are.
366
00:23:30,080 --> 00:23:31,800
All I need now is some herbs.
367
00:23:33,040 --> 00:23:36,120
Little bit of chives,
little bit of parsley.
368
00:23:36,120 --> 00:23:38,040
Joie de vivre.
369
00:23:38,040 --> 00:23:40,240
Look at that.
Isn't that beautiful?
370
00:23:40,240 --> 00:23:41,280
So simple.
371
00:23:44,880 --> 00:23:49,960
The story of the 16th brings
together two of my favourite things,
372
00:23:49,960 --> 00:23:52,200
sport and great food,
373
00:23:52,200 --> 00:23:56,880
and it is a pleasure to share them
with my friend, Kurtley.
374
00:23:56,880 --> 00:23:59,040
There's everything
I love in this plate.
375
00:23:59,040 --> 00:24:02,760
Veal, potatoes, speck,
garlic and tomatoes.
376
00:24:02,760 --> 00:24:04,560
Wow.
377
00:24:04,560 --> 00:24:05,560
Oh, wow.
378
00:24:05,560 --> 00:24:07,680
It's amazing. There's like
an explosion in my mouth.
379
00:24:07,680 --> 00:24:09,680
Yeah, I'm happy. I'm happy.
380
00:24:09,680 --> 00:24:10,880
Thank you, thank you.
381
00:24:10,880 --> 00:24:13,120
Tell me, the boys you play with,
382
00:24:13,120 --> 00:24:14,600
do they love their food as well?
383
00:24:14,600 --> 00:24:17,720
Yeah. As a rugby man you, it's
very important to eat clean meals,
384
00:24:17,720 --> 00:24:21,760
and the chefs at Racing
do a fantastic job in,
385
00:24:21,760 --> 00:24:23,080
you know, supplying that.
386
00:24:23,080 --> 00:24:25,440
Quality produce. Quality produce.
Fresh produce.
387
00:24:25,440 --> 00:24:28,080
Quality. Yep. And you can't
go wrong here in Paris.
388
00:24:28,080 --> 00:24:30,280
And the good produce
is good for you.
389
00:24:30,280 --> 00:24:31,760
Very good for you.
390
00:24:31,760 --> 00:24:34,400
Just go easy on the fromage
and the cheese and the bread!
391
00:24:34,400 --> 00:24:35,760
Yeah!
392
00:24:35,760 --> 00:24:37,680
High five!
393
00:24:37,680 --> 00:24:39,960
Guillaume, mate, thank
you very much for having me.
394
00:24:39,960 --> 00:24:41,880
This food is amazing.
395
00:24:41,880 --> 00:24:45,080
Kurtley, can't wait to watch you play
with the Wallaby jumper again.
396
00:24:45,080 --> 00:24:46,680
It's awesome to have you here.
397
00:24:52,080 --> 00:24:54,120
Next time in Guillaume's Paris,
398
00:24:54,120 --> 00:24:59,360
join me as I travel into the world
of artists and artisans.
399
00:24:59,360 --> 00:25:01,040
And I find inspiration
400
00:25:01,040 --> 00:25:04,240
in the windmills and wineries
of Montmartre Village.
401
00:25:09,040 --> 00:25:13,520
And we will visit a secret
mushroom farm, deep under the city.
402
00:25:13,520 --> 00:25:15,560
What's going on?! This is amazing!
403
00:25:17,160 --> 00:25:20,360
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31203
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