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Paris.
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00:00:08,360 --> 00:00:12,560
For many, it is the cultural capital
of the world.
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00:00:12,560 --> 00:00:15,520
This city gave birth
to art movements,
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00:00:15,520 --> 00:00:17,920
literary masterpieces,
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00:00:17,920 --> 00:00:20,960
and, most significantly,
bistro culture.
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00:00:25,640 --> 00:00:29,920
But the food and flavours of Paris
are always evolving.
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00:00:35,520 --> 00:00:39,200
I am Guillaume Brahimi,
I was born and raised in Paris,
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00:00:39,200 --> 00:00:42,360
and I learnt to be a chef
in some of the greatest kitchens
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00:00:42,360 --> 00:00:44,200
in this City of Light.
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00:00:44,200 --> 00:00:46,240
Now, after 30 years,
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I've returned to explore each of
the 20 arrondissements of Paris,
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00:00:50,840 --> 00:00:53,880
one by one,
to discover the best cuisine,
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00:00:53,880 --> 00:00:58,120
and to show you
how much food drives this city.
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00:00:58,120 --> 00:01:01,000
Today, one of the first cafes
in Paris
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00:01:01,000 --> 00:01:04,080
inspires a sole meuniere dish,
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00:01:04,080 --> 00:01:07,200
and I make a spicy king prawn ravioli
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00:01:07,200 --> 00:01:09,960
for legendary chef, Ken Hom.
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00:01:21,880 --> 00:01:24,320
A mix of old and new,
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00:01:24,320 --> 00:01:28,000
the 13th arrondissement
is full of surprises.
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00:01:29,080 --> 00:01:33,640
This was once an industrial suburb
on the Left Bank of the Seine.
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It was the heart of
the Paris textile industry.
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00:01:38,080 --> 00:01:42,520
Today, the skyline is shaped by
modern apartment blocks,
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which are used as giant canvases
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for local artists
to paint colourful murals.
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It has become known as
the Quartier Asiatique,
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as it is the biggest cultural centre
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for the Asian community in Paris.
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This makes it
the arrondissement to visit
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if you want authentic,
delicious Asian cuisine.
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00:02:08,400 --> 00:02:12,000
The streets are brimming with
markets and eateries,
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serving Chinese
and south-east Asian delights.
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Joining me on my exploration
of the 13th
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is the legendary Ken Hom,
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00:02:22,240 --> 00:02:27,240
a Chinese-American chef
who now calls Paris home.
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00:02:27,240 --> 00:02:30,760
Ken, thank you so much
for being with me
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in the 13th arrondissement of Paris.
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I am blown away with the quality
of the Asian produce
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I saw at the market.
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I don't think it...
Was it like that always in Paris?
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00:02:43,640 --> 00:02:45,880
No. I remember,
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00:02:45,880 --> 00:02:49,640
when I bought my first flat
in Paris in '86.
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'86, yeah.
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It was in the 9th,
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and you would have to come
to this area...
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- Yeah.
- ..if you want anything Asian.
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Which is really far away,
I mean, just...
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00:03:01,080 --> 00:03:04,080
- From the 13th to the 9th, yeah.
- Yeah, really far.
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00:03:04,080 --> 00:03:08,920
Did you know that Paris
has the biggest Chinese population
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in Europe?
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00:03:10,160 --> 00:03:12,080
- More than the UK.
- No I didn't know that.
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00:03:12,080 --> 00:03:14,800
Which, this surprised me, too.
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But what I find also amazing is,
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00:03:17,640 --> 00:03:22,200
the cuisine, like, the cuisine
of the 13th, it's unbelievable.
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You can eat the best
Vietnamese sandwich,
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00:03:25,880 --> 00:03:27,440
the best delicatessens,
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00:03:27,440 --> 00:03:31,080
like, we're talking about the
serious cooking, the serious shops.
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But you know why? It has to be good,
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because the people
who come and shop here...
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They know, they know.
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..they demand high quality,
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because you cannot survive
if you're not good.
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- Everywhere.
- Yeah.
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GUILLAUME: The Vietnam War
brought over many refugees
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from the former French colonies
of Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam,
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00:03:52,720 --> 00:03:57,160
some of whom set up shops
and eateries in the 13th.
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00:03:57,160 --> 00:04:00,840
Ken and I stopped for lunch
at a delightful little bakery
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on Avenue d'Ivry,
called Patisserie de Saison.
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Tanoy, the owner of the bakery,
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offers some of her sweet
and savoury specialties,
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which truly reflect the combination
of French technique
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with Asian flavours.
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00:05:12,520 --> 00:05:14,440
When the French colonised Vietnam,
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they influenced the local cuisine
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00:05:16,520 --> 00:05:21,600
by introducing European ingredients
and cooking techniques.
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00:05:21,600 --> 00:05:24,640
The most well-known example
is a French baguette,
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which became the base
of the banh mi sandwich,
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found in Vietnamese bakeries
across the world,
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including Australia,
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and here in Paris.
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Delicious.
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I need to know what this cake is.
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And it's not to everybody's taste!
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- Good.
- Ah, oui?
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I like it.
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00:07:13,480 --> 00:07:16,520
"It's inedible,
it's an horrible food,"
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00:07:16,520 --> 00:07:18,440
I was little bit worried,
I have to say.
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I said, that's a very interesting
marketing campaign.
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- But it's delicious.
- And very expensive.
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- I love it.
- Pleasure.
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My tastebuds are alive after that.
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00:07:38,680 --> 00:07:40,880
I really enjoyed my morning with Ken,
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and I don't want it to end,
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so I invite him for dinner,
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and I'm challenging myself
to create a dish
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with a fusion of French and Asian
influences.
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00:07:58,960 --> 00:08:04,960
Today, I'm making ravioli of prawn
with a lemongrass vinegarette.
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00:08:04,960 --> 00:08:09,720
It is, for me, a dish to really
showcase the 13th arrondissement,
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the Asian influence
of the 13th arrondissement,
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00:08:13,080 --> 00:08:16,400
right in the middle of Paris,
with all my French technique.
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And what I do is I use this wonton,
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so this beautiful wonton paper,
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who are perfect to make a ravioli.
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To fill my wonton, I use prawn.
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I love prawn, and here in Paris,
there's an abundance of prawns,
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coming from the coast of Brittany.
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And, of course, the flavour
I'm going to use.
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I made a lemongrass oil.
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So all I did is put my lemongrass
into olive oil,
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bring it to the boil,
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and let it rest for 24 hours.
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That gives you a beautiful olive oil,
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infused with lemongrass.
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That's going to be the cornerstone
of my vinaigrette.
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Very simple, first, we're going to
put little bit of lemongrass,
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my oil, into the pan.
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I'm going to put my shallots in it.
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And now I'm going to add
my beautiful tomatoes.
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I'm going to add them to my shallots.
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Little bit of chilli.
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That's it.
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00:09:14,800 --> 00:09:17,920
And now I'm going to make
my ravioli. Very simple.
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I love using this wonton.
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Look how fine they are.
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They're just perfect to make
a very simple ravioli.
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So we're going to make
three per person.
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I think that will be a nice entree.
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I'm using the eggwhite as my glue.
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You're brushing the four corners
of your wonton.
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Just like that, Guillaume.
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And now I'm going to put my chopped
prawn that I chopped this morning,
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about one prawn per wonton.
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Here we go.
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Gently with your finger.
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So delicate, so beautiful,
and look what I'm doing now.
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Just gently make sure there is no air
left between my prawn
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and my wonton.
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And now I'm going to use
this one to cut it.
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Allez. We'll do all of them.
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00:10:11,760 --> 00:10:13,600
Look at that, eh?
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00:10:13,600 --> 00:10:14,800
Not bad.
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Ready to cook.
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Let's try my dressing.
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I am so excited about trying
one of these tomatoes,
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who's been infused
with my lemongrass.
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Mmm.
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An explosion of flavour.
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The right amount of chilli,
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the right amount of lemongrass,
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it's just perfect.
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What I'm going to do now,
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a good handful of cucumber.
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Look at that, look at this colour.
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My dressing is ready.
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I'm going to put one
of my ravioli portions,
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so three pieces,
two minutes in boiling water,
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that will give you ravioli
perfectly cooked.
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Beautiful, and what I love
with the wonton is,
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before it's cooked, when it's raw,
you don't see anything.
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But after two minutes
in the boiling water,
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look at the colour of your prawn,
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the nice orange of it.
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Beautiful.
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I've got my vinegarette,
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my dressing, beautiful.
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All I'm going to do now,
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little bit of parsley,
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a pinch of chive...
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..some coriander, but what I want to
do is I want to put a little bit
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of lime juice into my dressing.
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Touch of salt.
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We're nearly there.
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I'm going to put my very delicate
prawn ravioli into my bowl,
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and now I'm going to put an abundance
of my lemongrass vinaigrette.
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Look at the colour.
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So, my mint.
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I just want to now shave some lime.
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The freshness of it.
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A little bit of drizzle
of Piment d'Espelette.
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This prawn wonton ravioli
is a perfect fusion
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between the Chinatown of
the 13th arrondissement in Paris
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and my French classical training.
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And I can't wait to share it
with my friend Ken Hom,
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who is visiting me.
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- Ravioli du prawn.
- Oh, wow.
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Looks fantastic.
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- Oui, bien.
- Wow.
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KEN: Mmm.
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This is what I love
about your generation,
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and you combine the best
of the two worlds.
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I mean, two of the best cuisines
in the world
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are the French and Chinese,
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and when you combine that...
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Mmm.
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The texture of the cucumber,
which is great,
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which is, you got it right,
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and also the, the tartness
of the lemongrass.
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Yeah. Such a beautiful flavour.
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- Perfect with seafood.
- Yeah.
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00:12:58,080 --> 00:12:59,920
Actually, this is a diet dish,
200
00:12:59,920 --> 00:13:03,120
because you're not going to get fat
eating this.
201
00:13:03,120 --> 00:13:06,560
Well, you know, we in Paris,
this is a marathon eating in Paris,
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we're not doing a sprint,
we have to pace ourself.
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(CHUCKLES)
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- Cheers.
- Cheers, mon ami.
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00:13:12,080 --> 00:13:13,280
Yep.
206
00:13:15,400 --> 00:13:19,720
While the 13th absorbed influences
from the outside,
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00:13:19,720 --> 00:13:24,200
the 14th arrondissement exported
its influence to the world.
208
00:13:24,200 --> 00:13:28,520
It is the birthplace of a keystone
in Parisian life -
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bistro culture.
210
00:13:30,520 --> 00:13:33,640
The 14th is one of the largest
arrondissements,
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00:13:33,640 --> 00:13:38,080
and, in the 1920s,
was a cheap place to live.
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00:13:38,080 --> 00:13:42,000
The Bohemian community of Paris
migrated to the 14th,
213
00:13:42,000 --> 00:13:44,400
because of the lower cost of living.
214
00:13:44,400 --> 00:13:49,160
Artists like Picasso and Modigliani
both called the area home.
215
00:13:49,160 --> 00:13:53,840
But the cliche of the starving artist
they were not.
216
00:13:53,840 --> 00:13:56,840
The 14th was teaming with bistros,
217
00:13:56,840 --> 00:14:00,360
serving delicious meals at all hours.
218
00:14:00,360 --> 00:14:03,200
At the centre
of this great bistro culture
219
00:14:03,200 --> 00:14:05,080
was Boulevard du Montparnasse,
220
00:14:05,080 --> 00:14:10,360
where so many of these infamous
bistros are still serving customers.
221
00:14:10,360 --> 00:14:13,240
Today, I'm dining at Le Dome Cafe,
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00:14:13,240 --> 00:14:17,800
founded as the first cafe
in Montparnasse in 1898.
223
00:14:19,080 --> 00:14:23,600
Today, it is one of the best
seafood brasseries in Paris.
224
00:14:23,600 --> 00:14:26,800
To better sample the menu
and history of Le Dome,
225
00:14:26,800 --> 00:14:29,200
I am joined by Thomas Dufresne,
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00:14:29,200 --> 00:14:31,720
a local painter and historian,
227
00:14:31,720 --> 00:14:35,720
who knows this bistro and district
very well.
228
00:14:35,720 --> 00:14:41,200
His father and grandfather were
both artists, living in the 14th,
229
00:14:41,200 --> 00:14:45,320
and Le Dome cafe became
part of their daily routine.
230
00:16:28,320 --> 00:16:30,600
The artists may no longer be here,
231
00:16:30,600 --> 00:16:35,720
but the seafood plates served
at Le Dome are like works of art.
232
00:16:35,720 --> 00:16:39,280
The chef's masterpiece
is a French classic,
233
00:16:39,280 --> 00:16:40,880
the sole meuniere,
234
00:16:40,880 --> 00:16:45,160
which is prepared
and presented with great respect.
235
00:16:45,160 --> 00:16:48,520
This is a dish I want to make
in my kitchen today,
236
00:16:48,520 --> 00:16:53,080
and I know a wonderful street
in the 14th to buy the perfect sole.
237
00:17:02,520 --> 00:17:07,320
The food in the 14th arrondissement
used to attract the artists.
238
00:17:07,320 --> 00:17:09,560
Today, I've come to Rue Daguerre,
239
00:17:09,560 --> 00:17:11,280
a lively market street,
240
00:17:11,280 --> 00:17:15,200
where French produce is painted
in a very good light.
241
00:17:15,200 --> 00:17:19,880
The Poissonnerie Daguerre Maree
is a proud stall for French fish
242
00:17:19,880 --> 00:17:21,320
of all kinds.
243
00:17:21,320 --> 00:17:23,080
I'm here looking for sole,
244
00:17:23,080 --> 00:17:26,040
a fish similar to flounder
in Australia.
245
00:17:46,560 --> 00:17:47,720
So, my friend...
246
00:18:16,240 --> 00:18:18,080
Quite a thick fillet.
I'm very happy with that.
247
00:18:27,520 --> 00:18:29,000
He's going to get them ready.
248
00:18:56,040 --> 00:18:58,480
It is so easy.
I'm going to try to do one.
249
00:18:59,520 --> 00:19:00,520
Watch it.
250
00:19:25,920 --> 00:19:27,920
Et voila. I've done my sole.
I'm ready.
251
00:19:27,920 --> 00:19:29,040
Let's go for lunch now.
252
00:19:29,040 --> 00:19:30,840
Huh?
Merci beaucoup, Henri.
253
00:19:30,840 --> 00:19:31,960
(LAUGHTER)
254
00:19:31,960 --> 00:19:34,480
With my sole prepared
and ready to cook,
255
00:19:34,480 --> 00:19:38,120
I leave the 14th
with the inspiration and ingredients
256
00:19:38,120 --> 00:19:40,520
to cook my own take on sole meuniere.
257
00:19:45,000 --> 00:19:46,680
Meuniere. What is meuniere?
258
00:19:46,680 --> 00:19:48,440
Well, meuniere is very simple.
259
00:19:48,440 --> 00:19:50,240
It is the fish,
260
00:19:50,240 --> 00:19:52,360
flour all around it,
261
00:19:52,360 --> 00:19:54,400
in the pan, with some butter.
262
00:19:54,400 --> 00:19:57,080
There is nothing more simple
than the sole meuniere.
263
00:19:57,080 --> 00:20:00,360
OK, so I've got my sole, very simple,
264
00:20:00,360 --> 00:20:03,720
I've got my little potatoes here,
I already put them in water.
265
00:20:03,720 --> 00:20:05,920
I'm just going to bring them
to the boil.
266
00:20:05,920 --> 00:20:07,320
I've got salt in it.
267
00:20:07,320 --> 00:20:09,720
OK? So I'm going to put that here.
268
00:20:09,720 --> 00:20:12,200
So I've got my sole,
269
00:20:12,200 --> 00:20:13,680
my flour.
270
00:20:13,680 --> 00:20:14,880
Et allez, Guillaume.
271
00:20:19,160 --> 00:20:20,880
Why am I using flour?
272
00:20:20,880 --> 00:20:25,240
Well, the flour will give you
a nice crispiness of the fish,
273
00:20:25,240 --> 00:20:26,760
and I don't want too much flour, eh,
274
00:20:26,760 --> 00:20:30,600
so don't be shy to give a little bit
of a "fesser" to your fish,
275
00:20:30,600 --> 00:20:32,320
if you know what I mean.
276
00:20:32,320 --> 00:20:33,840
There we go.
277
00:20:33,840 --> 00:20:37,680
There is not such a thing
as no butter in a sole meuniere.
278
00:20:37,680 --> 00:20:39,000
We all agree?
279
00:20:39,000 --> 00:20:41,000
Let's do it.
280
00:20:41,000 --> 00:20:42,200
OK. Voila.
281
00:20:45,640 --> 00:20:47,880
And I'm going to put my sole.
282
00:20:48,960 --> 00:20:51,360
(PAN SIZZLES)
283
00:20:51,360 --> 00:20:52,800
Can you hear the noise?
284
00:20:52,800 --> 00:20:55,200
The butter is talking to you.
285
00:20:55,200 --> 00:20:58,400
Actually it's not talking,
it's singing to you.
286
00:20:58,400 --> 00:21:00,320
I'm very happy here.
What I'm going to do now,
287
00:21:00,320 --> 00:21:03,400
I'm going to flip
my sole into my butter.
288
00:21:08,200 --> 00:21:09,880
Exactly how I want it.
289
00:21:09,880 --> 00:21:11,880
What I'm doing here,
290
00:21:11,880 --> 00:21:13,960
exactly what I did before.
291
00:21:13,960 --> 00:21:16,680
I can remember, in my mum's kitchen,
292
00:21:16,680 --> 00:21:19,600
when we used to have
the sole meuniere,
293
00:21:19,600 --> 00:21:23,440
we used to eat probably
once every two weeks a sole at home.
294
00:21:23,440 --> 00:21:26,320
The sole meuniere like that,
but the highlight for us
295
00:21:26,320 --> 00:21:29,040
is when we used to be able
to go to a brasserie,
296
00:21:29,040 --> 00:21:31,680
and all my brothers and sisters,
we used to say,
297
00:21:31,680 --> 00:21:33,240
"Can we have the sole meuniere?"
298
00:21:33,240 --> 00:21:35,040
That was a big deal.
299
00:21:35,040 --> 00:21:37,440
And each of us would have one sole.
300
00:21:37,440 --> 00:21:40,600
You don't share your sole.
It's one per person.
301
00:21:44,120 --> 00:21:45,680
Yum.
302
00:21:45,680 --> 00:21:48,280
That's ready.
My potatoes are ready.
303
00:21:48,280 --> 00:21:49,480
I'm going to drain them.
304
00:21:52,280 --> 00:21:54,960
I know, I know, you're going to say,
"They're hot, Guillaume."
305
00:21:54,960 --> 00:21:59,280
I know they're hot, trust me,
I'm peeling them, very quickly,
306
00:21:59,280 --> 00:22:01,800
and I just, I don't want
the skin on this one.
307
00:22:01,800 --> 00:22:03,120
Look at this colour.
308
00:22:03,120 --> 00:22:05,360
They look like the colour
of the butter.
309
00:22:11,400 --> 00:22:14,240
Now I've got my lemon,
and what am I doing?
310
00:22:14,240 --> 00:22:15,360
Well, I'm peeling the lemon.
311
00:22:18,240 --> 00:22:19,800
And what I'm doing here,
312
00:22:19,800 --> 00:22:21,880
I'm putting my lemon segment,
313
00:22:21,880 --> 00:22:23,960
so no skin on it,
314
00:22:23,960 --> 00:22:25,960
all of it, just like that.
315
00:22:25,960 --> 00:22:28,600
And you know what?
I'm going to squeeze my lemon...
316
00:22:31,360 --> 00:22:32,800
..a little bit of chopped parsley.
317
00:22:35,160 --> 00:22:36,800
My sole is ready,
318
00:22:36,800 --> 00:22:39,080
and now, look at that,
319
00:22:39,080 --> 00:22:41,720
I've got my beautiful sole,
it's not breaking it up.
320
00:22:43,880 --> 00:22:44,880
Voila.
321
00:22:45,960 --> 00:22:48,800
That, I'm going to add
a little bit of butter.
322
00:22:54,680 --> 00:22:57,000
Little bit of my potatoes,
just like that.
323
00:22:57,000 --> 00:22:59,240
You love the contrast
of the potatoes' colour.
324
00:22:59,240 --> 00:23:00,560
Of course, a little bit of salt.
325
00:23:03,200 --> 00:23:04,480
And you know what?
326
00:23:06,800 --> 00:23:08,680
It's got all the smell I want it to.
327
00:23:08,680 --> 00:23:11,000
Obviously, the butter,
the lemon's coming in,
328
00:23:11,000 --> 00:23:12,480
the parsley's coming in.
329
00:23:12,480 --> 00:23:14,920
I don't know if it's as good
as Le Dome
330
00:23:14,920 --> 00:23:16,920
on the 14th arrondissement of Paris,
331
00:23:16,920 --> 00:23:18,800
but that's bloody good enough for me.
332
00:23:18,800 --> 00:23:20,360
Bon appetit, mes ami.
333
00:23:25,640 --> 00:23:27,440
Next time in Guillaume's Paris,
334
00:23:27,440 --> 00:23:31,560
I sample the spectrum of cuisine
available in the city,
335
00:23:31,560 --> 00:23:33,680
from fine food to fast food.
336
00:23:33,680 --> 00:23:35,600
Might have to do a couple of laps
of the field after that!
337
00:23:35,600 --> 00:23:37,440
Yeah, absolutely!
(LAUGHTER)
338
00:23:37,440 --> 00:23:41,080
I will forage on Europe's
biggest rooftop garden,
339
00:23:41,080 --> 00:23:45,120
and feast with the great chef,
my friend Christian Etchebest.
340
00:23:51,840 --> 00:23:55,160
Captions by Red Bee Media
(c) 2022 SBS Australia
26018
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