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Paris.
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It's a city that moves
to its own rhythm.
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Parisians speak of three key elements
to life -
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Metro, boulot, dodo -
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travel, work, sleep.
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But between those things,
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Parisians know how to live.
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I live on the boat.
I work on the boat.
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You are very, very lucky.
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We are.
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I am Guillaume Brahimi.
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I was born and raised in Paris,
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and I learnt to be a chef in some
of the greatest kitchens
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in this City of Light.
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Now, after 30 years,
I've returned to explore each
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of the 20 arrondissements of Paris,
one by one,
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to discover the best cuisine,
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00:00:48,720 --> 00:00:52,880
and to show you how much food
drives this city.
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Today, I will cook a beautiful
pan-fried veal liver,
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and for dessert, profiteroles,
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made with some of the best chocolate
in Paris.
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The 11th arrondissement is ground
zero of the French revolution.
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Standing proudly at Place de la
Bastille is a statue of Marianne,
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the personification
of the French Republic.
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From the Bastille, the 11th
stretches to the north-east.
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This was once an industrial hub,
full of warehouses.
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Today, it is one of the coolest
places in Paris.
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Among the industrial buildings,
covered in street art,
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is a food and bar scene
that is vibrant.
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This is a foodies paradise.
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Yum!
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My guide in the 11th today
is Johanna Tordjman,
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an artist whose work is inspired
by the diversity of Paris
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and its people.
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Like, I grew up in the suburb,
like, in Creteil, you know?
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Creteil, yeah.
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When I first got my apartment
in Paris, it was in the 11th.
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It's a melting pot, like,
between the Bobo,
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you know, the Bohemian Parisians,
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and at the same time,
it's also, like, very authentic.
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You have the smells,
the taste, the faces.
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It is multicultural.
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Yes, everything is so lively.
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Johanna is taking me to one of her
favourite places
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to sit and watch the world go by.
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Liquiderie is a very trendy bar
on Rue De La Presentation,
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serving organic beer
and wine on tap.
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Wine on tap.
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Yes, that's so,
I've never seen wine on tap.
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You will see that in
the top coolest place in New York,
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and we're here,
in the 11th arrondissements.
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It's cool, no?
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- So that's the pale ale for you.
- Thank you.
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From Nantes, in France.
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- And that's the orange wine.
- Thank you.
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- Merci, merci.
- Thank you.
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Avec plaisir.
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- Cheers.
- Cheers.
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Sante!
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- Yum. That's delicious.
- Mmm.
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So this wine is a maceration
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of Gewurtztraminer.
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The Gewurtztraminer is a grape from,
a white grape from Alsace.
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OK.
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And in this wine, we're going to let
the skins macerate with the juice,
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so it's going to bring this
orange colour you see,
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a little bit of tannins as well,
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and this is going to
concentrate the...
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- Can I do this?
- ..the flavours.
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- Enjoy your drinks!
- Yeah, merci.
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- Feel free to have a seat.
- Merci, Valentin.
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- Thank you. Merci, Valentin.
- Fantastic.
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- Please.
- Thank you.
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I understand why people, you know,
come to a place like that. Chill.
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Yeah.
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Walking the street of the 11th,
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do you get any inspiration
with your art?
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Ah! All the time, you know, like,
I'm getting inspired by people.
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Like, I love to sit down on a terrace
and just look at people walking by
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and be like, what is his life?
What is her life?
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You know, where are they going to?
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They're the invisibles,
a little, of the city.
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- The invisible make the city.
- Of course.
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And with my job, I'm so lucky that
I can be able to go and ask them,
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you know, before a story,
it feels like being a reporter.
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And then their story that they can,
like, feel is small,
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like, is heard from everywhere.
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I had, like, amazing stories.
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I had a woman from Syria,
she brought with her a soap,
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and her mum gave her this soap
so she can never forget her smell,
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you know, while she left.
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- Wow.
- Incredible.
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So much emotion. I love it.
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Yeah, I'm going to enjoy my drink,
we'll just watch the street.
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- Yes.
- I could do that forever.
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And imagine people's lives.
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I think it's time
for something sweet.
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At the Place de la Bastille,
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the statue of Marianne
is holding an olive branch,
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but I always thought
she should be holding chocolate,
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considering how much Paris loves it.
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Chocolate was expensive
when it first came to France.
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It was like a recreational drug,
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reserved for royalty,
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thanks to its natural mild kick.
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Marie Antoinette even had her own
chocolatier on the roster.
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However, after the Revolution,
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chocolate become a pleasure
for all Parisians to enjoy.
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On Rue de la Roquette
is a chocolate factory in Paris
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that is second to none.
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Alain Ducasse is one of the great
chefs of the world,
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and in 2013,
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he turned his attention to chocolate.
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His workshop produces
incredible chocolate,
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from bean to bar.
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After looking at all this
beautiful chocolate,
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I have to cook something with it,
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and I can't wait to share with you
the perfect profiterole recipe
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with a great chocolate sauce.
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I am so excited today.
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I've got Alain Ducasse chocolate,
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and I'm going to do one of my
favourite desserts,
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profiteroles with vanilla beans
ice-cream and hot chocolate sauce.
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So to start with,
let's make the profiteroles.
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Milk, sugar, butter,
I'm going to melt all of that,
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and that's the start
of your pate a choux.
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All you're wanting now
is for the butter to melt.
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I'm going to put my flour...
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(PAN SIZZLES)
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..and we're going to put
everything together.
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Look at that.
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And the reason why I want
my pate a choux nice and dry
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because that will give me
airy and fluffy petits choux.
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And that's perfect.
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And I can add my egg, my two eggs.
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And I'm going to get my eggs
into my pate a choux.
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I've got a beautiful pate a choux.
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Look at that, nice and dry,
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ready to be piped.
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I've got my piping bag.
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I'm going to put my pate a choux
in it,
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just like that,
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just going to bring it to the top,
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and I'm going to pipe it.
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OK.
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That's one.
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It is quite important you leave
enough space
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between each profiterole,
because they're going to grow,
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and you don't want them
to touch each other.
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And here we go,
that's my last profiterole.
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I'm very happy with it,
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and that's it,
ready to go in the oven,
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200 degrees, for about 20 minutes.
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And now I'm going to make
the chocolate sauce,
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because there is not such a thing
as a profiterole
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without chocolate sauce.
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And I'm using the 70% chocolate
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from Alain Ducasse,
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and when I say 70%,
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it means it's 70% pure cacao,
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so the flavour will be so strong.
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So I'm supposed to put about
300 to 400 grams of chocolate.
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I think I was quite generous
on this one,
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but I don't think anyone
will complain.
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My cream's boiling. Perfect.
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It's exactly how I want it,
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and I'm going to pour it
into my chocolate.
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All of it.
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All I'm going to do
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is let the hot cream
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melt my chocolate.
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Because I don't think
it's creamy enough,
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I'm going to put a touch of butter
into my chocolate sauce.
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So here we go. I'm very happy,
my butter is going to melt nicely.
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Let's have a look at a profiterole.
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Look at that, just the perfect
little profiteroles.
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What I love,
they're all very individual.
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I want to cut just the top off,
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make sure there's enough air into it
for my ice-cream.
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What we'll get to now
is pretty simple.
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Put a scoop of vanilla ice-cream
on each of them,
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and after that we're going to have a
little bit of fun with the chocolate.
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I'm not trying to make
the perfect ice-cream ball,
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I just want some ice-cream
on my profiterole.
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Very happy with that.
What else?
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Ah, it's a little bit of clapping.
A snow of icing sugar.
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Just like that.
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What I'm going to do now,
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each profiterole get their casquette,
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their top, their hat.
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And the last one,
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just there.
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OK. All I want to do is pour some
chocolate sauce on my profiteroles.
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How much are we going to put?
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I think one spoon per profiterole.
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So five spoon of chocolate sauce.
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Voila.
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Do you know what?
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I'm very happy with my profiteroles,
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00:11:42,920 --> 00:11:46,920
and I really believe Marie Antoinette
would have loved my chocolate sauce.
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Bon appetit.
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00:12:01,720 --> 00:12:05,320
The 12th is an energetic
arrondissement.
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Parisians love to move around
their beautiful city.
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Some ride, some walk, some dance,
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but Paris, it's about going places,
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fast or slow.
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The 12th is about transport,
in more ways than one.
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The 12th sits on the Right Bank
of the River Seine,
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and features Saint Martin Canal
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and the enormous Gare de Lyon
train station.
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Before the train lines were built,
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the waterways of Paris
were its lifeblood.
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Produce was moved to the city
via canals connected to the Seine.
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These days, the waterways
are about taking in the view.
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But in the 12th,
near Place de la Bastille,
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Saint Martin Canal is a place
some lucky Parisians call home.
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00:12:53,880 --> 00:12:56,480
This row of peniches, or barges,
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are a permanent floating village.
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The community here live and work
side by side in a unique way.
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I've been invited to join them
for a barbecue,
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00:13:07,560 --> 00:13:12,400
and since we are on the water,
I am going to prepare some seafood.
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Mussels cooked in creme fraiche
and white wine
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is a perfect dish to share
while we chat on the deck.
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I love it.
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In Paris, you can live 100 metres
from the Bastille
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without spending 3 million euros.
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We love your mussels!
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They're simple. You know, my friends
in Australia, when I say I do mussels
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they say,
"OK, do we need fork, knife?"
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I say, "How many fingers
have you got?"
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Mmm, beautiful.
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And you just moved here?
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00:13:58,440 --> 00:13:59,840
Yeah, just arrived.
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00:13:59,840 --> 00:14:01,360
Yes, I'm very new.
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00:14:01,360 --> 00:14:04,320
But like, I can feel like,
like there is a community.
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00:14:04,320 --> 00:14:06,040
We all know each other,
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and I heard you have a barbecue
once a month.
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00:14:08,480 --> 00:14:12,000
Once a month, we have a barbecue,
sort of meeting of everybody
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00:14:12,000 --> 00:14:14,360
who lives in the marina.
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00:14:14,360 --> 00:14:17,120
I know it sounds maybe cliche
as a question,
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but why, why living on the water?
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You have the fish under,
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00:14:21,920 --> 00:14:23,480
the birds upstairs,
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and your neighbours
are the swans.
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And the beer in the fridge.
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- Yes!
- And the wine, also.
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00:14:30,280 --> 00:14:33,840
I think, though, the most important
is that you have
248
00:14:33,840 --> 00:14:36,200
this very strange feeling of freedom.
249
00:14:36,200 --> 00:14:38,200
Of course you are in Paris,
but tomorrow,
250
00:14:38,200 --> 00:14:41,840
if I can live 200 kilometres
from Paris.
251
00:14:41,840 --> 00:14:46,120
So you have this feeling
that, "peut etre", maybe, you know?
252
00:14:46,120 --> 00:14:48,680
And this boat is very important
for me,
253
00:14:48,680 --> 00:14:51,480
because it's really a way of life.
254
00:14:51,480 --> 00:14:54,080
I live on the boat,
I work on the boat,
255
00:14:54,080 --> 00:14:56,120
I receive all my friends on the boat.
256
00:14:56,120 --> 00:15:00,960
It's a place with
a very special mood.
257
00:15:00,960 --> 00:15:02,560
Do you sleep well on the boat?
258
00:15:02,560 --> 00:15:04,680
- Oh, yes.
- Yeah, I can imagine.
259
00:15:04,680 --> 00:15:06,760
I get the three answer
at the same time.
260
00:15:06,760 --> 00:15:08,960
"Oh, yeah!" I love that.
261
00:15:08,960 --> 00:15:10,680
A marina, with boats,
262
00:15:10,680 --> 00:15:12,400
it's a real peace to have the two,
263
00:15:12,400 --> 00:15:16,840
to have the solitude, if you want,
if you want to be alone, to be Zen,
264
00:15:16,840 --> 00:15:20,840
or if you want to see your friends,
which are on other boats.
265
00:15:20,840 --> 00:15:23,640
A marina is really a place
for the two parts of life.
266
00:15:23,640 --> 00:15:25,200
Absolutely. I've discovered this.
267
00:15:25,200 --> 00:15:26,560
A very good balance of life.
268
00:15:26,560 --> 00:15:28,120
Very good balance.
269
00:15:28,120 --> 00:15:30,160
I think you're very, very lucky.
270
00:15:30,160 --> 00:15:31,160
We are.
271
00:15:31,160 --> 00:15:32,760
Thank you, thank you for having me.
272
00:15:32,760 --> 00:15:35,000
- Thank you, you!
- I'm not leaving, by the way!
273
00:15:35,000 --> 00:15:37,600
We hope to have you again here.
274
00:15:45,000 --> 00:15:47,280
Since this boat isn't going anywhere,
275
00:15:47,280 --> 00:15:50,880
I will have to take the Metro home
for dinner,
276
00:15:50,880 --> 00:15:54,160
and on the way, I will be
travelling back in time
277
00:15:54,160 --> 00:15:55,800
for a show-stopping dessert.
278
00:16:02,240 --> 00:16:05,600
Train lines are the
arteries of Paris.
279
00:16:05,600 --> 00:16:09,160
The old, elevated railway,
running through the 12th,
280
00:16:09,160 --> 00:16:14,920
was the first in the world to be
converted into a beautiful city park.
281
00:16:14,920 --> 00:16:18,840
But underground,
the Paris Metro never stop running,
282
00:16:18,840 --> 00:16:21,760
as it delivers people
across the city,
283
00:16:21,760 --> 00:16:22,920
day and night.
284
00:16:22,920 --> 00:16:26,960
Paris may be the only city
in the world where the train station
285
00:16:26,960 --> 00:16:29,640
is a place to eat,
rather than travel,
286
00:16:29,640 --> 00:16:32,280
and that's exactly
what I'm doing today.
287
00:16:32,280 --> 00:16:36,400
Deep inside Gare de Lyon station
is a gourmet restaurant
288
00:16:36,400 --> 00:16:40,040
that combines train travel
and culinary triumph.
289
00:17:00,960 --> 00:17:02,800
It's just mind-blowing.
290
00:17:02,800 --> 00:17:05,640
All the cities of France
are on this wall.
291
00:17:05,640 --> 00:17:06,920
It's unbelievable.
292
00:17:26,560 --> 00:17:31,520
Joining me are the people who really
make this restaurant so special.
293
00:17:31,520 --> 00:17:34,320
The legendary Michel Rostang,
294
00:17:34,320 --> 00:17:37,680
and the executive chef Samir Balia.
295
00:19:40,640 --> 00:19:42,120
This is unbelievable.
296
00:19:42,120 --> 00:19:44,480
This is a moment people
have been waiting for.
297
00:19:47,360 --> 00:19:48,360
Merci, chef.
298
00:20:30,360 --> 00:20:33,240
It would be easy to miss your train,
dining here.
299
00:20:33,240 --> 00:20:36,080
It really transports you
to another era.
300
00:20:37,520 --> 00:20:42,880
Riding the Paris Metro takes me back
to my time as a young apprentice,
301
00:20:42,880 --> 00:20:44,840
travelling to work.
302
00:20:44,840 --> 00:20:47,840
I have great memories
of arriving home.
303
00:20:47,840 --> 00:20:49,200
Exhausted,
304
00:20:49,200 --> 00:20:53,800
my dear mum would make a special
meal to keep me strong and healthy,
305
00:20:53,800 --> 00:20:55,880
but also happy,
306
00:20:55,880 --> 00:20:59,400
and so I want to transport you
back to my youth,
307
00:20:59,400 --> 00:21:00,800
by making that dish.
308
00:21:03,960 --> 00:21:06,240
In the 12th arrondissement of Paris,
309
00:21:06,240 --> 00:21:09,920
I can promise you veal liver
will be on every menu,
310
00:21:09,920 --> 00:21:11,680
but also in every home.
311
00:21:11,680 --> 00:21:14,200
My mum used to do it very simply,
312
00:21:14,200 --> 00:21:18,080
pan-fried, but with some
very important ingredients -
313
00:21:18,080 --> 00:21:20,960
garlic, parsley, croutons,
314
00:21:20,960 --> 00:21:23,440
butter, and crispy potato.
315
00:21:23,440 --> 00:21:26,040
I'm using les nouvelles
petits potatoes.
316
00:21:26,040 --> 00:21:28,320
Look at the colour. They are yellow.
317
00:21:28,320 --> 00:21:30,520
I bought my potatoes this morning.
318
00:21:30,520 --> 00:21:32,240
I'm not going to peel them.
319
00:21:32,240 --> 00:21:34,320
All I'm doing is
320
00:21:34,320 --> 00:21:35,600
nice and thin.
321
00:21:39,000 --> 00:21:41,440
I'm putting little bit of oil in it.
322
00:21:41,440 --> 00:21:44,120
My oil, it's nice and warm,
323
00:21:44,120 --> 00:21:45,320
and how do you know that?
324
00:21:45,320 --> 00:21:47,320
- Listen to the noise.
- (PAN SIZZLES)
325
00:21:47,320 --> 00:21:49,280
It would be so much easier
to take the potatoes,
326
00:21:49,280 --> 00:21:52,720
put them in the fryer, and up,
it's ready in 30 seconds.
327
00:21:52,720 --> 00:21:56,400
But no, no, no. We're in Paris here,
and it's all about time.
328
00:21:56,400 --> 00:21:57,480
Take time.
329
00:21:57,480 --> 00:21:58,520
I don't want them burnt,
330
00:21:58,520 --> 00:22:00,560
I want them crispy on the outside,
331
00:22:00,560 --> 00:22:02,120
and soft in the middle.
332
00:22:03,280 --> 00:22:05,240
And look at that. That's it.
333
00:22:05,240 --> 00:22:07,800
That's how I want them.
Nice and crispy.
334
00:22:07,800 --> 00:22:12,280
I'm going to put a touch of garlic,
so half of my chopped garlic,
335
00:22:12,280 --> 00:22:14,640
my parsley,
336
00:22:14,640 --> 00:22:17,560
and, of course, a touch of butter.
337
00:22:17,560 --> 00:22:19,880
(PAN SIZZLES)
338
00:22:25,120 --> 00:22:28,040
All I need to add
is a pinch of salt.
339
00:22:30,680 --> 00:22:31,680
Try one.
340
00:22:36,560 --> 00:22:39,160
30 years later,
still tastes the same.
341
00:22:39,160 --> 00:22:40,600
I love it.
342
00:22:40,600 --> 00:22:42,320
I'm leaving them like that, OK?
343
00:22:42,320 --> 00:22:44,680
I'm really happy with that.
344
00:22:44,680 --> 00:22:46,000
I've got my pan here
345
00:22:46,000 --> 00:22:48,160
and I'm going to cook my liver.
346
00:22:48,160 --> 00:22:49,920
So quite a bit of butter.
347
00:22:52,080 --> 00:22:55,120
We are not talking about a piece
of fish or a steak.
348
00:22:55,120 --> 00:22:57,840
This is liver, it's very delicate,
349
00:22:57,840 --> 00:22:59,840
so just be gentle with it.
350
00:22:59,840 --> 00:23:03,080
I'm going to do my butter
on top of it.
351
00:23:03,080 --> 00:23:05,000
Let's turn this liver.
352
00:23:05,000 --> 00:23:06,000
Look at that.
353
00:23:07,280 --> 00:23:08,440
Nice and crispy.
354
00:23:09,840 --> 00:23:12,440
I'm going to put my crouton,
355
00:23:12,440 --> 00:23:14,520
the dice of bread.
356
00:23:14,520 --> 00:23:16,960
I'm going to add my garlic...
357
00:23:19,240 --> 00:23:20,640
..and my parsley.
358
00:23:22,520 --> 00:23:24,000
A touch more of butter.
359
00:23:25,240 --> 00:23:27,080
It's missing some acidity,
360
00:23:27,080 --> 00:23:30,640
and the acidity is going to be
my red wine vinegar.
361
00:23:30,640 --> 00:23:32,560
And that's ready now. Here we go.
362
00:23:32,560 --> 00:23:35,440
- (PAN SIZZLES)
- Oh, yeah.
363
00:23:35,440 --> 00:23:37,440
Oh, yeah!
364
00:23:37,440 --> 00:23:38,760
Yum! And that's it.
365
00:23:40,920 --> 00:23:43,440
So I'm just slicing my liver.
366
00:23:44,960 --> 00:23:48,280
It is so tender. Unbelievable.
367
00:23:48,280 --> 00:23:49,760
I put it on my plate.
368
00:23:50,760 --> 00:23:53,280
I'm going to add my beurre noisette,
369
00:23:53,280 --> 00:23:55,040
with my red wine vinegar,
370
00:23:55,040 --> 00:23:57,760
my garlic, parsley and croutons.
371
00:24:03,360 --> 00:24:05,160
A touch of salt.
372
00:24:05,160 --> 00:24:06,160
Voila.
373
00:24:07,160 --> 00:24:08,800
And look at that.
374
00:24:08,800 --> 00:24:10,960
I think my mum would be
very proud of it.
375
00:24:10,960 --> 00:24:13,200
Actually, I know she would be,
376
00:24:13,200 --> 00:24:16,320
as well as everybody
in the 12th arrondissement.
377
00:24:16,320 --> 00:24:18,640
What can I say?
Bon appetit, mes amis.
378
00:24:23,520 --> 00:24:25,560
Next time in Guillaume's Paris,
379
00:24:25,560 --> 00:24:27,480
a fusion of flavours,
380
00:24:27,480 --> 00:24:31,480
as I visit one of the oldest cafes
in the city,
381
00:24:31,480 --> 00:24:35,240
and a tour of Chinatown,
with the culinary legend,
382
00:24:35,240 --> 00:24:37,120
my dear friend, Ken Hom.
383
00:24:37,120 --> 00:24:39,480
I mean, you're not going to get fat
eating this.
384
00:24:39,480 --> 00:24:41,440
This is a marathon,
this is not a sprint,
385
00:24:41,440 --> 00:24:43,480
when you're eating curries.
386
00:24:43,480 --> 00:24:46,960
Captions by Red Bee Media
(c) 2022 SBS Australia
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