All language subtitles for Guillaumes.Paris.S01E02.1080p.HDTV.H264-CBFM.1

The Third Arrondissement

reflects true French character,
and some colourful characters.

This is one of the most
popular places to live in Paris.

It's a district
with a great quality of life

and a fascinating history.

A long time ago,
the Third used to be a swamp.

Today, this area
is known as Le Marais,

and it's famous for
the beautiful mansions,

wonderful shopping

and, of course,
the amazing restaurants.

In the Third, food is done
with care and with love.

The food fixation here

dates all the way back
to the 17th century,

when the local market was built.

Situated on Rue de Bretagne,

Marche des Enfants Rouges is the
oldest covered market in Paris.

My tour guide is Pascal Fonquernie,

the unofficial ambassador
of the Marias

who has lived here for over 35 years.

The market was created in 1610.

- And we...
- 1610?

..we recently celebrated
the 400th anniversary.

From a market, it became,
step by step, kind of a food hall.

There is a lot of varieties of food.

I'm seeing
some Lebanese restaurants...

- Exactly.
- ..some...some Italian, some Syrian.

Basically, in a few square metres,

we have all the world cuisine.

The world into a square.

Let's go have a look.

It's part of the character of Paris

to serve good food to everyone,
no matter how rich you are.

Pascal takes me to a small restaurant
connected to the market

called Le Troisieme Cafe,

which reflects the French spirit

of liberty, equality and fraternity.

This cafe was born seven years ago.

The idea was to offer
the possibility

to give free food to the homeless...

- Beautiful. Beautiful.
- ..for the people who need it.

So, basically, the food
comes from the market.

- Yeah.
- It's given free.

When you go, you pay your menu,
very cheap.

- 12 euro for...
- Yeah, yeah, yeah.
- ..for three course.

- Unbelievable.
- Oui.

I can't...I can't imagine...

And it's very good and it's,
uh, fresh food from the market.

And, uh, the extra tip you give
is pre-paying

the food for the people
who will come next to you.

So, instead of giving a tip
to the team who serve me,

- I'm actually paying...
- What they call...

- ..I'm feeding someone...
- ..a 'place suspendue'.

- A 'place suspendue'...
- Or a 'cafe suspendue'.

Let me introduce you to the chef.
His name is Robin.

Every day is a new recipe,
freshly made,

uh, with food from the market.

So, Robin does food
from all around the world.

He get inspired with every cuisine,

from African to Indian to Mauritius,

where Robin is from.

The smell here is very exotic.

I love how passionate
Parisians are about their food,

whether the meal costs
12 euro or 120.

There is a respect
for the produce and the process.

I know someone in the Third who is
the personification of that passion,

and he makes the best caramel
in Paris.

On Rue de Turenne
is an old warehouse

that has been transformed into

a temple of confectionary,

and the shop is named after the man
who runs it - Jacques Genin,

a beloved character
in the Paris food scene.

Jacques's love for his craft is clear

as soon as you enter
this elegant boutique.

The glass cases are filled with
a delightful display

of chocolates, jellies and caramels,

and I am hoping Jacques might tell me

his secrets for making
these wonderful sweets.

I'm in luck.

Jacques drags me up to his kitchen,

which is filled with
the delicious smell

of melting sugar and butter,

and his secrets start
spilling out instantly.

OK, OK.

OK, I need to move.

Wow. Wow!

OK.

OK. We want to make sure
the butter doesn't get liquid.

Wow.

It is dangerous!

Oh, OK.

Jacques whisks like he's conducting
the Barber of Seville.

After burning several calories,

mixing the butter and sugar,

the caramel is ready,

and we can put
a few calories back on.

The ginger stay in your mouth.

This is a caramel life.

Love it.

Watching Jacques conducting
his symphony of caramel

has me thinking about a Paris dish
I'm passionate about,

and it's named after a composer -

the beef Rossini.

I'm stopping at a beautiful butcher
in the Third

to pick up a tenderloin for dinner.

I can tell you Adrien and Edouard
are serious about their meat.

I'm going to make a boeuf Rossini.

So, me, what I would like
is an amazing piece of tenderloin.

- Sure.
- Yeah? Oh, awesome.

These ones here is dried 70 days.

- 70 days?
- Yeah.

We like it 'cause it's
usually really tender.

Yeah.

And you still have some marbling
appearing in the filet,

- which is kind of lean, usually.
- Yeah.

So, the more you age it, like 70 days
is quite a long time, you know?

- Over two months
in...in a cool room.
- Yeah.

Is that going to enhance the flavour?

Absolutely. This one,
there is no more water.

- So, the flavour is enhanced.
- Yeah.

It's like it's going to be more
delicate, also, for the tenderness.

- Yeah.
- It's like cheese.

- It's like a...Brugge.
- Wine.

It's like wine.

I am excited by
this beautiful cut of meat.

I can't wait to get back
to my kitchen

to show you how to make
an indulgent beef Rossini.

I was in the Third Arrondissement,

and I really wanted to do
a beef Rossini.

It's all about, really,
three ingredients -

a beautiful beef tenderloin,
some foie gras and some truffle.

I'm just adding
a beautiful celeriac puree with it.

How do we start?

I'm going to do my madere sauce.

You need to chop your shallots

quite finely.

I'm going to put a touch of butter
into my pan,

and all I'm going to do
is roast my shallot,

I don't want them to burn.

I just want them to
have a golden colour.

And, of course, a little bit of thyme

and a couple of leaves of bay leaves.

I'm happy with the colour.

I'm going to put
a little bit of madere.

I'm just going to reduce it by half.

All I want is concentrate my madere
with my shallots.

And after that, I'm going to put
my veal jus into it.

Perfect.

OK, madere nearly done.

Now celeriac puree.

I did cook my celeriac prior.

Very simple - celeriac diced,
milk, thyme, bay leaves.

I'm going to drain my celeriac,
just like that.

And what I'm going to do now,

I'm putting it into my pot here.

And what I did
is I just boiled a touch a cream.

And I'm going to use
my little Bamix.

The smell of my celeriac...

Oh, I just love celeriac!

It's beautiful, it's soft,

it's exactly how I want it.

It's just such a simple way
to make a puree.

Now it's time to cook the beef.

So, I'm going to use
this nice big pan.

A little bit of butter.

I'm going to put
a little bit more butter

because I want my tenderloin
to have a butter bath.

I reckon for about 230 gram
of beef tenderloin,

you need to cook it
for a good eight minutes -

four minutes each side.

And that will give you
a perfect medium-rare.

And I'm going to take
my beef off now.

I'm really happy with it.

I just want it to rest.

What I'm going to do now,
I'm going to chop some truffle.

I am not going to
chop the truffle too finely.

I want pieces in my jus

and I'm going to put some truffle
into my celeriac puree.

And we are nearly there now.

I'm going to seal my foie gras.

I'm got going to put
any butter into my pan.

The foie gras slab,
I'm going to put in the pan.

It's got plenty of fat.

It's going to go very quickly.

We are not cooking the foie gras.
We're just sealing it.

Look at that - all the flavour
coming out of the foie gras.

And you know what I'm going to do?

Yes.

I am putting my steak into it

because I want it to get

a little bit of foie gras flavour.

Let's make a little bed of celeriac.

I'm going to take my beef
and foie gras on top of it.

The finishing touch,
the pouring of the sauce.

Voila.

Wow.

Look at that - the foie gras,
the truffle, the amazing tenderloin.

This is pleasure on a plate,

and I know it's going to taste
as good as it looks.

Bon appetit.

Love of the work well done
is a very Parisian attitude.

In the Fourth Arrondissement,

you can find people
who follow this philosophy

to build some of the most popular
food destinations in Paris.

The Fourth Arrondissement sits
on the right bank of the Seine

and features
the city's two river islands

and Notre Dame Cathedral.

It is one of the few arrondissements

that escaped renovations
in the 1800s,

which makes it one of
the best areas in Paris

to see the medieval architecture

that once existed across the city.

In the 19th century,

the Fourth became the district
Jewish migrants moved into,

and that history
can still be felt today.

It is the place to go
for authentic Jewish fare.

I've heard that L'as du Fallafel
on Rue des Rosiers

is the best restaurant in Paris
for Middle Eastern cuisine.

And by the size of the crowd being
ushered in by owner Yomi Peretz,

the rumours must be true.

Wow.

The falafel is delicious -

crispy on the outside, soft in
the middle, full of flavour.

And a touch of chilli sauce
is just perfect.

There are no tables available inside,

so I take the falafel to go

and explore
this historical neighbourhood.

Love of the work well done

is exactly how to capture the hearts
and stomachs of Parisians.

And next, I'm going to visit a shop
that is loved by the entire city

for making some of
the best ice-cream you ever tasted.

The Fourth Arrondissement
was once the home of royalty.

At Place des Vosges you can get
a feeling for life at that time.

Originally called Place Royale,

the apartments
surrounding the gardens

were the homes of aristocrats,

and the lawns were used for
royal pageants or fighting duels.

The kings and queens
of France may be long gone,

but there is still royalty
in the Fourth.

In the middle of the Seine,
on Ile Saint-Louis,

you can find monarchs of dessert,
working in an ice-cream castle.

Berthillon is an institution
in France.

Started by
Raymond Berthillon in 1954,

multiple generations of his family

continue his legacy of making
all-natural ice-cream and sorbet.

I feel honoured to be received
by Bernard and his daughter, Muriel,

for a degustation of dessert
in their beautiful tea room.

Life can be so sweet.

BERNARD: Oh!

Ooh!

I'm definitely in trouble here.

Pear, salted caramel.
Tch! I'll keep going.

I'm a professional, so I was sure
to sample each and every one,

from the strawberry and vanilla,
to the crispy tuille.

The experience
can be summed up in one word.

Wow!

That's my favourite. The whole lot.

I want to come back next week.

Maybe just one more scoop as I think
about what to make for dinner.

It might be hard to believe,

but for royalty in the 17th century,

garden peas were like ice-cream -

a sweet delicacy to indulge in.

So, after meeting food royalty

and visiting the gardens
of Place des Vosges,

I think the perfect dish
for the Fourth Arrondissement

is a royale with peas.

I'm going to serve my royale
with peas with a tourteau.

The tourteau is a local crab
from Brittany,

and I love the tourteau.

So, I'm going to make a custard,
and what do you need in a custard?

You need cream, egg.

I'm making a pea royale,
so I need a pea jus.

Very simple.

I cook my peas, fresh peas -

boiling water, salt, drain it, blend
it and you end up with a pea jus.

So, I'm going to break my egg.

I'm going to put my pea jus.

All of it.

There.

Look at this colour.

And just make sure,
when you pour your custard mix,

there is no bubble into it.

So, be gentle with it.

So, it's done.

All you need to do now
is put it in your steam oven

for 15 minutes, at 90 degrees.

During this time,
I'm going to make my vinaigrette.

A touch of olive oil.

I've got my chopped shallots.

I've got a little bit of chilli.

Voila.

The smell is great.

I'm going to put some crouton.

What is crouton?
It's just a little cube of bread.

Beautiful.

And my crouton's going to absorb

the olive oil and the chilli
and the shallot,

exactly how I want it.

And I'm going to add to
my pea royale

the king of the seas of Brittany

and I'm talking about the tourteau.

Beautiful, big beast it is.

And I picked the cooked crab meat,

and all I'm going to do is put
the crab meat into my dressing.

And I'm sure my royale is ready.

And let's have a look.

Oh, yeah.

All you're trying to make sure

is your royale
is nice and bound together.

Beautifully cooked. Perfect.

My royale is ready.

I'm going to add
one more thing to my dressing.

Of course, some whole peas.

Because there is no acidity
whatsoever in your dish,

I'm going to put a touch of vinegar
just before serving.

Just like that.

Ready to serve.

Be generous.

I'm just going to add
a little bit of mint,

because peas and mint,

it's a pretty good marriage, is it?

And all I'm doing, I'm drizzling
my mint into my crab,

into my peas.

And, voila.

This is a very simple dish called
royale of peas with tourteau crab.

I think it's a dish
for a king and a queen,

Bon appetit, Your Highness.

Next time in Guillaume's Paris,

join me for a private tour

of the incredible Grande Mosque.

And we dine with a chef
who started a food movement

that has taken over Paris -

Yves Camdeborde,
the godfather of bistronomy.

Captions by Red Bee Media
(c) SBS Australia 2022