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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:13,200 --> 00:00:16,160 We live on a crowded planet. 2 00:00:20,139 --> 00:00:23,639 But there are still vast areas. 3 00:00:25,039 --> 00:00:27,000 where nature has the upper hand. 4 00:00:27,000 --> 00:00:29,439 It looks like another planet. 5 00:00:29,439 --> 00:00:33,200 I'm heading to the last great wildernesses. 6 00:00:38,120 --> 00:00:41,399 I'll try to cross four of these rugged landscapes. 7 00:00:41,399 --> 00:00:42,480 Oh, my God! 8 00:00:42,480 --> 00:00:45,160 on my toughest journeys yet. 9 00:00:45,160 --> 00:00:48,400 I have to be honest - things are not going brilliantly. 10 00:00:48,400 --> 00:00:49,999 A bit of a medical situation. 11 00:00:49,999 --> 00:00:52,639 Help is a long way away. 12 00:00:54,200 --> 00:00:56,559 - Well done. 13 00:00:56,559 --> 00:01:00,080 - I want to meet the people for whom the wilderness is home. 14 00:01:00,080 --> 00:01:02,999 Testicles for breakfast, lunch and dinner. 15 00:01:05,080 --> 00:01:07,999 to see how they live alongside nature. 16 00:01:07,999 --> 00:01:10,239 Whoa! 17 00:01:12,040 --> 00:01:14,400 I can stay down there for a minute or so. 18 00:01:14,400 --> 00:01:17,639 He's still down there now walking around. 19 00:01:17,639 --> 00:01:20,600 And in this critical time for our world. 20 00:01:20,600 --> 00:01:23,480 Huge carcasses of great trees. 21 00:01:23,480 --> 00:01:27,439 seek out the rare and majestic creatures that still survive. 22 00:01:28,680 --> 00:01:30,919 My heart is racing. 23 00:01:32,239 --> 00:01:35,639 in some of the most hostile environments. 24 00:01:35,639 --> 00:01:37,519 Are you OK, Jonathan? - Yeah, yeah. 25 00:01:37,519 --> 00:01:38,880 - and the remotest regions. 26 00:01:38,880 --> 00:01:40,200 Bloody hell! 27 00:01:40,200 --> 00:01:42,120 of our wild planet. 28 00:01:42,120 --> 00:01:43,639 Ssh! 29 00:01:45,040 --> 00:01:47,160 - Coo-coo! - Coo! 30 00:01:49,519 --> 00:01:52,840 Big cats roaming free. 31 00:01:52,840 --> 00:01:58,239 This surely is the absolute definition of a real wilderness. 32 00:02:15,040 --> 00:02:18,480 I'm travelling across the Kalahari Desert, 33 00:02:18,480 --> 00:02:23,280 a huge area of wilderness that stretches across Southern Africa. 34 00:02:23,280 --> 00:02:26,359 It's one of the wildest places on Earth. 35 00:02:26,359 --> 00:02:30,239 I'm heading into a very remote region. 36 00:02:30,239 --> 00:02:32,359 For mile after mile here, 37 00:02:32,359 --> 00:02:36,000 there's just scrub, shrub and dusty dry land. 38 00:02:36,000 --> 00:02:38,919 Everything here is growing in the largest 39 00:02:38,919 --> 00:02:42,160 basin of sand on planet Earth. 40 00:02:42,160 --> 00:02:46,880 At points here, the sand sinks 1,000 metres deep. 41 00:02:48,120 --> 00:02:50,279 But despite the harsh terrain, 42 00:02:50,279 --> 00:02:52,079 the Kalahari is bursting with life. 43 00:02:52,079 --> 00:02:56,880 - Simon, close, elephant. 44 00:02:56,880 --> 00:02:58,679 - Elephants! 45 00:03:02,359 --> 00:03:04,519 Wow! 46 00:03:09,560 --> 00:03:12,839 Here in the Kalahari, 47 00:03:12,839 --> 00:03:16,119 in this very dry part of the continent, 48 00:03:16,119 --> 00:03:23,000 there are still giant beasts walking through the sandy desert. 49 00:03:25,359 --> 00:03:29,919 A vast wilderness the size of Germany, long eulogised 50 00:03:29,919 --> 00:03:33,720 and romanticised, the Kalahari is a semi-desert 51 00:03:33,720 --> 00:03:37,720 where seasonal rains ensure there's now food for wildlife to thrive. 52 00:03:47,200 --> 00:03:50,279 But the Kalahari is just as famous for its people. 53 00:03:50,279 --> 00:03:52,279 I'm travelling with Darm Debai. 54 00:03:52,279 --> 00:03:56,399 He's one of the San - the indigenous people of the Kalahari. 55 00:03:57,720 --> 00:04:00,079 There's a jackal. 56 00:04:00,079 --> 00:04:01,600 - Cairee. 57 00:04:01,600 --> 00:04:04,120 In our language we call it cairee. 58 00:04:04,120 --> 00:04:06,440 Cairee. Say cairee. 59 00:04:06,440 --> 00:04:08,720 - One more time. - Cairee. 60 00:04:08,720 --> 00:04:12,359 - Airee. - Cairee. 61 00:04:12,359 --> 00:04:14,440 - I can't do it, Darm, I can't! 62 00:04:18,480 --> 00:04:22,519 The San have been in the Kalahari for tens of thousands of years 63 00:04:22,519 --> 00:04:25,320 as trackers, hunters and gatherers, 64 00:04:25,320 --> 00:04:28,320 famous for their extraordinary survival skills. 65 00:04:28,320 --> 00:04:32,880 Humans have always live here shaping and protecting the Kalahari 66 00:04:32,880 --> 00:04:36,120 as much as any wilderness on the planet. 67 00:04:37,320 --> 00:04:40,240 The Kalahari sits in the middle of Southern Africa, 68 00:04:40,240 --> 00:04:42,800 straddling six countries. 69 00:04:42,800 --> 00:04:44,880 I'm travelling through its dry centre 70 00:04:44,880 --> 00:04:48,760 heading for the spectacular wetlands of the Okavango Delta. 71 00:04:51,159 --> 00:04:54,519 I'm starting in the north-west, in Namibia, on my way to 72 00:04:54,519 --> 00:04:56,959 a traditional San village. 73 00:04:56,959 --> 00:05:00,359 Then I'll journey east into Botswana, travelling through 74 00:05:00,359 --> 00:05:03,800 the vast emptiness of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve. 75 00:05:03,800 --> 00:05:06,479 I'm hoping to end my journey at one of the greatest 76 00:05:06,479 --> 00:05:09,359 concentrations of wildlife on this continent. 77 00:05:15,360 --> 00:05:19,560 I'm heading to a remote village that is home to some of the last 78 00:05:19,560 --> 00:05:24,000 great wildlife trackers and hunters 79 00:05:24,000 --> 00:05:26,479 in any wilderness on the planet. 80 00:05:27,839 --> 00:05:33,120 Denui is a small San village in Namibia's Nyae Nyae Conservancy. 81 00:05:33,120 --> 00:05:35,920 People here live mostly in traditional San dwellings 82 00:05:35,920 --> 00:05:38,279 made of wood and clay. 83 00:05:38,279 --> 00:05:41,399 They have some livestock and crops, 84 00:05:41,399 --> 00:05:45,159 but, far from any town, they also hunt to survive. 85 00:05:48,839 --> 00:05:51,599 Darm has brought me to meet an old friend. 86 00:06:01,359 --> 00:06:03,320 This is old Tui? - Yeah! 87 00:06:04,760 --> 00:06:06,479 But he's still young. 88 00:06:06,479 --> 00:06:08,200 - He's still young. 89 00:06:08,200 --> 00:06:10,479 You're not that old! 90 00:06:12,639 --> 00:06:15,000 Tomorrow we'll head into the bush. 91 00:06:15,000 --> 00:06:18,000 But now the sun's going down, it's time to rest. 92 00:06:23,000 --> 00:06:25,240 Oh, my goodness. 93 00:06:31,839 --> 00:06:33,279 I'm all right, thank you. 94 00:06:33,279 --> 00:06:34,800 Oh, my God. 95 00:06:34,800 --> 00:06:37,159 It's like being in the forest. 96 00:06:37,159 --> 00:06:38,440 Look at this. 97 00:06:38,440 --> 00:06:40,959 It's like a work of art. 98 00:06:50,279 --> 00:06:54,920 Oh, right, I'll get my little mozzie net up and sort my stuff 99 00:06:54,920 --> 00:06:57,599 and have a little. a little camping faff, 100 00:06:57,599 --> 00:07:00,599 while I organise my things. - Yeah. 101 00:07:04,479 --> 00:07:08,560 Tui and the hunters have offered to take me deep into the Kalahari. 102 00:07:08,560 --> 00:07:10,760 It's still wild out there. 103 00:08:06,200 --> 00:08:09,519 The San have been a crucial part of this eco-system 104 00:08:09,519 --> 00:08:12,519 for tens of thousands of years. 105 00:08:12,519 --> 00:08:15,440 Old Tui and the other trackers have an intimate understanding 106 00:08:15,440 --> 00:08:19,599 of the wilderness and wildlife here, learned over endless generations. 107 00:08:21,120 --> 00:08:22,639 We head out. 108 00:08:22,639 --> 00:08:25,039 First task - hunting for a beetle. 109 00:08:36,360 --> 00:08:42,239 For the San, the Kalahari is a pharmacy, pantry and armoury. 110 00:08:42,239 --> 00:08:45,160 Tui is searching for the larvae of a beetle that lives only under 111 00:08:45,160 --> 00:08:47,239 a certain type of bush. 112 00:08:50,400 --> 00:08:52,920 Do you want me to do more of this? 113 00:08:52,920 --> 00:08:54,520 Yeah? 114 00:08:55,640 --> 00:08:59,239 The larvae contains poison they need for their hunting arrows. 115 00:09:10,640 --> 00:09:13,280 Is that one? 116 00:09:13,280 --> 00:09:14,759 Oh, my gosh. 117 00:09:14,759 --> 00:09:17,680 It looks like the size of a jelly bean, 118 00:09:17,680 --> 00:09:20,599 and it does look as though there's something. 119 00:09:20,599 --> 00:09:23,239 larvae or something inside. 120 00:09:23,239 --> 00:09:25,800 - Yes, see this is the larva. - Yeah, just there. 121 00:09:25,800 --> 00:09:27,879 - Yeah. - Wow! 122 00:09:33,560 --> 00:09:36,280 Historically, the complex San language, 123 00:09:36,280 --> 00:09:40,160 with its dozens of click consonants wasn't written down, 124 00:09:40,160 --> 00:09:43,079 so knowledge and skills are passed down through the generations 125 00:09:43,079 --> 00:09:44,920 by word of mouth. 126 00:09:50,640 --> 00:09:53,479 Tui is keen to teach the younger lads the skills 127 00:09:53,479 --> 00:09:56,839 and the secrets of making deadly poison arrows. 128 00:10:15,040 --> 00:10:19,239 So, Tui, how many of these could kill a human being? 129 00:10:21,160 --> 00:10:22,520 Wow! 130 00:10:55,320 --> 00:10:59,759 You've got to stop to think how the hell did people discover this 131 00:10:59,759 --> 00:11:01,079 in the first place? 132 00:11:14,680 --> 00:11:18,839 And then he's going to squeeze it out like a pimple or something. 133 00:11:18,839 --> 00:11:23,359 To avoid accidentally cutting and poisoning themselves, 134 00:11:23,359 --> 00:11:27,479 the hunters don't apply the toxin directly to the sharp arrowhead. 135 00:11:27,479 --> 00:11:29,359 It's coming out in droplets now. 136 00:11:32,839 --> 00:11:37,200 So, that is now a very potent poison arrow. 137 00:11:43,479 --> 00:11:47,719 It's a gruelling trek across the desert to reach the hunting grounds. 138 00:11:50,280 --> 00:11:53,440 We're getting ready and we're heading out. 139 00:11:55,879 --> 00:11:57,680 All right? 140 00:11:59,160 --> 00:12:01,839 We're off. 141 00:12:01,839 --> 00:12:04,320 The Kalahari is full of wildlife, 142 00:12:04,320 --> 00:12:07,400 everything from small birds to spindly antelope 143 00:12:07,400 --> 00:12:09,359 and burly wildebeest. 144 00:12:09,359 --> 00:12:11,160 But animals here are wary. 145 00:12:11,160 --> 00:12:14,959 They've spent thousands of years dodging human predators 146 00:12:14,959 --> 00:12:19,640 and they know to keep well away from the San villages and San hunters. 147 00:12:19,640 --> 00:12:22,560 So, we need to trek to reach the best hunting grounds 148 00:12:22,560 --> 00:12:24,560 in the burning heat. 149 00:12:24,560 --> 00:12:29,759 Yeah, make no mistake, this is a very harsh environment. 150 00:12:32,680 --> 00:12:35,280 At last, there's signs of animals. 151 00:12:35,280 --> 00:12:38,879 The tracks of a kudu - a large antelope. 152 00:12:41,959 --> 00:12:44,479 So, can we see the tracks? - Yeah, it's this one. 153 00:12:44,479 --> 00:12:47,200 - You can see, it's very distinct here, 154 00:12:47,200 --> 00:12:49,759 but they can see so much more than just the track, 155 00:12:49,759 --> 00:12:51,640 they can see the direction, 156 00:12:51,640 --> 00:12:55,040 the weight and they can tell that it came through here this morning. 157 00:12:57,079 --> 00:12:59,999 With evidence of wildlife all around, 158 00:12:59,999 --> 00:13:02,520 old Tui decides it's time to hunt. 159 00:13:09,719 --> 00:13:13,359 They've decided they're going to put a snare, a little trap, here, 160 00:13:13,359 --> 00:13:15,359 to see if they can catch anything. 161 00:13:15,359 --> 00:13:20,040 Traditional hunting methods used by indigenous wilderness people 162 00:13:20,040 --> 00:13:22,520 generally have a tiny impact on the environment. 163 00:13:25,719 --> 00:13:29,560 They're eating true free-range meat, and only occasionally, 164 00:13:29,560 --> 00:13:31,239 and they're often in competition 165 00:13:31,239 --> 00:13:33,640 with other four-legged apex predators. 166 00:13:36,560 --> 00:13:38,280 - Because it hasn't got nails here, 167 00:13:38,280 --> 00:13:42,320 the cheetah is the one with only have got nails while he's running. 168 00:13:43,920 --> 00:13:46,160 Like it's faster at running. 169 00:13:46,160 --> 00:13:48,127 This was a running cheetah that came through here? 170 00:13:48,151 --> 00:13:48,800 Yeah. 171 00:13:53,040 --> 00:13:56,239 - So, a cheetah came through here 172 00:13:56,239 --> 00:13:59,040 and now they want to know if it made a kill just over here. 173 00:14:03,160 --> 00:14:06,719 So, the guys think a cheetah came through here and it had 174 00:14:06,719 --> 00:14:09,040 spotted a kudu that was coming through there. 175 00:14:10,800 --> 00:14:12,479 Maybe it took it. 176 00:14:17,040 --> 00:14:20,359 You can just imagine the scene playing out here, can't you, 177 00:14:20,359 --> 00:14:22,999 as they recreate it 178 00:14:22,999 --> 00:14:26,999 using their skills and their imagination. 179 00:14:31,680 --> 00:14:32,879 - It's finish. 180 00:14:32,879 --> 00:14:34,680 This is the end of the story. 181 00:14:34,680 --> 00:14:38,680 And a piece of bone. - It's right here. - is from a kudu. 182 00:14:41,160 --> 00:14:42,640 - Where's the rest of the carcass? 183 00:14:42,640 --> 00:14:45,959 - After the kill there is others who also come 184 00:14:45,959 --> 00:14:48,320 and it's why we cannot find the whole body. 185 00:14:48,320 --> 00:14:52,400 - The entire carcass of the animal, 186 00:14:52,400 --> 00:14:54,239 bones and everything, 187 00:14:54,239 --> 00:14:57,119 has been chomped and eaten 188 00:14:57,119 --> 00:14:58,959 not just by the cheetahs, of course, 189 00:14:58,959 --> 00:15:03,440 but other scavengers that have come in and gnawed and nibbled 190 00:15:03,440 --> 00:15:06,280 and destroyed the rest of the animal. 191 00:15:08,239 --> 00:15:10,959 That's all they found of it. 192 00:15:15,920 --> 00:15:17,320 All right. 193 00:15:17,320 --> 00:15:19,400 We're going to go and find somewhere to camp. 194 00:15:19,400 --> 00:15:21,440 All right, let's do it. 195 00:15:33,160 --> 00:15:34,200 - Simon. - Yes. 196 00:15:36,520 --> 00:15:37,999 Fire, OK. 197 00:15:40,800 --> 00:15:42,920 Go on, see if I can. 198 00:15:47,479 --> 00:15:49,320 Team work. 199 00:15:56,719 --> 00:15:58,560 Ready? 200 00:16:13,839 --> 00:16:16,200 It's going. 201 00:16:27,479 --> 00:16:29,079 And that is quite a sunset. 202 00:16:29,079 --> 00:16:31,160 Look at that through the flames. 203 00:16:31,160 --> 00:16:34,079 I wonder if we should film that. 204 00:16:34,079 --> 00:16:36,440 Just a suggestion. 205 00:16:54,839 --> 00:16:57,440 What are you drinking? - Coffee. 206 00:16:57,440 --> 00:17:00,160 - How can you drink coffee at this time? 207 00:17:00,160 --> 00:17:02,200 You will be awake all night. 208 00:18:10,840 --> 00:18:13,640 But this is sounding extremely dangerous. 209 00:18:13,640 --> 00:18:16,799 It's a wonder any of you are here. 210 00:18:16,799 --> 00:18:19,200 I mean, everything out there it seems to be. 211 00:18:19,200 --> 00:18:21,600 to pose some sort of a threat. 212 00:18:55,920 --> 00:18:58,559 We're up at first light. 213 00:18:58,559 --> 00:19:00,799 The hunt is on. 214 00:19:00,799 --> 00:19:03,559 So, the plan is that I'm going to follow them while they hunt, 215 00:19:03,559 --> 00:19:05,999 and I'll carry a little camera 216 00:19:05,999 --> 00:19:10,080 and hopefully then we'll get a more realistic picture of 217 00:19:10,080 --> 00:19:12,999 what they have to do to put meat on the table. 218 00:19:14,160 --> 00:19:16,160 Let's go. 219 00:20:08,080 --> 00:20:10,479 The hunters find a fresh trail. 220 00:20:13,999 --> 00:20:16,120 They've seen something. 221 00:20:39,999 --> 00:20:42,319 They're not using high-powered rifles. 222 00:20:42,319 --> 00:20:44,600 They've just got lightweight bows. 223 00:20:52,360 --> 00:20:54,279 To increase their chances, 224 00:20:54,279 --> 00:20:56,559 the hunters need to get as close as possible. 225 00:21:29,319 --> 00:21:31,120 Ssh! 226 00:21:58,640 --> 00:22:01,319 They'll only know for sure if they've hit the wildebeest 227 00:22:01,319 --> 00:22:03,200 by checking for their arrows. 228 00:22:03,200 --> 00:22:06,440 If they strike the target, the poisoned head breaks off 229 00:22:06,440 --> 00:22:09,400 leaving the shaft on the ground as evidence of a direct hit. 230 00:22:11,039 --> 00:22:13,640 So, this is where the wildebeest were. 231 00:22:41,640 --> 00:22:45,080 They think they've shot arrows successfully into 232 00:22:45,080 --> 00:22:47,680 two or three wildebeest. 233 00:22:47,680 --> 00:22:49,880 The poison they use doesn't work instantly 234 00:22:49,880 --> 00:22:54,640 so they now need to follow signs on the ground and track 235 00:22:54,640 --> 00:22:56,920 and hunt those wildebeest down. 236 00:23:02,719 --> 00:23:05,080 For thousands of years in this cradle of humanity, 237 00:23:05,080 --> 00:23:08,680 this is often how we've tackled large, powerful animals, 238 00:23:08,680 --> 00:23:11,479 pursuing them from a distance until they succumb. 239 00:23:15,120 --> 00:23:18,319 It is strange even after just a short time with them, 240 00:23:18,319 --> 00:23:23,680 you do start to see the landscape in a completely different way, 241 00:23:23,680 --> 00:23:27,279 and obviously I'm like a toddler reading a picture book, 242 00:23:27,279 --> 00:23:30,479 as opposed to them taking in the whole encyclopaedia. 243 00:23:30,479 --> 00:23:35,039 But you do start to get a sense that there is this whole other dimension 244 00:23:35,039 --> 00:23:36,840 to the landscape here. 245 00:23:36,840 --> 00:23:39,360 They can see it, they can read it all. 246 00:23:48,719 --> 00:23:51,999 One of the wildebeest has separated from the herd. 247 00:23:54,080 --> 00:23:57,519 For hour after hour, we track it. 248 00:23:57,519 --> 00:23:59,440 They think it's close. 249 00:24:04,120 --> 00:24:06,559 They can see the wildebeest ahead. 250 00:24:13,200 --> 00:24:15,239 Is that it in the grass? 251 00:24:46,999 --> 00:24:49,039 Man, this is intense. 252 00:24:51,559 --> 00:24:54,319 For now, the wildebeest is still too strong. 253 00:24:54,319 --> 00:24:57,319 They're powerful and dangerous animals. 254 00:24:57,319 --> 00:24:58,920 The hunters have to be patient. 255 00:26:19,999 --> 00:26:21,559 Well, that. 256 00:26:24,200 --> 00:26:27,279 that was a herd of wildebeest 257 00:26:27,279 --> 00:26:29,360 and to creep up on them like that, 258 00:26:29,360 --> 00:26:32,080 that is one of the most primal experiences 259 00:26:32,080 --> 00:26:34,239 I feel like I've ever had. 260 00:26:35,640 --> 00:26:39,440 I'm totally invested in these. 261 00:26:39,440 --> 00:26:43,440 these guys, their community, their hunt for food. 262 00:26:47,200 --> 00:26:50,279 The hunters have been unlucky. 263 00:26:50,279 --> 00:26:52,999 The wounded wildebeest has made it back to the herd. 264 00:26:54,479 --> 00:26:57,840 Well, that is really the end of the hunt for the wildebeest 265 00:26:57,840 --> 00:27:03,120 because the herd have completely scattered the prints all around. 266 00:27:03,120 --> 00:27:08,680 So, the guys have lost the track of the injured wildebeest 267 00:27:08,680 --> 00:27:11,239 they were trying to follow. 268 00:27:11,239 --> 00:27:15,600 So, that is a wildebeest they have lost that is probably going to 269 00:27:15,600 --> 00:27:18,400 be taken by lions and hyenas. 270 00:27:19,880 --> 00:27:23,999 So some of the wildlife out here will benefit from it, 271 00:27:23,999 --> 00:27:26,959 but not their community. 272 00:27:26,959 --> 00:27:31,080 This is a bloody hard way to provide for your family. 273 00:27:47,039 --> 00:27:48,999 Dejected, Tui and the hunters 274 00:27:48,999 --> 00:27:52,759 begin the long journey back to the village. 275 00:27:52,759 --> 00:27:56,519 They have one last chance to avoid returning empty-handed. 276 00:28:04,519 --> 00:28:08,160 A small game bird. What's it called? 277 00:28:08,160 --> 00:28:11,319 - It's called francolin. 278 00:28:11,319 --> 00:28:14,719 - A lot of effort for this little bird. 279 00:28:15,880 --> 00:28:18,360 They are not guaranteed success. 280 00:28:18,360 --> 00:28:22,160 Even the best tracker and hunter 281 00:28:22,160 --> 00:28:27,999 does not have an astonishing hit rate 282 00:28:27,999 --> 00:28:31,400 because this is the wild 283 00:28:31,400 --> 00:28:34,160 and life is unpredictable here. 284 00:28:34,160 --> 00:28:36,680 Meat, protein, does not come easy, 285 00:28:36,680 --> 00:28:41,080 and they eat far less of it than people in higher income countries. 286 00:28:41,080 --> 00:28:43,559 With the odds often against them, 287 00:28:43,559 --> 00:28:46,640 perhaps it's not surprising there aren't many traditional San hunters 288 00:28:46,640 --> 00:28:49,799 left in the Kalahari, but Tui and the trackers believe 289 00:28:49,799 --> 00:28:52,279 hunting is about even more than putting food on the table. 290 00:28:56,640 --> 00:29:00,400 Should we be worried there are so few master trackers left? 291 00:29:41,479 --> 00:29:43,680 Across the wild Kalahari, 292 00:29:43,680 --> 00:29:46,719 it's getting harder for the San to live traditionally. 293 00:29:49,880 --> 00:29:52,319 In some areas they've been banned from hunting. 294 00:29:56,239 --> 00:30:00,039 Many youngsters are being drawn and driven away to towns and cities. 295 00:30:01,920 --> 00:30:05,640 Old Tui could be one of the last great master trackers 296 00:30:05,640 --> 00:30:06,959 of the Kalahari. 297 00:30:06,959 --> 00:30:09,080 Come on, mate. 298 00:30:09,080 --> 00:30:11,400 It's been an honour. 299 00:30:11,400 --> 00:30:14,039 I've loved every moment I've spent in your company. 300 00:30:14,039 --> 00:30:17,200 You've got an infectious joy. - Yeah. 301 00:30:19,559 --> 00:30:21,799 - Oh! 302 00:30:21,799 --> 00:30:23,519 Thank you very much. 303 00:30:23,519 --> 00:30:25,640 It's been an absolute joy. 304 00:30:36,999 --> 00:30:40,160 I'm travelling on across the Kalahari, 305 00:30:40,160 --> 00:30:42,959 from Namibia into Botswana 306 00:30:42,959 --> 00:30:47,160 heading towards the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, 307 00:30:47,160 --> 00:30:49,640 one of the largest protected wildlife reserves 308 00:30:49,640 --> 00:30:52,039 in the whole of Africa. 309 00:30:52,039 --> 00:30:55,519 A vast wilderness of more than 20,000 square miles. 310 00:31:06,080 --> 00:31:08,200 - If you don't have the room then you can come. 311 00:31:08,200 --> 00:31:11,920 - I know, I'm going to be trapped in here, in the luggage compartment! 312 00:31:11,920 --> 00:31:13,759 - Yeah, we need you outside. 313 00:31:14,959 --> 00:31:17,039 - This is Ali and Robson. - One last bag. 314 00:31:17,039 --> 00:31:21,440 - and they're going to be taking me a fair old distance 315 00:31:21,440 --> 00:31:24,440 across the Kalahari. - Yes. 316 00:31:24,440 --> 00:31:26,360 Let's do this, Simon. 317 00:31:26,360 --> 00:31:28,360 - Let's get running. 318 00:31:38,559 --> 00:31:43,920 - So, this track takes us into the very heart of the Kalahari. 319 00:31:43,920 --> 00:31:48,840 We're heading into the CKGR - the Central Kalahari Game Reserve. 320 00:31:55,440 --> 00:31:58,880 The CKGR brims with wildlife. 321 00:32:00,759 --> 00:32:03,920 This part of the Kalahari was turned into a wilderness reserve 322 00:32:03,920 --> 00:32:05,719 in the 1960s. 323 00:32:07,160 --> 00:32:12,120 Originally it was set up to protect the people here, not animals. 324 00:32:12,120 --> 00:32:16,200 The idea was to provide a wild land and sanctuary for the San. 325 00:32:17,880 --> 00:32:21,080 but since the 1990s, that's changed. 326 00:32:29,840 --> 00:32:33,559 This area of the Kalahari has been home to the San 327 00:32:33,559 --> 00:32:35,799 for tens of thousands of years. 328 00:32:35,799 --> 00:32:37,840 But in the last few decades, 329 00:32:37,840 --> 00:32:43,559 the San have been relocated or transferred out of the reserve. 330 00:32:43,559 --> 00:32:47,160 It's been hugely controversial in Botswana, in Southern Africa 331 00:32:47,160 --> 00:32:51,600 and around the world because one of the oldest of human 332 00:32:51,600 --> 00:32:55,880 civilisations has been moved from one of its core historic areas. 333 00:32:58,719 --> 00:33:02,759 The Botswanan government banned hunting and blocked drinking wells. 334 00:33:02,759 --> 00:33:06,799 Many of the San were moved here to a purpose-built settlement 335 00:33:06,799 --> 00:33:08,160 called New Kandwane. 336 00:33:08,160 --> 00:33:11,279 It has roads and small concrete dwellings 337 00:33:11,279 --> 00:33:13,680 and is now home to more than 1,000 people. 338 00:33:13,680 --> 00:33:16,039 Some officials said the San shouldn't be 339 00:33:16,039 --> 00:33:19,479 living in the wilderness without access to schools and health care. 340 00:33:21,279 --> 00:33:24,360 Good morning. - Hey, good morning. 341 00:33:24,360 --> 00:33:25,880 - Sorry. 342 00:33:25,880 --> 00:33:27,519 Where are you off to? 343 00:33:30,440 --> 00:33:31,959 - She's going home. 344 00:33:31,959 --> 00:33:34,479 - Marsao Harasemi was just five years old 345 00:33:34,479 --> 00:33:39,519 when she and her mother Mantisho left the Central Kalahari. 346 00:33:39,519 --> 00:33:41,200 Can I sit here, Mum? 347 00:33:42,759 --> 00:33:45,120 You don't remember the bush. - Yes. 348 00:33:45,120 --> 00:33:46,479 - the way she does, of course. 349 00:33:46,479 --> 00:33:50,519 - I grew up in New Kandwane and she grew up in the Kalahari. 350 00:33:51,719 --> 00:33:53,559 - What were you feelings and emotions 351 00:33:53,559 --> 00:33:57,200 when you were required to leave the Kalahari? 352 00:34:16,279 --> 00:34:19,359 It sounds as if you find quite difficult here? 353 00:34:29,560 --> 00:34:33,239 Can the San people be San 354 00:34:33,239 --> 00:34:37,480 without hunting and tracking in the 355 00:34:54,080 --> 00:35:00,960 Does it feel to you as though the San were seen as less important 356 00:35:00,960 --> 00:35:03,160 than the wildlife in the Kalahari? 357 00:35:09,719 --> 00:35:13,319 Moving out of the wilderness hasn't been easy for the San. 358 00:35:13,319 --> 00:35:15,600 Many adults here are unemployed, 359 00:35:15,600 --> 00:35:18,759 living from subsistence farming and state welfare benefits. 360 00:35:21,120 --> 00:35:24,200 Many claim they've lost their way of life without being given 361 00:35:24,200 --> 00:35:27,239 new purpose and meaning through enough jobs or training. 362 00:35:27,239 --> 00:35:30,319 It's clear the wilderness still holds a powerful allure. 363 00:35:33,200 --> 00:35:36,839 But I am quite struck coming here 364 00:35:36,839 --> 00:35:40,600 by how many of the homesteads 365 00:35:40,600 --> 00:35:47,239 have still got a traditional hut, effectively, built outside them. 366 00:35:47,239 --> 00:35:50,359 - That shows that we are still a cultural people, 367 00:35:50,359 --> 00:35:52,919 and we are still into our culture. 368 00:35:52,919 --> 00:35:56,319 Even if you put a bushman or a San in this house, 369 00:35:56,319 --> 00:35:59,319 he or she is not going to change anyhow. - Yeah. 370 00:35:59,319 --> 00:36:02,680 - The change, it's that structure, 371 00:36:02,680 --> 00:36:06,399 but the heart of a bushman is not easy to just change. 372 00:36:08,919 --> 00:36:12,919 - Marsao doesn't remember life out in the bush. 373 00:36:12,919 --> 00:36:15,080 She's had a formal education 374 00:36:15,080 --> 00:36:18,120 and became one of relatively few San to go to university. 375 00:36:20,239 --> 00:36:24,759 - I got the inspiration right here in New Kandwane 376 00:36:24,759 --> 00:36:27,480 because that's where we met different people here. 377 00:36:27,480 --> 00:36:31,480 We met the teachers, we met the police, the nurses. 378 00:36:31,480 --> 00:36:34,239 That's where we got the inspiration. - Mmm. 379 00:36:34,239 --> 00:36:38,399 Marsao believes there have been advantages to life in New Kandwane. 380 00:36:38,399 --> 00:36:41,759 She's keen for more of the San to have the same access to schools, 381 00:36:41,759 --> 00:36:45,319 jobs and modern health care that the rest of Botswana enjoys. 382 00:36:45,319 --> 00:36:48,359 So, this is the clinic? - Yes. 383 00:36:48,359 --> 00:36:50,477 Yeah, that's a much more modern facility, isn't it? 384 00:36:50,502 --> 00:36:51,200 Yes. 385 00:36:51,200 --> 00:36:54,000 As you can see, that side is there, 386 00:36:54,000 --> 00:36:57,359 the maternity ward, and here's the consultancy area. 387 00:36:58,879 --> 00:37:02,319 I believe, even as San, there is a time that we also have to 388 00:37:02,319 --> 00:37:04,640 adapt to the life of today. 389 00:37:07,000 --> 00:37:11,000 - The Botswanan government has been accused of human rights abuses 390 00:37:11,000 --> 00:37:13,520 for evicting the San, 391 00:37:13,520 --> 00:37:14,919 some campaigners say 392 00:37:14,919 --> 00:37:18,600 because they thought there were diamonds in the Kalahari. 393 00:37:18,600 --> 00:37:20,879 The government denies this 394 00:37:20,879 --> 00:37:24,399 and insists the San were moved to provide them with modern facilities 395 00:37:24,399 --> 00:37:26,839 they can't get out in the bush. 396 00:37:26,839 --> 00:37:30,279 But at times they have also claimed the growing San population 397 00:37:30,279 --> 00:37:34,279 was destroying wildlife in the Central Kalahari 398 00:37:34,279 --> 00:37:38,160 and that conservation should come first. 399 00:37:38,160 --> 00:37:43,520 Whatever the reason or reasons why the San were moved out of the CKGR, 400 00:37:43,520 --> 00:37:49,160 it did spark a wider debate about what are wild places for. 401 00:37:50,279 --> 00:37:56,040 Is a wilderness only a wilderness if there are no humans living there? 402 00:37:56,040 --> 00:38:01,160 Often, indigenous people are absolutely central to a wilderness. 403 00:38:01,160 --> 00:38:05,799 Often, they're the ones who help to shape it, create it, 404 00:38:05,799 --> 00:38:08,640 tend it and protect it. 405 00:38:08,640 --> 00:38:11,160 But here, I think there was a feeling 406 00:38:11,160 --> 00:38:15,480 that to have a proper conservation area, that required the human beings 407 00:38:15,480 --> 00:38:21,160 who'd lived there for thousands of years to be moved out. 408 00:38:25,080 --> 00:38:28,759 However, on my wilderness journeys I've been realising that 409 00:38:28,759 --> 00:38:33,600 humans are actually an integral part of many remote areas. 410 00:38:33,600 --> 00:38:37,279 I'll see that more as I travel further across the Kalahari 411 00:38:37,279 --> 00:38:42,080 towards a giant oasis in this great desert - the Okavango Delta. 412 00:38:46,799 --> 00:38:48,719 Robson grew up in the Kalahari, 413 00:38:48,719 --> 00:38:51,480 absorbing everything there is to know about the landscape 414 00:38:51,480 --> 00:38:53,239 and wildlife around him. 415 00:38:53,239 --> 00:38:56,160 He's like a walking guidebook. 416 00:38:56,160 --> 00:38:57,839 - Aardwolf, you see it? It's here. 417 00:38:57,839 --> 00:38:59,279 Oh, my God! 418 00:38:59,279 --> 00:39:01,399 - It's a hyena. - No, aardwolf. 419 00:39:01,399 --> 00:39:03,239 - Aardwolf? 420 00:39:03,239 --> 00:39:05,960 It's an aardwolf, very rare. 421 00:39:05,960 --> 00:39:08,080 - OK, the head is up there. 422 00:39:08,080 --> 00:39:09,759 You can see two. 423 00:39:09,759 --> 00:39:10,960 So, this is a pair. 424 00:39:10,960 --> 00:39:13,640 You don't often see two. 425 00:39:13,640 --> 00:39:18,040 - The aardwolf is a species of hyena which eats mainly insects. 426 00:39:18,040 --> 00:39:20,520 Its favourite snack is the termite. 427 00:39:20,520 --> 00:39:25,399 A single aardwolf can gobble down 300,000 in a day. 428 00:39:25,399 --> 00:39:29,000 Have you seen these before? - Well, I only have seen them twice. 429 00:39:29,000 --> 00:39:32,680 But that is after 18 years of guiding. This is very rare. 430 00:39:32,680 --> 00:39:36,160 So, I'm so impressed that you get to see two. 431 00:39:36,160 --> 00:39:40,040 And these are often more active at night. 432 00:39:42,319 --> 00:39:44,200 Oh, look, wow! 433 00:39:44,200 --> 00:39:46,040 I am a touch impressed. - Hey! 434 00:39:46,040 --> 00:39:48,239 - It's hard to believe. 435 00:39:48,239 --> 00:39:49,839 Very nice. 436 00:40:04,759 --> 00:40:08,319 - So, this case should be safe out here. 437 00:40:08,319 --> 00:40:11,839 Hyenas are not going to get into that, 438 00:40:11,839 --> 00:40:14,480 but I need to take my shoes inside, cos apparently they like 439 00:40:14,480 --> 00:40:17,560 stealing them from outside tents and having a chew. 440 00:40:35,600 --> 00:40:38,040 I'm sure I can hear lions. 441 00:40:50,640 --> 00:40:53,520 There are lions going past my tent. 442 00:41:01,759 --> 00:41:04,520 - We are going to the water hole. 443 00:41:04,520 --> 00:41:06,560 Thank you. 444 00:41:07,960 --> 00:41:10,000 - Lions. 445 00:41:10,000 --> 00:41:13,040 They're here.at the water hole. 446 00:41:23,520 --> 00:41:25,359 There he is. 447 00:41:26,879 --> 00:41:29,319 The king of the Kalahari. 448 00:41:47,680 --> 00:41:51,359 You feel it so deep within you, 449 00:41:51,359 --> 00:41:54,719 that primal, terrifying, 450 00:41:54,719 --> 00:41:57,399 awe-inspiring roar. 451 00:42:05,839 --> 00:42:09,399 Kalahari lions are magnificent creatures. 452 00:42:09,399 --> 00:42:13,799 The sheer volume of all wildlife here is truly awe-inspiring. 453 00:42:13,799 --> 00:42:16,279 - That's a young jackal. 454 00:42:20,279 --> 00:42:23,879 - Species that face near extinction in other parts of Africa 455 00:42:23,879 --> 00:42:26,799 are still common here in this area of Botswana. 456 00:42:31,319 --> 00:42:33,239 - There are elephants, elephants on the left 457 00:42:33,239 --> 00:42:36,480 and at ten o'clock or 11, there's a herd of elephants. 458 00:42:36,480 --> 00:42:38,879 - There's a herd of elephants! 459 00:42:38,879 --> 00:42:40,480 - It's so unique. 460 00:42:40,480 --> 00:42:43,439 The grassland is amazing. 461 00:42:43,439 --> 00:42:47,319 - There were once 25 million elephants in Africa. 462 00:42:47,319 --> 00:42:50,000 Now that's down to just 400,000 463 00:42:50,000 --> 00:42:53,080 because of habitat loss and ivory poaching. 464 00:42:53,080 --> 00:42:56,759 Across the continent, the population is still shrinking 465 00:42:56,759 --> 00:43:00,520 but Botswana has almost a third of all the African elephants 466 00:43:00,520 --> 00:43:02,520 left on the planet. 467 00:43:02,520 --> 00:43:06,319 Botswana is home to the world's largest population of elephants 468 00:43:06,319 --> 00:43:09,080 and that is such an achievement when you think how poachers have 469 00:43:09,080 --> 00:43:11,680 targeted this animal in recent decades. 470 00:43:23,160 --> 00:43:26,040 But conservation here has come at a cost. 471 00:43:26,040 --> 00:43:29,359 The treatment of the San - truly the people of the wilderness - 472 00:43:29,359 --> 00:43:31,799 is hugely controversial. 473 00:43:31,799 --> 00:43:33,600 And on the edges of the Kalahari, 474 00:43:33,600 --> 00:43:37,839 wildlife is coming into direct conflict with people. 475 00:43:37,839 --> 00:43:43,439 As human populations grow, and areas that were once wild in the Kalahari 476 00:43:43,439 --> 00:43:48,799 become farmland, the frontiers of the wilderness area can become 477 00:43:48,799 --> 00:43:50,839 something of a battleground. 478 00:43:50,839 --> 00:43:53,080 I've left the Central Kalahari 479 00:43:53,080 --> 00:43:57,000 and arrived in one of the frontier areas where human/wildlife conflict 480 00:43:57,000 --> 00:44:00,640 is having dramatic, even tragic consequences. 481 00:44:00,640 --> 00:44:03,560 - How are you? - Very nice to meet you. - Nice to meet you, Simon. 482 00:44:03,560 --> 00:44:05,919 - Ooh, let's go. - All right. 483 00:44:05,919 --> 00:44:08,040 - This is Tata Monsentwa, 484 00:44:08,040 --> 00:44:10,759 a conservationist who's tried to help keep the peace. 485 00:44:12,200 --> 00:44:16,080 - And this is where the river passes when we get floods. 486 00:44:16,080 --> 00:44:20,879 It's the river that separates the community with the wildlife. 487 00:44:20,879 --> 00:44:25,319 - So, the community here is right on the edge of the wild? 488 00:44:25,319 --> 00:44:27,640 - Yeah, true. - The wilderness? - Yeah, true. 489 00:44:27,640 --> 00:44:30,560 It's a village called Kumaka Village. 490 00:44:31,680 --> 00:44:34,279 - Are you from this community? - Yeah, I'm from this community. 491 00:44:34,279 --> 00:44:37,200 - You grew up here? - I grew up here. - Hey! 492 00:44:37,200 --> 00:44:40,560 - And we have cows and we have goats. 493 00:44:40,560 --> 00:44:44,399 - Yeah. - Yeah, and also we do crops too. 494 00:44:44,399 --> 00:44:46,839 It's more like a family, a family thing. 495 00:44:48,160 --> 00:44:49,600 Cows. 496 00:44:49,600 --> 00:44:51,560 There's cows wandering around. 497 00:44:52,960 --> 00:44:56,200 So, Tata's taking me to see a farmer 498 00:44:56,200 --> 00:44:59,239 whose lost some of her crops to elephants. 499 00:45:00,439 --> 00:45:01,919 Are we here? - Yeah. 500 00:45:01,919 --> 00:45:04,160 - We're here. 501 00:45:07,719 --> 00:45:09,640 Oh, bloody hell! 502 00:45:09,640 --> 00:45:11,520 It's a bit barren, isn't it? - Yeah. 503 00:45:16,799 --> 00:45:20,719 - Ancoletsan Bablalefee is typical of many farmers here. 504 00:45:20,719 --> 00:45:23,000 She grows crops to feed her family 505 00:45:23,000 --> 00:45:26,200 and sells what she has left over for just a few pounds a day. 506 00:45:53,040 --> 00:45:55,279 Oh, my goodness. 507 00:46:05,680 --> 00:46:08,520 How do you feel about elephants now? 508 00:46:21,160 --> 00:46:25,520 To protect their crops, farmers have been known to shoot elephants. 509 00:46:25,520 --> 00:46:29,480 But Tata works for the charity Elephants for Africa, 510 00:46:29,480 --> 00:46:32,399 and he tries to stop conflicts from escalating. 511 00:46:32,399 --> 00:46:37,160 He helps farmers like Ancoletsan keep elephants out of their fields 512 00:46:37,160 --> 00:46:40,120 using some pretty unorthodox methods. 513 00:46:40,120 --> 00:46:42,080 He's cooking up a chilli bomb. 514 00:46:54,839 --> 00:46:57,160 That is a lot of chilli. 515 00:47:18,279 --> 00:47:21,319 So, that is now in operation, working? - Yeah. 516 00:47:21,319 --> 00:47:25,200 - And, look, you can see the smoke spreading out across the field. 517 00:47:25,200 --> 00:47:26,520 - Yeah. 518 00:47:26,520 --> 00:47:30,600 - How effective is this at clearing a field of elephants? 519 00:47:30,600 --> 00:47:32,759 - Imagine how you can feel it. 520 00:47:32,759 --> 00:47:36,200 Elephants do feel it ten times more than you do. 521 00:47:36,200 --> 00:47:39,759 So, that's why it is very effective against elephants. 522 00:47:39,759 --> 00:47:43,359 - Local farmers are being encouraged to grow chillies 523 00:47:43,359 --> 00:47:46,680 which produce the same chemical you find in pepper spray. 524 00:47:46,680 --> 00:47:48,439 We're a good 20 metres away and I. 525 00:47:49,640 --> 00:47:52,640 can definitely feel the effects. 526 00:47:52,640 --> 00:47:54,640 And imagine if they've got. 527 00:47:55,759 --> 00:47:57,640 several of them set up around the. 528 00:48:00,279 --> 00:48:02,719 set up around the field. 529 00:48:04,879 --> 00:48:07,839 If I'm an elephant, I'm getting out of here. 530 00:48:10,799 --> 00:48:14,120 The population of Africa is growing rapidly. 531 00:48:14,120 --> 00:48:19,319 It's predicted to almost double by 2050 to around 2.5 billion people. 532 00:48:19,319 --> 00:48:22,919 Providing food for everyone while conserving wildlife 533 00:48:22,919 --> 00:48:25,919 and wilderness will be a huge challenge. 534 00:48:25,919 --> 00:48:28,759 For Tata, it's an issue that's deeply personal. 535 00:48:28,759 --> 00:48:31,680 An amazing scene here 536 00:48:31,680 --> 00:48:35,759 with the elephants moving off as the sun sets. 537 00:48:35,759 --> 00:48:37,480 - Yeah, it's a beautiful view. 538 00:48:37,480 --> 00:48:40,239 - So, we've got within our sight at the moment 539 00:48:40,239 --> 00:48:43,480 two, four, five, six, seven, eight, 540 00:48:43,480 --> 00:48:46,399 nine, ten, 11, I think, elephants. 541 00:48:46,399 --> 00:48:48,120 - Yeah. 542 00:48:50,359 --> 00:48:53,200 - So, they are watching us quite warily, aren't they? 543 00:48:53,200 --> 00:48:56,640 - Yeah, and you have to think of them as wild animals 544 00:48:56,640 --> 00:48:58,319 because they are killing people. 545 00:48:58,319 --> 00:49:01,600 - So it's not just elephants raiding crops, 546 00:49:01,600 --> 00:49:03,680 it's taking lives? - Yeah. 547 00:49:03,680 --> 00:49:08,160 - How many elephant fatalities have you had in your community? 548 00:49:08,160 --> 00:49:10,799 - I would say around. 549 00:49:12,480 --> 00:49:14,759 maybe around four or five. 550 00:49:14,759 --> 00:49:16,600 - Wow! 551 00:49:16,600 --> 00:49:19,839 Elephants can be highly protective of their young, 552 00:49:19,839 --> 00:49:22,279 fighting off predators. 553 00:49:22,279 --> 00:49:25,719 When they're startled, they can see people as a threat, 554 00:49:25,719 --> 00:49:28,279 and they can really lash out. 555 00:49:28,279 --> 00:49:29,839 - My cousin was, er. 556 00:49:29,839 --> 00:49:35,480 He went to see his friends and he unfortunately met an elephant 557 00:49:35,480 --> 00:49:39,960 which. It was unfortunate that he saw it from a short distance. 558 00:49:39,960 --> 00:49:43,600 He tried to run away from it 559 00:49:43,600 --> 00:49:45,200 but because elephant is big, 560 00:49:45,200 --> 00:49:48,960 it was able to see him running away even behind the bushes. 561 00:49:48,960 --> 00:49:52,719 So, it kept chasing him until, you know, 562 00:49:52,719 --> 00:49:55,600 it was able to hit him. 563 00:49:59,600 --> 00:50:01,520 - I'm so sorry. 564 00:50:06,359 --> 00:50:09,839 Tata's cousin died from his injuries. 565 00:50:09,839 --> 00:50:13,279 In Botswana, elephants now kill more people than lions. 566 00:50:14,480 --> 00:50:17,080 I think some people, perhaps many people, 567 00:50:17,080 --> 00:50:20,160 would turn against elephants as a result. 568 00:50:20,160 --> 00:50:23,680 - Yeah, they will. - But you don't? 569 00:50:23,680 --> 00:50:27,960 - Er, I don't because it's a wildlife area. 570 00:50:27,960 --> 00:50:30,560 You don't want to see elephants killing people, 571 00:50:30,560 --> 00:50:33,600 but, you know, we can't push them away, 572 00:50:33,600 --> 00:50:37,680 so it's more of finding a way to co-exist with them. 573 00:51:01,080 --> 00:51:04,640 - I've travelled for weeks through this dry, parched wilderness 574 00:51:04,640 --> 00:51:07,040 and I've hardly seen a drop of water. 575 00:51:07,040 --> 00:51:09,080 But I hope that's about to change. 576 00:51:11,600 --> 00:51:16,640 I'm leaving the arid areas of the Kalahari behind now 577 00:51:16,640 --> 00:51:20,799 and heading towards the end of this part of my journey. 578 00:51:20,799 --> 00:51:23,799 We're on our way towards the Okavango Delta. 579 00:51:27,239 --> 00:51:30,799 The Okavango Delta is the largest freshwater wetland 580 00:51:30,799 --> 00:51:32,600 in Southern Africa. 581 00:51:32,600 --> 00:51:35,399 It's home to one of the most spectacular concentrations of 582 00:51:35,399 --> 00:51:37,319 wildlife on Earth. 583 00:51:37,319 --> 00:51:40,399 That draws in visitors to upmarket safari lodges, 584 00:51:40,399 --> 00:51:44,960 creating a whole tourism industry in this area of the Kalahari 585 00:51:44,960 --> 00:51:47,439 that I'm keen to understand. 586 00:51:50,439 --> 00:51:52,000 Well, we've arrived. 587 00:51:53,719 --> 00:51:57,080 Oh! somewhere very fancy. 588 00:51:58,120 --> 00:52:00,000 My goodness. 589 00:52:00,000 --> 00:52:01,839 All right, well, I'm knackered. 590 00:52:01,839 --> 00:52:06,239 I'm going to get a good night's sleep tonight and I'll have a wash. 591 00:52:07,560 --> 00:52:09,960 I will see you in the morning. 592 00:52:19,600 --> 00:52:21,600 Ah, flipping heck. 593 00:52:22,839 --> 00:52:26,399 So, this is the Okavango Delta. 594 00:52:28,640 --> 00:52:31,919 It's known as the Jewel of the Kalahari. 595 00:52:35,279 --> 00:52:38,560 Each year when the Kalahari is at its driest, 596 00:52:38,560 --> 00:52:42,000 rain in the north flows downriver and empties into a huge 597 00:52:42,000 --> 00:52:45,879 inland delta, transforming this part of the Kalahari Desert 598 00:52:45,879 --> 00:52:50,759 into a lush, waterlogged oasis packed with wildlife. 599 00:52:50,759 --> 00:52:54,719 It's been described as the closest thing to Eden left on the planet. 600 00:52:57,640 --> 00:53:00,640 It's like a vast shallow bathtub 601 00:53:00,640 --> 00:53:04,759 into which a river flows, and then wildlife comes 602 00:53:04,759 --> 00:53:07,960 from across Southern Africa to drink and eat here, 603 00:53:07,960 --> 00:53:13,120 which means it is a destination for seriously high-end tourism. 604 00:53:13,120 --> 00:53:17,560 Some lodges in the Delta charge more than ยฃ1,000 a night 605 00:53:17,560 --> 00:53:19,160 for a room. Ooh! 606 00:53:19,160 --> 00:53:22,680 The tourism industry can be hugely damaging, but here, 607 00:53:22,680 --> 00:53:25,359 like in so many other wild areas I've visited, 608 00:53:25,359 --> 00:53:27,879 it provides thousands of jobs. 609 00:53:27,879 --> 00:53:31,560 Rather than clearing land for farming or poaching, 610 00:53:31,560 --> 00:53:35,919 tourism can give locals an economic incentive to look after landscapes 611 00:53:35,919 --> 00:53:37,680 and wildlife. 612 00:53:39,200 --> 00:53:42,600 Unless we're all going to start donating billions to provide jobs 613 00:53:42,600 --> 00:53:44,919 and preserve wildernesses, 614 00:53:44,919 --> 00:53:47,919 perhaps responsible tourism has a crucial role. 615 00:53:49,439 --> 00:53:51,160 Is it stable? 616 00:53:51,160 --> 00:53:52,600 - Got it. - Stable enough. 617 00:53:52,600 --> 00:53:56,319 The tourism industry has helped make Botswana one of the richer countries 618 00:53:56,319 --> 00:53:59,719 in Africa and helps preserve the wildlife of the Kalahari. 619 00:54:01,600 --> 00:54:04,879 Koki Makodi is a Botswanan campaigner and conservationist. 620 00:54:06,200 --> 00:54:08,879 - This is called a macuro. 621 00:54:08,879 --> 00:54:11,040 It's actually a dugout canoe 622 00:54:11,040 --> 00:54:14,520 which, traditionally, the people of the Okavango Delta have relied on 623 00:54:14,520 --> 00:54:17,319 as a mode of transport to get from island to island. 624 00:54:18,640 --> 00:54:21,839 - This is exceptional. 625 00:54:21,839 --> 00:54:27,120 Here we are quietly, without an engine, 626 00:54:27,120 --> 00:54:31,839 gently sliding towards two giant elephants close to us 627 00:54:31,839 --> 00:54:33,919 and another three down there. 628 00:54:33,919 --> 00:54:36,439 We've got more in the bushes here. 629 00:54:36,439 --> 00:54:39,759 - I think we're very, very blessed, Simon, to be able to witness this 630 00:54:39,759 --> 00:54:41,759 in our lifetimes. 631 00:54:48,879 --> 00:54:52,919 - One of Koki's concerns is that tourism here hasn't done enough 632 00:54:52,919 --> 00:54:54,279 for ordinary people 633 00:54:54,279 --> 00:54:57,879 and that the indigenous people of the Kalahari have often been 634 00:54:57,879 --> 00:55:00,960 marginalised in favour of the wildlife and the tourists. 635 00:55:02,279 --> 00:55:07,319 How can we protect wild places, wildernesses, 636 00:55:07,319 --> 00:55:11,399 whilst still providing jobs, opportunities 637 00:55:11,399 --> 00:55:13,439 for the people who live there 638 00:55:13,439 --> 00:55:16,399 and are a fundamental part of those places? 639 00:55:16,399 --> 00:55:18,399 - I think tourism could do a better job. 640 00:55:18,399 --> 00:55:21,279 When you have profit to make, 641 00:55:21,279 --> 00:55:23,960 you don't want that profit to be challenged 642 00:55:23,960 --> 00:55:29,000 and it served certain operators to enter this business at a time 643 00:55:29,000 --> 00:55:32,799 when the people surrounding the old indigenous peoples of that area 644 00:55:32,799 --> 00:55:35,319 were not highly educated. 645 00:55:35,319 --> 00:55:39,239 So, it benefitted them in that they could pay cheaper wages. 646 00:55:39,239 --> 00:55:43,640 - So, understanding that indigenous people 647 00:55:43,640 --> 00:55:46,560 who have lived in a place, for sometimes thousands, 648 00:55:46,560 --> 00:55:48,799 tens of thousands of years, they know stuff. 649 00:55:48,799 --> 00:55:52,080 - Yes, and they need to be appreciated for knowing that stuff. 650 00:55:52,080 --> 00:55:56,399 I mean, we've gone long enough without recognising 651 00:55:56,399 --> 00:56:00,680 the importance of the people 652 00:56:00,680 --> 00:56:04,160 who have kept the balance in these spaces, 653 00:56:04,160 --> 00:56:06,640 and we need to listen to them. 654 00:56:08,839 --> 00:56:11,960 - Don Joseph comes from a village where many people make 655 00:56:11,960 --> 00:56:14,799 a living punting travellers around the Okavango Delta. 656 00:56:16,759 --> 00:56:19,680 They've tried to build their business by working independently 657 00:56:19,680 --> 00:56:21,759 from big tour operators. 658 00:56:21,759 --> 00:56:25,080 - I'm part of the Poler's Association. 659 00:56:25,080 --> 00:56:29,160 - So, I've been doing it, like, three years now. 660 00:56:29,160 --> 00:56:31,040 Are you on social media, Don? 661 00:56:31,040 --> 00:56:34,879 - Yes. - And so you get direct bookings that way? 662 00:56:34,879 --> 00:56:38,120 - Yes. You just book to the community. 663 00:56:38,120 --> 00:56:41,399 They will pay those people with them callers. 664 00:56:41,399 --> 00:56:44,279 - So, you're earning the money directly? 665 00:56:44,279 --> 00:56:47,919 It's not going through a tour operator in Europe or somewhere? 666 00:56:47,919 --> 00:56:50,279 - No, it's just going to the community. 667 00:56:50,279 --> 00:56:53,960 - That sounds pretty vital, that local people can have local companies 668 00:56:53,960 --> 00:56:57,080 and earn direct from tourism or any other. 669 00:56:57,080 --> 00:57:00,160 - Absolutely. - .business. - Absolutely. 670 00:57:00,160 --> 00:57:04,239 It's proving to be possible, but we need to band together to 671 00:57:04,239 --> 00:57:08,520 kind of support one another to make sure that it is long lasting. 672 00:57:08,520 --> 00:57:12,080 - What Koki is campaigning for is a system that could really help 673 00:57:12,080 --> 00:57:16,040 to preserve wilderness areas around the world. 674 00:57:16,040 --> 00:57:18,919 Wildernesses aren't empty. 675 00:57:18,919 --> 00:57:25,279 They are full of life and often very full of people as well. 676 00:57:25,279 --> 00:57:28,520 I think what I've learnt on this journey is that if we are going 677 00:57:28,520 --> 00:57:32,480 to protect this wilderness - the Kalahari - 678 00:57:32,480 --> 00:57:35,960 we're all going to have to get better at protecting 679 00:57:35,960 --> 00:57:41,359 and looking after, educating and engaging with the people 680 00:57:41,359 --> 00:57:43,600 who live here and know it best. 681 00:57:45,439 --> 00:57:49,319 Our remaining great wilderness areas face many threats. 682 00:57:51,040 --> 00:57:54,680 On my journeys I've seen how climate change is disrupting 683 00:57:54,680 --> 00:57:57,799 these eco-systems on which we all depend. 684 00:57:59,960 --> 00:58:04,600 Remote areas are also being targeted by ranchers, loggers and miners. 685 00:58:05,839 --> 00:58:09,399 Our increasing human population is encroaching on the wilderness. 686 00:58:11,399 --> 00:58:15,200 Surely, these wild areas are worth protecting. 687 00:58:21,680 --> 00:58:25,759 They're home to our most spectacular and important wildlife. 688 00:58:28,359 --> 00:58:30,600 and we need them. 689 00:58:30,600 --> 00:58:32,319 We're not separate from nature. 690 00:58:32,319 --> 00:58:33,680 Whoa! 691 00:58:33,680 --> 00:58:36,000 we're part of it. 692 00:58:36,000 --> 00:58:39,359 We need to know wilderness exists 693 00:58:39,359 --> 00:58:41,399 and we need it in our lives. 694 00:58:43,359 --> 00:58:46,600 because living on an extraordinary, wild planet. 695 00:58:48,839 --> 00:58:52,040 is part of what makes us truly human. 696 00:58:54,239 --> 00:58:56,399 It's been an honour. 56180

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