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We live on a crowded planet.
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But there are still vast areas.
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where nature has the upper hand.
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It looks like another planet.
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I'm heading to the
last great wildernesses.
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I'll try to cross four of
these rugged landscapes.
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Oh, my God!
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on my toughest journeys yet.
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I have to be honest - things
are not going brilliantly.
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A bit of a medical situation.
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Help is a long way away.
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00:00:54,200 --> 00:00:56,559
- Well done.
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- I want to meet the people for
whom the wilderness is home.
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Testicles for breakfast,
lunch and dinner.
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00:01:05,080 --> 00:01:07,999
to see how they
live alongside nature.
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Whoa!
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I can stay down there
for a minute or so.
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He's still down there
now walking around.
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And in this critical
time for our world.
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Huge carcasses of great trees.
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seek out the rare and majestic
creatures that still survive.
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My heart is racing.
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in some of the most
hostile environments.
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Are you OK, Jonathan?
- Yeah, yeah.
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- and the remotest regions.
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Bloody hell!
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of our wild planet.
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Ssh!
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- Coo-coo!
- Coo!
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Big cats roaming free.
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This surely is the absolute
definition of a real wilderness.
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I'm travelling across
the Kalahari Desert,
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a huge area of wilderness that
stretches across Southern Africa.
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It's one of the wildest
places on Earth.
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I'm heading into a
very remote region.
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For mile after mile here,
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there's just scrub,
shrub and dusty dry land.
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Everything here is
growing in the largest
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basin of sand on planet Earth.
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At points here, the sand
sinks 1,000 metres deep.
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00:02:48,120 --> 00:02:50,279
But despite the harsh terrain,
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the Kalahari is
bursting with life.
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- Simon, close, elephant.
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- Elephants!
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Wow!
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00:03:09,560 --> 00:03:12,839
Here in the Kalahari,
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00:03:12,839 --> 00:03:16,119
in this very dry
part of the continent,
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there are still giant beasts
walking through the sandy desert.
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A vast wilderness the size
of Germany, long eulogised
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00:03:29,919 --> 00:03:33,720
and romanticised, the
Kalahari is a semi-desert
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where seasonal rains ensure
there's now food for wildlife to thrive.
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00:03:47,200 --> 00:03:50,279
But the Kalahari is just
as famous for its people.
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00:03:50,279 --> 00:03:52,279
I'm travelling with Darm Debai.
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00:03:52,279 --> 00:03:56,399
He's one of the San - the
indigenous people of the Kalahari.
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There's a jackal.
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- Cairee.
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In our language
we call it cairee.
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Cairee. Say cairee.
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00:04:06,440 --> 00:04:08,720
- One more time.
- Cairee.
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00:04:08,720 --> 00:04:12,359
- Airee.
- Cairee.
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00:04:12,359 --> 00:04:14,440
- I can't do it, Darm, I can't!
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The San have been in the Kalahari
for tens of thousands of years
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00:04:22,519 --> 00:04:25,320
as trackers, hunters
and gatherers,
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famous for their
extraordinary survival skills.
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Humans have always live here
shaping and protecting the Kalahari
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00:04:32,880 --> 00:04:36,120
as much as any
wilderness on the planet.
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00:04:37,320 --> 00:04:40,240
The Kalahari sits in the
middle of Southern Africa,
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00:04:40,240 --> 00:04:42,800
straddling six countries.
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00:04:42,800 --> 00:04:44,880
I'm travelling
through its dry centre
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00:04:44,880 --> 00:04:48,760
heading for the spectacular
wetlands of the Okavango Delta.
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00:04:51,159 --> 00:04:54,519
I'm starting in the north-west,
in Namibia, on my way to
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00:04:54,519 --> 00:04:56,959
a traditional San village.
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00:04:56,959 --> 00:05:00,359
Then I'll journey east into
Botswana, travelling through
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00:05:00,359 --> 00:05:03,800
the vast emptiness of the
Central Kalahari Game Reserve.
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00:05:03,800 --> 00:05:06,479
I'm hoping to end my
journey at one of the greatest
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00:05:06,479 --> 00:05:09,359
concentrations of
wildlife on this continent.
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00:05:15,360 --> 00:05:19,560
I'm heading to a remote village
that is home to some of the last
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00:05:19,560 --> 00:05:24,000
great wildlife
trackers and hunters
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in any wilderness on the planet.
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00:05:27,839 --> 00:05:33,120
Denui is a small San village in
Namibia's Nyae Nyae Conservancy.
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00:05:33,120 --> 00:05:35,920
People here live mostly
in traditional San dwellings
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made of wood and clay.
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00:05:38,279 --> 00:05:41,399
They have some
livestock and crops,
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00:05:41,399 --> 00:05:45,159
but, far from any town,
they also hunt to survive.
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00:05:48,839 --> 00:05:51,599
Darm has brought me
to meet an old friend.
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00:06:01,359 --> 00:06:03,320
This is old Tui?
- Yeah!
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00:06:04,760 --> 00:06:06,479
But he's still young.
88
00:06:06,479 --> 00:06:08,200
- He's still young.
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00:06:08,200 --> 00:06:10,479
You're not that old!
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00:06:12,639 --> 00:06:15,000
Tomorrow we'll
head into the bush.
91
00:06:15,000 --> 00:06:18,000
But now the sun's going
down, it's time to rest.
92
00:06:23,000 --> 00:06:25,240
Oh, my goodness.
93
00:06:31,839 --> 00:06:33,279
I'm all right, thank you.
94
00:06:33,279 --> 00:06:34,800
Oh, my God.
95
00:06:34,800 --> 00:06:37,159
It's like being in the forest.
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00:06:37,159 --> 00:06:38,440
Look at this.
97
00:06:38,440 --> 00:06:40,959
It's like a work of art.
98
00:06:50,279 --> 00:06:54,920
Oh, right, I'll get my little
mozzie net up and sort my stuff
99
00:06:54,920 --> 00:06:57,599
and have a little.
a little camping faff,
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00:06:57,599 --> 00:07:00,599
while I organise my things.
- Yeah.
101
00:07:04,479 --> 00:07:08,560
Tui and the hunters have offered
to take me deep into the Kalahari.
102
00:07:08,560 --> 00:07:10,760
It's still wild out there.
103
00:08:06,200 --> 00:08:09,519
The San have been a
crucial part of this eco-system
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00:08:09,519 --> 00:08:12,519
for tens of thousands of years.
105
00:08:12,519 --> 00:08:15,440
Old Tui and the other trackers
have an intimate understanding
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00:08:15,440 --> 00:08:19,599
of the wilderness and wildlife here,
learned over endless generations.
107
00:08:21,120 --> 00:08:22,639
We head out.
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00:08:22,639 --> 00:08:25,039
First task -
hunting for a beetle.
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00:08:36,360 --> 00:08:42,239
For the San, the Kalahari is a
pharmacy, pantry and armoury.
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00:08:42,239 --> 00:08:45,160
Tui is searching for the larvae
of a beetle that lives only under
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00:08:45,160 --> 00:08:47,239
a certain type of bush.
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00:08:50,400 --> 00:08:52,920
Do you want me
to do more of this?
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Yeah?
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The larvae contains poison
they need for their hunting arrows.
115
00:09:10,640 --> 00:09:13,280
Is that one?
116
00:09:13,280 --> 00:09:14,759
Oh, my gosh.
117
00:09:14,759 --> 00:09:17,680
It looks like the
size of a jelly bean,
118
00:09:17,680 --> 00:09:20,599
and it does look as
though there's something.
119
00:09:20,599 --> 00:09:23,239
larvae or something inside.
120
00:09:23,239 --> 00:09:25,800
- Yes, see this is the larva.
- Yeah, just there.
121
00:09:25,800 --> 00:09:27,879
- Yeah.
- Wow!
122
00:09:33,560 --> 00:09:36,280
Historically, the
complex San language,
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00:09:36,280 --> 00:09:40,160
with its dozens of click
consonants wasn't written down,
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00:09:40,160 --> 00:09:43,079
so knowledge and skills are
passed down through the generations
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00:09:43,079 --> 00:09:44,920
by word of mouth.
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00:09:50,640 --> 00:09:53,479
Tui is keen to teach the
younger lads the skills
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00:09:53,479 --> 00:09:56,839
and the secrets of making
deadly poison arrows.
128
00:10:15,040 --> 00:10:19,239
So, Tui, how many of these
could kill a human being?
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00:10:21,160 --> 00:10:22,520
Wow!
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00:10:55,320 --> 00:10:59,759
You've got to stop to think how
the hell did people discover this
131
00:10:59,759 --> 00:11:01,079
in the first place?
132
00:11:14,680 --> 00:11:18,839
And then he's going to squeeze
it out like a pimple or something.
133
00:11:18,839 --> 00:11:23,359
To avoid accidentally cutting
and poisoning themselves,
134
00:11:23,359 --> 00:11:27,479
the hunters don't apply the toxin
directly to the sharp arrowhead.
135
00:11:27,479 --> 00:11:29,359
It's coming out in droplets now.
136
00:11:32,839 --> 00:11:37,200
So, that is now a very
potent poison arrow.
137
00:11:43,479 --> 00:11:47,719
It's a gruelling trek across the
desert to reach the hunting grounds.
138
00:11:50,280 --> 00:11:53,440
We're getting ready
and we're heading out.
139
00:11:55,879 --> 00:11:57,680
All right?
140
00:11:59,160 --> 00:12:01,839
We're off.
141
00:12:01,839 --> 00:12:04,320
The Kalahari
is full of wildlife,
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00:12:04,320 --> 00:12:07,400
everything from small
birds to spindly antelope
143
00:12:07,400 --> 00:12:09,359
and burly wildebeest.
144
00:12:09,359 --> 00:12:11,160
But animals here are wary.
145
00:12:11,160 --> 00:12:14,959
They've spent thousands of
years dodging human predators
146
00:12:14,959 --> 00:12:19,640
and they know to keep well away
from the San villages and San hunters.
147
00:12:19,640 --> 00:12:22,560
So, we need to trek to reach
the best hunting grounds
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in the burning heat.
149
00:12:24,560 --> 00:12:29,759
Yeah, make no mistake, this
is a very harsh environment.
150
00:12:32,680 --> 00:12:35,280
At last, there's
signs of animals.
151
00:12:35,280 --> 00:12:38,879
The tracks of a kudu
- a large antelope.
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00:12:41,959 --> 00:12:44,479
So, can we see the tracks?
- Yeah, it's this one.
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- You can see, it's
very distinct here,
154
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but they can see so much
more than just the track,
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they can see the direction,
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00:12:51,640 --> 00:12:55,040
the weight and they can tell that
it came through here this morning.
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00:12:57,079 --> 00:12:59,999
With evidence of
wildlife all around,
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old Tui decides
it's time to hunt.
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00:13:09,719 --> 00:13:13,359
They've decided they're going
to put a snare, a little trap, here,
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to see if they can
catch anything.
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00:13:15,359 --> 00:13:20,040
Traditional hunting methods used
by indigenous wilderness people
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generally have a tiny
impact on the environment.
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They're eating true free-range
meat, and only occasionally,
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and they're often in competition
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with other four-legged
apex predators.
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- Because it hasn't
got nails here,
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the cheetah is the one with only
have got nails while he's running.
168
00:13:43,920 --> 00:13:46,160
Like it's faster at running.
169
00:13:46,160 --> 00:13:48,127
This was a running cheetah
that came through here?
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00:13:48,151 --> 00:13:48,800
Yeah.
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00:13:53,040 --> 00:13:56,239
- So, a cheetah
came through here
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and now they want to know
if it made a kill just over here.
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00:14:03,160 --> 00:14:06,719
So, the guys think a cheetah
came through here and it had
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00:14:06,719 --> 00:14:09,040
spotted a kudu that was
coming through there.
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Maybe it took it.
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You can just imagine the
scene playing out here, can't you,
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00:14:20,359 --> 00:14:22,999
as they recreate it
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00:14:22,999 --> 00:14:26,999
using their skills
and their imagination.
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00:14:31,680 --> 00:14:32,879
- It's finish.
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00:14:32,879 --> 00:14:34,680
This is the end of the story.
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And a piece of bone.
- It's right here. - is from a kudu.
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- Where's the rest
of the carcass?
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00:14:42,640 --> 00:14:45,959
- After the kill there is
others who also come
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and it's why we cannot
find the whole body.
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00:14:48,320 --> 00:14:52,400
- The entire carcass
of the animal,
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00:14:52,400 --> 00:14:54,239
bones and everything,
187
00:14:54,239 --> 00:14:57,119
has been chomped and eaten
188
00:14:57,119 --> 00:14:58,959
not just by the
cheetahs, of course,
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00:14:58,959 --> 00:15:03,440
but other scavengers that have
come in and gnawed and nibbled
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00:15:03,440 --> 00:15:06,280
and destroyed the
rest of the animal.
191
00:15:08,239 --> 00:15:10,959
That's all they found of it.
192
00:15:15,920 --> 00:15:17,320
All right.
193
00:15:17,320 --> 00:15:19,400
We're going to go and
find somewhere to camp.
194
00:15:19,400 --> 00:15:21,440
All right, let's do it.
195
00:15:33,160 --> 00:15:34,200
- Simon.
- Yes.
196
00:15:36,520 --> 00:15:37,999
Fire, OK.
197
00:15:40,800 --> 00:15:42,920
Go on, see if I can.
198
00:15:47,479 --> 00:15:49,320
Team work.
199
00:15:56,719 --> 00:15:58,560
Ready?
200
00:16:13,839 --> 00:16:16,200
It's going.
201
00:16:27,479 --> 00:16:29,079
And that is quite a sunset.
202
00:16:29,079 --> 00:16:31,160
Look at that through the flames.
203
00:16:31,160 --> 00:16:34,079
I wonder if we should film that.
204
00:16:34,079 --> 00:16:36,440
Just a suggestion.
205
00:16:54,839 --> 00:16:57,440
What are you drinking?
- Coffee.
206
00:16:57,440 --> 00:17:00,160
- How can you drink
coffee at this time?
207
00:17:00,160 --> 00:17:02,200
You will be awake all night.
208
00:18:10,840 --> 00:18:13,640
But this is sounding
extremely dangerous.
209
00:18:13,640 --> 00:18:16,799
It's a wonder any
of you are here.
210
00:18:16,799 --> 00:18:19,200
I mean, everything
out there it seems to be.
211
00:18:19,200 --> 00:18:21,600
to pose some sort of a threat.
212
00:18:55,920 --> 00:18:58,559
We're up at first light.
213
00:18:58,559 --> 00:19:00,799
The hunt is on.
214
00:19:00,799 --> 00:19:03,559
So, the plan is that I'm going
to follow them while they hunt,
215
00:19:03,559 --> 00:19:05,999
and I'll carry a little camera
216
00:19:05,999 --> 00:19:10,080
and hopefully then we'll
get a more realistic picture of
217
00:19:10,080 --> 00:19:12,999
what they have to do
to put meat on the table.
218
00:19:14,160 --> 00:19:16,160
Let's go.
219
00:20:08,080 --> 00:20:10,479
The hunters find a fresh trail.
220
00:20:13,999 --> 00:20:16,120
They've seen something.
221
00:20:39,999 --> 00:20:42,319
They're not using
high-powered rifles.
222
00:20:42,319 --> 00:20:44,600
They've just got
lightweight bows.
223
00:20:52,360 --> 00:20:54,279
To increase their chances,
224
00:20:54,279 --> 00:20:56,559
the hunters need to
get as close as possible.
225
00:21:29,319 --> 00:21:31,120
Ssh!
226
00:21:58,640 --> 00:22:01,319
They'll only know for sure
if they've hit the wildebeest
227
00:22:01,319 --> 00:22:03,200
by checking for their arrows.
228
00:22:03,200 --> 00:22:06,440
If they strike the target,
the poisoned head breaks off
229
00:22:06,440 --> 00:22:09,400
leaving the shaft on the
ground as evidence of a direct hit.
230
00:22:11,039 --> 00:22:13,640
So, this is where
the wildebeest were.
231
00:22:41,640 --> 00:22:45,080
They think they've shot
arrows successfully into
232
00:22:45,080 --> 00:22:47,680
two or three wildebeest.
233
00:22:47,680 --> 00:22:49,880
The poison they use
doesn't work instantly
234
00:22:49,880 --> 00:22:54,640
so they now need to follow
signs on the ground and track
235
00:22:54,640 --> 00:22:56,920
and hunt those wildebeest down.
236
00:23:02,719 --> 00:23:05,080
For thousands of years
in this cradle of humanity,
237
00:23:05,080 --> 00:23:08,680
this is often how we've
tackled large, powerful animals,
238
00:23:08,680 --> 00:23:11,479
pursuing them from a
distance until they succumb.
239
00:23:15,120 --> 00:23:18,319
It is strange even after
just a short time with them,
240
00:23:18,319 --> 00:23:23,680
you do start to see the landscape
in a completely different way,
241
00:23:23,680 --> 00:23:27,279
and obviously I'm like a
toddler reading a picture book,
242
00:23:27,279 --> 00:23:30,479
as opposed to them taking
in the whole encyclopaedia.
243
00:23:30,479 --> 00:23:35,039
But you do start to get a sense that
there is this whole other dimension
244
00:23:35,039 --> 00:23:36,840
to the landscape here.
245
00:23:36,840 --> 00:23:39,360
They can see it,
they can read it all.
246
00:23:48,719 --> 00:23:51,999
One of the wildebeest has
separated from the herd.
247
00:23:54,080 --> 00:23:57,519
For hour after
hour, we track it.
248
00:23:57,519 --> 00:23:59,440
They think it's close.
249
00:24:04,120 --> 00:24:06,559
They can see the
wildebeest ahead.
250
00:24:13,200 --> 00:24:15,239
Is that it in the grass?
251
00:24:46,999 --> 00:24:49,039
Man, this is intense.
252
00:24:51,559 --> 00:24:54,319
For now, the wildebeest
is still too strong.
253
00:24:54,319 --> 00:24:57,319
They're powerful and
dangerous animals.
254
00:24:57,319 --> 00:24:58,920
The hunters have to be patient.
255
00:26:19,999 --> 00:26:21,559
Well, that.
256
00:26:24,200 --> 00:26:27,279
that was a herd of wildebeest
257
00:26:27,279 --> 00:26:29,360
and to creep up
on them like that,
258
00:26:29,360 --> 00:26:32,080
that is one of the most
primal experiences
259
00:26:32,080 --> 00:26:34,239
I feel like I've ever had.
260
00:26:35,640 --> 00:26:39,440
I'm totally invested in these.
261
00:26:39,440 --> 00:26:43,440
these guys, their
community, their hunt for food.
262
00:26:47,200 --> 00:26:50,279
The hunters have been unlucky.
263
00:26:50,279 --> 00:26:52,999
The wounded wildebeest
has made it back to the herd.
264
00:26:54,479 --> 00:26:57,840
Well, that is really the end
of the hunt for the wildebeest
265
00:26:57,840 --> 00:27:03,120
because the herd have completely
scattered the prints all around.
266
00:27:03,120 --> 00:27:08,680
So, the guys have lost the
track of the injured wildebeest
267
00:27:08,680 --> 00:27:11,239
they were trying to follow.
268
00:27:11,239 --> 00:27:15,600
So, that is a wildebeest they
have lost that is probably going to
269
00:27:15,600 --> 00:27:18,400
be taken by lions and hyenas.
270
00:27:19,880 --> 00:27:23,999
So some of the wildlife
out here will benefit from it,
271
00:27:23,999 --> 00:27:26,959
but not their community.
272
00:27:26,959 --> 00:27:31,080
This is a bloody hard way
to provide for your family.
273
00:27:47,039 --> 00:27:48,999
Dejected, Tui and the hunters
274
00:27:48,999 --> 00:27:52,759
begin the long journey
back to the village.
275
00:27:52,759 --> 00:27:56,519
They have one last chance to
avoid returning empty-handed.
276
00:28:04,519 --> 00:28:08,160
A small game bird.
What's it called?
277
00:28:08,160 --> 00:28:11,319
- It's called francolin.
278
00:28:11,319 --> 00:28:14,719
- A lot of effort
for this little bird.
279
00:28:15,880 --> 00:28:18,360
They are not guaranteed success.
280
00:28:18,360 --> 00:28:22,160
Even the best tracker and hunter
281
00:28:22,160 --> 00:28:27,999
does not have an
astonishing hit rate
282
00:28:27,999 --> 00:28:31,400
because this is the wild
283
00:28:31,400 --> 00:28:34,160
and life is unpredictable here.
284
00:28:34,160 --> 00:28:36,680
Meat, protein,
does not come easy,
285
00:28:36,680 --> 00:28:41,080
and they eat far less of it than
people in higher income countries.
286
00:28:41,080 --> 00:28:43,559
With the odds
often against them,
287
00:28:43,559 --> 00:28:46,640
perhaps it's not surprising there
aren't many traditional San hunters
288
00:28:46,640 --> 00:28:49,799
left in the Kalahari, but
Tui and the trackers believe
289
00:28:49,799 --> 00:28:52,279
hunting is about even more
than putting food on the table.
290
00:28:56,640 --> 00:29:00,400
Should we be worried there
are so few master trackers left?
291
00:29:41,479 --> 00:29:43,680
Across the wild Kalahari,
292
00:29:43,680 --> 00:29:46,719
it's getting harder for the
San to live traditionally.
293
00:29:49,880 --> 00:29:52,319
In some areas they've
been banned from hunting.
294
00:29:56,239 --> 00:30:00,039
Many youngsters are being drawn
and driven away to towns and cities.
295
00:30:01,920 --> 00:30:05,640
Old Tui could be one of
the last great master trackers
296
00:30:05,640 --> 00:30:06,959
of the Kalahari.
297
00:30:06,959 --> 00:30:09,080
Come on, mate.
298
00:30:09,080 --> 00:30:11,400
It's been an honour.
299
00:30:11,400 --> 00:30:14,039
I've loved every moment
I've spent in your company.
300
00:30:14,039 --> 00:30:17,200
You've got an infectious joy.
- Yeah.
301
00:30:19,559 --> 00:30:21,799
- Oh!
302
00:30:21,799 --> 00:30:23,519
Thank you very much.
303
00:30:23,519 --> 00:30:25,640
It's been an absolute joy.
304
00:30:36,999 --> 00:30:40,160
I'm travelling on
across the Kalahari,
305
00:30:40,160 --> 00:30:42,959
from Namibia into Botswana
306
00:30:42,959 --> 00:30:47,160
heading towards the Central
Kalahari Game Reserve,
307
00:30:47,160 --> 00:30:49,640
one of the largest
protected wildlife reserves
308
00:30:49,640 --> 00:30:52,039
in the whole of Africa.
309
00:30:52,039 --> 00:30:55,519
A vast wilderness of more
than 20,000 square miles.
310
00:31:06,080 --> 00:31:08,200
- If you don't have the
room then you can come.
311
00:31:08,200 --> 00:31:11,920
- I know, I'm going to be trapped in
here, in the luggage compartment!
312
00:31:11,920 --> 00:31:13,759
- Yeah, we need you outside.
313
00:31:14,959 --> 00:31:17,039
- This is Ali and Robson.
- One last bag.
314
00:31:17,039 --> 00:31:21,440
- and they're going to be
taking me a fair old distance
315
00:31:21,440 --> 00:31:24,440
across the Kalahari.
- Yes.
316
00:31:24,440 --> 00:31:26,360
Let's do this, Simon.
317
00:31:26,360 --> 00:31:28,360
- Let's get running.
318
00:31:38,559 --> 00:31:43,920
- So, this track takes us into
the very heart of the Kalahari.
319
00:31:43,920 --> 00:31:48,840
We're heading into the CKGR -
the Central Kalahari Game Reserve.
320
00:31:55,440 --> 00:31:58,880
The CKGR brims with wildlife.
321
00:32:00,759 --> 00:32:03,920
This part of the Kalahari was
turned into a wilderness reserve
322
00:32:03,920 --> 00:32:05,719
in the 1960s.
323
00:32:07,160 --> 00:32:12,120
Originally it was set up to protect
the people here, not animals.
324
00:32:12,120 --> 00:32:16,200
The idea was to provide a wild
land and sanctuary for the San.
325
00:32:17,880 --> 00:32:21,080
but since the 1990s,
that's changed.
326
00:32:29,840 --> 00:32:33,559
This area of the Kalahari
has been home to the San
327
00:32:33,559 --> 00:32:35,799
for tens of thousands of years.
328
00:32:35,799 --> 00:32:37,840
But in the last few decades,
329
00:32:37,840 --> 00:32:43,559
the San have been relocated
or transferred out of the reserve.
330
00:32:43,559 --> 00:32:47,160
It's been hugely controversial
in Botswana, in Southern Africa
331
00:32:47,160 --> 00:32:51,600
and around the world because
one of the oldest of human
332
00:32:51,600 --> 00:32:55,880
civilisations has been moved
from one of its core historic areas.
333
00:32:58,719 --> 00:33:02,759
The Botswanan government banned
hunting and blocked drinking wells.
334
00:33:02,759 --> 00:33:06,799
Many of the San were moved
here to a purpose-built settlement
335
00:33:06,799 --> 00:33:08,160
called New Kandwane.
336
00:33:08,160 --> 00:33:11,279
It has roads and small
concrete dwellings
337
00:33:11,279 --> 00:33:13,680
and is now home to
more than 1,000 people.
338
00:33:13,680 --> 00:33:16,039
Some officials said
the San shouldn't be
339
00:33:16,039 --> 00:33:19,479
living in the wilderness without
access to schools and health care.
340
00:33:21,279 --> 00:33:24,360
Good morning.
- Hey, good morning.
341
00:33:24,360 --> 00:33:25,880
- Sorry.
342
00:33:25,880 --> 00:33:27,519
Where are you off to?
343
00:33:30,440 --> 00:33:31,959
- She's going home.
344
00:33:31,959 --> 00:33:34,479
- Marsao Harasemi
was just five years old
345
00:33:34,479 --> 00:33:39,519
when she and her mother
Mantisho left the Central Kalahari.
346
00:33:39,519 --> 00:33:41,200
Can I sit here, Mum?
347
00:33:42,759 --> 00:33:45,120
You don't remember the bush.
- Yes.
348
00:33:45,120 --> 00:33:46,479
- the way she does, of course.
349
00:33:46,479 --> 00:33:50,519
- I grew up in New Kandwane
and she grew up in the Kalahari.
350
00:33:51,719 --> 00:33:53,559
- What were you
feelings and emotions
351
00:33:53,559 --> 00:33:57,200
when you were required
to leave the Kalahari?
352
00:34:16,279 --> 00:34:19,359
It sounds as if you
find quite difficult here?
353
00:34:29,560 --> 00:34:33,239
Can the San people be San
354
00:34:33,239 --> 00:34:37,480
without hunting
and tracking in the
355
00:34:54,080 --> 00:35:00,960
Does it feel to you as though the
San were seen as less important
356
00:35:00,960 --> 00:35:03,160
than the wildlife
in the Kalahari?
357
00:35:09,719 --> 00:35:13,319
Moving out of the wilderness
hasn't been easy for the San.
358
00:35:13,319 --> 00:35:15,600
Many adults here are unemployed,
359
00:35:15,600 --> 00:35:18,759
living from subsistence farming
and state welfare benefits.
360
00:35:21,120 --> 00:35:24,200
Many claim they've lost their
way of life without being given
361
00:35:24,200 --> 00:35:27,239
new purpose and meaning
through enough jobs or training.
362
00:35:27,239 --> 00:35:30,319
It's clear the wilderness
still holds a powerful allure.
363
00:35:33,200 --> 00:35:36,839
But I am quite
struck coming here
364
00:35:36,839 --> 00:35:40,600
by how many of the homesteads
365
00:35:40,600 --> 00:35:47,239
have still got a traditional hut,
effectively, built outside them.
366
00:35:47,239 --> 00:35:50,359
- That shows that we
are still a cultural people,
367
00:35:50,359 --> 00:35:52,919
and we are still
into our culture.
368
00:35:52,919 --> 00:35:56,319
Even if you put a bushman
or a San in this house,
369
00:35:56,319 --> 00:35:59,319
he or she is not going to change anyhow.
- Yeah.
370
00:35:59,319 --> 00:36:02,680
- The change,
it's that structure,
371
00:36:02,680 --> 00:36:06,399
but the heart of a bushman
is not easy to just change.
372
00:36:08,919 --> 00:36:12,919
- Marsao doesn't
remember life out in the bush.
373
00:36:12,919 --> 00:36:15,080
She's had a formal education
374
00:36:15,080 --> 00:36:18,120
and became one of relatively
few San to go to university.
375
00:36:20,239 --> 00:36:24,759
- I got the inspiration right
here in New Kandwane
376
00:36:24,759 --> 00:36:27,480
because that's where we
met different people here.
377
00:36:27,480 --> 00:36:31,480
We met the teachers, we
met the police, the nurses.
378
00:36:31,480 --> 00:36:34,239
That's where we got the inspiration.
- Mmm.
379
00:36:34,239 --> 00:36:38,399
Marsao believes there have been
advantages to life in New Kandwane.
380
00:36:38,399 --> 00:36:41,759
She's keen for more of the San to
have the same access to schools,
381
00:36:41,759 --> 00:36:45,319
jobs and modern health care
that the rest of Botswana enjoys.
382
00:36:45,319 --> 00:36:48,359
So, this is the clinic?
- Yes.
383
00:36:48,359 --> 00:36:50,477
Yeah, that's a much
more modern facility, isn't it?
384
00:36:50,502 --> 00:36:51,200
Yes.
385
00:36:51,200 --> 00:36:54,000
As you can see,
that side is there,
386
00:36:54,000 --> 00:36:57,359
the maternity ward, and
here's the consultancy area.
387
00:36:58,879 --> 00:37:02,319
I believe, even as San, there
is a time that we also have to
388
00:37:02,319 --> 00:37:04,640
adapt to the life of today.
389
00:37:07,000 --> 00:37:11,000
- The Botswanan government has
been accused of human rights abuses
390
00:37:11,000 --> 00:37:13,520
for evicting the San,
391
00:37:13,520 --> 00:37:14,919
some campaigners say
392
00:37:14,919 --> 00:37:18,600
because they thought there
were diamonds in the Kalahari.
393
00:37:18,600 --> 00:37:20,879
The government denies this
394
00:37:20,879 --> 00:37:24,399
and insists the San were moved to
provide them with modern facilities
395
00:37:24,399 --> 00:37:26,839
they can't get out in the bush.
396
00:37:26,839 --> 00:37:30,279
But at times they have also
claimed the growing San population
397
00:37:30,279 --> 00:37:34,279
was destroying wildlife
in the Central Kalahari
398
00:37:34,279 --> 00:37:38,160
and that conservation
should come first.
399
00:37:38,160 --> 00:37:43,520
Whatever the reason or reasons why
the San were moved out of the CKGR,
400
00:37:43,520 --> 00:37:49,160
it did spark a wider debate
about what are wild places for.
401
00:37:50,279 --> 00:37:56,040
Is a wilderness only a wilderness
if there are no humans living there?
402
00:37:56,040 --> 00:38:01,160
Often, indigenous people are
absolutely central to a wilderness.
403
00:38:01,160 --> 00:38:05,799
Often, they're the ones
who help to shape it, create it,
404
00:38:05,799 --> 00:38:08,640
tend it and protect it.
405
00:38:08,640 --> 00:38:11,160
But here, I think
there was a feeling
406
00:38:11,160 --> 00:38:15,480
that to have a proper conservation
area, that required the human beings
407
00:38:15,480 --> 00:38:21,160
who'd lived there for thousands
of years to be moved out.
408
00:38:25,080 --> 00:38:28,759
However, on my wilderness
journeys I've been realising that
409
00:38:28,759 --> 00:38:33,600
humans are actually an integral
part of many remote areas.
410
00:38:33,600 --> 00:38:37,279
I'll see that more as I travel
further across the Kalahari
411
00:38:37,279 --> 00:38:42,080
towards a giant oasis in this
great desert - the Okavango Delta.
412
00:38:46,799 --> 00:38:48,719
Robson grew up in the Kalahari,
413
00:38:48,719 --> 00:38:51,480
absorbing everything there is
to know about the landscape
414
00:38:51,480 --> 00:38:53,239
and wildlife around him.
415
00:38:53,239 --> 00:38:56,160
He's like a walking guidebook.
416
00:38:56,160 --> 00:38:57,839
- Aardwolf, you
see it? It's here.
417
00:38:57,839 --> 00:38:59,279
Oh, my God!
418
00:38:59,279 --> 00:39:01,399
- It's a hyena.
- No, aardwolf.
419
00:39:01,399 --> 00:39:03,239
- Aardwolf?
420
00:39:03,239 --> 00:39:05,960
It's an aardwolf, very rare.
421
00:39:05,960 --> 00:39:08,080
- OK, the head is up there.
422
00:39:08,080 --> 00:39:09,759
You can see two.
423
00:39:09,759 --> 00:39:10,960
So, this is a pair.
424
00:39:10,960 --> 00:39:13,640
You don't often see two.
425
00:39:13,640 --> 00:39:18,040
- The aardwolf is a species of
hyena which eats mainly insects.
426
00:39:18,040 --> 00:39:20,520
Its favourite snack
is the termite.
427
00:39:20,520 --> 00:39:25,399
A single aardwolf can
gobble down 300,000 in a day.
428
00:39:25,399 --> 00:39:29,000
Have you seen these before?
- Well, I only have seen them twice.
429
00:39:29,000 --> 00:39:32,680
But that is after 18 years
of guiding. This is very rare.
430
00:39:32,680 --> 00:39:36,160
So, I'm so impressed
that you get to see two.
431
00:39:36,160 --> 00:39:40,040
And these are often
more active at night.
432
00:39:42,319 --> 00:39:44,200
Oh, look, wow!
433
00:39:44,200 --> 00:39:46,040
I am a touch impressed.
- Hey!
434
00:39:46,040 --> 00:39:48,239
- It's hard to believe.
435
00:39:48,239 --> 00:39:49,839
Very nice.
436
00:40:04,759 --> 00:40:08,319
- So, this case should
be safe out here.
437
00:40:08,319 --> 00:40:11,839
Hyenas are not
going to get into that,
438
00:40:11,839 --> 00:40:14,480
but I need to take my shoes
inside, cos apparently they like
439
00:40:14,480 --> 00:40:17,560
stealing them from outside
tents and having a chew.
440
00:40:35,600 --> 00:40:38,040
I'm sure I can hear lions.
441
00:40:50,640 --> 00:40:53,520
There are lions
going past my tent.
442
00:41:01,759 --> 00:41:04,520
- We are going
to the water hole.
443
00:41:04,520 --> 00:41:06,560
Thank you.
444
00:41:07,960 --> 00:41:10,000
- Lions.
445
00:41:10,000 --> 00:41:13,040
They're here.at the water hole.
446
00:41:23,520 --> 00:41:25,359
There he is.
447
00:41:26,879 --> 00:41:29,319
The king of the Kalahari.
448
00:41:47,680 --> 00:41:51,359
You feel it so deep within you,
449
00:41:51,359 --> 00:41:54,719
that primal, terrifying,
450
00:41:54,719 --> 00:41:57,399
awe-inspiring roar.
451
00:42:05,839 --> 00:42:09,399
Kalahari lions are
magnificent creatures.
452
00:42:09,399 --> 00:42:13,799
The sheer volume of all
wildlife here is truly awe-inspiring.
453
00:42:13,799 --> 00:42:16,279
- That's a young jackal.
454
00:42:20,279 --> 00:42:23,879
- Species that face near
extinction in other parts of Africa
455
00:42:23,879 --> 00:42:26,799
are still common here
in this area of Botswana.
456
00:42:31,319 --> 00:42:33,239
- There are elephants,
elephants on the left
457
00:42:33,239 --> 00:42:36,480
and at ten o'clock or 11,
there's a herd of elephants.
458
00:42:36,480 --> 00:42:38,879
- There's a herd of elephants!
459
00:42:38,879 --> 00:42:40,480
- It's so unique.
460
00:42:40,480 --> 00:42:43,439
The grassland is amazing.
461
00:42:43,439 --> 00:42:47,319
- There were once 25
million elephants in Africa.
462
00:42:47,319 --> 00:42:50,000
Now that's down to just 400,000
463
00:42:50,000 --> 00:42:53,080
because of habitat
loss and ivory poaching.
464
00:42:53,080 --> 00:42:56,759
Across the continent, the
population is still shrinking
465
00:42:56,759 --> 00:43:00,520
but Botswana has almost a
third of all the African elephants
466
00:43:00,520 --> 00:43:02,520
left on the planet.
467
00:43:02,520 --> 00:43:06,319
Botswana is home to the world's
largest population of elephants
468
00:43:06,319 --> 00:43:09,080
and that is such an achievement
when you think how poachers have
469
00:43:09,080 --> 00:43:11,680
targeted this animal
in recent decades.
470
00:43:23,160 --> 00:43:26,040
But conservation here
has come at a cost.
471
00:43:26,040 --> 00:43:29,359
The treatment of the San - truly
the people of the wilderness -
472
00:43:29,359 --> 00:43:31,799
is hugely controversial.
473
00:43:31,799 --> 00:43:33,600
And on the edges
of the Kalahari,
474
00:43:33,600 --> 00:43:37,839
wildlife is coming into
direct conflict with people.
475
00:43:37,839 --> 00:43:43,439
As human populations grow, and
areas that were once wild in the Kalahari
476
00:43:43,439 --> 00:43:48,799
become farmland, the frontiers
of the wilderness area can become
477
00:43:48,799 --> 00:43:50,839
something of a battleground.
478
00:43:50,839 --> 00:43:53,080
I've left the Central Kalahari
479
00:43:53,080 --> 00:43:57,000
and arrived in one of the frontier
areas where human/wildlife conflict
480
00:43:57,000 --> 00:44:00,640
is having dramatic, even
tragic consequences.
481
00:44:00,640 --> 00:44:03,560
- How are you? - Very nice to meet you.
- Nice to meet you, Simon.
482
00:44:03,560 --> 00:44:05,919
- Ooh, let's go.
- All right.
483
00:44:05,919 --> 00:44:08,040
- This is Tata Monsentwa,
484
00:44:08,040 --> 00:44:10,759
a conservationist who's
tried to help keep the peace.
485
00:44:12,200 --> 00:44:16,080
- And this is where the river
passes when we get floods.
486
00:44:16,080 --> 00:44:20,879
It's the river that separates
the community with the wildlife.
487
00:44:20,879 --> 00:44:25,319
- So, the community here is
right on the edge of the wild?
488
00:44:25,319 --> 00:44:27,640
- Yeah, true.
- The wilderness? - Yeah, true.
489
00:44:27,640 --> 00:44:30,560
It's a village called
Kumaka Village.
490
00:44:31,680 --> 00:44:34,279
- Are you from this community?
- Yeah, I'm from this community.
491
00:44:34,279 --> 00:44:37,200
- You grew up here?
- I grew up here. - Hey!
492
00:44:37,200 --> 00:44:40,560
- And we have cows
and we have goats.
493
00:44:40,560 --> 00:44:44,399
- Yeah.
- Yeah, and also we do crops too.
494
00:44:44,399 --> 00:44:46,839
It's more like a
family, a family thing.
495
00:44:48,160 --> 00:44:49,600
Cows.
496
00:44:49,600 --> 00:44:51,560
There's cows wandering around.
497
00:44:52,960 --> 00:44:56,200
So, Tata's taking
me to see a farmer
498
00:44:56,200 --> 00:44:59,239
whose lost some of
her crops to elephants.
499
00:45:00,439 --> 00:45:01,919
Are we here?
- Yeah.
500
00:45:01,919 --> 00:45:04,160
- We're here.
501
00:45:07,719 --> 00:45:09,640
Oh, bloody hell!
502
00:45:09,640 --> 00:45:11,520
It's a bit barren, isn't it?
- Yeah.
503
00:45:16,799 --> 00:45:20,719
- Ancoletsan Bablalefee is
typical of many farmers here.
504
00:45:20,719 --> 00:45:23,000
She grows crops
to feed her family
505
00:45:23,000 --> 00:45:26,200
and sells what she has left
over for just a few pounds a day.
506
00:45:53,040 --> 00:45:55,279
Oh, my goodness.
507
00:46:05,680 --> 00:46:08,520
How do you feel
about elephants now?
508
00:46:21,160 --> 00:46:25,520
To protect their crops, farmers
have been known to shoot elephants.
509
00:46:25,520 --> 00:46:29,480
But Tata works for the
charity Elephants for Africa,
510
00:46:29,480 --> 00:46:32,399
and he tries to stop
conflicts from escalating.
511
00:46:32,399 --> 00:46:37,160
He helps farmers like Ancoletsan
keep elephants out of their fields
512
00:46:37,160 --> 00:46:40,120
using some pretty
unorthodox methods.
513
00:46:40,120 --> 00:46:42,080
He's cooking up a chilli bomb.
514
00:46:54,839 --> 00:46:57,160
That is a lot of chilli.
515
00:47:18,279 --> 00:47:21,319
So, that is now in operation, working?
- Yeah.
516
00:47:21,319 --> 00:47:25,200
- And, look, you can see the
smoke spreading out across the field.
517
00:47:25,200 --> 00:47:26,520
- Yeah.
518
00:47:26,520 --> 00:47:30,600
- How effective is this at
clearing a field of elephants?
519
00:47:30,600 --> 00:47:32,759
- Imagine how you can feel it.
520
00:47:32,759 --> 00:47:36,200
Elephants do feel it ten
times more than you do.
521
00:47:36,200 --> 00:47:39,759
So, that's why it is very
effective against elephants.
522
00:47:39,759 --> 00:47:43,359
- Local farmers are being
encouraged to grow chillies
523
00:47:43,359 --> 00:47:46,680
which produce the same
chemical you find in pepper spray.
524
00:47:46,680 --> 00:47:48,439
We're a good 20
metres away and I.
525
00:47:49,640 --> 00:47:52,640
can definitely feel the effects.
526
00:47:52,640 --> 00:47:54,640
And imagine if they've got.
527
00:47:55,759 --> 00:47:57,640
several of them
set up around the.
528
00:48:00,279 --> 00:48:02,719
set up around the field.
529
00:48:04,879 --> 00:48:07,839
If I'm an elephant,
I'm getting out of here.
530
00:48:10,799 --> 00:48:14,120
The population of
Africa is growing rapidly.
531
00:48:14,120 --> 00:48:19,319
It's predicted to almost double by
2050 to around 2.5 billion people.
532
00:48:19,319 --> 00:48:22,919
Providing food for everyone
while conserving wildlife
533
00:48:22,919 --> 00:48:25,919
and wilderness will
be a huge challenge.
534
00:48:25,919 --> 00:48:28,759
For Tata, it's an issue
that's deeply personal.
535
00:48:28,759 --> 00:48:31,680
An amazing scene here
536
00:48:31,680 --> 00:48:35,759
with the elephants
moving off as the sun sets.
537
00:48:35,759 --> 00:48:37,480
- Yeah, it's a beautiful view.
538
00:48:37,480 --> 00:48:40,239
- So, we've got within
our sight at the moment
539
00:48:40,239 --> 00:48:43,480
two, four, five,
six, seven, eight,
540
00:48:43,480 --> 00:48:46,399
nine, ten, 11, I
think, elephants.
541
00:48:46,399 --> 00:48:48,120
- Yeah.
542
00:48:50,359 --> 00:48:53,200
- So, they are watching
us quite warily, aren't they?
543
00:48:53,200 --> 00:48:56,640
- Yeah, and you have to
think of them as wild animals
544
00:48:56,640 --> 00:48:58,319
because they are killing people.
545
00:48:58,319 --> 00:49:01,600
- So it's not just
elephants raiding crops,
546
00:49:01,600 --> 00:49:03,680
it's taking lives?
- Yeah.
547
00:49:03,680 --> 00:49:08,160
- How many elephant fatalities
have you had in your community?
548
00:49:08,160 --> 00:49:10,799
- I would say around.
549
00:49:12,480 --> 00:49:14,759
maybe around four or five.
550
00:49:14,759 --> 00:49:16,600
- Wow!
551
00:49:16,600 --> 00:49:19,839
Elephants can be highly
protective of their young,
552
00:49:19,839 --> 00:49:22,279
fighting off predators.
553
00:49:22,279 --> 00:49:25,719
When they're startled, they
can see people as a threat,
554
00:49:25,719 --> 00:49:28,279
and they can really lash out.
555
00:49:28,279 --> 00:49:29,839
- My cousin was, er.
556
00:49:29,839 --> 00:49:35,480
He went to see his friends and
he unfortunately met an elephant
557
00:49:35,480 --> 00:49:39,960
which. It was unfortunate that
he saw it from a short distance.
558
00:49:39,960 --> 00:49:43,600
He tried to run away from it
559
00:49:43,600 --> 00:49:45,200
but because elephant is big,
560
00:49:45,200 --> 00:49:48,960
it was able to see him running
away even behind the bushes.
561
00:49:48,960 --> 00:49:52,719
So, it kept chasing
him until, you know,
562
00:49:52,719 --> 00:49:55,600
it was able to hit him.
563
00:49:59,600 --> 00:50:01,520
- I'm so sorry.
564
00:50:06,359 --> 00:50:09,839
Tata's cousin died
from his injuries.
565
00:50:09,839 --> 00:50:13,279
In Botswana, elephants now
kill more people than lions.
566
00:50:14,480 --> 00:50:17,080
I think some people,
perhaps many people,
567
00:50:17,080 --> 00:50:20,160
would turn against
elephants as a result.
568
00:50:20,160 --> 00:50:23,680
- Yeah, they will.
- But you don't?
569
00:50:23,680 --> 00:50:27,960
- Er, I don't because
it's a wildlife area.
570
00:50:27,960 --> 00:50:30,560
You don't want to see
elephants killing people,
571
00:50:30,560 --> 00:50:33,600
but, you know, we
can't push them away,
572
00:50:33,600 --> 00:50:37,680
so it's more of finding a
way to co-exist with them.
573
00:51:01,080 --> 00:51:04,640
- I've travelled for weeks through
this dry, parched wilderness
574
00:51:04,640 --> 00:51:07,040
and I've hardly
seen a drop of water.
575
00:51:07,040 --> 00:51:09,080
But I hope that's
about to change.
576
00:51:11,600 --> 00:51:16,640
I'm leaving the arid areas
of the Kalahari behind now
577
00:51:16,640 --> 00:51:20,799
and heading towards the
end of this part of my journey.
578
00:51:20,799 --> 00:51:23,799
We're on our way towards
the Okavango Delta.
579
00:51:27,239 --> 00:51:30,799
The Okavango Delta is the
largest freshwater wetland
580
00:51:30,799 --> 00:51:32,600
in Southern Africa.
581
00:51:32,600 --> 00:51:35,399
It's home to one of the most
spectacular concentrations of
582
00:51:35,399 --> 00:51:37,319
wildlife on Earth.
583
00:51:37,319 --> 00:51:40,399
That draws in visitors to
upmarket safari lodges,
584
00:51:40,399 --> 00:51:44,960
creating a whole tourism
industry in this area of the Kalahari
585
00:51:44,960 --> 00:51:47,439
that I'm keen to understand.
586
00:51:50,439 --> 00:51:52,000
Well, we've arrived.
587
00:51:53,719 --> 00:51:57,080
Oh! somewhere very fancy.
588
00:51:58,120 --> 00:52:00,000
My goodness.
589
00:52:00,000 --> 00:52:01,839
All right, well, I'm knackered.
590
00:52:01,839 --> 00:52:06,239
I'm going to get a good night's
sleep tonight and I'll have a wash.
591
00:52:07,560 --> 00:52:09,960
I will see you in the morning.
592
00:52:19,600 --> 00:52:21,600
Ah, flipping heck.
593
00:52:22,839 --> 00:52:26,399
So, this is the Okavango Delta.
594
00:52:28,640 --> 00:52:31,919
It's known as the
Jewel of the Kalahari.
595
00:52:35,279 --> 00:52:38,560
Each year when the
Kalahari is at its driest,
596
00:52:38,560 --> 00:52:42,000
rain in the north flows
downriver and empties into a huge
597
00:52:42,000 --> 00:52:45,879
inland delta, transforming
this part of the Kalahari Desert
598
00:52:45,879 --> 00:52:50,759
into a lush, waterlogged
oasis packed with wildlife.
599
00:52:50,759 --> 00:52:54,719
It's been described as the closest
thing to Eden left on the planet.
600
00:52:57,640 --> 00:53:00,640
It's like a vast shallow bathtub
601
00:53:00,640 --> 00:53:04,759
into which a river flows,
and then wildlife comes
602
00:53:04,759 --> 00:53:07,960
from across Southern
Africa to drink and eat here,
603
00:53:07,960 --> 00:53:13,120
which means it is a destination
for seriously high-end tourism.
604
00:53:13,120 --> 00:53:17,560
Some lodges in the Delta
charge more than ยฃ1,000 a night
605
00:53:17,560 --> 00:53:19,160
for a room. Ooh!
606
00:53:19,160 --> 00:53:22,680
The tourism industry can
be hugely damaging, but here,
607
00:53:22,680 --> 00:53:25,359
like in so many other
wild areas I've visited,
608
00:53:25,359 --> 00:53:27,879
it provides thousands of jobs.
609
00:53:27,879 --> 00:53:31,560
Rather than clearing land
for farming or poaching,
610
00:53:31,560 --> 00:53:35,919
tourism can give locals an economic
incentive to look after landscapes
611
00:53:35,919 --> 00:53:37,680
and wildlife.
612
00:53:39,200 --> 00:53:42,600
Unless we're all going to start
donating billions to provide jobs
613
00:53:42,600 --> 00:53:44,919
and preserve wildernesses,
614
00:53:44,919 --> 00:53:47,919
perhaps responsible
tourism has a crucial role.
615
00:53:49,439 --> 00:53:51,160
Is it stable?
616
00:53:51,160 --> 00:53:52,600
- Got it.
- Stable enough.
617
00:53:52,600 --> 00:53:56,319
The tourism industry has helped make
Botswana one of the richer countries
618
00:53:56,319 --> 00:53:59,719
in Africa and helps preserve
the wildlife of the Kalahari.
619
00:54:01,600 --> 00:54:04,879
Koki Makodi is a Botswanan
campaigner and conservationist.
620
00:54:06,200 --> 00:54:08,879
- This is called a macuro.
621
00:54:08,879 --> 00:54:11,040
It's actually a dugout canoe
622
00:54:11,040 --> 00:54:14,520
which, traditionally, the people of
the Okavango Delta have relied on
623
00:54:14,520 --> 00:54:17,319
as a mode of transport
to get from island to island.
624
00:54:18,640 --> 00:54:21,839
- This is exceptional.
625
00:54:21,839 --> 00:54:27,120
Here we are quietly,
without an engine,
626
00:54:27,120 --> 00:54:31,839
gently sliding towards two
giant elephants close to us
627
00:54:31,839 --> 00:54:33,919
and another three down there.
628
00:54:33,919 --> 00:54:36,439
We've got more
in the bushes here.
629
00:54:36,439 --> 00:54:39,759
- I think we're very, very blessed,
Simon, to be able to witness this
630
00:54:39,759 --> 00:54:41,759
in our lifetimes.
631
00:54:48,879 --> 00:54:52,919
- One of Koki's concerns is that
tourism here hasn't done enough
632
00:54:52,919 --> 00:54:54,279
for ordinary people
633
00:54:54,279 --> 00:54:57,879
and that the indigenous people
of the Kalahari have often been
634
00:54:57,879 --> 00:55:00,960
marginalised in favour of
the wildlife and the tourists.
635
00:55:02,279 --> 00:55:07,319
How can we protect
wild places, wildernesses,
636
00:55:07,319 --> 00:55:11,399
whilst still providing
jobs, opportunities
637
00:55:11,399 --> 00:55:13,439
for the people who live there
638
00:55:13,439 --> 00:55:16,399
and are a fundamental
part of those places?
639
00:55:16,399 --> 00:55:18,399
- I think tourism
could do a better job.
640
00:55:18,399 --> 00:55:21,279
When you have profit to make,
641
00:55:21,279 --> 00:55:23,960
you don't want that
profit to be challenged
642
00:55:23,960 --> 00:55:29,000
and it served certain operators
to enter this business at a time
643
00:55:29,000 --> 00:55:32,799
when the people surrounding the
old indigenous peoples of that area
644
00:55:32,799 --> 00:55:35,319
were not highly educated.
645
00:55:35,319 --> 00:55:39,239
So, it benefitted them in that
they could pay cheaper wages.
646
00:55:39,239 --> 00:55:43,640
- So, understanding
that indigenous people
647
00:55:43,640 --> 00:55:46,560
who have lived in a place,
for sometimes thousands,
648
00:55:46,560 --> 00:55:48,799
tens of thousands of
years, they know stuff.
649
00:55:48,799 --> 00:55:52,080
- Yes, and they need to be
appreciated for knowing that stuff.
650
00:55:52,080 --> 00:55:56,399
I mean, we've gone long
enough without recognising
651
00:55:56,399 --> 00:56:00,680
the importance of the people
652
00:56:00,680 --> 00:56:04,160
who have kept the
balance in these spaces,
653
00:56:04,160 --> 00:56:06,640
and we need to listen to them.
654
00:56:08,839 --> 00:56:11,960
- Don Joseph comes from a
village where many people make
655
00:56:11,960 --> 00:56:14,799
a living punting travellers
around the Okavango Delta.
656
00:56:16,759 --> 00:56:19,680
They've tried to build their
business by working independently
657
00:56:19,680 --> 00:56:21,759
from big tour operators.
658
00:56:21,759 --> 00:56:25,080
- I'm part of the
Poler's Association.
659
00:56:25,080 --> 00:56:29,160
- So, I've been doing
it, like, three years now.
660
00:56:29,160 --> 00:56:31,040
Are you on social media, Don?
661
00:56:31,040 --> 00:56:34,879
- Yes.
- And so you get direct bookings that way?
662
00:56:34,879 --> 00:56:38,120
- Yes. You just book
to the community.
663
00:56:38,120 --> 00:56:41,399
They will pay those
people with them callers.
664
00:56:41,399 --> 00:56:44,279
- So, you're earning
the money directly?
665
00:56:44,279 --> 00:56:47,919
It's not going through a tour
operator in Europe or somewhere?
666
00:56:47,919 --> 00:56:50,279
- No, it's just going
to the community.
667
00:56:50,279 --> 00:56:53,960
- That sounds pretty vital, that local
people can have local companies
668
00:56:53,960 --> 00:56:57,080
and earn direct from
tourism or any other.
669
00:56:57,080 --> 00:57:00,160
- Absolutely.
- .business. - Absolutely.
670
00:57:00,160 --> 00:57:04,239
It's proving to be possible,
but we need to band together to
671
00:57:04,239 --> 00:57:08,520
kind of support one another to
make sure that it is long lasting.
672
00:57:08,520 --> 00:57:12,080
- What Koki is campaigning for
is a system that could really help
673
00:57:12,080 --> 00:57:16,040
to preserve wilderness
areas around the world.
674
00:57:16,040 --> 00:57:18,919
Wildernesses aren't empty.
675
00:57:18,919 --> 00:57:25,279
They are full of life and often
very full of people as well.
676
00:57:25,279 --> 00:57:28,520
I think what I've learnt on this
journey is that if we are going
677
00:57:28,520 --> 00:57:32,480
to protect this
wilderness - the Kalahari -
678
00:57:32,480 --> 00:57:35,960
we're all going to have
to get better at protecting
679
00:57:35,960 --> 00:57:41,359
and looking after, educating
and engaging with the people
680
00:57:41,359 --> 00:57:43,600
who live here and know it best.
681
00:57:45,439 --> 00:57:49,319
Our remaining great wilderness
areas face many threats.
682
00:57:51,040 --> 00:57:54,680
On my journeys I've seen
how climate change is disrupting
683
00:57:54,680 --> 00:57:57,799
these eco-systems
on which we all depend.
684
00:57:59,960 --> 00:58:04,600
Remote areas are also being targeted
by ranchers, loggers and miners.
685
00:58:05,839 --> 00:58:09,399
Our increasing human population
is encroaching on the wilderness.
686
00:58:11,399 --> 00:58:15,200
Surely, these wild areas
are worth protecting.
687
00:58:21,680 --> 00:58:25,759
They're home to our most
spectacular and important wildlife.
688
00:58:28,359 --> 00:58:30,600
and we need them.
689
00:58:30,600 --> 00:58:32,319
We're not separate from nature.
690
00:58:32,319 --> 00:58:33,680
Whoa!
691
00:58:33,680 --> 00:58:36,000
we're part of it.
692
00:58:36,000 --> 00:58:39,359
We need to know
wilderness exists
693
00:58:39,359 --> 00:58:41,399
and we need it in our lives.
694
00:58:43,359 --> 00:58:46,600
because living on an
extraordinary, wild planet.
695
00:58:48,839 --> 00:58:52,040
is part of what
makes us truly human.
696
00:58:54,239 --> 00:58:56,399
It's been an honour.
56180
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