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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:01,201 --> 00:00:03,203 Palau. 2 00:00:03,203 --> 00:00:06,874 A remote and tiny island chain near the equator 3 00:00:06,874 --> 00:00:10,777 is home to one of the world's richest reef ecosystems. 4 00:00:13,614 --> 00:00:15,682 It is also home to giants. 5 00:00:18,185 --> 00:00:20,754 Massive Second World War wrecks 6 00:00:20,754 --> 00:00:24,057 harbor dark secrets on the ocean floor. 7 00:00:24,057 --> 00:00:25,525 I turn around, 8 00:00:25,525 --> 00:00:27,995 there's a huge monster wreck behind me. 9 00:00:27,995 --> 00:00:29,997 My heart went whoomp. 10 00:00:29,997 --> 00:00:31,698 Undersea trenches, 11 00:00:31,698 --> 00:00:33,901 deep enough to swallow mountains 12 00:00:33,901 --> 00:00:36,803 offer a glimpse into the abyss. 13 00:00:36,803 --> 00:00:38,005 The old phrase that 14 00:00:38,005 --> 00:00:40,474 "we know more about the surface of the moon and Mars 15 00:00:40,474 --> 00:00:44,044 than we know about the bottom of the ocean" holds true. 16 00:00:44,044 --> 00:00:46,146 And large and mysterious creatures 17 00:00:46,146 --> 00:00:48,949 soar through its azure waters. 18 00:00:48,949 --> 00:00:50,150 You turn around and all you see 19 00:00:50,150 --> 00:00:52,686 is these big, gaping mouths coming out of the blue. 20 00:00:52,686 --> 00:00:56,757 It's basically like a mouth with wings on it coming at you. 21 00:00:56,757 --> 00:00:59,793 Here, in this land of the giants. 22 00:00:59,793 --> 00:01:09,836 (♪♪♪) 23 00:01:09,836 --> 00:01:19,813 (♪♪♪) 24 00:01:19,813 --> 00:01:30,023 (♪♪♪) 25 00:01:30,023 --> 00:01:32,292 At the southern end of the Palau islands 26 00:01:32,292 --> 00:01:35,162 near a dive site called German Channel, 27 00:01:35,162 --> 00:01:37,497 manta researcher Mandy Etpison 28 00:01:37,497 --> 00:01:39,967 prepares to descend into the blue. 29 00:01:39,967 --> 00:01:48,942 (♪♪♪) 30 00:01:48,942 --> 00:01:51,244 During the German occupation of Palau, 31 00:01:51,244 --> 00:01:54,214 prior to the First World War 32 00:01:54,214 --> 00:01:57,117 miners blasted and dredged a channel here 33 00:01:57,117 --> 00:02:01,922 to create a shipping route between the islands. 34 00:02:01,922 --> 00:02:04,257 Today, strong currents carry plankton 35 00:02:04,257 --> 00:02:08,462 to the mouth of the channel, making it an ideal feeding site 36 00:02:08,462 --> 00:02:11,832 for one of the ocean's most graceful and gentle giants. 37 00:02:15,869 --> 00:02:17,304 The manta ray. 38 00:02:19,206 --> 00:02:22,442 One of the largest creatures in the sea survives by feeding 39 00:02:22,442 --> 00:02:27,147 almost entirely on one of the smallest. 40 00:02:27,147 --> 00:02:28,382 It's sort of like a bottleneck 41 00:02:28,382 --> 00:02:30,650 so the plankton gets concentrated here 42 00:02:30,650 --> 00:02:33,387 and that's why it's famous for mantas. 43 00:02:33,387 --> 00:02:35,422 So we're hoping to see mantas obviously 44 00:02:35,422 --> 00:02:38,425 and, if we're lucky, maybe a new individual 45 00:02:38,425 --> 00:02:39,793 that hasn't been recorded yet 46 00:02:39,793 --> 00:02:41,695 so we can add it to our database. 47 00:02:48,869 --> 00:02:51,571 Mandy began the Palau Manta ID Project 48 00:02:51,571 --> 00:02:53,340 in 2009. 49 00:02:53,340 --> 00:02:58,745 Identifying each animal by the spots on its belly. 50 00:02:58,745 --> 00:03:03,417 The spot formation on a manta is as unique as a fingerprint. 51 00:03:03,417 --> 00:03:05,619 We started taking pictures of the bellies 52 00:03:05,619 --> 00:03:08,722 to identify the mantas and trying to show, 53 00:03:08,722 --> 00:03:10,157 especially Palau government, 54 00:03:10,157 --> 00:03:12,325 that we don't need to hurt the animals 55 00:03:12,325 --> 00:03:16,196 or tag them to be able to find out more about them. 56 00:03:16,196 --> 00:03:18,799 We've identified over 280 right now. 57 00:03:18,799 --> 00:03:20,233 Five years ago, nobody would have believed 58 00:03:20,233 --> 00:03:23,203 we have that many mantas in Palau. 59 00:03:23,203 --> 00:03:28,442 This simple ID project can do a lot. 60 00:03:28,442 --> 00:03:30,977 By tracking the numbers and movements of mantas, 61 00:03:30,977 --> 00:03:33,146 Mandy and the UK based Manta Trust 62 00:03:33,146 --> 00:03:35,882 can identify any population decline 63 00:03:35,882 --> 00:03:38,085 caused by illegal fishing, 64 00:03:38,085 --> 00:03:41,688 and whether or not tourism may be driving mantas away 65 00:03:41,688 --> 00:03:43,390 from German Channel. 66 00:03:50,197 --> 00:03:52,599 Tourism is on the rise in Palau, 67 00:03:52,599 --> 00:03:54,801 a collection of more than 200 islands 68 00:03:54,801 --> 00:03:58,071 nearly 1,000 miles east of the Philippines 69 00:03:58,071 --> 00:04:02,008 in the Western Pacific ocean. 70 00:04:02,008 --> 00:04:05,312 The tourists that flock here to explore its natural wonders 71 00:04:05,312 --> 00:04:09,850 contribute about $125 million to the economy, 72 00:04:09,850 --> 00:04:14,521 more than half of Palau's gross domestic product. 73 00:04:14,521 --> 00:04:16,756 Hundreds of miles of sky-blue ocean 74 00:04:16,756 --> 00:04:18,425 surround the archipelago. 75 00:04:21,228 --> 00:04:22,729 Limestone islands, 76 00:04:22,729 --> 00:04:25,599 blanketed in thick and pristine jungle 77 00:04:25,599 --> 00:04:28,001 rise like mushrooms from the sea. 78 00:04:29,236 --> 00:04:31,505 They appear to be floating gardens. 79 00:04:35,308 --> 00:04:37,410 Scuba divers from across the globe 80 00:04:37,410 --> 00:04:38,778 are drawn to Palau 81 00:04:38,778 --> 00:04:41,481 for what lies beneath the emerald lagoons: 82 00:04:44,584 --> 00:04:47,387 One of the world's richest reef ecosystems. 83 00:04:52,592 --> 00:04:56,730 These coral gardens overflow with 1,500 species of fish, 84 00:04:59,499 --> 00:05:01,334 500 species of coral, 85 00:05:04,104 --> 00:05:07,207 and more than 100 species of sharks and rays. 86 00:05:09,342 --> 00:05:13,513 Palau's seas may contain more species of marine life 87 00:05:13,513 --> 00:05:15,815 than anywhere else on earth 88 00:05:15,815 --> 00:05:18,952 and provide researchers an exceptional window 89 00:05:18,952 --> 00:05:21,555 into a vanishing underwater world. 90 00:05:26,159 --> 00:05:28,328 The explosion of marine life here 91 00:05:28,328 --> 00:05:30,463 is due to marine geology. 92 00:05:32,732 --> 00:05:35,735 Palau sits on the tip of an underwater mountain 93 00:05:35,735 --> 00:05:38,738 that formed 70 million years ago. 94 00:05:40,807 --> 00:05:42,943 Far below the island peaks 95 00:05:42,943 --> 00:05:46,213 currents crash against the drowned mountain 96 00:05:46,213 --> 00:05:49,316 then surge upward, carrying the nutrients 97 00:05:49,316 --> 00:05:52,018 that underpin the oceanic food chain. 98 00:05:56,756 --> 00:05:59,593 There is another reason for the sheer numbers of fish 99 00:05:59,593 --> 00:06:02,062 that throng these waters. 100 00:06:02,062 --> 00:06:04,864 Palau has a long history of conservation. 101 00:06:07,500 --> 00:06:10,103 For centuries, Palauans have lived in harmony 102 00:06:10,103 --> 00:06:11,438 with the sea, 103 00:06:11,438 --> 00:06:13,873 never taking more than they needed. 104 00:06:17,444 --> 00:06:18,878 In 2009, 105 00:06:18,878 --> 00:06:23,049 Palau created the world's first shark sanctuary, 106 00:06:23,049 --> 00:06:25,752 making it illegal to catch sharks in its seas. 107 00:06:30,490 --> 00:06:34,628 Then in 2014, it expanded its conservation efforts 108 00:06:34,628 --> 00:06:38,365 and banned all foreign fishing within its waters. 109 00:06:42,669 --> 00:06:46,973 Palau is now home to the world's largest marine sanctuary, 110 00:06:46,973 --> 00:06:51,111 a swath of protected ocean nearly the size of California. 111 00:06:53,013 --> 00:06:57,217 Marine-law officers patrol the Palauan seas 112 00:06:57,217 --> 00:06:59,853 on the lookout for illegal fishing vessels. 113 00:07:03,757 --> 00:07:06,126 As a result, the big fish that have been all 114 00:07:06,126 --> 00:07:08,995 but wiped out in some areas of the Pacific 115 00:07:08,995 --> 00:07:11,965 are still very much alive in Palau. 116 00:07:11,965 --> 00:07:18,338 (♪♪♪) 117 00:07:18,338 --> 00:07:20,173 Hefty grey reef sharks. 118 00:07:24,978 --> 00:07:27,714 Five-foot-long Napolean wrasses. 119 00:07:33,253 --> 00:07:35,989 And of course, manta rays: 120 00:07:35,989 --> 00:07:39,225 The marine giants that patrol these seas. 121 00:07:42,729 --> 00:07:45,932 Though smaller than their oceanic cousins 122 00:07:45,932 --> 00:07:49,369 reef mantas are still among the largest fish in the sea. 123 00:07:51,604 --> 00:07:54,908 They have an average wing span of 11 feet 124 00:07:54,908 --> 00:07:58,044 and reach weights of more than 3,000 pounds. 125 00:08:00,080 --> 00:08:03,450 Mantas have exceptionally large brains 126 00:08:03,450 --> 00:08:06,786 specifically the region responsible for hearing, touch 127 00:08:06,786 --> 00:08:08,221 and vision. 128 00:08:10,090 --> 00:08:13,426 They are highly social and curious about humans. 129 00:08:16,329 --> 00:08:17,697 If you've been diving a long time 130 00:08:17,697 --> 00:08:19,399 you interact with different animals. 131 00:08:19,399 --> 00:08:21,301 You can see the difference, for instance, 132 00:08:21,301 --> 00:08:23,770 between a guppy or a Napoleon wrasse. 133 00:08:23,770 --> 00:08:24,771 The Napoleon wrasse, 134 00:08:24,771 --> 00:08:25,939 you can tell there's somebody home. 135 00:08:25,939 --> 00:08:27,841 There's an intelligent being in there 136 00:08:27,841 --> 00:08:29,409 and it's the same with mantas. 137 00:08:29,409 --> 00:08:31,544 When you look at them and you start realizing 138 00:08:31,544 --> 00:08:33,580 they're actually, in my opinion 139 00:08:33,580 --> 00:08:35,281 they can recognize certain dive guides. 140 00:08:35,281 --> 00:08:36,683 They will go over a dive group 141 00:08:36,683 --> 00:08:38,585 and go straight for the dive guide, 142 00:08:38,585 --> 00:08:40,587 and especially the newborn mantas 143 00:08:40,587 --> 00:08:44,224 they will play with divers when it's not too crowded. 144 00:08:44,224 --> 00:08:46,025 You can see it's an intelligent animal 145 00:08:46,025 --> 00:08:48,595 like a dog or a cat and they can learn. 146 00:09:00,240 --> 00:09:03,410 At German Channel, mantas swim against the current 147 00:09:03,410 --> 00:09:06,246 to feed on large concentrations of plankton 148 00:09:06,246 --> 00:09:08,214 swept into the channel entrance. 149 00:09:10,683 --> 00:09:13,386 Fins curving around its face direct water 150 00:09:13,386 --> 00:09:15,588 into the manta's large, open mouth. 151 00:09:20,994 --> 00:09:23,663 You turn around and all you see is these big, gaping mouths 152 00:09:23,663 --> 00:09:24,998 coming out of the blue. 153 00:09:24,998 --> 00:09:27,500 It's basically like a mouth with wings on it coming at you. 154 00:09:27,500 --> 00:09:29,402 It's an amazing sight. 155 00:09:31,271 --> 00:09:33,373 Tissue between the manta's gills 156 00:09:33,373 --> 00:09:38,511 sift tiny crustaceans and plankton from the water. 157 00:09:38,511 --> 00:09:41,748 A manta is like a giant filtering machine, 158 00:09:41,748 --> 00:09:45,885 capable of vacuuming up more than 400 pounds of plankton 159 00:09:45,885 --> 00:09:48,188 in a single week. 160 00:09:51,291 --> 00:09:56,129 At times, manta feeding can be a dizzying display. 161 00:09:56,129 --> 00:09:58,064 Depending on the current and the wind direction, 162 00:09:58,064 --> 00:10:01,501 sometimes they'll feed by themselves and roll. 163 00:10:01,501 --> 00:10:02,602 They call it "barrel rolling". 164 00:10:02,602 --> 00:10:04,003 It's like an underwater ballet. 165 00:10:04,003 --> 00:10:05,305 Really nice to watch. 166 00:10:10,477 --> 00:10:13,279 The manta may look like it's chasing its tail 167 00:10:13,279 --> 00:10:16,149 but by rolling, it pushes more plankton 168 00:10:16,149 --> 00:10:18,084 into its waiting mouth. 169 00:10:22,422 --> 00:10:26,159 When the current is strong usually right before a full moon 170 00:10:26,159 --> 00:10:28,294 mantas adopt an entirely different 171 00:10:28,294 --> 00:10:31,364 but equally captivating feeding strategy 172 00:10:31,364 --> 00:10:32,966 known as "train feeding". 173 00:10:36,703 --> 00:10:40,240 So you can get anywhere from 2 to 20 or 200 174 00:10:40,240 --> 00:10:43,309 if there are that many, feeding together in a train, 175 00:10:43,309 --> 00:10:45,478 which is an amazing sight. 176 00:10:45,478 --> 00:10:48,081 They'll just keep going back and forth across the line 177 00:10:48,081 --> 00:10:49,983 where the plankton gets trapped. 178 00:10:49,983 --> 00:10:58,391 (♪♪♪) 179 00:10:58,391 --> 00:11:00,994 One of the largest creatures in the sea, 180 00:11:00,994 --> 00:11:04,964 mantas are also one of the most mysterious. 181 00:11:04,964 --> 00:11:07,600 Research into their mating and birthing behavior 182 00:11:07,600 --> 00:11:11,070 has barely begun. 183 00:11:11,070 --> 00:11:13,606 For hundreds of years, mantas were simply known 184 00:11:13,606 --> 00:11:17,443 as "Devil Fish" due to their imposing size 185 00:11:17,443 --> 00:11:19,379 and bat-like appearance. 186 00:11:20,847 --> 00:11:22,815 But they're very, very gentle 187 00:11:22,815 --> 00:11:24,717 like when the current's strong sometimes 188 00:11:24,717 --> 00:11:26,452 and you're taking photos or video 189 00:11:26,452 --> 00:11:28,087 it's very hard to stay out of their way, 190 00:11:28,087 --> 00:11:30,023 especially when there's that many of them. 191 00:11:30,023 --> 00:11:32,625 So when you're free diving you dive down to take a picture, 192 00:11:32,625 --> 00:11:34,027 they'll come straight at you, 193 00:11:34,027 --> 00:11:37,363 and sometimes you get thrown in their path basically. 194 00:11:37,363 --> 00:11:39,999 And they'll just very gently lift their wing 195 00:11:39,999 --> 00:11:41,701 and try not to touch you. 196 00:11:41,701 --> 00:11:43,870 They're very careful with people, which is amazing. 197 00:11:43,870 --> 00:11:46,339 They could just slap you, you know, if they wanted to. 198 00:11:49,309 --> 00:11:51,678 Mandy believes that physically tagging mantas 199 00:11:51,678 --> 00:11:54,113 can cause harm to these gentle giants. 200 00:11:57,016 --> 00:11:59,652 A manta's skin is like rubber 201 00:11:59,652 --> 00:12:03,456 and wounds can take years to heal. 202 00:12:03,456 --> 00:12:05,458 Even though they might be able to recover from it, 203 00:12:05,458 --> 00:12:06,559 it leaves scars. 204 00:12:06,559 --> 00:12:09,429 And by photographing the mantas at German Channel 205 00:12:09,429 --> 00:12:13,232 we've seen how long it can take for those scars to heal. 206 00:12:13,232 --> 00:12:15,068 By photographing them every season 207 00:12:15,068 --> 00:12:17,403 you can start seeing those results. 208 00:12:17,403 --> 00:12:20,673 So we prefer to not do actual tagging. 209 00:12:26,713 --> 00:12:28,982 Previous tagging studies enabled scientists 210 00:12:28,982 --> 00:12:31,818 to track the movement of mantas. 211 00:12:31,818 --> 00:12:34,120 Photo IDs can't do that, 212 00:12:34,120 --> 00:12:36,289 but Mandy has developed an alternative 213 00:12:36,289 --> 00:12:39,659 that is unveiling more secrets of their behavior. 214 00:12:41,894 --> 00:12:45,498 She places time-lapse cameras at the cleaning stations, 215 00:12:45,498 --> 00:12:48,501 spots on the reef where small fish rid the mantas 216 00:12:48,501 --> 00:12:50,436 of dead skin and parasites. 217 00:12:51,938 --> 00:12:54,841 It takes pictures every 10 seconds or 30 seconds 218 00:12:54,841 --> 00:12:58,211 and normally we put four or five around a cleaning station 219 00:12:58,211 --> 00:12:59,278 and then when you pick it up 220 00:12:59,278 --> 00:13:02,382 you've got thousands of pictures to go through. 221 00:13:02,382 --> 00:13:03,750 (Camera clicks) 222 00:13:03,750 --> 00:13:04,884 In the previous year, 223 00:13:04,884 --> 00:13:07,787 Mandy was able to identify 44 new mantas 224 00:13:07,787 --> 00:13:10,289 from thousands of time-lapse photos. 225 00:13:14,027 --> 00:13:16,663 It's a lot of effort, but worth it in the end. 226 00:13:18,931 --> 00:13:20,299 Because instead of acoustic tagging 227 00:13:20,299 --> 00:13:21,868 where you can just see a beep 228 00:13:21,868 --> 00:13:23,970 how many times a manta passed by, 229 00:13:23,970 --> 00:13:26,739 you can actually see the manta, what they're doing 230 00:13:26,739 --> 00:13:28,608 and learn about their behavior at the same time 231 00:13:28,608 --> 00:13:30,143 without hurting them. 232 00:13:32,045 --> 00:13:33,980 Mantas are curious creatures 233 00:13:33,980 --> 00:13:35,948 and will closely inspect the cameras 234 00:13:35,948 --> 00:13:37,550 left behind on the reef. 235 00:13:38,885 --> 00:13:40,453 When we put the time-lapse cameras 236 00:13:40,453 --> 00:13:43,289 we start realizing that they're immediately aware 237 00:13:43,289 --> 00:13:46,693 of something changing in their cleaning station 238 00:13:46,693 --> 00:13:48,094 so they come up to the cameras 239 00:13:48,094 --> 00:13:50,897 and they unfold their cephalic flaps 240 00:13:50,897 --> 00:13:53,966 which are sort of like feelers for them also. 241 00:13:53,966 --> 00:13:55,535 So they're doing like this to the camera 242 00:13:55,535 --> 00:13:56,903 to see like what is this thing 243 00:13:56,903 --> 00:13:58,471 that's sitting on my cleaning station. 244 00:13:58,471 --> 00:14:00,273 So those are the kind of things 245 00:14:00,273 --> 00:14:03,009 you would never find out any other way. 246 00:14:12,118 --> 00:14:13,553 Today at German Channel, 247 00:14:13,553 --> 00:14:16,389 one of the busiest manta sites in Palau 248 00:14:16,389 --> 00:14:18,491 there are no mantas to be seen. 249 00:14:20,860 --> 00:14:22,729 Currents, which should be incoming 250 00:14:22,729 --> 00:14:26,099 based on the moon cycle have switched to outgoing. 251 00:14:27,767 --> 00:14:30,703 Which means no plankton is flowing into the channel, 252 00:14:30,703 --> 00:14:32,672 and that means fewer mantas. 253 00:14:37,810 --> 00:14:40,179 Mandy spots something on the bottom. 254 00:14:40,179 --> 00:14:42,482 A feathertail stingray, 255 00:14:42,482 --> 00:14:44,917 buried up to its eyes in the sand. 256 00:14:48,654 --> 00:14:51,557 Finally, she sights a large male manta. 257 00:14:56,796 --> 00:15:00,733 It's one called Uncle Fester, a regular at German Channel 258 00:15:00,733 --> 00:15:02,969 that has fed here for at least 10 years. 259 00:15:06,205 --> 00:15:09,542 On this day, Mandy sights just three other mantas. 260 00:15:12,478 --> 00:15:16,949 One pregnant female already logged in the database 261 00:15:16,949 --> 00:15:18,551 and two others that passed by 262 00:15:18,551 --> 00:15:20,520 without stopping at the cleaning station. 263 00:15:25,158 --> 00:15:28,060 Mantas may be large, 264 00:15:28,060 --> 00:15:30,263 but they are dwarfed by another giant 265 00:15:30,263 --> 00:15:32,165 living in the waters of Palau, 266 00:15:35,468 --> 00:15:37,136 its barrier reef. 267 00:15:43,075 --> 00:15:46,612 Coral reefs are the world's largest living structures, 268 00:15:46,612 --> 00:15:49,715 made up of millions of tiny plant-like animals 269 00:15:49,715 --> 00:15:51,551 known as "coral polyps". 270 00:15:53,219 --> 00:15:55,822 Reefs begin when a polyp attaches itself 271 00:15:55,822 --> 00:15:58,191 to a surface on the ocean floor 272 00:15:58,191 --> 00:16:01,227 then divides into thousands of clones, 273 00:16:01,227 --> 00:16:04,163 which secrete a calcium carbonate skeleton. 274 00:16:05,932 --> 00:16:09,735 Together, the polyps act as a single, immense organism. 275 00:16:12,004 --> 00:16:14,507 Coral reefs are always growing. 276 00:16:14,507 --> 00:16:15,641 When coral dies, 277 00:16:15,641 --> 00:16:19,645 it leaves behind the rock-like skeleton. 278 00:16:19,645 --> 00:16:25,318 The next generation of coral grows on the old skeleton. 279 00:16:25,318 --> 00:16:28,187 Coral reefs are the rainforests of the sea. 280 00:16:31,390 --> 00:16:34,660 They cover fewer than 2% of the ocean floor 281 00:16:34,660 --> 00:16:36,796 and yet they provide food and shelter 282 00:16:36,796 --> 00:16:39,765 for about one-quarter of all ocean species. 283 00:16:41,801 --> 00:16:44,470 One billion people depend on coral reefs 284 00:16:44,470 --> 00:16:47,707 for food and income from fishing and tourism. 285 00:16:48,708 --> 00:16:52,678 Reefs also provide protection from hurricanes and typhoons. 286 00:16:53,813 --> 00:16:55,915 The Palau Reef believed to have formed 287 00:16:55,915 --> 00:16:58,351 about two million years ago 288 00:16:58,351 --> 00:17:01,587 may be the most essential giant in these waters. 289 00:17:08,227 --> 00:17:11,764 The bone-white beaches of the low-lying Rock Islands 290 00:17:11,764 --> 00:17:15,334 are built from sand that originated as coral. 291 00:17:19,038 --> 00:17:21,173 Reef animals like this Parrotfish 292 00:17:21,173 --> 00:17:23,075 feed on coral and algae 293 00:17:23,075 --> 00:17:25,177 that grows on the surface of the reef. 294 00:17:29,382 --> 00:17:32,985 The parrotfish's hard, beak-like teeth bite off 295 00:17:32,985 --> 00:17:36,589 not just the coral but its hard skeleton as well. 296 00:17:41,127 --> 00:17:43,129 The pulverized hard-coral material 297 00:17:43,129 --> 00:17:47,266 ingested by the fish passes through its digestive system 298 00:17:47,266 --> 00:17:49,669 and is deposited back into the ocean 299 00:17:49,669 --> 00:17:52,405 in clouds of fine white coral sand. 300 00:17:56,676 --> 00:17:59,712 One parrotfish can produce 200 pounds of sand 301 00:17:59,712 --> 00:18:01,714 in a single year. 302 00:18:06,686 --> 00:18:09,989 These Rock Islands built by coral sand 303 00:18:09,989 --> 00:18:13,759 and topped by lush and untouched Pacific jungle 304 00:18:13,759 --> 00:18:16,495 are a major tourist draw. 305 00:18:16,495 --> 00:18:24,103 (♪♪♪) 306 00:18:24,103 --> 00:18:28,507 Palau is a country of just 20,000 people. 307 00:18:28,507 --> 00:18:34,113 In 2015, it received more than 150,000 visitors. 308 00:18:37,350 --> 00:18:40,619 This tiny island nation is struggling to find a balance 309 00:18:40,619 --> 00:18:43,222 between the profit tourism generates 310 00:18:43,222 --> 00:18:45,224 and its impact on the reef. 311 00:18:47,860 --> 00:18:50,696 You know, if you have one or two people 312 00:18:50,696 --> 00:18:52,498 and they go there and they do a little bit of damage, 313 00:18:52,498 --> 00:18:53,632 it's not a big deal. 314 00:18:53,632 --> 00:18:56,102 But if you have thousands and thousands of people 315 00:18:56,102 --> 00:18:58,838 doing that every day, then eventually 316 00:18:58,838 --> 00:19:03,376 we would destroy the corals and destroy the structure. 317 00:19:03,376 --> 00:19:06,879 The research we're doing is to look at these sites 318 00:19:06,879 --> 00:19:08,781 that are visited by tourists 319 00:19:08,781 --> 00:19:13,486 and try to look at their impact on the reef communities, 320 00:19:13,486 --> 00:19:16,055 including the corals and the fish and the animals 321 00:19:16,055 --> 00:19:17,757 that live around the reef. 322 00:19:17,757 --> 00:19:32,438 (♪♪♪) 323 00:19:32,438 --> 00:19:35,374 Today we're trying to look to see the impacts of snorkelers 324 00:19:35,374 --> 00:19:37,476 on shallow coral reefs. 325 00:19:37,476 --> 00:19:40,546 So with Palau's tourism boom 326 00:19:40,546 --> 00:19:42,248 we've seen an increase of tourists 327 00:19:42,248 --> 00:19:44,116 on our snorkeling reefs 328 00:19:44,116 --> 00:19:46,585 and a lot of them have as we've noticed 329 00:19:46,585 --> 00:19:48,788 have very little or little confident 330 00:19:48,788 --> 00:19:49,889 swimming skills. 331 00:19:49,889 --> 00:19:50,856 So we want to see 332 00:19:50,856 --> 00:19:54,226 if that has any impact on the corals 333 00:19:54,226 --> 00:19:57,029 and if they're breaking corals or standing on them 334 00:19:57,029 --> 00:19:58,564 and the effects of that. 335 00:20:03,235 --> 00:20:06,272 To determine the health of the coral at this site, 336 00:20:06,272 --> 00:20:11,277 Evelyn uses a sampling square, called a quadrat. 337 00:20:11,277 --> 00:20:15,314 She throws it randomly, 50 to 60 times at a given site. 338 00:20:18,217 --> 00:20:20,686 When the quadrat lands on the lagoon floor, 339 00:20:20,686 --> 00:20:23,022 she photographs the area within the frame. 340 00:20:26,559 --> 00:20:30,129 Researchers study the photos for evidence of coral damage 341 00:20:30,129 --> 00:20:34,366 and compare the sample photos taken at busy snorkeling sites 342 00:20:34,366 --> 00:20:37,203 With those taken at sites untouched by tourists. 343 00:20:40,673 --> 00:20:43,476 Initial research by Dr. Golbuu's team reveals 344 00:20:43,476 --> 00:20:46,112 that the reefs at crowded snorkeling sites 345 00:20:46,112 --> 00:20:49,148 are dominated by broken coral 346 00:20:49,148 --> 00:20:54,153 which seriously threatens the health of the reef. 347 00:20:54,153 --> 00:20:58,390 But the team is studying more than just corals today. 348 00:20:58,390 --> 00:21:01,393 Gary is going to be counting fish today. 349 00:21:01,393 --> 00:21:04,130 He's one of our experts at the Coral Reef Center. 350 00:21:04,130 --> 00:21:06,665 He knows a lot of our fish species. 351 00:21:06,665 --> 00:21:09,034 The common names, their Palauan names, 352 00:21:09,034 --> 00:21:10,803 as well as their Latin names. 353 00:21:10,803 --> 00:21:12,438 So what he will do is 354 00:21:12,438 --> 00:21:15,841 he will go and measure any fish 355 00:21:15,841 --> 00:21:19,078 that comes within five-meter radius of him. 356 00:21:19,078 --> 00:21:21,614 It's what we call a stationary fish count. 357 00:21:21,614 --> 00:21:24,116 So he'll stay in one spot for 3 minutes 358 00:21:24,116 --> 00:21:26,152 and he'll count any commercially important fish 359 00:21:26,152 --> 00:21:29,188 that comes in that five meter-radius 360 00:21:29,188 --> 00:21:31,690 and then write down their sizes in centimeters. 361 00:21:34,360 --> 00:21:36,629 The fish count, like the reef survey, 362 00:21:36,629 --> 00:21:40,266 is designed to assess the impact of tourism on the lagoon. 363 00:21:43,135 --> 00:21:44,603 Although it's prohibited, 364 00:21:44,603 --> 00:21:46,906 tour operators have been known to feed fish 365 00:21:46,906 --> 00:21:49,608 to attract them to tourist snorkeling sites. 366 00:21:53,212 --> 00:21:56,916 Hand-feeding fish makes them associate humans with food 367 00:21:56,916 --> 00:22:00,219 and can interfere with their natural feeding cycles. 368 00:22:02,454 --> 00:22:05,558 This study will help determine the effect fish feeding has had 369 00:22:05,558 --> 00:22:07,826 on both the size and numbers of fish 370 00:22:07,826 --> 00:22:12,298 in the lagoon. 371 00:22:12,298 --> 00:22:15,401 On a global level, coral reefs face a threat 372 00:22:15,401 --> 00:22:19,004 far greater than tourism. 373 00:22:19,004 --> 00:22:21,140 Ocean acidification. 374 00:22:24,944 --> 00:22:26,612 Humans have produced more and more 375 00:22:26,612 --> 00:22:28,514 carbon dioxide emissions 376 00:22:28,514 --> 00:22:30,482 through the burning of fossil fuels. 377 00:22:35,654 --> 00:22:37,990 More than one-quarter of carbon dioxide 378 00:22:37,990 --> 00:22:41,994 pumped into the atmosphere is dissolved into the oceans 379 00:22:41,994 --> 00:22:44,396 where it upsets the chemical balance 380 00:22:44,396 --> 00:22:46,432 making water more acidic. 381 00:22:49,335 --> 00:22:52,504 This acidification threatens the survival of the animals 382 00:22:52,504 --> 00:22:54,673 on the reef. 383 00:22:54,673 --> 00:22:57,209 The skeletons of most marine organisms, 384 00:22:57,209 --> 00:23:01,847 including crustaceans and fish are made from calcium carbonate. 385 00:23:02,948 --> 00:23:05,417 If the acidity of the water increases, 386 00:23:05,417 --> 00:23:08,621 there are fewer carbonate ions in the water 387 00:23:08,621 --> 00:23:10,522 and it becomes harder for these animals 388 00:23:10,522 --> 00:23:11,957 to form a skeleton. 389 00:23:12,958 --> 00:23:14,927 Acidity can be increased to the point 390 00:23:14,927 --> 00:23:18,497 where even coral can no longer make a skeleton. 391 00:23:20,232 --> 00:23:23,569 Even before that stage, the struggle to make a skeleton 392 00:23:23,569 --> 00:23:27,773 can leave coral weak and vulnerable. 393 00:23:27,773 --> 00:23:30,309 So you might have a coral, but it's not strong, 394 00:23:30,309 --> 00:23:33,345 like, a little storm and it would break. 395 00:23:33,345 --> 00:23:36,048 Or, you would have very high bio-erosion. 396 00:23:36,048 --> 00:23:38,584 A lot of other organisms will be able to live inside 397 00:23:38,584 --> 00:23:41,520 and break the skeleton of the coral. 398 00:23:41,520 --> 00:23:44,890 It's yet another threat on the Palau Barrier Reef 399 00:23:44,890 --> 00:23:48,727 that was already stressed by reckless overfishing. 400 00:23:50,929 --> 00:23:53,332 For decades, foreign fishing vessels 401 00:23:53,332 --> 00:23:55,501 plundered these seas, 402 00:23:55,501 --> 00:23:58,404 brutally raking fish from the reef. 403 00:23:58,404 --> 00:24:01,140 The reef is an ecosystem 404 00:24:01,140 --> 00:24:03,509 and you need corals and you need fish 405 00:24:03,509 --> 00:24:06,512 and if you take all the fish from the system, 406 00:24:06,512 --> 00:24:07,880 then you will affect the reefs. 407 00:24:07,880 --> 00:24:09,581 It will affect its health, 408 00:24:09,581 --> 00:24:11,950 and its recovery from disturbance. 409 00:24:11,950 --> 00:24:14,553 And so that is one of the main issues 410 00:24:14,553 --> 00:24:16,922 that we need to ensure that 411 00:24:16,922 --> 00:24:18,824 we still have enough fish in the reef 412 00:24:18,824 --> 00:24:21,794 to allow the reef function to continue. 413 00:24:21,794 --> 00:24:31,837 (♪♪♪) 414 00:24:31,837 --> 00:24:37,176 (♪♪♪) 415 00:24:37,176 --> 00:24:40,579 Not all of Palau's reefs are two million years old. 416 00:24:42,781 --> 00:24:44,950 Some are relative youngsters 417 00:24:44,950 --> 00:24:48,554 that can be traced back just 70 years, 418 00:24:48,554 --> 00:24:52,825 to a time when battles raged over Palau's tropical skies. 419 00:24:59,264 --> 00:25:01,667 At the bottom of Malakal Harbor 420 00:25:01,667 --> 00:25:05,437 a massive, broken skeleton appears slowly from the blue. 421 00:25:09,675 --> 00:25:13,412 It is the Iro, a Japanese navy tanker 422 00:25:13,412 --> 00:25:16,448 that met its doom during the Second World War 423 00:25:16,448 --> 00:25:19,051 when US airplanes rained explosives 424 00:25:19,051 --> 00:25:20,686 on the Japanese fleet. 425 00:25:28,427 --> 00:25:30,829 Over the decades, the Iro has transformed 426 00:25:30,829 --> 00:25:33,532 into an artificial reef. 427 00:25:33,532 --> 00:25:38,170 Providing shelter for prey, food for predators, 428 00:25:38,170 --> 00:25:41,673 and a breeding ground for the hard and soft corals 429 00:25:41,673 --> 00:25:44,309 that have taken hold of the ship. 430 00:25:46,111 --> 00:25:48,781 She's a spectacular wreck to dive now. 431 00:25:48,781 --> 00:25:51,517 She is teeming with life 432 00:25:51,517 --> 00:25:53,685 and it's just an amazing wreck dive 433 00:25:53,685 --> 00:25:55,954 because you have all that history. 434 00:25:55,954 --> 00:25:58,991 You have all that drama of the sinking of the vessel 435 00:25:58,991 --> 00:26:01,527 and now, 70 years-plus years later, 436 00:26:01,527 --> 00:26:03,328 you look at it and it's just the most 437 00:26:03,328 --> 00:26:06,632 beautiful, spectacular reef there is around there. 438 00:26:09,535 --> 00:26:12,638 The Iro sits upright in its watery grave, 439 00:26:12,638 --> 00:26:15,574 130 feet below the surface. 440 00:26:19,545 --> 00:26:24,082 It's a colossal wreck, nearly 500 feet long, 441 00:26:24,082 --> 00:26:26,852 weighing upwards of 14,000 tons. 442 00:26:28,353 --> 00:26:32,357 And remains largely intact, except for the damage caused 443 00:26:32,357 --> 00:26:34,960 when a massive explosion in the engine room 444 00:26:34,960 --> 00:26:36,962 sent the ship to the bottom. 445 00:26:40,532 --> 00:26:44,303 On the bow, sits a turret gun, 446 00:26:44,303 --> 00:26:48,340 its barrel and armored shield draped in soft coral. 447 00:26:52,845 --> 00:26:56,782 Wrecks like the Iro provide a stable setting for coral. 448 00:26:59,585 --> 00:27:02,254 Corals spawn in the water column. 449 00:27:02,254 --> 00:27:05,524 Eggs are carried by the current and can land anywhere. 450 00:27:08,560 --> 00:27:11,296 The shallow depth, warm water, 451 00:27:11,296 --> 00:27:13,899 and relative stillness of this lagoon 452 00:27:13,899 --> 00:27:16,668 make an ideal breeding ground for the algae 453 00:27:16,668 --> 00:27:18,904 that cements coral reefs together. 454 00:27:23,909 --> 00:27:27,546 The Iro is alive with stony staghorn coral. 455 00:27:32,384 --> 00:27:34,453 Ivory tube sponges. 456 00:27:39,658 --> 00:27:41,827 And black coral trees. 457 00:27:46,698 --> 00:27:50,269 Fish make their home on or near the wreck as well. 458 00:27:53,405 --> 00:27:54,840 Clouds of fry... 459 00:27:58,844 --> 00:28:00,379 Lionfish... 460 00:28:03,849 --> 00:28:06,118 And Pacific spadefish. 461 00:28:11,623 --> 00:28:14,593 Three masts reach toward a distant sky 462 00:28:14,593 --> 00:28:20,866 and provide an ideal surface for sun-seeking organisms, 463 00:28:20,866 --> 00:28:24,002 including huge colonies of bubble tip anemones. 464 00:28:29,107 --> 00:28:31,977 A close relative of both jellyfish and coral 465 00:28:31,977 --> 00:28:33,579 the bubble tip anemone is equipped 466 00:28:33,579 --> 00:28:36,281 with sweeping venom-filled tentacles 467 00:28:36,281 --> 00:28:38,450 that ensnare passing prey. 468 00:28:43,021 --> 00:28:45,691 The slightest touch triggers the tentacles 469 00:28:45,691 --> 00:28:48,293 which inject a paralyzing neurotoxin 470 00:28:48,293 --> 00:28:49,928 into its victim. 471 00:28:51,463 --> 00:28:55,801 But not to the tomato clownfish nestled inside its tentacles. 472 00:28:56,768 --> 00:29:00,072 To defend itself and ensure it has enough to eat, 473 00:29:00,072 --> 00:29:03,308 the bubble tip anemone forms an unlikely alliance. 474 00:29:05,944 --> 00:29:08,981 A layer of mucus on the clownfish's skin 475 00:29:08,981 --> 00:29:11,917 makes it immune to the anemone's lethal sting. 476 00:29:15,587 --> 00:29:17,990 It's a symbiotic relationship, 477 00:29:17,990 --> 00:29:19,825 the anemone protects the clownfish 478 00:29:19,825 --> 00:29:21,193 from predators, 479 00:29:21,193 --> 00:29:24,096 and snacks on its leftover meals. 480 00:29:25,697 --> 00:29:28,967 In return, the clownfish drives off intruders 481 00:29:28,967 --> 00:29:31,503 and cleans the anemone of parasites. 482 00:29:38,010 --> 00:29:41,813 The coral-encrusted Iro is just one of more than 60 483 00:29:41,813 --> 00:29:44,249 Second World War wrecks in Palau. 484 00:29:48,286 --> 00:29:50,422 In March 1944, 485 00:29:50,422 --> 00:29:54,359 US Navy planes appeared high above the islands 486 00:29:54,359 --> 00:29:58,463 bombarding the Japanese fleet with rockets and torpedoes 487 00:29:58,463 --> 00:30:00,999 and sending most of its vessels to the bottom. 488 00:30:05,837 --> 00:30:08,240 The coordinated attack was code-named 489 00:30:08,240 --> 00:30:10,842 "Operation Desecrate One". 490 00:30:13,178 --> 00:30:17,115 In September, 1944, the Island of Peleliu 491 00:30:17,115 --> 00:30:19,584 was the scene of one of the bloodiest battles 492 00:30:19,584 --> 00:30:21,853 of the Second World War. 493 00:30:21,853 --> 00:30:24,322 US marines made an amphibious assault 494 00:30:24,322 --> 00:30:25,590 on these beaches 495 00:30:25,590 --> 00:30:28,627 to liberate the island from Japanese forces. 496 00:30:30,362 --> 00:30:32,898 Fighting lasted for months and took the lives 497 00:30:32,898 --> 00:30:36,968 of 10,000 Japanese and 1,800 American soldiers. 498 00:30:39,871 --> 00:30:43,141 Today the island is surreally peaceful. 499 00:30:43,141 --> 00:30:45,877 Although scattered amid the lush vegetation 500 00:30:45,877 --> 00:30:51,283 are the reminders of past horrors. 501 00:30:51,283 --> 00:30:53,618 A crippled Japanese fighter plane 502 00:30:53,618 --> 00:30:55,153 reclaimed by the jungle. 503 00:30:58,757 --> 00:31:01,426 A gutted US marine landing craft, 504 00:31:01,426 --> 00:31:03,128 corroded by the elements. 505 00:31:05,397 --> 00:31:08,233 And sobering memorials to the thousands, 506 00:31:08,233 --> 00:31:12,070 Japanese and American, that spent their final moments 507 00:31:12,070 --> 00:31:14,840 on what was once an island paradise. 508 00:31:23,548 --> 00:31:26,551 Francis Toribiong is a native Palauan 509 00:31:26,551 --> 00:31:29,554 who grew up on the islands in the years following the war. 510 00:31:35,193 --> 00:31:38,463 He founded Palau's first dive operation 511 00:31:38,463 --> 00:31:40,031 and in the 1980s, 512 00:31:40,031 --> 00:31:43,468 helped discover more than 30 Japanese wrecks... 513 00:31:47,072 --> 00:31:50,876 Including the 285-foot-long Chuyo Maru. 514 00:31:56,882 --> 00:31:59,317 Like the Iro, it sits upright 515 00:31:59,317 --> 00:32:02,220 and is overgrown with corals, sponges 516 00:32:02,220 --> 00:32:03,221 and oysters. 517 00:32:09,094 --> 00:32:11,630 The Chuyo Maru was a coastal freighter, 518 00:32:11,630 --> 00:32:16,401 sent to the bottom during Operation Desecrate One 519 00:32:16,401 --> 00:32:19,905 and discovered by Toribiong in 1989. 520 00:32:23,141 --> 00:32:26,144 I follow the line down and there's nothing there. 521 00:32:26,144 --> 00:32:27,813 I turn around, 522 00:32:27,813 --> 00:32:31,483 there's a huge monster wreck behind me. 523 00:32:31,483 --> 00:32:34,085 My heart went whoomp. 524 00:32:34,085 --> 00:32:35,687 I got scared. 525 00:32:35,687 --> 00:32:37,722 Actually I got a little bit scared 526 00:32:37,722 --> 00:32:40,826 because it's a huge thing right behind me. 527 00:32:40,826 --> 00:32:43,428 I did not see it because I was going down this way. 528 00:32:44,996 --> 00:32:46,164 That was exciting. 529 00:32:46,164 --> 00:32:51,603 I mean that completely changed my way of diving. 530 00:32:51,603 --> 00:32:53,538 Today when I take people diving 531 00:32:53,538 --> 00:32:57,242 I don't try to explain everything. 532 00:32:57,242 --> 00:33:01,179 I talk about safety, the depth, time, 533 00:33:01,179 --> 00:33:03,114 and how we go around this way 534 00:33:03,114 --> 00:33:05,150 and I tell them that's good enough. 535 00:33:05,150 --> 00:33:07,319 I don't want to go beyond that. 536 00:33:07,319 --> 00:33:08,453 Why? 537 00:33:08,453 --> 00:33:12,157 I say I want you to have that excitement like I do. 538 00:33:14,292 --> 00:33:16,561 I want you to have that feeling. 539 00:33:16,561 --> 00:33:20,098 It's hard to explain, but when things are in the water 540 00:33:20,098 --> 00:33:24,636 for last 50-some years, 70 years, 541 00:33:24,636 --> 00:33:30,342 and then the first time you go it's a really exciting dive. 542 00:33:37,449 --> 00:33:40,118 The Chuyo Maru shares its watery grave 543 00:33:40,118 --> 00:33:41,720 with a mystery ship. 544 00:33:45,423 --> 00:33:47,926 Its true name remains unknown, 545 00:33:47,926 --> 00:33:49,661 no records of the ship can be found 546 00:33:49,661 --> 00:33:52,330 in Japanese navy archives. 547 00:33:52,330 --> 00:33:54,699 Though like most wrecks in Palau 548 00:33:54,699 --> 00:33:57,636 it was sunk along with most of the Japanese fleet 549 00:33:57,636 --> 00:33:59,838 during Operation Desecrate One. 550 00:34:04,242 --> 00:34:07,412 Today, it's known simply as the Helmet Wreck, 551 00:34:07,412 --> 00:34:10,649 or Depth Charge Wreck for the dozens of bombs 552 00:34:10,649 --> 00:34:12,450 found in its hold. 553 00:34:14,552 --> 00:34:18,590 Divers are warned not to touch any of the charges. 554 00:34:18,590 --> 00:34:22,093 Many of Palau's wrecks are laden with live ammunition 555 00:34:22,093 --> 00:34:25,030 that can explode if disturbed. 556 00:34:25,030 --> 00:34:28,033 In fact, it's illegal for divers to take anything 557 00:34:28,033 --> 00:34:30,635 from Palau's sunken historical treasures. 558 00:34:32,037 --> 00:34:34,039 The Depth Charge Wreck is a trove 559 00:34:34,039 --> 00:34:36,207 of Second World War artifacts. 560 00:34:37,342 --> 00:34:40,679 The cylinder poking out of the wreck is a clinometer 561 00:34:40,679 --> 00:34:42,981 used to measure the height of clouds 562 00:34:42,981 --> 00:34:45,150 to predict incoming storms. 563 00:34:48,320 --> 00:34:50,855 These Sake bottles 564 00:34:50,855 --> 00:34:53,725 and a corroded Japanese gas mask 565 00:34:53,725 --> 00:34:56,661 are grim reminders that men died here 566 00:34:56,661 --> 00:35:00,031 in what is now a living museum of the sea. 567 00:35:01,466 --> 00:35:04,903 When I take the Japanese diving there 568 00:35:04,903 --> 00:35:06,438 I can see they have a goose bump. 569 00:35:08,540 --> 00:35:11,076 They tell me a little bit eerie. 570 00:35:13,578 --> 00:35:15,814 That's the way they do, I respect that. 571 00:35:15,814 --> 00:35:18,450 It's a part of history 572 00:35:18,450 --> 00:35:21,786 and part of our relationship with Japan 573 00:35:21,786 --> 00:35:24,923 and something that people need to understand 574 00:35:24,923 --> 00:35:27,092 that we need to respect other people. 575 00:35:28,560 --> 00:35:31,663 These once-mighty wrecks won't last forever. 576 00:35:32,731 --> 00:35:36,534 Saltwater corrodes and eats away at the steel skeletons. 577 00:35:38,603 --> 00:35:42,040 Eventually, the lagoon will swallow these remains. 578 00:35:49,848 --> 00:35:54,519 Over the eons, saltwater erosion has also carved stunning caverns 579 00:35:54,519 --> 00:35:57,555 and tunnels into Palau's limestone geography. 580 00:35:57,555 --> 00:36:05,330 (♪♪♪) 581 00:36:05,330 --> 00:36:08,133 Hidden 12 feet below the surface 582 00:36:08,133 --> 00:36:11,369 Chandelier Cave is one of the largest cave systems 583 00:36:11,369 --> 00:36:12,537 in Palau. 584 00:36:15,073 --> 00:36:17,876 At one time, it was an open-air cave, 585 00:36:17,876 --> 00:36:20,078 on the surface of the Rock Islands. 586 00:36:23,481 --> 00:36:26,785 After the last ice age, oceans rose 587 00:36:26,785 --> 00:36:30,188 filling the cave with seawater and concealing the entrance. 588 00:36:34,259 --> 00:36:37,095 Stalactites, formed from calcite 589 00:36:37,095 --> 00:36:40,899 deposited by water dripping from the cave ceiling, 590 00:36:40,899 --> 00:36:43,334 hang like glittering light fixtures, 591 00:36:43,334 --> 00:36:45,603 giving Chandelier Cave its name. 592 00:36:49,274 --> 00:36:51,776 Inside the cave there is no sunlight 593 00:36:51,776 --> 00:36:53,111 to nourish plankton. 594 00:36:57,082 --> 00:36:59,484 Free from these microscopic organisms, 595 00:36:59,484 --> 00:37:01,553 the water is crystal clear. 596 00:37:10,728 --> 00:37:14,365 At Siaes Tunnel divers drop down 597 00:37:14,365 --> 00:37:16,367 to enter a chamber that reaches depths 598 00:37:16,367 --> 00:37:19,170 of more than 140 feet. 599 00:37:19,170 --> 00:37:26,744 (♪♪♪) 600 00:37:26,744 --> 00:37:28,847 Even this far below the surface 601 00:37:28,847 --> 00:37:31,015 sunlight penetrates the tunnel 602 00:37:31,015 --> 00:37:37,355 to illuminate gorgeous orange sea fans 603 00:37:37,355 --> 00:37:40,325 and lionfish nibbling on soft corals. 604 00:37:46,564 --> 00:37:50,201 Palau is a jumping-off point for some of the deepest diving 605 00:37:50,201 --> 00:37:51,336 in the Pacific. 606 00:37:52,604 --> 00:37:56,007 It sits atop what is essentially a sunken mountain range. 607 00:37:59,077 --> 00:38:03,148 A steep drop-off, more than 30,000 feet deep 608 00:38:03,148 --> 00:38:04,682 fringes the islands. 609 00:38:06,317 --> 00:38:08,686 This is The Palau Trench. 610 00:38:09,754 --> 00:38:13,691 It just drops off and it plummets into the abyss 611 00:38:13,691 --> 00:38:15,793 and very, very close to shore as well. 612 00:38:15,793 --> 00:38:17,862 So people always talk about the Marianas Trench, 613 00:38:17,862 --> 00:38:19,364 the deepest part of the planet. 614 00:38:19,364 --> 00:38:20,899 That's a challenger deep. 615 00:38:20,899 --> 00:38:23,234 That's nearly 300 kilometers off shore. 616 00:38:23,234 --> 00:38:25,170 We've got massively deep water 617 00:38:25,170 --> 00:38:28,173 within 15 or 20 kilometers of our shoreline. 618 00:38:28,173 --> 00:38:30,441 So it's very, very unique. 619 00:38:32,343 --> 00:38:34,245 The Palau Trench is deep enough 620 00:38:34,245 --> 00:38:36,848 to completely submerge Mount Everest. 621 00:38:39,951 --> 00:38:44,222 Scuba divers typically descend about 130 feet, 622 00:38:44,222 --> 00:38:47,559 less than half of 1% of the depth of the trench. 623 00:38:50,328 --> 00:38:53,598 Divers have only just scratched it's surface. 624 00:38:55,033 --> 00:38:57,735 What is known about what's down the Palau Trench? 625 00:38:57,735 --> 00:39:00,305 Honestly very, very little. 626 00:39:00,305 --> 00:39:02,574 The old phrase that we've all heard that 627 00:39:02,574 --> 00:39:05,210 "We know more about the surface of the moon and Mars 628 00:39:05,210 --> 00:39:08,479 than we know about the bottom of the ocean" holds true. 629 00:39:10,348 --> 00:39:13,518 Collins has compiled a 3D map of the trench 630 00:39:13,518 --> 00:39:15,653 from satellite-derived gravity data 631 00:39:15,653 --> 00:39:18,923 and sonar measurements collected on dives. 632 00:39:18,923 --> 00:39:21,192 The green shows the Palau islands 633 00:39:21,192 --> 00:39:25,196 just the tip of a massive underwater mountain. 634 00:39:25,196 --> 00:39:28,766 You can see that some of these sheer walls, 635 00:39:28,766 --> 00:39:31,169 they plummet miles, literally miles, 636 00:39:31,169 --> 00:39:34,439 two or three miles before they might have a slight shelf 637 00:39:34,439 --> 00:39:36,674 and another feature and, again, 638 00:39:36,674 --> 00:39:39,711 before they just plummet into the abyssal plain 639 00:39:39,711 --> 00:39:43,114 at over 9,000 meters deep. 640 00:39:43,114 --> 00:39:45,516 Once we look over the edge of that reef, 641 00:39:45,516 --> 00:39:48,319 sometimes it's a little daunting 642 00:39:48,319 --> 00:39:50,221 because you have the beautiful colors, 643 00:39:50,221 --> 00:39:52,991 the shallow waters, and you just look over 644 00:39:52,991 --> 00:39:55,660 and it's literally looking down a cliff. 645 00:39:56,661 --> 00:39:59,397 And especially knowing how deep that is. 646 00:39:59,397 --> 00:40:01,466 So sometime it can be a little bit daunting 647 00:40:01,466 --> 00:40:04,936 and a little bit disorientating but it's also a bit thrilling. 648 00:40:19,450 --> 00:40:22,587 A short boat ride from Siaes Tunnel 649 00:40:22,587 --> 00:40:25,890 lies a marine environment so spectacular 650 00:40:25,890 --> 00:40:28,860 it's considered one of the seven underwater wonders 651 00:40:28,860 --> 00:40:29,994 of the world. 652 00:40:33,865 --> 00:40:37,135 Palau is home to more than 50 marine lakes. 653 00:40:39,170 --> 00:40:42,140 When glaciers melted at the end of the last ice age 654 00:40:42,140 --> 00:40:44,175 10,000 years ago 655 00:40:44,175 --> 00:40:46,077 ocean levels rose, 656 00:40:46,077 --> 00:40:48,746 filling low-lying areas with seawater. 657 00:40:52,450 --> 00:40:54,852 Fissures and tunnels in the limestone 658 00:40:54,852 --> 00:40:57,555 connect these saltwater lakes to the ocean. 659 00:41:01,893 --> 00:41:05,930 Beneath the surface of a 100-foot-deep marine lake 660 00:41:05,930 --> 00:41:09,600 on the uninhabited coral island of Eil Malik 661 00:41:09,600 --> 00:41:11,302 is an astonishing sight. 662 00:41:11,302 --> 00:41:19,110 (♪♪♪) 663 00:41:19,110 --> 00:41:24,982 Millions of rippling jellyfish pack the fluorescent-green water 664 00:41:24,982 --> 00:41:28,086 their shimmering bodies casting a luminescent glow. 665 00:41:29,821 --> 00:41:32,056 This is Jellyfish Lake. 666 00:41:34,492 --> 00:41:36,961 These golden jellyfish have thrived in the lake 667 00:41:36,961 --> 00:41:38,863 for more than 10,000 years. 668 00:41:41,966 --> 00:41:45,169 In this closed system, there are few predators. 669 00:41:45,169 --> 00:41:48,106 So the jellyfish have lost their need to sting. 670 00:41:50,308 --> 00:41:52,744 They possess stinging cells, 671 00:41:52,744 --> 00:41:57,315 just not ones powerful enough to cause serious harm to humans. 672 00:41:57,315 --> 00:42:00,051 Getting to swim through that many jellyfish 673 00:42:00,051 --> 00:42:03,955 is a pretty weird but wonderful experience. 674 00:42:03,955 --> 00:42:06,057 When you find a very dense patch of them, 675 00:42:06,057 --> 00:42:08,893 the whole lake is essentially pulsating with these jellyfish 676 00:42:08,893 --> 00:42:10,428 so it's very cool to see. 677 00:42:11,596 --> 00:42:12,630 They're not harmful, 678 00:42:12,630 --> 00:42:13,998 unless you have very sensitive skin. 679 00:42:13,998 --> 00:42:15,867 They're very soft, 680 00:42:15,867 --> 00:42:18,035 they're just doing their own thing cruising along. 681 00:42:21,072 --> 00:42:23,908 There's another, even more remarkable way 682 00:42:23,908 --> 00:42:27,078 in which these jellyfish differ from their cousins 683 00:42:27,078 --> 00:42:29,547 in Palau's nearby ocean lagoons. 684 00:42:31,149 --> 00:42:34,685 Most species of jellyfish, like this moon jelly, 685 00:42:34,685 --> 00:42:37,555 drift serenely on ocean currents 686 00:42:37,555 --> 00:42:39,157 just as their ancestors have 687 00:42:39,157 --> 00:42:41,526 since before the age of the dinosaurs. 688 00:42:44,462 --> 00:42:47,498 The five million specimens at Jellyfish Lake 689 00:42:47,498 --> 00:42:49,567 are far from passive. 690 00:42:50,668 --> 00:42:53,271 They may look like their drifting aimlessly 691 00:42:53,271 --> 00:42:56,808 but in fact they're on a journey. 692 00:42:56,808 --> 00:42:59,377 Migrating almost a mile, 693 00:42:59,377 --> 00:43:03,548 they follow the same path and same schedule every day. 694 00:43:04,916 --> 00:43:06,984 As the sun rises in the east, 695 00:43:06,984 --> 00:43:10,354 the jellyfish swim toward its life-giving rays. 696 00:43:11,389 --> 00:43:15,393 They have to make the trek, to survive. 697 00:43:15,393 --> 00:43:19,130 The body of each jellyfish contains a crop of algae, 698 00:43:19,130 --> 00:43:20,898 its main source of food. 699 00:43:22,800 --> 00:43:25,803 The algae processes sunlight to produce sugar 700 00:43:25,803 --> 00:43:27,705 that feeds the jellyfish. 701 00:43:29,407 --> 00:43:33,277 For hours, they swim east toward the sun 702 00:43:33,277 --> 00:43:35,279 pumping water through their bells, 703 00:43:35,279 --> 00:43:37,548 and rotating counter-clockwise 704 00:43:37,548 --> 00:43:40,184 to provide even exposure to the sun 705 00:43:40,184 --> 00:43:41,919 for the algae in their bodies. 706 00:43:43,588 --> 00:43:45,923 Trees that surround and shelter the lake 707 00:43:45,923 --> 00:43:49,494 also cast shadows on the surface. 708 00:43:49,494 --> 00:43:51,662 The jellyfish must avoid the shade. 709 00:43:53,130 --> 00:43:56,200 They need to absorb as much sunlight as possible 710 00:43:56,200 --> 00:43:59,337 to maximize the energy created by the algae 711 00:43:59,337 --> 00:44:01,272 within their bells. 712 00:44:01,272 --> 00:44:03,908 So what they do is they follow the sun around the lake 713 00:44:03,908 --> 00:44:05,710 so at a given time during the day 714 00:44:05,710 --> 00:44:07,812 they'll be in the brightest spot of the lake 715 00:44:07,812 --> 00:44:09,180 finding the most food. 716 00:44:11,949 --> 00:44:14,719 As the sun begins to set in the west, 717 00:44:14,719 --> 00:44:17,989 the dense bloom of jellyfish reverses course 718 00:44:17,989 --> 00:44:20,124 and heads back to the western shore. 719 00:44:21,859 --> 00:44:25,229 All this swimming churns up nutrients in the water 720 00:44:25,229 --> 00:44:28,099 that form the base of the lake's food chain. 721 00:44:30,568 --> 00:44:33,271 When the sun disappears into the horizon, 722 00:44:33,271 --> 00:44:36,440 the jellyfish sink 50 feet down, 723 00:44:36,440 --> 00:44:39,877 where nitrogen-rich waters help sustain the algae 724 00:44:39,877 --> 00:44:41,612 in their bodies, 725 00:44:41,612 --> 00:44:44,815 before ascending to the surface before dawn 726 00:44:44,815 --> 00:44:48,352 to start their complex migration once more. 727 00:44:52,690 --> 00:44:55,192 Of Palau's 52 marine lakes, 728 00:44:55,192 --> 00:44:57,595 five are home to persistent populations 729 00:44:57,595 --> 00:44:59,163 of golden jellyfish. 730 00:45:02,867 --> 00:45:05,002 Fragile creatures, they have shown 731 00:45:05,002 --> 00:45:10,408 an outstanding ability to adapt in these land-locked lakes, 732 00:45:10,408 --> 00:45:13,411 lakes that were once connected to the ocean 733 00:45:13,411 --> 00:45:17,915 that defines and sustains this tiny island nation. 734 00:45:17,915 --> 00:45:24,322 (♪♪♪) 735 00:45:24,322 --> 00:45:26,090 For thousands of years, 736 00:45:26,090 --> 00:45:28,926 Palauans have depended on their coral reef 737 00:45:28,926 --> 00:45:30,795 for survival. 738 00:45:30,795 --> 00:45:34,165 It's such a diverse habitat. 739 00:45:34,165 --> 00:45:35,266 So if we lose that, 740 00:45:35,266 --> 00:45:37,301 we've really lost a lot of our ocean, 741 00:45:37,301 --> 00:45:40,972 a lot of the biodiversity in our ocean. 742 00:45:40,972 --> 00:45:43,174 Billions of people live near the coast 743 00:45:43,174 --> 00:45:45,743 and they depend on coral reefs, so all of those. 744 00:45:45,743 --> 00:45:49,680 And especially us on these small islands, 745 00:45:49,680 --> 00:45:52,650 we would be severely affected 746 00:45:52,650 --> 00:45:55,853 and our way of life, you know, it's totally changed. 747 00:45:55,853 --> 00:46:00,625 It would be a devastation to us, you know, not to have the reef. 748 00:46:06,230 --> 00:46:09,033 These Pacific islanders hold to traditions 749 00:46:09,033 --> 00:46:12,069 of deep respect for the sea. 750 00:46:12,069 --> 00:46:15,506 Yesterday, one of my customer asked me, 751 00:46:15,506 --> 00:46:17,074 "Francis, don't you get tired 752 00:46:17,074 --> 00:46:19,777 of coming out here in the ocean?" 753 00:46:19,777 --> 00:46:23,114 And I said: "It's amazing." 754 00:46:23,114 --> 00:46:27,852 Not one day is the same as another day, never the same. 755 00:46:27,852 --> 00:46:31,889 The cloud, the sun, the rain, the wind, 756 00:46:31,889 --> 00:46:35,693 the tide, the movement. 757 00:46:35,693 --> 00:46:38,729 "So never the same so that's why 758 00:46:38,729 --> 00:46:41,065 I don't get tired of going to the ocean." 759 00:46:43,367 --> 00:46:45,469 In these protected waters 760 00:46:45,469 --> 00:46:48,773 that contain more species of marine creatures 761 00:46:48,773 --> 00:46:52,476 than almost any place else on earth, 762 00:46:52,476 --> 00:46:56,881 long-lost war wrecks claimed by the power of the ocean 763 00:46:56,881 --> 00:46:59,216 burst with energy and life. 764 00:47:01,052 --> 00:47:05,723 Yawning trenches plunge into unseen depths, 765 00:47:05,723 --> 00:47:08,759 and manta rays soar, 766 00:47:08,759 --> 00:47:16,467 here, in this exotic land of the giants. 767 00:47:16,467 --> 00:47:30,114 (♪♪♪) 768 00:47:30,114 --> 00:47:44,128 (♪♪♪) 769 00:47:44,128 --> 00:47:51,969 (♪♪♪) 59927

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