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Palau.
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00:00:03,203 --> 00:00:06,874
A remote and tiny island chain
near the equator
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00:00:06,874 --> 00:00:10,777
is home to one of the world's
richest reef ecosystems.
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00:00:13,614 --> 00:00:15,682
It is also home to giants.
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00:00:18,185 --> 00:00:20,754
Massive Second World War
wrecks
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00:00:20,754 --> 00:00:24,057
harbor dark secrets
on the ocean floor.
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00:00:24,057 --> 00:00:25,525
I turn around,
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00:00:25,525 --> 00:00:27,995
there's a huge monster wreck
behind me.
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00:00:27,995 --> 00:00:29,997
My heart went whoomp.
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00:00:29,997 --> 00:00:31,698
Undersea trenches,
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00:00:31,698 --> 00:00:33,901
deep enough
to swallow mountains
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00:00:33,901 --> 00:00:36,803
offer a glimpse
into the abyss.
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00:00:36,803 --> 00:00:38,005
The old phrase that
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00:00:38,005 --> 00:00:40,474
"we know more about the surface
of the moon and Mars
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00:00:40,474 --> 00:00:44,044
than we know about the bottom
of the ocean" holds true.
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And large
and mysterious creatures
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soar through its azure waters.
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You turn around
and all you see
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00:00:50,150 --> 00:00:52,686
is these big, gaping mouths
coming out of the blue.
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It's basically like a mouth
with wings on it coming at you.
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00:00:56,757 --> 00:00:59,793
Here, in this
land of the giants.
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(♪♪♪)
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(♪♪♪)
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(♪♪♪)
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At the southern end
of the Palau islands
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near a dive site
called German Channel,
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manta researcher
Mandy Etpison
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prepares to descend
into the blue.
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(♪♪♪)
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During the German occupation
of Palau,
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prior to the First World War
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miners blasted and dredged
a channel here
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to create a shipping route
between the islands.
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00:02:01,922 --> 00:02:04,257
Today, strong currents
carry plankton
35
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to the mouth of the channel,
making it an ideal feeding site
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for one of the ocean's
most graceful and gentle giants.
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The manta ray.
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One of the largest creatures
in the sea survives by feeding
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almost entirely on
one of the smallest.
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It's sort of like
a bottleneck
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so the plankton
gets concentrated here
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and that's why
it's famous for mantas.
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So we're hoping
to see mantas obviously
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and, if we're lucky,
maybe a new individual
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that hasn't been recorded yet
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so we can add it
to our database.
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Mandy began
the Palau Manta ID Project
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in 2009.
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Identifying each animal
by the spots on its belly.
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00:02:58,745 --> 00:03:03,417
The spot formation on a manta
is as unique as a fingerprint.
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00:03:03,417 --> 00:03:05,619
We started taking pictures
of the bellies
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00:03:05,619 --> 00:03:08,722
to identify the mantas
and trying to show,
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especially Palau government,
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that we don't need
to hurt the animals
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or tag them to be able
to find out more about them.
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00:03:16,196 --> 00:03:18,799
We've identified over 280
right now.
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00:03:18,799 --> 00:03:20,233
Five years ago,
nobody would have believed
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00:03:20,233 --> 00:03:23,203
we have that many mantas
in Palau.
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00:03:23,203 --> 00:03:28,442
This simple ID project
can do a lot.
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00:03:28,442 --> 00:03:30,977
By tracking the numbers
and movements of mantas,
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00:03:30,977 --> 00:03:33,146
Mandy
and the UK based Manta Trust
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can identify
any population decline
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caused by illegal fishing,
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00:03:38,085 --> 00:03:41,688
and whether or not tourism
may be driving mantas away
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from German Channel.
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Tourism is on the rise
in Palau,
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a collection
of more than 200 islands
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nearly 1,000 miles east
of the Philippines
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in the Western Pacific ocean.
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00:04:02,008 --> 00:04:05,312
The tourists that flock here
to explore its natural wonders
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00:04:05,312 --> 00:04:09,850
contribute about $125 million
to the economy,
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more than half of Palau's
gross domestic product.
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Hundreds of miles
of sky-blue ocean
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surround the archipelago.
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00:04:21,228 --> 00:04:22,729
Limestone islands,
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00:04:22,729 --> 00:04:25,599
blanketed in thick
and pristine jungle
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rise like mushrooms
from the sea.
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00:04:29,236 --> 00:04:31,505
They appear to be
floating gardens.
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Scuba divers
from across the globe
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00:04:37,410 --> 00:04:38,778
are drawn to Palau
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for what lies beneath
the emerald lagoons:
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00:04:44,584 --> 00:04:47,387
One of the world's richest
reef ecosystems.
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00:04:52,592 --> 00:04:56,730
These coral gardens overflow
with 1,500 species of fish,
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00:04:59,499 --> 00:05:01,334
500 species of coral,
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00:05:04,104 --> 00:05:07,207
and more than 100 species
of sharks and rays.
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00:05:09,342 --> 00:05:13,513
Palau's seas may contain
more species of marine life
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00:05:13,513 --> 00:05:15,815
than anywhere else on earth
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00:05:15,815 --> 00:05:18,952
and provide researchers
an exceptional window
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into a vanishing
underwater world.
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00:05:26,159 --> 00:05:28,328
The explosion
of marine life here
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00:05:28,328 --> 00:05:30,463
is due to marine geology.
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00:05:32,732 --> 00:05:35,735
Palau sits on the tip
of an underwater mountain
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that formed
70 million years ago.
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Far below the island peaks
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00:05:42,943 --> 00:05:46,213
currents crash
against the drowned mountain
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then surge upward,
carrying the nutrients
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00:05:49,316 --> 00:05:52,018
that underpin
the oceanic food chain.
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There is another reason
for the sheer numbers of fish
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00:05:59,593 --> 00:06:02,062
that throng these waters.
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00:06:02,062 --> 00:06:04,864
Palau has a long history
of conservation.
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For centuries,
Palauans have lived in harmony
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with the sea,
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never taking more
than they needed.
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In 2009,
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Palau created the world's
first shark sanctuary,
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making it illegal
to catch sharks in its seas.
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Then in 2014, it expanded
its conservation efforts
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00:06:34,628 --> 00:06:38,365
and banned all foreign fishing
within its waters.
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Palau is now home to the world's
largest marine sanctuary,
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00:06:46,973 --> 00:06:51,111
a swath of protected ocean
nearly the size of California.
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Marine-law officers patrol
the Palauan seas
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on the lookout
for illegal fishing vessels.
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00:07:03,757 --> 00:07:06,126
As a result, the big fish
that have been all
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but wiped out in some areas
of the Pacific
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are still very much alive
in Palau.
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(♪♪♪)
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Hefty grey reef sharks.
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Five-foot-long
Napolean wrasses.
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And of course,
manta rays:
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The marine giants
that patrol these seas.
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00:07:42,729 --> 00:07:45,932
Though smaller than
their oceanic cousins
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00:07:45,932 --> 00:07:49,369
reef mantas are still among
the largest fish in the sea.
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00:07:51,604 --> 00:07:54,908
They have an average wing span
of 11 feet
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and reach weights of more than
3,000 pounds.
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00:08:00,080 --> 00:08:03,450
Mantas have exceptionally
large brains
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00:08:03,450 --> 00:08:06,786
specifically the region
responsible for hearing, touch
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00:08:06,786 --> 00:08:08,221
and vision.
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00:08:10,090 --> 00:08:13,426
They are highly social
and curious about humans.
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00:08:16,329 --> 00:08:17,697
If you've been diving
a long time
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you interact
with different animals.
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00:08:19,399 --> 00:08:21,301
You can see the difference,
for instance,
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between a guppy
or a Napoleon wrasse.
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The Napoleon wrasse,
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00:08:24,771 --> 00:08:25,939
you can tell
there's somebody home.
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There's an intelligent being
in there
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and it's the same with mantas.
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When you look at them
and you start realizing
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they're actually,
in my opinion
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they can recognize
certain dive guides.
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They will go over a dive group
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and go straight
for the dive guide,
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and especially
the newborn mantas
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they will play with divers
when it's not too crowded.
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You can see
it's an intelligent animal
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like a dog or a cat
and they can learn.
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At German Channel,
mantas swim against the current
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to feed on large concentrations
of plankton
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swept into the channel entrance.
149
00:09:10,683 --> 00:09:13,386
Fins curving around its face
direct water
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00:09:13,386 --> 00:09:15,588
into the manta's large,
open mouth.
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00:09:20,994 --> 00:09:23,663
You turn around and all
you see is these big, gaping
mouths
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00:09:23,663 --> 00:09:24,998
coming out of the blue.
153
00:09:24,998 --> 00:09:27,500
It's basically like a mouth
with wings on it coming at you.
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00:09:27,500 --> 00:09:29,402
It's an amazing sight.
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00:09:31,271 --> 00:09:33,373
Tissue between
the manta's gills
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sift tiny crustaceans
and plankton from the water.
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A manta is like
a giant filtering machine,
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capable of vacuuming up
more than 400 pounds of plankton
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in a single week.
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00:09:51,291 --> 00:09:56,129
At times, manta feeding
can be a dizzying display.
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Depending on the current
and the wind direction,
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sometimes they'll feed
by themselves and roll.
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They call it "barrel rolling".
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It's like an underwater ballet.
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Really nice to watch.
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The manta may look like
it's chasing its tail
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but by rolling,
it pushes more plankton
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into its waiting mouth.
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When the current is strong
usually right before a full moon
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mantas adopt
an entirely different
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but equally captivating
feeding strategy
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known as "train feeding".
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So you can get anywhere
from 2 to 20 or 200
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if there are that many,
feeding together in a train,
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which is an amazing sight.
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They'll just keep going
back and forth across the line
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where the plankton gets trapped.
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(♪♪♪)
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One of the largest creatures
in the sea,
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mantas are also
one of the most mysterious.
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Research into their mating
and birthing behavior
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has barely begun.
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00:11:11,070 --> 00:11:13,606
For hundreds of years,
mantas were simply known
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as "Devil Fish"
due to their imposing size
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and bat-like appearance.
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But they're very, very gentle
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like when the current's strong
sometimes
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and you're taking photos
or video
189
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it's very hard
to stay out of their way,
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00:11:28,087 --> 00:11:30,023
especially when there's
that many of them.
191
00:11:30,023 --> 00:11:32,625
So when you're free diving
you dive down to take a picture,
192
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they'll come straight at you,
193
00:11:34,027 --> 00:11:37,363
and sometimes you get thrown
in their path basically.
194
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And they'll just very gently
lift their wing
195
00:11:39,999 --> 00:11:41,701
and try not to touch you.
196
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They're very careful
with people, which is amazing.
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00:11:43,870 --> 00:11:46,339
They could just slap you,
you know, if they wanted to.
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00:11:49,309 --> 00:11:51,678
Mandy believes that
physically tagging mantas
199
00:11:51,678 --> 00:11:54,113
can cause harm
to these gentle giants.
200
00:11:57,016 --> 00:11:59,652
A manta's skin is like rubber
201
00:11:59,652 --> 00:12:03,456
and wounds can take years
to heal.
202
00:12:03,456 --> 00:12:05,458
Even though they might be
able to recover from it,
203
00:12:05,458 --> 00:12:06,559
it leaves scars.
204
00:12:06,559 --> 00:12:09,429
And by photographing the mantas
at German Channel
205
00:12:09,429 --> 00:12:13,232
we've seen how long it can take
for those scars to heal.
206
00:12:13,232 --> 00:12:15,068
By photographing them
every season
207
00:12:15,068 --> 00:12:17,403
you can start seeing
those results.
208
00:12:17,403 --> 00:12:20,673
So we prefer to not
do actual tagging.
209
00:12:26,713 --> 00:12:28,982
Previous tagging studies
enabled scientists
210
00:12:28,982 --> 00:12:31,818
to track the movement
of mantas.
211
00:12:31,818 --> 00:12:34,120
Photo IDs can't do that,
212
00:12:34,120 --> 00:12:36,289
but Mandy has developed
an alternative
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00:12:36,289 --> 00:12:39,659
that is unveiling more secrets
of their behavior.
214
00:12:41,894 --> 00:12:45,498
She places time-lapse cameras
at the cleaning stations,
215
00:12:45,498 --> 00:12:48,501
spots on the reef
where small fish rid the mantas
216
00:12:48,501 --> 00:12:50,436
of dead skin and parasites.
217
00:12:51,938 --> 00:12:54,841
It takes pictures
every 10 seconds or 30 seconds
218
00:12:54,841 --> 00:12:58,211
and normally we put four or five
around a cleaning station
219
00:12:58,211 --> 00:12:59,278
and then when you pick it up
220
00:12:59,278 --> 00:13:02,382
you've got thousands of pictures
to go through.
221
00:13:02,382 --> 00:13:03,750
(Camera clicks)
222
00:13:03,750 --> 00:13:04,884
In the previous year,
223
00:13:04,884 --> 00:13:07,787
Mandy was able to identify
44 new mantas
224
00:13:07,787 --> 00:13:10,289
from thousands
of time-lapse photos.
225
00:13:14,027 --> 00:13:16,663
It's a lot of effort,
but worth it in the end.
226
00:13:18,931 --> 00:13:20,299
Because instead
of acoustic tagging
227
00:13:20,299 --> 00:13:21,868
where you can just see a beep
228
00:13:21,868 --> 00:13:23,970
how many times
a manta passed by,
229
00:13:23,970 --> 00:13:26,739
you can actually see the manta,
what they're doing
230
00:13:26,739 --> 00:13:28,608
and learn about their behavior
at the same time
231
00:13:28,608 --> 00:13:30,143
without hurting them.
232
00:13:32,045 --> 00:13:33,980
Mantas are curious creatures
233
00:13:33,980 --> 00:13:35,948
and will closely inspect
the cameras
234
00:13:35,948 --> 00:13:37,550
left behind on the reef.
235
00:13:38,885 --> 00:13:40,453
When we put
the time-lapse cameras
236
00:13:40,453 --> 00:13:43,289
we start realizing that
they're immediately aware
237
00:13:43,289 --> 00:13:46,693
of something changing
in their cleaning station
238
00:13:46,693 --> 00:13:48,094
so they come up to the cameras
239
00:13:48,094 --> 00:13:50,897
and they unfold
their cephalic flaps
240
00:13:50,897 --> 00:13:53,966
which are sort of like feelers
for them also.
241
00:13:53,966 --> 00:13:55,535
So they're doing like this
to the camera
242
00:13:55,535 --> 00:13:56,903
to see like what is this thing
243
00:13:56,903 --> 00:13:58,471
that's sitting
on my cleaning station.
244
00:13:58,471 --> 00:14:00,273
So those are the kind of things
245
00:14:00,273 --> 00:14:03,009
you would never find out
any other way.
246
00:14:12,118 --> 00:14:13,553
Today at German Channel,
247
00:14:13,553 --> 00:14:16,389
one of the busiest manta sites
in Palau
248
00:14:16,389 --> 00:14:18,491
there are no mantas to be seen.
249
00:14:20,860 --> 00:14:22,729
Currents,
which should be incoming
250
00:14:22,729 --> 00:14:26,099
based on the moon cycle
have switched to outgoing.
251
00:14:27,767 --> 00:14:30,703
Which means no plankton
is flowing into the channel,
252
00:14:30,703 --> 00:14:32,672
and that means fewer mantas.
253
00:14:37,810 --> 00:14:40,179
Mandy spots something
on the bottom.
254
00:14:40,179 --> 00:14:42,482
A feathertail stingray,
255
00:14:42,482 --> 00:14:44,917
buried up to its eyes
in the sand.
256
00:14:48,654 --> 00:14:51,557
Finally,
she sights a large male manta.
257
00:14:56,796 --> 00:15:00,733
It's one called Uncle Fester,
a regular at German Channel
258
00:15:00,733 --> 00:15:02,969
that has fed here
for at least 10 years.
259
00:15:06,205 --> 00:15:09,542
On this day, Mandy sights
just three other mantas.
260
00:15:12,478 --> 00:15:16,949
One pregnant female already
logged in the database
261
00:15:16,949 --> 00:15:18,551
and two others that passed by
262
00:15:18,551 --> 00:15:20,520
without stopping
at the cleaning station.
263
00:15:25,158 --> 00:15:28,060
Mantas may be large,
264
00:15:28,060 --> 00:15:30,263
but they are dwarfed
by another giant
265
00:15:30,263 --> 00:15:32,165
living in the waters of Palau,
266
00:15:35,468 --> 00:15:37,136
its barrier reef.
267
00:15:43,075 --> 00:15:46,612
Coral reefs are the world's
largest living structures,
268
00:15:46,612 --> 00:15:49,715
made up of millions
of tiny plant-like animals
269
00:15:49,715 --> 00:15:51,551
known as "coral polyps".
270
00:15:53,219 --> 00:15:55,822
Reefs begin
when a polyp attaches itself
271
00:15:55,822 --> 00:15:58,191
to a surface on the ocean floor
272
00:15:58,191 --> 00:16:01,227
then divides
into thousands of clones,
273
00:16:01,227 --> 00:16:04,163
which secrete
a calcium carbonate skeleton.
274
00:16:05,932 --> 00:16:09,735
Together, the polyps act
as a single, immense organism.
275
00:16:12,004 --> 00:16:14,507
Coral reefs
are always growing.
276
00:16:14,507 --> 00:16:15,641
When coral dies,
277
00:16:15,641 --> 00:16:19,645
it leaves behind
the rock-like skeleton.
278
00:16:19,645 --> 00:16:25,318
The next generation of coral
grows on the old skeleton.
279
00:16:25,318 --> 00:16:28,187
Coral reefs are the rainforests
of the sea.
280
00:16:31,390 --> 00:16:34,660
They cover fewer
than 2% of the ocean floor
281
00:16:34,660 --> 00:16:36,796
and yet they provide
food and shelter
282
00:16:36,796 --> 00:16:39,765
for about one-quarter
of all ocean species.
283
00:16:41,801 --> 00:16:44,470
One billion people
depend on coral reefs
284
00:16:44,470 --> 00:16:47,707
for food and income
from fishing and tourism.
285
00:16:48,708 --> 00:16:52,678
Reefs also provide protection
from hurricanes and typhoons.
286
00:16:53,813 --> 00:16:55,915
The Palau Reef
believed to have formed
287
00:16:55,915 --> 00:16:58,351
about two million years ago
288
00:16:58,351 --> 00:17:01,587
may be the most essential giant
in these waters.
289
00:17:08,227 --> 00:17:11,764
The bone-white beaches
of the low-lying Rock Islands
290
00:17:11,764 --> 00:17:15,334
are built from sand
that originated as coral.
291
00:17:19,038 --> 00:17:21,173
Reef animals
like this Parrotfish
292
00:17:21,173 --> 00:17:23,075
feed on coral and algae
293
00:17:23,075 --> 00:17:25,177
that grows
on the surface of the reef.
294
00:17:29,382 --> 00:17:32,985
The parrotfish's hard,
beak-like teeth bite off
295
00:17:32,985 --> 00:17:36,589
not just the coral
but its hard skeleton as well.
296
00:17:41,127 --> 00:17:43,129
The pulverized
hard-coral material
297
00:17:43,129 --> 00:17:47,266
ingested by the fish passes
through its digestive system
298
00:17:47,266 --> 00:17:49,669
and is deposited
back into the ocean
299
00:17:49,669 --> 00:17:52,405
in clouds
of fine white coral sand.
300
00:17:56,676 --> 00:17:59,712
One parrotfish can produce
200 pounds of sand
301
00:17:59,712 --> 00:18:01,714
in a single year.
302
00:18:06,686 --> 00:18:09,989
These Rock Islands
built by coral sand
303
00:18:09,989 --> 00:18:13,759
and topped by lush
and untouched Pacific jungle
304
00:18:13,759 --> 00:18:16,495
are a major tourist draw.
305
00:18:16,495 --> 00:18:24,103
(♪♪♪)
306
00:18:24,103 --> 00:18:28,507
Palau is a country
of just 20,000 people.
307
00:18:28,507 --> 00:18:34,113
In 2015, it received more than
150,000 visitors.
308
00:18:37,350 --> 00:18:40,619
This tiny island nation
is struggling to find a balance
309
00:18:40,619 --> 00:18:43,222
between the profit
tourism generates
310
00:18:43,222 --> 00:18:45,224
and its impact on the reef.
311
00:18:47,860 --> 00:18:50,696
You know,
if you have one or two people
312
00:18:50,696 --> 00:18:52,498
and they go there and they do
a little bit of damage,
313
00:18:52,498 --> 00:18:53,632
it's not a big deal.
314
00:18:53,632 --> 00:18:56,102
But if you have thousands
and thousands of people
315
00:18:56,102 --> 00:18:58,838
doing that every day,
then eventually
316
00:18:58,838 --> 00:19:03,376
we would destroy the corals
and destroy the structure.
317
00:19:03,376 --> 00:19:06,879
The research we're doing
is to look at these sites
318
00:19:06,879 --> 00:19:08,781
that are visited by tourists
319
00:19:08,781 --> 00:19:13,486
and try to look at their impact
on the reef communities,
320
00:19:13,486 --> 00:19:16,055
including the corals
and the fish and the animals
321
00:19:16,055 --> 00:19:17,757
that live around the reef.
322
00:19:17,757 --> 00:19:32,438
(♪♪♪)
323
00:19:32,438 --> 00:19:35,374
Today we're trying to look
to see the impacts of snorkelers
324
00:19:35,374 --> 00:19:37,476
on shallow coral reefs.
325
00:19:37,476 --> 00:19:40,546
So with Palau's tourism boom
326
00:19:40,546 --> 00:19:42,248
we've seen
an increase of tourists
327
00:19:42,248 --> 00:19:44,116
on our snorkeling reefs
328
00:19:44,116 --> 00:19:46,585
and a lot of them have
as we've noticed
329
00:19:46,585 --> 00:19:48,788
have very little
or little confident
330
00:19:48,788 --> 00:19:49,889
swimming skills.
331
00:19:49,889 --> 00:19:50,856
So we want to see
332
00:19:50,856 --> 00:19:54,226
if that has any impact
on the corals
333
00:19:54,226 --> 00:19:57,029
and if they're breaking corals
or standing on them
334
00:19:57,029 --> 00:19:58,564
and the effects of that.
335
00:20:03,235 --> 00:20:06,272
To determine the health
of the coral at this site,
336
00:20:06,272 --> 00:20:11,277
Evelyn uses a sampling square,
called a quadrat.
337
00:20:11,277 --> 00:20:15,314
She throws it randomly,
50 to 60 times at a given site.
338
00:20:18,217 --> 00:20:20,686
When the quadrat lands
on the lagoon floor,
339
00:20:20,686 --> 00:20:23,022
she photographs the area
within the frame.
340
00:20:26,559 --> 00:20:30,129
Researchers study the photos
for evidence of coral damage
341
00:20:30,129 --> 00:20:34,366
and compare the sample photos
taken at busy snorkeling sites
342
00:20:34,366 --> 00:20:37,203
With those taken at sites
untouched by tourists.
343
00:20:40,673 --> 00:20:43,476
Initial research
by Dr. Golbuu's team reveals
344
00:20:43,476 --> 00:20:46,112
that the reefs
at crowded snorkeling sites
345
00:20:46,112 --> 00:20:49,148
are dominated by broken coral
346
00:20:49,148 --> 00:20:54,153
which seriously threatens
the health of the reef.
347
00:20:54,153 --> 00:20:58,390
But the team is studying
more than just corals today.
348
00:20:58,390 --> 00:21:01,393
Gary is going to be
counting fish today.
349
00:21:01,393 --> 00:21:04,130
He's one of our experts
at the Coral Reef Center.
350
00:21:04,130 --> 00:21:06,665
He knows a lot
of our fish species.
351
00:21:06,665 --> 00:21:09,034
The common names,
their Palauan names,
352
00:21:09,034 --> 00:21:10,803
as well as their Latin names.
353
00:21:10,803 --> 00:21:12,438
So what he will do is
354
00:21:12,438 --> 00:21:15,841
he will go
and measure any fish
355
00:21:15,841 --> 00:21:19,078
that comes within
five-meter radius of him.
356
00:21:19,078 --> 00:21:21,614
It's what we call
a stationary fish count.
357
00:21:21,614 --> 00:21:24,116
So he'll stay in one spot
for 3 minutes
358
00:21:24,116 --> 00:21:26,152
and he'll count
any commercially important fish
359
00:21:26,152 --> 00:21:29,188
that comes in
that five meter-radius
360
00:21:29,188 --> 00:21:31,690
and then write down their sizes
in centimeters.
361
00:21:34,360 --> 00:21:36,629
The fish count,
like the reef survey,
362
00:21:36,629 --> 00:21:40,266
is designed to assess the impact
of tourism on the lagoon.
363
00:21:43,135 --> 00:21:44,603
Although it's prohibited,
364
00:21:44,603 --> 00:21:46,906
tour operators have been known
to feed fish
365
00:21:46,906 --> 00:21:49,608
to attract them
to tourist snorkeling sites.
366
00:21:53,212 --> 00:21:56,916
Hand-feeding fish makes them
associate humans with food
367
00:21:56,916 --> 00:22:00,219
and can interfere with their
natural feeding cycles.
368
00:22:02,454 --> 00:22:05,558
This study will help determine
the effect fish feeding has had
369
00:22:05,558 --> 00:22:07,826
on both the size
and numbers of fish
370
00:22:07,826 --> 00:22:12,298
in the lagoon.
371
00:22:12,298 --> 00:22:15,401
On a global level,
coral reefs face a threat
372
00:22:15,401 --> 00:22:19,004
far greater than tourism.
373
00:22:19,004 --> 00:22:21,140
Ocean acidification.
374
00:22:24,944 --> 00:22:26,612
Humans have produced
more and more
375
00:22:26,612 --> 00:22:28,514
carbon dioxide emissions
376
00:22:28,514 --> 00:22:30,482
through the burning
of fossil fuels.
377
00:22:35,654 --> 00:22:37,990
More than one-quarter
of carbon dioxide
378
00:22:37,990 --> 00:22:41,994
pumped into the atmosphere
is dissolved into the oceans
379
00:22:41,994 --> 00:22:44,396
where it upsets
the chemical balance
380
00:22:44,396 --> 00:22:46,432
making water more acidic.
381
00:22:49,335 --> 00:22:52,504
This acidification threatens
the survival of the animals
382
00:22:52,504 --> 00:22:54,673
on the reef.
383
00:22:54,673 --> 00:22:57,209
The skeletons
of most marine organisms,
384
00:22:57,209 --> 00:23:01,847
including crustaceans and fish
are made from calcium carbonate.
385
00:23:02,948 --> 00:23:05,417
If the acidity
of the water increases,
386
00:23:05,417 --> 00:23:08,621
there are fewer carbonate ions
in the water
387
00:23:08,621 --> 00:23:10,522
and it becomes harder
for these animals
388
00:23:10,522 --> 00:23:11,957
to form a skeleton.
389
00:23:12,958 --> 00:23:14,927
Acidity can be increased
to the point
390
00:23:14,927 --> 00:23:18,497
where even coral
can no longer make a skeleton.
391
00:23:20,232 --> 00:23:23,569
Even before that stage,
the struggle to make a skeleton
392
00:23:23,569 --> 00:23:27,773
can leave coral weak
and vulnerable.
393
00:23:27,773 --> 00:23:30,309
So you might have a coral,
but it's not strong,
394
00:23:30,309 --> 00:23:33,345
like, a little storm
and it would break.
395
00:23:33,345 --> 00:23:36,048
Or, you would have
very high bio-erosion.
396
00:23:36,048 --> 00:23:38,584
A lot of other organisms
will be able to live inside
397
00:23:38,584 --> 00:23:41,520
and break the skeleton
of the coral.
398
00:23:41,520 --> 00:23:44,890
It's yet another threat
on the Palau Barrier Reef
399
00:23:44,890 --> 00:23:48,727
that was already stressed
by reckless overfishing.
400
00:23:50,929 --> 00:23:53,332
For decades,
foreign fishing vessels
401
00:23:53,332 --> 00:23:55,501
plundered these seas,
402
00:23:55,501 --> 00:23:58,404
brutally raking fish
from the reef.
403
00:23:58,404 --> 00:24:01,140
The reef is an ecosystem
404
00:24:01,140 --> 00:24:03,509
and you need corals
and you need fish
405
00:24:03,509 --> 00:24:06,512
and if you take all the fish
from the system,
406
00:24:06,512 --> 00:24:07,880
then you will affect the reefs.
407
00:24:07,880 --> 00:24:09,581
It will affect its health,
408
00:24:09,581 --> 00:24:11,950
and its recovery
from disturbance.
409
00:24:11,950 --> 00:24:14,553
And so that is one
of the main issues
410
00:24:14,553 --> 00:24:16,922
that we need to ensure that
411
00:24:16,922 --> 00:24:18,824
we still have enough fish
in the reef
412
00:24:18,824 --> 00:24:21,794
to allow the reef function
to continue.
413
00:24:21,794 --> 00:24:31,837
(♪♪♪)
414
00:24:31,837 --> 00:24:37,176
(♪♪♪)
415
00:24:37,176 --> 00:24:40,579
Not all of Palau's reefs
are two million years old.
416
00:24:42,781 --> 00:24:44,950
Some are relative youngsters
417
00:24:44,950 --> 00:24:48,554
that can be traced back
just 70 years,
418
00:24:48,554 --> 00:24:52,825
to a time when battles raged
over Palau's tropical skies.
419
00:24:59,264 --> 00:25:01,667
At the bottom
of Malakal Harbor
420
00:25:01,667 --> 00:25:05,437
a massive, broken skeleton
appears slowly from the blue.
421
00:25:09,675 --> 00:25:13,412
It is the Iro,
a Japanese navy tanker
422
00:25:13,412 --> 00:25:16,448
that met its doom
during the Second World War
423
00:25:16,448 --> 00:25:19,051
when US airplanes
rained explosives
424
00:25:19,051 --> 00:25:20,686
on the Japanese fleet.
425
00:25:28,427 --> 00:25:30,829
Over the decades,
the Iro has transformed
426
00:25:30,829 --> 00:25:33,532
into an artificial reef.
427
00:25:33,532 --> 00:25:38,170
Providing shelter for prey,
food for predators,
428
00:25:38,170 --> 00:25:41,673
and a breeding ground
for the hard and soft corals
429
00:25:41,673 --> 00:25:44,309
that have taken hold
of the ship.
430
00:25:46,111 --> 00:25:48,781
She's a spectacular wreck
to dive now.
431
00:25:48,781 --> 00:25:51,517
She is teeming with life
432
00:25:51,517 --> 00:25:53,685
and it's just
an amazing wreck dive
433
00:25:53,685 --> 00:25:55,954
because you have
all that history.
434
00:25:55,954 --> 00:25:58,991
You have all that drama
of the sinking of the vessel
435
00:25:58,991 --> 00:26:01,527
and now,
70 years-plus years later,
436
00:26:01,527 --> 00:26:03,328
you look at it
and it's just the most
437
00:26:03,328 --> 00:26:06,632
beautiful, spectacular reef
there is around there.
438
00:26:09,535 --> 00:26:12,638
The Iro sits upright
in its watery grave,
439
00:26:12,638 --> 00:26:15,574
130 feet below the surface.
440
00:26:19,545 --> 00:26:24,082
It's a colossal wreck,
nearly 500 feet long,
441
00:26:24,082 --> 00:26:26,852
weighing upwards
of 14,000 tons.
442
00:26:28,353 --> 00:26:32,357
And remains largely intact,
except for the damage caused
443
00:26:32,357 --> 00:26:34,960
when a massive explosion
in the engine room
444
00:26:34,960 --> 00:26:36,962
sent the ship to the bottom.
445
00:26:40,532 --> 00:26:44,303
On the bow,
sits a turret gun,
446
00:26:44,303 --> 00:26:48,340
its barrel and armored shield
draped in soft coral.
447
00:26:52,845 --> 00:26:56,782
Wrecks like the Iro provide
a stable setting for coral.
448
00:26:59,585 --> 00:27:02,254
Corals spawn
in the water column.
449
00:27:02,254 --> 00:27:05,524
Eggs are carried by the current
and can land anywhere.
450
00:27:08,560 --> 00:27:11,296
The shallow depth,
warm water,
451
00:27:11,296 --> 00:27:13,899
and relative stillness
of this lagoon
452
00:27:13,899 --> 00:27:16,668
make an ideal breeding ground
for the algae
453
00:27:16,668 --> 00:27:18,904
that cements coral reefs
together.
454
00:27:23,909 --> 00:27:27,546
The Iro is alive
with stony staghorn coral.
455
00:27:32,384 --> 00:27:34,453
Ivory tube sponges.
456
00:27:39,658 --> 00:27:41,827
And black coral trees.
457
00:27:46,698 --> 00:27:50,269
Fish make their home on
or near the wreck as well.
458
00:27:53,405 --> 00:27:54,840
Clouds of fry...
459
00:27:58,844 --> 00:28:00,379
Lionfish...
460
00:28:03,849 --> 00:28:06,118
And Pacific spadefish.
461
00:28:11,623 --> 00:28:14,593
Three masts reach
toward a distant sky
462
00:28:14,593 --> 00:28:20,866
and provide an ideal surface
for sun-seeking organisms,
463
00:28:20,866 --> 00:28:24,002
including huge colonies
of bubble tip anemones.
464
00:28:29,107 --> 00:28:31,977
A close relative
of both jellyfish and coral
465
00:28:31,977 --> 00:28:33,579
the bubble tip anemone
is equipped
466
00:28:33,579 --> 00:28:36,281
with sweeping
venom-filled tentacles
467
00:28:36,281 --> 00:28:38,450
that ensnare passing prey.
468
00:28:43,021 --> 00:28:45,691
The slightest touch
triggers the tentacles
469
00:28:45,691 --> 00:28:48,293
which inject
a paralyzing neurotoxin
470
00:28:48,293 --> 00:28:49,928
into its victim.
471
00:28:51,463 --> 00:28:55,801
But not to the tomato clownfish
nestled inside its tentacles.
472
00:28:56,768 --> 00:29:00,072
To defend itself
and ensure it has enough to eat,
473
00:29:00,072 --> 00:29:03,308
the bubble tip anemone forms
an unlikely alliance.
474
00:29:05,944 --> 00:29:08,981
A layer of mucus
on the clownfish's skin
475
00:29:08,981 --> 00:29:11,917
makes it immune
to the anemone's lethal sting.
476
00:29:15,587 --> 00:29:17,990
It's a symbiotic relationship,
477
00:29:17,990 --> 00:29:19,825
the anemone
protects the clownfish
478
00:29:19,825 --> 00:29:21,193
from predators,
479
00:29:21,193 --> 00:29:24,096
and snacks
on its leftover meals.
480
00:29:25,697 --> 00:29:28,967
In return, the clownfish
drives off intruders
481
00:29:28,967 --> 00:29:31,503
and cleans the anemone
of parasites.
482
00:29:38,010 --> 00:29:41,813
The coral-encrusted Iro
is just one of more than 60
483
00:29:41,813 --> 00:29:44,249
Second World War wrecks
in Palau.
484
00:29:48,286 --> 00:29:50,422
In March 1944,
485
00:29:50,422 --> 00:29:54,359
US Navy planes appeared
high above the islands
486
00:29:54,359 --> 00:29:58,463
bombarding the Japanese fleet
with rockets and torpedoes
487
00:29:58,463 --> 00:30:00,999
and sending most of its vessels
to the bottom.
488
00:30:05,837 --> 00:30:08,240
The coordinated attack
was code-named
489
00:30:08,240 --> 00:30:10,842
"Operation Desecrate One".
490
00:30:13,178 --> 00:30:17,115
In September, 1944,
the Island of Peleliu
491
00:30:17,115 --> 00:30:19,584
was the scene of one
of the bloodiest battles
492
00:30:19,584 --> 00:30:21,853
of the Second World War.
493
00:30:21,853 --> 00:30:24,322
US marines made
an amphibious assault
494
00:30:24,322 --> 00:30:25,590
on these beaches
495
00:30:25,590 --> 00:30:28,627
to liberate the island
from Japanese forces.
496
00:30:30,362 --> 00:30:32,898
Fighting lasted for months
and took the lives
497
00:30:32,898 --> 00:30:36,968
of 10,000 Japanese
and 1,800 American soldiers.
498
00:30:39,871 --> 00:30:43,141
Today the island
is surreally peaceful.
499
00:30:43,141 --> 00:30:45,877
Although scattered
amid the lush vegetation
500
00:30:45,877 --> 00:30:51,283
are the reminders
of past horrors.
501
00:30:51,283 --> 00:30:53,618
A crippled
Japanese fighter plane
502
00:30:53,618 --> 00:30:55,153
reclaimed by the jungle.
503
00:30:58,757 --> 00:31:01,426
A gutted US marine
landing craft,
504
00:31:01,426 --> 00:31:03,128
corroded by the elements.
505
00:31:05,397 --> 00:31:08,233
And sobering memorials
to the thousands,
506
00:31:08,233 --> 00:31:12,070
Japanese and American,
that spent their final moments
507
00:31:12,070 --> 00:31:14,840
on what was once
an island paradise.
508
00:31:23,548 --> 00:31:26,551
Francis Toribiong
is a native Palauan
509
00:31:26,551 --> 00:31:29,554
who grew up on the islands
in the years following the war.
510
00:31:35,193 --> 00:31:38,463
He founded Palau's first
dive operation
511
00:31:38,463 --> 00:31:40,031
and in the 1980s,
512
00:31:40,031 --> 00:31:43,468
helped discover
more than 30 Japanese wrecks...
513
00:31:47,072 --> 00:31:50,876
Including the 285-foot-long
Chuyo Maru.
514
00:31:56,882 --> 00:31:59,317
Like the Iro,
it sits upright
515
00:31:59,317 --> 00:32:02,220
and is overgrown
with corals, sponges
516
00:32:02,220 --> 00:32:03,221
and oysters.
517
00:32:09,094 --> 00:32:11,630
The Chuyo Maru
was a coastal freighter,
518
00:32:11,630 --> 00:32:16,401
sent to the bottom
during Operation Desecrate One
519
00:32:16,401 --> 00:32:19,905
and discovered by Toribiong
in 1989.
520
00:32:23,141 --> 00:32:26,144
I follow the line down
and there's nothing there.
521
00:32:26,144 --> 00:32:27,813
I turn around,
522
00:32:27,813 --> 00:32:31,483
there's a huge monster wreck
behind me.
523
00:32:31,483 --> 00:32:34,085
My heart went whoomp.
524
00:32:34,085 --> 00:32:35,687
I got scared.
525
00:32:35,687 --> 00:32:37,722
Actually I got
a little bit scared
526
00:32:37,722 --> 00:32:40,826
because it's a huge thing
right behind me.
527
00:32:40,826 --> 00:32:43,428
I did not see it because
I was going down this way.
528
00:32:44,996 --> 00:32:46,164
That was exciting.
529
00:32:46,164 --> 00:32:51,603
I mean that completely changed
my way of diving.
530
00:32:51,603 --> 00:32:53,538
Today when I take people diving
531
00:32:53,538 --> 00:32:57,242
I don't try to explain
everything.
532
00:32:57,242 --> 00:33:01,179
I talk about safety,
the depth, time,
533
00:33:01,179 --> 00:33:03,114
and how we go around this way
534
00:33:03,114 --> 00:33:05,150
and I tell them
that's good enough.
535
00:33:05,150 --> 00:33:07,319
I don't want to go beyond that.
536
00:33:07,319 --> 00:33:08,453
Why?
537
00:33:08,453 --> 00:33:12,157
I say I want you to have
that excitement like I do.
538
00:33:14,292 --> 00:33:16,561
I want you
to have that feeling.
539
00:33:16,561 --> 00:33:20,098
It's hard to explain,
but when things are in the water
540
00:33:20,098 --> 00:33:24,636
for last 50-some years,
70 years,
541
00:33:24,636 --> 00:33:30,342
and then the first time you go
it's a really exciting dive.
542
00:33:37,449 --> 00:33:40,118
The Chuyo Maru
shares its watery grave
543
00:33:40,118 --> 00:33:41,720
with a mystery ship.
544
00:33:45,423 --> 00:33:47,926
Its true name remains unknown,
545
00:33:47,926 --> 00:33:49,661
no records of the ship
can be found
546
00:33:49,661 --> 00:33:52,330
in Japanese navy archives.
547
00:33:52,330 --> 00:33:54,699
Though like most wrecks
in Palau
548
00:33:54,699 --> 00:33:57,636
it was sunk along
with most of the Japanese fleet
549
00:33:57,636 --> 00:33:59,838
during Operation Desecrate One.
550
00:34:04,242 --> 00:34:07,412
Today, it's known simply
as the Helmet Wreck,
551
00:34:07,412 --> 00:34:10,649
or Depth Charge Wreck
for the dozens of bombs
552
00:34:10,649 --> 00:34:12,450
found in its hold.
553
00:34:14,552 --> 00:34:18,590
Divers are warned not to touch
any of the charges.
554
00:34:18,590 --> 00:34:22,093
Many of Palau's wrecks
are laden with live ammunition
555
00:34:22,093 --> 00:34:25,030
that can explode if disturbed.
556
00:34:25,030 --> 00:34:28,033
In fact, it's illegal for divers
to take anything
557
00:34:28,033 --> 00:34:30,635
from Palau's sunken
historical treasures.
558
00:34:32,037 --> 00:34:34,039
The Depth Charge Wreck
is a trove
559
00:34:34,039 --> 00:34:36,207
of Second World War artifacts.
560
00:34:37,342 --> 00:34:40,679
The cylinder poking out
of the wreck is a clinometer
561
00:34:40,679 --> 00:34:42,981
used to measure
the height of clouds
562
00:34:42,981 --> 00:34:45,150
to predict incoming storms.
563
00:34:48,320 --> 00:34:50,855
These Sake bottles
564
00:34:50,855 --> 00:34:53,725
and a corroded
Japanese gas mask
565
00:34:53,725 --> 00:34:56,661
are grim reminders
that men died here
566
00:34:56,661 --> 00:35:00,031
in what is now a living museum
of the sea.
567
00:35:01,466 --> 00:35:04,903
When I take the Japanese
diving there
568
00:35:04,903 --> 00:35:06,438
I can see
they have a goose bump.
569
00:35:08,540 --> 00:35:11,076
They tell me
a little bit eerie.
570
00:35:13,578 --> 00:35:15,814
That's the way they do,
I respect that.
571
00:35:15,814 --> 00:35:18,450
It's a part of history
572
00:35:18,450 --> 00:35:21,786
and part of our relationship
with Japan
573
00:35:21,786 --> 00:35:24,923
and something that people
need to understand
574
00:35:24,923 --> 00:35:27,092
that we need to respect
other people.
575
00:35:28,560 --> 00:35:31,663
These once-mighty wrecks
won't last forever.
576
00:35:32,731 --> 00:35:36,534
Saltwater corrodes and eats away
at the steel skeletons.
577
00:35:38,603 --> 00:35:42,040
Eventually, the lagoon
will swallow these remains.
578
00:35:49,848 --> 00:35:54,519
Over the eons, saltwater erosion
has also carved stunning caverns
579
00:35:54,519 --> 00:35:57,555
and tunnels into Palau's
limestone geography.
580
00:35:57,555 --> 00:36:05,330
(♪♪♪)
581
00:36:05,330 --> 00:36:08,133
Hidden 12 feet
below the surface
582
00:36:08,133 --> 00:36:11,369
Chandelier Cave is one
of the largest cave systems
583
00:36:11,369 --> 00:36:12,537
in Palau.
584
00:36:15,073 --> 00:36:17,876
At one time,
it was an open-air cave,
585
00:36:17,876 --> 00:36:20,078
on the surface
of the Rock Islands.
586
00:36:23,481 --> 00:36:26,785
After the last ice age,
oceans rose
587
00:36:26,785 --> 00:36:30,188
filling the cave with seawater
and concealing the entrance.
588
00:36:34,259 --> 00:36:37,095
Stalactites,
formed from calcite
589
00:36:37,095 --> 00:36:40,899
deposited by water dripping
from the cave ceiling,
590
00:36:40,899 --> 00:36:43,334
hang like glittering
light fixtures,
591
00:36:43,334 --> 00:36:45,603
giving Chandelier Cave its name.
592
00:36:49,274 --> 00:36:51,776
Inside the cave
there is no sunlight
593
00:36:51,776 --> 00:36:53,111
to nourish plankton.
594
00:36:57,082 --> 00:36:59,484
Free from these
microscopic organisms,
595
00:36:59,484 --> 00:37:01,553
the water is crystal clear.
596
00:37:10,728 --> 00:37:14,365
At Siaes Tunnel
divers drop down
597
00:37:14,365 --> 00:37:16,367
to enter a chamber
that reaches depths
598
00:37:16,367 --> 00:37:19,170
of more than 140 feet.
599
00:37:19,170 --> 00:37:26,744
(♪♪♪)
600
00:37:26,744 --> 00:37:28,847
Even this far
below the surface
601
00:37:28,847 --> 00:37:31,015
sunlight penetrates the tunnel
602
00:37:31,015 --> 00:37:37,355
to illuminate gorgeous
orange sea fans
603
00:37:37,355 --> 00:37:40,325
and lionfish nibbling
on soft corals.
604
00:37:46,564 --> 00:37:50,201
Palau is a jumping-off point
for some of the deepest diving
605
00:37:50,201 --> 00:37:51,336
in the Pacific.
606
00:37:52,604 --> 00:37:56,007
It sits atop what is essentially
a sunken mountain range.
607
00:37:59,077 --> 00:38:03,148
A steep drop-off,
more than 30,000 feet deep
608
00:38:03,148 --> 00:38:04,682
fringes the islands.
609
00:38:06,317 --> 00:38:08,686
This is The Palau Trench.
610
00:38:09,754 --> 00:38:13,691
It just drops off
and it plummets into the abyss
611
00:38:13,691 --> 00:38:15,793
and very, very close
to shore as well.
612
00:38:15,793 --> 00:38:17,862
So people always talk about
the Marianas Trench,
613
00:38:17,862 --> 00:38:19,364
the deepest part
of the planet.
614
00:38:19,364 --> 00:38:20,899
That's a challenger deep.
615
00:38:20,899 --> 00:38:23,234
That's nearly 300 kilometers
off shore.
616
00:38:23,234 --> 00:38:25,170
We've got massively deep water
617
00:38:25,170 --> 00:38:28,173
within 15 or 20 kilometers
of our shoreline.
618
00:38:28,173 --> 00:38:30,441
So it's very, very unique.
619
00:38:32,343 --> 00:38:34,245
The Palau Trench
is deep enough
620
00:38:34,245 --> 00:38:36,848
to completely submerge
Mount Everest.
621
00:38:39,951 --> 00:38:44,222
Scuba divers typically descend
about 130 feet,
622
00:38:44,222 --> 00:38:47,559
less than half of 1%
of the depth of the trench.
623
00:38:50,328 --> 00:38:53,598
Divers have only just scratched
it's surface.
624
00:38:55,033 --> 00:38:57,735
What is known about
what's down the Palau Trench?
625
00:38:57,735 --> 00:39:00,305
Honestly very, very little.
626
00:39:00,305 --> 00:39:02,574
The old phrase that
we've all heard that
627
00:39:02,574 --> 00:39:05,210
"We know more about the surface
of the moon and Mars
628
00:39:05,210 --> 00:39:08,479
than we know about the bottom
of the ocean" holds true.
629
00:39:10,348 --> 00:39:13,518
Collins has compiled
a 3D map of the trench
630
00:39:13,518 --> 00:39:15,653
from satellite-derived
gravity data
631
00:39:15,653 --> 00:39:18,923
and sonar measurements
collected on dives.
632
00:39:18,923 --> 00:39:21,192
The green shows
the Palau islands
633
00:39:21,192 --> 00:39:25,196
just the tip of a massive
underwater mountain.
634
00:39:25,196 --> 00:39:28,766
You can see that
some of these sheer walls,
635
00:39:28,766 --> 00:39:31,169
they plummet miles,
literally miles,
636
00:39:31,169 --> 00:39:34,439
two or three miles before
they might have a slight shelf
637
00:39:34,439 --> 00:39:36,674
and another feature
and, again,
638
00:39:36,674 --> 00:39:39,711
before they just plummet
into the abyssal plain
639
00:39:39,711 --> 00:39:43,114
at over 9,000 meters deep.
640
00:39:43,114 --> 00:39:45,516
Once we look over the edge
of that reef,
641
00:39:45,516 --> 00:39:48,319
sometimes it's a little daunting
642
00:39:48,319 --> 00:39:50,221
because you have
the beautiful colors,
643
00:39:50,221 --> 00:39:52,991
the shallow waters,
and you just look over
644
00:39:52,991 --> 00:39:55,660
and it's literally looking
down a cliff.
645
00:39:56,661 --> 00:39:59,397
And especially knowing
how deep that is.
646
00:39:59,397 --> 00:40:01,466
So sometime it can be
a little bit daunting
647
00:40:01,466 --> 00:40:04,936
and a little bit disorientating
but it's also a bit thrilling.
648
00:40:19,450 --> 00:40:22,587
A short boat ride
from Siaes Tunnel
649
00:40:22,587 --> 00:40:25,890
lies a marine environment
so spectacular
650
00:40:25,890 --> 00:40:28,860
it's considered one
of the seven underwater wonders
651
00:40:28,860 --> 00:40:29,994
of the world.
652
00:40:33,865 --> 00:40:37,135
Palau is home to more than
50 marine lakes.
653
00:40:39,170 --> 00:40:42,140
When glaciers melted
at the end of the last ice age
654
00:40:42,140 --> 00:40:44,175
10,000 years ago
655
00:40:44,175 --> 00:40:46,077
ocean levels rose,
656
00:40:46,077 --> 00:40:48,746
filling low-lying areas
with seawater.
657
00:40:52,450 --> 00:40:54,852
Fissures and tunnels
in the limestone
658
00:40:54,852 --> 00:40:57,555
connect these saltwater lakes
to the ocean.
659
00:41:01,893 --> 00:41:05,930
Beneath the surface
of a 100-foot-deep marine lake
660
00:41:05,930 --> 00:41:09,600
on the uninhabited coral island
of Eil Malik
661
00:41:09,600 --> 00:41:11,302
is an astonishing sight.
662
00:41:11,302 --> 00:41:19,110
(♪♪♪)
663
00:41:19,110 --> 00:41:24,982
Millions of rippling jellyfish
pack the fluorescent-green water
664
00:41:24,982 --> 00:41:28,086
their shimmering bodies
casting a luminescent glow.
665
00:41:29,821 --> 00:41:32,056
This is Jellyfish Lake.
666
00:41:34,492 --> 00:41:36,961
These golden jellyfish
have thrived in the lake
667
00:41:36,961 --> 00:41:38,863
for more than 10,000 years.
668
00:41:41,966 --> 00:41:45,169
In this closed system,
there are few predators.
669
00:41:45,169 --> 00:41:48,106
So the jellyfish have lost
their need to sting.
670
00:41:50,308 --> 00:41:52,744
They possess stinging cells,
671
00:41:52,744 --> 00:41:57,315
just not ones powerful enough
to cause serious harm to humans.
672
00:41:57,315 --> 00:42:00,051
Getting to swim through
that many jellyfish
673
00:42:00,051 --> 00:42:03,955
is a pretty weird
but wonderful experience.
674
00:42:03,955 --> 00:42:06,057
When you find
a very dense patch of them,
675
00:42:06,057 --> 00:42:08,893
the whole lake is essentially
pulsating with these jellyfish
676
00:42:08,893 --> 00:42:10,428
so it's very cool to see.
677
00:42:11,596 --> 00:42:12,630
They're not harmful,
678
00:42:12,630 --> 00:42:13,998
unless you have
very sensitive skin.
679
00:42:13,998 --> 00:42:15,867
They're very soft,
680
00:42:15,867 --> 00:42:18,035
they're just doing
their own thing cruising along.
681
00:42:21,072 --> 00:42:23,908
There's another,
even more remarkable way
682
00:42:23,908 --> 00:42:27,078
in which these jellyfish differ
from their cousins
683
00:42:27,078 --> 00:42:29,547
in Palau's nearby ocean lagoons.
684
00:42:31,149 --> 00:42:34,685
Most species of jellyfish,
like this moon jelly,
685
00:42:34,685 --> 00:42:37,555
drift serenely
on ocean currents
686
00:42:37,555 --> 00:42:39,157
just as their ancestors have
687
00:42:39,157 --> 00:42:41,526
since before the age
of the dinosaurs.
688
00:42:44,462 --> 00:42:47,498
The five million specimens
at Jellyfish Lake
689
00:42:47,498 --> 00:42:49,567
are far from passive.
690
00:42:50,668 --> 00:42:53,271
They may look like
their drifting aimlessly
691
00:42:53,271 --> 00:42:56,808
but in fact
they're on a journey.
692
00:42:56,808 --> 00:42:59,377
Migrating almost a mile,
693
00:42:59,377 --> 00:43:03,548
they follow the same path
and same schedule every day.
694
00:43:04,916 --> 00:43:06,984
As the sun rises in the east,
695
00:43:06,984 --> 00:43:10,354
the jellyfish swim
toward its life-giving rays.
696
00:43:11,389 --> 00:43:15,393
They have to make the trek,
to survive.
697
00:43:15,393 --> 00:43:19,130
The body of each jellyfish
contains a crop of algae,
698
00:43:19,130 --> 00:43:20,898
its main source of food.
699
00:43:22,800 --> 00:43:25,803
The algae processes sunlight
to produce sugar
700
00:43:25,803 --> 00:43:27,705
that feeds the jellyfish.
701
00:43:29,407 --> 00:43:33,277
For hours,
they swim east toward the sun
702
00:43:33,277 --> 00:43:35,279
pumping water
through their bells,
703
00:43:35,279 --> 00:43:37,548
and rotating counter-clockwise
704
00:43:37,548 --> 00:43:40,184
to provide even exposure
to the sun
705
00:43:40,184 --> 00:43:41,919
for the algae in their bodies.
706
00:43:43,588 --> 00:43:45,923
Trees that surround
and shelter the lake
707
00:43:45,923 --> 00:43:49,494
also cast shadows
on the surface.
708
00:43:49,494 --> 00:43:51,662
The jellyfish
must avoid the shade.
709
00:43:53,130 --> 00:43:56,200
They need to absorb
as much sunlight as possible
710
00:43:56,200 --> 00:43:59,337
to maximize the energy
created by the algae
711
00:43:59,337 --> 00:44:01,272
within their bells.
712
00:44:01,272 --> 00:44:03,908
So what they do is they
follow the sun around the lake
713
00:44:03,908 --> 00:44:05,710
so at a given time
during the day
714
00:44:05,710 --> 00:44:07,812
they'll be in the brightest spot
of the lake
715
00:44:07,812 --> 00:44:09,180
finding the most food.
716
00:44:11,949 --> 00:44:14,719
As the sun begins
to set in the west,
717
00:44:14,719 --> 00:44:17,989
the dense bloom of jellyfish
reverses course
718
00:44:17,989 --> 00:44:20,124
and heads back
to the western shore.
719
00:44:21,859 --> 00:44:25,229
All this swimming
churns up nutrients in the water
720
00:44:25,229 --> 00:44:28,099
that form the base
of the lake's food chain.
721
00:44:30,568 --> 00:44:33,271
When the sun disappears
into the horizon,
722
00:44:33,271 --> 00:44:36,440
the jellyfish sink 50 feet down,
723
00:44:36,440 --> 00:44:39,877
where nitrogen-rich waters
help sustain the algae
724
00:44:39,877 --> 00:44:41,612
in their bodies,
725
00:44:41,612 --> 00:44:44,815
before ascending to the surface
before dawn
726
00:44:44,815 --> 00:44:48,352
to start their complex migration
once more.
727
00:44:52,690 --> 00:44:55,192
Of Palau's 52 marine lakes,
728
00:44:55,192 --> 00:44:57,595
five are home
to persistent populations
729
00:44:57,595 --> 00:44:59,163
of golden jellyfish.
730
00:45:02,867 --> 00:45:05,002
Fragile creatures,
they have shown
731
00:45:05,002 --> 00:45:10,408
an outstanding ability to adapt
in these land-locked lakes,
732
00:45:10,408 --> 00:45:13,411
lakes that were once connected
to the ocean
733
00:45:13,411 --> 00:45:17,915
that defines and sustains
this tiny island nation.
734
00:45:17,915 --> 00:45:24,322
(♪♪♪)
735
00:45:24,322 --> 00:45:26,090
For thousands of years,
736
00:45:26,090 --> 00:45:28,926
Palauans have depended
on their coral reef
737
00:45:28,926 --> 00:45:30,795
for survival.
738
00:45:30,795 --> 00:45:34,165
It's such a diverse habitat.
739
00:45:34,165 --> 00:45:35,266
So if we lose that,
740
00:45:35,266 --> 00:45:37,301
we've really lost
a lot of our ocean,
741
00:45:37,301 --> 00:45:40,972
a lot of the biodiversity
in our ocean.
742
00:45:40,972 --> 00:45:43,174
Billions of people
live near the coast
743
00:45:43,174 --> 00:45:45,743
and they depend on coral reefs,
so all of those.
744
00:45:45,743 --> 00:45:49,680
And especially us
on these small islands,
745
00:45:49,680 --> 00:45:52,650
we would be severely affected
746
00:45:52,650 --> 00:45:55,853
and our way of life,
you know, it's totally changed.
747
00:45:55,853 --> 00:46:00,625
It would be a devastation to us,
you know, not to have the reef.
748
00:46:06,230 --> 00:46:09,033
These Pacific islanders
hold to traditions
749
00:46:09,033 --> 00:46:12,069
of deep respect for the sea.
750
00:46:12,069 --> 00:46:15,506
Yesterday,
one of my customer asked me,
751
00:46:15,506 --> 00:46:17,074
"Francis, don't you get tired
752
00:46:17,074 --> 00:46:19,777
of coming out here
in the ocean?"
753
00:46:19,777 --> 00:46:23,114
And I said: "It's amazing."
754
00:46:23,114 --> 00:46:27,852
Not one day is the same
as another day, never the same.
755
00:46:27,852 --> 00:46:31,889
The cloud, the sun,
the rain, the wind,
756
00:46:31,889 --> 00:46:35,693
the tide, the movement.
757
00:46:35,693 --> 00:46:38,729
"So never the same
so that's why
758
00:46:38,729 --> 00:46:41,065
I don't get tired of going
to the ocean."
759
00:46:43,367 --> 00:46:45,469
In these protected waters
760
00:46:45,469 --> 00:46:48,773
that contain more species
of marine creatures
761
00:46:48,773 --> 00:46:52,476
than almost any place else
on earth,
762
00:46:52,476 --> 00:46:56,881
long-lost war wrecks claimed
by the power of the ocean
763
00:46:56,881 --> 00:46:59,216
burst with energy
and life.
764
00:47:01,052 --> 00:47:05,723
Yawning trenches plunge
into unseen depths,
765
00:47:05,723 --> 00:47:08,759
and manta rays soar,
766
00:47:08,759 --> 00:47:16,467
here, in this exotic
land of the giants.
767
00:47:16,467 --> 00:47:30,114
(♪♪♪)
768
00:47:30,114 --> 00:47:44,128
(♪♪♪)
769
00:47:44,128 --> 00:47:51,969
(♪♪♪)
59927
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