All language subtitles for m.g.o.s06e06.1080p.hdtv.h264-cbfm_track3_[eng]

(THEME MUSIC)

Well, I can't believe
we're already into Series Six,

and this year we're travelling
to the Central Cyclades,

the most popular islands in Greece.

And if we're lucky,
we'll see some of these beasts

that have been hibernating
for the winter.

These guys, they can't get
into the nooks and crannies

that we can get to,
so, Mia Zoi is going to take us

right into those lovely islands.

And we'll see
the famous one, Mykonos,

but also the tiny ones that
you know nothing about.

I'm really looking forward to this.

I'm about to jump out of my skin.

PETER MANEAS (PRESENTS):
This episode is about

all things beautiful on Paros,
the beaches, food, art, and people.

I'm headed on a walk around
the coast to see

the stunning seaside,

then I'm going inland to visit
the quieter part of the island,

as well as meeting
a couple of artists

who have made Paros their home.

To finish things off,

we're then making our way
across the Antiparos.

In the last episode,
I arrived on Paros,

having spent the previous week or so
in much quieter surrounds.

It's a highly developed
tourist destination

with constant movement
of people and ferries.

With that comes a lot of energy,

as well as the type of
infrastructure most travellers like.

That means there's plenty of shops,
resorts, restaurants, and tavernas.

Everyone gravitates
the two main towns of Parikia,

which is the port, and Naousa.

They're pretty in their own right,

with the classic Cycladic
architecture

and colourful fishing boats

that create
the cliched image of a Greek island.

But, if you travel
beyond these busy centres,

you'll discover a place
with rolling hills,

fertile farmland,
and much more peaceful settlements.

The town of Naousa
is just across the bay,

and I'm surrounded by 80 hectares
of land that was once

leased to private enterprise.

Only a decade ago,
the people of Paros

took it upon themselves
to manage this land themselves,

and they've done
some wonderful things

that is unique only to this island.

I haven't seen it anywhere else.

They've built an infrastructure,
a self-sustainable infrastructure,

they call it the Paros Environmental
and Cultural Park.

And what we see is things like
swimming lessons for kids

almost every day in summer.

Behind me,

the quarters of the monastery
have been turned into a museum.

Above me, the monastery itself,
working today for a baptism.

There is, behind us,
a wonderful beach bar

that is absolutely
packed with people.

The beach is further on,

well-sustained
and well-looked after as well.

And there's a Monopathi,
a path, there's a couple of paths

on that hill over there,

and that's where
I'm gonna go right now.

The Paros Environmental
and Cultural Park

was founded in 2009,
specifically to avoid

overdevelopment of tourism
and misuse of the site

as a result of
excessive sheep grazing.

The intelligent planning
has created a strategy

that has seen the preservation
of natural geography,

local culture, ecology,

and the historic fabric
of this 80-hectare site.

What's more, it's protected
from the prevailing Meltemi winds

that batter the coast
throughout the summer.

It's three beaches of
Monastiri, Perikopetra,

and Tourkou Ammos,
are well-used by visitors,

but at the same time,
the beautiful Cycladic scenery

has not been burdened
by the effects of overdevelopment

that tourism can bring.

They've integrated
all the modern comforts

that people
want on an island holiday,

but done so in a manner

that's sympathetic to the surrounds
and traditional feel.

The materials used, colour palette,
and architecture,

is in perfect harmony.

There's no doubt that Paros Park
stands out as a benchmark

for other Greek islands to follow.

If you are the type of traveller

that prefers things
to be a bit quieter,

then you can drive around the coast
and find beaches free of crowds,

though you might find yourself
battling those summer winds.

So, my advice is to embrace
the energy of Paros

and grab a deck chair.

As we head to the Monopathi
or the walk for this park,

we should stop and observe

something that's
really-really important.

This bay of Agios Ioannis

was once
filled with the Russian Navy.

At any one point,
there were 100 naval ships here.

And it's the first and last time

that the Russians have had
a naval base of such magnitude

outside USSR or the greater

Russian territory
that we know today.

In 1771 to 1775,
there was the Russian-Turkish War.

Only lasted four or five years,

and it was all about
the Russians wanting to gain

access through the Bosporus

to get their grain
and trade with the Europeans.

And that's why they put
their naval fleet here.

At the end of the day,
they had a chat, they agreed,

and the Turks said,

"You can take your grain through,
but take your naval ships away."

They did.

What a great ending to a dispute.

We should have more of that today.

But wow, it would've been great
to have been here to see

all those ships at that time.

A sight to sea.

Nowadays, the Russian fleet
has been replaced

by a flotilla of yachts
and pleasure craft.

Every year they invade the bay in
huge numbers.

The mood of the place
is one of fun and excitement,

a complete contrast to the days

when the harbour
was full of warships

and the air thick
with nervous tension.

The only stress now is worrying
if you've applied enough sunscreen

and deciding what to have for lunch.

Driving from beach to beach,

you get a glimpse of the sleepy
agricultural side of Paros.

Here you can see a more
traditional way of life

and have a brief bit of respite
from the crowds,

but it's only short-lived
because any patch of sand

you come across
usually gets busy with tourists.

Now, there are some
all-weather beaches on Paros

like this one at Faragas
on the south.

It's an organised beach
and it's got music,

it's got a tavern.

The water is absolutely magnificent,
and it's nice and shallow,

so, you can see a lot of kids
and families here.

It's a very trendy beach,
but not uber-trendy.

I've said on many occasions

that I'm not really
a fan of the bigger islands,

but the value of these popular
tourist magnets like Mykonos,

Santorini, Corfu,
and here, Paros,

is there's a multitude of
beach locations

that offer you everything
from a free sun bed and umbrella

to the option of
fast food at your feet.

There are also locations
for the more discerning guests

that would like to have
a five-star experience,

and there's the complete opposite

where you can escape the chaos
and be on your own.

Back aboard our safe anchorage
out of the wind,

Kyriako was about to cook up
his own storm in the form of a cake.

Now, the boat's been moving around
and I'm a bit sick,

and Kyriako said
he's gonna make me a cake,

sugar-free,
so, Helen's happy.

It's actually gluten-free.
Gluten-free?

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

Well, you can make
a gluten-free.

So, sorry, Helen,
we're not making it

gluten-free at the moment,

but it's good if you're fasting

because there's no egg,
no milk or anything like that in it.

But the good thing about it,

it's something that
they do here in Paros,

and only here in Paros.

Petimezopita.

Petimezopita.

Peti...

Say it.

Petimezopita.
Petimezopita.

OK, do you want to start
lining the bowl

while I tell them
what Petimezi is, right?

Petimezi, right? Petimezi.

This is Petimezi.

Petimezi is a syrup,

a grape syrup or a must as they say,

used by the ancient Greeks
to sweeten things up.

They didn't have sugar,
so, this is what they used.

Now, what Kyriako's just done
is he put some olive oil

in the baking dish

and he's now putting in some sesame

and lining the dish with sesame.

So, this is new for me.

I didn't know what Petimezi
was, so, I know now.

Must or basically a grape juice.

Basically, what's left
when you crush the grapes,

you take the grape juice out
for wine,

what's left is Petimezi.

Alright, what's next?
What do we do next?

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

All the wet stuff.
Orange juice first.

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

And we get the soda.

The baking-baking powder
baking soda.

Put baking soda in.

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)
Can I do it?

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

With the... OK. Alright.

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

And this is Prosecco?

Or some sort of
sweet sparkling wine goes in there.

You keep stirring.
I'm gonna add these things.

Let me do this. Let do it.
(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

You're not letting me do it.
Come on.

OK.
Come on.

That is the Petimezi.

Petimezi. Petimezi.

I'll get it right
sooner or later.

Thank god, I've got Kyriako here.

The best chef in Greece.

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)
The orange peel?

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

Orange peel goes in there.
(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

OK, and then there's
the ground cloves.

Have a look at that.
Have a look at that.

Have a look at that.
Oh, the ground cloves.

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

So, this is bicarbonate of soda.

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

So, I'm gonna put a little bit...

Your spoon's
gonna do it properly.

OK.

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)
OK.

A little bit of flour.

You can do this
with gluten-free flour, right?

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

Now, it's got
its beautiful caramelly look,

you know, and that's just
gonna go in there.

It's that simple.
I mean, how easy is this?

Petimezi...

Petimezopita.
Petimezopita from Paros.

Awesome.

And when we put it in the oven,
how long does it go in the oven for?

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

50 minutes,
at what temperature?

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

170. Can't be 175.
Got to be 170, right?

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

Well, let's not
tell them too much.

Let's not tell them too much.

Obviously, you're gonna learn about
this on mygreekodyssey.com

because we can't tell you exactly
what's happening here.

Look at this look, look...

That's looking good.

I'm a bit worried
about that little bit there.

Be careful.
That doesn't look good.

That doesn't look good. Hang on.

You can taste
the orange peel in there.

Man, that look...

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

Do we have to cook that now?
Can we have it like that?

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

Yeah, with the smell.

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

The aroma is gonna be awesome.

50 minutes, 170 degrees.

See you soon.

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

You can cut now, alright...

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

(LAUGHS)

You got a girlfriend next door?

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

Who is this for?

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

(LAUGHS)

While it was in the oven
baking for 50 minutes,

Kyri ako had to whip up
another batch for the ship's crew.

They love this cake.

And of course,
you've got to keep the crew happy,

but man, did we go through
a lot of this stuff!

Let's see how we go here.

Oh, careful, careful, mate.

Careful, careful, careful,
careful, careful.

See, you need more help.

Should we tap it?

Oh, yeah.

Well, it's a little bit up.
Don't worry about it.

You're really upset now,
aren't you?

I can tell he's really upset.

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

We should have waited.

I know, I know.
But I told you. It's OK.

He's blaming me now.

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

Very good. Very good.

Still looks good.

And that's icing sugar, is it?

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

That's not icing sugar.

I'm being told it's not icing sugar,
but that's OK.

It's something.
It's sweet stuff that goes on top.

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

I'll tell you what, mate.
It is really good.

I have never had
anything like this before.

Can you have this
with ice cream or cream?

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

(LAUGHS)

I don't think you out there

that eat cakes
has had anything like this before.

It's good.
(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

With coffee.

Yeah, you can have it with coffee
because it's nice and light.

I'm grabbing a big chunk.

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

Very light.

Very light.
Let me just grab this.

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

The aroma, yeah.

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

Pezimezopita?

Petimezopita. Petimezopita.

Petimezopita.

This is Petimezopita,
I've never had it before.

My first time here in Paros
and I love it.

And I love it.

Helen, I know you can cook this.

You can make this.

In actual fact, Helen,
I'll make it for you.

And Irinais. Gluten-free.

Gluten-free.

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

You can modify the recipe by
adding a few extras prior to baking.

Kyriako put sultanas into this one.

And you can also add things like
walnuts and sorry, Helen,

but that white stuff
sprinkled on top is sugar.

And there I was thinking it was
a relatively healthy dessert.

(THEME MUSIC)

Leaving the coastal wind,
we headed inland.

Despite only being a short drive
from the busy seaside beaches,

these villages get
very few visitors,

making them
ideal for some quiet time.

I'm gonna let you in
on a little secret.

It's a personal opinion
and it's a little subjective,

so, please take it
with a grain of salt.

I'm not a big fan
of these big islands like Paros.

Now, don't get me wrong,
Paros works for a lot of people.

It's big.

It's got infrastructure,
it's got the pharmacies,

it's got the supermarkets,
it's got lots of beaches

and you can still get lost here.

But what I love about
the big islands

and what I go and search

for is some of these
smaller villages

that remind me
of the smaller islands

and Lefkes is exactly that

and I'm gonna walk through
Lefkes now.

And I've never been through Lefkes.

I've been to Paros so many times,
I've never been here,

but I'm going to walk through Lefkes

just to maybe meet some people
and say, "Kalimera."

Once the capital of Paros,

Lefkes is a mix of Cycladic
and Venetian architecture

surrounded by olive groves
and pine trees.

It makes for a beautiful setting
and with a population of about 500,

it still has a buzz to it,

but because you can't drive
a car through the centre of town,

it's still in a bit of a time warp.

Lefkes is the, sort of,
place where you can see

a slice of the Greece of old,
when things moved a lot slower

and the daily grind involved
taking a couple of hours,

drinking a coffee
and sitting in the street,

talking politics
with your neighbours.

There's a warmth to the town that
makes it welcoming to outsiders.

And even in the modern era

and being on one of the busiest
islands in the country,

it's the authentic Greek
village experience.

The slowness of life here

lends itself to those seeking
peace and clarity.

The clutter of a busy town
with noise and constant movement

can be an unwelcome distraction,

particularly
for those creative types

like the artist
I was about to meet.

Angelika, I look around

and I see all this wonderful art
that you've done.

It's absolutely magnificent.
You are a real pro.

What are you doing
in Paros of all places?

Why are you here
in this little village

in the middle of nowhere?

Well, it gives me space.

Yeah.
That's the main reason.

It absolutely gives me space.

Space?
Yeah.

I'm not, in a way
originally from Paros

and my grandmother
was from this village.

Right.

And although I never as a child
had contact with this village.

I actually made this world

in my head through her stories

and I think this was like
casting a spell on me.

Wow.
I couldn't stay away from here.

So, how long have
you been here now?

I've been around
17 years I think it is.

Wow.
Yes.

And is your art better
as a result of it?

I mean, do you feel better
as a result of it?

I can't answer that question
if it's better or worse.

I can only say that it gave me
an independence

from direct influences of the art
world in the contemporary world.

That's like, it kind of gave me
the freedom to make my own path.

Lefkes is a small jewel.

That's the smallest description
that I can give you.

So, what that means,
that means that Lefkes carries

a aura of the past with it

and it has this dignity in it,

which I find very interesting.

It's not massively influenced
by mass tourism,

it still has these very few finities
from the past

and kind of clean streets,

polite people, little corners

where you find

incredible beauty in them,

and it is a little bit like music

and very soothing in your eyes.

Well, you know a lot about Lefkes.

Can we go and see?
Let's go.

After you.
You got to show me through.

Come on.
Thanks.

Angelika, I see
in your studio portraits

and which way is your art inspired?

I think, the main thing
is the people that live

within this architecture
and basically this architecture,

because everything is so small
and so protected,

it gave me space
to look at the people

and learn about them,
feel with them.

OK.
That's I think the main thing.

This is beautiful here.
It's actually wonderful.

It is, isn't it?

What does that say?

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)
(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

Space and time.
Oh, right, OK.

Yeah.
(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

She's making art as well.

My travels have taught me
that wherever you find one or more

awesome artists, poets, or writers,

you'll generally find
an inspiring location

with a depth of culture.

Lefkes seems to be
one of those places

that attracts creative types
from far and wide.

It gives them inspiration,

but also a space
to express themselves.

So, that was my grandmother's house.

It is one of the oldest houses
in the village,

and it has a hatch
where you hide

women and children
from the pirates.

Is that right? Wow.
Yeah, it's very special.

Yeah.

Oh, well, not being used anymore,
unfortunately.

No. Oh, basically fortunately.

While walking around,

Angelika introduced me
to a friend of hers named Todd.

He's a fashion photographer
from New York

who now lives here permanently.

I really enjoy these encounters

where you meet someone
from another country

with a completely
different lifestyle

that have left
the pace of a material life

to make Greece their new home.

I walked through Lefkes
and there's artists everywhere,

and it just seems
like you're all drawn to this place.

What is it that draws you as here,
you know?

First of all, I feel like
it's off the beaten path,

and I feel like there is a sense of,

it's quiet in a lot of ways,
but also it's beautiful.

It's considered
one of the most beautiful villages

in the Cycladic Islands.

It's got loads of history.

It used to be the capital of Paros,
but it has a very quaint vibe,

and you get one artist like
Angelika, who's grown up

in Greece and her family grew up
here in Lefkes.

You get one person like that here
and they all come running

because you, sort of,
flock to your tribe.

So, how long have you been
living in Lefkes for now?

I bought my house four years ago,

so, I've been living here
for four years

and I bought my store
and gallery just over a year ago

and just opened the doors
a month ago.

Any regrets, mate?

No. No.

I...

It was the right move.

I go to the beach sometimes

and I go for a swim
and I literally...

I'm almost in tears that I'm like,
"Wow, I live here."

You're pinching yourself.

I mean, right now
I'm getting goosebumps.

I can't believe I live here.
Wow.

I could be in Brooklyn right now.

Wow.
It's, you know, it's amazing.

Wow.

Seeing Lefkes through
the eyes of these artists

gave me an unexpected insight

into what a special,
well-kept secret this place is.

Do you know
what I really like about it?

Is that walking through
the town with you,

you see that there's only
small paths.

You can't get a car in there.

You can only take a car
from the outside.

So, this place
will never be overdeveloped.

That's true.

And it kind of grounds you as well,

the fact that you actually
have to walk.

Yeah. Yeah.

A modern life
is not so close to walking.

And you've been telling me
these stories of these people

that have been giving you
inspiration about old stories,

you know, that were 101 and 102.

You can see
why they're living that long.

Because they're walking
everywhere.

Exactly, exactly.
Yeah, yeah.

That's the secret.

Wow.

Not only have these artists found
a beautiful location

that few outsiders are aware of,

but perhaps they've discovered
the secret to happiness.

Take a walkthrough Lefkes,

and if you don't get inspired
by the wonderful views,

the architecture,
tiny alleyways or local artists,

then next time I see you,
I'll buy you a drink.

(BELL RINGS)

(THEME MUSIC)

Leaving Lefkes and driving
towards the East coast

is the village of Marpissa.

I stopped here
to meet Marigoula,

one of the last weavers
in her town

using one of the last looms
on the island.

Now, this may not seem
so significant,

but when you consider
that at one time

weaving was a huge industry on Paros

and almost every household
was involved,

then you can understand
the importance

of her being possibly the last woman
engaged in a profession

that was once an integral part of
the island's culture.

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

Marigoula learned
the craft of weaving

from her mother Flora.

The loom on which she works
dates back to 1858

and is a unique piece
of working history.

For several generations,
this process formed

an integral part of
how the people made their clothing,

bedding, rugs,
and any other items from fabric.

Apart from being used locally,

the products
were also traded across Greece.

Nowadays, it's done

purely as a means to maintain
a connection with her past.

And the items Marigoula makes
are generally sold to tourists.

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

It's hard to imagine
living in a time

when department stores
and supermarkets didn't exist,

where everything a household needed
had to be made by hand,

grown in the yard
or traded for locally.

The Industrial Revolution

killed off the need
for homemade fabrics and clothing.

Then the arrival of online shopping
narrowed things down even more.

There are positives and negatives
to advances in technology.

Yes, some things are cheaper.

Processes can become safer

and life can often be that
little bit easier,

but it can be at the cost of
not only cultural elements,

but an appreciation
for material things.

As they say, easy come, easy go.

Speaking of going,

having been mesmerised by
watching Marigoula working her loom,

it was time to make a move
and head back towards the coast.

The day was getting late
and I was keen to see

a some what modern attraction
of the island,

one that draws
an unlikely useful traveller to it.

As I mentioned earlier,

Paros gets consistent
prevailing winds

that batter the coast,
particularly through summer.

For most of us,
it's a pain in the proverbial,

but there are some people

that come all the way
from the four corners of Europe

to take advantage
of that constant gale.

Wind surfers and kite boarders
gravitate to the island's

windiest spots,

especially the channel
that separates Paros

from its little sister
and Antiparos.

They take full advantage

of the beaches
that the swimmers avoid.

There's an entire new industry here
that supports them with bars,

taverns, hotels, equipment stores,

and tour guides
dedicated to keeping them

on and above the water
doing what they love.

I could only manage a short stop

before getting into the car
for the trip back to Naousa.

It wasn't just
because I was pressed for time,

but there's only so much
of the howling wind I could handle.

Only 500m away
across the channel was Antiparos,

and tomorrow we'd be headed there.

But before that,
I had a dinner reservation

at an iconic location Paros
is known for.

This is the one time of the day

that I particularly enjoy
islands like Paros

for all their crowds
and constant movement.

The late afternoon and evening
is quite beautiful.

The seaside tavernas
take on a different personality

and the buzz of activity
becomes subdued,

perhaps because people
are busy taking in the sunset.

Thanks, Yanni.

Yeah.

Yanni and the Mia Zoi crew would be
joining me later for a drink,

but Kyriako had already prepared
dinner for them,

so, it was up to the film crew
to help me eat the massive dinner

we'd already ordered.

What a beautiful evening
for a dinner in Paros, man.

Wow.

After a long day spent
in the sun and wind.

I couldn't think of a better way
to wind down

than a cool evening breeze
and a seaside meal

with the ever-changing colours
of the sunset.

From breakfast to late at night,
this part of Naousa is always full.

It's a place
where people go to relax

and enjoy a meal with company,

and being outdoors,
the sounds of lively conversations

and laughing drift through the air.

Thank you very much. Thank you.

Thank you, thank you,
thank you, thank you.

And I'm not waiting
for the crew.

The crew is supposed
to be eating with me,

but there's no way
I'm gonna wait for them.

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)

No, no. Thank you. Thank you.
I'm starved. I'm starved.

Wow, this looks so good.

I didn't end up getting pasta

because I put on
too much weight, you know.

I just got a salad, chicken salad...

It's just is good.

I've said it many times,
I'm not a fan of the big islands,

but the value here
is that you eat well.

The quality of the food
is excellent...

the service is fantastic

and you're getting
in the best of both worlds.

You got an island life
and it's like a big city food.

And I'm looking at the crew's food.

I might eat theirs as well
because they got to film this.

They got no choice. I can start.

(LAUGHS)

There's a real mix of people,
old, young, families and couples,

and they're all enjoying the setting
for different reasons.

Be it romance, the great food,
beautiful views,

or simply the company
they're keeping.

Anyone will find joy from being here

with the soundtrack of gentle waves
completing a perfect scene.

There are a few places in the world
as idyllic as this for a meal.

(THEME MUSIC)

The channel that separates Paros

from its little sister island
of Antiparos is very narrow.

In fact, it takes just seven minutes
by ferry to get across.

So, it's very accessible
and well worth the trip.

You can come for a day to check out
the sites or spend a few nights here

to really immerse yourself
in the place.

It's a cosmopolitan island
and a lot more laid back than Paros.

Being a quarter of the size,

it's easy to see
a lot in a short amount of time,

but don't rush

because it's best to move
at the pace of the locals.

A lot of very wealthy people

come to the island
and buy property here.

I won't mention who they are,

but what is it that draws them here?

Why do they come here?

I think, it's that they feel like

simple humans here.

Yeah.
They don't get recognised.

Yes. Nobody recognises them.

It's a safe place for them.

Yeah, yeah. I understand that.

I sort of understand that

no one actually
recognises me here either.

So, I know exactly
what goes on.

On Antiparos, even the most famous

and wealthy of people are treated
just like anyone else.

There's no swooning
after Hollywood stars

or dotting over billionaires.

All are equal on this island.

And that's what many of these
prominent people love about it.

Here they can walk the streets,

grab a meal, or relax on the beach
without being harassed.

Outside the resort or every house

there is a bougainvillaea.

This is kept since
the 15th, 16th centuries.

The Venetian times.

The Venetians brought
this plant to the island.

The Venetians bought
the bougainvillaea?

Yes.
Oh, OK.

I noticed some orange ones
back there.

I've never seen range
bougainvillaea. First time.

It's beautiful with the white,

you know, the Cycladic white,
beautiful street.

As lovely as a walkthrough
the narrow laneways was,

I was more interested in exploring
the more historic parts of town,

starting with the ruins of
the Venetian castle.

So, this is basically the castle,

just these houses
next to each other.

It's a small castle, isn't it?

Yes. There's one.

It's more beautiful
during the night.

Right?

There are many events taking place

throughout the summer here.

This is the main bastion, isn't it?
This is it.

This is the centre

and these houses
form the perimeter.

Exactly.

Three story houses here as well.

Three story.

So, you know what I love about
this castle?

People are still living here
for the last 600 years.

It's continually inhabited.

Like the castle was back then,
it's still now.

Is this like Kimolos and Sifnos?

It's one of the first castellos
that was not built

on the mountain like
those castles.

And also this castle
is one of the first models

of castle that
was built in Cyclades.

Right, OK, so, tell me,
this hasn't changed.

I look at islands like
Koufonisi and Mykonos

where they're fully developing.

This is a bit...

You don't want development here
as much, do you?

No, I don't like it.
No.

You don't like it.
Why? What's the difference?

We want to keep the island...

Traditional.

Traditional
and not so overdeveloped.

Right, right.

You wanna
keep this sort of thing?

Yes.

Fantastic, mate. I love it.

It's a beautiful island,
but it's hot now.

(LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER)
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This type of castle design

relied upon the outer walls
of the homes

to act as their
defensive fortifications.

The houses were built
in a circular fashion,

facing inwards,
and there was only one entrance gate

to the inner part of the castle.

It was an effective way to create
a walled town in a low-lying area

where you didn't have the protection
of a high mountain position.

Over the centuries,
many of the homes have deteriorated,

but as the island becomes wealthier,

the locals can afford
to restore them.

Antiparos attracts
all sorts of people,

and a particular note

is the significant number of
wealthy and famous individuals

that aren't just coming here
for a holiday,

but buying homes on the island.

They're drawn to the sense
of freedom they have here.

There's space to feel like
you've escaped the crowds,

but it's civilised enough
to have all the comforts.

There's the beauty of the landscapes
coupled with the friendly locals,

but above all else,
there's the stress-free lifestyle.

Gaurav is a great example of
the type of highly successful person

drawn to Antiparos.

He comes here with his family

to be in a place
where he feels settled,

happy, and can be fully present
for his wife and kids.

How do you find it?

I mean, you run a fairly well,
a very big business.

You're part owner
of a cricket team...

(LAUGHTER)

..and you fly
between India and London.

I mean, we're talking about
two major populous...

and then you come here.

I mean, how do you find it?

Well, for me,
it's a very special place

because as you say,
I travel a lot.

I work hard.

That causes me to be away

from my children
and my family and my wife.

And that's never a nice thing,
but it's a necessary thing.

You live the life
you have to live

and the six weeks we spend here
is my time to be with my family

and to be with my wife
and children

and to be with the friends
that I have here

and the community...

But you're in the middle
of nowhere, mate.

I know, but...
You're in the middle of nowhere.

The few people that are here,
we've become so close to them

and they've become
such good friends of ours

and their children have
become friends of our children

and it's just,
you know, we just got lucky.

We just got really lucky
and it turned out to be great

and we love it.

Well, I mean,
that's a great story.

You're gonna...
Is this something that is lifelong?

Are you gonna keep this house
as your holiday house

for a long, long time?

I hope so.

A lot of people say to me,

"Oh, Antiparos has become
so expensive.

"The property prices
have gone up."

To me, it's immaterial.

I mean, that's not
what we were looking for.

We're looking for
a place to call home

and this is our summer home

and god willing it will be
in the family forever.

Oh, that's fantastic.

You know, the mistake we made,
to be honest with you

is we have two children
and one house.

So, if we were smart,
we would've bought two houses.

Yes.

But sadly, they're gonna have
to figure it out and stay friends.

But we hope this will be lifelong
and beyond that as well.

What I love Gaurav

is that you've planted
your own trees down there.

You've got olives.
You're almost Greek, mate.

Maybe in my last life.

Can we go down
and have a look at them?

Sure, absolutely.
Let's go.

Gaurav spends his working life

in two of the busiest cities
in the world.

So, I can understand why

he and many others have chosen

Antiparos
as their quiet place of respite.

A few months of summer sun
in a peaceful place like this

is the ideal way
to recharge and reconnect.

(THEME MUSIC)

I'm here in the Cave of Antiparos

and let me preface by saying that

the human race
has this thing about the longest,

the furthest, the shortest,
the quickest...

These sorts of milestones,
I, sort of, don't understand it,

but we've got a couple here.

This baby in front of me
is 45 million years old.

It is the largest and oldest
static mine in all of Europe.

And this cave is an upright cave.

It goes down a 100m,
has no water at the bottom.

There's no other cave
like it in Greece.

So, we're gonna go down

and possibly read some of
the graffiti that's down there.

It's known for its graffiti.

I've seen a lot of
caves in my travels

throughout the Greek islands,
and I have to say

that this one on Antiparos
has to be one of my favourites.

You really get a sense of its size

when you come to its back here,
it's huge.

I mean, after 45 million years,
you'd think they'd give it a name.

They have, they call it,
peloria kentriki colona,

which in English means
huge central column.

Lot of thought went into that.

Wow!

Wow.

Have a look at this.

The chambers are getting bigger.

As you get lower.

That thing in front of me,

I mean, that looks like an organ
in some, sort of, cathedral.

It's huge.

Now, there is a chamber
that goes to the left

and there is a chamber
that goes down to the right.

This is the one that I wanna look at

because it's got
a fair bit of graffiti

from the last 300 years.

And have a look.
I mean, look at this.

This is just...

I mean, there's not
enough expletives.

These stalactites grow at around
0.1mm per year.

So, you can imagine how long
it's taken for these beauties

to grow to the size they are today.

If you're anything like me,

remembering the difference between
a stalactite and stalagmite is hard.

Here's the trick
to never forgetting,

stalactites have to hold on tight
to hang from the ceiling.

To remember the spelling stalagmite
is spelled with a G for ground

and stalactite
is spelled with a C the ceiling.

About halfway down the cave,

you get a choice of either going
to the left or the right.

If you go to the left, you come
into what's called the cathedral

and it looks like a cathedral.

You look at these stalactites

and they look like
they're part of an organ.

Or you can head down to your right

and that takes you down
to the Royal Hall.

And today, we've chosen
not to go to the Royal Hall

because it's a long, long way down

and everything we wanna see
is on our left.

Let's head over.

The last three centuries
have seen cartographers,

botanists, bishops, Earl's, counts,

even King Otto
and Queen Amalia visit the cave

and leave their signature,
their brand,

their calligraphy,
which is absolutely magnificent.

You see it everywhere.

It's just so impressive
and it's hear

at the extreme end of the cathedral
where you see it,

and it's just good to sit there
and read

like 1876, 1842,

1776.

It's wonderful.

I mean, there's history frozen
in time here,

and then you've got the organ
up there,

and the quietness.

While nowadays,

we know better than to write things
on nature's artworks.

It's incredible to see
how old some of the graffiti is.

There's beautiful calligraphy
dating back centuries,

but their age
pales into insignificance.

When you consider
the millions of years that

some of these stalactites
and stalagmites have existed for.

You lose your sense of time
when in the darkness of the cave,

hours can quickly pass

while you gaze in awe
of the spectacular caverns.

The beauty of these
natural sculptures reminds me

of the marble statues that have been
hued from the stunning white marble

unearthed on nearby Paros.

Perhaps some of the early sculptors

were inspired by
what they discovered here.

In the next episode,
I finish my time on Antiparos

before visiting
a nearby uninhabited island

that has one of the most important
ancient sanctuaries in the Cyclades.

From there, we're headed north

to arguably the best known
island in Greece, Mykonos.

And there, instead of showing you
just the cliched sites,

my plan is
to give you a more

intimate
understanding

of the people
that call it home

and create
the famous vibe

that the island
is known for.

Captioned by Ai-Media
ai-media.tv