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(THEME MUSIC)
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Well, I can't believe
we're already into series six,
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and this year
we're travelling
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to the central Cyclades,
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the most popular
islands in Greece.
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And if we're lucky,
we'll see some of these beasts
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that have been hibernating
for the winter.
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These guys, they can't get into
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the nooks and crannies
that we can get to.
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So, Mia Zoi's gonna take us
right into those lovely islands
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and we'll see the famous one,
Mykonos,
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but also the tiny ones that
you know nothing about.
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I'm really looking forward to this.
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I'm about to jump out of my skin.
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PETER VOICEOVER:
This episode of My Greek Odyssey
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continues my time
on the Island of Iraklia,
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and I've only got a day to cover
everything I want to see.
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From there,
we're cruising across to Paros,
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a much more well-known
and busy tourist destination.
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I'll be exploring the history
and landmarks of the island
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from ancient ruins
to the famed white marble
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as well as some of Mother Nature's
wonders that make Paros so unique.
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Last episode saw me
arriving on Iraklia,
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which for most of you out there
is an island
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you've probably never heard of.
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It's a destination
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where you can be
a stone's throw
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from the busier
holiday spots,
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yet feel like
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you're in the
middle of nowhere.
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Iraklia is the largest island
in the Lesser Cycladic group.
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Some consider it the most beautiful.
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The geography basically follows
the mountain ranges
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between Ios and Naxos.
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And just looking at it,
there isn't a part of it
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that you can't not like.
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The port faces north,
the prevailing winds,
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as a result,
seafarers don't come here.
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There are more discerning tourists.
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There's eight hiking trails.
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No pharmacies, no bank,
no garbage tip.
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They actually take their
garbage off the island to Naxos.
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There's nothing here,
but there's a lot here.
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The population
of the island is small,
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however,
it is a modern developed feel,
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perhaps
it's because everything is so clean
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and the houses are so vibrant.
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Outside of the pretty beaches,
the hiking is fantastic
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and there are some really
interesting ruins
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that are well worth checking out.
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The beaches are quiet
with clear water and soft sand.
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Plus, if you're into
your war history,
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there's an awesome plane wreck
at Palia Alimius Beach,
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which you can easily snorkel
or dive on.
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Having spent some time
in the water already,
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it was time for another hike,
and joining me was Fanis.
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He's immensely intelligent
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with a wealth of knowledge
about the island.
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So, Fanis,
what keeps you here?
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The peacefulness of the island.
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Yeah.
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I lived in Athens for some years,
but I found that
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this type of life
was not suitable for me.
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Too stressful?
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Too stressful,
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and I always wanted
to live in Iraklia,
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to a peaceful place.
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I thought that money
isn't everything.
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Yeah.
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Here you can have
quality in your life.
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Right.
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When I first met Fanis,
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I thought our planets
just weren't aligned.
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You see,
Fanis is an incredibly smart guy
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with a few more terabytes
in his cranium
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than I have in mine,
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and that disparity
can create some awkwardness.
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There was a purpose
to everything he said and did.
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No small talk or banter,
just the facts about
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where we were
and what we were doing.
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He's a lot like the many engineers
I've dealt with over the years.
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However, behind that clinical facade
is a man with great passion
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for his island home.
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I soon took a shine to him
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and learned about
his desire to escape
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the stresses of the modern world,
yet still live a life of purpose
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that adds value to his community.
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So, Fanis,
you're a mechanical engineer,
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your brother's
a mechanical engineer,
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your father's a mathematician,
your grandfather's a mathematician?
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Yes.
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This is, as we say,
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the (SPEAKS GREEK)
or something like that.
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You're in a
very relaxed environment.
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How does an engineering mind
cope with what you're doing here?
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University mainly opens your mind.
Yeah.
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Then you are free
to do anything you want.
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And what we wanted
was to come back here
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in the island
and stay here permanently.
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And now I work
in the hotel industry.
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The trails are well-marked
and easy to follow,
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easy in the sense of navigation,
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but not so easy when it comes
to the physical effort involved.
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Maybe we'll see some of them today.
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This is unusually green for Iraklia.
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Yes, and as you can see,
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the trees here are much bigger
than the other places.
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Probably there must be
some underground water
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because of the shape of the land.
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But in general,
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Iraklia is quite green compared
to the other islands.
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There you can see
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the nearby small Cyclades,
that's Schinoussa.
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Behind Schinoussa on the left
you can see Koufonisi.
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Right.
On the north there is Naxos.
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Right.
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Now, let's move because we are near
our final destination.
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Fantastic.
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Fanis moved with an intensity
and purpose that often left me
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feeling like I was chasing him.
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To him, this amazing scenery
is just another regular day.
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For me, it was too amazing
not to slow down
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and just take in this
majestic scenery.
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So, I occasionally
asked Fanis to wait up a little
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while I caught up.
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Maybe it's just that
he's full of youthful exuberance
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or perhaps
I'm getting a bit slower as I age.
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Fanis, I understand there's almost
174 different bird species
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here on the island.
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Some coming from
as far as Madagascar.
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Yes, this island
is ideal for the birds
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because it only has a few people
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and it has a lot of cliffs
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with places for the birds
to have their nests.
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And here we have
some famous falcons,
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like the Eleonora's falcons
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who migrate here from Madagascar
and stay here during summer.
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They have their nests
in some small islands
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in the south west of Iraklia.
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Right.
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Also, the island's famous
for the vultures
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who have their nests
near the place we're going now.
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Right.
And also for a couple of Eagles.
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Eagles as well?
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Eagles as well.
Yeah.
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Everyone
has a different personality.
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I can tell you that most of the time
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dealing with engineers
is hard enough,
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but trying to get eye contact
from Fanis was near impossible.
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Somehow in the back of my mind,
I knew that his high power brain
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was probably struggling
to deal with my craniums,
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much smaller capacity.
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Fanis,
are all the eight hiking trails
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as well manicured and as beautiful
as this on the island?
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Yeah, I would say even better.
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All of our hiking trails
are very well-preserved.
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Look at the bits down there.
The colours are amazing.
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Yes, pretty cool. Wow.
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The height here is almost 150m.
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Wow.
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Now, you understand why the vultures
want to stay at this region.
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Yeah.
They have this magnificent view.
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Wow.
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And actually
that's one vulture there,
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if you can see it.
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Oh, yeah. Just over there.
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It's huge. 2.40cm.
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Wing span.
Exactly.
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Look at it go.
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It exploits the hotter currents
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in order to take some height
without moving its wings.
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It doesn't want to spend
too much energy
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because it's very rare for it
to find some food to eat.
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Let's say once every month.
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And what's it eating?
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Mostly dead goats.
They do not hunt.
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The goats that live free
on the mountains.
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That is such a beautiful site
within a beautiful area.
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I mean,
I'm happy just to sit here now
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for a while before we go back.
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Good idea.
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We should stay a while
and enjoy the view.
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Yeah.
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It took a while,
but Fanis finally warmed up
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to me and cracked a smile.
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How couldn't you after
a wonderful walk like that
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with such a magnificent view
at the end?
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This was to be
my final few hours on Iraklia
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and I couldn't think of a better way
to spend them.
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In the brief time
I was on the island,
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I'd come to understand
a little of what life
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is like for locals.
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It's a sleepy place,
ideal for the independent traveller
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that doesn't need
an exciting night life
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and shopping strips.
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Here you need to find
your own entertainment,
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which is in stark contrast
to my next destination, Paros.
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(THEME MUSIC)
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We left Iraklia
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where the sea was calm
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and the wind was minimal,
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but rounding the corner
in our journey to the Northwest,
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we were confronted
with the seasonal winds
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that this part of the Cyclades
is known for.
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It made for a bumpy ride
that wreaked havoc,
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not only on the boat,
but the film crew too.
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The change in weather
was similar to the contrast
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between the two locations.
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I had left one of the smallest
and quietest islands in Greece
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and was about to lay anchor
at one of the largest
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and most densely populated.
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We're all used to seeing those
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beautiful photos
of the Greek islands
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with that still,
reflective blue turquoise water.
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And you think, wow,
but it's not always like that.
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00:10:10,560 --> 00:10:14,040
In the Cyclades,
we got something called the Meltemi,
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which is a wind that comes
from the north
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and this happens occasionally,
and for the last three or four days
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it's been like that in the Cyclades
and I've been shaking around.
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00:10:22,760 --> 00:10:24,960
I've got a bit of a headache,
to be honest with you.
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But the good thing about
the Cycladic islands
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is they're small
and you can take your boat
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and go around the corner
or you can just drive
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to the other side of the island
and it's flat.
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That's what the captain's
doing right now,
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'cause we're here in Paros
and the Meltemi's hitting hard.
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Paros, what a beautiful island.
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And in antiquity
in the 7th, 8th century,
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it was at its peak.
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Known for its beautiful,
white, soft, sculptable marble
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that they use on these
wonderful sculptures.
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Venus de Milo,
the Nike of Samothrace,
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lots and lots of stuff.
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Anyway.
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Today, those sculptures are gone,
the marble's in quarries
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that are no longer used
and all we're left with
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00:11:05,240 --> 00:11:07,520
is this beautiful
Cycladic architecture
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and some wonderful beaches
with 13,500 people on this island,
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00:11:12,320 --> 00:11:15,880
and it's visited
yearly by millions of people.
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I personally am looking forward
to walking through Paros,
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00:11:20,760 --> 00:11:23,840
having a swim
and hopefully out of the wind.
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With the wind
howling along the coast,
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we decided to start
our exploration of Paros
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00:11:32,280 --> 00:11:33,720
in the heart of the island.
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00:11:33,800 --> 00:11:35,720
But first,
here's a little bit more about
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00:11:35,800 --> 00:11:37,680
what you can expect when you visit.
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00:11:37,760 --> 00:11:40,160
The main port
and capital is Parikia.
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00:11:40,240 --> 00:11:42,840
This is the commercial
and cultural centre of the island
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and where all the ferries
come and go.
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00:11:45,120 --> 00:11:46,920
The other major settlement
is Naousa,
251
00:11:47,000 --> 00:11:49,640
which feels more like
a modern fishing village.
252
00:11:49,720 --> 00:11:51,840
Both have their charms
and attract tourists
253
00:11:51,920 --> 00:11:53,560
from all four corners of the globe.
254
00:11:54,680 --> 00:11:57,480
A drive between the two locations
gives you a feel
255
00:11:57,560 --> 00:11:59,640
for just how big the island is.
256
00:11:59,720 --> 00:12:01,400
The farmland makes it seem as though
257
00:12:01,480 --> 00:12:03,560
you're in a remote
corner of the Aegean,
258
00:12:03,640 --> 00:12:06,120
but arriving at the port,
you quickly discover
259
00:12:06,200 --> 00:12:07,840
that it's a thriving destination
260
00:12:07,920 --> 00:12:10,360
with constant movement
of holiday makers
261
00:12:10,440 --> 00:12:11,680
coming and going.
262
00:12:11,760 --> 00:12:14,520
The buzz of Parikia harbour
is constant.
263
00:12:14,600 --> 00:12:16,680
Every day
there are ferries arriving,
264
00:12:16,760 --> 00:12:19,160
loading and unloading tourists
like sheep.
265
00:12:19,240 --> 00:12:22,440
It's an island that might have
a very transient population,
266
00:12:22,520 --> 00:12:25,760
but at the core there's a community
of passionate locals
267
00:12:25,840 --> 00:12:26,960
that maintain a semblance
268
00:12:27,040 --> 00:12:30,160
of the unique culture
that Paros has.
269
00:12:30,240 --> 00:12:31,520
To get my bearings,
270
00:12:31,600 --> 00:12:35,080
I made my way east of the island
to the monastery of Agios Antonios.
271
00:12:35,160 --> 00:12:36,680
Perched high on a hill,
272
00:12:36,760 --> 00:12:39,720
it provides beautiful views
across Paros and the sea.
273
00:12:39,800 --> 00:12:41,800
However,
as pretty as the setting is,
274
00:12:41,880 --> 00:12:45,080
it's the historic significance
that really drew me there.
275
00:12:45,160 --> 00:12:47,760
It's a place where
behind the present day peace
276
00:12:47,840 --> 00:12:50,400
and serenity lies a terrible past,
277
00:12:50,480 --> 00:12:52,240
with events that
devastated the island
278
00:12:52,320 --> 00:12:54,520
for generations.
279
00:12:54,600 --> 00:12:56,480
We're on one of the highest points
of the island.
280
00:12:56,560 --> 00:13:01,240
This is Kefalos, and behind me
is the monastery of Agios Antonios.
281
00:13:01,320 --> 00:13:04,400
It's here where the last days
of the Venetian rule
282
00:13:04,480 --> 00:13:05,800
were played out.
283
00:13:05,880 --> 00:13:10,240
In 1537,
the Ottoman Admiral Barbarossa
284
00:13:10,320 --> 00:13:12,280
invaded the island.
285
00:13:12,360 --> 00:13:15,720
Up here the islanders gathered,
they fought them off
286
00:13:15,800 --> 00:13:19,400
as much as they could,
but some 6,000 were
287
00:13:19,480 --> 00:13:21,560
either slaughtered
or taken prisoner.
288
00:13:22,880 --> 00:13:25,680
Only one man escaped to Venice.
289
00:13:25,760 --> 00:13:27,440
He wasn't born here
290
00:13:27,520 --> 00:13:28,760
and he was only here
for a short time.
291
00:13:28,840 --> 00:13:31,280
He had absolutely no attachment
to this place
292
00:13:31,360 --> 00:13:34,680
other than his aristocratic lineage.
293
00:13:34,760 --> 00:13:39,640
Bernardo Sobrado,
the Venetian overlord, he lived.
294
00:13:39,720 --> 00:13:40,760
The islanders...
295
00:13:42,960 --> 00:13:44,000
need I say more.
296
00:13:48,520 --> 00:13:51,880
This echoes an all too common
and unfair theme
297
00:13:51,960 --> 00:13:54,000
that has occurred
throughout history.
298
00:13:54,080 --> 00:13:58,000
Those with power and wealth
often escape the horrors of war
299
00:13:58,080 --> 00:14:00,760
using their political connections
and fortune
300
00:14:00,840 --> 00:14:03,000
as a means by which to avoid
the suffering
301
00:14:03,080 --> 00:14:06,040
that the poor or common folk
are subjected to.
302
00:14:06,120 --> 00:14:08,600
In this case, the Barron was spared
303
00:14:08,680 --> 00:14:11,680
while countless islanders
were killed or enslaved,
304
00:14:11,760 --> 00:14:15,040
leaving Paros largely deserted
for many years.
305
00:14:16,960 --> 00:14:19,280
In the centuries
since the Ottoman invasion
306
00:14:19,360 --> 00:14:21,440
and decimation
of the people of Paros,
307
00:14:21,520 --> 00:14:23,600
the island has seen
other dramatic periods
308
00:14:23,680 --> 00:14:25,280
that have tested the populace.
309
00:14:25,360 --> 00:14:27,600
Most recently
there was the Nazi occupation
310
00:14:27,680 --> 00:14:29,000
of the Second World War,
311
00:14:29,080 --> 00:14:30,720
but in the last 60 years or so,
312
00:14:30,800 --> 00:14:32,440
there has been
somewhat of a rebirth,
313
00:14:32,520 --> 00:14:34,200
led largely by the tourism boom.
314
00:14:36,360 --> 00:14:38,760
With the arrival
of large numbers of visitors
315
00:14:38,840 --> 00:14:40,360
came money and industry,
316
00:14:40,440 --> 00:14:43,480
which meant the island could prosper
and support more people.
317
00:14:43,560 --> 00:14:48,160
Today, it's a thriving destination,
full of energy and rich in culture.
318
00:14:48,240 --> 00:14:49,880
It would seem that
perhaps the trials
319
00:14:49,960 --> 00:14:52,680
of the past have shaped a people
of great resolve
320
00:14:52,760 --> 00:14:54,240
and motivation to succeed.
321
00:14:55,440 --> 00:14:58,840
Paros is now a modern,
developed and flourishing island.
322
00:14:58,920 --> 00:15:02,040
It's a place that welcomes outsiders
with open arms
323
00:15:02,120 --> 00:15:04,680
and embraces all cultures
into the community.
324
00:15:04,760 --> 00:15:08,960
Many that visit end up as locals,
and those that only come once,
325
00:15:09,040 --> 00:15:12,680
leave with fond memories
of an island that has it all.
326
00:15:12,760 --> 00:15:16,560
For me, I'm very open about
my preference for the smaller,
327
00:15:16,640 --> 00:15:18,200
quieter destinations.
328
00:15:18,280 --> 00:15:20,960
Towns like this
with their alleys and shops
329
00:15:21,040 --> 00:15:22,880
are popular for most tourists
330
00:15:22,960 --> 00:15:26,240
and also a welcome change for me
from the peaceful islands.
331
00:15:26,320 --> 00:15:27,560
But when in the crowds,
332
00:15:27,640 --> 00:15:29,680
I find myself longing
for the serenity
333
00:15:29,760 --> 00:15:31,720
of somewhere off the beaten path.
334
00:15:32,880 --> 00:15:36,160
One thing I really appreciate
about islands like this
335
00:15:36,240 --> 00:15:38,600
is that when visiting them,
you can pack a lot more
336
00:15:38,680 --> 00:15:40,160
into a short amount of time.
337
00:15:40,240 --> 00:15:42,480
Travellers can get a taste
for the full gamut
338
00:15:42,560 --> 00:15:44,840
of what Greece has to offer.
339
00:15:44,920 --> 00:15:46,600
I've been walking the streets
and I've just seen
340
00:15:46,680 --> 00:15:48,000
something I've never seen before.
341
00:15:48,080 --> 00:15:50,120
I've got to go in and try it.
I'm just so hungry, you know.
342
00:15:52,480 --> 00:15:54,000
Hello.
How are you?
343
00:15:54,080 --> 00:15:55,960
Not too bad. That looks fantastic.
344
00:15:56,040 --> 00:15:57,480
Can you make me one of those?
345
00:15:57,560 --> 00:15:58,600
Of course.
346
00:15:59,840 --> 00:16:01,080
That's way too much.
347
00:16:03,280 --> 00:16:05,680
Some almonds or biscuit?
348
00:16:06,320 --> 00:16:07,520
OK. I'll have the sugar-free.
349
00:16:07,600 --> 00:16:12,640
And I think
you like very much the Ferrero.
350
00:16:12,720 --> 00:16:14,760
No, I'll have the sugar-free.
Give me the sugar-free.
351
00:16:14,840 --> 00:16:16,680
(LAUGHS)
352
00:16:16,760 --> 00:16:17,920
Can you take this?
353
00:16:18,000 --> 00:16:20,880
I opted for what I thought
was the healthiest option.
354
00:16:20,960 --> 00:16:23,920
Watching it being prepared,
I don't think the word healthy
355
00:16:24,000 --> 00:16:25,560
has ever been uttered in this shop.
356
00:16:25,640 --> 00:16:27,080
But I convinced myself that
357
00:16:27,160 --> 00:16:29,680
leaving without trying it
was just too unfair
358
00:16:29,760 --> 00:16:31,440
to the My Greek Odyssey viewers.
359
00:16:31,520 --> 00:16:32,720
(LAUGHS)
360
00:16:35,800 --> 00:16:37,240
So, you're ready.
361
00:16:37,320 --> 00:16:39,160
Thanks.
So, enjoy it.
362
00:16:39,240 --> 00:16:40,920
Thank you, Tatiana. Thank you.
363
00:16:41,000 --> 00:16:42,120
You're welcome.
364
00:16:42,200 --> 00:16:45,240
I think I'm gonna be sharing
this with the cameraman,
365
00:16:45,320 --> 00:16:48,360
the sound lady,
the producer, the director,
366
00:16:48,440 --> 00:16:49,760
and possibly everybody outside.
367
00:16:51,440 --> 00:16:53,880
Would you like mastika?
368
00:16:53,960 --> 00:16:56,280
No? OK.
369
00:16:56,360 --> 00:17:00,720
You have to try something
very special and very tasty.
370
00:17:00,800 --> 00:17:01,960
Very tasty.
371
00:17:03,240 --> 00:17:04,400
This is for you.
372
00:17:05,520 --> 00:17:07,520
This is for the cameraman.
373
00:17:07,600 --> 00:17:09,920
Wow, that's tsoureki.
It's called tsoureki.
374
00:17:10,000 --> 00:17:13,640
Yes. It's tsoureki.
It's Greek tsoureki with mastika.
375
00:17:13,720 --> 00:17:14,840
You don't try?
376
00:17:14,920 --> 00:17:16,600
No, I'm having this.
What are you talking about?
377
00:17:16,680 --> 00:17:17,760
How much can I have?
378
00:17:18,880 --> 00:17:20,560
Only this.
No. There's enough in here.
379
00:17:20,640 --> 00:17:21,800
OK, I eat it.
380
00:17:23,840 --> 00:17:26,000
I haven't even got down
to the sugar-coated cone yet.
381
00:17:26,080 --> 00:17:27,320
I'm gonna take a bite out of it.
382
00:17:28,480 --> 00:17:30,760
I can't even take a bite out of it.
383
00:17:33,760 --> 00:17:35,440
Trying to attack this thing.
384
00:17:35,520 --> 00:17:37,280
Do it again.
385
00:17:37,360 --> 00:17:39,040
Yeah. Wow.
386
00:17:43,880 --> 00:17:45,200
Look,
I'm trying to break it up here,
387
00:17:45,280 --> 00:17:47,440
but it's just too hard.
388
00:17:48,760 --> 00:17:51,160
Here we go. Here we go. Here we go.
Here we go. Here we go.
389
00:17:54,160 --> 00:17:56,360
Good. It's good.
390
00:18:11,600 --> 00:18:14,160
(THEME MUSIC)
391
00:18:22,280 --> 00:18:25,760
To continue the story about
the Venetian period of Paros.
392
00:18:25,840 --> 00:18:28,920
I made my way back to Parikia
and met with Avgi,
393
00:18:29,000 --> 00:18:30,840
a local archaeologist.
394
00:18:30,920 --> 00:18:33,200
Our walk took us
through the quaint village,
395
00:18:33,280 --> 00:18:36,400
which had been built in and around
the ruins of the old castle.
396
00:18:38,040 --> 00:18:40,960
We call it a castle,
but don't think of a castle
397
00:18:41,040 --> 00:18:43,920
like you would find in Central
or Northern Europe.
398
00:18:44,000 --> 00:18:46,600
What we mean by castle here
399
00:18:46,680 --> 00:18:48,360
is practically a neighbourhood
400
00:18:48,440 --> 00:18:50,600
where the upper aristocracy
would live
401
00:18:50,680 --> 00:18:54,200
and where the people would find
refuge in times of danger.
402
00:18:54,280 --> 00:18:59,080
Created by the Venetians
who arrived here in 1206,
403
00:18:59,160 --> 00:19:03,480
but built this tower in 1260.
404
00:19:03,560 --> 00:19:07,920
It was Marco Sanudo from Naxos
who came and built this tower
405
00:19:08,000 --> 00:19:12,560
and instead of pulling out new stone
to build this castle,
406
00:19:12,640 --> 00:19:15,240
they just demolished the temples.
407
00:19:15,320 --> 00:19:19,840
Basically the Temple of Athena
that was on the Acropolis of Paros.
408
00:19:19,920 --> 00:19:23,960
And then they took also material
from the Temple of Demeter.
409
00:19:24,040 --> 00:19:28,120
These are the drums from the columns
of the Temple of Athena.
410
00:19:28,200 --> 00:19:33,400
And they raised this tower,
which was originally 90m high,
411
00:19:33,480 --> 00:19:36,120
from where the sentinel
that was standing in that
412
00:19:36,200 --> 00:19:39,080
round little building
that comes from the Tholos,
413
00:19:39,160 --> 00:19:42,280
another ancient building of
Paros, could watch the sea
414
00:19:42,360 --> 00:19:44,840
and warn the inhabitants
and warn the Venetians
415
00:19:44,920 --> 00:19:46,800
that the enemy was coming.
416
00:19:46,880 --> 00:19:49,720
When we say the castle here,
we mean a neighbourhood
417
00:19:49,800 --> 00:19:54,160
which is protected
by the outer walls of the houses.
418
00:19:54,240 --> 00:19:59,240
They form a kind of onset,
which is what in a normal castle
419
00:19:59,320 --> 00:20:01,240
would be the ramparts of a castle.
420
00:20:03,280 --> 00:20:06,400
You see this type of construction
throughout the Cyclades.
421
00:20:06,480 --> 00:20:10,080
Islands like Serifos, Sifnos,
and even Folegandros,
422
00:20:10,160 --> 00:20:13,560
have similar features
where the Venetians reused materials
423
00:20:13,640 --> 00:20:14,760
for their buildings.
424
00:20:14,840 --> 00:20:16,360
And then in the centuries
that followed,
425
00:20:16,440 --> 00:20:18,120
homes were built in and amongst,
426
00:20:18,200 --> 00:20:21,080
around and on top of the remnants
of the fortresses.
427
00:20:21,160 --> 00:20:24,440
Even to this day,
people live in the small houses
428
00:20:24,520 --> 00:20:27,680
amidst the narrow alleys
of these historic places.
429
00:20:27,760 --> 00:20:30,680
It's quite unique.
And to be honest, a bit romantic.
430
00:20:35,320 --> 00:20:38,360
Avgi, I can see houses
on top of these walls.
431
00:20:39,840 --> 00:20:41,720
Well, this is like
the inner circle
432
00:20:41,800 --> 00:20:44,360
of the so-called castle
with the houses
433
00:20:44,440 --> 00:20:46,400
of, let us say,
the high aristocracy.
434
00:20:46,480 --> 00:20:48,080
And you see
the huge blocks of marble
435
00:20:48,160 --> 00:20:49,520
that have been used.
436
00:20:49,600 --> 00:20:53,280
You see the lintel from the gate
of the temple of Athena
437
00:20:53,360 --> 00:20:54,920
and the side of it.
438
00:20:55,000 --> 00:20:58,280
And from the size of these blocks,
you can imagine,
439
00:20:58,360 --> 00:21:01,280
you can guess the size of this gate
and the size of the temple.
440
00:21:01,360 --> 00:21:03,160
Of the temple of Athena? Yes.
Yes.
441
00:21:03,240 --> 00:21:05,400
Because to me, that's the big thing.
Look at the size of that.
442
00:21:05,480 --> 00:21:06,480
That's huge.
443
00:21:06,560 --> 00:21:09,960
But this wall basically goes
all the way around the whole...
444
00:21:10,040 --> 00:21:14,400
Yes. It is like a circle.
And then there's the outer circle.
445
00:21:14,480 --> 00:21:17,960
And there were two gates
leading in and out of the castle,
446
00:21:18,040 --> 00:21:21,760
which would close at night
or when there was an attack
447
00:21:21,840 --> 00:21:24,160
of the pirates
or of the Ottoman Turks
448
00:21:24,240 --> 00:21:27,760
that eventually conquered
the island of Paros
449
00:21:27,840 --> 00:21:33,080
in 1536 under the leadership
of that terrible famous pirate.
450
00:21:33,160 --> 00:21:35,480
Barbarossa.
Barbarossa, yes.
451
00:21:35,560 --> 00:21:38,120
The destruction
of temples and sacred sites
452
00:21:38,200 --> 00:21:40,040
for the purposes of erasing history
453
00:21:40,120 --> 00:21:42,640
and stamping your authority
on a conquered land
454
00:21:42,720 --> 00:21:45,000
is something that has gone on
through the ages.
455
00:21:45,080 --> 00:21:46,960
It's a tragic outcome of war
456
00:21:47,040 --> 00:21:50,040
that has seen the loss
of countless important monuments,
457
00:21:50,120 --> 00:21:52,960
art, temples,
and other items of cultural
458
00:21:53,040 --> 00:21:54,360
or historic value.
459
00:21:54,440 --> 00:21:56,120
But sometimes new powers
460
00:21:56,200 --> 00:21:58,400
add to the aesthetic
of the lands they seize,
461
00:21:58,480 --> 00:22:00,360
integrating
their religion and beliefs
462
00:22:00,440 --> 00:22:02,320
into those
of the people they conquer.
463
00:22:02,400 --> 00:22:03,960
When St Helen,
464
00:22:04,040 --> 00:22:07,120
the mother of the Emperor
Constantine the Great,
465
00:22:07,200 --> 00:22:10,720
set out for Jerusalem
to find the Holy Cross,
466
00:22:10,800 --> 00:22:13,400
she had to stop in Paros
for a few days.
467
00:22:13,480 --> 00:22:15,880
While she stayed here,
she came here
468
00:22:15,960 --> 00:22:18,800
where there was a small chapel,
just a small chapel,
469
00:22:18,880 --> 00:22:20,640
not the big church you see today.
470
00:22:20,720 --> 00:22:24,400
And she prayed to the Holy Virgin
for guidance and help
471
00:22:24,480 --> 00:22:26,920
since she did want
to get to Jerusalem
472
00:22:27,000 --> 00:22:28,360
and find the Holy Cross.
473
00:22:28,440 --> 00:22:30,760
Well, eventually
she was able to leave
474
00:22:30,840 --> 00:22:34,360
and to go to Jerusalem
where she did find the Holy Cross.
475
00:22:34,440 --> 00:22:38,520
And that's where the chapel
of the Holy Sepulchre is right now.
476
00:22:38,600 --> 00:22:41,720
And she had made the promise
to the Holy Virgin
477
00:22:41,800 --> 00:22:43,480
that if she found the cross,
478
00:22:43,560 --> 00:22:44,680
she would come back here
479
00:22:44,760 --> 00:22:47,040
and build a big church
in her honour.
480
00:22:47,120 --> 00:22:48,920
So, she did go back
to Constantinople,
481
00:22:49,000 --> 00:22:50,040
but there she died.
482
00:22:50,120 --> 00:22:52,000
And her son, Constantine,
483
00:22:52,080 --> 00:22:55,040
he decided
to fulfil his mother's promises.
484
00:22:55,120 --> 00:22:59,760
So, he sent architects, money,
workers from Constantinople
485
00:22:59,840 --> 00:23:02,560
to build this church,
which is an imperial church.
486
00:23:02,640 --> 00:23:06,360
Two centuries later,
another emperor, Justinian,
487
00:23:06,440 --> 00:23:08,360
will take an interest
in this church.
488
00:23:08,440 --> 00:23:11,720
And after building
a Hagia Sophia in Constantinople,
489
00:23:11,800 --> 00:23:13,960
he will send his architect here.
490
00:23:14,040 --> 00:23:16,480
And he will send the necessary money
491
00:23:16,560 --> 00:23:20,120
and material
to change the original roof,
492
00:23:20,200 --> 00:23:23,040
wooden roof of the church,
because this was a basilica
493
00:23:23,120 --> 00:23:26,000
with a wooden roof
initially in the 4th century.
494
00:23:26,080 --> 00:23:29,840
But Justinian wanted
absolutely to change this roof
495
00:23:29,920 --> 00:23:31,480
with a beautiful stone dome.
496
00:23:31,560 --> 00:23:35,280
The model for this dome
is the dome of Hagia Sophia,
497
00:23:35,360 --> 00:23:38,200
which was the first dome church
in the world.
498
00:23:38,280 --> 00:23:42,800
So, this church is connected
to two of the greatest emperors
499
00:23:42,880 --> 00:23:44,280
of the Byzantine Empire.
500
00:23:44,360 --> 00:23:47,240
I understand the oldest baptistery
is also here as well.
501
00:23:47,320 --> 00:23:48,560
Yes.
Can we have a look at that?
502
00:23:48,640 --> 00:23:49,720
Sure.
follow me.
503
00:23:51,240 --> 00:23:53,560
It's amazing to think that
this building exists
504
00:23:53,640 --> 00:23:54,880
because of a promise.
505
00:23:54,960 --> 00:23:58,000
And not only is it still standing
in pristine condition,
506
00:23:58,080 --> 00:24:00,720
but remains
in use for its original purpose.
507
00:24:01,880 --> 00:24:04,600
It would be filled with water.
There are steps.
508
00:24:04,680 --> 00:24:08,240
So, the person to be baptised
would go in from this side,
509
00:24:08,320 --> 00:24:10,440
which is the west,
and would come out
510
00:24:10,520 --> 00:24:12,360
through the water
towards the other side,
511
00:24:12,440 --> 00:24:13,640
which is the east.
512
00:24:13,720 --> 00:24:15,600
And I see
there's also some frescoes.
513
00:24:15,680 --> 00:24:17,480
These are original frescoes?
They are.
514
00:24:17,560 --> 00:24:19,440
But you have to imagine
that the baptistery
515
00:24:19,520 --> 00:24:21,200
was covered in fresco paintings.
516
00:24:21,280 --> 00:24:25,160
You couldn't see the stones
like you see them nowadays.
517
00:24:25,240 --> 00:24:27,640
And there were mosaics on the floor.
518
00:24:27,720 --> 00:24:28,680
Wow.
519
00:24:28,760 --> 00:24:31,880
So, it was really
a very, very splendid monument
520
00:24:31,960 --> 00:24:36,800
with light coming through,
because this is what baptism did.
521
00:24:36,880 --> 00:24:38,480
It enlightened people.
522
00:24:38,560 --> 00:24:40,960
Yeah. Very nice.
523
00:24:44,400 --> 00:24:46,200
An interesting story is that
it was built
524
00:24:46,280 --> 00:24:48,400
on top of an ancient temple site.
525
00:24:48,480 --> 00:24:50,800
And stones from that shrine
have been recycled
526
00:24:50,880 --> 00:24:53,280
and used in the walls
of the baptistery.
527
00:24:53,360 --> 00:24:55,920
If you didn't do your research
or come here with a guide,
528
00:24:56,000 --> 00:24:59,000
you'd be none the wiser
and miss these subtle details
529
00:24:59,080 --> 00:25:01,920
that add so much depth
to the story of the place.
530
00:25:05,960 --> 00:25:09,600
There's a calmness to the setting
that befits its significance.
531
00:25:09,680 --> 00:25:11,800
And regardless
of your stance on religion,
532
00:25:11,880 --> 00:25:14,000
it's hard not to be moved
when standing here.
533
00:25:24,400 --> 00:25:27,320
(THEME MUSIC)
534
00:25:38,840 --> 00:25:41,640
Just 4kms east of the main port,
535
00:25:41,720 --> 00:25:44,520
you'll find these
old, dilapidated buildings
536
00:25:44,600 --> 00:25:45,880
from the 19th century.
537
00:25:47,040 --> 00:25:49,120
It's here where
French mining companies
538
00:25:49,200 --> 00:25:52,040
exploited the local stone
in the 1800s.
539
00:25:52,120 --> 00:25:55,680
Long before them, it was the Romans,
but hidden away
540
00:25:55,760 --> 00:25:57,520
beneath the open quarries
541
00:25:57,600 --> 00:26:00,440
are deep cave-like intrusions
into the earth.
542
00:26:00,520 --> 00:26:02,920
They're the remnants
of the first miners here,
543
00:26:03,000 --> 00:26:06,720
the ancient Greeks, 2,500 years ago.
544
00:26:06,800 --> 00:26:10,400
These are the origins
of the famed white marble of Paros.
545
00:26:12,280 --> 00:26:14,720
We're in the centre of the island,
Marathi.
546
00:26:15,920 --> 00:26:18,600
And there's this massive opening
down there.
547
00:26:18,680 --> 00:26:21,600
It looks like it's some,
sort of, speleologist's wet dream.
548
00:26:21,680 --> 00:26:23,640
But no, it's not a cave.
549
00:26:24,800 --> 00:26:28,840
This in fact is an ancient quarry.
550
00:26:28,920 --> 00:26:31,960
And what you see in front of you
doesn't look like any good stone.
551
00:26:32,040 --> 00:26:35,840
I mean, take it off the wall
and it's brown stuff,
552
00:26:35,920 --> 00:26:37,080
but that's just the weathering.
553
00:26:37,160 --> 00:26:39,800
Turn it around and it's marble.
554
00:26:39,880 --> 00:26:41,400
Marble from Paros is considered
555
00:26:41,480 --> 00:26:43,600
some of the best marble
in the world.
556
00:26:43,680 --> 00:26:46,480
And in antiquity
it was the best sculpturing marble
557
00:26:46,560 --> 00:26:49,440
in the world
and ends up looking like this.
558
00:26:49,520 --> 00:26:52,640
And that is a shaft that goes
deep into the earth.
559
00:26:52,720 --> 00:26:54,320
And it was unique to Paros
560
00:26:54,400 --> 00:26:58,240
because no one else
quarried into the earth.
561
00:26:58,320 --> 00:27:00,320
They followed the best seams.
562
00:27:00,400 --> 00:27:02,640
And we're gonna go down there
and have a good look at it.
563
00:27:02,720 --> 00:27:05,360
Some of the best sculptures
in the world
564
00:27:05,440 --> 00:27:06,640
have come out of here.
565
00:27:10,160 --> 00:27:12,400
I have to say,
coming here on your own
566
00:27:12,480 --> 00:27:13,840
is not advised.
567
00:27:13,920 --> 00:27:15,560
It's actually quite dangerous.
568
00:27:15,640 --> 00:27:18,080
And we were granted
special permission to film it.
569
00:27:18,160 --> 00:27:19,240
And behind the scenes
570
00:27:19,320 --> 00:27:21,720
we had someone supervising
our safety.
571
00:27:21,800 --> 00:27:24,160
So, watch this,
log it in your memory,
572
00:27:24,240 --> 00:27:26,200
and then visit the museum instead.
573
00:27:28,000 --> 00:27:31,920
The trajectory of this shaft
is just so steep.
574
00:27:33,000 --> 00:27:36,080
The amount of work involved
in cutting
575
00:27:36,160 --> 00:27:38,240
and then extracting that stone,
576
00:27:38,320 --> 00:27:40,320
that marble would've been huge.
577
00:27:40,400 --> 00:27:43,040
And you'd think,
why didn't they just
578
00:27:43,120 --> 00:27:44,120
quarry from the surface?
579
00:27:44,200 --> 00:27:45,400
Well, they did.
580
00:27:45,480 --> 00:27:48,480
They did quarry from the surface,
but the quality of the stone,
581
00:27:48,560 --> 00:27:51,600
the marble on the surface
was nowhere near
582
00:27:51,680 --> 00:27:53,840
what they were pulling out
of this vein.
583
00:27:53,920 --> 00:27:58,080
And it became known as
the lychnites Parian marble.
584
00:27:58,160 --> 00:28:00,720
Lychnites means lamp in Greek.
585
00:28:00,800 --> 00:28:02,680
Now, there's two meanings there.
586
00:28:02,760 --> 00:28:06,640
One is that they
would cut the marble
587
00:28:06,720 --> 00:28:09,160
using lamps for the light.
588
00:28:09,240 --> 00:28:12,200
And the other one is that the marble
589
00:28:12,280 --> 00:28:16,200
that comes out of here allows light
to go through
590
00:28:16,280 --> 00:28:19,320
to about 7cms, they say.
591
00:28:19,400 --> 00:28:23,240
And that's like three or four times
more than any other marble.
592
00:28:23,320 --> 00:28:27,120
So, much so that they used
this marble for the tiles
593
00:28:27,200 --> 00:28:29,480
on the Parthenon at the Acropolis.
594
00:28:29,560 --> 00:28:31,000
It's a soft
595
00:28:31,080 --> 00:28:35,600
and easily worked marble.
596
00:28:35,680 --> 00:28:38,120
They used
this for the Venus de Milo,
597
00:28:38,200 --> 00:28:40,520
which is in the Louvre,
for the Nike,
598
00:28:40,600 --> 00:28:42,280
the Nike in the Louvre.
599
00:28:44,680 --> 00:28:46,400
The problem here was
600
00:28:46,480 --> 00:28:48,760
that this shaft
was so small in size,
601
00:28:48,840 --> 00:28:50,360
they couldn't pull out big slabs,
602
00:28:50,440 --> 00:28:52,480
so they couldn't use it
for major construction.
603
00:28:52,560 --> 00:28:56,120
All they could use it
for was statues and figurines.
604
00:28:56,200 --> 00:28:59,280
And in many cases
it would be two pieces.
605
00:28:59,360 --> 00:29:03,240
One piece just it wasn't the size.
606
00:29:03,320 --> 00:29:07,640
And in other instances,
they'd only use the good,
607
00:29:07,720 --> 00:29:10,120
good Parian marble
for the head only.
608
00:29:11,240 --> 00:29:13,200
Anyway, that goes down forever.
609
00:29:13,280 --> 00:29:15,160
And there's a couple of shafts
coming off it,
610
00:29:15,240 --> 00:29:16,800
and I'm starting
to get a bit claustrophobic.
611
00:29:16,880 --> 00:29:18,280
I'm gonna get out of here
'cause I actually
612
00:29:18,360 --> 00:29:20,920
wanna go to the museum
and have a look at the stuff
613
00:29:21,000 --> 00:29:23,720
that's been cut up
into a Nike that's there,
614
00:29:23,800 --> 00:29:28,280
not the Nike of Samothrace,
but it's a different statue.
615
00:29:28,360 --> 00:29:30,560
So, let's go and check it out
and get out of here.
616
00:29:35,240 --> 00:29:38,360
Very few people are aware
of how famous this quarry
617
00:29:38,440 --> 00:29:40,120
should actually be.
618
00:29:40,200 --> 00:29:42,360
Other than the Venus de Milo
and Nike
619
00:29:42,440 --> 00:29:45,560
that are in the Louvre,
there was Napoleon's tomb,
620
00:29:45,640 --> 00:29:48,640
the treasure
in the Temple of Athena at Delphi,
621
00:29:48,720 --> 00:29:51,800
the Temple of Apollo,
as well as the Temple of Solomon,
622
00:29:51,880 --> 00:29:54,640
all quarried out of Parian marble.
623
00:29:54,720 --> 00:29:56,960
And to think that
these amazing works
624
00:29:57,040 --> 00:30:00,320
have their origins
from these two mine shafts.
625
00:30:00,400 --> 00:30:01,720
Another thing to consider
626
00:30:01,800 --> 00:30:04,280
is that the marble
was quarried by hand.
627
00:30:04,360 --> 00:30:07,760
Even today with the use
of machines and explosives,
628
00:30:07,840 --> 00:30:09,800
it's hard, dangerous work.
629
00:30:09,880 --> 00:30:11,880
Go back a couple of thousand years
630
00:30:11,960 --> 00:30:13,720
and you can imagine
the physical toil
631
00:30:13,800 --> 00:30:16,720
required to chisel the stone away
and then cart it
632
00:30:16,800 --> 00:30:19,360
hundreds of kilometres
across land and sea
633
00:30:19,440 --> 00:30:21,800
for sculptors to then
weave their magic.
634
00:30:21,880 --> 00:30:25,440
But it was a labour of love
as much as one of pure grit.
635
00:30:26,800 --> 00:30:30,080
A lot of people come to a museum
like this one
636
00:30:30,160 --> 00:30:34,520
and like to admire the art,
but in many instances,
637
00:30:34,600 --> 00:30:37,920
there's a story behind the statue
or the piece of artwork.
638
00:30:38,000 --> 00:30:41,720
In this instance,
we have the Nike of Paros,
639
00:30:41,800 --> 00:30:45,360
and she was commissioned
specifically to sit in the square
640
00:30:45,440 --> 00:30:50,640
to celebrate the victory of Paros
against Athens in 480 BC.
641
00:30:50,720 --> 00:30:53,480
She was found in 1885,
642
00:30:53,560 --> 00:30:56,880
armless, headless, and wingless.
643
00:30:56,960 --> 00:30:59,000
But when you have
a close look at it,
644
00:30:59,080 --> 00:31:02,680
beneath that 2,500-year-old patina
that you have there,
645
00:31:02,760 --> 00:31:05,280
you can see the different layers
of clothing,
646
00:31:05,360 --> 00:31:07,720
maybe two or three
different layers of clothing.
647
00:31:07,800 --> 00:31:12,800
And that's come out
because of the wonderful artistry
648
00:31:12,880 --> 00:31:17,320
and the sculpting of that beautiful,
beautiful Paros marble.
649
00:31:18,600 --> 00:31:20,920
The lychnites marble.
650
00:31:21,000 --> 00:31:22,680
Now, let's just check it out.
I've got a piece here.
651
00:31:24,440 --> 00:31:25,840
Is it the same one?
Yes, you bet it is.
652
00:31:25,920 --> 00:31:28,680
Look, it's the same one,
same marble,
653
00:31:28,760 --> 00:31:30,760
and I'll put that back
in the quarry as well.
654
00:31:30,840 --> 00:31:33,200
I don't like taking
anything with me.
655
00:31:33,280 --> 00:31:36,800
Look at that.
We went to the right quarry.
656
00:31:46,280 --> 00:31:49,000
There's a powerful presence
to these statues.
657
00:31:49,080 --> 00:31:52,120
Even today when they're weathered
and incomplete,
658
00:31:52,200 --> 00:31:53,800
they hold so much history
659
00:31:53,880 --> 00:31:56,920
and are a testament
to the artistry of the ancients.
660
00:31:57,000 --> 00:31:59,880
There are stone quarries
across the Mediterranean
661
00:31:59,960 --> 00:32:03,680
and the white marble that
comes from Paros is easily on par,
662
00:32:03,760 --> 00:32:07,520
if not finer than any of the best
you'll find on our planet.
663
00:32:07,600 --> 00:32:09,680
A measure of its quality
is the fact that
664
00:32:09,760 --> 00:32:12,200
it was used
in so many prominent buildings
665
00:32:12,280 --> 00:32:15,560
and works of art,
not only in ancient history,
666
00:32:15,640 --> 00:32:17,680
but throughout the centuries.
667
00:32:17,760 --> 00:32:22,280
It's quite moving to be able to see
these wonderful statues up close,
668
00:32:22,360 --> 00:32:25,640
but even more so to be able to say,
"I've been to the very place
669
00:32:25,720 --> 00:32:28,280
"from which the raw materials
were sourced."
670
00:32:28,360 --> 00:32:30,880
Next for me was to see first hand
671
00:32:30,960 --> 00:32:34,360
how it goes from a simple white slab
to a work of art.
672
00:32:34,440 --> 00:32:37,160
And for that,
I needed to meet a local artisan.
673
00:32:45,760 --> 00:32:48,360
(THEME MUSIC)
674
00:32:56,000 --> 00:32:56,960
Having seen the place
675
00:32:57,040 --> 00:32:59,640
from which the raw Parian marble
is quarried.
676
00:32:59,720 --> 00:33:01,160
The next step in my education
677
00:33:01,240 --> 00:33:02,600
on this beautiful material
678
00:33:02,680 --> 00:33:03,640
was to see
679
00:33:03,720 --> 00:33:04,960
how it's painstakingly
worked
680
00:33:05,040 --> 00:33:06,560
into pieces of art.
681
00:33:06,640 --> 00:33:09,040
An expert
on the subject is Aristides,
682
00:33:09,120 --> 00:33:11,560
who thankfully gave me
a few hours of his time
683
00:33:11,640 --> 00:33:13,720
and a couple of ouzos along the way.
684
00:33:13,800 --> 00:33:17,000
Paros's wealth in ancient times,
was marble, wasn't it?
685
00:33:17,080 --> 00:33:18,120
Yes.
686
00:33:18,200 --> 00:33:22,040
Marble made
Paros great
687
00:33:22,120 --> 00:33:26,080
because Parian marble
was unique.
688
00:33:26,160 --> 00:33:27,920
Let me give you an example.
689
00:33:29,320 --> 00:33:32,200
Even in Old Testament
690
00:33:32,280 --> 00:33:35,920
somewhere says that King David
691
00:33:36,000 --> 00:33:38,920
was watching the Temple of Solomon
692
00:33:39,000 --> 00:33:43,040
and he was proud
because it was so great.
693
00:33:43,120 --> 00:33:48,640
He used gold, silver,
and a lot of Parian marble.
694
00:33:48,720 --> 00:33:51,440
It says in the Old Testament.
695
00:33:51,520 --> 00:33:53,600
Is that right?
It is, Old Testament.
696
00:33:57,720 --> 00:33:59,480
Aristides,
you are using the same tools
697
00:33:59,560 --> 00:34:02,440
as they used in ancient times.
698
00:34:02,520 --> 00:34:05,480
Exactly. Exactly the same tools.
699
00:34:05,560 --> 00:34:08,000
And it's really great to know that
700
00:34:08,080 --> 00:34:11,840
in all those centuries,
701
00:34:11,920 --> 00:34:15,200
the tools of sculpture remain
exactly the same.
702
00:34:15,280 --> 00:34:17,120
Wow.
703
00:34:17,200 --> 00:34:22,160
And how do you know
this is Parian lychnites marble?
704
00:34:22,240 --> 00:34:26,120
There are very, very...
705
00:34:29,120 --> 00:34:31,920
special things.
706
00:34:32,000 --> 00:34:33,160
Qualities?
707
00:34:33,240 --> 00:34:34,640
Yes. And secret.
708
00:34:34,720 --> 00:34:38,760
For example,
Parian marble is very, very famous
709
00:34:38,840 --> 00:34:40,680
because it's very transparent.
710
00:34:40,760 --> 00:34:41,720
Right.
711
00:34:41,800 --> 00:34:45,400
The transparency
of Parian marble is unique.
712
00:34:46,520 --> 00:34:50,720
Even if you compare it
with Carrara marble.
713
00:34:50,800 --> 00:34:53,920
The most transparent marble
of recent time.
714
00:34:55,600 --> 00:34:59,080
Parian marble is extremely,
extremely better.
715
00:34:59,160 --> 00:35:02,160
How much more transparent
than say Carrara marble?
716
00:35:02,240 --> 00:35:05,640
Let me compare it
with Thassos marble,
717
00:35:05,720 --> 00:35:08,040
the Athenian marble
and Carrara's marble.
718
00:35:08,120 --> 00:35:09,080
OK.
719
00:35:09,160 --> 00:35:13,840
Athenian marble
usually goes up to 2, 2.5cms.
720
00:35:13,920 --> 00:35:14,880
Right.
721
00:35:14,960 --> 00:35:17,800
Carrara's marble
sometimes goes to 5.
722
00:35:17,880 --> 00:35:18,840
Right.
723
00:35:18,920 --> 00:35:24,440
I have found Parian marble
more than 35cms.
724
00:35:24,520 --> 00:35:25,840
The light going through?
725
00:35:25,920 --> 00:35:27,400
Yes. Did you put the light?
726
00:35:27,480 --> 00:35:28,840
I thought it's about 7cms.
727
00:35:28,920 --> 00:35:31,040
But it's...
728
00:35:31,120 --> 00:35:33,280
You read
many, many different things.
729
00:35:33,360 --> 00:35:34,320
Yes. Yes.
730
00:35:34,400 --> 00:35:40,000
I can even now put a light here
and you see it like that.
731
00:35:40,080 --> 00:35:41,760
So, this piece that
you're working on at the moment,
732
00:35:41,840 --> 00:35:43,000
how long has it taken you?
733
00:35:45,640 --> 00:35:47,360
It depends.
Yeah.
734
00:35:47,440 --> 00:35:52,080
Because you cannot really use it
as common element.
735
00:35:52,160 --> 00:35:53,160
Right.
736
00:35:53,240 --> 00:35:54,680
But as an entity,
737
00:35:54,760 --> 00:35:56,920
you have to be sure
what you are doing.
738
00:35:57,000 --> 00:35:59,880
Yeah.
So, when you have inspiration...
739
00:35:59,960 --> 00:36:01,120
You work on it?
Yeah.
740
00:36:01,200 --> 00:36:02,640
When you don't, you don't?
Yeah.
741
00:36:02,720 --> 00:36:07,240
You are patient
to start again and again.
742
00:36:07,320 --> 00:36:09,360
So, especially this part,
743
00:36:09,440 --> 00:36:10,960
I hope to finish it this year,
744
00:36:11,040 --> 00:36:13,440
but four years I'm working on it.
745
00:36:13,520 --> 00:36:14,760
Wow. I see.
746
00:36:14,840 --> 00:36:16,000
You'd be going off and on this one.
747
00:36:16,080 --> 00:36:17,760
This is one of your longest, right?
Yeah. Yeah.
748
00:36:17,840 --> 00:36:19,800
What happens if you make a mistake?
What do you do?
749
00:36:19,880 --> 00:36:21,040
You throw it.
750
00:36:23,800 --> 00:36:25,760
One little mistake, it's gone?
751
00:36:25,840 --> 00:36:26,960
You throw it.
752
00:36:27,040 --> 00:36:30,760
Can you show me
some of your finished pieces?
753
00:36:30,840 --> 00:36:32,320
Oh, yes, of course. Come.
754
00:36:32,400 --> 00:36:33,960
Let's put that aside
and we'll go and have a look
755
00:36:34,040 --> 00:36:35,200
at some of your finished pieces.
756
00:36:35,280 --> 00:36:38,880
Aristides places immense purpose
into his sculptures.
757
00:36:38,960 --> 00:36:42,320
Each piece is an expression
of not only what the stone inspires,
758
00:36:42,400 --> 00:36:44,400
but his life experiences as well.
759
00:36:44,480 --> 00:36:48,160
Inspiration comes from nature,
the people he meets, poetry,
760
00:36:48,240 --> 00:36:49,920
every facet of his life.
761
00:36:50,000 --> 00:36:52,240
The challenge then
is to clearly express
762
00:36:52,320 --> 00:36:53,880
his vision through the stone.
763
00:36:53,960 --> 00:36:55,560
As much as you can.
764
00:36:56,760 --> 00:36:58,440
Even if you can't shape your life
the way you want,
765
00:36:58,520 --> 00:37:01,920
at least try as much as you can,
not to degrade it.
766
00:37:03,200 --> 00:37:06,320
By too much contact with the world,
by too much activity and talk.
767
00:37:06,400 --> 00:37:08,880
Do not degrade it
by dragging it along,
768
00:37:08,960 --> 00:37:10,200
taking it around there, exposing it
769
00:37:10,280 --> 00:37:12,840
for so often to say
the daily silliness
770
00:37:12,920 --> 00:37:14,520
of social relations and parties
771
00:37:14,600 --> 00:37:17,080
until it comes to seem a boring,
hang on.
772
00:37:17,160 --> 00:37:19,600
Constantine P Cavafy.
773
00:37:21,200 --> 00:37:22,160
He's a poet.
774
00:37:22,240 --> 00:37:25,600
He's a poet
at the middle of 20th century.
775
00:37:25,680 --> 00:37:28,120
Greek from Alexandria of Egypt.
776
00:37:28,200 --> 00:37:30,800
A valuable life lesson
I took away from this is that
777
00:37:30,880 --> 00:37:33,560
wasting your life partying
and looking for pleasure
778
00:37:33,640 --> 00:37:36,960
leaves no legacy,
adding no value to those around you.
779
00:37:37,040 --> 00:37:38,560
You need a greater purpose,
780
00:37:38,640 --> 00:37:41,120
something of meaning
to dedicate your time to.
781
00:37:41,200 --> 00:37:43,480
As a memento
of this special experience,
782
00:37:43,560 --> 00:37:46,120
I just had to buy a piece
to take home with me.
783
00:37:46,200 --> 00:37:49,000
Alex, the show's director
bought himself something too,
784
00:37:49,080 --> 00:37:52,160
so that in the years to come,
when we visit each other's homes,
785
00:37:52,240 --> 00:37:54,960
we will see these
beautiful hand crafted sculptures
786
00:37:55,040 --> 00:37:57,440
hanging on the wall
and can reminisce about
787
00:37:57,520 --> 00:37:59,720
our time on Paros with Aristides.
788
00:38:07,840 --> 00:38:10,520
(THEME MUSIC)
789
00:38:16,240 --> 00:38:18,480
One thing
you're guaranteed of in Paros
790
00:38:18,560 --> 00:38:21,440
is a lot of
sandy beaches
791
00:38:21,520 --> 00:38:23,200
and they're on the north,
792
00:38:23,280 --> 00:38:25,160
south, east, and west coast.
793
00:38:25,240 --> 00:38:26,280
So, it doesn't matter
794
00:38:26,360 --> 00:38:28,200
whether it's the prevailing Meltemi,
795
00:38:28,280 --> 00:38:31,520
the northerly wind,
or any other wind for that matter,
796
00:38:31,600 --> 00:38:34,400
you can find not just one beach,
but a number of beaches
797
00:38:34,480 --> 00:38:38,160
to enjoy
the beautiful Mediterranean,
798
00:38:38,240 --> 00:38:40,440
the Aegean waters,
like they are here.
799
00:38:40,520 --> 00:38:42,520
And I reckon
the best time is the morning,
800
00:38:42,600 --> 00:38:45,760
like these ladies here,
come in early in the morning,
801
00:38:45,840 --> 00:38:47,120
you've got the place to yourself.
802
00:38:47,200 --> 00:38:49,760
It's flat
and it's absolutely awesome.
803
00:38:51,720 --> 00:38:53,120
I just wanna jump in the water.
804
00:38:57,240 --> 00:38:59,560
Swimming is always on the agenda.
805
00:38:59,640 --> 00:39:00,880
Whenever I'm in Greece,
806
00:39:00,960 --> 00:39:03,800
a morning and afternoon dip
are mandatory,
807
00:39:03,880 --> 00:39:08,160
but as inviting as the water was,
I had a beauty treatment to get to.
808
00:39:08,240 --> 00:39:10,440
Now, it's not exactly
what you're thinking.
809
00:39:10,520 --> 00:39:13,920
I wasn't headed to a salon
for a facial and pedicure.
810
00:39:14,000 --> 00:39:17,840
Instead, I was going to experience
Mother Nature's spa
811
00:39:17,920 --> 00:39:19,880
at a beach just a short walk away.
812
00:39:21,720 --> 00:39:23,520
You know
you've come to the right place
813
00:39:23,600 --> 00:39:26,920
when you see people standing around
in the sun covered in mud.
814
00:39:27,000 --> 00:39:30,080
I came across it the day before
when I was out for a walk
815
00:39:30,160 --> 00:39:32,480
and met George
and his family scratching away
816
00:39:32,560 --> 00:39:34,840
at the rocks
and lathering themselves up.
817
00:39:34,920 --> 00:39:38,320
He's an American of Greek heritage
and regularly comes to Paros
818
00:39:38,400 --> 00:39:39,640
to see his relatives.
819
00:39:39,720 --> 00:39:41,960
George, when did you discover
this clay deposit
820
00:39:42,040 --> 00:39:44,400
and this process of...
821
00:39:44,480 --> 00:39:46,480
It's a cheap spa, isn't it?
It's a cheap spa.
822
00:39:46,560 --> 00:39:47,520
Yes. Yes.
823
00:39:47,600 --> 00:39:49,120
If I lived in Paros,
I'd come here once a week.
824
00:39:49,200 --> 00:39:51,080
Yeah.
Look at my skin.
825
00:39:51,160 --> 00:39:52,200
That's from yesterday, is it?
826
00:39:52,280 --> 00:39:54,720
Yes.
Oh, wow.
827
00:39:54,800 --> 00:39:57,000
Well, hopefully my skin
will feel like that after today,
828
00:39:57,080 --> 00:39:58,360
but I've got lots of hair on mine.
829
00:39:58,440 --> 00:39:59,560
You got no hair, mate.
830
00:39:59,640 --> 00:40:00,600
Every time I come,
831
00:40:00,680 --> 00:40:02,080
my cousins tell me another
beach to come to.
832
00:40:02,160 --> 00:40:03,120
"Oh, you got to see this."
833
00:40:03,200 --> 00:40:04,240
So, they give me
a list of ten beaches.
834
00:40:04,320 --> 00:40:05,280
Right.
835
00:40:05,360 --> 00:40:08,720
So, Mary-Beth actually
found this one and made us come.
836
00:40:08,800 --> 00:40:11,600
And my friend, Tim,
who's with us for my birthday
837
00:40:11,680 --> 00:40:12,880
wanted to see it so.
838
00:40:14,120 --> 00:40:16,480
Sixth time here.
This is my first time at this beach.
839
00:40:16,560 --> 00:40:20,880
So, this Kalogeros beach,
which means monk in Greek.
840
00:40:20,960 --> 00:40:22,200
So, I don't know what the...
841
00:40:22,280 --> 00:40:24,600
Oh, mate, not yet, mate.
842
00:40:24,680 --> 00:40:26,640
I got to take the shirt off.
I've got to take the hat off.
843
00:40:26,720 --> 00:40:28,120
I can't get the hat dirty, right,
844
00:40:28,200 --> 00:40:29,720
'cause I've got to use it
for like months.
845
00:40:29,800 --> 00:40:31,560
I'm gonna get started.
You get started.
846
00:40:31,640 --> 00:40:33,680
Look at this gear. It's fantastic.
Look at that.
847
00:40:33,760 --> 00:40:36,080
I'm mixing it up
with a hammer there.
848
00:40:36,160 --> 00:40:37,840
That's taking me like
10 or 15 minutes.
849
00:40:37,920 --> 00:40:39,000
Where's Jerry with his bucket?
850
00:40:39,080 --> 00:40:40,480
He was good...
Natural mud bath.
851
00:40:40,560 --> 00:40:41,920
Yeah, yeah beautiful.
852
00:40:43,240 --> 00:40:44,920
Jerry's gone collecting
some other colour
853
00:40:45,000 --> 00:40:46,400
from somewhere else.
854
00:40:46,480 --> 00:40:50,920
Well, there's red
clay over there and then green.
855
00:40:51,000 --> 00:40:54,200
I've got a feeling this
is very similar to bentonite
856
00:40:54,280 --> 00:40:56,600
and bentonite is a product
that they use
857
00:40:56,680 --> 00:40:59,400
in the construction industry,
but they also use it
858
00:40:59,480 --> 00:41:02,280
pharmaceutically and to do exactly
what you're doing at the moment.
859
00:41:02,360 --> 00:41:04,680
Here we go. Yeah, thanks, mate.
Thanks.
860
00:41:04,760 --> 00:41:07,120
I've been working on, like,
this much for half an hour
861
00:41:07,200 --> 00:41:09,600
and you've got a whole bucket full
in 15 minutes.
862
00:41:09,680 --> 00:41:11,520
Alright. Alright, let's mix that up.
863
00:41:11,600 --> 00:41:12,960
I reckon I can start.
864
00:41:13,040 --> 00:41:14,400
I reckon we can start mudding up,
buddy.
865
00:41:14,480 --> 00:41:16,760
Let's mud up.
Let's mud up. OK.
866
00:41:16,840 --> 00:41:18,680
Alright,
we're gonna take the hat off.
867
00:41:22,320 --> 00:41:25,120
You can pay hundreds of dollars
for a treatment like this,
868
00:41:25,200 --> 00:41:27,560
or come here
and do it yourself for free.
869
00:41:27,640 --> 00:41:28,760
Come to think of it.
870
00:41:28,840 --> 00:41:30,560
This is way better because you meet
871
00:41:30,640 --> 00:41:33,000
great people during the process.
872
00:41:33,080 --> 00:41:34,120
Ready?
873
00:41:34,200 --> 00:41:35,400
(LAUGHS)
874
00:41:37,520 --> 00:41:40,040
The birthday boy. The birthday boy.
875
00:41:40,120 --> 00:41:41,720
Is that right?
Oh, yes. Oh, yeah.
876
00:41:41,800 --> 00:41:43,520
You're 40 today, aren't you, mate?
40?
877
00:41:43,600 --> 00:41:45,000
35.
35.
878
00:41:45,080 --> 00:41:47,600
You're getting younger
every 15 minutes.
879
00:41:47,680 --> 00:41:49,680
Oops, sorry.
Get out of here.
880
00:41:49,760 --> 00:41:51,880
Getting lathered up
by a bunch of Americans.
881
00:41:53,520 --> 00:41:54,760
A word of warning.
882
00:41:54,840 --> 00:41:56,240
If you're hairy like me,
883
00:41:56,320 --> 00:41:58,720
rubbing the mud
in is like exfoliating,
884
00:41:58,800 --> 00:42:00,880
so, it can get a tad uncomfortable,
885
00:42:00,960 --> 00:42:04,840
but the pain is worth enduring
for that wonderful baby soft skin
886
00:42:04,920 --> 00:42:06,240
you end up with.
887
00:42:06,320 --> 00:42:09,480
You've got to be all in with this,
from your head to your toes.
888
00:42:11,120 --> 00:42:12,360
Different colour?
Yeah.
889
00:42:15,080 --> 00:42:17,120
Looks great on the calves.
Right here?
890
00:42:19,640 --> 00:42:21,040
Jerry,
I don't think there's a better way
891
00:42:21,120 --> 00:42:23,800
to celebrate your birthday
than being on your
892
00:42:23,880 --> 00:42:25,920
Patrico Island, as we say.
893
00:42:26,000 --> 00:42:27,040
Say it again?
894
00:42:27,120 --> 00:42:28,560
With good...
with your Patrico Island.
895
00:42:28,640 --> 00:42:29,840
Patrico.
896
00:42:29,920 --> 00:42:32,040
Which is Paros,
which is your Patrico Island,
897
00:42:32,120 --> 00:42:35,480
with good friends and new friends.
898
00:42:35,560 --> 00:42:39,040
Mudded up with a glass of champagne.
899
00:42:39,120 --> 00:42:40,200
Thank you, Mary-Beth.
900
00:42:40,280 --> 00:42:42,320
Oh, we got two bottles?
901
00:42:42,400 --> 00:42:44,640
We got six bottles, mate.
902
00:42:47,480 --> 00:42:49,320
One for each. Here you go.
903
00:42:51,320 --> 00:42:53,120
Oh, here we go.
904
00:42:54,480 --> 00:42:57,360
Evharisto.
Para kalo.
905
00:42:57,440 --> 00:42:58,480
Next.
906
00:43:00,200 --> 00:43:02,240
Happy birthday, mate.
Happy 50th birthday.
907
00:43:02,320 --> 00:43:04,160
Yamas.
Yamas. Yamas. Yamas. Yamas.
908
00:43:04,240 --> 00:43:05,360
Yeah, yeah.
909
00:43:06,480 --> 00:43:07,520
New friends.
910
00:43:09,880 --> 00:43:11,680
Oh, man.
911
00:43:11,760 --> 00:43:13,040
That's good.
912
00:43:13,120 --> 00:43:15,520
Travelling is as much about
the people you meet
913
00:43:15,600 --> 00:43:17,680
as it is about the places you see.
914
00:43:17,760 --> 00:43:19,920
I love unexpected encounters
like this.
915
00:43:20,000 --> 00:43:22,120
One minute
you're having an afternoon walk.
916
00:43:22,200 --> 00:43:23,920
Then the next,
you've made some new friends
917
00:43:24,000 --> 00:43:25,880
and are covering each other in mud.
918
00:43:25,960 --> 00:43:29,400
What I liked most about this lot
was their bond as a family.
919
00:43:29,480 --> 00:43:33,040
They were talking,
laughing and having a great time.
920
00:43:33,120 --> 00:43:35,280
Totally unfazed by
what those passing
921
00:43:35,360 --> 00:43:38,400
by might have thought about them
sitting around covered in mud.
922
00:43:38,480 --> 00:43:42,200
In fact, anyone that was curious
was welcomed into the fold,
923
00:43:42,280 --> 00:43:43,320
just like I was.
924
00:43:43,400 --> 00:43:44,360
Are you feeling it already?
925
00:43:44,440 --> 00:43:49,440
Are you feeling the mud,
the clay tightening up your skin?
926
00:43:49,520 --> 00:43:50,520
Yes.
As it dries up.
927
00:43:50,600 --> 00:43:52,160
Yeah.
Yeah.
928
00:43:52,240 --> 00:43:53,520
Jerry,
you've got a good dentist, mate.
929
00:43:53,600 --> 00:43:57,320
Your teeth are shining.
They're shining. You too, George.
930
00:43:57,400 --> 00:43:58,720
It must be the mud.
It's the mud.
931
00:44:07,200 --> 00:44:08,480
With the mud removed,
932
00:44:08,560 --> 00:44:09,920
I felt rejuvenated
933
00:44:10,000 --> 00:44:13,080
and ready for a couple more days
exploring the island.
934
00:44:13,160 --> 00:44:16,160
In the next episode,
my time on Paros continues
935
00:44:16,240 --> 00:44:19,440
as I check out the coastal scenery
and interior of the island.
936
00:44:19,520 --> 00:44:21,600
As well as meeting
a couple of locals
937
00:44:21,680 --> 00:44:23,080
bringing some modern flare
938
00:44:23,160 --> 00:44:25,760
to the island's millennia
old art scene.
939
00:44:25,840 --> 00:44:28,440
Plus Kyriako is cooking up
an amazing cake
940
00:44:28,520 --> 00:44:29,560
before we up anchor
941
00:44:29,640 --> 00:44:32,200
and head across to nearby,
Antiparos.
942
00:44:51,760 --> 00:44:54,720
Captioned by Ai-Media
ai-media.tv
74062
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