All language subtitles for m.g.o.s06e03.1080p.hdtv.h264-cbfm_track3_[eng]

(THEME MUSIC)

I can't believe
we're already into series six.

And this year we're travelling
to the Central Cyclades,

the most popular islands in Greece.

And if we're lucky,
we'll see some of these

beasts that have been
hibernating for the winter.

These guys,
they can't get into the nooks

and crannies that we can get to.

So, Mia Zoi is gonna take us
right into those lovely islands,

and we'll see the famous one,
Mykonos,

but also the tiny ones that
you know nothing about.

I'm really looking forward to this.

I'm about to jump out of my skin.

PETER VOICEOVER:
In the last episode,

I arrived on Donousa,

an island that sits in the shadow
of its far more popular neighbours.

My plan is to see the sights
of this little gem

before upping anchor
and heading across to Koufonisia,

another of those
diamonds in the rough

that's waiting to be unearthed
by pioneering travellers.

The Cycladic group,
also known as the Cyclades,

are well-known
for the bigger islands

like Santorini, Mykonos, and Naxos.

But to the Southeast,

there's an archipelago
of smaller islands

that are not nearly as
popular,

and they're aptly named
the Lesser Cyclades.

A short boat ride from Naxos,
we started exploring the group

at the north-easternmost
of these islands, Donousa.

When it comes to accommodation here,
there's not a lot on offer,

but that's slowly beginning
to change.

Locals, like the guy
you're about to meet,

are starting to cater
for the increasing numbers

of visitors to the island.

The younger generation
are turning their patriko

or the family summer home,

having been passed down through
the generations,

into smaller hotels or Airbnbs.

Thank you.

Demetris is a great example
of how Donousa

is slowly drawing back
some of the talent

that left for Athens
in search of work.

Your father is a priest?

Yeah.
And he's in Ios now?

Yeah.

So, you grew up with your father

in Santorini and in Ios

when he was a priest?

Yes. Yeah, I was born in 1987.

Yeah.

Until I was two years old,
we was on Santorini.

Yeah.

After my father is moved
on Donousa...

Yeah.

..and also my childhood times
was more...

On Donousa.

Donousa
and especially Donousania, yeah.

So, you've gotten older
and you're here in Donousania?

Yeah.
This is your place?

This is where you live summer,
winter?

Yes.
And there's only what?

120 people on the island.
Yeah.

So, you live here in the winter?
Wow.

It's a very peaceful life here,
isn't it?

Yeah.
Very peaceful.

Yes.

Do you think
you'll ever leave Donousa?

Or this is where you want to be?

You know, "This is what I love."

At the time, this is the way
which I love to do now.

I don't know in the future,
because everything change.

Yes.
You never know.

But to be honest,
'cause was my dream for years here.

Yeah.
Yeah, for years.

Everybody smiles in Donousa.

Everybody's smiling.
Everybody's happy here.

Yeah, that's why we live here.

Yeah. Yeah. Yeah.

We don't have so bad stress...

Yeah.
..anxious.

Only the summertime,
you know, we are quite busy.

Yeah.
Not crazy busy.

And the wintertime,
we are together like, you know...

The type of people
that stay in your apartments

that come to Donousa,

what type of-type of people
are they?

Couples.
Yep.

Also...

Yeah, certainly they love,
for example, the nature.

Yeah.

Most of them, they're hikers.

Right.

And also, most of them,
they want to relax

from the stress of the city.

Yeah. Yeah.
Yeah. I know...

So, it's basically people
that want to hike and relax

and enjoy the beach.

Yeah.
Yeah. Yeah.

I can see that.

One of the major issues faced
by the smaller islands is isolation.

To help counter this
and support the outlying areas,

Greece has created
one of the best ferry systems

in the world.

It's on time, efficient,

and a necessity
as it acts as a lifeline

for those in far away corners
of the country.

The Lesser Cyclades
also has its own independent service

in the form
of the Skopelitis Express.

It's a family-run operation
with just a single boat,

lovingly referred
to by locals as The Little Hero.

The business has been
operating since 1956,

and three generations later,
through summer, winter,

rain, hail and shine,
it's still going strong.

In the warmer months,

it fills up with tourists
and extra services

are put on to cater
for the higher demand.

Come winter,
it's a completely different story.

Because it's so difficult
to get from here,

you've only got Skopelitis.

Skopelitis is important, isn't it?

It's the most important
for the island,

especially the winter time.

And the summertime too,
but the winter is like a...

without Skopelitis,
we don't have life here.

Right.

Because all the transportation,
all the major situations

to go into Naxos,
to do some works also.

Without Skopelitis,
it's very difficult for us.

Someone told me that
Skopelitis is like breathing.

Without Skopelitis,
you can't breathe on this island.

Yeah.

Imagine every year
when Skopelitis stop for a month,

for us it's very, very difficult.

It's very difficult
because actually,

you have to do with Blue Star Naxos.

Yeah.

Blue Star Naxos
helps a lot also on the island,

but it's not like Skopelitis.

Yeah. Yeah.

And have also an example.

This year they fix the port.
Yeah.

And almost for a month,

we didn't have the big one,
Blue Star.

So, we have to move via Skopelitis.

We're going to the Naxos
with Skopelitis.

Right.

And have to go to Athens
and other places.

Right.
Or via Amorgos.

It's like the metro train, isn't it?
Yeah.

You know, but it's just going
amongst the small Cyclades,

the small Cyclades.

Yeah.
And how do you compare Donousa?

Is Donousa
one of the best islands you think?

I think Greece
has very beautiful places,

but Donousa,
if somebody wants to be peaceful,

for relaxing,
I think it's the best one.

One of the best one.

Yeah. I think you're right.

This island isn't for everybody.

It doesn't have bustling night life,

a shopping strip and all the modern

wants and needs of tourists

that come with
the more popular destinations.

But a couple of things Donousa
does have

are beautiful countryside
and wonderful beaches.

It's a place you visit to sit,
read a book, have a swim and unwind.

Ideal for riders, artists and alike
seeking some solace

to practice their craft.

Or if you're Brad Pitt
or George Clooney,

and don't wanna be recognised
by the locals,

this is where
you should spend your time.

(THEME MUSIC)

There isn't much to do

on Donousa other than

swim at its pretty beaches,

eat at the taverns,

or mix with the locals,

who seem to be very hospitable.

Because there's no real

hotel infrastructure here,

accommodation is mixed
in amongst the village,

alongside, above, below,

and sometimes in the very same home
that the villagers are living in.

It's easy to connect with them

because opening up their homes
to strangers

is common in a part of that
small island folitimo

or honour in extending friendship
to strangers that you see elsewhere.

Today, we're blessed.

We're making
a cheese called axialomytzithra,

which is a cheese
that's only made in Donousa,

nowhere else in the world.

And the last person that makes it
is Kibia Yoryia.

We are so blessed.
Her brother Mitzo is here as well.

And Kiyako's here
for a special reason

because this cheese
is made from yoghurt,

and I'm the only Greek
that doesn't eat yoghurt.

So, he's gonna taste it today.

This is the rennet.

The rennet goes
into the goat's milk,

and that's so it...

So, that it stiffens up.

Now, remember,
they're using a manufactured rennet,

but in the old days,
they used to use a bit from a paste

from the gut of the animal,

and that would do the same thing
as the rennet today.

So, we leave that all night

and tomorrow morning

it's gonna look like...

OK.

So, that's what it's going
to look like tomorrow morning.

This encounter
wasn't about the cheese,

it was more about spending some time

with a local family

and being embraced
by their hospitality.

It was a chance to get a snapshot
of a small island culture,

experienced first hand
in the most authentic way.

It's goat's yoghurt.

There's so many different ways
of making cheese.

When we go from Island to Island,
they've got the different ways.

Here, we're making it from yoghurt.

I've never heard of cheese

being made from yoghurt,
except Donousa.

Oh!

(SPEAKS GREEK)

We're gonna hang this
for a couple of days,

and there you go.

The cheese is ready to go,
axialomytzithra.

And I think it's time to taste it.

Can we cut it up or what?
I think we should.

Kyriako's gonna taste it.

What do you think?

You think I should taste it too?

(SPEAKS GREEK)

Very good. Very, very good.

Over the last five series
of My Greek Odyssey,

we've been lucky enough
to visit many islands

and taste the various white cheeses.

And I've got to tell you that
while they all look the same,

the moment you put your tongue
and taste buds to work,

you find that
they're all quite different.

It's similar to discovering

the varying personalities
of the islands themselves,

which on the surface

may all appear alike,
but do a little exploring

and you'll discover that
they're actually very unique.

Something that can get a bit samey
are the beaches,

but in a good way.

Who wouldn't like
the countless pristine sand

and pebble beaches
that you have throughout Greece?

Here on Donousa,
they're generally really quiet

and come with a small kiosk
or tavern.

This one is called Kedros Beach.

I literally picked it at random,
and it turns out it was stunning.

It's one of the more remote patches
of sand on the island,

yet still very civilised.

There's road access here,
but there aren't many cars or taxis,

so, most people just walk along
the coastal paths.

Once here, there's little else
to do other than swim, sun bake,

and then have
a bite to eat at the restaurant.

People come here just for a drink
and snack at the bar.

Add a swim into the mix, and for me,

it's the perfect way
to spend an afternoon.

For such a remote little island
with very limited infrastructure,

it has some nice places like this
very trendy

beach bar called Kedros.

Here at Kedros Bay or Kedros Beach.

The food is wonderful.

A lot of trendy people around,
people swimming down there,

a few naked, some not,
but just a nice place.

He's got his own plants.

What I love is the tomatoes are his,
cucumbers are his,

onions are his.

He's got grapevines. It's nice.

And the food is pretty good.

Can't have stuffed tomatoes
without dipping the bread.

And after this,
I'm going for a swim.

After those stuffed
tomatoes and bread,

I'm all carbed up,
but I could go to sleep,

so, I better jump in the water.

Best medicine.

I probably did this
the wrong way around,

and maybe should have gone
for a swim before I ate.

As they say, it's best not to swim
on a full stomach.

Nevertheless,
I needed to avoid a food coma.

So, with a belly full of the most
amazing lunch,

I set off to explore a shipwreck
I'd read about.

It lies in 4m of water
just beyond the beach.

These are the remnants
of the small steam warship

known as the Orion.

It was scuttled
by the Hellenic Royal Navy

in the early 1940s,
and then shortly after,

refloated by the German Navy,
known back then as the Kriegsmarine.

It was subsequently attacked
by British bombers

of the 603rd squadron
and sunk in these shallow waters.

With such a violent history,
it's ironic that she now sits here

in these peaceful,
picture-perfect surroundings.

The stillness is a striking contrast

to the drama of the ship's final
violent moments.

The beaches of Greece
can have so much more to them

than just sand and warm water.

Frequently, I come across
fascinating sites

that anyone can easily access.

It turns a trip to the beach
into a history lesson

and something far more memorable.

The key to finding these places
is to invest a bit of time

into researching where you're going.

If I hadn't done some reading,
I probably would've never known

what was lying
beneath the clear waters

of this pretty cove.

Come to think of it,
most of those people

sitting in the restaurant
and lazying on the beach

would be none the wiser
that this incredible wreck

from the shore.

(THEME MUSIC)

Throughout our travels,

we constantly need to adjust

our schedule to follow the weather.

But in recent days,

we've been blessed with

a glassy Aegean Sea.

On days like this,

captain Yanni will look at me
and utter one word, "Larvi."

Translated, this means,
"The sea's as smooth as oil."

These are some
of the best cruising conditions

you'll get in this
part of the country.

So, we took full advantage of it,
leaving the main port

and heading to the northeastern
tip of the island.

Here, the plan was to meet
one of the locals

and learn more about
life on Donousa,

as well as highlighting
one of its historic claims to fame.

A common theme that
we've been seeing

through the Smaller Cyclades
of recent,

is the migration of young people
from the major Greek cities

like Athens and Thessaloniki
to the smaller islands.

Many people think
that this is a result

of the financial crisis
and pandemic,

but I believe these events
were only the final motivators

in what's actually
a far wider economic,

social and cultural shift
that's happening

right around the world.

In Greece, people are moving
back to their patriko.

Just like in
other parts of the world,

we're seeing an exodus
from the major cities.

I love that little bayside villages
like Kalotaritissa,

are being revitalised
by young people that

don't need the trappings
of a materialistic lifestyle.

You grew up in Athens?
Yeah.

And you live here
permanently now.

You live here 12 months of the
year?

Yeah.
For the last 1.5 year, I stay here.

And you prefer it here to Athens?
Of course.

Why of course? Why of course?
I don't understand. Why of course?

In Athens, the life it's chaotic.
Yeah.

You cannot see your friends,
talk with the people.

And you go out
and you must make an appointment.

Is that right here?
Here is not like that?

Here, just go to the port
and see everybody.

Yeah.
It's nice.

I saw you the other day
at the port and you were relaxed

talking to your friends there.

Yeah.

What's bringing all these
young people back to Donousa?

Here, the life is more easier.

You don't need so much money
to stay here,

and you have a good quality...

Good quality of life.
..good quality of life.

Yeah. I see.

So, you have the choice to go
to Athens

or everywhere
you like for one month.

So, you can
have a bit of Athens and...

Yeah.
..and come back.

And you've got this.
Yeah.

The island doesn't have
things like a pharmacy.

How do you deal with that?
Like women's things and stuff?

The women's, huh?
Yeah.

Actually,
we have the tourists for the summer,

but in the winter you can...

I don't know,
you can make many things.

Yeah.

You have to...
you can make a garden.

Yeah. Yep.

You have your food from there.

Yeah. Yeah.

Actually, I make...

I don't know how we say in English.

(SPEAKS GREEK)

(SPEAKS GREEK)Oh, you weave. You
weave. Yeah. Yeah.

So... you weave.

Oh, alright.
So, you do that in winter?

Yeah.
The taverns closed in winter?

Yeah.
Yeah. OK.

So, you weave?
Yeah.

And it's very nice.
Very relaxing.

Of course.
Yes, very relaxing.

And you cannot...
don't understand how the day live.

Fanny's grandparents
are in their 90s,

having lived in this village
their entire lives.

But leaving for the city
and returning while

still in your youth
is quite remarkable.

Some seek solace
in the piece of a small island

where they have an almost
long-forgotten cultural bond

with their community
and environment.

Others just don't wanna
chase the increasing pace,

cost of living and time-poor world

that is rapidly evolving
in front of our eyes.

The notion of running away

to a remote paradise
is a dream for many,

but it's an increasingly
popular reality for young Greeks.

This is giving a new lease of life

to islands that were
starting to become deserted.

You've probably never heard
of Donousa

because nothing
has really ever happened here,

but that's not true.

Something happened here
many years ago

that would change
the history of the world forever.

In the days leading up
to World War I,

all the countries were jockeying
positions for their partners.

The Germans
grabbed two battle cruisers

and they headed through
the Mediterranean at pace

towards the Ottoman Empire,
the Turks.

They wanted them to join them
in their fight against the allies.

They came to Donousa to fuel up,
with coal,

these two battle cruisers.

The British saw this happening
and they pursued them with vigour,

but they just couldn't catch them.

There was the opportunity,
but it didn't happen.

The Germans made it to Istanbul,
the Ottomans entered the war,

and as a result,
some say that the war went

on for two years longer.

There's a quote from
Winston Churchill that I love,

and it says
everything about this event.

He says that, "The two German ships,

"which the Royal Navy
had failed to stop

"and intercept at Donousa,
brought more slaughter,

"more misery, and more ruin than

"has ever been before,
born within the compass of a ship."

I mean, that says everything that
such a small,

insignificant island like this,

in the chain of a couple of events,
can change world history.

I love this stuff.

I started by telling you that
this island

doesn't have much more than
wonderful taverns

and beautiful beaches.

However, by this point,
I hope that you can see

there's actually much more to it.

Donousa is a sleepy little island.

It's a place that draws you in

and forces you to slow down
for a while.

Then once you start to move,

as the locals do,
things start to open up.

The character of the place emerges

and you are rewarded
with a depth of experience

that's only had in these
quiet corners of Greece.

I may not get a chance
to come back here in my lifetime,

but I'll leave having learned
a few valuable lessons,

and memories that
will live on forever.

Heading out,
the morning sun was glorious,

and the mirror-like Aegean
was a wake boarder's dream.

So, I just couldn't resist
the temptation.

I love these moments
of feeling like a kid again.

Perhaps I was inspired
by the people I had met

and felt the need
to live in the moment.

Who knows?

Maybe tomorrow we'd see wild weather
and I'd have missed my chance.

Whatever the case,
it was the perfect way

to end my time on Donousa.

And in case you're wondering,
thankfully, the tender

was following closely behind
and retrieved my trusty hat.

(THEME MUSIC)

Only 12 nautical miles south west

or a short trip

with the ever-reliable Skopelitis,

are the two islands of Koufonisia,

which despite their close proximity

to each other

could be considered

cultural opposites.

Pano Koufonisi is to the north,

and the more cosmopolitans
of the two.

It's regarded as tomorrow's Mykonos.

The beaches
are some of the best you'll see,

and as a result, Pano Koufonisi

has become a trendy destination
amongst the mainland Greeks.

The shops, accommodation and beaches

are all a stone's strove
from each other,

so, everybody gets around
on foot or by bicycle.

At around 6sqkm in size,
it's a tiny landmass,

but somehow a population
of 400 or more

is sustained through fishing
and tourism.

Across the way
is Kato or Lower Koufonisi,

which is even smaller,
and is almost uninhabited.

With the exception
of some farm houses

for herders
and an extraordinary camping culture

that I've never seen before,
it's

a cross between funky and Bohemian.

Pano Koufonisi has the feel
of a modern tourist-friendly island.

The infrastructure
is quite impressive

for somewhere so far removed
from the busier destinations.

A cycle around the island is a fun

and easy way
to get acquainted with the place.

Around every corner
is another pretty beach

or seaside tavern.

And being so small,
you can't get lost.

Plus, it's relatively flat,

which is a godsend
on a hot summer's day.

Speaking of the heat,
it's hard not to stop

and jump into that stunning water.

You know what?

It's almost too good to be true.

Every beach just gets better.

This is one of those islands
that I encourage you to come to.

Sooner rather than later.

You can see it
has all the ingredients

that make for a really popular
tourist destination,

and it's obvious
they're putting in the ground works

in anticipation
of significant growth.

Someone that's well aware
of the recent growth is Mariata,

who immigrated from Canada.

She's seen first hand
through the eyes of a foreigner,

how things have changed.

So, you're in Naxos for,
I don't know, 10 or 20 years...

Mm-hm.
..and then you came to Koufonisia.

Mm-hm.

How does a big island
compare to a very small island?

You're an expert to be able

to tell us what the differences are.

What are the differences?

Well, first of all,

on a small island,

you can get around on foot.

You can go everywhere on foot.

You don't need a car,
and, you know, it's just beautiful.

And it's such a small island
that has so many beaches

and so many nice spots and views,
different standpoints.

So, it's very easy.
Everything's very easy.

Naxos,
it's a wonderful island as well,

but you need a car,
and you need to drive long distances

to get to spectacular spots
everywhere.

But here you can do everything
on foot.

Tell me something.

I came to Koufonisia
eight years ago,

my god, it's changed.

It has.
What happened?

It has. It's under development.

Yeah.
It's being developed.

Yeah.
It's being developed.

It's catering
to a bit of luxury tourism.

But it seems to me like
it's good development.

There's nothing too extreme
on either side.

It's clean.

The architecture seems to be
fairly sensible,

fairly Cycladic.

Someone said to me they think that
Koufonisia or Pano Koufonisi

is the Mykonos
of the small Cyclades.

Does that sound right to you?
Or is that a bit over the top?

A lot of people are saying that...
Yeah.

..whether or not it's true,
the truth is that it is developing

and people are coming.

Some people are coming
with the intention

of finding a small Mykonos,

and some people
are hoping that another Mykonos

won't be here but it's hard to say.

It really depends on
the local community,

what they want to do.

As much as the development

looks like it's being done with
taste and consideration

for the heritage of the island,
there's no doubt

a certain amount of trepidation
is held by some of the locals.

While change is unavoidable,
commercial demands

will often overshadow
the needs of those

who seek a simpler existence.

Many of the people
who have lived here

for several generations
are seeing things move very quickly.

Rapid growth can strip an island
of its unique identity.

And as it's happened
in other places,

it constrained
the existing infrastructure.

The last eight years have seen
Pano Koufonisi change drastically,

and I'm not sure
what it will look like

in another eight.

All I can hope
is that it doesn't lose

its special character.

I would love to come here
in a decade's time

along with my family
and sit on a quiet beach

and reminisce about
what the island once was

without speaking about it
in terms that

make it seem as though
it's changed for the worse.

For all those romantics out there

that have a vision
of the Greek islands

they've developed
by watching a movie like

'Zorba the Greek' or ' Mamma Mia',

I've got to tell you,
this is probably the closest thing

you'll get to those
nostalgic thoughts.

This is the quintessential
charming Greek island.

It has a little bit of night life,
but not too much.

It has some fantastic beaches,
but they're not overcrowded.

There are some little gems
of historic significance,

but enough freshness that
you'll feel comfortable.

And despite being so small,

there's enough infrastructure
of shops and taverns

to keep you entertained
and well-fed.

It's the complete picture.

The islands of the Lesser Cyclades
were excellent locations

for smugglers and pirates to hide,
and there were no boundaries

for the level of religion
across society.

Here in case, is St George,

and St George was built
with the funds of five smugglers.

I'm told their names
are inscripted on the iconostasis.

Now, there's always been a fine line

between what a smuggler is,

a pirate, the captain of a ship,

in fact, a naval captain.

They're all pretty much the same.

It really depends on
what area you're in.

So, these guys,
although they were called smugglers,

they're actually
part of the community

and they worked.

They worked well
within the community,

and I think we've found it
just here,

and there they are.

Yes.

Now, there were different rules
back then.

I'm not too sure
if the church would necessarily

accept their money today.

(THEME MUSIC)

When I was here eight years ago,

there were very few houses.

Wow, how it's changed.

But although such rapid development

worries me, I'm reasonably

impressed with the sympathetic way
that this island is growing.

There are a number of walking trails
on Pano Koufonisi,

nothing longer than,
sort of, 40 minutes.

And 40 minutes
will get you to where we are now.

That's the beach of Pori.

And this northeastern section
of Pano Koufonisi

is just so special
because the combination

of the geology and the geography
gives you a context

that you won't see anywhere else.

And it just invites you
to walk down there

and have a swim.

As I was making my notes
for the editor,

I got the feeling that
people watching this

may think the island life
I'm showing you

is too good to be true,
but trust me,

it really is, plus so much more.

In the years since
I began this wonderful odyssey,

my mindset has begun to change.

I've met
many people across numerous islands

that are experiencing
a similar way of life.

It's now become so appealing

that my family and I
are starting to consider it

for ourselves.

I need to find my own little house
that preserves my family's

history and culture
for future generations.

So, I'm constantly travelling
through the islands wondering,

"Is this the type of place
I could settle in?"

If I find that idyllic place
to retire to,

I may have to bid farewell
to a family member in Mia Zoi.

You see,
she's more than just a boat.

She's been a part of my life
for many years,

and I feel that I'm not her owner,
but more a custodian.

So, once I've seen each
and every island and I'm settled,

it will be time for me to pass
my beautiful Mia Zoi

onto another family

so, they too can experience this
wonderful odyssey.

Unlike some of the
popular destinations in Greece,

you won't see any marketing
or promotion of this island.

I think it's because the Greeks
are keeping it to themselves,

or perhaps word of mouth is enough,

and they just don't need
to advertise this paradise.

So, at the moment,

Pano Koufonisi
is one of the best kept secrets

in all of the Aegean.

And I'm sorry,
I've let the cat out of the bag.

The few non-Greek tourists that

have stumbled across Koufonisi
come here for its serenity

and authenticity.

Let's hope it remains that way

and doesn't turn
into another party island.

I really can't fault this place.
It's heaven in the Aegean.

This is about
the only beach in Greece that

Mia Zoi can't get us
to because it's inland.

This is called Gala.

And we like this area so much,
we've asked Mia Zoi

to come around the corner

and we're gonna camp
for the night at Xylobati.

There's our baby.

Despite what you might think,
filming My Greek Odyssey,

isn't it as easy as you'd imagine.

Most days, we're out there
for at least 12 hours

travelling from
one destination to another,

trying to meet deadlines
and appointments that

we've made from many months before.

But occasionally
we get to visit a place like this,

where I can let
my flickering hair down,

if you know what I mean,
and just have fun swimming,

basking in the sun,

and relaxing away
from the daily grind.

This is one of the most
photographed bays in Greece.

It's Instagram famous.

However, it's rare to get
such perfect conditions

as it's facing the prevailing winds.

The constant gales
have battered the cliffs

over the many thousands of years,
carving the caves

from sedimentary rock.

Today being so perfect
meant only one thing,

it was time to get out
one of the toys

and do some exploring.

In case
you haven't already worked out,

I love my gadgets,
and this is one of my favourites.

Now, I know why they call them
the hollow Islands, the Koufonisia,

because they're hollow everywhere.

It's pretty impressive. Nice ride.

There are a few places in the world

where you can have such a remarkable
location to yourself.

Anywhere else,
you'd have groups of tourists

flock into the spot.

It was so peaceful and calming

to spend a couple of hours
enjoying the stunning setting.

But as always seems to be the case,
there's a point

at which I start to think about
what's next on the itinerary.

In this instance,

I had a booking in
town for a late dinner.

It's 8:30 and there's still light,
but it's about to be dark,

and normally
I'm about to go to bed at this time,

but I've heard about
Koufonisi at night,

and it's changed
a lot since I've been here before

and there seems to be
a real buzz in the town.

So, tonight, I'm staying up.

Let's see, let's see.

Let's see
if I can stay up first of all.

When I was last here,

this stretch of real estate
was a row of houses.

Now, most of the homes

have made way for
shops and restaurants.

The once sleepy street
is now a buzz with activity,

yet there's still plenty of charm
about it.

(SPEAKS GREEK)

Did you buy one for me too?

Bring him out. Bring him out.
Bring him out.

Bring him out.

Have you got one for me?

(SPEAKS GREEK)

Look at this.
Look at this hole in the wall.

Check it out.
Hey, this is fantastic.

Hey. Bravo.

This is the quintessential Greek
fast food.

You'll find it in every town
on almost every corner,

and generally it's pretty good.

The hole in the wall
added a bit of theatre.

The true measure
of how good something tastes,

is how much talking goes on
when it's first being consumed.

After a few mouthfuls
the only exchange

is an assessment of the quality.

(SPEAKS GREEK)

Eight or nine?
For you an eight or nine too? Wow.

(SPEAKS GREEK)

And we're talking to experts here.

(SPEAKS GREEK)

An eight or nine from these guys

means it's about
as close to perfection

as you can get.

With my hunger pang satisfied,

it was time to go and find
a gift for Helen,

most probably something to wear,
because she very rarely goes out

to shop for herself.

Yes, she's a shopper,
but she's unselfish

and just buys things
for everyone else.

This looks like what will suit you.

Hey?
This will suit you.

Yeah, yeah. Thanks, Mr Cameraman.

Yeah, righto. Yeah. OK.

This looks OK.

37...what size is she?
I can't ring her up now.

I think she's 36 or 38.
Oh, that looks alright.

When it comes
to buying clothes for Helen,

it's a more complex
and nerve-wracking process

than a quarterly board meeting.

But in the end, the smile it brings
is worth every ounce of anxiety.

Yep.

I'm going to buy it for her.

It doesn't matter
what it costs or what I buy,

she just loves the fact that
I was thinking of her.

I'm done. Beautiful.

(THEME MUSIC)

Across from
the port of Pano Koufonisi

is the quiet island

of Kato Koufonisi.

Just a small channel

divides the two,

but they couldn't be

any more different.

Barely 200m separates
these two islands of the Koufonisia.

They're literally brothers,
Pano and Kato Koufonisi,

and yet they are so different
in personality.

Kato Koufonisi is long and large
and Pano Koufonisi is short and fat,

and yet Kato Koufonisi is quiet

and the beaches
are surrounded by campers

and those dwellers,
whereas Pano Koufonisi

is considered the Mykonos
of the small Cyclades,

and it's trendy and full of bars
and restaurants

and very beautiful,
beautiful beaches.

We're just gonna go down here
and see if we can find some campers.

That'll drop soon.

Yeah.

But look at...it's like layers,
layers of sediment.

And that slip plane.
There's a big slip plane there.

Look at this.

Colonus. It's got two columns.

Mate, that looks like
I could tap that with my hand

and it'll fall over.

I love it. It's like Lego.

Yeah, I know. I know.

I know.

I love the sedimentary layer, Yanni.
Look at it.

These landscapes
never ceased to amaze.

They're not just
a geological records

spanning millions of years,

but a work of art
that's constantly changing,

created by Mother Nature.

It's a canvas
that has subtle alterations

made to it to inspire
each new generation.

Inspiration comes in many forms.

For some, the barren landscape
and isolation of an island like this

is their muse, while others need
far more stimulation.

It goes the same
for what motivates tourists.

There's those after
shops, bars, and action,

then there's the minimalist,
drawn to places like this.

There's not really much to see on
Koufonisi except for beaches,

a few campers,
one tavern and two shepherds.

It's early in the morning,
and I think most people

are just sleeping in their tents.

Apparently, there's about 50 campers
on the island at the moment,

but come August,
it's packed with campers.

Must be real party stuff.

Kato Koufonisi
is free from development.

There's no other
modern infrastructure

you find just across the way.

Here it's all about enjoying nature
and the company of others

without the distractions
of shops and crowds.

Some Eleonora's falcon down there.

(CHICKEN CHA-CAWS)

And a rooster.

If you want to spend
a night or two here,

camping is your only option,
which isn't for everyone.

But it does mean
you get to experience

a very different side of Greece

and can find a space
right by the beach.

You can also
just come here for the day,

with a ferry making the journey
every hour during peak season.

It's worth the effort,
even if you just take

a stroll across the island
and go for a swim.

What makes the beaches here special
is that you can generally find

a patch of sand or a little cove,
to have all to yourself.

I can see that the locals

are promoting
the camping by building

some shade structures
right through this-this valley,

and I can see some tents
in the background,

but I just don't wanna go too close

because it's like walking
through someone's bedroom,

being like 20m away.

See how I go.

Give it a few more years,

and these shade structures
will probably be replaced

by more formal
types of accommodation,

like small huts.

And instead of just a single tavern,
there may be a restaurant

at each of the beaches.

As I've seen
just across the channel,

change is unavoidable
and can happen quickly.

Let's hope it's done
with respect for the environment,

and keeping in mind that
for some travellers, less is more.

Now, there's campers
all the way along

this coastline here
at Kato Koufonisi.

I can understand why they come here.
It's just so peaceful.

A bit of wind,
but wow, yeah, free accommodation.

You can't beat it.

It's a rugged stretch of coast
with cliffs

and rocky shores
separating small coves

and stretches of pebbled
and sandy beaches.

It makes for a dramatic setting,
full of unique features,

nooks and crannies,
just begging to be explored.

Much of the seaside
isn't accessible from land,

so, naturally Yanni and I
had to get the tender out

for a closer look.

We're at the bottom
of Kato Koufonisi,

and see that beach behind there?

I reckon
no one's ever stepped on it.

My director's saying,
"Don't say that on camera."

But I'm telling you,
I reckon the only things that

stepped on that beach are goats.

Nobody comes down here.

The campers
are on the north side of the island,

and I love this rock structure.

It's beautiful.

I mean,
there's bits and pieces everywhere.

It's just a conglomeration.
This was below water at one stage.

Have a look at it.
The ocean was up there somewhere.

I just love doing these
recces with captain.

It's so much fun you know.

And if you look around the corner,
you can see Schinoussa,

and that's another one of those
Lesser Cycladic islands.

The half a dozen islands
that are around here.

You can almost swim to it.

The only reason
I wouldn't swim to it

is because I'm gonna get run over
by the amount of fishing boats

and boats that travel
these channels.

It's just such a wonderful spot,
and it's a beautiful day.

I might go for a swim today
just for a change.

What a way to spend
my final afternoon in Koufonisia.

The only thing left to do
was to head for the leeward side

of the island to escape the wind
and find an empty beach for a swim.

In the next episode,

I'm headed to a nearby island
that only archaeologists

are normally allowed to visit.

From there, I'm off to Schinoussa,
where amongst other things,

I'll be exploring
the food and culture

that sets it apart
from neighbouring islands.

After that, I'm steering Mia Zoi

a couple of kilometres westward
to the wild and remote Irakleia,

which might be the largest
of the Lesser Cyclades,

but is one of the
least known.

Captioned by Ai-Media
ai-media.tv