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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:01,080 --> 00:00:04,760 (THEME MUSIC) 2 00:00:23,160 --> 00:00:26,600 Well, I can't believe we're already into series six. 3 00:00:26,680 --> 00:00:27,640 And this year, we're travelling 4 00:00:27,720 --> 00:00:29,280 to the Central Cycladic, 5 00:00:29,360 --> 00:00:31,560 the most popular islands in Greece. 6 00:00:31,640 --> 00:00:32,720 And if we're lucky, we'll see 7 00:00:32,800 --> 00:00:33,760 some of these beasts 8 00:00:33,840 --> 00:00:36,760 that have been hibernating for the winter. 9 00:00:36,840 --> 00:00:38,560 These guys, they can't get into the nooks and crannies 10 00:00:38,640 --> 00:00:39,600 that we can get to. 11 00:00:39,680 --> 00:00:42,760 So, Mia Zoi is gonna take us right into those lovely islands, 12 00:00:42,840 --> 00:00:45,360 and we'll see the famous one, Mykonos, 13 00:00:45,440 --> 00:00:48,800 but also the tiny ones that you know nothing about. 14 00:00:48,880 --> 00:00:50,680 I'm really looking forward to this. 15 00:00:50,760 --> 00:00:53,240 I'm about to jump out of my skin. 16 00:00:53,320 --> 00:00:54,280 PETER VOICEOVER: This episode 17 00:00:54,360 --> 00:00:56,920 continues my time on the Island of Naxos. 18 00:00:57,000 --> 00:00:58,480 It's a huge land mass. 19 00:00:58,560 --> 00:00:59,600 And to do it justice, 20 00:00:59,680 --> 00:01:02,560 you really do need to spend a couple of weeks here. 21 00:01:02,640 --> 00:01:05,600 And to properly appreciate what Naxos has to offer, 22 00:01:05,680 --> 00:01:09,280 you've got to invest the time and energy to walk and talk 23 00:01:09,360 --> 00:01:10,880 with the people that call it home. 24 00:01:15,200 --> 00:01:16,440 In the last episode, 25 00:01:16,520 --> 00:01:18,640 I began unravelling the complexity 26 00:01:18,720 --> 00:01:21,840 of this diverse and colourful destination. 27 00:01:21,920 --> 00:01:23,000 On face value, 28 00:01:23,080 --> 00:01:25,560 you might just see it as an island of beaches, 29 00:01:25,640 --> 00:01:27,240 tourists, and bars. 30 00:01:27,320 --> 00:01:30,640 But once you peel back that initial simple aesthetic, 31 00:01:30,720 --> 00:01:32,640 and start to dig a little deeper, 32 00:01:32,720 --> 00:01:35,080 you see a depth of life and history 33 00:01:35,160 --> 00:01:38,200 that inspires you to keep wanting to unearth more. 34 00:01:38,280 --> 00:01:40,200 It's like being an archaeologist, 35 00:01:40,280 --> 00:01:43,000 where instead of excavating ruins or bones, 36 00:01:43,080 --> 00:01:46,960 you're coming across a wealth of culture and human interactions 37 00:01:47,040 --> 00:01:49,640 that constantly force you to re-evaluate 38 00:01:49,720 --> 00:01:52,480 your understanding of what defines Naxos. 39 00:01:52,560 --> 00:01:54,600 It's an island of contrasts, 40 00:01:54,680 --> 00:01:57,600 where one minute you can walk amongst the crowds on a beach, 41 00:01:57,680 --> 00:01:58,680 then the next, 42 00:01:58,760 --> 00:02:01,480 you can be lost in the peace and serenity of the inland, 43 00:02:01,560 --> 00:02:03,320 where there's little more than a handful of people 44 00:02:03,400 --> 00:02:05,120 living in a mountain village. 45 00:02:05,200 --> 00:02:07,400 There's the modernism of the shopping strip 46 00:02:07,480 --> 00:02:10,080 and contemporary trappings of the tourist haunts. 47 00:02:10,160 --> 00:02:13,240 But then, there's the ancient ruins and old world charm 48 00:02:13,320 --> 00:02:17,360 of the traditional way of life that many Naxians still enjoy today. 49 00:02:17,440 --> 00:02:19,280 This dichotomy of experiences 50 00:02:19,360 --> 00:02:22,000 is what I really love about the place. 51 00:02:22,080 --> 00:02:24,200 Largest island in its group 52 00:02:24,280 --> 00:02:26,960 and the tenth largest island in all of Greece, 53 00:02:27,040 --> 00:02:30,680 Naxos has never really had to rely on seafaring. 54 00:02:30,760 --> 00:02:36,040 Its personality is developed from a large area of agriculture, 55 00:02:36,120 --> 00:02:38,280 and specifically, mining. 56 00:02:38,360 --> 00:02:39,360 And you can see, 57 00:02:39,440 --> 00:02:42,200 from behind me here in the Port of Moutsouna, 58 00:02:42,280 --> 00:02:44,480 there's a bunch of mountains behind us. 59 00:02:44,560 --> 00:02:46,320 And they were exploited 60 00:02:46,400 --> 00:02:50,120 through this port for years and years and years. 61 00:02:50,200 --> 00:02:52,160 And I'm so excited to go and have a look at all that stuff 62 00:02:52,240 --> 00:02:54,280 that's back there, all the engineering stuff. 63 00:02:56,640 --> 00:02:58,200 As pretty as the island is, 64 00:02:58,280 --> 00:02:59,800 there's an industrial heart to the place 65 00:02:59,880 --> 00:03:02,160 that stems from ancient times. 66 00:03:02,240 --> 00:03:05,400 They've long extracted the valuable underground resources, 67 00:03:05,480 --> 00:03:06,720 put them to use locally, 68 00:03:06,800 --> 00:03:09,680 and shipped it offshore as a source of revenue. 69 00:03:09,760 --> 00:03:11,160 The harbour side has decaying remnants 70 00:03:11,240 --> 00:03:12,240 from this past. 71 00:03:12,320 --> 00:03:13,280 However today, 72 00:03:13,360 --> 00:03:16,880 it's no longer a working port, but a place of relaxation. 73 00:03:16,960 --> 00:03:20,560 The warehouses and hoists have been replaced by bars and cafes 74 00:03:20,640 --> 00:03:23,040 that buzz with activity throughout the day. 75 00:03:23,120 --> 00:03:24,440 And the sea that would've once been 76 00:03:24,520 --> 00:03:26,880 full of cargo vessels and fishing boats 77 00:03:26,960 --> 00:03:28,920 is now a place of recreation. 78 00:03:29,000 --> 00:03:31,200 And the workers have been swapped for tourists. 79 00:03:31,280 --> 00:03:32,400 If you didn't do your reading, 80 00:03:32,480 --> 00:03:35,160 you'd be none the wiser as to what this place would've been like 81 00:03:35,240 --> 00:03:37,120 just a handful of decades ago. 82 00:03:37,200 --> 00:03:40,200 But the people of Naxos haven't forgotten their origins. 83 00:03:40,280 --> 00:03:42,600 And there's still some inland mining going on, 84 00:03:42,680 --> 00:03:46,480 albeit at a smaller scale than times gone by. 85 00:03:46,560 --> 00:03:48,800 The surrounding mountains 86 00:03:48,880 --> 00:03:52,920 are full of this hard and extremely heavy rock. 87 00:03:53,000 --> 00:03:54,040 Wow! 88 00:03:55,360 --> 00:03:59,320 It's got carborundum in it, magnetite, manganese, 89 00:03:59,400 --> 00:04:02,600 a little bit of titanium, but it is just so hard. 90 00:04:02,680 --> 00:04:06,320 And they've been mining it for 3,000 years. 91 00:04:06,400 --> 00:04:11,360 And until about 150 years ago, it was exclusive to this region. 92 00:04:11,440 --> 00:04:13,720 And don't look at this right now. 93 00:04:13,800 --> 00:04:17,000 You look at this mangled mess of structural steel. 94 00:04:17,080 --> 00:04:20,080 It used to go all the way up for 9km. 95 00:04:20,160 --> 00:04:24,720 And they used to bring this emery all the way down, 96 00:04:24,800 --> 00:04:28,120 take it to Ishmi, and ship it all around the world. 97 00:04:28,200 --> 00:04:32,600 This rock created this stuff, emery, 98 00:04:32,680 --> 00:04:34,400 that glass paper that you normally see. 99 00:04:34,480 --> 00:04:36,880 And they use it for all sorts of stuff. 100 00:04:36,960 --> 00:04:41,320 Today, unfortunately, they use a silica compound. 101 00:04:41,400 --> 00:04:44,840 And it's no longer being mined. 102 00:04:44,920 --> 00:04:49,400 And this is only remnants of how Naxos relied on this stuff, 103 00:04:49,480 --> 00:04:53,040 that rock, for thousands of years. 104 00:04:53,120 --> 00:04:54,360 Wow! 105 00:04:54,440 --> 00:04:56,400 (INSTRUMENTAL MUSIC) 106 00:05:13,320 --> 00:05:17,120 It's a pity that this rock has been replaced 107 00:05:17,200 --> 00:05:23,080 by its synthetic brother and almost long forgotten, 108 00:05:23,160 --> 00:05:25,400 because the mountain it came from 109 00:05:25,480 --> 00:05:28,760 was actually the first mortgage 110 00:05:28,840 --> 00:05:31,600 for the new Greek State's first loan, 111 00:05:31,680 --> 00:05:34,920 and it was actually the first time 112 00:05:35,000 --> 00:05:39,840 that the new Greek State exported a product 113 00:05:39,920 --> 00:05:42,320 anywhere in the world, in 1863. 114 00:05:44,320 --> 00:05:47,240 There are hundreds of them all over Mount Amomaxis. 115 00:05:47,320 --> 00:05:48,320 And the oldest of them, 116 00:05:48,400 --> 00:05:50,720 along with the ground works that supported the miners, 117 00:05:50,800 --> 00:05:53,440 are now preserved by the Ministry of Culture, 118 00:05:53,520 --> 00:05:54,840 as valuable monuments 119 00:05:54,920 --> 00:05:57,600 of the modern industrial history of Greece. 120 00:06:23,680 --> 00:06:26,720 The scale of the now dilapidated development 121 00:06:26,800 --> 00:06:31,400 is a testament to just how valuable a resource emery was. 122 00:06:31,480 --> 00:06:34,400 Huge amounts of infrastructure were built over the years. 123 00:06:34,480 --> 00:06:36,000 As technology advanced, 124 00:06:36,080 --> 00:06:39,080 the efficiency with which they could mine the emery improved, 125 00:06:39,160 --> 00:06:41,440 but at no point was it a safe profession. 126 00:06:41,520 --> 00:06:43,880 The wealth it fostered came at a huge risk, 127 00:06:43,960 --> 00:06:46,680 much like it did for the sponge divers of Kalymnos. 128 00:06:48,280 --> 00:06:51,080 To learn more about the impact of emery on Naxos, 129 00:06:51,160 --> 00:06:53,280 I visited the village of Koronos. 130 00:06:53,360 --> 00:06:56,200 It's a place that has seen, in the most extreme ways, 131 00:06:56,280 --> 00:06:57,280 the boom and bust 132 00:06:57,360 --> 00:06:59,640 that mining mineral resources can create. 133 00:07:07,800 --> 00:07:10,520 The village of Koronos was one of six 134 00:07:10,600 --> 00:07:15,000 that were entitled to exploit the emery from the mines. 135 00:07:15,080 --> 00:07:16,840 As a result, they needed workers, 136 00:07:16,920 --> 00:07:19,560 and the population grew astronomically. 137 00:07:19,640 --> 00:07:23,280 Here alone, there were 3,000 people living at one stage. 138 00:07:23,360 --> 00:07:28,000 Unfortunately, in World War II, the mines were suspended. 139 00:07:28,080 --> 00:07:29,800 And in 1956, 140 00:07:29,880 --> 00:07:31,880 there was a substitute synthetic material 141 00:07:31,960 --> 00:07:34,040 that came out for emery. 142 00:07:34,120 --> 00:07:37,600 The prices of emery dropped through the floor. 143 00:07:37,680 --> 00:07:39,040 People left. 144 00:07:39,120 --> 00:07:44,320 450 people alone in this village died of starvation. 145 00:07:44,400 --> 00:07:47,160 Today, there's only 200 people living here. 146 00:07:47,240 --> 00:07:51,360 And it's a shame, because it's such a beautiful village. 147 00:07:52,680 --> 00:07:55,160 The village is split across two hillsides, 148 00:07:55,240 --> 00:07:57,040 separated by a stream. 149 00:07:57,120 --> 00:07:59,760 It's definitely worth a walk down to the town centre, 150 00:07:59,840 --> 00:08:02,160 which consists of a few taverns and shops 151 00:08:02,240 --> 00:08:04,320 bridging the small waterway. 152 00:08:04,400 --> 00:08:06,360 While there are still plenty of people living here, 153 00:08:06,440 --> 00:08:09,040 the empty buildings make it abundantly clear 154 00:08:09,120 --> 00:08:12,800 that the fortunes of the past are well and truly behind them. 155 00:08:12,880 --> 00:08:15,480 It's a sad reality repeated around the world, 156 00:08:15,560 --> 00:08:16,600 from the gold rush towns 157 00:08:16,680 --> 00:08:18,880 that led to the westward development of America 158 00:08:18,960 --> 00:08:20,480 to the sulphur mines in Sicily 159 00:08:20,560 --> 00:08:23,080 that largely disappeared after World War II. 160 00:08:23,160 --> 00:08:24,280 When it comes to mining, 161 00:08:24,360 --> 00:08:26,080 the cycle of rapid expansion 162 00:08:26,160 --> 00:08:29,200 and even faster contraction is all too common. 163 00:08:33,120 --> 00:08:36,080 (THEME MUSIC) 164 00:08:43,600 --> 00:08:46,120 German-born artist, Ingbert Brunk, 165 00:08:46,200 --> 00:08:49,960 lives near the port of Moutsouna and close to the emery mountains. 166 00:08:50,040 --> 00:08:51,360 He married a Greek woman, 167 00:08:51,440 --> 00:08:54,120 and together they decided to call Naxos home. 168 00:08:54,200 --> 00:08:57,440 Beyond his love for his spouse and their island paradise, 169 00:08:57,520 --> 00:08:59,480 he's also very passionate about the marble 170 00:08:59,560 --> 00:09:02,080 that comes from the hills surrounding his studio. 171 00:09:02,160 --> 00:09:04,360 Unlike most foreigners that pack their bags 172 00:09:04,440 --> 00:09:07,440 and relocate to a Greek island, it wasn't the beaches, 173 00:09:07,520 --> 00:09:10,200 ancient monuments and charm of the lifestyle here 174 00:09:10,280 --> 00:09:12,440 that were the main motivating factors. 175 00:09:12,520 --> 00:09:15,200 It was something much simpler. 176 00:09:15,280 --> 00:09:16,320 And so, it worked out. 177 00:09:16,400 --> 00:09:17,400 I mean, it's worked out. 178 00:09:17,480 --> 00:09:18,520 You've been doing it for 42 years, 179 00:09:18,600 --> 00:09:20,320 so, you didn't make the wrong decision, did you? 180 00:09:20,400 --> 00:09:21,760 No, I think I was quite lucky 181 00:09:21,840 --> 00:09:23,040 that I found so early 182 00:09:23,120 --> 00:09:24,360 what I like, what I wanted. 183 00:09:24,440 --> 00:09:25,440 Yes. 184 00:09:25,520 --> 00:09:28,120 So, immediately, I just went my way. 185 00:09:28,200 --> 00:09:29,600 What brought you to Naxos? 186 00:09:29,680 --> 00:09:31,600 Yeah, actually, the marble, all the marble. 187 00:09:31,680 --> 00:09:36,640 OK, you grow up, there's a big culture of Greece. 188 00:09:36,720 --> 00:09:38,840 There's a big idea of Ancient Greece, 189 00:09:38,920 --> 00:09:40,360 so, it's always something. 190 00:09:40,440 --> 00:09:41,440 You like to go to Greece. 191 00:09:41,520 --> 00:09:42,800 But I found here, 192 00:09:42,880 --> 00:09:44,480 the tradition and I found the stones, 193 00:09:44,560 --> 00:09:46,800 and so, I came here. 194 00:09:46,880 --> 00:09:50,600 You've actually brought back a tradition that is in Naxos. 195 00:09:50,680 --> 00:09:51,680 Yeah. 196 00:09:51,760 --> 00:09:55,240 You are the first sculptor that I know of that has... 197 00:09:55,320 --> 00:09:56,960 in 2,500 years, 198 00:09:57,040 --> 00:10:00,720 that has come to this quarry, has come where the marble is. 199 00:10:00,800 --> 00:10:04,320 Because that's what they used to do 2,500 years ago. 200 00:10:04,400 --> 00:10:08,320 And in the Third Millennium BC, 201 00:10:08,400 --> 00:10:12,120 the sculptors would come to Naxos because that's where the marble was. 202 00:10:12,200 --> 00:10:13,560 Yeah. That's the case, isn't it? 203 00:10:13,640 --> 00:10:14,600 You came here. 204 00:10:14,680 --> 00:10:16,840 I think, it's the best because then you can find... 205 00:10:16,920 --> 00:10:18,840 You get the inspiration of the material. 206 00:10:18,920 --> 00:10:20,520 You find the material. 207 00:10:20,600 --> 00:10:23,720 You don't have to think what I wanna do to order a piece, 208 00:10:23,800 --> 00:10:26,080 that won't be this, what you really want. 209 00:10:26,160 --> 00:10:27,920 So, you see something, say "Oh, that's nice. 210 00:10:28,000 --> 00:10:28,960 "That's inspiration." 211 00:10:29,040 --> 00:10:30,160 Yeah. And you do it. 212 00:10:30,240 --> 00:10:31,440 You came to Naxos. 213 00:10:31,520 --> 00:10:33,520 You could have come to Paros. 214 00:10:33,600 --> 00:10:35,480 You could have gone to Thassos. 215 00:10:35,560 --> 00:10:38,320 Why did you pick Naxos? 216 00:10:38,400 --> 00:10:42,480 It was immediately this crystalline marble, 217 00:10:42,560 --> 00:10:44,440 what normally sculptures don't like, 218 00:10:44,520 --> 00:10:48,760 and I liked it because it's a very lively material 219 00:10:48,840 --> 00:10:52,720 and the translucence and sometimes the colours. 220 00:10:52,800 --> 00:10:55,680 So, I always liked very simple forms. 221 00:10:55,760 --> 00:10:59,320 So, it's an ideal material to make simple forms. 222 00:10:59,400 --> 00:11:01,000 Sculpture is a form, 223 00:11:01,080 --> 00:11:05,680 and just to be able to understand the energy 224 00:11:05,760 --> 00:11:07,760 and the light and whatever of a form, 225 00:11:07,840 --> 00:11:11,000 and then you can be appreciated. 226 00:11:11,080 --> 00:11:13,120 Well, I think it's time for me to walk around 227 00:11:13,200 --> 00:11:15,240 and have a good look at some of your sculptures 228 00:11:15,320 --> 00:11:17,160 because I'm looking... 229 00:11:17,240 --> 00:11:19,680 It's hard to pay attention to the conversation 230 00:11:19,760 --> 00:11:22,640 while there's all this beautiful art in this room, 231 00:11:22,720 --> 00:11:24,760 all these beautiful sculptures. 232 00:11:24,840 --> 00:11:26,240 So, should we have a walk around? 233 00:11:26,320 --> 00:11:27,320 Yeah. 234 00:11:30,120 --> 00:11:32,400 Walking through the studio with Ingbert, 235 00:11:32,480 --> 00:11:34,320 you notice that he has an amazing ability 236 00:11:34,400 --> 00:11:38,520 to make the marble your focus rather than the actual sculpture. 237 00:11:38,600 --> 00:11:40,480 His designs showcase and highlight 238 00:11:40,560 --> 00:11:44,880 the different qualities and textures that the raw material has to offer. 239 00:11:44,960 --> 00:11:48,040 From its wonderful translucence when honed down 240 00:11:48,120 --> 00:11:52,400 to the veins of foreign material that permeate the pale white, 241 00:11:52,480 --> 00:11:54,160 like, the branches of a river. 242 00:11:54,240 --> 00:11:57,040 His art is not so much about the forms he creates, 243 00:11:57,120 --> 00:12:00,440 but the heart and soul of the material he uses. 244 00:12:00,520 --> 00:12:03,080 This is amazing. 245 00:12:03,160 --> 00:12:05,640 This is why I like 246 00:12:05,720 --> 00:12:08,960 the Parian and Naxos marble because the light, 247 00:12:09,040 --> 00:12:10,040 the translucent... 248 00:12:10,120 --> 00:12:11,680 You've got this... It's a feather, isn't it? 249 00:12:11,760 --> 00:12:12,960 It's a feather, yeah. Yeah. 250 00:12:13,040 --> 00:12:14,280 The idea's a feather. 251 00:12:14,360 --> 00:12:16,880 And, yeah, I got these ideas 252 00:12:16,960 --> 00:12:19,200 because to show the translucence of the marble, 253 00:12:19,280 --> 00:12:21,600 and I got also the idea to hang the marble... 254 00:12:21,680 --> 00:12:22,680 Yes. 255 00:12:22,760 --> 00:12:24,720 ..to be able to make very thin pieces, 256 00:12:24,800 --> 00:12:26,760 to be safe in the room. 257 00:12:26,840 --> 00:12:30,440 You don't see hanging pieces of sculpture a lot, 258 00:12:30,520 --> 00:12:31,520 do you really? 259 00:12:31,600 --> 00:12:32,800 No, no, no. Not. 260 00:12:32,880 --> 00:12:34,280 No, no. And this... and this one over here. 261 00:12:34,360 --> 00:12:35,560 And I won't... 262 00:12:35,640 --> 00:12:37,280 You see the... Yeah, yeah. 263 00:12:37,360 --> 00:12:38,480 This is amazing. 264 00:12:38,560 --> 00:12:40,160 You can see the light coming through. 265 00:12:40,240 --> 00:12:41,480 Yeah, yeah, yeah. 266 00:12:41,560 --> 00:12:43,200 And this is several centimetres. 267 00:12:43,280 --> 00:12:44,880 This is what? 268 00:12:44,960 --> 00:12:46,120 2, 3cm there? 269 00:12:46,200 --> 00:12:47,360 3, yeah. 3cm. 270 00:12:47,440 --> 00:12:49,640 The rigid saws 3cm that... 271 00:12:49,720 --> 00:12:55,080 I just went in on the one side and I went in on the other side. 272 00:12:55,160 --> 00:12:58,440 And so, somehow, you can see what is on the back side, 273 00:12:58,520 --> 00:12:59,800 seeing the front side. 274 00:12:59,880 --> 00:13:00,880 Yeah. 275 00:13:00,960 --> 00:13:02,600 So, it's an interesting idea. 276 00:13:04,280 --> 00:13:06,880 Ingbert is a quiet, unassuming man. 277 00:13:06,960 --> 00:13:10,160 Despite the immense talent he obviously possesses, 278 00:13:10,240 --> 00:13:12,880 he expresses himself not through the flamboyance 279 00:13:12,960 --> 00:13:15,280 or overly verbose descriptions of his work, 280 00:13:15,360 --> 00:13:17,120 but through the art itself. 281 00:13:17,200 --> 00:13:19,040 He lets his craft do the talking. 282 00:13:19,120 --> 00:13:22,000 You see, he may be living in this remote part of Naxos, 283 00:13:22,080 --> 00:13:23,560 chiselling away like a hermit, 284 00:13:23,640 --> 00:13:26,400 but Ingbert has actually sent small parts of himself 285 00:13:26,480 --> 00:13:30,640 to art lovers from countless cities and towns dotted around the globe. 286 00:13:33,760 --> 00:13:35,200 Leaving the studio, 287 00:13:35,280 --> 00:13:37,400 my journey took me through the centre of Naxos 288 00:13:37,480 --> 00:13:39,600 to the village of Halki. 289 00:13:39,680 --> 00:13:42,000 With such long and scenic drives, 290 00:13:42,080 --> 00:13:44,040 it's easy to forget you're on an island. 291 00:13:44,120 --> 00:13:46,520 The rolling hills and green valleys 292 00:13:46,600 --> 00:13:49,880 are punctuated by the gold of grain farms. 293 00:13:49,960 --> 00:13:53,120 With so much agriculture and natural greenery, 294 00:13:53,200 --> 00:13:56,440 it's clearly a fertile landscape with decent rainfall. 295 00:13:56,520 --> 00:13:58,480 The abundance of raw beauty compliments 296 00:13:58,560 --> 00:14:01,840 the wealth of striking historic architecture. 297 00:14:01,920 --> 00:14:05,680 Taking a self-guided road trip isn't something most tourists do. 298 00:14:05,760 --> 00:14:09,000 So, generally speaking, it's locals only at most stops, 299 00:14:09,080 --> 00:14:11,400 but occasionally you'll see some more adventurous travellers 300 00:14:11,480 --> 00:14:14,920 leaving the beaches for the day and seeing the heart of the island. 301 00:14:15,000 --> 00:14:17,720 In my opinion, you can't say you know a Greek island 302 00:14:17,800 --> 00:14:19,400 if you haven't spent some time 303 00:14:19,480 --> 00:14:21,720 walking through the quiet villages and towns 304 00:14:21,800 --> 00:14:23,440 away from the seaside. 305 00:14:23,520 --> 00:14:25,440 It's only in these places that you get a sense 306 00:14:25,520 --> 00:14:27,720 of what normal life is like. 307 00:14:27,800 --> 00:14:28,760 If you're lucky, 308 00:14:28,840 --> 00:14:32,360 you can also find somewhere to get a taste of the local cuisine. 309 00:14:32,440 --> 00:14:33,880 The flavours of a destination 310 00:14:33,960 --> 00:14:36,800 are just as important as the sights and sounds. 311 00:14:36,880 --> 00:14:38,840 (LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER) 312 00:14:42,520 --> 00:14:44,880 This is called the Spitiko Galaktoboureko. 313 00:14:44,960 --> 00:14:49,200 The Shop is basically known for its custard pie, 314 00:14:49,280 --> 00:14:51,200 which I absolutely adore. 315 00:14:51,280 --> 00:14:52,560 And I'm gonna try it now because I reckon 316 00:14:52,640 --> 00:14:54,440 it's the best in all of Naxos. 317 00:14:54,520 --> 00:14:56,480 (LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER) 318 00:15:02,120 --> 00:15:04,720 Oh, that looks fantastic. 319 00:15:04,800 --> 00:15:06,440 (LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER) 320 00:15:06,520 --> 00:15:07,560 Wow. 321 00:15:09,520 --> 00:15:11,920 Let's really test this baby out and see what it's like. 322 00:15:15,840 --> 00:15:17,400 Oh, not easy. 323 00:15:18,800 --> 00:15:19,760 Got to grab the whole thing. 324 00:15:19,840 --> 00:15:21,880 (LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER) 325 00:15:21,960 --> 00:15:23,040 She bought a knife. 326 00:15:26,040 --> 00:15:27,080 Wow. 327 00:15:31,400 --> 00:15:34,280 You can really taste the egg in this. 328 00:15:34,360 --> 00:15:36,120 There's nothing better than visiting a shop 329 00:15:36,200 --> 00:15:40,400 that specialises in only one dish, particularly when it's a sweet. 330 00:15:40,480 --> 00:15:41,920 Bravo! 331 00:15:42,000 --> 00:15:43,280 Bravo! 332 00:15:43,360 --> 00:15:44,960 And it's a grandmother that makes it, 333 00:15:45,040 --> 00:15:47,400 not just anybody, it's a grandmother. 334 00:15:47,480 --> 00:15:48,520 Fantastic. 335 00:15:50,920 --> 00:15:53,120 I'm gonna order some for the crew now. 336 00:15:53,200 --> 00:15:55,960 This little store is famous for its Galaktoboureko, 337 00:15:56,040 --> 00:15:58,040 a famous Greek dessert. 338 00:15:58,120 --> 00:15:59,280 I love it so much 339 00:15:59,360 --> 00:16:01,760 that I could eat it any time of the day, 340 00:16:01,840 --> 00:16:03,160 particularly with a coffee. 341 00:16:12,160 --> 00:16:15,120 (THEME MUSIC) 342 00:16:22,040 --> 00:16:25,640 We're in a plantation of Kitron trees. 343 00:16:25,720 --> 00:16:29,320 Now, Kitron is a citrus varietal. 344 00:16:29,400 --> 00:16:34,640 And here, I see a bunch of trees that are roughly ten years old, 345 00:16:34,720 --> 00:16:36,320 and you can see it because of the trunk size. 346 00:16:36,400 --> 00:16:37,440 And you're going, "Wow. 347 00:16:37,520 --> 00:16:38,600 "Why are they so short?" 348 00:16:38,680 --> 00:16:40,000 Well, they keep clipping them down 349 00:16:40,080 --> 00:16:43,600 because they're not growing the tree for the fruit. 350 00:16:43,680 --> 00:16:46,120 They're growing the leaf. 351 00:16:46,200 --> 00:16:50,320 And the leaf is almost a lemon verbena type flavour. 352 00:16:50,400 --> 00:16:52,640 Lemon verbena tea that I love. 353 00:16:52,720 --> 00:16:56,160 And they create a liqueur, 354 00:16:56,240 --> 00:17:00,920 three types, a medium, a sweet, and a dry. 355 00:17:01,000 --> 00:17:03,080 It's only done here in Naxos. 356 00:17:03,160 --> 00:17:06,480 There are only two plantations and distilleries left. 357 00:17:06,560 --> 00:17:10,520 And this one here is from 1875. 358 00:17:10,600 --> 00:17:13,160 It's a fifth generation family that run it. 359 00:17:16,880 --> 00:17:18,800 I just can't get over the smell of it. 360 00:17:18,880 --> 00:17:20,240 Anyway, we're gonna go to the distillery now 361 00:17:20,320 --> 00:17:21,680 and meet the family. 362 00:17:25,520 --> 00:17:27,480 You'd be hard-pressed to find a business 363 00:17:27,560 --> 00:17:30,840 that's been in the same family for five generations, 364 00:17:30,920 --> 00:17:34,360 let alone one that's producing something that seems so obscure. 365 00:17:34,440 --> 00:17:39,360 I'll confess, before visiting, I'd never heard of Kitron Liqueur. 366 00:17:39,440 --> 00:17:41,840 But after spending some time here and trying it, 367 00:17:41,920 --> 00:17:44,440 there's now a bottle in my cupboard at home. 368 00:17:44,520 --> 00:17:48,920 Their place of sale and distillery are in the centre of Halki, 369 00:17:49,000 --> 00:17:50,240 within this building. 370 00:17:50,320 --> 00:17:52,160 And there are several adjoining rooms 371 00:17:52,240 --> 00:17:56,760 where you can see some history about this family's production. 372 00:17:56,840 --> 00:17:59,440 And there is an old distillery here as well. 373 00:17:59,520 --> 00:18:02,960 It seems like a museum piece, but it actually isn't. 374 00:18:03,040 --> 00:18:05,560 This is the same piece of equipment 375 00:18:05,640 --> 00:18:08,800 they've been distilling with for over a century. 376 00:18:08,880 --> 00:18:10,000 And today, they're pulling out 377 00:18:10,080 --> 00:18:13,920 between 10,000 and 15,000 bottles a year. 378 00:18:14,000 --> 00:18:15,640 Copper still working. 379 00:18:15,720 --> 00:18:18,520 Anyway, I think it's time to taste it. 380 00:18:18,600 --> 00:18:20,120 So for me, this is the important moment. 381 00:18:20,200 --> 00:18:22,440 I've never tried Kitron before. 382 00:18:22,520 --> 00:18:25,320 I've been to Naxos like five times and I've never tried it, 383 00:18:25,400 --> 00:18:26,640 so, I'm gonna try it. 384 00:18:26,720 --> 00:18:29,080 Katerina is the fifth generation, 385 00:18:29,160 --> 00:18:31,440 so, I'm lucky to be here with her. 386 00:18:31,520 --> 00:18:32,920 She can tell me all about it. 387 00:18:33,000 --> 00:18:34,920 Now, what have we got first, Katerina? 388 00:18:35,000 --> 00:18:37,360 This is the sweetest and the lightest Kitron. 389 00:18:37,440 --> 00:18:39,960 OK, let's try that before we try the other two. 390 00:18:44,280 --> 00:18:45,800 Mmm, 391 00:18:45,880 --> 00:18:49,200 the lemony taste is not as strong as I thought it would be, 392 00:18:49,280 --> 00:18:51,920 but there's a bit of a tang to it, and it's nice, very light. 393 00:18:53,960 --> 00:18:55,280 What would you be eating or drinking 394 00:18:55,360 --> 00:18:56,520 or what would you be doing with this? 395 00:18:56,600 --> 00:18:57,560 It's just on its own. 396 00:18:57,640 --> 00:19:00,240 It's nice to drink it very cold or on ice... 397 00:19:00,320 --> 00:19:01,360 Yep. 398 00:19:01,440 --> 00:19:03,520 ..after the meal as a digestive. 399 00:19:03,600 --> 00:19:05,120 OK, and what have we got next? 400 00:19:05,200 --> 00:19:06,360 This is the medium one. 401 00:19:06,440 --> 00:19:07,520 This is a medium. OK. 402 00:19:07,600 --> 00:19:08,640 Let's try the medium. 403 00:19:12,400 --> 00:19:17,000 Still with a bit of sweetness, still very light, but not too sweet. 404 00:19:17,080 --> 00:19:18,440 Very similar. 405 00:19:18,520 --> 00:19:19,800 And what's last? 406 00:19:19,880 --> 00:19:22,560 And the last one is the strongest and the driest. 407 00:19:22,640 --> 00:19:24,000 The strongest and the driest. 408 00:19:24,080 --> 00:19:25,720 36% of alcohol. 409 00:19:25,800 --> 00:19:27,280 How much? 36. 410 00:19:27,360 --> 00:19:28,640 36. Is that legal? 411 00:19:28,720 --> 00:19:30,240 I don't know if that's legal. 36%. 412 00:19:30,320 --> 00:19:31,360 Wow. 413 00:19:34,720 --> 00:19:36,680 I can see that there's 36% alcohol in this. 414 00:19:36,760 --> 00:19:38,120 Yeah. 415 00:19:38,200 --> 00:19:39,320 Maybe not necessarily for me, 416 00:19:39,400 --> 00:19:41,840 but many people I know would love this. 417 00:19:41,920 --> 00:19:43,760 My preference is this one. 418 00:19:43,840 --> 00:19:46,160 You like the sweet one. 419 00:19:46,240 --> 00:19:48,760 It's very nice. 420 00:19:48,840 --> 00:19:51,360 This is a taste I've never had before. 421 00:19:51,440 --> 00:19:52,960 Definitely. 422 00:19:53,040 --> 00:19:54,080 It's definitely original. 423 00:19:54,160 --> 00:19:55,560 Nowhere else in the world will you see this. 424 00:19:55,640 --> 00:19:57,080 Nowhere else in Greece. Only in Naxos. 425 00:19:57,160 --> 00:19:58,840 Only on Naxos, yes. Fantastic. 426 00:20:01,560 --> 00:20:03,080 It's very nice. 427 00:20:03,160 --> 00:20:05,840 This is the Naxian liqueur, the green one. 428 00:20:05,920 --> 00:20:07,760 This is the one that is the Naxian liqueur. 429 00:20:07,840 --> 00:20:09,080 This is the one that is... 430 00:20:09,160 --> 00:20:11,120 (LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER) 431 00:20:13,200 --> 00:20:14,200 Yes. 432 00:20:17,480 --> 00:20:18,480 Very nice. 433 00:20:19,640 --> 00:20:22,400 What started as an idea grew into a small business 434 00:20:22,480 --> 00:20:26,480 that served the local community and eventually, the island of Naxos. 435 00:20:26,560 --> 00:20:27,600 From humble beginnings, 436 00:20:27,680 --> 00:20:28,800 it flourished to a point 437 00:20:28,880 --> 00:20:31,560 where they were sending cartons across the Mediterranean 438 00:20:31,640 --> 00:20:33,080 and eventually the world, 439 00:20:33,160 --> 00:20:35,160 and not just to Greeks living abroad. 440 00:20:35,240 --> 00:20:38,360 Five generations on and their tradition continues. 441 00:20:38,440 --> 00:20:40,520 The methods employed in the distillation process 442 00:20:40,600 --> 00:20:41,760 have changed little. 443 00:20:41,840 --> 00:20:44,280 It's more a case of them having up scaled everything 444 00:20:44,360 --> 00:20:45,560 to keep up with demand. 445 00:20:48,120 --> 00:20:50,720 Behind me is the town of Halki. 446 00:20:50,800 --> 00:20:56,560 We are in the region of Tragea, and it's the centre of Naxos. 447 00:20:58,000 --> 00:20:59,680 It's a very special area 448 00:20:59,760 --> 00:21:04,760 because the pirates never bothered to come this far inland. 449 00:21:04,840 --> 00:21:06,080 As a result, 450 00:21:06,160 --> 00:21:09,320 much of the religious architecture hasn't been desecrated. 451 00:21:09,400 --> 00:21:11,200 And I wanna read to you a quote 452 00:21:11,280 --> 00:21:13,840 from probably one of the best art historians 453 00:21:13,920 --> 00:21:17,680 in all of the Aegean, Nigel McGilchrist, who says, 454 00:21:17,760 --> 00:21:21,480 "Naxos has a greater concentration and chronological spread 455 00:21:21,560 --> 00:21:25,680 "of medieval and Byzantine churches than any other Greek island, 456 00:21:25,760 --> 00:21:27,520 "including Crete and Kythera." 457 00:21:27,600 --> 00:21:30,320 And what's wonderful is that there are over 30 churches 458 00:21:30,400 --> 00:21:32,640 in this one region that you can come to. 459 00:21:32,720 --> 00:21:36,200 If you wanna come on a artistic, icon, 460 00:21:36,280 --> 00:21:39,840 medieval Byzantine Church pilgrimage, 461 00:21:39,920 --> 00:21:41,160 here's the place to start. 462 00:21:41,240 --> 00:21:42,320 And Agios Georgios 463 00:21:42,400 --> 00:21:44,720 is an 11th century church and a perfect example 464 00:21:44,800 --> 00:21:45,920 as your first place to go. 465 00:21:46,000 --> 00:21:47,360 And we're only gonna see the one church. 466 00:22:00,280 --> 00:22:03,440 Now, I don't wanna talk specifically about this church, 467 00:22:03,520 --> 00:22:07,680 rather the churches in the region and give you a couple of hints. 468 00:22:07,760 --> 00:22:10,320 One, they're rural churches, 469 00:22:10,400 --> 00:22:13,000 so, you can have a real adventure and experience 470 00:22:13,080 --> 00:22:16,200 just on the hikes and the walks and the climbs to get to them. 471 00:22:16,280 --> 00:22:19,160 Secondly, bring a torch with you because these churches 472 00:22:19,240 --> 00:22:23,000 are fairly dark and you really need to bring out the colours 473 00:22:23,080 --> 00:22:25,000 in these beautiful murals. 474 00:22:25,080 --> 00:22:29,000 The icons are yellows, reds, browns. 475 00:22:29,080 --> 00:22:30,080 They're local pigments. 476 00:22:30,160 --> 00:22:31,120 But some of the pigments, 477 00:22:31,200 --> 00:22:32,360 some of the blues are coming from 478 00:22:32,440 --> 00:22:36,720 as far as Afghanistan, Hungary, and Spain. 479 00:22:36,800 --> 00:22:38,960 And they're painted in a fresco form, 480 00:22:39,040 --> 00:22:42,840 but there's also some dry painting done as well. 481 00:22:42,920 --> 00:22:46,040 And when you look at them, they are just a wonder and a joy. 482 00:22:46,120 --> 00:22:48,160 They all tell a story. 483 00:22:48,240 --> 00:22:49,960 They're absolutely magnificent. 484 00:22:55,080 --> 00:22:57,600 There are very few islands throughout the Aegean 485 00:22:57,680 --> 00:22:59,440 where, in such a small area, 486 00:22:59,520 --> 00:23:01,640 you can find this many churches 487 00:23:01,720 --> 00:23:05,560 adorned with so much iconic Byzantine art. 488 00:23:05,640 --> 00:23:07,760 What's particularly incredible is that, 489 00:23:07,840 --> 00:23:10,920 despite being almost 1,000 years old, 490 00:23:11,000 --> 00:23:13,240 these frescoes are still so vivid, 491 00:23:13,320 --> 00:23:16,240 retaining a lot of their detail and colour. 492 00:23:16,320 --> 00:23:19,200 That said, I can only imagine walking through these spaces 493 00:23:19,280 --> 00:23:20,840 when the works were complete 494 00:23:20,920 --> 00:23:23,800 and the artworks in their original vibrance. 495 00:23:23,880 --> 00:23:26,320 It would've been a powerful sight for worshipers. 496 00:23:35,200 --> 00:23:38,160 (THEME MUSIC) 497 00:23:47,920 --> 00:23:50,280 We're all familiar with the famous Swiss cheese 498 00:23:50,360 --> 00:23:51,960 known as Gruyere. 499 00:23:52,040 --> 00:23:53,400 Even if you haven't tried it, 500 00:23:53,480 --> 00:23:55,760 no doubt you'd have at least heard of it. 501 00:23:55,840 --> 00:23:59,200 Well, a similar cheese made in Greece is known as Graviera. 502 00:23:59,280 --> 00:24:02,560 It's the second most popular cheese in the country after Feta. 503 00:24:02,640 --> 00:24:04,320 And Naxos is known for it. 504 00:24:04,400 --> 00:24:06,920 However, Graviera is a speciality that has come about 505 00:24:07,000 --> 00:24:08,640 thanks to the size of Naxos, 506 00:24:08,720 --> 00:24:12,440 and subsequently, the livestock they're able to farm. 507 00:24:12,520 --> 00:24:14,120 If you've visited a Greek island, 508 00:24:14,200 --> 00:24:17,240 you'll know that the goats often outnumber the humans. 509 00:24:17,320 --> 00:24:18,960 But here, they have cows, 510 00:24:19,040 --> 00:24:21,240 which means different types of dairy projects 511 00:24:21,320 --> 00:24:22,360 can be made. 512 00:24:22,440 --> 00:24:23,520 To learn more about it, 513 00:24:23,600 --> 00:24:25,120 I met with Professor Ioannis 514 00:24:25,200 --> 00:24:27,800 at the Union of Agricultural Cooperatives. 515 00:24:27,880 --> 00:24:30,560 He's not the most animated guy, but trust me, 516 00:24:30,640 --> 00:24:33,080 he's very passionate about the subject. 517 00:24:33,160 --> 00:24:35,480 Professor, I understand that this corporation 518 00:24:35,560 --> 00:24:40,800 is the biggest provider of hard cheese in all of Greece. 519 00:24:40,880 --> 00:24:41,920 Does that make Naxos 520 00:24:42,000 --> 00:24:45,200 the biggest provider of cheese in Greece? 521 00:24:45,280 --> 00:24:47,280 It is the biggest provider 522 00:24:47,360 --> 00:24:48,760 of Graviera cheese. 523 00:24:48,840 --> 00:24:49,920 Graviera cheese. Yes. 524 00:24:50,000 --> 00:24:51,000 Right. 525 00:24:51,080 --> 00:24:53,560 And why is that so? 526 00:24:53,640 --> 00:24:56,560 Why is it Naxos and nowhere else? 527 00:24:56,640 --> 00:24:58,920 Well, you have to take into account 528 00:24:59,000 --> 00:25:03,400 that Naxos is a unique island in Greece. 529 00:25:03,480 --> 00:25:05,520 The uniqueness of the island, 530 00:25:05,600 --> 00:25:08,080 therefore, lies mainly in the fact 531 00:25:08,160 --> 00:25:10,440 that it's, first of all, big, very big. 532 00:25:10,520 --> 00:25:12,160 The other uniqueness is that 533 00:25:12,240 --> 00:25:15,400 it does not have only small ruminants. 534 00:25:15,480 --> 00:25:17,840 In other words, sheep and goat. 535 00:25:17,920 --> 00:25:20,040 It has also cows. 536 00:25:20,120 --> 00:25:22,480 People here, they realise that cows, 537 00:25:22,560 --> 00:25:25,560 they are giving them a unique advantage. 538 00:25:25,640 --> 00:25:30,160 Small ruminants provide milk, seasonal milk. 539 00:25:30,240 --> 00:25:33,920 Therefore, they give them milk four, five, six months, 540 00:25:34,000 --> 00:25:35,800 the most per year. 541 00:25:35,880 --> 00:25:40,440 On the other hand, cows provide them with milk 12 months a year. 542 00:25:40,520 --> 00:25:41,720 And therefore, 543 00:25:41,800 --> 00:25:45,880 this is something that was very helpful 544 00:25:45,960 --> 00:25:51,040 in what I will call self-reliability 545 00:25:51,120 --> 00:25:53,280 all over the year. 546 00:25:53,360 --> 00:25:55,760 The union of agricultural cooperatives 547 00:25:55,840 --> 00:25:58,200 brings together the farmers of Naxos, 548 00:25:58,280 --> 00:26:01,640 enabling them to produce greater quantities of dairy products 549 00:26:01,720 --> 00:26:02,920 of a better quality, 550 00:26:03,000 --> 00:26:05,560 in a far more efficient manner than they could 551 00:26:05,640 --> 00:26:08,360 were they to independently manufacture it. 552 00:26:08,440 --> 00:26:11,080 It's been in operation for almost 100 years 553 00:26:11,160 --> 00:26:13,760 and has seen the expansion of this local industry 554 00:26:13,840 --> 00:26:16,000 while maintaining the traditions of the island. 555 00:26:16,080 --> 00:26:18,720 The economic impact has been huge, 556 00:26:18,800 --> 00:26:20,760 and in turn has helped put Naxos on the map 557 00:26:20,840 --> 00:26:22,640 as a culinary destination. 558 00:26:22,720 --> 00:26:24,040 Amongst other cheeses, 559 00:26:24,120 --> 00:26:28,440 they output around 1,200 tonnes of Graviera a year. 560 00:26:28,520 --> 00:26:30,680 Professor, you've worked all over the world, 561 00:26:30,760 --> 00:26:33,240 Canada, US, everywhere. 562 00:26:34,640 --> 00:26:36,840 How does the Greek cheese 563 00:26:36,920 --> 00:26:39,360 compare to other cheeses around the world? 564 00:26:39,440 --> 00:26:42,880 Well, the peculiarity 565 00:26:42,960 --> 00:26:46,720 of the Greek cheese is... 566 00:26:46,800 --> 00:26:49,120 Overall, Greek cheese is the fact 567 00:26:49,200 --> 00:26:52,760 that most of the cheese made in Greece 568 00:26:52,840 --> 00:26:55,640 is made from sheep and goat milk. 569 00:26:57,640 --> 00:27:02,280 Therefore, this is what is very different. 570 00:27:02,360 --> 00:27:04,080 The uniqueness, as I told you however, 571 00:27:04,160 --> 00:27:05,640 about Graviera Naxos... 572 00:27:05,720 --> 00:27:09,680 It is that it's not only small ruminants, 573 00:27:09,760 --> 00:27:13,000 but it's also cows' milk. 574 00:27:13,080 --> 00:27:14,440 Graviera Naxou 575 00:27:14,520 --> 00:27:17,440 is considered a flagship product of the island, 576 00:27:17,520 --> 00:27:20,680 with potatoes being the other agricultural mainstay. 577 00:27:20,760 --> 00:27:24,720 To make a kilo of this cheese, it takes about 11 litres of milk. 578 00:27:24,800 --> 00:27:25,760 Once in the moulds, 579 00:27:25,840 --> 00:27:28,160 the wheels of cheese eventually find their way 580 00:27:28,240 --> 00:27:30,040 onto these wooden shelves, 581 00:27:30,120 --> 00:27:32,400 where they sit for at least 72 days 582 00:27:32,480 --> 00:27:34,600 before going through a couple of other processes 583 00:27:34,680 --> 00:27:38,440 and finally being aged for 90 days or more in the cooling rooms. 584 00:27:38,520 --> 00:27:42,520 So, from farm to fork, you're looking at about six months. 585 00:27:42,600 --> 00:27:44,960 The final part of my cheese education 586 00:27:45,040 --> 00:27:46,360 was to try the stuff. 587 00:27:46,440 --> 00:27:50,800 For that, I went to Koufopoulos Traditional Dairy in Chora Naxos. 588 00:27:50,880 --> 00:27:52,160 It's run by three sisters 589 00:27:52,240 --> 00:27:54,680 who are fourth generation cheese makers. 590 00:27:54,760 --> 00:27:57,320 Like the Kitron distillery I visited earlier, 591 00:27:57,400 --> 00:27:59,560 this is a family owned and operated business 592 00:27:59,640 --> 00:28:01,920 that has seen valuable skills passed down 593 00:28:02,000 --> 00:28:03,600 from grandparents to parents, 594 00:28:03,680 --> 00:28:06,320 and then onto their children and grandchildren. 595 00:28:06,400 --> 00:28:07,800 Look at all this cheese. 596 00:28:07,880 --> 00:28:10,040 Had Naxos embraced too much automation 597 00:28:10,120 --> 00:28:11,720 of their cheese manufacture, 598 00:28:11,800 --> 00:28:14,960 important traditions would've been lost. 599 00:28:15,040 --> 00:28:16,000 There's a lot of cheeses there, 600 00:28:16,080 --> 00:28:17,440 but I just wanna try the Naxian ones, 601 00:28:17,520 --> 00:28:19,600 the ones that Naxos is famous for. 602 00:28:19,680 --> 00:28:20,640 Which one should we start? OK. 603 00:28:20,720 --> 00:28:21,720 So, we should start 604 00:28:21,800 --> 00:28:22,840 from the Graviera one. 605 00:28:22,920 --> 00:28:24,080 From the Graviera. It's famous. 606 00:28:24,160 --> 00:28:26,000 I mean, it's the biggest producer of Graviera, isn't it? 607 00:28:26,080 --> 00:28:28,160 Yeah, one of the biggest. 608 00:28:28,240 --> 00:28:30,880 Now, why is the Graviera different? 609 00:28:30,960 --> 00:28:32,560 What's different about the Graviera? 610 00:28:32,640 --> 00:28:34,000 It's one of the most famous of Bries 611 00:28:34,080 --> 00:28:35,480 because it's the way we produce it. 612 00:28:35,560 --> 00:28:38,040 I mean, the climate, what the animals eat, 613 00:28:38,120 --> 00:28:39,760 so, the milk that they produce. 614 00:28:39,840 --> 00:28:42,320 So, that's why it's mild, you know, like a nutty after-taste. 615 00:28:42,400 --> 00:28:43,360 Oh, beautiful taste. 616 00:28:43,440 --> 00:28:44,520 Beautiful taste. Yeah. 617 00:28:44,600 --> 00:28:46,320 And what else have we got here? 618 00:28:46,400 --> 00:28:48,880 Now, next, we have the Arseniko. 619 00:28:48,960 --> 00:28:51,720 It's the very traditional, very old cheese of Naxos. 620 00:28:51,800 --> 00:28:52,800 Right. 621 00:28:52,880 --> 00:28:54,120 So here, you're gonna taste the mild one. 622 00:28:54,200 --> 00:28:55,200 Right. 623 00:28:55,280 --> 00:28:56,720 But we also have the old version, like, 624 00:28:56,800 --> 00:28:58,120 four years old, so very sharp. 625 00:28:58,200 --> 00:28:59,760 And this is cow's milk as well? 626 00:28:59,840 --> 00:29:01,720 It's goat and sheep mostly. 627 00:29:01,800 --> 00:29:02,840 And it's called Arseniko 628 00:29:02,920 --> 00:29:04,520 because when it becomes very old, 629 00:29:04,600 --> 00:29:06,960 it's very strong at the taste like the male. 630 00:29:07,040 --> 00:29:08,600 So, Arseniko is actually male. 631 00:29:08,680 --> 00:29:10,200 Ah, Arseniko is Greek for male. 632 00:29:10,280 --> 00:29:11,320 Yeah. OK. 633 00:29:11,400 --> 00:29:12,360 It's rather hard... 634 00:29:12,440 --> 00:29:14,000 Mmm, the old one's very nice. Yeah. 635 00:29:14,080 --> 00:29:16,040 That would be good for spaghetti, wouldn't it? 636 00:29:16,120 --> 00:29:18,200 Yeah, it's like parmigiano actually a little bit. 637 00:29:18,280 --> 00:29:19,920 You know? The texture? 638 00:29:20,000 --> 00:29:22,920 Mmm, very nice. 639 00:29:23,000 --> 00:29:28,560 So, if there's a male cheese, Arseniko, is there a female cheese? 640 00:29:28,640 --> 00:29:29,600 Yeah. Right. 641 00:29:29,680 --> 00:29:30,680 Yeah, there is. 642 00:29:30,760 --> 00:29:32,280 So, the female's this one. 643 00:29:32,360 --> 00:29:34,360 It's called female because it has the exact 644 00:29:34,440 --> 00:29:36,640 opposite characteristics of the male. 645 00:29:36,720 --> 00:29:37,680 It's not hard, it's soft. 646 00:29:37,760 --> 00:29:40,320 It's soft, it's white, it's sweet to taste. 647 00:29:40,400 --> 00:29:41,680 It's supple. 648 00:29:41,760 --> 00:29:44,480 And it was actually produced after the male, after the Arseniko. 649 00:29:44,560 --> 00:29:46,360 So, that was also played a role I think. 650 00:29:46,440 --> 00:29:47,760 Oh, OK. So... Yeah. 651 00:29:47,840 --> 00:29:49,600 So, yeah, that one. That's this one here. 652 00:29:49,680 --> 00:29:50,920 I'm gonna grab one from the bottom. Ooh. 653 00:29:51,000 --> 00:29:52,040 It's very soft. 654 00:29:54,240 --> 00:29:55,640 This is like mazithra, right? 655 00:29:55,720 --> 00:29:57,960 Yeah, but we call it female. 656 00:29:58,040 --> 00:29:59,040 Right. OK. 657 00:29:59,120 --> 00:30:00,160 Yeah. Oh, it's good. 658 00:30:00,240 --> 00:30:02,240 But listen, it's all too good. 659 00:30:02,320 --> 00:30:03,320 I've got to stop, 660 00:30:03,400 --> 00:30:05,160 otherwise I'm gonna eat everything that's there. 661 00:30:05,240 --> 00:30:06,360 Yeah. Everything that's there. 662 00:30:06,440 --> 00:30:07,720 I got to... I got to stop. OK. 663 00:30:07,800 --> 00:30:09,280 Yeah, you got to stop. Thank you, Irene. 664 00:30:09,360 --> 00:30:10,360 I've got to stop. 665 00:30:10,440 --> 00:30:11,440 Thank you a lot. 666 00:30:11,520 --> 00:30:12,600 No worries. 667 00:30:14,320 --> 00:30:17,400 Greek hospitality didn't allow me to get off that easily. 668 00:30:17,480 --> 00:30:20,040 Irene insisted I'd try the taste sensations 669 00:30:20,120 --> 00:30:21,760 of the Naxian condiments 670 00:30:21,840 --> 00:30:25,080 that are made specifically to go with their cheeses. 671 00:30:25,160 --> 00:30:28,960 The flavour combinations were so delicious, I couldn't stop. 672 00:30:29,040 --> 00:30:31,040 I've never had that in my life. 673 00:30:33,560 --> 00:30:34,640 Yeah, that's the reaction! 674 00:30:34,720 --> 00:30:36,480 They're all working back there. 675 00:30:36,560 --> 00:30:37,520 They're all working back there. 676 00:30:37,600 --> 00:30:40,080 They're all saying, "Hey, give me more", 677 00:30:40,160 --> 00:30:41,800 from every side of my mouth. 678 00:30:41,880 --> 00:30:43,840 The enzymes, everything's been... That's beautiful. 679 00:30:43,920 --> 00:30:45,880 (INSTRUMENTAL MUSIC) 680 00:30:51,240 --> 00:30:54,200 (THEME MUSIC) 681 00:31:01,360 --> 00:31:04,440 An early morning saw me once again heading for the hills. 682 00:31:04,520 --> 00:31:07,920 Only this time, it wasn't in search of food or an old church, 683 00:31:08,000 --> 00:31:09,960 it was to meet with Tristan Carter, 684 00:31:10,040 --> 00:31:11,040 an archaeologist 685 00:31:11,120 --> 00:31:12,120 who's been working on this dig 686 00:31:12,200 --> 00:31:13,640 for the last eight years 687 00:31:13,720 --> 00:31:16,920 and will likely be here for at least another five. 688 00:31:17,000 --> 00:31:18,120 There's always more to find, 689 00:31:18,200 --> 00:31:19,840 but 2019, 690 00:31:19,920 --> 00:31:20,920 we had the big discovery 691 00:31:21,000 --> 00:31:23,200 that took us in a new direction, 692 00:31:23,280 --> 00:31:25,440 radically different kind of archaeology. 693 00:31:25,520 --> 00:31:26,720 We'll rewrite what we know 694 00:31:26,800 --> 00:31:29,320 about Naxos and the Cyclades more generally 695 00:31:29,400 --> 00:31:31,040 in a completely different vein 696 00:31:31,120 --> 00:31:33,080 to what we were doing in the first eight years. 697 00:31:33,160 --> 00:31:34,160 Right. 698 00:31:35,760 --> 00:31:38,120 So, Tristan, what are we looking at now? 699 00:31:38,200 --> 00:31:40,360 Where I'm bringing you now is the deepest 700 00:31:40,440 --> 00:31:44,200 of our trenches back into the ice age. 701 00:31:44,280 --> 00:31:46,080 5m deep. 702 00:31:46,160 --> 00:31:48,200 And how long have you been digging this for? 703 00:31:48,280 --> 00:31:49,880 By hand, since 2015. 704 00:31:49,960 --> 00:31:51,320 So, for the last, 705 00:31:51,400 --> 00:31:54,080 what, seven years you've been digging this hole. 706 00:31:54,160 --> 00:31:55,960 And you're going all the way to the ice age. 707 00:31:56,040 --> 00:31:57,760 Well, we pretty much started in the ice age. 708 00:31:57,840 --> 00:31:59,720 I mean, we're standing here on the modern soil, 709 00:31:59,800 --> 00:32:02,040 but within a few centimetres 710 00:32:02,120 --> 00:32:04,880 you are back into like ice age deposits, you know, 711 00:32:04,960 --> 00:32:06,640 12,000-years-old, 712 00:32:06,720 --> 00:32:09,320 and then all the way down to about 200,000 at the bottom, 713 00:32:09,400 --> 00:32:10,400 and it's still going. 714 00:32:10,480 --> 00:32:13,600 And what are you finding at 200,000 years? 715 00:32:13,680 --> 00:32:16,600 We're finding stone tools throughout the sequence. 716 00:32:16,680 --> 00:32:18,400 I mean, the whole point of them being here 717 00:32:18,480 --> 00:32:20,800 is to take the local stone, 718 00:32:20,880 --> 00:32:23,200 work it into everyday usable tools 719 00:32:23,280 --> 00:32:25,400 for hunting, craft working, et cetera. 720 00:32:25,480 --> 00:32:26,640 You have to remember, this is a period 721 00:32:26,720 --> 00:32:27,720 before the invention of metal, 722 00:32:27,800 --> 00:32:29,160 a long time before the invention of metal. 723 00:32:29,240 --> 00:32:30,680 So, this is what they're doing here. 724 00:32:30,760 --> 00:32:32,080 And throughout this sequence, 725 00:32:32,160 --> 00:32:34,960 we find the tools and the manufacturing debris 726 00:32:35,040 --> 00:32:36,960 that goes with it all the way to the bottom. 727 00:32:37,040 --> 00:32:39,240 What is the significance of finding? 728 00:32:39,320 --> 00:32:41,680 You know, you keep digging, 200,000 year old tools, 729 00:32:41,760 --> 00:32:45,880 what does that really mean to the common person like me? 730 00:32:45,960 --> 00:32:46,960 It depends on... 731 00:32:47,040 --> 00:32:49,840 Well, to you, as somebody from Greece, 732 00:32:49,920 --> 00:32:52,240 I can tell you that this is the oldest site 733 00:32:52,320 --> 00:32:55,240 in the Cyclades by tens of thousands of years. 734 00:32:55,320 --> 00:32:57,400 Now, that's neat at the local level. 735 00:32:57,480 --> 00:32:59,280 There's a certain gee whiz to that. 736 00:32:59,360 --> 00:33:02,320 But the bigger picture is, until we started working here, 737 00:33:02,400 --> 00:33:05,880 nobody thought that early humans could or should be here. 738 00:33:05,960 --> 00:33:09,160 The idea was that these were islands. 739 00:33:09,240 --> 00:33:10,240 You could only get here 740 00:33:10,320 --> 00:33:12,320 if you had the skilled technology to make a boat, 741 00:33:12,400 --> 00:33:14,800 which we associate with modern humans. 742 00:33:14,880 --> 00:33:15,840 And the idea was that, 743 00:33:15,920 --> 00:33:17,360 when ancient humans 744 00:33:17,440 --> 00:33:20,240 moved from Africa through Asia into Europe, 745 00:33:20,320 --> 00:33:23,400 the only way they could do it was going across the land bridge. 746 00:33:23,480 --> 00:33:27,000 So, that's basically northwest Turkey, Northern Greece. 747 00:33:27,080 --> 00:33:29,160 And continental Greece in the islands 748 00:33:29,240 --> 00:33:32,320 were kind of in irrelevance to the story of early humanity. 749 00:33:32,400 --> 00:33:34,400 So, what we're doing now, in a very modest way, 750 00:33:34,480 --> 00:33:37,840 is rewriting early human history, 751 00:33:37,920 --> 00:33:40,640 the early history of European colonisation, 752 00:33:40,720 --> 00:33:42,400 and showing that perhaps these characters 753 00:33:42,480 --> 00:33:44,520 had greater capabilities than we originally thought. 754 00:33:44,600 --> 00:33:46,240 It's very difficult imagining, 755 00:33:46,320 --> 00:33:48,040 and it's one of the problems we have as archaeologists 756 00:33:48,120 --> 00:33:49,440 representing to the public... 757 00:33:49,520 --> 00:33:50,480 Those... 758 00:33:50,560 --> 00:33:52,320 You know, many people are familiar with the Cyclades 759 00:33:52,400 --> 00:33:54,800 from holidays and shows like your own. 760 00:33:54,880 --> 00:33:56,440 It would've looked so different. 761 00:33:56,520 --> 00:33:57,800 Yeah. Wow. 762 00:33:57,880 --> 00:33:59,520 Well, I wanna keep looking at some of the trenches 763 00:33:59,600 --> 00:34:01,280 that your people are working on, mate. 764 00:34:01,360 --> 00:34:02,480 They start here early in the morning, 765 00:34:02,560 --> 00:34:03,600 they finish late. 766 00:34:03,680 --> 00:34:04,680 Let's go and check them out, hey? 767 00:34:04,760 --> 00:34:06,760 Yeah, they're all boiling their silly heads up top. 768 00:34:06,840 --> 00:34:07,920 OK, let's go up there, mate. 769 00:34:23,800 --> 00:34:26,800 You don't see very many unfit archaeologists, mate, 770 00:34:26,880 --> 00:34:28,360 when you look at this. 771 00:34:28,440 --> 00:34:33,160 Very true, the word here is like it gets easier, 772 00:34:33,240 --> 00:34:34,600 but it never gets easy. 773 00:34:36,800 --> 00:34:38,880 You do lots of exercises before you come out here 774 00:34:38,960 --> 00:34:40,680 and then you realise they're all the wrong ones. 775 00:34:40,760 --> 00:34:43,200 And there's many other muscles in the body you didn't know about. 776 00:34:45,360 --> 00:34:48,520 You don't normally think of archaeology as being hard, 777 00:34:48,600 --> 00:34:49,640 physical work. 778 00:34:49,720 --> 00:34:52,480 Typically, you envisage people with small brushes 779 00:34:52,560 --> 00:34:54,080 sitting in dusty holes, 780 00:34:54,160 --> 00:34:57,600 delicately cleaning dirt from bones or ancient statues. 781 00:34:57,680 --> 00:35:00,680 But for a lot of them, it's actually quite demanding. 782 00:35:00,760 --> 00:35:02,280 Take this dig, for example. 783 00:35:02,360 --> 00:35:04,680 Just getting to the site is tough enough, 784 00:35:04,760 --> 00:35:07,880 let alone the countless hours spent in the baking sun, 785 00:35:07,960 --> 00:35:11,920 shovelling rocks and soil, then going through it all by hand. 786 00:35:12,000 --> 00:35:15,920 But when every bucket load of dirt could reveal an ancient artefact, 787 00:35:16,000 --> 00:35:17,880 it's easy to keep motivated. 788 00:35:17,960 --> 00:35:20,240 Also, on the plus side, it keeps them fit. 789 00:35:20,320 --> 00:35:23,440 So, what's this little roped off area here 790 00:35:23,520 --> 00:35:25,680 that looks like it's been cleaned out? 791 00:35:25,760 --> 00:35:27,680 This is one of our archaeological trenches. 792 00:35:27,760 --> 00:35:30,200 We've decided we wanna see what's going on here. 793 00:35:30,280 --> 00:35:31,600 There was some weird 794 00:35:31,680 --> 00:35:34,120 non-local stones sticking up out of the ground. 795 00:35:34,200 --> 00:35:36,160 The only way we're gonna figure out what was happening in this 796 00:35:36,240 --> 00:35:37,880 is to clean it up, is to excavate. 797 00:35:37,960 --> 00:35:39,280 So, we think it's some kind of bench 798 00:35:39,360 --> 00:35:41,760 where the worshipers would've gathered 799 00:35:41,840 --> 00:35:43,720 and maybe put offerings here. 800 00:35:43,800 --> 00:35:45,000 And the only way we're gonna figure out 801 00:35:45,080 --> 00:35:46,880 exactly what they're doing is by digging it. 802 00:35:46,960 --> 00:35:47,920 So, you've dug out the stuff. 803 00:35:48,000 --> 00:35:49,480 Where's all that stuff gone now? 804 00:35:49,560 --> 00:35:52,840 So, you dig out the soil, you put it in a bucket, 805 00:35:52,920 --> 00:35:54,440 and you take it over to there, 806 00:35:54,520 --> 00:35:56,120 where we sift through it 807 00:35:56,200 --> 00:35:58,600 and we carefully pick out all of the artefacts. 808 00:35:58,680 --> 00:36:00,360 Can we head over there? Absolutely. 809 00:36:00,440 --> 00:36:01,920 It's all done by hand. 810 00:36:02,000 --> 00:36:03,360 Oh, yeah. 811 00:36:03,440 --> 00:36:05,680 No excavators here. 812 00:36:05,760 --> 00:36:06,800 All manual. 813 00:36:08,800 --> 00:36:10,880 So, what's going on here, Tristan? 814 00:36:10,960 --> 00:36:12,320 So, they bring the earth 815 00:36:12,400 --> 00:36:14,040 that they've dug up out of the trench. 816 00:36:14,120 --> 00:36:16,000 They dump it into the screen 817 00:36:16,080 --> 00:36:19,520 and they sift it to get rid of all the dirt to see what's left. 818 00:36:19,600 --> 00:36:21,560 Now, a lot of this is just bits of stone, 819 00:36:21,640 --> 00:36:23,800 but amongst this are all the archaeological artefacts 820 00:36:23,880 --> 00:36:25,800 that are gonna tell us the story of what was happening here. 821 00:36:25,880 --> 00:36:28,240 And do we have any archaeological artefacts there? 822 00:36:28,320 --> 00:36:29,920 We have some pottery that's... 823 00:36:30,000 --> 00:36:31,720 Oh, wow. 824 00:36:31,800 --> 00:36:34,280 It's all a bit scrappy on the face of it, 825 00:36:34,360 --> 00:36:36,360 but these are fragments of the little cups 826 00:36:36,440 --> 00:36:38,440 that the worshipers were drinking out of, 827 00:36:38,520 --> 00:36:39,600 that they brought up to the hill, 828 00:36:39,680 --> 00:36:41,920 and they left here dedicated to the gods and the goddesses. 829 00:36:42,000 --> 00:36:43,000 Wow. 830 00:36:43,080 --> 00:36:44,920 This is like sifting for gold, isn't it? 831 00:36:45,000 --> 00:36:46,800 It's the same thing, but it's archaeological artefacts 832 00:36:46,880 --> 00:36:48,160 that nobody else really cares about. 833 00:36:48,240 --> 00:36:49,280 We do. 834 00:36:49,360 --> 00:36:50,440 We do. We do. 835 00:36:53,080 --> 00:36:57,040 To a certain extent, archaeology isn't an exact science. 836 00:36:57,120 --> 00:37:00,040 It's a process of putting together a jigsaw puzzle 837 00:37:00,120 --> 00:37:03,040 where you never really know what the final picture looks like. 838 00:37:03,120 --> 00:37:04,240 There's a certain amount 839 00:37:04,320 --> 00:37:06,880 of calculated guessing and theorising, 840 00:37:06,960 --> 00:37:09,960 which often involves a little bit of creativity. 841 00:37:10,040 --> 00:37:12,040 So, what Tristan and his team are penning 842 00:37:12,120 --> 00:37:15,320 into the annals of time right now may well be rewritten 843 00:37:15,400 --> 00:37:17,840 by future generations of archaeologists. 844 00:37:17,920 --> 00:37:19,000 But in the meantime, 845 00:37:19,080 --> 00:37:21,320 the work they're doing is not only therapeutic 846 00:37:21,400 --> 00:37:23,720 and at times highly rewarding, 847 00:37:23,800 --> 00:37:26,720 but their office is also pretty spectacular too, 848 00:37:26,800 --> 00:37:29,840 when they get to spend their days enjoying a setting like this. 849 00:37:29,920 --> 00:37:31,880 (INSTRUMENTAL MUSIC) 850 00:37:41,280 --> 00:37:44,240 (THEME MUSIC) 851 00:37:53,160 --> 00:37:54,520 My final afternoon in Naxos 852 00:37:54,600 --> 00:37:57,120 was spent enjoying some time at the beach, 853 00:37:57,200 --> 00:38:00,440 along with what seemed like every other tourist in Greece. 854 00:38:00,520 --> 00:38:03,560 The crowds were quite the contrast to the peace of the hills, 855 00:38:03,640 --> 00:38:07,040 but that mix of experiences is what this island is all about. 856 00:38:07,120 --> 00:38:10,320 You can get your fix of history by checking out an ancient ruin 857 00:38:10,400 --> 00:38:11,360 and then indulge 858 00:38:11,440 --> 00:38:13,800 in a little bit of retail therapy in town. 859 00:38:13,880 --> 00:38:17,040 You can have a lively conversation at a bar with a foreign tourist 860 00:38:17,120 --> 00:38:19,280 and then sit idle at a village cafe, 861 00:38:19,360 --> 00:38:22,520 sipping on a coffee and watching the world pass by. 862 00:38:22,600 --> 00:38:24,120 It sounds like a cliche, 863 00:38:24,200 --> 00:38:26,080 but Naxos has something for everybody, 864 00:38:26,160 --> 00:38:27,720 whether you're young or old, 865 00:38:27,800 --> 00:38:29,960 a solo traveller or here with a family. 866 00:38:30,040 --> 00:38:32,680 If you come with an open mind and do your research, 867 00:38:32,760 --> 00:38:34,880 there's plenty to keep you entertained. 868 00:38:34,960 --> 00:38:37,600 And then, when you think you've spent enough time here 869 00:38:37,680 --> 00:38:41,560 and wanna see somewhere new, Naxos is the hub of the Cyclades. 870 00:38:41,640 --> 00:38:44,240 And there is an abundance of regular ferry services 871 00:38:44,320 --> 00:38:48,000 that can whisk you away to 22 other islands. 872 00:38:48,080 --> 00:38:51,120 My travels would see Mia Zoi leaving the main port of Naxos 873 00:38:51,200 --> 00:38:53,080 and heading across the north of the island 874 00:38:53,160 --> 00:38:55,360 before turning Eastwood to Donoussa. 875 00:38:55,440 --> 00:38:56,720 It's a short journey that takes you 876 00:38:56,800 --> 00:38:59,120 from one of the most popular islands in Greece 877 00:38:59,200 --> 00:39:00,600 to one of the lesser known, 878 00:39:00,680 --> 00:39:03,320 but don't let that fact deter you from coming here. 879 00:39:03,400 --> 00:39:08,080 For me, it's the off the beaten path destinations that are the best. 880 00:39:08,160 --> 00:39:09,240 Backing up to the port, 881 00:39:09,320 --> 00:39:12,720 it was abundantly clear that we had left the tourist masses. 882 00:39:12,800 --> 00:39:15,040 This place is so obscure, 883 00:39:15,120 --> 00:39:17,320 there are almost no foreigners to be seen. 884 00:39:17,400 --> 00:39:19,320 There aren't too many big boats coming here, 885 00:39:19,400 --> 00:39:23,120 so, today was a bit of a novelty that brought out most of the locals. 886 00:39:23,200 --> 00:39:26,000 I felt as though we had spoiled the serenity of the port. 887 00:39:26,080 --> 00:39:28,760 So, we quickly docked and went about settling in, 888 00:39:28,840 --> 00:39:30,400 which for me meant taking a stroll 889 00:39:30,480 --> 00:39:32,200 on the beach I could see from the stern, 890 00:39:32,280 --> 00:39:33,720 while captain and Kiriako 891 00:39:33,800 --> 00:39:36,920 had a coffee and a chat at the nearest harbour side cafe. 892 00:39:39,080 --> 00:39:42,840 We're in the port of Stavros here on the island of Donoussa. 893 00:39:42,920 --> 00:39:44,040 Yes, that's what I said. 894 00:39:44,120 --> 00:39:45,080 It's a port. 895 00:39:45,160 --> 00:39:48,600 It is the main port and the beach is right opposite. 896 00:39:48,680 --> 00:39:51,280 And you won't find many beaches in Greece 897 00:39:51,360 --> 00:39:54,520 looking better than this, especially, at a port. 898 00:39:54,600 --> 00:39:56,920 I think, there's some sort of conspiracy going on here 899 00:39:57,000 --> 00:39:59,280 because all I see is Greeks everywhere. 900 00:39:59,360 --> 00:40:02,920 And they call it the lesser Cycladic group of islands, 901 00:40:03,000 --> 00:40:07,520 Schoinoussa, Donoussa, Koufonisia, Keros, all... 902 00:40:07,600 --> 00:40:08,760 and Irakleia, 903 00:40:08,840 --> 00:40:13,400 all in this one group between Patmos, Amorgos, and Naxos. 904 00:40:14,480 --> 00:40:18,640 I can't understand why they call it the lesser group. 905 00:40:18,720 --> 00:40:20,200 It diminishes the value of these islands, 906 00:40:20,280 --> 00:40:23,400 but I think it is a conspiracy because there's only Greeks here. 907 00:40:23,480 --> 00:40:25,040 They've kept it to themselves. 908 00:40:25,120 --> 00:40:26,440 They don't want you to know about it. 909 00:40:27,880 --> 00:40:30,440 The ferry that gets here is tiny, can't fit too many people. 910 00:40:30,520 --> 00:40:31,960 You can't hire a car here. 911 00:40:32,040 --> 00:40:33,920 There's only one taxi here. 912 00:40:34,000 --> 00:40:35,360 People are walking from place to place. 913 00:40:35,440 --> 00:40:38,640 It's just making it too hard for tourists to get here. 914 00:40:38,720 --> 00:40:42,160 And let me tell you what an awesome, awesome island. 915 00:40:42,240 --> 00:40:45,880 This reminds me of the Greece of old, of 40 or 50 years ago. 916 00:40:45,960 --> 00:40:49,120 This is the thing you see in '40s and '50s movies. 917 00:40:49,200 --> 00:40:50,520 You see stuff like this. 918 00:40:50,600 --> 00:40:53,040 And I'm being looked at the moment by these Greeks and they're... 919 00:40:53,120 --> 00:40:56,160 I think, they're a little bit pissed off with me 920 00:40:56,240 --> 00:40:58,080 'cause they wanna keep it to themselves. 921 00:41:01,200 --> 00:41:04,520 The greatest challenge to exploring these smaller islands 922 00:41:04,600 --> 00:41:06,680 is that it can be difficult to get around. 923 00:41:06,760 --> 00:41:09,040 Sometimes, there's no public transport 924 00:41:09,120 --> 00:41:10,520 and you need a bit of local knowledge 925 00:41:10,600 --> 00:41:12,360 to find the best spots. 926 00:41:12,440 --> 00:41:14,760 It might mean hitching a ride on a fishing boat 927 00:41:14,840 --> 00:41:17,080 or taking a hike along a goat track. 928 00:41:17,160 --> 00:41:19,040 Thankfully, we have the tender, 929 00:41:19,120 --> 00:41:22,320 which means we can quickly look around the coastal areas. 930 00:41:22,400 --> 00:41:25,560 In this instance, Yanni was keen to find a safe anchorage 931 00:41:25,640 --> 00:41:28,200 somewhere secluded for an overnight stay. 932 00:41:28,280 --> 00:41:31,000 So, I went along to see what else we could find. 933 00:41:31,080 --> 00:41:33,880 I'd read about hidden coves and little beaches 934 00:41:33,960 --> 00:41:35,200 dotted around the coast, 935 00:41:35,280 --> 00:41:36,240 but it was a cave 936 00:41:36,320 --> 00:41:38,480 that I was most interested in checking out. 937 00:41:38,560 --> 00:41:39,840 So, that's the cave over there, Yanni. 938 00:41:39,920 --> 00:41:41,080 Yes, that's it. 939 00:41:41,160 --> 00:41:43,240 Now, I think it's called Spilia tou Tichou, right? 940 00:41:43,320 --> 00:41:44,320 Spilia tou Tichou. 941 00:41:44,400 --> 00:41:48,680 Spilia tou Ticho, which means cave of the wall. 942 00:41:48,760 --> 00:41:51,320 I think, that's not a bad description, 943 00:41:51,400 --> 00:41:53,320 cave of the wall. 944 00:41:53,400 --> 00:41:54,800 And we're just gonna come around to it 945 00:41:54,880 --> 00:41:57,640 and see how deep that cave is. 946 00:41:57,720 --> 00:42:00,240 This isn't exactly a hidden gem, 947 00:42:00,320 --> 00:42:03,120 but without a watercraft of some description, 948 00:42:03,200 --> 00:42:04,840 you'd never be able to find it. 949 00:42:04,920 --> 00:42:06,280 How many metres do you think that is, Yanni? 950 00:42:06,360 --> 00:42:07,600 How high? 951 00:42:07,680 --> 00:42:08,960 (LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER) 952 00:42:09,040 --> 00:42:10,000 At 20m? 953 00:42:10,080 --> 00:42:11,800 Nai, nai. 954 00:42:11,880 --> 00:42:13,400 20. 955 00:42:13,480 --> 00:42:15,120 That's... 956 00:42:15,200 --> 00:42:19,080 And you can see some stalactites starting to form. 957 00:42:19,160 --> 00:42:22,960 So, this is a relatively new cave when you think about it, 958 00:42:23,040 --> 00:42:24,440 or the stalactite are just getting blown off 959 00:42:24,520 --> 00:42:27,200 by the heavy weather of the Meltemia. 960 00:42:27,280 --> 00:42:28,920 Look at this. It goes further in. 961 00:42:29,000 --> 00:42:30,360 Can we go in there, Yanni? We'll try. 962 00:42:30,440 --> 00:42:32,440 It's still pretty deep here, isn't it? 963 00:42:32,520 --> 00:42:36,040 Boy, look what Mother Nature does. 964 00:42:36,120 --> 00:42:38,120 It is just amazing. 965 00:42:38,200 --> 00:42:39,480 We can go right in here. 966 00:42:41,960 --> 00:42:43,200 I mean, it is huge. 967 00:42:43,280 --> 00:42:44,440 Look at the cavern, Yanni. 968 00:42:44,520 --> 00:42:46,480 It's massive. 969 00:42:46,560 --> 00:42:49,440 This is as a result of the heavy Meltemia, 970 00:42:49,520 --> 00:42:53,960 the big weather that comes through constantly, constantly, constantly. 971 00:42:54,040 --> 00:42:56,960 Day after day, month after month, year after year, 972 00:42:57,040 --> 00:42:59,720 decade after decade, it's just pounding this. 973 00:43:04,160 --> 00:43:05,800 OK, let's go and find the beaches. 974 00:43:05,880 --> 00:43:07,280 Pame. Pame. 975 00:43:09,200 --> 00:43:12,520 And they're pulling out some nets over there, the fishermen. 976 00:43:12,600 --> 00:43:14,000 They add them, add them. 977 00:43:14,080 --> 00:43:15,080 They're putting the nets out. Yeah. 978 00:43:15,160 --> 00:43:16,480 Right. OK. 979 00:43:16,560 --> 00:43:18,120 (LANGUAGE UNKNOWN TO CAPTIONER) 980 00:43:28,160 --> 00:43:29,280 Tiny little boat. 981 00:43:31,560 --> 00:43:35,000 Very seldom they have the opportunity to fish in here. 982 00:43:35,080 --> 00:43:36,720 That's right. That's right. 983 00:43:36,800 --> 00:43:37,800 Yanni's spot on, 984 00:43:37,880 --> 00:43:41,440 because this is very freak flat weather on the north side. 985 00:43:41,520 --> 00:43:42,960 So, they've seen the opportunity. 986 00:43:43,040 --> 00:43:45,280 And bang, they're putting their nets out on the north side. 987 00:43:45,360 --> 00:43:47,000 They'll definitely catch something. 988 00:43:47,080 --> 00:43:48,840 Maybe in the morning, Yanni. Maybe. 989 00:43:48,920 --> 00:43:50,440 Maybe there's something for us in the morning. 990 00:43:52,760 --> 00:43:55,600 The rugged beauty of the coast is never lost on me. 991 00:43:55,680 --> 00:43:58,080 There's a raw and powerful presence to it 992 00:43:58,160 --> 00:44:01,720 that constantly evolves as Mother Nature reshapes things. 993 00:44:01,800 --> 00:44:03,480 There's the shifting light of the day that, 994 00:44:03,560 --> 00:44:06,320 late in the afternoon, softens the hard edges. 995 00:44:06,400 --> 00:44:09,160 On a still afternoon, it has a calming effect. 996 00:44:09,240 --> 00:44:12,480 But when the weather's wild, it becomes dramatic and exciting. 997 00:44:12,560 --> 00:44:14,920 No two days are ever the same. 998 00:44:15,000 --> 00:44:18,120 In the next episode, I'm exploring the island of Donoussa. 999 00:44:18,200 --> 00:44:21,600 It's often missed by travellers who spend their time at the nearby, 1000 00:44:21,680 --> 00:44:23,280 more famed locations. 1001 00:44:23,360 --> 00:44:24,360 But as you'll see, 1002 00:44:24,440 --> 00:44:27,200 it's a fantastic destination in its own right, 1003 00:44:27,280 --> 00:44:28,240 giving tourists 1004 00:44:28,320 --> 00:44:29,320 an authentic experience 1005 00:44:29,400 --> 00:44:31,240 in a quiet corner of Greece. 1006 00:44:31,320 --> 00:44:32,960 From there, I'm off to Koufonisia, 1007 00:44:33,040 --> 00:44:34,040 which also has 1008 00:44:34,120 --> 00:44:35,680 plenty of old world charm. 1009 00:44:35,760 --> 00:44:37,120 However, it's on the cusp 1010 00:44:37,200 --> 00:44:38,760 of becoming one of the must-visit 1011 00:44:38,840 --> 00:44:40,320 islands in the Cyclades. 1012 00:44:40,400 --> 00:44:45,360 (THEME MUSIC) 1013 00:44:52,800 --> 00:44:55,760 Captioned by Ai-Media ai-media.tv 78444

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