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(upbeat music)
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- [Peter] In the first series,
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I began unravelling the story
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of this spectacular and historic nation
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by travelling from Athens
around the Peloponnese
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and up to the Ionian Islands.
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It took in parts of the country
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that lots of tourists know well,
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but in amongst the popular
places were hidden gems
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undiscovered by the holiday masses.
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This series I'm back on board
my beautiful boat Mia Zoi
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and heading to a region of Greece
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I haven't spent much time in.
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The plan is to skip between the islands
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taking in the sights with Northern Aegean.
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It'll be a journey of discovery,
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where I'll be digging deep into the fabric
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that makes Greece so unique,
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and immersing myself in
a centuries old culture,
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unlike anywhere else on Earth.
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In this episode, I continue
my time in Samothrace.
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It's an island frequented by adventure
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and nature lovers alike.
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It was also home to one
of the most well known
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statues in the world,
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which is where I'm headed to first.
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(gentle music)
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A short drive from the
port town of Kamariotissa,
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on the northern coast of Samothrace,
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lies the ancient temple complex
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known as the Sanctuary of the Gods.
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From what was an expansive
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and elaborate series of structures,
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now remains scattered ruins
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with but a few columns left standing.
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However, archaeologists have been studying
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this location for centuries,
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and from the limited remnants,
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they've been able to paint an accurate
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picture of what this
sacred complex looked like.
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Painstaking exploration has
even enabled them to learn
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about the captivating rituals
that were carried out here.
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I was lucky enough to be
escorted around the ruins
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by one of the researchers
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that has been working on the
excavations for over 20 years.
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- This place is magical.
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It is in this wonderful valley,
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and it faces out towards the sea,
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so you have the mountain,
the sea, the valley,
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the wonderful but very dangerous stream
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that bisects right through
the centre of the place,
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and they recognised it as special,
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and a place where the gods were,
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and consecrated it to the great gods.
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These gods offered remarkable blessings.
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They, to the initiates,
offer protection at sea,
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and the opportunity for moral improvement.
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You became a better person by virtue
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of undergoing initiation into
the rights of the great God.
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- [Peter] I hear also that
Alexander the Great's parents
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met here or something,
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is that right?
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- Indeed they did, yes.
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Olympias and Philip II met,
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and their marriage contract
was likely brokered here,
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and of course, they are the,
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gave birth to Alexander the Great.
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- [Peter] And I understand
that happened all here
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at Therima,
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is that right?
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- Well, you know, somewhere
on this island it seems,
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we're pretty sure that they
went through initiation,
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so they were here at the sanctuary.
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- You know, Alexander, the
Sanctuary of the Great Gods,
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that great Mount Saos that
changes the weather every minute,
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it's a pretty special
island, this one, isn't it?
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- Oh, it vibrates.
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This is, everyone who comes here,
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can't always quite put their finger on it,
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but they know it's different and special,
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and they leave saying, "That was amazing."
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- And you know, I came here
a little bit underwhelmed,
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but you see this mountain,
and the changing weather,
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and you see stuff like,
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this is absolutely awesome.
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I mean, you get paid
to do this, don't you?
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- Yes.
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(both laughing)
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- Well over 2,000 years ago,
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pilgrims searching for a better,
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safer future would come
here from all parts
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of Greece and beyond,
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to undertake the famous initiation.
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This involved travelling
from temple to temple
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in a sacred process with
encounters that revealed
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symbols and revelations,
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cleansing the body and mind.
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The initiate would provide
offerings to the gods,
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and would then witness ritual dancing.
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Wine flowed freely, quite
often leading to intoxication,
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followed by the confessing of sins.
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Reminds me of a big
Saturday night in my 20s.
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I gotta keep up with you.
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(both laughing)
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- There's, as you can see,
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there's tonnes of material,
it's just not in--
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- It's everywhere!
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- Yeah, it's overwhelming, actually.
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- Wow.
- We have a hard time--
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- [Peter] So we don't know really
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where this piece goes, do we?
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- Oh, we do.
- We do?
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- We know exactly, we know,
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we can place every single one of these.
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- Is that right?
- There's a real difference
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between Greek and Roman architecture.
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Roman architecture is magnificent,
and is all about spaces,
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so it's made of concrete,
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and they formed these huge domes.
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But Greek architecture,
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every block is custom cut to
fit a particular position.
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- So the Greeks were better
at putting these things
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together than the Romans?
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- Just different objectives.
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Totally different objectives.
- But they were better,
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weren't they?
(Bonna laughs)
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C'mon, c'mon, we're sellin'
Greece here, right? (laughs)
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- [Bonna] In terms of skill,
and handling materials,
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and fineness of crafting,
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there's just nobody
better than the Greeks.
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- [Peter] Then nobody
better than the Greeks.
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- [Bonna] Nobody better.
- So what's amazing,
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there's random stones everywhere here,
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and yet we know where every
single piece comes from.
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- Yeah.
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- And we gotta thank people like Michael
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and you for that, eh?
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- Yeah, well, and the
many, many, many students
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who work with us to
record all the dimensions,
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and the find spots, and, yeah.
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All the seats were preserved,
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and then they just disappeared between--
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- So this was a theatre,
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was it?
- This is a theatre, and--
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- Oh, doesn't this look
absolutely magnificent?
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- [Bonna] Amazing, yeah.
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- [Peter] So the theatre was
here, and that was the Akion,
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what do you call it?
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- Well, that was the Hieron,
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and then the altar court
was kind of askanae,
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and then behind it all was the Victory.
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- There she stood.
- Yep.
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- Let's go up and have a look.
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So, Bonna, this is where the Nike,
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or the Nik-ay as you call her,
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she stood here.
- She did, she--
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- This is where it all began.
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- Yeah, or where it all ended.
- Where it all ended, yeah.
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- Remember, she was our
last great monument.
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- And she's now in Paris, obviously.
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Here?
- She's right here,
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right here, so facing into the sanctuary.
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- So if you got a Rolls-Royce,
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obviously I haven't the bust that she had,
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you got a Rolls-Royce or the Nike shoes,
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which should be Nik-ay, but anyway,
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this is where it all started.
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Is that right?
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- [Bonna] It is, it is.
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- [Peter] And she's now
in Paris at the Louvre.
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- But if you wanna know where she stood,
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and why she stood.
- Come here.
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- Come here.
- This is better,
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this is better.
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Shall we move on?
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- Absolutely, yeah.
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- Standing here where Nike stood,
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the goddess of victory,
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and looking down on the sanctuary,
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and listening to what
you said to me today,
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that message you delivered
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about the Sanctuary of the Great Gods,
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I wanna go back and learn more.
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I really have to say thank you very much
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for taking the time to
spend some time with us.
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- Well, it's been my pleasure,
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and thank you for sharing
Samothrace with so many others.
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- Thank you, thank you very much.
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- [Bonna] My pleasure.
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- You know what?
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I could look at this all day long.
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- Yeah, I know, I know.
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It's why I stay.
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- Yeah? (laughs)
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(cheerful music)
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(upbeat music)
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When you're climbing the mountains
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and walking the hiking trails in Greece,
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or anywhere for that matter,
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you need to get sustenance.
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And I don't wanna carry
lots of things around,
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apples, and fruit, you
wanna pack it in tight.
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So I like to take a bar with me.
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The problem is,
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in the islands, it's hard
to find a decent bar,
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so Kyriakos makes 'em for me.
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We call 'em the Kyriakos bar.
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And in front of us, we
have all the ingredients.
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- And all this other stuff.
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So let me go through it,
why don't I go through it.
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What we've got here is sunflower seeds,
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we got almonds, we got pumpkin seeds,
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we got cashews, pistachios,
almond butter, goji berries.
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- Cranberry.
- Cranberries,
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coconut oil, oats, honey, cinnamon,
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hemp seeds, wow.
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Shredded apple, dates, and maca powder.
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And all this put together,
cooked and stuff,
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what are we gonna do here?
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- Okay.
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- So what we do is we
get all the wet stuff.
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- [Peter] So we put all the wet stuff in,
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so he's got the coconut oil going in,
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the honey's going in, and
the almond butter's going in,
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and we're heating it up.
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Not too hot, is that right?
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So we take this heated emulsion,
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stick it in this glass bowl,
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and now we just mix everything together,
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is that right?
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It's pretty simple, isn't it?
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Now I don't think you have
to have these in exact,
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in exact measures, really.
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No one's really.
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You start mixing it, look, I'll do this,
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now let me do something,
let me do something,
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you get mixing, okay?
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Let me have a go at this, awesome.
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Yeah, that's it.
240
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Okay, the maca powder, that's a key.
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You don't wanna lose that.
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You can use different nuts
and fruits and things, but...
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Can you just get that out there, thanks.
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But when it comes to the maca powder,
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you need the maca powder.
246
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(cheerful music)
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We don't put the apple in too early,
248
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'cause if we put the apple
in too early, it'll bruise.
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It looks a bit bruised 'cause
it's been sittin' there
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for a while.
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Cameramen took forever to prepare.
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Don't laugh.
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All right, okay, you ready?
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And then we put the apple in,
255
00:09:33,440 --> 00:09:35,480
and a bit of cinnamon,
oh, is that too much?
256
00:09:35,480 --> 00:09:36,320
Sorry, man.
- No, no, no.
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- Sorry, sorry.
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I'll blame you when it doesn't taste good,
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but then again, I'm the one eating it,
260
00:09:40,080 --> 00:09:41,560
and the cameramen, and
our production assistant,
261
00:09:41,560 --> 00:09:45,360
and the soundie, and if
they don't like it, tough.
262
00:09:45,360 --> 00:09:47,360
It's the way it is, all right?
263
00:09:47,360 --> 00:09:48,720
Now have a look at this.
264
00:09:48,720 --> 00:09:50,200
This, can we just show?
265
00:09:50,200 --> 00:09:51,640
- Yes.
- Have a look at that.
266
00:09:51,640 --> 00:09:52,800
Look at that stuff.
267
00:09:52,800 --> 00:09:56,040
(sniffs) Ooh.
268
00:09:56,040 --> 00:09:57,760
Wow, this is easy.
269
00:09:57,760 --> 00:09:59,400
After this, after he flattens it out,
270
00:09:59,400 --> 00:10:01,600
it's gonna go in the
oven for, at 160 degrees,
271
00:10:01,600 --> 00:10:03,120
for about 20 minutes.
272
00:10:03,120 --> 00:10:04,680
And we don't want it to cook, do we?
273
00:10:05,680 --> 00:10:06,920
- (speaks in foreign
language) I've got no idea
274
00:10:06,920 --> 00:10:09,480
what that means, but we
don't want it to cook.
275
00:10:09,480 --> 00:10:10,320
- No.
- (laughs) Thank you,
276
00:10:10,320 --> 00:10:11,200
thank you, thank you.
277
00:10:11,200 --> 00:10:12,600
Do you know the English translation?
278
00:10:12,600 --> 00:10:14,040
- No.
- No, no, well, there you,
279
00:10:14,040 --> 00:10:15,120
Oh, oh, sorry.
280
00:10:15,120 --> 00:10:16,520
And we put this on top now?
281
00:10:18,920 --> 00:10:20,120
- [Peter] Awesome stuff.
282
00:10:22,840 --> 00:10:25,240
- I'm gonna take Kyriakos
home to Australia with me.
283
00:10:25,240 --> 00:10:27,200
Eh, do you wanna come
to Australia with me?
284
00:10:27,200 --> 00:10:28,640
- (laughs) Course.
- Yeah, of course, of course.
285
00:10:28,640 --> 00:10:30,080
I don't think you have any choice.
286
00:10:32,040 --> 00:10:34,280
I think Kyriakos will fit in my bag.
287
00:10:34,280 --> 00:10:36,000
You'll fit in my bag.
288
00:10:36,000 --> 00:10:37,880
Yeah.
- I don't think so.
289
00:10:37,880 --> 00:10:40,560
(both laughing)
290
00:10:43,040 --> 00:10:44,760
Okay, we good.
291
00:10:44,760 --> 00:10:45,800
- All right, now we put it in the oven?
292
00:10:45,800 --> 00:10:46,960
I'll put it in the oven, okay.
293
00:10:46,960 --> 00:10:48,440
- [Kyriakos] Okay.
294
00:10:52,920 --> 00:10:54,000
- So it's been 20 minutes,
295
00:10:54,000 --> 00:10:57,480
and we're gonna pull it out
of the oven to let it cool.
296
00:10:57,480 --> 00:10:59,160
(sighs) Wow, that looks good.
297
00:11:01,360 --> 00:11:02,720
So we're gonna turn it over?
298
00:11:02,720 --> 00:11:03,760
- Let's turn it over.
299
00:11:05,920 --> 00:11:08,040
You're gonna do this by yourself?
300
00:11:08,040 --> 00:11:09,560
Ooh, this is very professional.
301
00:11:11,080 --> 00:11:12,840
It's like a pancake.
302
00:11:12,840 --> 00:11:15,000
(groans) I think we've
broken it a bit, though.
303
00:11:15,000 --> 00:11:17,600
But it's not a big deal, 'cause
the broken bit on the side,
304
00:11:17,600 --> 00:11:18,920
I'm just gonna take, ooh!
305
00:11:20,440 --> 00:11:22,520
Ah, that is awesome, man.
306
00:11:23,600 --> 00:11:25,200
That is so good.
307
00:11:26,720 --> 00:11:27,560
Oh, man.
308
00:11:30,080 --> 00:11:32,600
You're the best, mate, you know that?
309
00:11:32,600 --> 00:11:34,280
That's so good, yep.
310
00:11:36,080 --> 00:11:37,720
There are people in the bleachers,
311
00:11:37,720 --> 00:11:39,480
so we want them to taste it as well.
312
00:11:39,480 --> 00:11:43,600
Specifically, Paige, who
helped with the recipe.
313
00:11:43,600 --> 00:11:45,960
So, whaddya think?
314
00:11:45,960 --> 00:11:48,120
- Well, it has to be
pretty good if I did it.
315
00:11:48,120 --> 00:11:49,120
- Yeah, I suppose.
316
00:11:49,120 --> 00:11:50,800
C'mon, Jen.
317
00:11:50,800 --> 00:11:53,240
Ioanna, our production
assistant here, manager.
318
00:11:53,240 --> 00:11:54,160
Whaddya think?
319
00:11:55,440 --> 00:11:56,520
(women moaning)
320
00:11:56,520 --> 00:11:57,400
- Amazing.
- Pretty cool.
321
00:11:57,400 --> 00:11:59,560
- Very tasty.
- We love 'em.
322
00:12:01,840 --> 00:12:04,080
I'm goin' up the mountain now.
323
00:12:04,080 --> 00:12:06,000
(women laughing)
324
00:12:06,000 --> 00:12:08,280
One of these Kyriakos
bars and a bottle of water
325
00:12:08,280 --> 00:12:11,000
sustains me for a good
three or four hour hike.
326
00:12:11,000 --> 00:12:13,360
We might have to get these
things into the supermarkets.
327
00:12:13,360 --> 00:12:14,720
They could be the next big thing
328
00:12:14,720 --> 00:12:16,120
in natural sport nutrition.
329
00:12:18,080 --> 00:12:21,480
(water splashing)
330
00:12:21,480 --> 00:12:23,280
From the confines of the ship's kitchen,
331
00:12:23,280 --> 00:12:26,200
to the wide open spaces
of the island's interior.
332
00:12:26,200 --> 00:12:28,320
With one of Kyriakos' bars in my pack,
333
00:12:28,320 --> 00:12:30,400
I took to the trails for a rainforest walk
334
00:12:30,400 --> 00:12:33,200
with the Vice President
of Sustainable Samothraki,
335
00:12:33,200 --> 00:12:34,480
Giorgos Maskalidis.
336
00:12:36,160 --> 00:12:39,160
Giorgos, when someone told
me there was rainforest
337
00:12:39,160 --> 00:12:40,000
in Greece,
338
00:12:40,000 --> 00:12:40,840
I did not believe them.
339
00:12:40,840 --> 00:12:43,040
But now, I look at this,
this is paradise, man.
340
00:12:43,040 --> 00:12:44,080
- It is paradise.
341
00:12:44,080 --> 00:12:46,760
Here, the north side of
the island is so unique,
342
00:12:46,760 --> 00:12:48,560
so different from the south,
343
00:12:48,560 --> 00:12:53,200
all the humidity is kept by
the mountain at the north,
344
00:12:53,200 --> 00:12:55,360
and you see those giant plane trees,
345
00:12:55,360 --> 00:12:57,600
and the fern in the openings.
346
00:12:57,600 --> 00:12:59,120
It's really amazing.
347
00:12:59,120 --> 00:13:03,200
The water creates a completely
different landscape here.
348
00:13:03,200 --> 00:13:05,320
- It's completely different to
the other side of the island.
349
00:13:05,320 --> 00:13:06,360
- Yes.
- Unbelievable.
350
00:13:06,360 --> 00:13:10,280
We've got three or four
ecosystems here in 17 kilometres.
351
00:13:10,280 --> 00:13:14,280
- Yes, yes, microclimate is
dominant all over the island.
352
00:13:14,280 --> 00:13:16,800
- So, Giorgos, I understand
that the running waters here,
353
00:13:16,800 --> 00:13:17,640
from the mountain,
354
00:13:17,640 --> 00:13:19,720
are only one of three
within a kilometre radius,
355
00:13:19,720 --> 00:13:20,560
is that right?
356
00:13:20,560 --> 00:13:21,360
Three different waters?
357
00:13:21,360 --> 00:13:22,200
- Yes, yes, yes.
358
00:13:22,200 --> 00:13:25,080
We have the running
water from the mountain,
359
00:13:25,080 --> 00:13:29,960
we have the volcanic water
to the thermal springs,
360
00:13:29,960 --> 00:13:33,640
and then we also have the
salt water from the sea.
361
00:13:33,640 --> 00:13:35,040
- Is that right?
- Yeah.
362
00:13:35,040 --> 00:13:37,440
- So you've got three
different waters literally
363
00:13:37,440 --> 00:13:38,920
between a kilometre radius?
364
00:13:38,920 --> 00:13:39,760
- Exactly.
365
00:13:39,760 --> 00:13:41,640
- That must be a very rare ecosystem.
366
00:13:41,640 --> 00:13:43,200
- I think so, yeah, yeah.
367
00:13:43,200 --> 00:13:44,040
- Should we keep goin'?
368
00:13:44,040 --> 00:13:45,080
- Yeah.
- Let's go.
369
00:13:45,080 --> 00:13:47,320
- Let's go.
- This is awesome.
370
00:13:47,320 --> 00:13:49,880
(gentle music)
371
00:13:50,880 --> 00:13:54,320
(water crashing)
372
00:13:54,320 --> 00:13:57,320
Oh, Giorgos, wow.
373
00:13:57,320 --> 00:13:59,800
Five or 10 minutes into the
walk and we've got this.
374
00:13:59,800 --> 00:14:01,320
It's fantastic, isn't it?
375
00:14:01,320 --> 00:14:02,160
- It is, it is.
376
00:14:02,160 --> 00:14:03,160
- Let's keep moving, I wanna see more.
377
00:14:03,160 --> 00:14:04,000
- Yes.
378
00:14:07,480 --> 00:14:10,120
- There are countless hiking
trails across the island.
379
00:14:10,120 --> 00:14:11,560
Each varying in their difficulty
380
00:14:11,560 --> 00:14:13,760
and the landscapes that they explore.
381
00:14:13,760 --> 00:14:14,800
In this instance,
382
00:14:14,800 --> 00:14:16,880
I opted for a more casual route.
383
00:14:16,880 --> 00:14:18,520
As much as I like challenge,
384
00:14:18,520 --> 00:14:19,800
sometimes it's nice to be able
385
00:14:19,800 --> 00:14:21,960
to just really absorb the scenery.
386
00:14:21,960 --> 00:14:24,000
It was an incredibly peaceful setting
387
00:14:24,000 --> 00:14:25,280
with a bubbling stream,
388
00:14:25,280 --> 00:14:27,880
and the sound of the wind in
the trees filling the air.
389
00:14:27,880 --> 00:14:29,600
I can understand why Giorgos comes up here
390
00:14:29,600 --> 00:14:31,360
on almost a daily basis.
391
00:14:34,800 --> 00:14:37,560
Man, and you can drink this water, right?
392
00:14:37,560 --> 00:14:38,560
- Yeah.
393
00:14:38,560 --> 00:14:41,160
- Let's test it out, and
see what it's like, eh?
394
00:14:45,480 --> 00:14:48,720
(sighs) So soft, the
water's beautiful here.
395
00:14:49,840 --> 00:14:51,840
So if you wanted to trek,
396
00:14:51,840 --> 00:14:53,160
you could trek right through there.
397
00:14:53,160 --> 00:14:55,360
- Yes, yes, yes, you can.
398
00:14:55,360 --> 00:14:58,880
But it's better now, we
have to take our clothes...
399
00:14:58,880 --> 00:15:00,760
- No, no, we're not gonna do that, mate.
400
00:15:00,760 --> 00:15:02,880
- No, no.
- We're not gonna do that.
401
00:15:02,880 --> 00:15:04,360
For many, many reasons.
- Yes, yes.
402
00:15:04,360 --> 00:15:07,840
- But this is more than just a hike.
403
00:15:07,840 --> 00:15:08,800
This is a real trek, isn't it?
404
00:15:08,800 --> 00:15:10,720
- Yeah, yeah, yeah.
405
00:15:10,720 --> 00:15:11,680
- Fantastic, man.
406
00:15:12,760 --> 00:15:15,480
So, let's do the easy way up there, eh?
407
00:15:15,480 --> 00:15:18,120
(both laughing)
408
00:15:20,000 --> 00:15:22,720
I'm not usually the kind of
guy that takes the easy option.
409
00:15:22,720 --> 00:15:25,680
But in this instance, I had
a camera crew to think about.
410
00:15:25,680 --> 00:15:27,640
At least that's the excuse I'm going with.
411
00:15:27,640 --> 00:15:30,280
To be honest, the mountain
water wasn't exactly warm.
412
00:15:41,480 --> 00:15:44,040
(upbeat music)
413
00:15:51,720 --> 00:15:54,360
(water babbles)
414
00:16:04,000 --> 00:16:05,200
The goats here,
415
00:16:05,200 --> 00:16:08,000
the goats here are not
just mountain climbers,
416
00:16:08,000 --> 00:16:09,160
they're tree climbers,
417
00:16:09,160 --> 00:16:11,640
'cause they're looking for
food wherever they can.
418
00:16:14,640 --> 00:16:15,680
I'm no scientist,
419
00:16:15,680 --> 00:16:17,120
but I think I've worked out the reason
420
00:16:17,120 --> 00:16:18,160
why the best restaurants
421
00:16:18,160 --> 00:16:20,400
in Athens serve Samothracian goat.
422
00:16:20,400 --> 00:16:22,760
These mountain dwellers
have become gymnasts,
423
00:16:22,760 --> 00:16:25,760
and have obviously
developed far superior DNA,
424
00:16:25,760 --> 00:16:27,520
which makes them taste better, too.
425
00:16:30,000 --> 00:16:31,320
Hey, boys.
426
00:16:31,320 --> 00:16:33,760
Hey, boys, hey.
427
00:16:33,760 --> 00:16:36,800
Even after we've gone out of the canopy,
428
00:16:36,800 --> 00:16:38,840
we're comin' up here into the open,
429
00:16:38,840 --> 00:16:40,560
and it's still very lush.
430
00:16:43,720 --> 00:16:44,920
It's beautiful.
431
00:16:44,920 --> 00:16:46,640
- It is, it is.
432
00:16:46,640 --> 00:16:47,680
- (gasps) And here's the sea.
433
00:16:47,680 --> 00:16:49,560
- Yeah.
- You know what?
434
00:16:49,560 --> 00:16:51,560
Let's just stop here for a moment,
435
00:16:51,560 --> 00:16:52,440
'cause it's starting to get warmer.
436
00:16:52,440 --> 00:16:53,920
I might take my jacket off, whaddya think?
437
00:16:53,920 --> 00:16:54,760
- Me, too.
438
00:16:54,760 --> 00:16:56,880
- And just enjoy the sea.
439
00:16:58,200 --> 00:16:59,280
Yeah, and the view.
440
00:16:59,280 --> 00:17:02,240
- The view is amazing.
- It's spectacular, isn't it?
441
00:17:02,240 --> 00:17:05,280
- It is lush, but you see the fern?
442
00:17:06,280 --> 00:17:08,400
Although it adds to the scenery,
443
00:17:08,400 --> 00:17:13,280
it hides risk for the
regeneration of the forest
444
00:17:13,280 --> 00:17:17,280
because it comes so dense
and then the seedlings
445
00:17:17,280 --> 00:17:20,680
from the trees cannot survive easily.
446
00:17:20,680 --> 00:17:24,040
As you can see, we have
old trees here that died,
447
00:17:24,040 --> 00:17:27,040
and we can't see new trees coming up.
448
00:17:27,040 --> 00:17:28,040
- And this is part of your work, right?
449
00:17:28,040 --> 00:17:29,200
- Yes.
- As, you know,
450
00:17:29,200 --> 00:17:31,120
you're a forestry professional,
451
00:17:31,120 --> 00:17:33,280
and you are the Vice President
452
00:17:33,280 --> 00:17:34,120
of the Sustainable Samothraki.
453
00:17:34,120 --> 00:17:35,640
- Samothraki Association.
- So you're looking
454
00:17:35,640 --> 00:17:36,960
specifically at this sort of stuff?
455
00:17:36,960 --> 00:17:37,800
- Yes, yes.
456
00:17:37,800 --> 00:17:41,160
I mean, for the environment,
everything is important,
457
00:17:41,160 --> 00:17:42,920
and everything has its place.
458
00:17:42,920 --> 00:17:47,000
But you really want to
recognise the places
459
00:17:48,600 --> 00:17:53,080
where there you have a risk or it is okay,
460
00:17:53,080 --> 00:17:54,440
there you should do something,
461
00:17:54,440 --> 00:17:58,120
there you should leave it grow, continue,
462
00:17:58,120 --> 00:17:59,920
evolve by itself.
463
00:17:59,920 --> 00:18:04,560
It's just an indicator
so you know how to manage
464
00:18:04,560 --> 00:18:07,960
the ecosystem sustainably.
465
00:18:07,960 --> 00:18:09,720
- Man, you have a big
responsibility, buddy.
466
00:18:09,720 --> 00:18:11,320
It's awesome.
467
00:18:11,320 --> 00:18:13,160
- It is a big responsibility, but is--
468
00:18:13,160 --> 00:18:14,920
- Someone's gotta do it, mate.
469
00:18:14,920 --> 00:18:17,160
- Someone's gotta do it, yeah.
- If you don't do it,
470
00:18:17,160 --> 00:18:19,440
God knows what'll happen.
471
00:18:19,440 --> 00:18:21,840
Giorgos gives more than
just his time to preserve
472
00:18:21,840 --> 00:18:23,360
this pristine environment.
473
00:18:23,360 --> 00:18:25,320
He puts his heart and soul into it.
474
00:18:25,320 --> 00:18:28,680
To him, maintaining this
habitat is just as important
475
00:18:28,680 --> 00:18:32,440
as preserving the archaeological
sites around the island.
476
00:18:32,440 --> 00:18:35,120
The ruggedness of Samothraki,
477
00:18:35,120 --> 00:18:37,920
the amount of water that
comes down these mountains,
478
00:18:37,920 --> 00:18:40,440
constantly changes the landscape.
479
00:18:40,440 --> 00:18:42,800
Giorgos gone up front
ahead to just have a look
480
00:18:42,800 --> 00:18:43,920
to make sure it's safe.
481
00:18:43,920 --> 00:18:46,160
It's not the sort of place
you wanna come on your own
482
00:18:46,160 --> 00:18:47,440
and follow a trail,
483
00:18:47,440 --> 00:18:50,480
because the trail has
to change all the time.
484
00:18:50,480 --> 00:18:51,640
And I tell you what,
485
00:18:51,640 --> 00:18:52,480
I'm shit scared.
486
00:18:54,480 --> 00:18:55,920
(peaceful music)
487
00:18:55,920 --> 00:18:57,000
The constant rain eroded the trail.
488
00:18:57,000 --> 00:19:00,440
In some parts, it had completely
vanished due to landslides.
489
00:19:01,800 --> 00:19:03,320
I'ma go down that way.
490
00:19:03,320 --> 00:19:05,800
You had to carefully pick
your way through the rubble.
491
00:19:05,800 --> 00:19:08,400
One wrong step, and you'd
end up in the gorge below.
492
00:19:09,320 --> 00:19:11,200
The local residents, meaning the goats,
493
00:19:11,200 --> 00:19:12,800
are actually part of the problem.
494
00:19:12,800 --> 00:19:16,040
They eat almost everything
which in turn destabilises
495
00:19:16,040 --> 00:19:18,200
the earth so it simply washes away.
496
00:19:20,120 --> 00:19:23,000
How many goats do you think
there are on Samothraki?
497
00:19:23,000 --> 00:19:24,920
- [Giorgos] At the moment,
it's difficult to estimate,
498
00:19:24,920 --> 00:19:29,120
but I would say something
within 50 to 60,000 animals.
499
00:19:29,120 --> 00:19:30,240
Goats and sheep.
500
00:19:31,360 --> 00:19:33,280
- Goats and sheep, 50 to 60,000?
501
00:19:33,280 --> 00:19:35,520
- Yeah.
- Man, that's a lot of goats.
502
00:19:42,080 --> 00:19:42,920
Wow.
503
00:19:44,600 --> 00:19:48,080
Giorgos, it's so rugged, and yet so quiet.
504
00:19:48,080 --> 00:19:49,440
There's nobody here.
505
00:19:49,440 --> 00:19:51,120
- Yeah.
- It's amazing.
506
00:19:51,120 --> 00:19:53,280
It's almost romantic, you know?
507
00:19:53,280 --> 00:19:54,640
It's the sort of place
you bring your wife,
508
00:19:54,640 --> 00:19:57,600
or if you're not married,
your lover, you know?
509
00:19:57,600 --> 00:20:00,640
I can understand now
why Alexander the Great
510
00:20:00,640 --> 00:20:02,400
was conceived in this region.
511
00:20:02,400 --> 00:20:03,520
Eh?
(Giorgos laughing)
512
00:20:03,520 --> 00:20:04,720
- Yeah.
- Amazing, man.
513
00:20:04,720 --> 00:20:05,680
The ruggedness, you know,
514
00:20:05,680 --> 00:20:07,280
the ruggedness of Alexander the Great,
515
00:20:07,280 --> 00:20:09,280
and that romance here, it's awesome.
516
00:20:09,280 --> 00:20:11,080
Almost think I should
bring Helen here tomorrow.
517
00:20:11,080 --> 00:20:11,920
Whaddya think?
- Yes.
518
00:20:11,920 --> 00:20:12,840
- I can come here without you now,
519
00:20:12,840 --> 00:20:13,920
eh?
- Yes.
520
00:20:13,920 --> 00:20:15,040
- Look at this.
521
00:20:15,040 --> 00:20:17,400
- It's amazing.
- It is amazing, man.
522
00:20:17,400 --> 00:20:18,880
It's amazing.
523
00:20:18,880 --> 00:20:20,040
(upbeat music)
524
00:20:20,040 --> 00:20:22,800
(water babbling)
525
00:20:29,560 --> 00:20:31,880
Hey, Giorgos, you wanna
share a Kyriakos bar with me?
526
00:20:31,880 --> 00:20:33,240
- [Giorgos] Yes, I would love to.
527
00:20:33,240 --> 00:20:35,480
- [Peter] It's very natural, mate.
528
00:20:36,880 --> 00:20:37,720
Here you go, that's what's left of it.
529
00:20:37,720 --> 00:20:39,240
Take it, take it all, mate, take it all,
530
00:20:39,240 --> 00:20:41,040
I've eaten the rest of it.
531
00:20:41,040 --> 00:20:41,880
Look at that.
532
00:20:41,880 --> 00:20:42,720
And I'll have the crumbs.
533
00:20:45,680 --> 00:20:47,480
This is the life, man.
- Yeah.
534
00:20:47,480 --> 00:20:49,080
- This is the life.
535
00:20:52,400 --> 00:20:53,560
A short walk back and we found
536
00:20:53,560 --> 00:20:55,600
the third source of water in the area,
537
00:20:55,600 --> 00:20:57,360
and these ones were a stark contrast
538
00:20:57,360 --> 00:20:58,800
to the cold mountain streams.
539
00:21:05,800 --> 00:21:08,880
After long day of walking
through the forest,
540
00:21:08,880 --> 00:21:10,720
nice to come and get the thermal waters.
541
00:21:10,720 --> 00:21:12,600
Now, I could have gone
to the commercial job,
542
00:21:12,600 --> 00:21:14,520
the big building around
the corner that's covered,
543
00:21:14,520 --> 00:21:16,960
and all set up for the five star-ers,
544
00:21:16,960 --> 00:21:19,120
but I like to be out
here with everybody else
545
00:21:19,120 --> 00:21:20,360
in that little small one.
546
00:21:24,120 --> 00:21:27,000
I'm in this 35 degree, warm water,
547
00:21:27,000 --> 00:21:30,680
from the volcanic, subterranean,
548
00:21:30,680 --> 00:21:32,640
God knows what, coming up
here, but it's awesome.
549
00:21:32,640 --> 00:21:33,560
It feels great.
550
00:21:34,560 --> 00:21:36,320
This is where Alexander was conceived.
551
00:21:36,320 --> 00:21:39,600
Alexander the Great, around
here, in these thermal waters.
552
00:21:39,600 --> 00:21:41,200
Two-and-a-half thousand,
well, 2,200 years ago,
553
00:21:41,200 --> 00:21:46,200
something like that anyway, beautiful.
554
00:21:48,920 --> 00:21:51,360
I couldn't think of a better
way to end a day of hiking
555
00:21:51,360 --> 00:21:52,960
than with a soothing bath
556
00:21:52,960 --> 00:21:54,840
in one of Mother Nature's hot springs.
557
00:22:02,560 --> 00:22:05,120
(upbeat music)
558
00:22:14,560 --> 00:22:17,000
The tallest mountain in
the Aegean is Mount Saos.
559
00:22:17,000 --> 00:22:18,080
Here in Samothrace,
560
00:22:18,080 --> 00:22:20,640
not only can you see it from
every part of the island,
561
00:22:20,640 --> 00:22:22,520
but it pretty much is the island.
562
00:22:22,520 --> 00:22:24,360
Clouds frequently cloak the summit
563
00:22:24,360 --> 00:22:26,560
providing the rain that
gives the island its tapestry
564
00:22:26,560 --> 00:22:28,520
of streams and waterfalls.
565
00:22:28,520 --> 00:22:30,000
As a result, there's an abundance
566
00:22:30,000 --> 00:22:31,360
of green wherever you look.
567
00:22:33,120 --> 00:22:34,480
We're on the south part of the island,
568
00:22:34,480 --> 00:22:37,480
and behind me is a spot
called Tapalias Kyrias,
569
00:22:37,480 --> 00:22:39,480
which is The Clothes of the Old Lady,
570
00:22:39,480 --> 00:22:42,880
and in front of me is
Kremastos, a waterfall.
571
00:22:42,880 --> 00:22:45,440
There's that much water
coming off the mountain
572
00:22:45,440 --> 00:22:46,360
all year round,
573
00:22:46,360 --> 00:22:48,400
the water's running down
this little waterfall.
574
00:22:48,400 --> 00:22:51,680
And it's summer, and
it's still coming down.
575
00:22:51,680 --> 00:22:53,320
Come winter it's just gushing down.
576
00:22:53,320 --> 00:22:55,280
And a lot of guys canyon down here.
577
00:22:56,760 --> 00:22:58,280
Bit crazy.
578
00:22:58,280 --> 00:23:00,600
But if you come here in July and August,
579
00:23:00,600 --> 00:23:02,320
come round here for a swim,
580
00:23:02,320 --> 00:23:05,240
and have a shower under
the beautiful fresh water
581
00:23:05,240 --> 00:23:06,120
of the mountain,
582
00:23:06,120 --> 00:23:07,360
while you're sitting in salt water.
583
00:23:07,360 --> 00:23:08,400
It's awesome here.
584
00:23:09,520 --> 00:23:12,040
Now if I was a bit younger
and a bit stronger,
585
00:23:12,040 --> 00:23:14,080
I'd be climbing up there.
586
00:23:14,080 --> 00:23:15,280
In my dreams, anyway.
587
00:23:17,280 --> 00:23:18,360
Way up there.
588
00:23:21,800 --> 00:23:24,560
(metal clanking)
589
00:23:27,280 --> 00:23:28,760
Travelling further along the coast,
590
00:23:28,760 --> 00:23:30,760
we made our way to one of
the most popular beaches
591
00:23:30,760 --> 00:23:32,840
on the island, Pachia Ammos.
592
00:23:32,840 --> 00:23:35,320
But going for a swim was
secondary to the real reason
593
00:23:35,320 --> 00:23:36,480
for dropping anchor here.
594
00:23:36,480 --> 00:23:38,800
I'd heard about a lookout
that couldn't be missed.
595
00:23:38,800 --> 00:23:40,600
And while a swim was on the agenda,
596
00:23:40,600 --> 00:23:42,680
I had some exploring to do first.
597
00:23:42,680 --> 00:23:44,120
Most of these people were oblivious
598
00:23:44,120 --> 00:23:45,920
to what was on the mountain behind them.
599
00:23:45,920 --> 00:23:49,000
You need inside info to find
the best spots in Greece.
600
00:23:49,000 --> 00:23:51,800
That said, relaxing on a
beach on the island's drier,
601
00:23:51,800 --> 00:23:54,920
southern coast is a pretty
good way to spend your day.
602
00:23:58,880 --> 00:24:01,640
(engine roaring)
603
00:24:08,240 --> 00:24:10,880
(Peter banging)
604
00:24:13,040 --> 00:24:16,000
Wow, I just had to stop
and show you this view.
605
00:24:17,080 --> 00:24:18,600
Have a look at that, eh.
606
00:24:18,600 --> 00:24:20,000
Isn't it beautiful?
607
00:24:21,040 --> 00:24:21,880
But we've got a long way to go
608
00:24:21,880 --> 00:24:23,920
to see something very special.
609
00:24:26,000 --> 00:24:28,560
(gentle music)
610
00:24:31,360 --> 00:24:33,320
(Peter speaks in foreign language)
611
00:24:33,320 --> 00:24:35,120
I didn't have transport planned,
612
00:24:35,120 --> 00:24:37,000
so I asked a couple of locals.
613
00:24:37,000 --> 00:24:38,360
In no time at all,
614
00:24:38,360 --> 00:24:41,160
Tharnassi, a goat herder,
volunteered to take me up.
615
00:24:41,160 --> 00:24:44,520
He went out of his way for
absolutely nothing in return.
616
00:24:44,520 --> 00:24:47,600
It's the type of unconditional
kindness you often encounter
617
00:24:47,600 --> 00:24:49,280
on small Greek islands.
618
00:24:49,280 --> 00:24:50,560
We call it (speaks in foreign language).
619
00:24:51,520 --> 00:24:53,560
When you travel around the world,
620
00:24:53,560 --> 00:24:58,320
the best real estate is
generally left for hotels,
621
00:24:58,320 --> 00:25:02,480
high class restaurants, or luxury homes.
622
00:25:02,480 --> 00:25:06,000
But in Greece, we reserve
these for churches.
623
00:25:07,400 --> 00:25:08,720
Have a look at this beauty.
624
00:25:13,160 --> 00:25:15,280
Perched on the edge of sheer rock faces,
625
00:25:15,280 --> 00:25:17,800
the aptly named Panathea Karmiotissa,
626
00:25:17,800 --> 00:25:19,240
is a sight to behold.
627
00:25:20,160 --> 00:25:22,800
The name translates to
Virgin Mary on the cliffs,
628
00:25:22,800 --> 00:25:24,200
the cliffs that surround it.
629
00:25:29,760 --> 00:25:31,360
It's not much of a walk from the car,
630
00:25:31,360 --> 00:25:32,600
but I tell you what,
631
00:25:32,600 --> 00:25:34,480
it's worth the drive up here.
632
00:25:34,480 --> 00:25:37,040
I better pay my respects
and light a candle though.
633
00:25:37,040 --> 00:25:39,880
Wow, it's a beautiful little church.
634
00:25:41,920 --> 00:25:43,040
Let's see if it's open.
635
00:25:47,080 --> 00:25:47,920
We're in luck.
636
00:25:49,320 --> 00:25:51,400
Every church in Greece has a story.
637
00:25:51,400 --> 00:25:53,920
Many of them seem strangely similar.
638
00:25:53,920 --> 00:25:54,760
Legend has it,
639
00:25:54,760 --> 00:25:56,640
shepherds found the
icon of the Virgin Mary
640
00:25:56,640 --> 00:25:57,880
near the beach below.
641
00:25:57,880 --> 00:26:00,320
To protect it, they placed it in a cave.
642
00:26:00,320 --> 00:26:02,200
But when they returned the following day,
643
00:26:02,200 --> 00:26:04,560
the icon was on a rock
at the edge of the cliff.
644
00:26:04,560 --> 00:26:05,640
So it was decided that this
645
00:26:05,640 --> 00:26:07,360
should be the location of a chapel.
646
00:26:07,360 --> 00:26:09,120
I think I've heard this one before.
647
00:26:10,280 --> 00:26:12,720
You know, it's a warm day,
648
00:26:12,720 --> 00:26:15,080
but what's good about this church is
649
00:26:15,080 --> 00:26:17,200
the best beach on the
island, Pachio Ammos,
650
00:26:17,200 --> 00:26:19,880
is right down there, that's
where I'm going right now.
651
00:26:21,160 --> 00:26:22,440
Have a dip.
652
00:26:22,440 --> 00:26:25,200
(cheerful music)
653
00:26:28,320 --> 00:26:30,240
At just over 300 metres high,
654
00:26:30,240 --> 00:26:32,640
the views from the church
no doubt inspire awe
655
00:26:32,640 --> 00:26:34,200
in the visiting faithful.
656
00:26:34,200 --> 00:26:36,600
The journey up is well worth the effort.
657
00:26:36,600 --> 00:26:39,320
And also a great way
to work up an appetite.
658
00:26:39,320 --> 00:26:40,160
And what's good is,
659
00:26:40,160 --> 00:26:42,440
when you're finished at
the Panathea Karmiotissa,
660
00:26:42,440 --> 00:26:44,120
you can come down just 10 metres,
661
00:26:44,120 --> 00:26:45,760
the coffee shop Manoli's,
662
00:26:45,760 --> 00:26:49,400
and you'll have some of
his Myzithra with honey,
663
00:26:49,400 --> 00:26:50,720
which is ricotta cheese.
664
00:26:52,520 --> 00:26:53,360
- Let's see what it's like.
665
00:26:53,360 --> 00:26:54,480
He reckons it's good, he makes it himself.
666
00:26:54,480 --> 00:26:56,760
He makes the honey himself,
and the cheese himself.
667
00:26:56,760 --> 00:26:59,160
And I'll tell you now, Manoli.
668
00:27:00,880 --> 00:27:03,080
- Oh, that's awesome.
669
00:27:03,080 --> 00:27:04,400
It gets you straight away.
670
00:27:12,320 --> 00:27:13,160
- That's great.
671
00:27:13,160 --> 00:27:14,520
That's fantastic, man.
672
00:27:14,520 --> 00:27:15,920
It might seem simple,
673
00:27:15,920 --> 00:27:19,120
but the Greek go-to
snack is a strong coffee,
674
00:27:19,120 --> 00:27:22,560
fresh Myzithra cheese,
with a drizzle of honey.
675
00:27:22,560 --> 00:27:24,840
But I needed a bit more to ease my hunger,
676
00:27:24,840 --> 00:27:26,400
and knew just the place.
677
00:27:27,840 --> 00:27:30,320
(water crashing)
678
00:27:30,320 --> 00:27:31,240
Like the church,
679
00:27:31,240 --> 00:27:34,120
it took local knowledge to
discover this little gem.
680
00:27:34,120 --> 00:27:35,600
It came recommended by Giorgos,
681
00:27:35,600 --> 00:27:37,720
who took me hiking the day before.
682
00:27:37,720 --> 00:27:39,480
It's where the locals go for a bite,
683
00:27:39,480 --> 00:27:40,600
so it must be good.
684
00:27:42,080 --> 00:27:44,000
I looked at your menu,
685
00:27:44,000 --> 00:27:45,880
and I saw a number of goat recipes.
686
00:27:45,880 --> 00:27:48,120
How many different goat
recipes do you serve here?
687
00:27:48,120 --> 00:27:50,120
- It's more to 25.
688
00:27:50,120 --> 00:27:52,080
- 25 goat recipes?
- Yeah, yeah.
689
00:27:52,080 --> 00:27:53,800
- And I love the honey goat.
- Thank you.
690
00:27:53,800 --> 00:27:55,960
- And the plum goat's
good, and the stuffed goat,
691
00:27:55,960 --> 00:27:56,920
we're gonna have the stuffed goat tonight.
692
00:27:56,920 --> 00:27:58,360
- Tonight, yes.
693
00:27:58,360 --> 00:28:00,880
- We're supposed to come here
just to see the stuffed goat,
694
00:28:00,880 --> 00:28:01,720
but we couldn't help it.
695
00:28:01,720 --> 00:28:03,240
We had to eat as well, you know?
696
00:28:04,680 --> 00:28:07,320
So this is the provincial
dish of Samothraki,
697
00:28:07,320 --> 00:28:10,360
which is stuffed goat with
rice and all sorts of herbs,
698
00:28:10,360 --> 00:28:14,400
and it's also got all the
guts in there as well.
699
00:28:14,400 --> 00:28:16,360
Intestines, you name it.
700
00:28:16,360 --> 00:28:19,360
Now Miss Dina is opening up
so we can have a look inside.
701
00:28:20,720 --> 00:28:22,080
Because they've started cooking it.
702
00:28:22,080 --> 00:28:23,880
We're a bit here late, we're a bit late.
703
00:28:38,400 --> 00:28:41,040
- Four or five hours, 200 degrees,
704
00:28:41,040 --> 00:28:43,160
and we're gonna be eating this tonight.
705
00:28:43,160 --> 00:28:44,040
Awesome, man.
706
00:28:47,960 --> 00:28:50,040
- She's gonna turn it later on.
707
00:28:50,040 --> 00:28:52,160
I'm starved now, let's go and
have something to eat now,
708
00:28:52,160 --> 00:28:53,320
even before lunch.
709
00:29:03,560 --> 00:29:06,120
(upbeat music)
710
00:29:15,960 --> 00:29:18,280
The sun was setting low in the sky,
711
00:29:18,280 --> 00:29:20,360
which meant only one thing.
712
00:29:20,360 --> 00:29:22,200
Dinner would soon be served.
713
00:29:29,840 --> 00:29:32,080
- He's saying the colour
the key, the colour is,
714
00:29:32,080 --> 00:29:32,920
you know, there is nothing like this.
715
00:29:32,920 --> 00:29:33,800
It's awesome.
716
00:29:33,800 --> 00:29:35,840
And, you know, as the Greeks say.
717
00:29:37,520 --> 00:29:38,880
(sighs) I can't wait.
718
00:29:45,200 --> 00:29:46,440
(Peter laughs)
719
00:29:46,440 --> 00:29:50,280
- Okay, I just gotta check it to. (gasps)
720
00:29:50,280 --> 00:29:53,600
(Peter moaning)
721
00:29:53,600 --> 00:29:55,480
- Oh, man, this is awesome.
722
00:29:57,280 --> 00:29:58,680
That's my piece.
723
00:30:02,360 --> 00:30:03,280
She's asked me if I want 'em,
said of course I want 'em.
724
00:30:03,280 --> 00:30:05,520
They're the best bits,
man, look at those guys,
725
00:30:05,520 --> 00:30:06,320
look at those guys, there.
726
00:30:06,320 --> 00:30:07,160
They're awesome.
727
00:30:07,160 --> 00:30:08,160
Look at that, it's comin' off.
728
00:30:08,160 --> 00:30:10,240
It just peels off.
729
00:30:10,240 --> 00:30:11,120
It just peels off.
730
00:30:13,960 --> 00:30:15,280
That is so nice.
731
00:30:17,120 --> 00:30:19,720
90% of what you eat
here is grown or raised
732
00:30:19,720 --> 00:30:22,320
by the owners of this fine establishment.
733
00:30:22,320 --> 00:30:25,840
The goats, chickens, vegetables, olives,
734
00:30:25,840 --> 00:30:29,400
and even the olive oil come
from the pens and fields
735
00:30:29,400 --> 00:30:31,040
surrounding the restaurant.
736
00:30:31,040 --> 00:30:32,360
It doesn't get any fresher.
737
00:30:32,360 --> 00:30:34,160
Waterfall walks, I love them, man.
738
00:30:35,000 --> 00:30:37,320
I love the waterfalls, they're the best.
739
00:30:39,000 --> 00:30:41,760
While there are over 28
goat recipes at the tavern,
740
00:30:41,760 --> 00:30:44,040
which is perfect for a carnivore like me,
741
00:30:44,040 --> 00:30:46,760
they also had a smorgasbord
of vegetarian dishes
742
00:30:46,760 --> 00:30:48,680
that more than satisfied Helen.
743
00:30:48,680 --> 00:30:50,760
The tastes, colours, textures,
744
00:30:50,760 --> 00:30:53,840
and aromas were something
I'd never experienced before.
745
00:30:53,840 --> 00:30:55,680
It was all washed down with a local wine
746
00:30:55,680 --> 00:30:58,560
amidst banter and laughs
that filled the air.
747
00:30:59,520 --> 00:31:01,960
(upbeat music)
(guests chattering)
748
00:31:01,960 --> 00:31:03,400
Oh, man, so good.
749
00:31:04,280 --> 00:31:06,760
The honey goat was my pick of the menu.
750
00:31:06,760 --> 00:31:08,600
Then again, I only managed to try
751
00:31:08,600 --> 00:31:10,880
a few of the numerous options available.
752
00:31:10,880 --> 00:31:14,520
There's another 20 or so goat
recipes left for me to taste.
753
00:31:14,520 --> 00:31:16,360
So I guess I'll have to come back.
754
00:31:16,360 --> 00:31:17,920
And I did.
755
00:31:17,920 --> 00:31:22,520
The honey, the honey, the honey.
756
00:31:22,520 --> 00:31:23,360
Yeah, you can.
757
00:31:23,360 --> 00:31:25,080
The honey, the honey,
the honey, the honey.
758
00:31:26,160 --> 00:31:29,680
(traditional Greek music)
759
00:31:31,120 --> 00:31:35,600
(Giorgas singing in foreign language)
760
00:31:36,760 --> 00:31:40,120
Fantastic food and wonderful
company to share it with.
761
00:31:40,120 --> 00:31:42,480
There are few better ways to end a day.
762
00:31:42,480 --> 00:31:45,360
Completing the picture of
an authentic Greek dinner,
763
00:31:45,360 --> 00:31:47,280
Giorgos serenaded us.
764
00:31:47,280 --> 00:31:49,440
The sounds of bouzouki and singing
765
00:31:49,440 --> 00:31:51,280
took me back to my childhood,
766
00:31:51,280 --> 00:31:53,000
visiting Greece with my parents,
767
00:31:53,000 --> 00:31:54,880
or celebrating special occasions.
768
00:31:57,320 --> 00:31:58,880
It's a perfect setting,
769
00:31:58,880 --> 00:32:01,800
and the whole experience
reinforced why I'm doing this.
770
00:32:01,800 --> 00:32:04,360
Sharing these intimate
experiences with my family,
771
00:32:04,360 --> 00:32:08,120
and giving my son the type of
cultural influences I too had,
772
00:32:08,120 --> 00:32:10,440
fills me with pride and joy.
773
00:32:10,440 --> 00:32:13,640
I coulda sat there all night,
gorging myself on goat,
774
00:32:13,640 --> 00:32:15,560
chatting, singing and dancing,
775
00:32:15,560 --> 00:32:17,720
but I had an early
start the following day.
776
00:32:21,520 --> 00:32:23,240
(wind rustling)
777
00:32:23,240 --> 00:32:25,120
On my final morning in Samothrace,
778
00:32:25,120 --> 00:32:27,080
I sat gazing at Mount Saos,
779
00:32:27,080 --> 00:32:28,560
thinking of all those who would have done
780
00:32:28,560 --> 00:32:29,720
the same before me.
781
00:32:29,720 --> 00:32:30,960
For thousands of years,
782
00:32:30,960 --> 00:32:33,600
others, too, would have
marvelled at nature's creation.
783
00:32:33,600 --> 00:32:34,640
And to this day,
784
00:32:34,640 --> 00:32:36,880
very little in this
scene would have changed.
785
00:32:37,920 --> 00:32:42,920
If you like lots of
beaches, five-star hotels,
786
00:32:43,360 --> 00:32:46,200
all those commercial stores,
787
00:32:46,200 --> 00:32:49,840
Samothraki is not the place to come to.
788
00:32:49,840 --> 00:32:54,480
But if you like adventure,
and you like to walk and hike,
789
00:32:54,480 --> 00:32:57,200
and you wanna see people
in their raw state,
790
00:32:57,200 --> 00:33:00,720
and their food is absolutely awesome here.
791
00:33:00,720 --> 00:33:02,640
It's not just organic,
792
00:33:02,640 --> 00:33:07,520
but you feel like you've
gone back 150 years.
793
00:33:07,520 --> 00:33:08,800
This is the place to come.
794
00:33:09,720 --> 00:33:12,040
I will definitely come back to Samothraki.
795
00:33:12,040 --> 00:33:13,320
It's not for everybody.
796
00:33:14,480 --> 00:33:17,040
I don't know if it's for you,
but it's definitely for me.
797
00:33:18,440 --> 00:33:23,440
(gentle music)
(waves crashing)
798
00:33:24,280 --> 00:33:26,680
From a small, almost unknown island,
799
00:33:26,680 --> 00:33:28,800
we travelled around 50 kilometres south
800
00:33:28,800 --> 00:33:32,160
to a large well-established one, Lemnos.
801
00:33:32,160 --> 00:33:34,320
Our first stop was the
northern end of the island,
802
00:33:34,320 --> 00:33:35,960
at the bay of Kotsinas.
803
00:33:35,960 --> 00:33:38,480
It's a quiet anchorage
with a small fishing fleet
804
00:33:38,480 --> 00:33:40,160
and barely a soul in sight.
805
00:33:41,280 --> 00:33:43,360
You can immediately see a stark difference
806
00:33:43,360 --> 00:33:45,360
between this place and Samothrace.
807
00:33:45,360 --> 00:33:48,320
The towering Mount Saos had
been replaced by a much flatter
808
00:33:48,320 --> 00:33:50,520
terrain dominated by farm land,
809
00:33:50,520 --> 00:33:53,040
and where one island
was famed for its goats,
810
00:33:53,040 --> 00:33:54,720
this one is known for
the grain that's grown
811
00:33:54,720 --> 00:33:56,600
in the fertile soil.
812
00:33:56,600 --> 00:33:58,560
There's also plenty of other
things that make Lemnos
813
00:33:58,560 --> 00:33:59,840
a great place to visit,
814
00:33:59,840 --> 00:34:02,480
and I've got the best part
of a week to unearth them.
815
00:34:04,280 --> 00:34:07,240
Overlooking the bay is a
church named Zoodochos Pigi.
816
00:34:07,240 --> 00:34:10,000
It was built in the 1950s
where a fortress once stood,
817
00:34:10,000 --> 00:34:12,600
and later, I'll show you
something special below it.
818
00:34:14,840 --> 00:34:18,040
They call this the windy
island, and I like that,
819
00:34:18,040 --> 00:34:20,080
because during the heat of summer,
820
00:34:20,080 --> 00:34:22,640
there's always a breeze to keep you cool.
821
00:34:22,640 --> 00:34:26,760
We've just travelled 30
miles south from Samothraki,
822
00:34:26,760 --> 00:34:30,200
all the way to Kotsinas in Lemnos.
823
00:34:30,200 --> 00:34:33,520
Lemnos has a large military presence.
824
00:34:33,520 --> 00:34:35,760
As a result, tourism has slowed down,
825
00:34:35,760 --> 00:34:38,520
but I think that's why it's
kept its old world charm.
826
00:34:38,520 --> 00:34:40,120
It's primarily volcanic,
827
00:34:40,120 --> 00:34:43,320
and has one of the oldest
cities in all of Europe.
828
00:34:43,320 --> 00:34:45,280
They also say that when
you come to Lemnos,
829
00:34:45,280 --> 00:34:46,440
you cry twice.
830
00:34:46,440 --> 00:34:49,720
Once when you arrive,
and once when you leave.
831
00:34:49,720 --> 00:34:51,960
Now, I've been here for about an hour,
832
00:34:51,960 --> 00:34:54,760
and I've been told some
stories that may get me there.
833
00:34:57,920 --> 00:35:00,880
This town, population of only 10 people,
834
00:35:01,880 --> 00:35:04,080
so it doesn't take long
to hear the stories.
835
00:35:05,280 --> 00:35:08,960
This statue of an 18-year-old girl, 1478.
836
00:35:08,960 --> 00:35:12,760
Her father, a General, defending
this bay from the Turks,
837
00:35:13,600 --> 00:35:15,200
was killed with a sword.
838
00:35:16,200 --> 00:35:20,400
She held him in her arms,
pulled the sword out,
839
00:35:20,400 --> 00:35:22,600
and then went and attacked the Turks.
840
00:35:22,600 --> 00:35:25,360
She inspired the villagers around her.
841
00:35:25,360 --> 00:35:28,920
They ended up defeating the Turks.
842
00:35:28,920 --> 00:35:30,960
Now, if that doesn't
bring a tear to your eye,
843
00:35:30,960 --> 00:35:32,120
I don't know what will.
844
00:35:33,360 --> 00:35:35,920
(gentle music)
845
00:35:37,240 --> 00:35:40,160
In no way am I trying
to demonise the Turks.
846
00:35:40,160 --> 00:35:41,800
Those were different times,
847
00:35:41,800 --> 00:35:44,880
and we now talk of
forgiveness as we move forward
848
00:35:44,880 --> 00:35:46,600
in a more peaceful world.
849
00:35:46,600 --> 00:35:49,480
However, while most of Greece
is free from the impacts
850
00:35:49,480 --> 00:35:51,840
of our neighbour to the
East, here in Lemnos,
851
00:35:51,840 --> 00:35:53,880
there are constant
reminders of the tension
852
00:35:53,880 --> 00:35:56,360
that still exist between the two nations.
853
00:35:56,360 --> 00:35:58,800
This in part is the reason
why stories like this
854
00:35:58,800 --> 00:36:02,280
are still relevant to
the people of the island.
855
00:36:04,440 --> 00:36:09,120
And this gonna be not easy
because not only do I suffer
856
00:36:09,120 --> 00:36:14,040
from heights, but I also
suffer from closed spaces.
857
00:36:15,280 --> 00:36:18,200
(tranquil music)
858
00:36:18,200 --> 00:36:19,720
I'm glad they turned the lights on.
859
00:36:19,720 --> 00:36:22,160
Deep in the bowels of that
church I mentioned earlier
860
00:36:22,160 --> 00:36:23,000
is a well.
861
00:36:23,000 --> 00:36:25,440
Locals visit it to drink the Holy Water.
862
00:36:25,440 --> 00:36:27,080
I feel like the whole
place gonna fall in on me.
863
00:36:30,880 --> 00:36:33,960
This is all that remains of
the 13th century fortress
864
00:36:33,960 --> 00:36:35,440
that once stood here.
865
00:36:37,960 --> 00:36:41,280
(water pail clattering)
866
00:36:44,400 --> 00:36:47,120
(Peter slurping)
867
00:36:48,000 --> 00:36:49,960
It's quite sweet.
868
00:36:49,960 --> 00:36:51,880
Hope I've been blessed.
869
00:36:51,880 --> 00:36:54,640
(Peter slurping)
870
00:36:56,240 --> 00:36:59,720
Well I've done my good deed for the day.
871
00:36:59,720 --> 00:37:00,600
Better put it back
872
00:37:02,520 --> 00:37:04,360
(pail clattering)
873
00:37:04,360 --> 00:37:05,160
and get out of here.
874
00:37:05,160 --> 00:37:07,920
'Cause I feel like they
all could close in on me.
875
00:37:07,920 --> 00:37:09,600
Let's go, go, go, come,
come, come, you go.
876
00:37:09,600 --> 00:37:10,400
Let's go.
877
00:37:24,000 --> 00:37:26,560
(upbeat music)
878
00:37:35,040 --> 00:37:37,800
(cheerful music)
879
00:37:40,360 --> 00:37:44,240
This morning we got up
early and left Kotsinas,
880
00:37:44,240 --> 00:37:46,840
heading north east to
come around to Myrina.
881
00:37:46,840 --> 00:37:50,400
But we saw this beautiful
beach, Gomati Beach,
882
00:37:50,400 --> 00:37:52,040
and we just had to stop here.
883
00:37:52,040 --> 00:37:54,600
In actual fact, there's
a lot of sea life here.
884
00:37:54,600 --> 00:37:57,800
As we pulled the anchor up, we
got a lobster on the anchor,
885
00:37:57,800 --> 00:38:00,240
it was absolutely magnificent.
886
00:38:00,240 --> 00:38:01,560
I'll tell ya, I wanna stay here,
887
00:38:01,560 --> 00:38:04,040
but we're really busy
and we gotta move on.
888
00:38:04,040 --> 00:38:05,920
Look it, it's beautiful.
889
00:38:10,120 --> 00:38:12,320
These unexpected discoveries are often
890
00:38:12,320 --> 00:38:13,720
highlights of a journey.
891
00:38:13,720 --> 00:38:16,360
But here in Greece, they
occur all too frequently.
892
00:38:16,360 --> 00:38:18,960
Around every corner, there's
something to explore,
893
00:38:18,960 --> 00:38:21,200
which leads to the schedule
going out the window,
894
00:38:21,200 --> 00:38:22,520
and the crew in a panic.
895
00:38:22,520 --> 00:38:24,160
However, it's generally worth it,
896
00:38:24,160 --> 00:38:26,640
because what you unearth
can be incredibly memorable,
897
00:38:26,640 --> 00:38:29,160
and totally change your
perception of a place.
898
00:38:29,160 --> 00:38:31,560
Take these old fortifications for example.
899
00:38:31,560 --> 00:38:33,440
They're remnants from the 1970s,
900
00:38:33,440 --> 00:38:37,160
when tensions between Greece
and Turkey were at their peak.
901
00:38:37,160 --> 00:38:38,440
They were built around the coast line
902
00:38:38,440 --> 00:38:40,120
out of fear of invasion,
903
00:38:40,120 --> 00:38:42,480
and eventually abandoned
when the conflict subsided.
904
00:38:42,480 --> 00:38:45,560
They're a powerful contrasts
to the peace and serenity
905
00:38:45,560 --> 00:38:47,160
of the landscape that surrounds.
906
00:38:52,440 --> 00:38:54,880
A short distance from the
beach and military ruins
907
00:38:54,880 --> 00:38:56,360
was another awesome site,
908
00:38:56,360 --> 00:38:58,040
only this one, I knew about.
909
00:38:58,040 --> 00:38:59,320
The sand dunes in Gomati,
910
00:38:59,320 --> 00:39:00,640
known as Pachies Ammoudies,
911
00:39:00,640 --> 00:39:03,160
cover an expanse of about 14 acres.
912
00:39:03,160 --> 00:39:06,080
Yeah, they're not quite
as grand as the Sahara,
913
00:39:06,080 --> 00:39:08,480
but I'm told still the
largest desert in Europe.
914
00:39:16,520 --> 00:39:20,800
Can't believe this,
sand dunes in the middle
915
00:39:20,800 --> 00:39:23,520
of the beautiful blue Greek Islands.
916
00:39:24,480 --> 00:39:26,560
Now, if I didn't film this,
917
00:39:26,560 --> 00:39:29,200
no one would believe me.
918
00:39:29,200 --> 00:39:31,600
Check it out, it's unbelievable!
919
00:39:33,120 --> 00:39:37,080
And here I was, gonna spend
the morning on the beach,
920
00:39:37,080 --> 00:39:38,280
this is awesome.
921
00:39:39,160 --> 00:39:40,960
Didn't have to travel far either.
922
00:39:40,960 --> 00:39:43,840
Down in Australia, you gotta
travel 1,000 kilometres
923
00:39:43,840 --> 00:39:44,920
to get this stuff.
924
00:39:47,120 --> 00:39:51,960
What's fantastic is
that the sand gets finer
925
00:39:51,960 --> 00:39:53,320
as you get further inland.
926
00:39:54,280 --> 00:39:56,520
What's even more amazing is
there's people over there.
927
00:39:56,520 --> 00:39:58,520
People walking through this.
928
00:39:58,520 --> 00:39:59,480
There's a beach back there,
929
00:39:59,480 --> 00:40:02,360
and they're walking through
this, can you believe it?
930
00:40:02,360 --> 00:40:03,720
It's a unique environment,
931
00:40:03,720 --> 00:40:06,800
and one that's not lost on
tourists and filmmakers alike.
932
00:40:06,800 --> 00:40:09,800
It's often used as a movie
location and for fashion shoots,
933
00:40:09,800 --> 00:40:12,440
or in the present day,
for Instagram photos.
934
00:40:12,440 --> 00:40:14,680
The cool weather made
for a comfortable stroll
935
00:40:14,680 --> 00:40:15,800
around the dunes.
936
00:40:15,800 --> 00:40:16,960
In the depths of summer,
937
00:40:16,960 --> 00:40:18,560
it would be scorching out here,
938
00:40:18,560 --> 00:40:21,640
with temperatures reaching
well in excess of 30 degrees.
939
00:40:21,640 --> 00:40:24,040
The winds that constantly
shape this mini desert
940
00:40:24,040 --> 00:40:25,680
also drain it of moisture,
941
00:40:25,680 --> 00:40:28,200
leaving a parched and desolate surface.
942
00:40:28,200 --> 00:40:29,920
It's quite a sight to behold,
943
00:40:29,920 --> 00:40:32,240
and a dramatic difference
to the blue sea water,
944
00:40:32,240 --> 00:40:34,520
and rolling green hills in the distance.
945
00:40:40,440 --> 00:40:42,400
Walking through this
unusual landscape felt like
946
00:40:42,400 --> 00:40:44,400
I was in a foreign country.
947
00:40:44,400 --> 00:40:47,040
I thought Samothrace had
diverse micro climates,
948
00:40:47,040 --> 00:40:48,400
however, one day in Lemnos,
949
00:40:48,400 --> 00:40:50,200
and I knew that I was commencing a journey
950
00:40:50,200 --> 00:40:52,440
into a geographical kaleidoscope,
951
00:40:52,440 --> 00:40:56,320
from beaches and mountains, to
desert and fertile farmland.
952
00:40:56,320 --> 00:40:58,720
A vast array of environment
shapes this island.
953
00:40:59,720 --> 00:41:02,640
(tractor rumbling)
954
00:41:05,760 --> 00:41:08,920
Samothraki is just over
the horizon, not far away.
955
00:41:08,920 --> 00:41:11,680
The big mountainous, beautiful island.
956
00:41:11,680 --> 00:41:14,320
Lemnos is also volcanic,
957
00:41:14,320 --> 00:41:16,000
but it has its own personality,
958
00:41:16,000 --> 00:41:17,880
just like most Greek Islands.
959
00:41:17,880 --> 00:41:21,720
These beautiful rolling hills, the greens,
960
00:41:21,720 --> 00:41:26,720
the yellows, the reds, it's
absolutely magnificent.
961
00:41:27,360 --> 00:41:30,360
Here is the heart of her personality.
962
00:41:32,600 --> 00:41:34,480
Two things that Samothrace
has in abundance
963
00:41:34,480 --> 00:41:35,640
and Lemnos lacks,
964
00:41:35,640 --> 00:41:37,640
are rainforests and olive trees.
965
00:41:37,640 --> 00:41:40,400
In their place is
fertile farmland covering
966
00:41:40,400 --> 00:41:42,880
almost all the arable space available.
967
00:41:42,880 --> 00:41:45,760
From coast to coast, across
the rolling hills and plains,
968
00:41:45,760 --> 00:41:47,880
are fields of brown, green, and gold.
969
00:41:47,880 --> 00:41:49,560
Crops of every type.
970
00:41:49,560 --> 00:41:51,120
The harvest feeds the people of Lemnos
971
00:41:51,120 --> 00:41:53,960
and the surrounding
islands with every season
972
00:41:53,960 --> 00:41:55,960
bringing with it different produce.
973
00:41:55,960 --> 00:41:58,200
This has been the case for many centuries.
974
00:41:58,200 --> 00:42:00,560
It's said to have been the
grainery of the Byzantines.
975
00:42:00,560 --> 00:42:02,960
Here they grew wheat,
rye, and other grains,
976
00:42:02,960 --> 00:42:04,640
that were shipped around the Empire.
977
00:42:04,640 --> 00:42:07,040
Little has changed in
this regard, even today.
978
00:42:07,040 --> 00:42:09,480
This long, agricultural
heritage has shaped
979
00:42:09,480 --> 00:42:11,880
the island's culture and provided income
980
00:42:11,880 --> 00:42:13,960
and identity for its inhabitants.
981
00:42:13,960 --> 00:42:16,800
It's this character and uniqueness
that I'll be delving into
982
00:42:16,800 --> 00:42:17,840
over the coming days.
983
00:42:20,000 --> 00:42:22,360
The contrasts of Greece
aren't often showcased.
984
00:42:22,360 --> 00:42:24,600
Most people know it as a land of beaches,
985
00:42:24,600 --> 00:42:27,160
churches, and white walled houses.
986
00:42:27,160 --> 00:42:29,080
They come here to party in Mikonos,
987
00:42:29,080 --> 00:42:31,080
drink cocktails in Santorini,
988
00:42:31,080 --> 00:42:33,480
or work through the
ruins of the acropolis.
989
00:42:33,480 --> 00:42:34,960
That's all good and well,
990
00:42:34,960 --> 00:42:37,640
but it's these far away,
lesser known islands,
991
00:42:37,640 --> 00:42:39,360
that are the Greece of old.
992
00:42:39,360 --> 00:42:42,400
This is where you can do all
of that and so much more.
993
00:42:42,400 --> 00:42:44,840
And what's even better
is the quiet setting
994
00:42:44,840 --> 00:42:46,400
you can enjoy it all in.
995
00:42:46,400 --> 00:42:48,360
Mind you, I have to
admit, that on occasion,
996
00:42:48,360 --> 00:42:50,160
I do like a bit of action.
997
00:42:50,160 --> 00:42:52,840
As interesting as the history
and cooking lessons are,
998
00:42:52,840 --> 00:42:55,120
I still like to get the
heart-rate up on occasion.
999
00:42:55,120 --> 00:42:57,160
In those instances, we
drag out the weight board
1000
00:42:57,160 --> 00:42:59,520
for a bit of fun behind the tender.
1001
00:42:59,520 --> 00:43:00,680
Speaking of fun,
1002
00:43:00,680 --> 00:43:03,760
next instalment features a
whole lot more of exactly that
1003
00:43:03,760 --> 00:43:06,400
as I continue making my way around Lemnos.
1004
00:43:06,400 --> 00:43:08,440
I'll be going from the new town of Myrina,
1005
00:43:08,440 --> 00:43:10,120
with its towering castle,
1006
00:43:10,120 --> 00:43:12,360
to one of the oldest
settlements in Europe.
1007
00:43:12,360 --> 00:43:13,800
Through those experiences,
1008
00:43:13,800 --> 00:43:14,640
I'll tell you the story
1009
00:43:14,640 --> 00:43:16,880
that surrounds 7,000 years of history,
1010
00:43:16,880 --> 00:43:19,000
plus I'll be tasting the local cuisine,
1011
00:43:19,000 --> 00:43:21,800
and meeting the people that
call this paradise, home.
1012
00:43:21,800 --> 00:43:24,000
Some of the locals I'll
introduce you to lead lives
1013
00:43:24,000 --> 00:43:25,600
a little more thrilling than others,
1014
00:43:25,600 --> 00:43:27,480
but the common thread between them all,
1015
00:43:27,480 --> 00:43:29,840
is their passion for their life in Lemnos.
1016
00:43:29,840 --> 00:43:32,680
It's not hard to see why
they're so fond of the place.
1017
00:43:32,680 --> 00:43:35,320
Hopefully, once I've shown
you a little more of it,
1018
00:43:35,320 --> 00:43:37,640
you, too, might feel the same.
1019
00:43:37,640 --> 00:43:40,200
(upbeat music)
1020
00:44:01,280 --> 00:44:04,200
(flames whooshing)
76593
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