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(lively music)
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- From the bustling streets of Athens
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and the historic port of Hydra,
to the beaches of Zakinthos
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00:00:27,130 --> 00:00:29,380
and the villages of Kythira, our journey
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00:00:29,380 --> 00:00:32,220
over the coming weeks spans
many of the Ionian islands,
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00:00:32,220 --> 00:00:35,300
some well-known, others
that few ever get to visit.
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But before heading off, you probably want
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to know a little bit about me.
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My story starts as boy growing up
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in the inner suburbs of Sydney.
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Like a lot of Greeks early last century,
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my parents moved overseas to
find a better life abroad.
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They arrived with very little
and worked extremely hard
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to give my sisters and
I a loving upbringing.
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They also made me believe that
if I too worked hard enough,
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I could achieve anything.
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54 years later, I've built
a successful business.
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00:00:56,940 --> 00:00:59,537
And that has enabled me to do
things I once only dreamed of.
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One of those dreams was to step foot
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00:01:01,440 --> 00:01:04,780
on all 227 inhabited Greek Islands,
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and I'm going to take
a big chunk out of that
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in this first series.
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We've travelled from Athens
to Epidavros, Hydra, Spetses,
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Nafplio and Monemvasia, with plenty
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of stops throughout the journey.
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It's been an incredible
adventure with surprises
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around every corner, not to mention,
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the countless wonderful people
we've met along the way.
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We've delved into the history,
culture and food of Greece,
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unearthing many gems
during our exploration.
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Both above and below the water,
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there have been fascinating
things to discover,
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including wildlife and
ancient archaeology.
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In this episode, I'm digging
deeper into my family history,
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as I explore more of Kythira.
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My parents moved from here to Australia,
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however I have a tangible
connection to the place
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that I can't ignore.
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It now feels like a second home,
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but I'm still far from
being considered a local.
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Every time I return, I discover
new and fascinating things,
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and the places I've seen before
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have usually evolved a little.
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So no matter how familiar
I am with Kythira,
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there are always a few surprises.
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Heading inland from the
beautiful port of Diakofti,
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you get a sense of what
Kythira is all about.
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There are no traffic
lights or roundabouts.
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It feels like time has stood
still for the last 50 years.
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On the road you only have to
contend with a goat or two.
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You know, the traffic
is bad enough in Kythira
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even though it's a small island,
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but these goats don't make
it much easier, do they?
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Look at this.
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They own the joint, so we
have got to let them through.
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Off you go.
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Off you go.
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Off you go.
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He's checking you out, you wanna look?
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Oh, oh, he's looking
at me with those horns.
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Greeks are well-known
for loving their goats.
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Some more than others.
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It's a bit like cows in India.
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But the only difference
is, we drink their milk,
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and eat the meat.
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Off you go, off you go.
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(bells ringing)
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Sorry about the traffic.
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You know, my cousin owns these goats.
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I have got to talk to him
about doing this a bit better,
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because, you know, summer,
people want to get to the beach.
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Look at what he's doing to it.
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My cousin and his family
regularly come out here
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to tend to their herd.
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They don't use these goats
for any sort of trade.
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They're basically used to
put a stamp on their land.
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You know the saying "Possession
is nine tenths of the law."
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Well, a herd of goats is
essentially a Greek title deed.
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- Okay, Peter, so this is the church.
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This is Agios Haralambos
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and this is the town of Gerakitianika.
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(he mumbles)
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- This is the tiny
village of Gerakitianika.
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It's where my family
came from, and, in fact,
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it was our family name up
until the 19th century.
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There were so many people
with the surname Gerakitis,
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that nicknames were given out.
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Ours was Maneas, which
we ended up adopting.
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Two turns.
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- [Kalie] Yes, two turns.
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And let me--
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- [Peter] Kalie is a close family friend.
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We grew up together, living
only a few suburbs apart.
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She's spent many years studying Kythira,
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specifically its family genealogies,
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and Kythira's peculiar history.
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This current journey to
Kythira began 12 months ago,
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when I asked Kalie to
research my family genealogy.
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Here, back in Sydney,
she painstakingly went
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through all the records,
back to the 15th century.
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That's 600 years of paperwork.
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- Is that your five
times great-grandfather,
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Thodoro Gerachiti, was the person
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who built the church Agios
Haralambos in Gerakitianika.
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- How many generations back is that?
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- Seven.
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From yourself, five.
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- Seven.
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- Seven, sorry, seven.
- Seven, seven.
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There's so many generations, yeah.
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- Seven.
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Seven generations back.
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- So when did he build the church?
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- Well, from personal information
that was provided to us
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from your family, it indicates
that he built it around 1767.
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So the first time we
are finding that church
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in the Venetian censuses,
which relates to that,
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is in the 1772 census.
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And you can see here, it mentions
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(speaks in foreign
language) Yeracityanika.
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And there's your family there.
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So that's Thodoro, this
person here, with his wife.
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He's the son of Manoli,
so that was his father,
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and with his creatures,
his wife, and his children.
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- And what's amazing is that church
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after 400 years is still standing.
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So my
great-great-great-great-great-great-great-grandfather
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was a builder, and that
building is still standing.
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My clients should know that.
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This research that Kalie
and others undertook
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didn't only involve reading Greek,
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Venetian and Ottoman records,
but the interpretation
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of various languages, and
the peculiar calligraphies.
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Many of these records were
in very poor condition
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and are currently being digitised.
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Amazingly, Kythira and Corfu
are the only two Greek Islands
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that have records dating
back to the 14th century,
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so we're incredibly lucky to be able
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to map my family history
to such an early time.
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You know, I think, you
know, this is 300 years old,
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and what my grandfather would,
great-great-great-grandfather
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would have had to go through to build this
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and get someone to do all
of this work 300 years ago,
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it's impressive that it is
still standing, you know.
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- [Kalie] And impressive that
we can still see the frescos.
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- The legend that my father
tells me is that Thodoros,
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my
great-great-great-great-great-grandfather
built this
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because he went to a
church just further down
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from Gerakitianika, and Gerakitianika
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is only 100 metres long,
and they asked him to leave
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because he wasn't from
that part of the town.
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- Oh, Gee whiz!
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- So he was offended and, as a
result, he built this church.
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- Wow!
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- And it's still standing today, so--
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- There you go...
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Determination!
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Reminds me of you.
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(he chuckles)
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- It's um...
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Well, it's the oldest thing
that really links to me
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at the moment and it has
a special spot right here.
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Wow.
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As people living on this
earth, our time is short.
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We come and go and in many
instances are soon forgotten.
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But when I touch these walls,
like a distant relative
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of mine once did, it
gives me a sense of pride.
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It's something tangible I can hold on to,
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that can't be taken away from me.
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This is his legacy, and
keeps his memory alive.
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What you have done for
me with the genealogy
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and coming in here and
getting accurate dates
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on when this was built, it's
really all connected now.
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You know, I feel...
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I feel like there is a bit
more depth in my history now.
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Thank you very much, darling.
- You're welcome.
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- Thank you.
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Thank you very much.
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- No worries.
- We better go, eh?
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- Yeah, let's go.
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Oh, the lights.
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- Yep.
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And we better take the
key back to the priest.
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- Yes, that's right.
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(gentle instrumental music)
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(lively music)
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- A short drive from my family's village
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is the town of Potamos.
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It's the biggest settlement on the island
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and acts as the business centre.
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It sits in the middle of Kythira
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and is essentially the main tourist hub.
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Looking at the place now, you
would think it's a busy town.
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But that's only during the summer months.
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In winter, there's only
around 4,000 people living
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on this entire island, but
when the weather warms up,
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the population swells to over 20,000.
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The architecture in Potamos
has changed very little
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since I first visited 44 years ago.
200
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The main difference is
the amount of visitors.
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Many of those that come here are Greek,
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and have summer homes on the island.
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Now, if you're of Kytherian descent,
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everywhere you go in Kythira
there will be a person,
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00:09:02,730 --> 00:09:05,362
shop or something that connects you.
206
00:09:05,362 --> 00:09:08,220
This is my second cousin's
shop, let's go inside.
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00:09:08,220 --> 00:09:09,990
This is the general store that has stayed
208
00:09:09,990 --> 00:09:12,950
in this family since 1945.
209
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If my parents hadn't
emigrate to Australia,
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I'd probably be running
a similar establishment,
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or herding goats.
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It's strange how things work out.
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This is an awesome store.
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It hasn't changed in 40 years.
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00:09:23,860 --> 00:09:25,727
You can buy everything in here.
216
00:09:25,727 --> 00:09:30,727
(lively instrumental music)
(people murmuring)
217
00:09:31,231 --> 00:09:33,349
I feel like I am...
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00:09:33,349 --> 00:09:36,266
I don't know, stuck in a time warp.
219
00:09:37,240 --> 00:09:39,270
This shop is awesome.
220
00:09:39,270 --> 00:09:41,270
If you can't find what you need here,
221
00:09:41,270 --> 00:09:43,810
then you won't find it
anywhere on the island.
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A short stroll away in a side street
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00:09:45,830 --> 00:09:47,920
I came across another cousin's store.
224
00:09:47,920 --> 00:09:50,620
Unfortunately, though, it
hadn't survived the century.
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00:09:51,730 --> 00:09:55,130
I walk around Potamos, I see my cousins,
226
00:09:55,130 --> 00:09:58,080
I see shops from my cousins,
227
00:09:58,080 --> 00:10:03,080
and here's a shop that brings
back really special memories.
228
00:10:03,260 --> 00:10:06,223
But like I have aged, it has aged as well.
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00:10:07,390 --> 00:10:09,950
It's now derelict.
230
00:10:09,950 --> 00:10:14,610
This shop only opened on
Sundays with big pots of goat,
231
00:10:14,610 --> 00:10:17,900
and beef, and lamb.
232
00:10:17,900 --> 00:10:18,850
And people would line up here.
233
00:10:18,850 --> 00:10:22,980
It was the only shop here
that sold food on a Sunday.
234
00:10:22,980 --> 00:10:24,003
Only on a Sunday.
235
00:10:25,090 --> 00:10:27,420
The food was fantastic.
236
00:10:27,420 --> 00:10:28,897
But it's gone now, and...
237
00:10:34,330 --> 00:10:37,450
Time has a way of taking
things away from you.
238
00:10:37,450 --> 00:10:40,143
This place was simple, yet wholesome.
239
00:10:40,980 --> 00:10:42,740
I got a bit emotional
because it holds a lot
240
00:10:42,740 --> 00:10:44,510
of fond memories for me,
241
00:10:44,510 --> 00:10:46,760
and it's something I'll
never get back again.
242
00:10:48,768 --> 00:10:51,601
Now they're using it as a carpark.
243
00:11:00,760 --> 00:11:02,830
The fabric of society
is founded on history.
244
00:11:02,830 --> 00:11:05,370
The important people that came before us,
245
00:11:05,370 --> 00:11:07,500
and significant moments in time,
246
00:11:07,500 --> 00:11:10,900
each laid the foundations for
the world we live in today.
247
00:11:10,900 --> 00:11:13,770
In this case, I was lucky
enough to witness the unveiling
248
00:11:13,770 --> 00:11:16,520
of a plaque that commemorates
Australian soldiers born
249
00:11:16,520 --> 00:11:19,910
in Kythira that fought for
Australia in the world wars.
250
00:11:19,910 --> 00:11:22,130
Setting in stone, such powerful,
251
00:11:22,130 --> 00:11:26,230
and sometimes painful memories,
is an important thing to do.
252
00:11:26,230 --> 00:11:29,210
It reminds us of the
sacrifices others have made,
253
00:11:29,210 --> 00:11:30,893
and of the mistakes of the past.
254
00:11:31,817 --> 00:11:34,267
Through the perseverance of
people like Nick Andriotakis,
255
00:11:34,267 --> 00:11:37,800
who gives his time to
research and uphold history,
256
00:11:37,800 --> 00:11:39,030
future generations will be able
257
00:11:39,030 --> 00:11:40,697
to better understand their past,
258
00:11:40,697 --> 00:11:44,169
and, hopefully, be thankful
for what they have.
259
00:11:44,169 --> 00:11:46,499
- And for that he was awarded
the British Empire medal.
260
00:11:46,499 --> 00:11:48,430
And I think that is something
that should be known.
261
00:11:48,430 --> 00:11:53,150
And also, the 200 Australians
of Kytherian heritage,
262
00:11:53,150 --> 00:11:57,053
who have served Australia in
Gallipoli, in Western France,
263
00:11:57,980 --> 00:12:02,263
in Greece, through the Pacific,
and all the major conflicts.
264
00:12:03,300 --> 00:12:04,540
- [Peter] Watching these young people
265
00:12:04,540 --> 00:12:05,840
at the front of the crowd,
266
00:12:05,840 --> 00:12:09,330
confirmed to me that Nick's
efforts are not in vain,
267
00:12:09,330 --> 00:12:11,140
and I was proud to see that this record
268
00:12:11,140 --> 00:12:13,170
of history was being undertaken
269
00:12:13,170 --> 00:12:16,198
on my tiny little island of Kythira.
270
00:12:16,198 --> 00:12:20,650
(lively instrumental music)
271
00:12:20,650 --> 00:12:24,000
We left Diakofti for the
fishing village of Avlemonas.
272
00:12:24,000 --> 00:12:25,943
Once again, I have a number
of cousins that live here.
273
00:12:25,943 --> 00:12:28,450
Through the centuries
we've sewn our seeds all
274
00:12:28,450 --> 00:12:30,443
around the area, and there
aren't too many places
275
00:12:30,443 --> 00:12:32,420
I don't have a relative.
276
00:12:32,420 --> 00:12:35,610
Don't worry though, like
me, they find husbands
277
00:12:35,610 --> 00:12:37,907
and wives from outside the island.
278
00:12:40,383 --> 00:12:43,210
What I love about Avlemonas
are the secluded coves
279
00:12:43,210 --> 00:12:45,350
with their beautiful swimming holes.
280
00:12:45,350 --> 00:12:47,080
It's not a place many tourists know about.
281
00:12:47,080 --> 00:12:49,600
The folks you find here are either locals,
282
00:12:49,600 --> 00:12:52,650
descendants of locals, or
Greeks that have met a local
283
00:12:52,650 --> 00:12:54,837
and were told about
how great a spot it is.
284
00:12:54,837 --> 00:12:58,504
(lively instrumental music)
285
00:13:01,320 --> 00:13:03,410
Right now it's the height
of the tourist season,
286
00:13:03,410 --> 00:13:05,210
and yet you can easily find a beach
287
00:13:05,210 --> 00:13:07,443
or alcove all for yourself.
288
00:13:07,443 --> 00:13:10,570
Even if there are one or
two others splashing around,
289
00:13:10,570 --> 00:13:13,340
everyone is really
welcoming and happy to chat.
290
00:13:13,340 --> 00:13:14,860
It's well worth befriending a local,
291
00:13:14,860 --> 00:13:15,960
that way you'll get the inside info
292
00:13:15,960 --> 00:13:17,510
on the best spots to check out.
293
00:13:20,875 --> 00:13:22,320
(splashing)
294
00:13:22,320 --> 00:13:24,650
Then there's the nearby taverns and cafes,
295
00:13:24,650 --> 00:13:25,970
where there's always an empty table
296
00:13:25,970 --> 00:13:28,870
where you can while away the
afternoon, sipping a coffee,
297
00:13:28,870 --> 00:13:31,420
eating fresh seafood, and
watching the world go by.
298
00:13:32,520 --> 00:13:34,810
Then, once your food has settled,
299
00:13:34,810 --> 00:13:38,306
it's back into the water to
cool off before the next meal.
300
00:13:38,306 --> 00:13:39,510
(splashing)
301
00:13:39,510 --> 00:13:40,543
Man, I love Greece!
302
00:13:41,500 --> 00:13:43,440
Now, I'm all for a relaxing swim,
303
00:13:43,440 --> 00:13:45,380
but sometimes I like to
get the heart rate up
304
00:13:45,380 --> 00:13:46,740
and do things a little more exciting.
305
00:13:46,740 --> 00:13:48,397
I'm going to go out to the right.
306
00:13:48,397 --> 00:13:49,230
(man mumbles)
307
00:13:49,230 --> 00:13:50,940
You know what, it's
taking me out to the left,
308
00:13:50,940 --> 00:13:52,303
I'm going to go out to the left.
309
00:13:53,780 --> 00:13:56,260
Wake surfing behind big
motor yachts has become a bit
310
00:13:56,260 --> 00:13:59,150
of a sport, but that's
way too dangerous for me.
311
00:13:59,150 --> 00:14:00,360
So I thought I might give it a go
312
00:14:00,360 --> 00:14:02,200
with a wakeboard and a towline.
313
00:14:02,200 --> 00:14:04,570
After meticulous safety
checks and procedures,
314
00:14:04,570 --> 00:14:06,190
we gave it a shot.
315
00:14:06,190 --> 00:14:08,800
Looking at it now, it
seems a little extreme,
316
00:14:08,800 --> 00:14:12,880
a 110-ton vessel towing
a 110-kilo nutcase.
317
00:14:13,753 --> 00:14:16,220
And, to be honest, the captain
wanted to test the engines
318
00:14:16,220 --> 00:14:18,300
after doing some servicing,
so I figured instead
319
00:14:18,300 --> 00:14:19,750
of letting the fuel go to waste,
320
00:14:19,750 --> 00:14:21,160
we should do something a little different,
321
00:14:21,160 --> 00:14:22,210
and, boy, was it fun!
322
00:14:23,278 --> 00:14:26,945
(lively instrumental music)
323
00:14:45,410 --> 00:14:48,150
On shore I noticed someone
working on the rocks.
324
00:14:48,150 --> 00:14:51,010
He was wearing full overalls
in the searing heat,
325
00:14:51,010 --> 00:14:52,780
toiling for hours on end.
326
00:14:52,780 --> 00:14:54,100
Curiosity got the better of me
327
00:14:54,100 --> 00:14:56,640
and I went across to find
out what he was doing.
328
00:14:56,640 --> 00:15:00,119
His name was Minas, and as it
turns out, we were related.
329
00:15:00,119 --> 00:15:04,536
(speaking in foreign language)
330
00:15:05,800 --> 00:15:07,687
- So he's already put some down.
331
00:15:07,687 --> 00:15:12,104
(speaking in foreign language)
332
00:15:25,760 --> 00:15:26,929
- [Peter] These rocks.
333
00:15:26,929 --> 00:15:28,928
(mumbles) Minas, who owns these rocks?
334
00:15:28,928 --> 00:15:33,345
(speaking in foreign language)
335
00:15:44,240 --> 00:15:48,160
- So, basically, this land
where the rocks are is owned
336
00:15:48,160 --> 00:15:51,550
by all Kytherians, and if you...
337
00:15:51,550 --> 00:15:54,170
If you harvest the salt,
if you're doing the work
338
00:15:54,170 --> 00:15:56,750
to harvest the salt, that salt is yours.
339
00:15:56,750 --> 00:15:57,847
If someone else comes to get it
340
00:15:57,847 --> 00:16:00,100
and if you've been harvesting
it, they're stealing from you.
341
00:16:00,100 --> 00:16:01,410
So you've got to do your own basically,
342
00:16:01,410 --> 00:16:03,367
but anyone can come here and do it.
343
00:16:03,367 --> 00:16:05,870
(speaking in foreign language)
344
00:16:05,870 --> 00:16:07,037
Look at these nice tools.
345
00:16:07,037 --> 00:16:09,820
(speaking in foreign language)
346
00:16:09,820 --> 00:16:11,859
- This is from the Spaghetti,
but he's changed it.
347
00:16:11,859 --> 00:16:13,968
(speaking in foreign language)
348
00:16:13,968 --> 00:16:16,040
- So this is a bucket
that he used for paint,
349
00:16:16,040 --> 00:16:18,000
and now he's put some
holes in the bottom of it,
350
00:16:18,000 --> 00:16:18,989
and you'll see why.
351
00:16:18,989 --> 00:16:23,250
(speaking in foreign language)
352
00:16:23,250 --> 00:16:25,328
- He's got to show me first.
353
00:16:25,328 --> 00:16:29,745
(speaking in foreign language)
354
00:16:31,566 --> 00:16:32,990
- [Peter] Uh, we've got
to check if it's clean,
355
00:16:32,990 --> 00:16:33,823
so he turns it over.
356
00:16:33,823 --> 00:16:36,330
Because if it's got crap
in it, he doesn't use it.
357
00:16:36,330 --> 00:16:37,163
He turns it over.
358
00:16:37,163 --> 00:16:38,893
It's clean, so that's good salt.
359
00:16:39,890 --> 00:16:41,890
(speaking in foreign language)
360
00:16:41,890 --> 00:16:43,640
- [Peter] So you don't go too deep.
361
00:16:47,906 --> 00:16:50,225
(speaking in foreign language)
362
00:16:50,225 --> 00:16:53,235
- [Peter] Oh, yeah, the gold!
363
00:16:53,235 --> 00:16:54,068
Eh!
364
00:16:55,634 --> 00:16:59,093
(speaking in foreign language)
365
00:16:59,093 --> 00:17:03,090
- [Peter] This is air and sun,
that's how it has happened.
366
00:17:03,090 --> 00:17:04,063
This is fantastic.
367
00:17:04,950 --> 00:17:06,372
Because we don't want to put it too deep.
368
00:17:06,372 --> 00:17:10,964
(speaking in foreign language)
369
00:17:10,964 --> 00:17:14,480
(lively instrumental music)
370
00:17:14,480 --> 00:17:15,313
- [Peter] This is how people
371
00:17:15,313 --> 00:17:17,550
have gathered salt for centuries.
372
00:17:17,550 --> 00:17:20,170
It's incredibly basic, and
provides a natural product
373
00:17:20,170 --> 00:17:22,060
that tastes amazing.
374
00:17:22,060 --> 00:17:24,410
I love the simplicity of it, and the idea
375
00:17:24,410 --> 00:17:26,290
that a similar technique
would have been used
376
00:17:26,290 --> 00:17:28,142
in ancient times.
377
00:17:28,142 --> 00:17:30,810
Minas lives just up the road,
and invited us to his house
378
00:17:30,810 --> 00:17:34,195
to see the final stage in
the process: the drying.
379
00:17:34,195 --> 00:17:37,862
(lively instrumental music)
380
00:17:41,374 --> 00:17:44,705
(speaking in foreign language)
381
00:17:44,705 --> 00:17:46,483
- Oh, look at this!
382
00:17:46,483 --> 00:17:48,075
Fantastic!
383
00:17:48,075 --> 00:17:52,492
(speaking in foreign language)
384
00:17:53,563 --> 00:17:55,023
- [Peter] Oh, wow!
385
00:17:55,023 --> 00:17:56,883
Look at that!
386
00:17:56,883 --> 00:17:59,689
(speaking in foreign language)
387
00:17:59,689 --> 00:18:01,922
- This is the stuff
that we just pulled out.
388
00:18:01,922 --> 00:18:05,839
(speaking in foreign language)
389
00:18:09,670 --> 00:18:11,530
- So what we're saying is when the salt
390
00:18:11,530 --> 00:18:13,630
is touching your hands,
it's not dry enough.
391
00:18:13,630 --> 00:18:15,580
As soon as the salt leaves your hand...
392
00:18:16,470 --> 00:18:17,890
As soon as the salt leaves your hand
393
00:18:17,890 --> 00:18:21,000
when you move it around,
that means it's dry enough.
394
00:18:21,000 --> 00:18:22,320
Pretty simple.
395
00:18:22,320 --> 00:18:24,353
You don't have to be a physicist for this.
396
00:18:25,940 --> 00:18:28,190
I can see all the um...
397
00:18:28,190 --> 00:18:29,640
All the organic people at home,
398
00:18:29,640 --> 00:18:31,700
like my wife, they love this stuff.
399
00:18:31,700 --> 00:18:32,683
So do I actually.
400
00:18:35,258 --> 00:18:39,675
(speaking in foreign language)
401
00:18:41,930 --> 00:18:43,080
- I asked him if I could buy some,
402
00:18:43,080 --> 00:18:45,298
and he said I'm going to give you some.
403
00:18:45,298 --> 00:18:47,428
(speaking in foreign language)
404
00:18:47,428 --> 00:18:49,500
- You're a legend, you're a legend.
405
00:18:49,500 --> 00:18:52,780
We're Kythirian, so he's got
to give it to me, you know.
406
00:18:52,780 --> 00:18:55,750
Spending time with Minas
was an unplanned surprise.
407
00:18:55,750 --> 00:18:57,880
Watching him work and
seeing where he lived
408
00:18:57,880 --> 00:19:00,370
really put life into perspective.
409
00:19:00,370 --> 00:19:02,620
From an age-old technique
for salt collection
410
00:19:02,620 --> 00:19:04,480
to an ancient seaside ruin.
411
00:19:04,480 --> 00:19:06,770
I met with another local, Alexis,
412
00:19:06,770 --> 00:19:10,020
who apart from owning a
café, studied archaeology,
413
00:19:10,020 --> 00:19:12,420
so knows plenty about
the fort in his backyard.
414
00:19:12,420 --> 00:19:13,253
In England?
415
00:19:13,253 --> 00:19:14,680
Archaeology in England?
416
00:19:14,680 --> 00:19:15,563
Fantastic!
417
00:19:16,788 --> 00:19:18,920
So that's why your English is pretty good.
418
00:19:18,920 --> 00:19:19,753
- [Alexis] It's okay.
419
00:19:19,753 --> 00:19:21,770
- [Peter] Yeah, it's very good, very good.
420
00:19:21,770 --> 00:19:23,205
Better than my Greek anyway.
421
00:19:23,205 --> 00:19:24,038
(Alexis chuckles)
422
00:19:24,038 --> 00:19:26,055
(Alexis speaks in foreign language)
423
00:19:26,055 --> 00:19:29,710
- This is the entrance to the
fortress for the time being,
424
00:19:29,710 --> 00:19:33,940
because the main entrance
of the castle is closed now,
425
00:19:33,940 --> 00:19:38,940
because the Greek state is
trying to rebuild the fortress.
426
00:19:39,840 --> 00:19:40,850
- Okay.
427
00:19:40,850 --> 00:19:42,890
- They are trying to find the money,
428
00:19:42,890 --> 00:19:45,480
but, you know, it's
difficult times for that.
429
00:19:45,480 --> 00:19:46,850
- Of course it is, of course it is.
430
00:19:46,850 --> 00:19:47,683
Let's go in.
431
00:19:52,590 --> 00:19:53,423
Wow, Alexis.
432
00:19:54,350 --> 00:19:56,870
It's not really a big fort.
433
00:19:56,870 --> 00:19:58,130
- It's not really a big fort,
434
00:19:58,130 --> 00:20:03,130
but where we are standing
here, was a two-story tower.
435
00:20:04,330 --> 00:20:06,068
And this is where they lived,
436
00:20:06,068 --> 00:20:08,520
this is where they had their gunpowder,
437
00:20:08,520 --> 00:20:13,480
and they were watching
the area 360 degrees.
438
00:20:13,480 --> 00:20:14,313
- [Peter] Right.
439
00:20:14,313 --> 00:20:18,790
- There is also a small
outpost in Agios Georgios
440
00:20:19,740 --> 00:20:22,240
at the mountain at the
back, and another one
441
00:20:22,240 --> 00:20:23,587
with a garrison of two people,
442
00:20:23,587 --> 00:20:27,460
at the small harbour of Avlemonas,
and they all communicated
443
00:20:27,460 --> 00:20:29,510
with each other with fire signals.
444
00:20:29,510 --> 00:20:32,540
Whenever the outpost of Agios Georgios
445
00:20:32,540 --> 00:20:35,950
was seeing the enemy fleet,
they were lighting up torches
446
00:20:35,950 --> 00:20:40,420
and fires and they were
signalling to the garrison here
447
00:20:40,420 --> 00:20:42,960
and the garrison at the other harbour.
448
00:20:42,960 --> 00:20:44,788
- Now, when you say enemy fleet, um--
449
00:20:44,788 --> 00:20:46,056
- The ottoman Fleet.
450
00:20:46,056 --> 00:20:46,889
- The ottoman Fleet?
451
00:20:46,889 --> 00:20:48,350
So is that why this was built?
452
00:20:48,350 --> 00:20:49,270
- Exactly.
453
00:20:49,270 --> 00:20:50,103
- Right, so--
454
00:20:50,103 --> 00:20:53,280
- Exactly, after the sacking by Barbarossa
455
00:20:54,204 --> 00:20:55,760
of the Paleochora city,
456
00:20:55,760 --> 00:20:58,970
which was the mediaeval
capital of Kythira.
457
00:20:58,970 --> 00:20:59,803
- Right.
458
00:20:59,803 --> 00:21:01,200
So they were sacked,
459
00:21:01,200 --> 00:21:03,250
and then they built
all these emplacements.
460
00:21:03,250 --> 00:21:04,083
- Exactly.
461
00:21:04,083 --> 00:21:04,916
- The Venetians?
462
00:21:04,916 --> 00:21:05,923
- The Venetians, exactly.
- Wow.
463
00:21:07,410 --> 00:21:10,360
Time and Mother Nature have
taken their toll on the site,
464
00:21:10,360 --> 00:21:13,440
but what remains tells the
story of what happened here.
465
00:21:13,440 --> 00:21:16,233
For most, it was a period
of turmoil and fear.
466
00:21:17,090 --> 00:21:19,530
Life under Venetian rule was varied.
467
00:21:19,530 --> 00:21:21,670
Many islands suffered from high taxes
468
00:21:21,670 --> 00:21:23,560
or constant pirate attacks,
469
00:21:23,560 --> 00:21:25,960
while others prospered
thanks to improved trade.
470
00:21:26,860 --> 00:21:28,860
It was very different under the Ottoman's.
471
00:21:28,860 --> 00:21:30,680
The Turkish had little
respect for the people
472
00:21:30,680 --> 00:21:33,220
or culture of Greece,
and imposed their ways
473
00:21:33,220 --> 00:21:35,533
on the populous through
fear and oppression.
474
00:21:36,680 --> 00:21:38,630
I'm wondering how it would have felt,
475
00:21:38,630 --> 00:21:42,240
for these young 10 men
that were in this fort,
476
00:21:42,240 --> 00:21:44,460
to be sitting here,
looking through that hole,
477
00:21:44,460 --> 00:21:47,006
at other ships, with these cannons,
478
00:21:47,006 --> 00:21:48,163
they would have been very scared.
479
00:21:48,163 --> 00:21:49,660
- [Alexis] They would
have been very scared
480
00:21:49,660 --> 00:21:51,776
because this is a small fort as we said,
481
00:21:51,776 --> 00:21:54,710
and it was quite easy to be sacked.
482
00:21:54,710 --> 00:21:55,777
- [Peter] Yes.
483
00:21:55,777 --> 00:21:56,610
Yes.
484
00:21:56,610 --> 00:22:00,270
- There are certain stories
that this fort has been sacked
485
00:22:00,270 --> 00:22:03,360
by pirates, especially
during the late times
486
00:22:03,360 --> 00:22:05,293
of the Venetian Empire.
- Is that right?
487
00:22:05,293 --> 00:22:07,290
- [Alexis] Late 18th century.
488
00:22:07,290 --> 00:22:11,200
There was a story that it was
sacked by pirates, for money.
489
00:22:11,200 --> 00:22:12,033
- [Peter] For money?
490
00:22:12,033 --> 00:22:14,326
- Greek pirates, for money.
- Greek pirates?
491
00:22:14,326 --> 00:22:15,546
- [Alexis] Mm-hm.
492
00:22:15,546 --> 00:22:17,470
- So, 16th, 17th, 18th
century it was used.
493
00:22:17,470 --> 00:22:19,140
It was used in World War II.
494
00:22:19,140 --> 00:22:20,147
- Exactly.
495
00:22:20,147 --> 00:22:21,770
- Well, they got good value
out of this fort, didn't they?
496
00:22:21,770 --> 00:22:22,947
Great value.
497
00:22:22,947 --> 00:22:25,780
(thrilling music)
498
00:22:34,346 --> 00:22:36,929
(lively music)
499
00:22:45,873 --> 00:22:48,470
(crickets chirping)
500
00:22:48,470 --> 00:22:50,910
Just inland from the
sea, hidden in a valley,
501
00:22:50,910 --> 00:22:52,853
lies a village with a tragic story.
502
00:22:53,960 --> 00:22:55,810
Behind me is Paleochora.
503
00:22:55,810 --> 00:22:57,963
Paleochora meaning old town, in Greek.
504
00:22:59,200 --> 00:23:00,747
My mother brought me here when I was 10,
505
00:23:00,747 --> 00:23:03,387
and my father 10 years later.
506
00:23:03,387 --> 00:23:05,200
I just didn't understand why
they had brought me here.
507
00:23:05,200 --> 00:23:08,290
In subsequent visits, and
a little bit of reading,
508
00:23:08,290 --> 00:23:09,940
I started to develop an understanding
509
00:23:09,940 --> 00:23:12,970
of why they brought me
here, and why their parents
510
00:23:12,970 --> 00:23:15,350
and their parent's
parents brought them here.
511
00:23:15,350 --> 00:23:16,310
If you look at the castle,
512
00:23:16,310 --> 00:23:18,040
you'll see it's hidden from the sea.
513
00:23:18,040 --> 00:23:19,590
And it's well-fortified.
514
00:23:19,590 --> 00:23:23,240
This is a result of fear,
fear of these families
515
00:23:23,240 --> 00:23:26,070
from piracy and the devastation of war.
516
00:23:26,070 --> 00:23:28,920
And that's why my parents
kept bringing me back.
517
00:23:28,920 --> 00:23:31,614
Let's go and have a look at it.
518
00:23:31,614 --> 00:23:34,663
Funny thing about Paleochora
is it is not unique to Kythira.
519
00:23:35,560 --> 00:23:36,590
We're talking about a time
520
00:23:36,590 --> 00:23:39,683
when pirates ruled the
Mediterranean and this region.
521
00:23:40,690 --> 00:23:42,320
And it happened everywhere.
522
00:23:42,320 --> 00:23:45,860
People had to risk their lives
to build this sort of stuff
523
00:23:45,860 --> 00:23:48,180
just to save their families.
524
00:23:48,180 --> 00:23:52,940
You can see the work that
goes into building this stuff,
525
00:23:52,940 --> 00:23:55,440
they would have had to
quarry the mountain itself.
526
00:23:56,470 --> 00:23:59,220
Surely people would have died
just building this place.
527
00:24:03,540 --> 00:24:06,670
The Byzantine capital of
Paleochora was once home
528
00:24:06,670 --> 00:24:08,550
to some 800 people.
529
00:24:08,550 --> 00:24:11,320
There were 15 churches and 20 priests.
530
00:24:11,320 --> 00:24:13,470
It was positioned on a remote cliffside,
531
00:24:13,470 --> 00:24:14,690
perched in a manner that allowed them
532
00:24:14,690 --> 00:24:17,720
to see incoming pirates
without being seen themselves.
533
00:24:17,720 --> 00:24:20,880
For 700 years the capital
provided the camouflage
534
00:24:20,880 --> 00:24:22,920
and security that it was built for,
535
00:24:22,920 --> 00:24:26,930
until one fateful moment
in the island's history.
536
00:24:26,930 --> 00:24:28,430
This is where it all happened.
537
00:24:30,120 --> 00:24:32,010
This is probably where the wall was,
538
00:24:32,010 --> 00:24:33,500
their second line of defence.
539
00:24:33,500 --> 00:24:37,500
Their first line of defence
was being hidden from the sea.
540
00:24:37,500 --> 00:24:38,950
The siege happened here.
541
00:24:38,950 --> 00:24:41,120
This was the beginning of the end.
542
00:24:41,120 --> 00:24:44,480
Once they got to here,
the people of Paleochora,
543
00:24:44,480 --> 00:24:45,993
they were cut off.
544
00:24:47,361 --> 00:24:48,911
They had no chance.
545
00:24:48,911 --> 00:24:52,578
(gentle instrumental music)
546
00:25:04,200 --> 00:25:07,120
The ruins are a testament
to those that lived here.
547
00:25:07,120 --> 00:25:10,100
It's a silent monument to a bloody past
548
00:25:10,100 --> 00:25:13,050
and a story that can be told
in similar forms in villages
549
00:25:13,050 --> 00:25:16,521
and towns across Greece that
were invaded by the Turks.
550
00:25:16,521 --> 00:25:20,310
Paleochora or Agios Dimitrios
as it was known in this time,
551
00:25:20,310 --> 00:25:24,133
Saint Dimitri, was built 12th century A.D.
552
00:25:25,380 --> 00:25:27,333
These people lived in fear.
553
00:25:29,040 --> 00:25:32,620
They just kept building churches.
554
00:25:32,620 --> 00:25:34,907
I've counted 12, and I
haven't seen them all.
555
00:25:34,907 --> 00:25:36,663
And you can see why I haven't.
556
00:25:38,000 --> 00:25:40,813
But it all came to an end in 1537,
557
00:25:42,070 --> 00:25:46,360
when the Turkish Ottoman
Pirate Barbarossa,
558
00:25:46,360 --> 00:25:50,420
who later became an admiral,
sacked the whole island.
559
00:25:50,420 --> 00:25:55,070
He laid siege out the front
here, killed everybody.
560
00:25:55,070 --> 00:25:57,720
Those he didn't kill, he
took as slaves and sold off.
561
00:25:58,700 --> 00:26:00,520
That was the end of Paleochora.
562
00:26:01,610 --> 00:26:03,060
It was never inhabited again.
563
00:26:05,140 --> 00:26:09,350
This remote castle city
has no gates or wardens.
564
00:26:09,350 --> 00:26:11,400
It's a great place to freely walk through
565
00:26:11,400 --> 00:26:13,290
and see ancient architecture
566
00:26:13,290 --> 00:26:16,580
in a location with spectacular views.
567
00:26:16,580 --> 00:26:17,690
There are even remains
568
00:26:17,690 --> 00:26:20,253
of beautiful Byzantine
wall paintings and frescos.
569
00:26:21,090 --> 00:26:24,570
But perhaps the most moving
thing is its history.
570
00:26:24,570 --> 00:26:27,480
You could say that it's
a dark and tragic one.
571
00:26:27,480 --> 00:26:30,150
However, I like to think
that, for the most part,
572
00:26:30,150 --> 00:26:31,850
it would have been peaceful.
573
00:26:31,850 --> 00:26:34,650
I can imagine people walking
through the narrow lanes,
574
00:26:34,650 --> 00:26:36,490
children playing in the alleys
575
00:26:36,490 --> 00:26:39,330
and traders selling their
wares in the square.
576
00:26:39,330 --> 00:26:42,100
Life here may have been
removed from the outside world,
577
00:26:42,100 --> 00:26:43,160
but it would have been no different
578
00:26:43,160 --> 00:26:45,110
to most other towns in Greece.
579
00:26:45,110 --> 00:26:48,140
Ruins, like this old church
with its remnant paintings,
580
00:26:48,140 --> 00:26:51,300
create an image of a people
that lived a life of faith,
581
00:26:51,300 --> 00:26:53,030
toil and service.
582
00:26:53,030 --> 00:26:54,840
The age of the work is unknown, however,
583
00:26:54,840 --> 00:26:57,040
the site was abandoned
in the 16th century,
584
00:26:57,040 --> 00:26:58,790
so we know they're older than that.
585
00:27:03,720 --> 00:27:08,720
This is one of the Byzantine
churches within Paleochora.
586
00:27:08,801 --> 00:27:11,090
And I love it because you
see all of the architecture,
587
00:27:11,090 --> 00:27:15,380
the stone, the vaulted ceilings,
which are the the Kamaras,
588
00:27:15,380 --> 00:27:17,317
which was typical for
houses at the time as well,
589
00:27:17,317 --> 00:27:19,110
and these beautiful arches,
590
00:27:19,110 --> 00:27:22,570
all that are in the same
condition as they were
591
00:27:22,570 --> 00:27:25,310
when it was first built 700 years ago.
592
00:27:25,310 --> 00:27:27,990
What's more impressive is they're built
593
00:27:27,990 --> 00:27:31,490
on the edge of cliff, a 250 metre drop.
594
00:27:31,490 --> 00:27:32,700
These were my forefathers,
595
00:27:32,700 --> 00:27:36,060
and I'm just so impressed
with their capability.
596
00:27:36,060 --> 00:27:37,320
They were farmers.
597
00:27:37,320 --> 00:27:39,513
They were farmers, they were builders,
598
00:27:40,490 --> 00:27:41,967
and they were soldiers.
599
00:27:41,967 --> 00:27:45,634
(gentle instrumental music)
600
00:27:47,120 --> 00:27:49,140
Executing locals one by one
601
00:27:49,140 --> 00:27:51,710
until they gave up the secret location,
602
00:27:51,710 --> 00:27:54,960
Barbarossa was lead to the
city from its only way in,
603
00:27:54,960 --> 00:27:58,280
a path faced by a large stone wall.
604
00:27:58,280 --> 00:28:01,200
There they laid siege until
penetrating the defences
605
00:28:01,200 --> 00:28:03,083
and murdering the city's inhabitants.
606
00:28:04,050 --> 00:28:06,620
Legend has it that 80 people
hid under the floor of a church
607
00:28:06,620 --> 00:28:09,500
in silence, hoping they
could wait out the attack
608
00:28:09,500 --> 00:28:12,780
and emerge once the invaders
had looted the city.
609
00:28:12,780 --> 00:28:14,750
However, the agonising silence was broken
610
00:28:14,750 --> 00:28:16,000
with the cries of a baby.
611
00:28:16,860 --> 00:28:20,330
The mother franticly tried
to silence it, but couldn't.
612
00:28:20,330 --> 00:28:23,180
So, the father, in a moment of desperation
613
00:28:23,180 --> 00:28:26,100
and with 80 lives at
stake, handed her a knife
614
00:28:26,100 --> 00:28:30,320
and gave a look that suggested
only one fateful instruction.
615
00:28:30,320 --> 00:28:32,360
As the mother took the knife and was about
616
00:28:32,360 --> 00:28:35,870
to silence the cries, a
group of elders stopped her.
617
00:28:35,870 --> 00:28:39,680
One spoke quietly, saying
that better we die than live
618
00:28:39,680 --> 00:28:41,210
with such a memory.
619
00:28:41,210 --> 00:28:44,580
Having heard the baby, moments
later the invaders arrived,
620
00:28:44,580 --> 00:28:47,660
and the hiding townsfolk
were all massacred.
621
00:28:47,660 --> 00:28:50,137
After that fateful day,
622
00:28:50,137 --> 00:28:52,733
Paleochora was never inhabited again.
623
00:29:00,017 --> 00:29:02,600
(lively music)
624
00:29:11,330 --> 00:29:14,310
Kyriakos, thanks for bringing
me to the markets today.
625
00:29:14,310 --> 00:29:15,857
You always do the shopping and--
626
00:29:15,857 --> 00:29:17,084
(speaking in foreign language)
627
00:29:17,084 --> 00:29:19,455
(laughing)
628
00:29:19,455 --> 00:29:20,725
(speaking in foreign language)
629
00:29:20,725 --> 00:29:22,860
- You know, I love the
Potamos markets on Sundays.
630
00:29:22,860 --> 00:29:25,504
I miss it from when I was a little boy.
631
00:29:25,504 --> 00:29:29,921
(speaking in foreign language)
632
00:29:35,440 --> 00:29:36,450
- You know a market is good
633
00:29:36,450 --> 00:29:38,440
if it's where the locals
do their shopping.
634
00:29:38,440 --> 00:29:40,510
This isn't one of those tourist setups.
635
00:29:40,510 --> 00:29:42,880
It's as authentic as it gets.
636
00:29:42,880 --> 00:29:44,600
There's plenty of colourful people,
637
00:29:44,600 --> 00:29:46,880
great food and bargains to be had.
638
00:29:46,880 --> 00:29:48,610
The best stuff is the local produce.
639
00:29:48,610 --> 00:29:50,604
You've got to be careful here,
because there is local stuff
640
00:29:50,604 --> 00:29:52,337
and there is stuff that
comes from Peloponeso
641
00:29:52,337 --> 00:29:53,820
that's not organic.
642
00:29:53,820 --> 00:29:55,046
Kyriakos has got the right eye.
643
00:29:55,046 --> 00:29:55,879
He has got the right eye.
644
00:29:55,879 --> 00:29:59,464
(speaking in foreign language)
645
00:29:59,464 --> 00:30:01,787
- After years and years
and years, you have to.
646
00:30:03,795 --> 00:30:08,190
(speaking in foreign language)
647
00:30:08,190 --> 00:30:09,023
- Very sweet.
648
00:30:10,500 --> 00:30:13,170
There's something about Greek tomatoes.
649
00:30:13,170 --> 00:30:14,860
I might be biassed, but they just seem
650
00:30:14,860 --> 00:30:18,300
to taste so much sweeter
and are way more aromatic
651
00:30:18,300 --> 00:30:19,430
than anywhere else.
652
00:30:19,430 --> 00:30:23,060
These are awesome, mate,
these are fantastic.
653
00:30:23,060 --> 00:30:24,099
The greens...
654
00:30:24,099 --> 00:30:25,010
(speaking in foreign language)
655
00:30:25,010 --> 00:30:27,510
He boils them with olive
oil and lemon, fantastic.
656
00:30:29,403 --> 00:30:31,430
While I went around the
markets trying everything
657
00:30:31,430 --> 00:30:34,200
I could get my lips around,
Kyriakos was busy stocking up
658
00:30:34,200 --> 00:30:35,310
with fresh food.
659
00:30:35,310 --> 00:30:37,790
He goes through this process
at every port we stop at.
660
00:30:37,790 --> 00:30:39,610
You'd think the last thing he'd enjoy
661
00:30:39,610 --> 00:30:42,160
is me tagging along and
asking a million questions.
662
00:30:42,160 --> 00:30:44,920
But he loves sharing his
knowledge and passion for food,
663
00:30:44,920 --> 00:30:46,973
plus the extra set of hands was welcomed.
664
00:30:47,947 --> 00:30:52,364
(speaking in foreign language)
665
00:31:29,840 --> 00:31:31,200
- Because it's got needles on it,
666
00:31:31,200 --> 00:31:32,790
he knows that it's local and it's fresh.
667
00:31:32,790 --> 00:31:35,143
Well, the ones behind us, not local.
668
00:31:39,550 --> 00:31:41,490
The search for ingredients continued,
669
00:31:41,490 --> 00:31:43,120
but time was of the essence.
670
00:31:43,120 --> 00:31:44,500
The afternoon's meal is a special one
671
00:31:44,500 --> 00:31:46,700
that takes a lot of preparation.
672
00:31:46,700 --> 00:31:48,900
I asked Kyriakos to cook
something my mum used to make.
673
00:31:48,900 --> 00:31:52,090
It's my favourite Greek dish,
and while it might take a while
674
00:31:52,090 --> 00:31:54,270
to prepare, it's well worth the wait.
675
00:31:54,270 --> 00:31:58,490
(speaking in foreign language)
676
00:31:58,490 --> 00:32:00,403
- We put our fresh frozen okra.
677
00:32:02,546 --> 00:32:04,160
(speaking in foreign language)
678
00:32:04,160 --> 00:32:07,280
- And a little bit of
vinegar on top, ooh, yeah!
679
00:32:07,280 --> 00:32:08,569
And the reason we're doing this?
680
00:32:08,569 --> 00:32:12,986
(speaking in foreign language)
681
00:32:18,130 --> 00:32:21,990
- So the reason Kyriakos
puts the vinegar on top
682
00:32:21,990 --> 00:32:25,070
is because the okra has a natural slime.
683
00:32:25,070 --> 00:32:26,100
And what's going to happen is it is going
684
00:32:26,100 --> 00:32:27,850
to take the slime out,
685
00:32:27,850 --> 00:32:30,760
and it's also going to dry up the okra.
686
00:32:30,760 --> 00:32:32,280
Because many times when people make okra
687
00:32:32,280 --> 00:32:34,220
and it is too slimy, they pulls it apart.
688
00:32:34,220 --> 00:32:35,894
This guy, you're a legend.
689
00:32:35,894 --> 00:32:36,727
(speaks in foreign language)
690
00:32:36,727 --> 00:32:37,930
I've had this before, it's awesome.
691
00:32:37,930 --> 00:32:39,120
I can't wait.
692
00:32:39,120 --> 00:32:40,249
And he puts it in the oven.
693
00:32:40,249 --> 00:32:42,000
(speaking in foreign language)
694
00:32:42,000 --> 00:32:43,999
- 150 degrees.
695
00:32:43,999 --> 00:32:45,540
(speaking in foreign language)
696
00:32:45,540 --> 00:32:47,569
- For one hour, just to dry up.
697
00:32:47,569 --> 00:32:51,986
(speaking in foreign language)
698
00:32:56,760 --> 00:33:00,020
- Because it's chicken
leg, we've got to put it
699
00:33:00,020 --> 00:33:03,559
in the oven now to cook, because
it takes a while to cook.
700
00:33:03,559 --> 00:33:04,468
But if we were doing breast...
701
00:33:04,468 --> 00:33:06,320
(speaking in foreign language)
702
00:33:06,320 --> 00:33:08,208
- We would have put it
straight in later on.
703
00:33:08,208 --> 00:33:12,625
(speaking in foreign language)
704
00:33:20,480 --> 00:33:21,700
- No olive oil, no nothing.
705
00:33:21,700 --> 00:33:23,755
It's got its own fat, so it's okay.
706
00:33:23,755 --> 00:33:24,720
(speaking in foreign language)
707
00:33:24,720 --> 00:33:26,410
- Straight in there for
the same amount of time.
708
00:33:26,410 --> 00:33:29,680
To start the salsa we add two
cups of olive oil, onions,
709
00:33:29,680 --> 00:33:32,960
shallots and the baby carrots
we got from the markets.
710
00:33:32,960 --> 00:33:35,180
They all get lightly sautéed, not browned,
711
00:33:35,180 --> 00:33:36,910
for around five minutes.
712
00:33:36,910 --> 00:33:39,970
Next we add the tomatoes,
also from Potamos markets.
713
00:33:39,970 --> 00:33:42,025
You can't get any fresher than that.
714
00:33:42,025 --> 00:33:43,895
(speaking in foreign language)
715
00:33:43,895 --> 00:33:46,410
- It's the season for tomatoes, too.
716
00:33:46,410 --> 00:33:49,540
A little salt and pepper
to taste, some parsley
717
00:33:49,540 --> 00:33:52,370
and a sprinkle of sugar
to complete the job.
718
00:33:52,370 --> 00:33:55,480
Kyriakos insists on adding
sugar to fresh tomatoes
719
00:33:55,480 --> 00:33:58,720
as it brings out the flavour
and reduces the acidity.
720
00:33:58,720 --> 00:34:00,030
The key is not to overcook it,
721
00:34:00,030 --> 00:34:03,260
because from here it goes
into the oven for an hour.
722
00:34:03,260 --> 00:34:06,160
After 30 minutes give the okra a stir
723
00:34:06,160 --> 00:34:08,730
and then pop them back
in for another half hour.
724
00:34:08,730 --> 00:34:10,440
The same goes for the chicken.
725
00:34:10,440 --> 00:34:13,555
The next step in the process
is bringing it all together.
726
00:34:13,555 --> 00:34:14,780
(speaking in foreign language)
727
00:34:14,780 --> 00:34:16,170
- A little bit of salt.
728
00:34:16,170 --> 00:34:17,977
That's not a little bit
of salt, but anyway.
729
00:34:17,977 --> 00:34:20,227
(laughing)
730
00:34:21,250 --> 00:34:22,870
But look at the chicken, it looks nice,
731
00:34:22,870 --> 00:34:25,457
it's ready to brown, it's
about there, isn't it?
732
00:34:25,457 --> 00:34:26,290
And what do we do?
733
00:34:26,290 --> 00:34:28,457
We bring our little
emulsion here that we--
734
00:34:28,457 --> 00:34:30,690
(speaking in foreign language)
735
00:34:30,690 --> 00:34:31,848
- The salsa.
736
00:34:31,848 --> 00:34:32,681
(speaking in foreign language)
737
00:34:32,681 --> 00:34:34,550
- Right, ooh, yeah.
738
00:34:34,550 --> 00:34:35,830
Ooh, yeah.
739
00:34:35,830 --> 00:34:38,397
Ooh, that looks good.
740
00:34:38,397 --> 00:34:41,117
Have a look at the faces
of our crew over there,
741
00:34:41,117 --> 00:34:42,117
they are salivating.
742
00:34:43,256 --> 00:34:44,089
(speaking in foreign language)
743
00:34:44,089 --> 00:34:46,500
- And so we spread it over the okra
744
00:34:46,500 --> 00:34:48,150
to make sure that it
is evenly distributed,
745
00:34:48,150 --> 00:34:49,850
like a uniformly distributed load.
746
00:34:51,170 --> 00:34:52,670
For those engineers out there.
747
00:34:53,834 --> 00:34:54,667
(speaking in foreign language)
748
00:34:54,667 --> 00:34:56,579
- [Peter] And then you
put the chicken on top.
749
00:34:56,579 --> 00:35:00,689
(speaking in foreign language)
750
00:35:00,689 --> 00:35:04,913
- So, there is the juice of the chicken
751
00:35:04,913 --> 00:35:06,670
that has come out in the cooking,
752
00:35:06,670 --> 00:35:09,680
and he said that if we want
to make sure we get the value
753
00:35:09,680 --> 00:35:11,470
of the chicken into the uh...
754
00:35:11,470 --> 00:35:13,950
The stock of the chicken, into the okra,
755
00:35:13,950 --> 00:35:15,613
we just pour it all over.
756
00:35:16,600 --> 00:35:17,640
This looks good.
757
00:35:17,640 --> 00:35:21,640
(speaking in foreign language)
758
00:35:21,640 --> 00:35:22,890
- So this could be a vegetarian dish,
759
00:35:22,890 --> 00:35:24,890
you don't need the chicken.
760
00:35:24,890 --> 00:35:26,150
And this is done with chicken breast,
761
00:35:26,150 --> 00:35:27,828
obviously we love chicken breast.
762
00:35:27,828 --> 00:35:32,658
(speaking in foreign language)
763
00:35:32,658 --> 00:35:35,000
- He prefers the leg to the chicken breast
764
00:35:35,000 --> 00:35:36,818
because it's tastier, is that right?
765
00:35:36,818 --> 00:35:41,235
(speaking in foreign language)
766
00:35:44,810 --> 00:35:47,440
- So this now goes back
in the oven for an hour.
767
00:35:47,440 --> 00:35:48,736
How easy is this!
768
00:35:48,736 --> 00:35:49,770
(speaking in foreign language)
769
00:35:49,770 --> 00:35:50,790
- It's so easy you've just got
770
00:35:50,790 --> 00:35:52,340
to take Kyriakos home with you.
771
00:35:57,970 --> 00:35:59,700
Okay, it's been an hour
since we put it in,
772
00:35:59,700 --> 00:36:02,749
actually two hours and 10
minutes since we first started.
773
00:36:02,749 --> 00:36:04,410
(speaking in foreign language)
774
00:36:04,410 --> 00:36:05,243
- It's ready.
775
00:36:05,243 --> 00:36:07,030
Let's go, let's see what it's like.
776
00:36:07,030 --> 00:36:09,570
I have my fork, and I
have my glass of rosé.
777
00:36:11,248 --> 00:36:13,770
You're supposed to have
white wine but I got no idea.
778
00:36:13,770 --> 00:36:14,603
All right.
779
00:36:14,603 --> 00:36:15,437
Ooh!
780
00:36:15,437 --> 00:36:18,220
(speaks in foreign language)
781
00:36:18,220 --> 00:36:21,250
Now look at this, look at
the bamia, it hasn't...
782
00:36:21,250 --> 00:36:23,070
The okra hasn't split apart.
783
00:36:23,070 --> 00:36:24,418
That's the key.
784
00:36:24,418 --> 00:36:27,720
(speaks in foreign language)
785
00:36:27,720 --> 00:36:28,949
Thank you very much.
786
00:36:28,949 --> 00:36:30,383
He does it better than my mother.
787
00:36:31,458 --> 00:36:35,875
(speaking in foreign language)
788
00:36:37,698 --> 00:36:38,531
- Oh.
789
00:36:40,048 --> 00:36:40,989
Fantastic.
790
00:36:40,989 --> 00:36:44,906
(speaking in foreign language)
791
00:36:46,079 --> 00:36:47,573
- We are going to get
the captain's opinion.
792
00:36:47,573 --> 00:36:51,823
(speaks in foreign language)
793
00:36:53,700 --> 00:36:54,850
Tell us what you think.
794
00:37:07,370 --> 00:37:08,520
- Fantastic.
- Fantastic!
795
00:37:08,520 --> 00:37:09,806
Oh, yeah!
796
00:37:09,806 --> 00:37:11,316
(speaking in foreign language)
797
00:37:11,316 --> 00:37:14,050
(laughing)
798
00:37:14,050 --> 00:37:16,120
- So there you have it: bamia or okra
799
00:37:16,120 --> 00:37:17,790
with chicken drumsticks.
800
00:37:17,790 --> 00:37:21,590
This can easily be a beef,
lamb or even a vegetarian dish.
801
00:37:21,590 --> 00:37:24,300
Any way you make it, bamia
is one of the best dishes
802
00:37:24,300 --> 00:37:26,080
you will ever taste.
803
00:37:26,080 --> 00:37:27,580
And if you're listening up there, mum,
804
00:37:27,580 --> 00:37:30,373
I told a lie, yours was still the best.
805
00:37:35,526 --> 00:37:38,109
(lively music)
806
00:37:45,871 --> 00:37:50,038
(lively instrumental music)
807
00:37:53,470 --> 00:37:54,560
As you drive around the island,
808
00:37:54,560 --> 00:37:56,910
you'll see some incredible scenery.
809
00:37:56,910 --> 00:37:59,670
It's only a small landmass,
so getting around is easy.
810
00:37:59,670 --> 00:38:01,120
Just watch out for the goats.
811
00:38:04,970 --> 00:38:07,880
My journey was in search of Agia Sophia,
812
00:38:07,880 --> 00:38:10,913
which is a tiny church that had
been built in a remote cave.
813
00:38:12,210 --> 00:38:14,320
The drive there was pretty special.
814
00:38:14,320 --> 00:38:16,600
The passing views were spectacular,
815
00:38:16,600 --> 00:38:18,530
and because it's not a
busy tourist destination,
816
00:38:18,530 --> 00:38:20,083
it was quiet and peaceful.
817
00:38:21,030 --> 00:38:23,350
The hard part is staying
focused on the road,
818
00:38:23,350 --> 00:38:26,348
and not stopping every few
minutes to take photos.
819
00:38:26,348 --> 00:38:30,015
(lively instrumental music)
820
00:38:38,780 --> 00:38:42,100
You know, the wonderful
thing about Kythira,
821
00:38:42,100 --> 00:38:45,630
is quite often the journey is just
822
00:38:45,630 --> 00:38:46,980
as good as the destination.
823
00:38:47,840 --> 00:38:51,240
And whether you're walking or driving...
824
00:38:52,470 --> 00:38:55,183
Have a look at this, it's just so special.
825
00:38:56,230 --> 00:38:57,213
I love this place.
826
00:39:00,158 --> 00:39:02,120
If you weren't made aware
of this hillside cave
827
00:39:02,120 --> 00:39:05,220
and what lay inside,
you'd simply drive on by.
828
00:39:05,220 --> 00:39:06,810
It's hidden from view,
which is perhaps why
829
00:39:06,810 --> 00:39:09,290
it has remained relatively
intact for so long,
830
00:39:09,290 --> 00:39:12,420
and why people fleeing the
tyranny of wars and occupation,
831
00:39:12,420 --> 00:39:14,900
have used this as a
hiding spot for centuries.
832
00:39:14,900 --> 00:39:17,240
All right, Vagellis, we've
walked 10 metres into the cave
833
00:39:17,240 --> 00:39:19,270
and I already see these beautiful icons.
834
00:39:19,270 --> 00:39:20,249
Can you tell me a bit
835
00:39:20,249 --> 00:39:21,082
about this?
- Yeah.
836
00:39:21,082 --> 00:39:22,550
Those icons are frescos.
837
00:39:22,550 --> 00:39:25,800
So they have used fresco
technique to keep them fresh.
838
00:39:25,800 --> 00:39:28,740
On the left here, we see an icon
839
00:39:29,920 --> 00:39:33,970
which we know that was
painted in about 13th century.
840
00:39:33,970 --> 00:39:36,520
So we're talking about a very old icon.
841
00:39:36,520 --> 00:39:41,080
And on the left we can see
Saint Sophia, Agia Sophia,
842
00:39:41,080 --> 00:39:43,954
and he had three daughters:
Love, Hope, Faith.
843
00:39:43,954 --> 00:39:45,300
- Vagellis, how deep is this cave?
844
00:39:45,300 --> 00:39:50,066
- Well, so this cave goes
in about 500 metres long,
845
00:39:50,066 --> 00:39:53,360
and we can visit only about 220 of them.
846
00:39:53,360 --> 00:39:54,193
- Let's go and have a look.
847
00:39:54,193 --> 00:39:55,440
- All right.
- Thank you.
848
00:39:56,864 --> 00:39:58,160
You've got to watch your
head here, obviously.
849
00:39:58,160 --> 00:40:00,070
- Yeah, of course, because, you know,
850
00:40:00,070 --> 00:40:03,460
the height of the cave
becomes smaller and smaller
851
00:40:03,460 --> 00:40:05,050
as we enter it through.
852
00:40:05,050 --> 00:40:06,520
It's very, very slippery.
853
00:40:06,520 --> 00:40:08,515
Give me your hand, okay.
- Thank you very much,
854
00:40:08,515 --> 00:40:09,348
Vagellis.
855
00:40:09,348 --> 00:40:11,830
- Yeah, because it's difficult, I know.
856
00:40:11,830 --> 00:40:12,883
- What do we have here?
857
00:40:12,883 --> 00:40:15,320
I know that's the 13th
century church back there.
858
00:40:15,320 --> 00:40:16,256
What do we have here?
859
00:40:16,256 --> 00:40:18,540
- Here we have an earlier church.
860
00:40:18,540 --> 00:40:20,210
This is the church of Saint Sophia.
861
00:40:20,210 --> 00:40:24,170
This church was built
in 1875 by some priests
862
00:40:24,170 --> 00:40:25,810
that used to live here.
863
00:40:25,810 --> 00:40:29,510
You can see an amazing thing,
that the church was built
864
00:40:29,510 --> 00:40:32,586
on the cave, so we can
see the stalactite here.
865
00:40:32,586 --> 00:40:33,419
- [Peter] It's amazing.
866
00:40:33,419 --> 00:40:35,550
- And this cave doesn't
have only this church,
867
00:40:35,550 --> 00:40:38,800
that probably most people know.
868
00:40:38,800 --> 00:40:40,490
So, if you want, you can join me
869
00:40:40,490 --> 00:40:43,450
and I can show you something
pretty magnificent.
870
00:40:43,450 --> 00:40:44,283
- Oh, please, let's go
871
00:40:44,283 --> 00:40:45,116
and have a look.
- All right.
872
00:40:45,116 --> 00:40:46,109
- I'm loving this.
873
00:40:46,109 --> 00:40:46,942
What are you talking about?
874
00:40:46,942 --> 00:40:48,990
This is awesome.
- Yeah, this is great.
875
00:40:48,990 --> 00:40:51,070
- [Peter] I'm doing better
up hill than down hill.
876
00:40:51,070 --> 00:40:52,940
- Yeah, of course, everyone...
877
00:40:52,940 --> 00:40:53,773
Everyone does.
878
00:40:53,773 --> 00:40:58,773
Here, we have a room
that is called Nice Lake.
879
00:40:58,800 --> 00:40:59,633
- Yes.
880
00:40:59,633 --> 00:41:02,180
- [Vagellis] And in this
small lake, citizens
881
00:41:02,180 --> 00:41:05,430
of Mylopotamos used to
bring their kids here
882
00:41:05,430 --> 00:41:06,263
to baptise them.
883
00:41:06,263 --> 00:41:08,050
- [Peter] And so they baptised
them in this rock pool?
884
00:41:08,050 --> 00:41:11,090
- Yeah, of course, in
this exact same spot,
885
00:41:11,090 --> 00:41:13,890
so that they could have the protection
886
00:41:13,890 --> 00:41:16,613
and the help of Saint Sophia.
887
00:41:17,840 --> 00:41:19,720
- Vagellis isn't an archaeologist,
888
00:41:19,720 --> 00:41:21,360
he's a passionate local guide
889
00:41:21,360 --> 00:41:23,410
that proved a wealth of knowledge.
890
00:41:23,410 --> 00:41:25,510
But I'm not sure what he
meant by his earlier comment
891
00:41:25,510 --> 00:41:27,010
that frescos were fresh.
892
00:41:27,010 --> 00:41:28,950
Maybe something was lost in translation.
893
00:41:28,950 --> 00:41:31,140
Wow, Vagellis, this is
a deep cave, isn't it?
894
00:41:31,140 --> 00:41:33,456
- Yeah, of course, it's a very deep cave.
895
00:41:33,456 --> 00:41:34,618
- Unbelievable.
896
00:41:34,618 --> 00:41:38,451
(dramatic instrumental music)
897
00:41:44,716 --> 00:41:46,185
(Vagellis speaks in foreign language)
898
00:41:46,185 --> 00:41:47,018
- [Peter] Okay.
899
00:41:47,018 --> 00:41:47,890
- Mind your head.
- Yes.
900
00:41:49,600 --> 00:41:53,270
- Here, we have the cave's living room.
901
00:41:53,270 --> 00:41:55,750
We have the biggest room of the cave.
902
00:41:55,750 --> 00:41:58,243
And the fascinating thing about this room
903
00:41:58,243 --> 00:42:01,440
is that we can compare
the young stalactite
904
00:42:02,330 --> 00:42:04,540
with the four-million-year-old stalactite.
905
00:42:04,540 --> 00:42:05,580
- Unbelievable.
906
00:42:05,580 --> 00:42:08,100
- [Vagellis] So this is
absolutely unbelievable.
907
00:42:08,100 --> 00:42:09,260
- [Peter] And we haven't even gone
908
00:42:09,260 --> 00:42:11,500
in one tenth of the distance.
909
00:42:11,500 --> 00:42:12,333
- [Vagellis] Yeah, probably, yeah.
910
00:42:12,333 --> 00:42:13,450
Probably, yeah.
911
00:42:13,450 --> 00:42:15,270
- Well, I've got to tell you, Vagellis,
912
00:42:15,270 --> 00:42:16,540
I'm getting a bit claustrophobic.
913
00:42:16,540 --> 00:42:17,730
Do you mind if we go now?
914
00:42:17,730 --> 00:42:19,527
Because it's getting--
- Yeah, of course, of course.
915
00:42:19,527 --> 00:42:24,010
And the cave becomes more
tight from this point on, so--
916
00:42:24,010 --> 00:42:25,210
- Let's go.
- Let's go back.
917
00:42:25,210 --> 00:42:26,258
- Thank you, Vagellis.
918
00:42:26,258 --> 00:42:27,730
- I thank you.
919
00:42:27,730 --> 00:42:29,530
- [Peter] It was a relief
to get back outside
920
00:42:29,530 --> 00:42:30,730
and into the sun.
921
00:42:30,730 --> 00:42:32,870
After an hour of relative darkness,
922
00:42:32,870 --> 00:42:36,000
apart from the claustrophobia,
I was starting to feel tired.
923
00:42:36,000 --> 00:42:38,210
I couldn't fathom what it
would be like for the explorers
924
00:42:38,210 --> 00:42:41,470
who delve far deeper into the cave system.
925
00:42:41,470 --> 00:42:43,090
Speaking of exploring, next week I'm going
926
00:42:43,090 --> 00:42:45,100
to be doing plenty of exactly that.
927
00:42:45,100 --> 00:42:46,700
I'll be discovering more
of the island paradise
928
00:42:46,700 --> 00:42:48,843
of my heritage, taking in places
929
00:42:48,843 --> 00:42:51,930
that I've never seen before,
and revisiting old haunts
930
00:42:51,930 --> 00:42:54,340
to see how things have
changed over the years.
931
00:42:54,340 --> 00:42:56,590
From Kythira, I'm then
making my way to one
932
00:42:56,590 --> 00:43:00,290
of the most photographed
places in Greece: Zakynthos.
933
00:43:00,290 --> 00:43:03,310
It's the third largest
island in the Ionian,
934
00:43:03,310 --> 00:43:05,370
and a place where the
beauty of the beaches
935
00:43:05,370 --> 00:43:08,110
rivals any you'll come
across in the Mediterranean,
936
00:43:08,110 --> 00:43:09,720
and possibly the world.
937
00:43:09,720 --> 00:43:11,540
I'll also show you that
there's a lot more to it
938
00:43:11,540 --> 00:43:13,460
than just the sun and sand.
939
00:43:13,460 --> 00:43:16,740
There's also a rich history
and wild encounters to be had.
940
00:43:16,740 --> 00:43:20,710
Like most Greek islands, it
never ceases to surprise.
941
00:43:20,710 --> 00:43:23,160
For now though, it's time
to head back to Mia Zoi.
942
00:43:23,160 --> 00:43:25,530
There's one thing on my
mind and that's dinner.
943
00:43:25,530 --> 00:43:28,440
I can still smell the bamia
Kyriakos cooked earlier,
944
00:43:28,440 --> 00:43:30,230
and there's no way I'm
letting the crew eat it all
945
00:43:30,230 --> 00:43:31,510
before I get back.
946
00:43:31,510 --> 00:43:34,150
Before I left, they were
circling like vultures,
947
00:43:34,150 --> 00:43:36,850
hovering around the
kitchen with forks in hand.
948
00:43:36,850 --> 00:43:39,520
Thankfully, I had Captain
Yianni on guard duty.
949
00:43:39,520 --> 00:43:41,280
Then, again, he's
probably the one I needed
950
00:43:41,280 --> 00:43:42,465
to watch the most.
951
00:43:42,465 --> 00:43:46,132
(lively instrumental music)
952
00:44:01,115 --> 00:44:03,365
(rumbling)
73654
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