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(lighthearted music)
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- From the bustling streets of Athens
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and the historic port of Hydra,
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to the beaches of Zakynthos
and the villages of Kythira,
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00:00:29,020 --> 00:00:30,120
our journey over the coming weeks
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spans many of the Ionian Islands,
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some well-known, others
that few ever get to visit.
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But before heading off,
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you probably wanna know
a little bit about me.
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My story starts as boy growing up
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in the inner suburbs of Sydney.
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Like a lot of Greeks early last century,
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my parents moved overseas to
find a better life abroad.
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They arrived with very little
and worked extremely hard
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to give my sisters and
I a loving upbringing.
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They also made me believe that
if I too worked hard enough,
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I could achieve anything.
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54 years later, I've built
a successful business.
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And that has enabled me to do
things I once only dreamed of.
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One of those dreams was to step foot
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on all 227 inhabited Greek Islands,
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and I'm gonna take a big chunk out of that
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in this first series.
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So far, my journey has taken
me from the chaos of Athens
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to the ancient city of Epidaurus.
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It's only a very short
distance from the big smoke,
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but feels like it's a million miles away,
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and that you've stepped back in time.
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Unbelievable!
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I heard it from here!
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There are incredible sites to discover
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both above and below the water,
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with fascinating history
that tells the story
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of not only the region, but the
origins of important aspects
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of modern western civilization.
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I've also met some fantastic characters,
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particularly on Moni Island,
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where I stopped briefly
before heading to Spetses.
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To me, Spetses is the cosmopolitan
capital of this region.
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This is a beach side island
where people come here
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just to enjoy themselves,
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getting out of the heat
of Athens in the summer.
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Have a look around there,
it's just awesome, man!
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(pleasant music)
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In this episode, I'm gonna
explore more of Spetses,
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and learn about the most
significant female figure
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in Greece's maritime
history, Admiral Bouboulina.
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She was at the forefront
of the War of Independence,
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and her story has become legend.
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From here I'm heading to Hydra,
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famous for the horses and mules they use
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for transport on the island.
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But my plan is to show you
there's a whole lot more
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to the place than the tourist wants.
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It's one of those magical islands
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where you can easily
succumb to its beauty,
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and spend weeks, or in
some cases a lifetime,
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lost in its charm.
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(pleasant music)
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I've timed my visit here so
I could see the spectacle
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that is the Spetses Classic Yacht Regatta.
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It's been an annual fixture since 2011
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and in a short period of time has grown
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to become one of the most important
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and popular regattas in the Mediterranean.
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It was established in the
honour of the Spetsiot seafarers
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who fought in the 1821
Greek War of Independence,
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and today draws vessels
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and spectators from across the world.
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They all converge on this tiny island
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for a week of events and
festivities, all centred around
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the long-held maritime
traditions of Greece.
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The idea of the regatta
came from Antonis Vordonis.
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He wanted to continue the legacy
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of the boat-builders of Spetses
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and then shine a light on the island
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so outsiders would see the place he loves,
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and take the time to travel here.
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During the four days of the regatta,
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Spetses becomes the yachting
centre of the Mediterranean.
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Well, at least Greece anyway.
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With classic boats sailing alongside
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traditional Aegean schooners,
lateens and dragons,
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with the spectacular Argo-Saronic Gulf
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providing the perfect setting.
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It's a real community fair
with people coming together
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to not only compete but
celebrate their love of sailing.
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(men shouting in foreign language)
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(people clapping)
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Central to the regatta
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is the majestic Poseidonion Grand Hotel.
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It's one of the most famous
landmarks on the island
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and acts as a hub for the event.
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- As a shipping man for 42 years,
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I had this wonderful
life around the Globe,
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and I was feeling that I was so lucky
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that by travelling and
meeting and trading,
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I was carrying my country
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and all who have created
here, to the world.
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And for me, it was a great duty.
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And I felt very happy,
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just really proud for what I was doing!
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Now, that I'm here as a hotelier,
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I feel I'm doing exactly the same job
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I was doing as a shipping man.
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- Of course.
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- Then I was travelling
and conveying my country.
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Now I'm welcoming the world on this place.
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- I think you have a more
important job now as a hotelier,
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as a Spetsioti, as a Greek,
especially in these times.
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Built in 1914, this elegant hotel
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is a symbol of the cosmopolitan
life of the island.
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It was built by Sotirios Anargyros,
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a tobacco merchant who
was also a visionary.
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He had a dream for the island
to become a tourist resort
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and did much to develop Spetses
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to make it a holiday destination
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for elite and wealthy Athenians.
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Nowadays, people from all
walks of life come here.
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However, the grandeur of the Poseidonion
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harks back to a time
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when but a few could
afford such indulgences.
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Tourism here was at its peak in the '60s,
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but with the arrival of package holidays,
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visitor numbers dropped significantly
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to the point where the
hotel was abandoned.
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Today, it has been renovated
back to its former glory
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and once again is a living monument
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to the halcyon days of Spetses.
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(serene music)
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In many ways, the Poseidonion
and the regatta are akin.
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Both have a certain elegance to them
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and are intrinsic to
the island's character.
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They're symbols of times
past but also of rebirth.
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The resurrection of the hotel
is much like the restoration
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of the proud shipbuilding
industry of Spetses
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that's being inspired by the regatta
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and increased interest in the
timber boats they made here.
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Having the opportunity
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to see these magnificent
vessels ploughing the sea
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is something every sailing
enthusiast should experience,
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and over the coming days,
I'm really looking forward
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to the spectacle and
tradition of the regatta.
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(serene music)
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There's more to Spetses
than its maritime past.
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Like other Greek islands,
it has a unique food culture
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that's shaped by the people,
produce, and climate.
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(speaks in foreign language)
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To learn more about it,
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I coaxed the Poseidonian's
head chef Stamatis
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out of the kitchen and into the hills
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to show me the hotel's farm.
- We've got some peppers.
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- Tomatoes, look at these
peppers, they are awesome!
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Tomatoes!
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Oh!
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(speaks in foreign language)
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Everything here hasn't
gotten anything on it.
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It's all organic.
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No, no nothing.
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Fantastic!
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(crunches)
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I could eat here all day.
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They could leave me here,
and I'd eat everything.
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(Stamatis laughs)
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(speaks in foreign language)
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So they've got everything here!
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They've got zucchini, zucchini
flower, they've got eggplant,
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they've got all forms of lettuce,
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they've got the (speaks
in foreign language),
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the Greeks love!
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They've got small tomatoes,
they've got big tomatoes,
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they've got capsicums,
they've got peppers.
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They've got absolutely everything here.
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And what's amazing, Stamatis,
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(speaks in foreign language)
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The thing that amazes me here
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is that not only do they
produce enough for themselves,
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which I just cannot believe,
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but they are actually producing
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for some of the other shops
and restaurants around here.
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It's so good, it's fantastic.
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(speaks in foreign language)
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We're gonna go somewhere special now.
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Living on a small island,
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there's a certain amount
of self-sustainability
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that's needed in order to survive.
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Not only is it costly to get
produce from the mainland,
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but it also takes time
to ship things over,
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so essentially anything you want fresh
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needs to be grown locally.
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It was the way of my father,
and my father's father,
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for countless generations gone by.
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People have had to work hard
and managed the available land
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to grow the staples to
sustain their communities.
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Plots like these can be
found all over the place
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and without them,
there's no way the island
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could support the population
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and such a thriving tourism industry.
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(speaks in foreign language)
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There's only one egg
here and the reason is
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it's the morning and Leonidas
came and picked them up
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so that the guests can have
their eggs for the morning.
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Beautiful!
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Nice and light.
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00:08:26,041 --> 00:08:30,176
(speaks in foreign language)
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00:08:30,176 --> 00:08:31,986
(chickens clucking)
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Helen!
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Helen!
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Come here!
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Come here!
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Come here!
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Like my wife running away from me.
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(serene music)
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It's this simplicity that's
the Greece I know and love.
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The authentic, traditional,
and rustic elements
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that hark back to times when
things moved much slower,
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00:08:50,370 --> 00:08:53,050
and the world was a far wider place.
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00:08:53,050 --> 00:08:53,883
I for one love the idea
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00:08:53,883 --> 00:08:56,210
that there's a paddock to plate process
220
00:08:56,210 --> 00:08:58,360
happening right here on the island.
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00:08:58,360 --> 00:08:59,390
It's nice to know a lot
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00:08:59,390 --> 00:09:01,090
of what I'm eating
while spending time here
223
00:09:01,090 --> 00:09:03,870
has been grown in the
fertile soil on the hillsides
224
00:09:03,870 --> 00:09:06,050
and harvested only hours before.
225
00:09:06,050 --> 00:09:07,810
Not only is it fresh and healthy,
226
00:09:07,810 --> 00:09:10,030
but it means the money is
staying in the local economy.
227
00:09:10,030 --> 00:09:14,930
Mm, fresh eggs, chickens, turkey.
228
00:09:14,930 --> 00:09:16,367
I had no appetite before I got here
229
00:09:16,367 --> 00:09:17,821
and that's all changed now.
230
00:09:17,821 --> 00:09:20,769
(pleasant music)
231
00:09:20,769 --> 00:09:25,102
(transitions to lighthearted music)
232
00:09:34,519 --> 00:09:36,810
(metal clacking)
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00:09:36,810 --> 00:09:38,760
Of all of the many seafaring Spetsiots
234
00:09:38,760 --> 00:09:40,102
that have done great things,
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00:09:40,102 --> 00:09:40,935
(speaks in foreign language)
236
00:09:40,935 --> 00:09:42,860
there is a particular
individual that stands out
237
00:09:42,860 --> 00:09:44,020
and that's Admiral Bouboulina.
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Thank you very much.
239
00:09:45,250 --> 00:09:47,390
She fought during the
revolution to free Greece
240
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and was the world's first female admiral.
241
00:09:50,040 --> 00:09:52,060
She was a tough, hard-nosed woman
242
00:09:52,060 --> 00:09:54,040
that didn't take no for an answer.
243
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To learn more about her story,
I met with Philip Bouboulis,
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00:09:57,360 --> 00:10:00,013
who is a direct descendant
and also owns her house.
245
00:10:02,660 --> 00:10:03,846
We are short of guides right now.
246
00:10:03,846 --> 00:10:05,015
- Yes.
247
00:10:05,015 --> 00:10:05,860
Of course.
248
00:10:05,860 --> 00:10:09,690
- Philip, every time I think of Spetses,
249
00:10:09,690 --> 00:10:11,920
the first thing that comes
to mind is Bouboulina.
250
00:10:11,920 --> 00:10:13,160
- Well, of course.
251
00:10:13,160 --> 00:10:16,474
Spetses is known as the
Island of Bouboulina.
252
00:10:16,474 --> 00:10:17,810
(speaks in foreign language)
253
00:10:17,810 --> 00:10:19,310
It's the Island of Bouboulina.
254
00:10:20,150 --> 00:10:21,673
When you talk about Spetses,
255
00:10:22,800 --> 00:10:24,710
your thoughts goes to Bouboulina always.
256
00:10:24,710 --> 00:10:25,543
- Yeah.
257
00:10:25,543 --> 00:10:27,140
So, tell me a little bit about Bouboulina.
258
00:10:27,140 --> 00:10:27,973
- [Philip] Well, Bouboulina,
259
00:10:27,973 --> 00:10:30,300
she was one of the most important heroes
260
00:10:30,300 --> 00:10:31,840
of the Greek War of Independence.
261
00:10:31,840 --> 00:10:34,280
The only woman admiral in the world,
262
00:10:34,280 --> 00:10:37,060
she had a fleet of five, six ships.
263
00:10:37,060 --> 00:10:39,260
She led that fleet against the Turks,
264
00:10:39,260 --> 00:10:43,200
she fought mainly at Nafplion,
in the Battle of Monemvasia,
265
00:10:43,200 --> 00:10:46,550
in the Battle of Argos where
she lost her first born son,
266
00:10:46,550 --> 00:10:47,860
in the Battle of Tripolitsa
267
00:10:47,860 --> 00:10:52,400
where she saved the harem
of the Turkish ruler there.
268
00:10:52,400 --> 00:10:55,570
And she inherited much
fortune, she was married twice.
269
00:10:55,570 --> 00:10:59,320
Both her husbands very
rich captains at the time
270
00:10:59,320 --> 00:11:04,320
that died in the battles with
the pirates in those days.
271
00:11:04,380 --> 00:11:07,330
When she inherited Bouboulis,
her second husband,
272
00:11:07,330 --> 00:11:09,530
in whose house we are here now,
273
00:11:09,530 --> 00:11:14,030
she inherited in cash
only 300,000 Tallara.
274
00:11:14,030 --> 00:11:18,890
Tallara were silver Spanish sovereigns
275
00:11:18,890 --> 00:11:21,230
that they were using at the time.
276
00:11:21,230 --> 00:11:23,610
In order to make you understand
what kind of money was that,
277
00:11:23,610 --> 00:11:25,060
let me say that when Bouboulina
278
00:11:25,060 --> 00:11:27,440
built her flagship, the Agamemnon,
279
00:11:27,440 --> 00:11:28,960
which is still considered
280
00:11:28,960 --> 00:11:31,310
one of the biggest ships
in the War of Independence,
281
00:11:31,310 --> 00:11:32,696
that was built here on Spetses,
282
00:11:32,696 --> 00:11:34,830
(speaks in foreign language)
283
00:11:34,830 --> 00:11:36,380
that she'd been ordered to be completed.
284
00:11:36,380 --> 00:11:38,840
It cost Bouboulina 75,000 Tallara.
285
00:11:38,840 --> 00:11:42,600
So you can imagine how
much money was a 300,000.
286
00:11:42,600 --> 00:11:45,330
Plus the fleets, the
houses, and everything.
287
00:11:45,330 --> 00:11:47,620
So she became a very rich woman indeed.
288
00:11:47,620 --> 00:11:49,520
- [Peter] But she spent all that money
289
00:11:50,900 --> 00:11:54,240
in defending and this independence,
the War of Independence.
290
00:11:54,240 --> 00:11:56,070
- Exactly, that's her big sacrifice.
291
00:11:56,070 --> 00:11:57,060
- When I think of Bouboulina,
292
00:11:57,060 --> 00:11:59,410
I think of that wonderful
painting up there
293
00:11:59,410 --> 00:12:03,130
that shows Bouboulina, that
strong woman in the 1800s,
294
00:12:03,130 --> 00:12:04,890
when it was a man's world!
295
00:12:04,890 --> 00:12:05,723
- Exactly.
296
00:12:05,723 --> 00:12:07,520
This is a very famous
painting here in Greece.
297
00:12:07,520 --> 00:12:09,900
It's in most of the
school books and magazines
298
00:12:09,900 --> 00:12:11,340
where they talk about Bouboulina.
299
00:12:11,340 --> 00:12:13,080
The thing about this painting,
300
00:12:13,080 --> 00:12:15,840
if you go and have a closer look,
301
00:12:15,840 --> 00:12:18,700
you will notice that
all the men are scared.
302
00:12:18,700 --> 00:12:20,380
They're hiding, they are leaning backwards
303
00:12:20,380 --> 00:12:22,640
like they want to avoid something.
304
00:12:22,640 --> 00:12:25,490
Their faces, in comparison to the way
305
00:12:25,490 --> 00:12:28,343
Bouboulina is standing up fearless.
306
00:12:28,343 --> 00:12:31,670
And by the way the gun she's
holding there on that painting,
307
00:12:31,670 --> 00:12:33,450
it's sitting right behind you.
308
00:12:33,450 --> 00:12:34,283
- Oh, wow!
309
00:12:34,283 --> 00:12:35,567
- It's there above the safe, yes.
310
00:12:35,567 --> 00:12:37,520
That's her own private gun,
311
00:12:37,520 --> 00:12:40,280
so we presume it's the
one she's holding there.
312
00:12:40,280 --> 00:12:41,923
- What a beautiful.
313
00:12:42,840 --> 00:12:44,820
- [Philip] It's all gold-plated, yes.
314
00:12:44,820 --> 00:12:46,330
Let me show you some more
of the house because--
315
00:12:46,330 --> 00:12:47,163
- Oh, thank you!
316
00:12:47,163 --> 00:12:47,996
- There are four rooms
317
00:12:47,996 --> 00:12:50,440
and the history of Bouboulina
is through those four rooms.
318
00:12:50,440 --> 00:12:51,580
So follow me.
- Excellent, Philip.
319
00:12:51,580 --> 00:12:52,413
Thank you.
320
00:12:53,810 --> 00:12:55,620
The house lay in disrepair for years
321
00:12:55,620 --> 00:12:57,830
until it was inherited by Philip.
322
00:12:57,830 --> 00:13:00,090
At first he was unsure what to do with it.
323
00:13:00,090 --> 00:13:01,690
The place is huge!
324
00:13:01,690 --> 00:13:03,320
But as he explored the many rooms
325
00:13:03,320 --> 00:13:05,620
and uncovered the artefacts
that had been stored away,
326
00:13:05,620 --> 00:13:07,390
he soon realised that these were the kinds
327
00:13:07,390 --> 00:13:09,450
of things you would find in a museum.
328
00:13:09,450 --> 00:13:11,650
So naturally, he did exactly that
329
00:13:11,650 --> 00:13:14,840
so everyone could learn about
this most popular heroine.
330
00:13:14,840 --> 00:13:17,640
Sadly and really not
befitting the life she lived,
331
00:13:17,640 --> 00:13:20,090
Bouboulina was killed in a family feud.
332
00:13:20,090 --> 00:13:22,630
Her son had eloped with the
daughter of the Koutsis family,
333
00:13:22,630 --> 00:13:25,290
and when her father, along with
several armed family members
334
00:13:25,290 --> 00:13:28,033
confronted Bouboulina about
it, she was shot and killed.
335
00:13:28,033 --> 00:13:30,920
(romantic guitar music)
336
00:13:30,920 --> 00:13:33,410
- Here, you can see an
old photograph of Spetses
337
00:13:33,410 --> 00:13:35,820
taken in the middle of the 1800s.
338
00:13:35,820 --> 00:13:37,540
But the interesting thing is
339
00:13:37,540 --> 00:13:40,800
to see the thousands of
houses already been built.
340
00:13:40,800 --> 00:13:43,700
Now, don't be surprised
as Spetses in those days,
341
00:13:43,700 --> 00:13:45,390
during Bouboulina's times,
342
00:13:45,390 --> 00:13:48,200
had a local population of 18,000 people.
343
00:13:48,200 --> 00:13:52,220
- So how did Bouboulina,
Spetses, the War of Independence,
344
00:13:52,220 --> 00:13:53,210
how did it all start here?
345
00:13:53,210 --> 00:13:55,140
- Well, there were revolutions
346
00:13:55,140 --> 00:13:57,590
before the War of
Independence, which all failed
347
00:13:57,590 --> 00:13:59,703
because there was no navy in the blockade.
348
00:13:59,703 --> 00:14:02,597
Without the Navy, there
was no way we could win.
349
00:14:04,550 --> 00:14:08,790
Bouboulina raised her
own revolutionary flag
350
00:14:08,790 --> 00:14:11,320
on the main mast of her
ship, the Agememnon,
351
00:14:11,320 --> 00:14:14,770
on the 13th of March, 1821
352
00:14:14,770 --> 00:14:18,210
which is the first naval
a revolutionary flag
353
00:14:18,210 --> 00:14:20,130
in history in that time.
354
00:14:20,130 --> 00:14:22,330
So it all started from here,
355
00:14:22,330 --> 00:14:24,057
maybe from that room that we've seen,
356
00:14:24,057 --> 00:14:25,370
- Wow.
- The whole revolution,
357
00:14:25,370 --> 00:14:27,437
the naval part of it.
358
00:14:27,437 --> 00:14:28,307
And of course, Bouboulina,
359
00:14:28,307 --> 00:14:32,570
she was a leader in the
naval battles at the time.
360
00:14:32,570 --> 00:14:37,000
She was equal among men, quite
unheard being in those days.
361
00:14:37,000 --> 00:14:40,770
As I already mentioned, she
gave everything for her country.
362
00:14:40,770 --> 00:14:42,030
- At the time of the revolution,
363
00:14:42,030 --> 00:14:42,980
it's said that you can walk
364
00:14:42,980 --> 00:14:44,960
from one side of the harbour to the other,
365
00:14:44,960 --> 00:14:47,640
just by stepping from
one ship to the next.
366
00:14:47,640 --> 00:14:49,460
The fleet that had formed
was a unified front
367
00:14:49,460 --> 00:14:50,950
created by the surrounding islands
368
00:14:50,950 --> 00:14:53,800
rallying to the call to
revolt led by Bouboulina.
369
00:14:53,800 --> 00:14:55,390
Today, the museum acts as a monument
370
00:14:55,390 --> 00:14:58,560
to the proud history of Spetses
and the admiral's family.
371
00:14:58,560 --> 00:15:00,380
Philip is a fifth-generation descendant
372
00:15:00,380 --> 00:15:02,850
and when his time as the
warden of this legacy ends,
373
00:15:02,850 --> 00:15:05,800
he'll pass the mantle to his
son Pavlo to carry it forward.
374
00:15:08,121 --> 00:15:10,940
(lighthearted music)
375
00:15:10,940 --> 00:15:12,660
Believe it or not, making this show
376
00:15:12,660 --> 00:15:14,280
is actually a lot of hard work.
377
00:15:14,280 --> 00:15:17,270
Not only for the film crew,
but the crew of Mia Zoi.
378
00:15:17,270 --> 00:15:19,290
They spend their days
keeping the boat in order,
379
00:15:19,290 --> 00:15:21,350
cleaning everything
and feeding the guests.
380
00:15:21,350 --> 00:15:22,760
So when I was invited for dinner
381
00:15:22,760 --> 00:15:24,900
in the grand garden of the Posedonion,
382
00:15:24,900 --> 00:15:27,220
it was only fair that they came too,
383
00:15:27,220 --> 00:15:29,070
so we could all enjoy the experience.
384
00:15:30,260 --> 00:15:33,450
The food wasn't just your
typical Greek cuisine.
385
00:15:33,450 --> 00:15:37,640
Along with salads, feta, olive
oil were barbecued sausages,
386
00:15:37,640 --> 00:15:40,300
chicken and lamb, all done Stamatis' way.
387
00:15:40,300 --> 00:15:41,730
Of all the crew,
388
00:15:41,730 --> 00:15:44,228
it seemed Kyriakos was
enjoying it the most.
389
00:15:44,228 --> 00:15:45,960
Mind you, there is more than
390
00:15:45,960 --> 00:15:48,330
just a hint of jealousy when we eat out.
391
00:15:48,330 --> 00:15:51,130
It's like he's a cross
between my mother and my wife,
392
00:15:51,130 --> 00:15:52,800
only wanting the best for us.
393
00:15:52,800 --> 00:15:53,633
God love him!
394
00:15:53,633 --> 00:15:56,191
(pleasant music)
395
00:16:01,922 --> 00:16:06,255
(transitions to lighthearted music)
396
00:16:12,383 --> 00:16:15,200
(transitions to pleasant music)
397
00:16:15,200 --> 00:16:17,330
A week in Spetses is never enough,
398
00:16:17,330 --> 00:16:20,000
but with so much water to
cover in the month or so ahead,
399
00:16:20,000 --> 00:16:21,410
we had to make a move,
400
00:16:21,410 --> 00:16:24,600
travelling the 40 kilometres
or so back to Hydra.
401
00:16:24,600 --> 00:16:26,000
We bypassed it on the way through
402
00:16:26,000 --> 00:16:28,020
so we could make the
yacht regatta in time,
403
00:16:28,020 --> 00:16:28,853
but there was no way
404
00:16:28,853 --> 00:16:30,350
I was gonna skip the island all together.
405
00:16:30,350 --> 00:16:31,795
It's way too good to miss!
406
00:16:31,795 --> 00:16:34,545
(pleasant music)
407
00:16:36,140 --> 00:16:38,850
Hydra sits in the Aegean Sea,
just off the Peloponnese,
408
00:16:38,850 --> 00:16:41,050
between the Saronic and Argolic Gulfs,
409
00:16:41,050 --> 00:16:43,800
around 70 kilometres southwest of Athens.
410
00:16:43,800 --> 00:16:46,020
About 2,000 people live here
411
00:16:46,020 --> 00:16:47,940
but there's more than twice
that number of tourists
412
00:16:47,940 --> 00:16:50,620
visiting each day during the peak season.
413
00:16:50,620 --> 00:16:52,510
You really don't have
to travel far in Greece
414
00:16:52,510 --> 00:16:54,870
to find yourself in a place
that's completely different
415
00:16:54,870 --> 00:16:56,300
to your last port of call,
416
00:16:56,300 --> 00:16:59,560
and in the case of Hydra,
it's even more apparent.
417
00:16:59,560 --> 00:17:00,930
From the donkeys walking the streets
418
00:17:00,930 --> 00:17:02,330
to the amphitheater-like harbour
419
00:17:02,330 --> 00:17:05,050
with centuries-old homes
crowding the hillside,
420
00:17:05,050 --> 00:17:06,989
it's a special place that
seems trapped in time.
421
00:17:06,989 --> 00:17:11,280
(machine rattling)
(pleasant music)
422
00:17:11,280 --> 00:17:13,870
This is Hydra, or as the
Greeks call it Hydra.
423
00:17:13,870 --> 00:17:15,610
And what is special about Hydra,
424
00:17:15,610 --> 00:17:18,690
there are no buses, no cars,
425
00:17:18,690 --> 00:17:23,310
no taxis, no motorbikes, no bicycles.
426
00:17:23,310 --> 00:17:26,483
Just donkeys and water taxis.
427
00:17:27,340 --> 00:17:28,253
Why is that so?
428
00:17:29,450 --> 00:17:31,230
Why is this happening here?
429
00:17:31,230 --> 00:17:32,510
We're gonna find out.
430
00:17:32,510 --> 00:17:35,240
We're gonna see what's
special about Hydra.
431
00:17:35,240 --> 00:17:37,710
The harbour is the place
where all the action is.
432
00:17:37,710 --> 00:17:40,460
As tourists pour from the
ferries onto the foreshore,
433
00:17:40,460 --> 00:17:42,370
they stroll along the stone walkway
434
00:17:42,370 --> 00:17:44,170
and fill the cafes and taverns.
435
00:17:44,170 --> 00:17:45,910
Boats constantly move about the port,
436
00:17:45,910 --> 00:17:48,140
adding to the hive of
activity on the waterfront.
437
00:17:48,140 --> 00:17:51,360
It's a buzz with energy and
as cliched as it might seem,
438
00:17:51,360 --> 00:17:53,910
a donkey ride is one of
the must-dos on the island.
439
00:17:55,160 --> 00:17:56,200
Arriving in Hydra,
440
00:17:56,200 --> 00:17:58,320
the first thing I wanted
to do was meet the mayor.
441
00:17:58,320 --> 00:17:59,900
Sounds boring, I know.
442
00:17:59,900 --> 00:18:03,330
But I'd heard he was a
forward-thinking guy with big ideas,
443
00:18:03,330 --> 00:18:04,700
and at 36 years of age,
444
00:18:04,700 --> 00:18:06,800
he's one of the youngest mayors in Greece.
445
00:18:06,800 --> 00:18:08,740
What I discovered was
a man of great passion
446
00:18:08,740 --> 00:18:10,100
with a vision for the future
447
00:18:10,100 --> 00:18:12,890
that maintained Hydra's old-world charm,
448
00:18:12,890 --> 00:18:14,790
while bringing it into the 21st century.
449
00:18:14,790 --> 00:18:16,510
George, apart from the obvious,
450
00:18:16,510 --> 00:18:18,290
what impresses me about this island
451
00:18:18,290 --> 00:18:22,100
is the cleanliness and
also the architecture.
452
00:18:22,100 --> 00:18:24,480
I feel like I could be
walking through Hydra
453
00:18:24,480 --> 00:18:26,240
200 years ago right now.
454
00:18:26,240 --> 00:18:27,600
- You are absolutely right,
455
00:18:27,600 --> 00:18:29,630
because the architecture of the island
456
00:18:29,630 --> 00:18:32,550
is exactly the same as
it was 200 years ago.
457
00:18:32,550 --> 00:18:33,670
The houses that you can see,
458
00:18:33,670 --> 00:18:36,140
they were in existence 200 years ago.
459
00:18:36,140 --> 00:18:40,115
Because according to Greek
law, which protects Hydra,
460
00:18:40,115 --> 00:18:41,410
you are not allowed to build a new house,
461
00:18:41,410 --> 00:18:43,170
just renovate an old one.
462
00:18:43,170 --> 00:18:44,380
So it means that everything
463
00:18:44,380 --> 00:18:47,517
that was back in place 200
years ago is still around
464
00:18:47,517 --> 00:18:48,890
and has been maintained.
465
00:18:48,890 --> 00:18:49,860
- Impressive.
466
00:18:49,860 --> 00:18:51,630
They are proud people, Hydriots.
467
00:18:51,630 --> 00:18:53,330
- Absolutely, they are very proud.
468
00:18:54,708 --> 00:18:56,050
(speaks in foreign language)
469
00:18:56,050 --> 00:18:59,853
It's very beautiful and as you can see,
470
00:19:00,780 --> 00:19:04,500
when you get away from the
port, Hydra is full of steps
471
00:19:04,500 --> 00:19:07,360
because of its
amphitheatrical construction.
472
00:19:07,360 --> 00:19:11,300
So this is the reason why
it's a car-free island
473
00:19:12,213 --> 00:19:15,180
and the Greek state
wants to maintain that.
474
00:19:15,180 --> 00:19:16,013
- The streets are designed
475
00:19:16,013 --> 00:19:18,420
to allow a mule and a human to pass.
476
00:19:18,420 --> 00:19:20,820
It's been like this for the last 200 years
477
00:19:20,820 --> 00:19:23,070
and I can't see it
changing for the next 200.
478
00:19:24,227 --> 00:19:27,700
George, I've seen the
mules lifting bricks,
479
00:19:27,700 --> 00:19:32,383
cement, grocery shopping,
pedestrians, luggage.
480
00:19:33,240 --> 00:19:36,040
- Yes, this is our taxi.
481
00:19:36,040 --> 00:19:37,324
If you arrive in Hydra,
482
00:19:37,324 --> 00:19:38,805
because you are going to stay in a hotel
483
00:19:38,805 --> 00:19:42,070
and we say it's far away,
instead of calling a taxi,
484
00:19:42,070 --> 00:19:45,900
you are calling a mule with
his owner to carry your luggage
485
00:19:45,900 --> 00:19:48,490
through the place you are going to stay.
486
00:19:48,490 --> 00:19:51,050
Sometimes, there are adverts on internet,
487
00:19:51,050 --> 00:19:54,030
if you want to have
everything done for you
488
00:19:54,030 --> 00:19:55,040
before you arrive in Hydra.
489
00:19:55,040 --> 00:19:56,560
- So I can get online and get my mule
490
00:19:56,560 --> 00:19:57,510
to come meet me at the port.
491
00:19:57,510 --> 00:19:59,557
- Yes, absolutely.
- Unbelievable.
492
00:19:59,557 --> 00:20:01,130
Unbelievable! (laughs)
493
00:20:01,130 --> 00:20:02,257
That's fantastic!
494
00:20:04,137 --> 00:20:07,240
- In Hydra, it's a place
of very influential people,
495
00:20:07,240 --> 00:20:08,750
the best place, and also the place
496
00:20:08,750 --> 00:20:11,750
where people came here to create.
497
00:20:11,750 --> 00:20:14,830
Leonard Cohen arrived in 1960,
498
00:20:14,830 --> 00:20:16,140
Sophia Loren was here
499
00:20:17,209 --> 00:20:19,317
for the production of the
film a Boy on a Dolphin.
500
00:20:19,317 --> 00:20:22,708
It was the first Hollywood
production all over Greece.
501
00:20:22,708 --> 00:20:23,541
And for example,
502
00:20:23,541 --> 00:20:25,840
this is the mansion of
Lazaros Koundouriotis
503
00:20:25,840 --> 00:20:28,510
who was our leader during the
Greek War of Independence.
504
00:20:28,510 --> 00:20:29,500
- [Peter] Right.
505
00:20:29,500 --> 00:20:30,333
- [George] It's amazing history.
506
00:20:30,333 --> 00:20:32,880
This house, you can pay a visit.
507
00:20:32,880 --> 00:20:34,310
It works as a museum
508
00:20:34,310 --> 00:20:36,320
and there are a lot of personal elements
509
00:20:36,320 --> 00:20:37,300
of Lazaros Koundouriotis.
510
00:20:37,300 --> 00:20:38,640
- [Peter] So anybody can
come into this house?
511
00:20:38,640 --> 00:20:39,473
- [George] Absolutely, yes.
512
00:20:39,473 --> 00:20:40,306
- Fantastic!
513
00:20:41,353 --> 00:20:42,350
(romantic guitar music)
514
00:20:42,350 --> 00:20:44,150
You'll learn a little more about Lazaros,
515
00:20:44,150 --> 00:20:46,490
the former owner of this
house, later in this episode.
516
00:20:46,490 --> 00:20:49,000
He's the one-eyed guy that
was blinded by chickpeas.
517
00:20:49,000 --> 00:20:50,044
You'll see what I mean.
518
00:20:50,044 --> 00:20:53,377
(romantic guitar music)
519
00:20:55,195 --> 00:20:57,160
By the left, this is a
special house of Hydra.
520
00:20:57,160 --> 00:21:00,580
This is the house of Leonard Cohen.
521
00:21:00,580 --> 00:21:04,430
He bought this house in 1960 with $12,500.
522
00:21:04,430 --> 00:21:06,620
During the '60s, he made
a lot of his work here.
523
00:21:06,620 --> 00:21:08,700
He used to party with the local people,
524
00:21:08,700 --> 00:21:10,890
he used to go to local taverns,
525
00:21:10,890 --> 00:21:14,800
and even one of his poems is
dedicated to a local tavern.
526
00:21:14,800 --> 00:21:15,980
And if you go to this tavern,
527
00:21:15,980 --> 00:21:18,730
on the menu, you will see his poem.
528
00:21:18,730 --> 00:21:20,380
It has been dedicated to the island.
529
00:21:20,380 --> 00:21:21,610
So we are very honoured
530
00:21:21,610 --> 00:21:25,560
to have Leonard Cohen
with us for so many years.
531
00:21:25,560 --> 00:21:26,890
- [Peter] A lot of inspiration here.
532
00:21:26,890 --> 00:21:28,400
- A lot of inspiration.
533
00:21:28,400 --> 00:21:30,300
He created a lot of things in this house.
534
00:21:30,300 --> 00:21:31,360
- But he's not the only one.
535
00:21:31,360 --> 00:21:32,903
There's plenty of writers,
there's plenty of--
536
00:21:32,903 --> 00:21:35,850
- Yes, this is the island of inspiration,
537
00:21:35,850 --> 00:21:38,900
of artists, of painters, of writers.
538
00:21:38,900 --> 00:21:42,460
They are spending time
here throughout the years,
539
00:21:42,460 --> 00:21:43,810
and they make their work.
540
00:21:43,810 --> 00:21:46,300
- George, I'm starting
to feel that inspiration
541
00:21:46,300 --> 00:21:51,300
that many writers, artists,
and poets got from Hydra.
542
00:21:51,640 --> 00:21:53,530
It's oozing through my body now.
543
00:21:53,530 --> 00:21:54,990
- Yes, this is common knowledge.
544
00:21:54,990 --> 00:21:55,971
- [George] And a lot of other people
545
00:21:55,971 --> 00:21:58,763
who realised how unique this island is.
546
00:21:58,763 --> 00:22:02,096
(romantic guitar music)
547
00:22:06,190 --> 00:22:08,910
- The hillsides are a complete
contrast to the harbour.
548
00:22:08,910 --> 00:22:12,120
Down below, it's buzzing with
energy and crowds of people,
549
00:22:12,120 --> 00:22:15,210
but a short stroll up the
stairs into the urban area,
550
00:22:15,210 --> 00:22:17,230
you have peace and quiet.
551
00:22:17,230 --> 00:22:18,450
From here you would never know
552
00:22:18,450 --> 00:22:20,973
that thousands of people
visit Hydra every day.
553
00:22:22,060 --> 00:22:24,900
I can see why artists
find themselves here.
554
00:22:24,900 --> 00:22:28,170
There is a calmness about
it that allows you to think,
555
00:22:28,170 --> 00:22:30,210
and being surrounded by so much history
556
00:22:30,210 --> 00:22:34,030
and stunning scenery, you
become inspired to create.
557
00:22:34,030 --> 00:22:36,610
There's even a well-known
Australian writer, George Johnson,
558
00:22:36,610 --> 00:22:39,560
who came here and never left.
559
00:22:39,560 --> 00:22:42,560
I have to admit though, all
those stairs and having no car
560
00:22:42,560 --> 00:22:45,050
would do my head in pretty quickly.
561
00:22:45,050 --> 00:22:46,300
However, the scenery is something
562
00:22:46,300 --> 00:22:47,935
I would never grow tired of.
563
00:22:47,935 --> 00:22:51,268
(romantic guitar music)
564
00:22:55,346 --> 00:22:59,679
(transitions to lighthearted music)
565
00:23:06,530 --> 00:23:09,330
(horn honking)
566
00:23:09,330 --> 00:23:12,150
Because Hydra is only a
90-minute boat ride from Athens,
567
00:23:12,150 --> 00:23:14,680
it's a place that many Greeks
visit for the weekends.
568
00:23:14,680 --> 00:23:17,230
Add into the mix the
tourists from further abroad
569
00:23:17,230 --> 00:23:18,460
and you've got a whole lot of people
570
00:23:18,460 --> 00:23:20,290
coming and going from a small port.
571
00:23:20,290 --> 00:23:22,810
What often ensues is chaos on the water
572
00:23:22,810 --> 00:23:25,440
and it's the job of
Pandelis, the harbour master,
573
00:23:25,440 --> 00:23:27,640
to create some sort of order from it all.
574
00:23:27,640 --> 00:23:29,330
I don't know how he does it!
575
00:23:29,330 --> 00:23:32,290
You've got fishermen, yachts, ferries,
576
00:23:32,290 --> 00:23:34,620
and water taxis all vying for a berth.
577
00:23:34,620 --> 00:23:36,540
And it's not uncommon to see altercations
578
00:23:36,540 --> 00:23:39,160
in different languages as arguments erupt
579
00:23:39,160 --> 00:23:41,090
in the battle for space in the harbour.
580
00:23:41,090 --> 00:23:43,670
It's live theatre and if
you wanna enjoy the show,
581
00:23:43,670 --> 00:23:46,260
I suggest you come down between
nine and 10 in the morning,
582
00:23:46,260 --> 00:23:49,910
sit down, grab a coffee,
and watch it all unfold.
583
00:23:49,910 --> 00:23:52,330
When do you think is the
busiest time in Hydra?
584
00:23:52,330 --> 00:23:53,163
- It is always busy.
585
00:23:53,163 --> 00:23:54,451
- Always busy.
586
00:23:54,451 --> 00:23:55,440
- We have a very long season.
587
00:23:55,440 --> 00:23:58,290
It starts from the (speaks
in foreign language)
588
00:23:58,290 --> 00:23:59,210
towards the end of March
589
00:23:59,210 --> 00:24:00,950
and goes through the middle of November.
590
00:24:00,950 --> 00:24:01,783
- Yes.
591
00:24:01,783 --> 00:24:02,616
And are you a Hydrian?
592
00:24:02,616 --> 00:24:03,499
Are you from Hydra?
593
00:24:03,499 --> 00:24:05,230
- Oh no, I am, but I grew up in America.
594
00:24:05,230 --> 00:24:06,063
- You grew up in America?
595
00:24:06,063 --> 00:24:07,250
Where in America did you grow up?
596
00:24:07,250 --> 00:24:08,118
- New York.
597
00:24:08,118 --> 00:24:08,951
- New York!
598
00:24:08,951 --> 00:24:09,910
- Guilty.
599
00:24:09,910 --> 00:24:11,483
- So you were born here?
600
00:24:11,483 --> 00:24:12,316
- Yes, yes.
601
00:24:12,316 --> 00:24:13,540
- And you grew up in New York.
602
00:24:13,540 --> 00:24:15,550
How old were you when
you went to New York?
603
00:24:15,550 --> 00:24:17,340
- Around 16.
604
00:24:17,340 --> 00:24:18,173
- 16.
605
00:24:18,173 --> 00:24:19,829
How long were you in New York for?
606
00:24:19,829 --> 00:24:20,662
- 25 years.
607
00:24:20,662 --> 00:24:21,495
- [Peter] 25 years.
608
00:24:21,495 --> 00:24:22,328
But it says Vietnam Vet!
609
00:24:22,328 --> 00:24:23,161
Are you a Vietnam Veteran?
610
00:24:23,161 --> 00:24:23,994
- Yes, I served.
611
00:24:23,994 --> 00:24:25,910
I served The United States Army.
612
00:24:25,910 --> 00:24:26,743
- Is that right?
613
00:24:26,743 --> 00:24:27,576
In Vietnam?
614
00:24:27,576 --> 00:24:28,409
Wow!
615
00:24:28,409 --> 00:24:30,720
It's good to meet an ex-soldier
that served his country.
616
00:24:30,720 --> 00:24:32,280
You served the American?
617
00:24:32,280 --> 00:24:35,522
- Twice, in the Greek
Navy and The US Army.
618
00:24:35,522 --> 00:24:37,173
- In The US Army and the Greek Navy!
619
00:24:37,173 --> 00:24:38,006
- Yes, the Greek Navy.
620
00:24:38,006 --> 00:24:38,950
- Well, I'm proud to meet you Pandelis.
621
00:24:38,950 --> 00:24:40,190
- Thank you.
- You're a good man,
622
00:24:40,190 --> 00:24:42,540
having served twice for
two different countries!
623
00:24:42,540 --> 00:24:43,373
That's very rare!
624
00:24:43,373 --> 00:24:45,140
- It happens, it happens.
625
00:24:45,140 --> 00:24:46,020
- Even though Hydra's port
626
00:24:46,020 --> 00:24:48,050
is the most chaotic in all of Greece,
627
00:24:48,050 --> 00:24:49,750
Pandelis is like a little general.
628
00:24:49,750 --> 00:24:52,210
He knows everyone, and
somehow manages the madness
629
00:24:52,210 --> 00:24:54,000
and keeps it a happy place.
630
00:24:54,000 --> 00:24:54,960
He's been here so long,
631
00:24:54,960 --> 00:24:56,706
he's practically a permanent fixture.
632
00:24:56,706 --> 00:25:00,250
(pleasant music)
633
00:25:00,250 --> 00:25:01,730
Similar to how there's a small amount
634
00:25:01,730 --> 00:25:04,250
of subsistence agriculture
happening on the island,
635
00:25:04,250 --> 00:25:05,810
there's also a fishery that has existed
636
00:25:05,810 --> 00:25:07,863
as long as there has
been a settlement here.
637
00:25:08,880 --> 00:25:10,413
This is the commercial harbour of Hydra,
638
00:25:10,413 --> 00:25:14,760
with the donkeys, the
ferries, the sailing boats.
639
00:25:14,760 --> 00:25:16,240
But we've also got the fishing boats,
640
00:25:16,240 --> 00:25:18,150
and the fisherman has
just come back with fish.
641
00:25:18,150 --> 00:25:19,850
And he's selling it to the locals.
642
00:25:20,795 --> 00:25:23,000
The fishing boats are moored
amongst the tourist vessels
643
00:25:23,000 --> 00:25:25,100
and although stocks have declined a lot,
644
00:25:25,100 --> 00:25:27,520
they continue to work the surrounding sea,
645
00:25:27,520 --> 00:25:29,630
catching fish like small reef dwellers
646
00:25:29,630 --> 00:25:33,275
or these Barbounia, or as
we know them, red mullet.
647
00:25:33,275 --> 00:25:35,530
(speaks in foreign language)
648
00:25:35,530 --> 00:25:38,300
We've got here 30 euros for 1 1/2 kilos.
649
00:25:38,300 --> 00:25:40,078
- In Athens, (speaks in foreign language).
650
00:25:40,078 --> 00:25:40,911
- In Athens?
651
00:25:40,911 --> 00:25:42,628
(speaks in foreign language)
652
00:25:42,628 --> 00:25:44,417
50 Euros in Athens?
653
00:25:44,417 --> 00:25:48,718
(speaks in foreign language)
654
00:25:48,718 --> 00:25:49,551
Yeah, on the fry pan
655
00:25:49,551 --> 00:25:51,118
'cause they're moist in a beautiful way.
656
00:25:51,118 --> 00:25:52,560
(speaks in foreign language)
657
00:25:52,560 --> 00:25:53,773
It's sweet, sweet this Barbounia.
658
00:25:53,773 --> 00:25:55,746
This Barbounia is the
Greek fish, isn't it?
659
00:25:55,746 --> 00:25:57,154
- No.
- It's the Greek Fish.
660
00:25:57,154 --> 00:26:01,096
(speaks in foreign language)
661
00:26:01,096 --> 00:26:03,763
(both laughing)
662
00:26:08,509 --> 00:26:10,800
Is that what he's saying
is the Greeks say that
663
00:26:10,800 --> 00:26:14,230
when you've got a Barbounia
in the house, the cats starve.
664
00:26:14,230 --> 00:26:17,100
Because we eat the whole fish,
the tail, the head, the lot.
665
00:26:17,100 --> 00:26:19,758
Awesome, eh? (laughs)
666
00:26:19,758 --> 00:26:21,200
(serene music)
667
00:26:21,200 --> 00:26:23,490
These cats clearly had high hopes.
668
00:26:23,490 --> 00:26:24,523
One day, fellas.
669
00:26:26,226 --> 00:26:28,410
It gets pretty warm in Hydra.
670
00:26:28,410 --> 00:26:29,710
In Greece generally.
671
00:26:29,710 --> 00:26:30,900
You need to drink water,
672
00:26:30,900 --> 00:26:34,106
also need a sugar hit every now and then.
673
00:26:34,106 --> 00:26:36,443
Here's the shop I have been
looking for for about an hour.
674
00:26:37,330 --> 00:26:39,289
Almond sweets to die for.
675
00:26:39,289 --> 00:26:41,094
(serene music)
676
00:26:41,094 --> 00:26:42,540
(speaks in foreign language)
677
00:26:42,540 --> 00:26:44,180
I've gotta try these things.
678
00:26:44,180 --> 00:26:46,720
They are well-known to be awesome.
679
00:26:46,720 --> 00:26:48,067
Everybody talks about them.
680
00:26:48,067 --> 00:26:50,850
I'm just gonna cut that
open and have a look inside.
681
00:26:50,850 --> 00:26:51,683
Have a look at that.
682
00:26:51,683 --> 00:26:54,048
That is absolutely smashing, Hydra.
683
00:26:54,048 --> 00:26:56,650
(pleasant music)
684
00:26:56,650 --> 00:26:58,847
It's called an almond sweet.
685
00:26:58,847 --> 00:26:59,680
- Almond.
686
00:26:59,680 --> 00:27:01,307
- Almond sweet, mm!
687
00:27:01,307 --> 00:27:03,960
(speaks in foreign language)
688
00:27:03,960 --> 00:27:05,646
What's it got inside?
689
00:27:05,646 --> 00:27:06,979
(speaks in foreign language)
690
00:27:06,979 --> 00:27:07,812
Almonds.
691
00:27:09,222 --> 00:27:10,130
(speaks in foreign language)
692
00:27:10,130 --> 00:27:11,531
Sugar.
693
00:27:11,531 --> 00:27:13,210
(speaks in foreign language)
694
00:27:13,210 --> 00:27:14,760
- Rose water.
- Rose water.
695
00:27:14,760 --> 00:27:18,466
- The flower water,
rose water is the same.
696
00:27:18,466 --> 00:27:22,408
(speaks in foreign language)
697
00:27:22,408 --> 00:27:23,525
- And Semolina.
698
00:27:23,525 --> 00:27:27,275
(speaks in foreign language)
699
00:27:34,920 --> 00:27:37,614
He can't tell us the exact
ingredients, he won't tell us.
700
00:27:37,614 --> 00:27:41,364
(speaks in foreign language)
701
00:27:58,550 --> 00:28:02,680
So his grandfather went
from Hydra to America,
702
00:28:02,680 --> 00:28:06,080
came back, opened the shop in 1930.
703
00:28:06,080 --> 00:28:08,340
Kyriacos' father then took it over,
704
00:28:08,340 --> 00:28:12,683
and now his bright-looking
young son is involved as well.
705
00:28:13,593 --> 00:28:16,663
(speaks in foreign language)
706
00:28:16,663 --> 00:28:18,200
Four generations!
707
00:28:18,200 --> 00:28:19,056
Four generations.
708
00:28:19,056 --> 00:28:22,806
(speaks in foreign language)
709
00:28:24,923 --> 00:28:28,280
So Dimitri is 25 and he's a good chef,
710
00:28:28,280 --> 00:28:30,060
and he makes the best
(speaks in foreign language)
711
00:28:30,060 --> 00:28:32,040
in Hydra, possibly Greece.
712
00:28:32,040 --> 00:28:33,565
He's single, he's looking for a girl.
713
00:28:33,565 --> 00:28:35,490
(speaks in foreign language)
714
00:28:35,490 --> 00:28:37,750
(everyone laughs)
715
00:28:37,750 --> 00:28:40,140
If you're on a diet, then skip this place.
716
00:28:40,140 --> 00:28:41,600
The sweets are amazing
717
00:28:41,600 --> 00:28:44,730
and there are all sorts
of different ones to try.
718
00:28:44,730 --> 00:28:46,210
So when you come to Hydra,
719
00:28:46,210 --> 00:28:47,970
you've gotta have the almond sweets.
720
00:28:47,970 --> 00:28:49,403
They are absolutely awesome.
721
00:28:50,290 --> 00:28:51,750
Unfortunately, I can't
have too many of these.
722
00:28:51,750 --> 00:28:53,629
These are for my guests,
they're not for me.
723
00:28:53,629 --> 00:28:56,212
(serene music)
724
00:29:06,270 --> 00:29:09,960
The beautiful thing about
Hydra is everything's close.
725
00:29:09,960 --> 00:29:14,090
And after a hot day,
what's better than a swim?
726
00:29:14,090 --> 00:29:16,720
There's this beautiful swimming hole
727
00:29:16,720 --> 00:29:18,390
200 metres from the port.
728
00:29:18,390 --> 00:29:20,253
It's where I'm going now to cool off.
729
00:29:22,130 --> 00:29:23,270
Wow.
730
00:29:23,270 --> 00:29:25,328
This is just such a special spot.
731
00:29:25,328 --> 00:29:28,328
(people chattering)
732
00:29:30,640 --> 00:29:31,763
Look at this.
733
00:29:31,763 --> 00:29:32,760
(blows raspberries)
734
00:29:32,760 --> 00:29:33,593
I'm going.
735
00:29:36,340 --> 00:29:38,490
This swimming hole is far from a secret.
736
00:29:38,490 --> 00:29:39,750
It's near the mouth of the harbour
737
00:29:39,750 --> 00:29:41,750
and about 200 metres away from the statue
738
00:29:41,750 --> 00:29:43,090
of The Boy on a Dolphin,
739
00:29:43,090 --> 00:29:45,270
which is a film starring Sophia Loren.
740
00:29:45,270 --> 00:29:47,250
It was actually the
first Hollywood feature
741
00:29:47,250 --> 00:29:50,150
to be filmed in Greece, back in 1957.
742
00:29:50,150 --> 00:29:52,980
It's a great romance story of
a poor sponge diver from Hydra
743
00:29:52,980 --> 00:29:55,180
that finds a statue of
a boy riding a dolphin
744
00:29:55,180 --> 00:29:56,530
on the bottom of the Aegean.
745
00:29:56,530 --> 00:29:57,970
I won't go into any more detail
746
00:29:57,970 --> 00:29:59,680
because I don't want to spoil it for you,
747
00:29:59,680 --> 00:30:01,470
but it's well worth a watch.
748
00:30:01,470 --> 00:30:03,070
It's also well worth you making the time
749
00:30:03,070 --> 00:30:05,100
to come to this little spot for some fun.
750
00:30:05,100 --> 00:30:06,890
It brings out the inner child.
751
00:30:06,890 --> 00:30:08,630
Come to think of it, I'm probably older
752
00:30:08,630 --> 00:30:10,819
than the combined age
of everyone else here.
753
00:30:10,819 --> 00:30:13,402
(serene music)
754
00:30:14,275 --> 00:30:15,355
(water splashing)
755
00:30:15,355 --> 00:30:18,438
(lighthearted music)
756
00:30:34,860 --> 00:30:37,060
Every morning before
most people are awake,
757
00:30:37,060 --> 00:30:39,450
the harbour promenade
is a hive of activity.
758
00:30:39,450 --> 00:30:40,600
All the stuff that's shipped
759
00:30:40,600 --> 00:30:42,800
in from outside of Hydra
is quickly unloaded
760
00:30:42,800 --> 00:30:46,020
and transferred to the
restaurants, hotels, shops,
761
00:30:46,020 --> 00:30:48,430
and taverns before the crowds arrive.
762
00:30:48,430 --> 00:30:51,340
I've been to a lot of
ports around the world,
763
00:30:51,340 --> 00:30:53,920
but I've never been to a port like Hydra.
764
00:30:53,920 --> 00:30:55,461
What's happening here has been happening
765
00:30:55,461 --> 00:30:57,700
for 400 years, the same way,
766
00:30:57,700 --> 00:30:59,940
with the exception of the
mechanised stuff over there,
767
00:30:59,940 --> 00:31:01,920
and we've got a donkey
coming in behind us.
768
00:31:01,920 --> 00:31:04,110
All the stalls get loaded on these guys.
769
00:31:04,110 --> 00:31:06,440
If you want to take your
shopping to your house up there,
770
00:31:06,440 --> 00:31:07,800
you put it on a donkey.
771
00:31:07,800 --> 00:31:11,170
If you wanna take your bricks,
your construction materials,
772
00:31:11,170 --> 00:31:13,690
your food, it all goes on these donkeys
773
00:31:13,690 --> 00:31:16,000
and it gets taken up the
hills, into the houses,
774
00:31:16,000 --> 00:31:17,600
into the supermarkets.
775
00:31:17,600 --> 00:31:19,890
And it happens every single morning
776
00:31:19,890 --> 00:31:22,260
of every single day of the year.
777
00:31:22,260 --> 00:31:24,550
These poor little guys
and gals, they work hard.
778
00:31:24,550 --> 00:31:26,320
I actually feel sorry for 'em.
779
00:31:26,320 --> 00:31:27,850
But that's how they earn their living.
780
00:31:27,850 --> 00:31:29,840
It's in the morning, that's what they do.
781
00:31:29,840 --> 00:31:31,330
Their pals do something else,
782
00:31:31,330 --> 00:31:33,143
and we're gonna go and
have a look at them soon.
783
00:31:34,465 --> 00:31:36,276
(romantic guitar music)
784
00:31:36,276 --> 00:31:38,320
There's a reason that like an ox,
785
00:31:38,320 --> 00:31:41,490
donkeys and mules are
known as beasts of burden.
786
00:31:41,490 --> 00:31:42,990
Their ability to carry heavy loads
787
00:31:42,990 --> 00:31:45,490
make them perfect in a place like this,
788
00:31:45,490 --> 00:31:47,810
and as much as it might
seem like a hard life,
789
00:31:47,810 --> 00:31:51,040
they're treated incredibly
well and respected by everyone.
790
00:31:51,040 --> 00:31:52,520
It's amazing to see just how much
791
00:31:52,520 --> 00:31:54,850
they can cart up and
down the narrow streets.
792
00:31:54,850 --> 00:31:57,840
Without them, it would all be done by hand
793
00:31:57,840 --> 00:32:00,150
and more than likely, they
would need to modernise the town
794
00:32:00,150 --> 00:32:03,230
and allow for vehicles,
which would be a real shame
795
00:32:03,230 --> 00:32:06,440
and likely destroy the age-old
character of the island.
796
00:32:06,440 --> 00:32:09,000
Apart from moving building
materials and the like,
797
00:32:09,000 --> 00:32:11,040
they also cart tourists around,
798
00:32:11,040 --> 00:32:13,670
and as I said earlier,
you haven't been to Hydra
799
00:32:13,670 --> 00:32:15,560
if you haven't ridden a donkey.
800
00:32:15,560 --> 00:32:17,814
Or as it turns out, a mule or horse.
801
00:32:17,814 --> 00:32:21,820
(romantic guitar music)
802
00:32:21,820 --> 00:32:24,050
George, someone told me
that these were donkeys,
803
00:32:24,050 --> 00:32:25,130
and I've always thought they were donkeys,
804
00:32:25,130 --> 00:32:26,203
but they're not donkeys, are they?
805
00:32:26,203 --> 00:32:28,880
- Not donkeys, this is a mule, the horse.
806
00:32:28,880 --> 00:32:31,507
The horse, the mule too much strong.
807
00:32:31,507 --> 00:32:33,810
- The mule and the horse is
stronger than the donkey.
808
00:32:33,810 --> 00:32:34,840
And that's why we have mules--
809
00:32:34,840 --> 00:32:35,810
- Donkey no good.
810
00:32:35,810 --> 00:32:37,030
Donkeys are small.
811
00:32:37,030 --> 00:32:39,730
- Okay, and how long have
you been doing this for?
812
00:32:39,730 --> 00:32:40,920
- Me?
- Yeah.
813
00:32:40,920 --> 00:32:43,017
- Ooh, ah, 10 years.
814
00:32:43,017 --> 00:32:44,240
- 10 years?
- Yeah.
815
00:32:44,240 --> 00:32:46,790
- And how many mules and
horses are there on Hydra?
816
00:32:48,109 --> 00:32:49,320
- 700.
817
00:32:49,320 --> 00:32:50,800
- 700? 700?
- Yes, everything.
818
00:32:50,800 --> 00:32:53,070
Horse, the mule, the donkey, yes.
819
00:32:53,070 --> 00:32:54,200
- [Peter] Do they get to rest?
820
00:32:54,200 --> 00:32:56,048
Do they get to rest, the mules?
821
00:32:56,048 --> 00:32:57,258
- Yeah.
- Yeah.
822
00:32:57,258 --> 00:33:00,670
(speaks in foreign language)
823
00:33:00,670 --> 00:33:01,760
Ah, okay.
824
00:33:01,760 --> 00:33:05,510
(speaks in foreign language)
825
00:33:08,500 --> 00:33:09,750
So, they do get a rest.
826
00:33:09,750 --> 00:33:11,251
You change them over, you change them up,
827
00:33:11,251 --> 00:33:12,210
so they're not working hard.
828
00:33:12,210 --> 00:33:13,650
But it's in the sun,
it's very hot for them,
829
00:33:13,650 --> 00:33:15,406
all day here in the sun?
830
00:33:15,406 --> 00:33:17,470
(speaks in foreign language)
831
00:33:17,470 --> 00:33:20,400
This is their zone,
they are Hydriot mules.
832
00:33:20,400 --> 00:33:21,749
Yeah, they've been doing this for--
833
00:33:21,749 --> 00:33:22,664
(speaks in foreign language)
834
00:33:22,664 --> 00:33:23,497
Yes, okay.
835
00:33:23,497 --> 00:33:25,822
(speaks in foreign language)
836
00:33:25,822 --> 00:33:27,553
Yes, yes, yes.
837
00:33:27,553 --> 00:33:29,840
(speaks in foreign language)
838
00:33:29,840 --> 00:33:30,786
Fantastic.
839
00:33:30,786 --> 00:33:34,536
(speaks in foreign language)
840
00:33:35,756 --> 00:33:37,259
You've got to look after them.
841
00:33:37,259 --> 00:33:38,092
(speaks in foreign language)
842
00:33:38,092 --> 00:33:39,960
This is your business, that's right.
843
00:33:39,960 --> 00:33:41,770
This is your equity, isn't it?
844
00:33:41,770 --> 00:33:43,680
Of course, so you've
gotta look after them.
845
00:33:43,680 --> 00:33:45,903
Well, they're a fine
bunch of mules and horses.
846
00:33:45,903 --> 00:33:48,020
(speaks in foreign language)
847
00:33:48,020 --> 00:33:49,580
Yes, of course.
848
00:33:49,580 --> 00:33:52,480
These animals are loved
and very well looked after.
849
00:33:52,480 --> 00:33:53,810
They're constantly rotated
850
00:33:53,810 --> 00:33:55,440
so they have a few days off a week.
851
00:33:55,440 --> 00:33:58,130
As George said, this is their livelihood
852
00:33:58,130 --> 00:34:00,060
and they have to take care of the animals,
853
00:34:00,060 --> 00:34:02,430
so the animals can take care of them.
854
00:34:02,430 --> 00:34:04,880
These guys have been doing
the job for generations,
855
00:34:04,880 --> 00:34:06,680
making a humble living from a profession
856
00:34:06,680 --> 00:34:09,510
that's existed almost
as long as the town has.
857
00:34:09,510 --> 00:34:11,940
It's a way of life that has
a simple charm about it,
858
00:34:11,940 --> 00:34:14,013
like being a shepherd or a farmer.
859
00:34:15,308 --> 00:34:17,980
There's a lot more to Hydra
than just the port area.
860
00:34:17,980 --> 00:34:20,040
The mountainous countryside
that surrounds the town
861
00:34:20,040 --> 00:34:22,110
is also great to explore.
862
00:34:22,110 --> 00:34:25,090
The dry, rocky slopes provide
stunning views of the island,
863
00:34:25,090 --> 00:34:27,963
and there's only one way
to see them, on horseback.
864
00:34:29,210 --> 00:34:30,590
Showing me around was Harriet.
865
00:34:30,590 --> 00:34:32,330
You'll soon hear by her accent
866
00:34:32,330 --> 00:34:34,100
that she's not a born-and-bred local.
867
00:34:34,100 --> 00:34:34,933
When Harriet was 10,
868
00:34:34,933 --> 00:34:37,240
she and her mother
moved here from England.
869
00:34:37,240 --> 00:34:39,900
Her mother has since moved
back, but 18 years on,
870
00:34:39,900 --> 00:34:41,700
Harriet has married a local builder
871
00:34:41,700 --> 00:34:44,271
and has a small business
taking people on horse rides.
872
00:34:44,271 --> 00:34:46,960
So Harriet how long have
you been in Hydra for?
873
00:34:46,960 --> 00:34:48,760
- I've been here for 18 years now.
874
00:34:48,760 --> 00:34:49,640
- 18 years!
- Yup.
875
00:34:49,640 --> 00:34:51,740
- My god, you look 18 years old.
876
00:34:51,740 --> 00:34:52,809
How old were you when you came here?
877
00:34:52,809 --> 00:34:53,642
- [Harriet] 10.
878
00:34:53,642 --> 00:34:54,475
- [Peter] I shouldn't have asked
879
00:34:54,475 --> 00:34:55,308
that question on camera, should I?
880
00:34:55,308 --> 00:34:56,150
- [Harriet] No, now you know my age.
881
00:34:56,150 --> 00:34:57,061
- Sorry love, sorry, sorry.
882
00:34:57,061 --> 00:34:57,980
(Harriet laughs)
883
00:34:57,980 --> 00:34:59,710
18 years in Hydra.
884
00:34:59,710 --> 00:35:00,870
You must know it pretty well now.
885
00:35:00,870 --> 00:35:02,220
What's special about Hydra?
886
00:35:04,481 --> 00:35:06,270
- Well, it's a very unique place.
887
00:35:06,270 --> 00:35:09,113
It's very quiet, best
place to come and relax.
888
00:35:10,100 --> 00:35:11,740
I love the countryside, I love the fact
889
00:35:11,740 --> 00:35:13,960
that I'm next to the
countryside and next to the sea.
890
00:35:13,960 --> 00:35:15,378
- Oh there, this way love, this way.
891
00:35:15,378 --> 00:35:17,050
(clicks tongue)
892
00:35:17,050 --> 00:35:18,810
- [Harriet] Chloe girl, there!
893
00:35:18,810 --> 00:35:20,200
- Chloe go, go, go Chloe.
894
00:35:20,200 --> 00:35:21,454
Chloe go.
895
00:35:21,454 --> 00:35:22,580
(clicks tongue)
896
00:35:22,580 --> 00:35:24,650
Chloe just does not like the camera.
897
00:35:24,650 --> 00:35:26,730
I just don't understand it.
898
00:35:26,730 --> 00:35:28,080
You're a good-looking girl!
899
00:35:29,087 --> 00:35:29,920
Okay?
900
00:35:29,920 --> 00:35:30,785
Oh, oops, oops.
901
00:35:30,785 --> 00:35:32,823
(clicks tongue)
902
00:35:32,823 --> 00:35:34,380
(speaks in foreign language)
903
00:35:34,380 --> 00:35:35,230
Oh, she speaks Greek!
904
00:35:35,230 --> 00:35:36,355
I should talk to her in Greek.
905
00:35:36,355 --> 00:35:37,955
(speaks in foreign language)
906
00:35:37,955 --> 00:35:38,888
Come on.
907
00:35:38,888 --> 00:35:40,674
(speaks in foreign language)
908
00:35:40,674 --> 00:35:43,049
(Peter grunting)
909
00:35:43,049 --> 00:35:44,240
- There we go, off we go.
910
00:35:44,240 --> 00:35:45,600
- [Peter] Harriet how long
have you been doing this for?
911
00:35:45,600 --> 00:35:47,910
- [Harriet] This is my
fourth year as a business,
912
00:35:47,910 --> 00:35:50,760
but I've been on horses
since I was 2 1/2 years old.
913
00:35:50,760 --> 00:35:51,860
- Is it working for you?
914
00:35:51,860 --> 00:35:53,350
- Yeah, yes.
- Are you enjoying it?
915
00:35:53,350 --> 00:35:54,680
- I love it.
- Wow.
916
00:35:54,680 --> 00:35:56,733
- I've managed to do my passion as a job.
917
00:35:58,454 --> 00:35:59,710
- If you can make money
from what you love,
918
00:35:59,710 --> 00:36:01,220
you're laughing, love.
919
00:36:01,220 --> 00:36:04,890
Now Chloe is a bit like my wife.
920
00:36:04,890 --> 00:36:06,270
I think she thinks she's the boss.
921
00:36:06,270 --> 00:36:07,920
She probably is right now anyway.
922
00:36:08,780 --> 00:36:09,613
- [Harriet] Yeah.
923
00:36:09,613 --> 00:36:10,900
- Chloe, let's do it, love.
924
00:36:10,900 --> 00:36:11,733
Let's do it, love.
925
00:36:11,733 --> 00:36:13,482
It's okay, the camera man's cool.
926
00:36:13,482 --> 00:36:14,315
(speaks in foreign language)
927
00:36:14,315 --> 00:36:16,012
You go, I'm gonna get past, don't worry.
928
00:36:16,012 --> 00:36:16,845
(speaks in foreign language)
929
00:36:16,845 --> 00:36:17,834
(clicks tongue)
930
00:36:17,834 --> 00:36:18,667
(speaks in foreign language)
931
00:36:18,667 --> 00:36:20,000
Not gonna happen, not gonna happen.
932
00:36:20,000 --> 00:36:23,210
I look really bad in front
of the world right now.
933
00:36:23,210 --> 00:36:24,712
They think you're all over me, can we go?
934
00:36:24,712 --> 00:36:25,581
(click tongues)
935
00:36:25,581 --> 00:36:26,414
(speaks in foreign language)
936
00:36:26,414 --> 00:36:27,247
Loves, you come on.
937
00:36:27,247 --> 00:36:28,080
(speaks in foreign language)
938
00:36:28,080 --> 00:36:28,913
I got to talk to her in Greek.
939
00:36:28,913 --> 00:36:30,427
(speaks in foreign language)
940
00:36:30,427 --> 00:36:31,891
Not gonna happen, not gonna happen.
941
00:36:31,891 --> 00:36:33,090
(clicks tongue)
942
00:36:33,090 --> 00:36:34,690
What do I do?
943
00:36:34,690 --> 00:36:35,800
- [Harriet] Give her a harder kick.
944
00:36:35,800 --> 00:36:36,660
- [Peter] Go!
945
00:36:36,660 --> 00:36:37,624
Oh, I don't wanna kick her hard.
946
00:36:37,624 --> 00:36:38,457
I don't wanna kick her hard.
947
00:36:38,457 --> 00:36:39,290
She's such a nice girl.
948
00:36:39,290 --> 00:36:40,123
- [Harriet] That's it.
949
00:36:40,123 --> 00:36:40,956
You're not gonna hurt my horse.
950
00:36:40,956 --> 00:36:41,789
I wouldn't let anyone hurt my horse.
951
00:36:41,789 --> 00:36:42,990
(Peter shouting)
952
00:36:42,990 --> 00:36:44,513
- [Peter] That's what we do when we dance!
953
00:36:45,790 --> 00:36:47,563
Good girl, good girl, good girl.
954
00:36:49,160 --> 00:36:50,160
We going up that way?
955
00:36:50,160 --> 00:36:51,089
- Yep.
956
00:36:51,089 --> 00:36:51,922
- [Peter] Okay, let's
go up this way, Chloe.
957
00:36:51,922 --> 00:36:53,133
- [Harriet] We're on cross country now.
958
00:36:54,200 --> 00:36:55,360
- So you married a builder?
959
00:36:55,360 --> 00:36:56,193
- [Harriet] Yep.
960
00:36:56,193 --> 00:36:58,830
- Good move that one, good move that one.
961
00:36:58,830 --> 00:37:00,830
Harriet, you reckon
Chloe's worked me out, eh?
962
00:37:00,830 --> 00:37:02,284
- [Harriet] Totally, she
knows you're a softy for her.
963
00:37:02,284 --> 00:37:03,546
- Already?
- Yeah.
964
00:37:03,546 --> 00:37:04,627
- Already!
965
00:37:04,627 --> 00:37:06,580
That's not right!
- Yeah.
966
00:37:06,580 --> 00:37:08,020
My horses test their riders out
967
00:37:08,020 --> 00:37:09,360
within the first five minutes.
968
00:37:09,360 --> 00:37:10,824
- Why didn't you tell me that earlier?
969
00:37:10,824 --> 00:37:12,840
(Harriet laughs)
970
00:37:12,840 --> 00:37:14,155
I didn't wanna hear that.
971
00:37:14,155 --> 00:37:15,120
(clicks tongue)
972
00:37:15,120 --> 00:37:16,333
Come on Chloe, let's go.
973
00:37:17,890 --> 00:37:21,366
So will she change her
opinion of me as we go?
974
00:37:21,366 --> 00:37:22,294
- I suppose so, if you
become a little bit tougher.
975
00:37:22,294 --> 00:37:24,300
- Come on Chloe, come on!
976
00:37:24,300 --> 00:37:25,310
That's it.
977
00:37:25,310 --> 00:37:26,270
I'm gonna change your opinion of me.
978
00:37:26,270 --> 00:37:28,990
Whatever happens, you
are gonna be my friend
979
00:37:28,990 --> 00:37:29,870
and we're gonna work together.
980
00:37:29,870 --> 00:37:31,110
Go pass the cameraman.
981
00:37:31,110 --> 00:37:32,380
Come on!
982
00:37:32,380 --> 00:37:35,183
Let's show the world
that I can change people.
983
00:37:36,830 --> 00:37:37,943
Let's go. (tongue clicks)
984
00:37:37,943 --> 00:37:40,540
That is just an absolutely
magnificent view.
985
00:37:41,422 --> 00:37:42,890
- [Harriet] Yeah, it's not bad.
986
00:37:42,890 --> 00:37:44,470
- Worth the ride up here,
987
00:37:44,470 --> 00:37:48,297
but I think it's time to
give Chloe a bit of a rest.
988
00:37:48,297 --> 00:37:50,550
I'm gonna give her a big gift.
989
00:37:50,550 --> 00:37:51,640
I'm gonna walk down, Chloe,
990
00:37:51,640 --> 00:37:53,720
'cause I just can't do this to you, love.
991
00:37:53,720 --> 00:37:54,680
Come over here, come over here.
992
00:37:54,680 --> 00:37:55,513
Let's check it out.
993
00:37:55,513 --> 00:37:56,588
Let's check it out over here.
994
00:37:56,588 --> 00:37:57,421
Come over here.
995
00:37:57,421 --> 00:37:59,090
Look at his, unbelievable.
996
00:37:59,090 --> 00:37:59,933
Is this awesome?
997
00:38:00,800 --> 00:38:02,090
Like any good relationship,
998
00:38:02,090 --> 00:38:03,390
Chloe and I just need some time
999
00:38:03,390 --> 00:38:05,010
to sort through a few things.
1000
00:38:05,010 --> 00:38:07,800
To be honest, she's not
the only unwavering female
1001
00:38:07,800 --> 00:38:08,835
in my life right now.
1002
00:38:08,835 --> 00:38:11,502
(festive music)
1003
00:38:14,746 --> 00:38:19,079
(transitions to lighthearted music)
1004
00:38:25,930 --> 00:38:28,690
Since antiquity, Greece
has been a maritime nation.
1005
00:38:28,690 --> 00:38:29,950
Merchants sailed the seas
1006
00:38:29,950 --> 00:38:31,470
and traded across the Mediterranean,
1007
00:38:31,470 --> 00:38:34,430
into Egypt, Asia Minor, and Phoenicia.
1008
00:38:34,430 --> 00:38:36,660
With this came an exchange in cultures,
1009
00:38:36,660 --> 00:38:38,960
the sharing of art and technology,
1010
00:38:38,960 --> 00:38:41,880
as well as the establishment
of Greek colonies abroad.
1011
00:38:41,880 --> 00:38:43,620
It could be said that
these early merchants
1012
00:38:43,620 --> 00:38:47,180
were the beginning of the
diaspora that continues today.
1013
00:38:47,180 --> 00:38:51,720
I'm walking up to the oldest
merchant marine academy
1014
00:38:51,720 --> 00:38:52,553
in the world.
1015
00:38:52,553 --> 00:38:57,420
Uninterruptedly working since 1749.
1016
00:38:57,420 --> 00:39:00,620
Now, I've checked the bullshit
metre to see if it's true
1017
00:39:00,620 --> 00:39:02,870
but there's no reference so
I've just gotta rely on that.
1018
00:39:02,870 --> 00:39:04,350
I'm going in.
1019
00:39:04,350 --> 00:39:07,320
Just to clarify, the
bullshit metre is Google.
1020
00:39:07,320 --> 00:39:09,310
It's my go-to for fact checking,
1021
00:39:09,310 --> 00:39:11,210
which is probably not the best source.
1022
00:39:12,130 --> 00:39:14,540
The building has a long
and fascinating history.
1023
00:39:14,540 --> 00:39:16,940
Spanning Civil War, foreign occupation,
1024
00:39:16,940 --> 00:39:19,130
and even having been a manor house.
1025
00:39:19,130 --> 00:39:20,960
In the period prior to the revolution,
1026
00:39:20,960 --> 00:39:22,320
teachers from Portugal and Italy
1027
00:39:22,320 --> 00:39:25,290
taught naval theory and foreign
languages in the academy,
1028
00:39:25,290 --> 00:39:27,420
and through the years,
countless important figures
1029
00:39:27,420 --> 00:39:30,470
in Greece's naval history have
passed through these halls.
1030
00:39:30,470 --> 00:39:32,160
It's a living museum that tells the story
1031
00:39:32,160 --> 00:39:33,840
of Hydra's connection to the sea,
1032
00:39:33,840 --> 00:39:35,770
while also serving to inspire cadets
1033
00:39:35,770 --> 00:39:37,830
that may someday become
leaders in the navy,
1034
00:39:37,830 --> 00:39:40,210
or captains of merchant ships.
1035
00:39:40,210 --> 00:39:42,490
I don't think I've ever sat
in a classroom on my own,
1036
00:39:42,490 --> 00:39:46,693
especially one with 268
years of continual history.
1037
00:39:47,735 --> 00:39:49,030
It's a very special place.
1038
00:39:49,030 --> 00:39:51,460
A lot of great captains
have come out of here,
1039
00:39:51,460 --> 00:39:54,210
through to the Navy's admirals,
1040
00:39:54,210 --> 00:39:55,580
through the Merchant Marines,
1041
00:39:55,580 --> 00:39:57,733
some becoming great shipping magnates.
1042
00:39:58,600 --> 00:40:00,700
If only these walls could talk.
1043
00:40:01,825 --> 00:40:02,658
And you know what?
1044
00:40:02,658 --> 00:40:04,283
You can come here and visit it.
1045
00:40:04,283 --> 00:40:06,866
(serene music)
1046
00:40:09,290 --> 00:40:11,760
Students serve a four-year
apprenticeship at the academy
1047
00:40:11,760 --> 00:40:13,470
and in that time, they learn everything
1048
00:40:13,470 --> 00:40:15,470
from navigation to engineering.
1049
00:40:15,470 --> 00:40:17,020
And for practical experience,
1050
00:40:17,020 --> 00:40:19,120
they even work on container ships.
1051
00:40:19,120 --> 00:40:21,110
It's said that since its establishment,
1052
00:40:21,110 --> 00:40:24,270
some 2,800 captains have
graduated from the academy.
1053
00:40:24,270 --> 00:40:26,770
It's something the locals
are extremely proud of,
1054
00:40:26,770 --> 00:40:27,862
and rightly so.
1055
00:40:27,862 --> 00:40:30,445
(serene music)
1056
00:40:39,747 --> 00:40:43,890
And next to the academy is
this beautiful Museum of Hydra.
1057
00:40:43,890 --> 00:40:47,930
It's just a treasure
chest of Naval history,
1058
00:40:47,930 --> 00:40:50,650
and if you like history,
this is the place to come.
1059
00:40:50,650 --> 00:40:52,080
But if you just like guns and knives
1060
00:40:52,080 --> 00:40:52,913
and all that sort of stuff,
1061
00:40:52,913 --> 00:40:54,443
this is the place to come as well.
1062
00:40:56,372 --> 00:40:58,090
(chuckles)
1063
00:40:58,090 --> 00:40:59,094
Now, that's a gun.
1064
00:40:59,094 --> 00:41:01,290
(serene music)
1065
00:41:01,290 --> 00:41:02,123
On the harbour front
1066
00:41:02,123 --> 00:41:04,450
is a statue of Admiral Andreas Miaoulis
1067
00:41:04,450 --> 00:41:05,960
who commanded the Greek naval forces
1068
00:41:05,960 --> 00:41:07,846
during the War of Independence.
1069
00:41:07,846 --> 00:41:10,200
And in that urn is his heart.
1070
00:41:10,200 --> 00:41:12,400
It's a little macabre,
but it's a different
1071
00:41:12,400 --> 00:41:14,466
and novel way to remember a great man.
1072
00:41:14,466 --> 00:41:17,049
(serene music)
1073
00:41:24,610 --> 00:41:26,490
This wall between the
first and second floor
1074
00:41:26,490 --> 00:41:27,380
is pretty significant
1075
00:41:27,380 --> 00:41:30,620
'cause you can see the number
of captains on this wall
1076
00:41:30,620 --> 00:41:35,170
that were part of the
Firebrand Fleet in the 1800s
1077
00:41:35,170 --> 00:41:37,570
that went up against the Ottomans.
1078
00:41:37,570 --> 00:41:39,560
They're all Hydriot captains.
1079
00:41:39,560 --> 00:41:43,430
Military conflicts dot the
history of every nation.
1080
00:41:43,430 --> 00:41:45,570
As bad as they might be,
1081
00:41:45,570 --> 00:41:48,290
sometimes they're a painful necessity.
1082
00:41:48,290 --> 00:41:51,070
And museums like this
give you an appreciation
1083
00:41:51,070 --> 00:41:53,710
for not only the tools
and machines of war,
1084
00:41:53,710 --> 00:41:54,543
but also for those
1085
00:41:54,543 --> 00:41:56,580
that made great sacrifices
for our freedom.
1086
00:41:56,580 --> 00:41:57,690
Oh!
1087
00:41:57,690 --> 00:41:59,190
This is Lazaros Koundouriotis.
1088
00:42:00,120 --> 00:42:01,240
You'll notice the painting
1089
00:42:01,240 --> 00:42:04,193
because he's got a patch
over his right eye.
1090
00:42:05,110 --> 00:42:07,760
I'm told that he was a little naughty
1091
00:42:07,760 --> 00:42:10,080
and his wife caught him with another lady
1092
00:42:10,080 --> 00:42:12,930
and she threw some hot chick peas at him,
1093
00:42:12,930 --> 00:42:15,030
hit him in the right
eye, burnt his right eye,
1094
00:42:15,030 --> 00:42:16,610
he lost his vision,
1095
00:42:16,610 --> 00:42:19,250
and I think he lost his wife as a result.
1096
00:42:19,250 --> 00:42:22,740
So far, my time in Hydra
has been a real eye-opener.
1097
00:42:22,740 --> 00:42:24,700
There's no denying the charm of the place
1098
00:42:24,700 --> 00:42:28,320
and the romance created by
the simplicity of life here.
1099
00:42:28,320 --> 00:42:30,580
The architecture and
lack of modern trappings
1100
00:42:30,580 --> 00:42:32,260
take you back in time
1101
00:42:32,260 --> 00:42:33,530
and give you a sense of what life
1102
00:42:33,530 --> 00:42:35,730
would have been like a century ago.
1103
00:42:35,730 --> 00:42:38,640
It's easy to see why so
many people visit here,
1104
00:42:38,640 --> 00:42:40,163
and end up never leaving.
1105
00:42:41,620 --> 00:42:44,890
Next episode, I'm continuing
my exploration of Hydra
1106
00:42:44,890 --> 00:42:47,687
and taking part in the
island's biggest celebration,
1107
00:42:47,687 --> 00:42:49,470
The Miaoulia Festival.
1108
00:42:49,470 --> 00:42:50,560
It's a week-long event
1109
00:42:50,560 --> 00:42:53,090
that commemorates
Admiral Andreas Miaoulis,
1110
00:42:53,090 --> 00:42:55,530
who was a leading figure
in the War of Independence.
1111
00:42:55,530 --> 00:42:56,630
It's also a celebration
1112
00:42:56,630 --> 00:42:58,930
of the Hydriot contribution
to the conflict
1113
00:42:58,930 --> 00:43:03,640
and includes boat races,
concerts, cultural exhibitions,
1114
00:43:03,640 --> 00:43:07,150
and a finale like nothing
you'll have ever seen before.
1115
00:43:07,150 --> 00:43:08,860
It's an annual event that illustrates
1116
00:43:08,860 --> 00:43:11,100
much of the proud heritage of the island
1117
00:43:11,100 --> 00:43:13,730
and something I've always wanted to see.
1118
00:43:13,730 --> 00:43:15,890
But before then, it was time to enjoy
1119
00:43:15,890 --> 00:43:18,010
another perfect end to the day,
1120
00:43:18,010 --> 00:43:20,810
with a magic sunset over the Aegean.
1121
00:43:20,810 --> 00:43:22,630
If you ever find yourself here,
1122
00:43:22,630 --> 00:43:25,450
there are few better ways
to bring a day to a close
1123
00:43:25,450 --> 00:43:28,450
than by having a meal and
a drink at the harbour.
1124
00:43:28,450 --> 00:43:31,330
The changing colours are spectacular,
1125
00:43:31,330 --> 00:43:33,670
with every shade of yellow and orange,
1126
00:43:33,670 --> 00:43:36,690
contrasted by the blue of the water.
1127
00:43:36,690 --> 00:43:39,064
What's more, the food
isn't too bad either.
1128
00:43:39,064 --> 00:43:41,814
(pleasant music)
85342
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