All language subtitles for NBM5T

Colombia Wild and
Free was made possible in part

by contributions to your PBS
station from viewers like you.

Thank you.

This is the
story of two landscapes

that could not be
more different.

The Andes are a wilderness
of breathtaking mountains,

volcanoes, lakes,
rock formations,

and stony deserts shaped
by wind and water.

Magical mountain forests,

with a spectacularly
diverse animal population

lie below the freezing
high plateaus.

On the far side
of the cold peaks,

the slopes of the
Andes are covered

in dense tropical forests.

A very different world is
found in western Colombia.

The wild coasts of the Pacific.

This coastline with its forests,

sandy beaches and mangroves

is one of the most diverse
landscapes on Earth.

Hidden natural wonders
lie off the coast,

in the rocky inlets
and mysterious depths

of distant islands.

Colombia'’s northwest is
the most remote region

in the country.

This coastline can only
be reached by plane.

the Western Cordillera
section of the Andes

acts as a barrier

between the Colombian highlands

and the craggy Pacific coast.

A few years ago, this
area was the realm

of mercenaries and drug dealers,

and considered the most
dangerous region

in the country.

Now, the gangs have withdrawn

into the mountains
and peace has returned.

During the summer,

thousands of humpback
whales gather

in the coastal waters

between Colombia and Panama.

The whales have spent months

following the coastline

north from the Antarctic.

Now the females give
birth to their calves

in the warm Pacific waters.

Over thousands of years,
the ocean waves have

carved the coastline into a
craggy, magical landscape.

This fjord is located in
the Utría National Park.

The inlet is protected from
the turbulent Pacific

by rocks and lined
with mangrove forests.

The tea mangroves that make
up much of these forests

are only found along South
America'’s Pacific coast.

The forests are home
to a wide range

of mangrove crabs,

which seek out the
safety of the trees

when the tide is high.

When the water recedes,

a dense forest on solid
ground is revealed.

The perfect hunting grounds

for yellow-crowned night-herons

and green vine snakes.

The mangrove crabs
descend from the trees.

They have just three
hours to eat their fill

before the tide comes in again.

The Latin name of
these crabs translates

as the beautiful mangrove crab.

They can survive under water,

but there'’s a
reason they escape

into the trees at high tide.

The rainforests on
the steep slopes are

uninhabited by
humans, but are home

to a breathtakingly diverse
range of flora and fauna.

Many of these species have yet

to be scientifically examined.

Admittedly, the brown-
throated sloth is

no longer much of a mystery,

but it'’s rare to see a
mother with her baby.

The males disappear
after mating,

but the mother and her
offspring are inseparable.

The young sloth
spends six months

hanging on its
mother'’s stomach,

attentively watching
every move she makes,

Witnessing sloths in
action is difficult.

The animals spend
up to 18 hours a day

sleeping in the treetops.

Young leaves and shoots make up

a large part of a sloth'’s diet,

with certain plants,
like Cecropia trees,

being particularly popular.

Once again, the mother
acts as an example.

Occasionally, a strange chorus

rings out among the trees.

It is the sound of groups
of red howler monkeys

communicating with
others in the vicinity.

This particular
group has settled

in a mango tree on
an abandoned farm.

In the midday heat,
a few monkeys engage

in a little grooming, most,
however, just lounge about.

One enthusiastic
acrobat practices

using its prehensile tail.

The siesta can last for hours

with minor interruptions.

Red howler monkeys have
a strict hierarchy,

and the monkey at the
top frequently reminds

the others of his status.

South America is home
to 12 different species

of howler monkey.

All of who share one common,

unusual characteristic:

They are the only South
American primates

able to see color.

This trait is common
in so-called

old-world primates

in Africa and
Asia, but not here.

As yet, experts have
been unable to explain

why most New World primates
have monochromatic vision.

The mango tree reveals
why it can be useful

to see the difference
between red and green.

The red howler monkeys
can immediately tell

that the green fruit
are not ripe yet,

and will therefore
only pick the red ones.

With little to be gained here,

the group returns
to the rainforest.

The forests along
the Pacific coast are

home to zoologic
treasures that are popular

with both scientists and
unfortunately, poachers,

poison dart frogs.

This particular
species, solanensis,

was only discovered in 2018

and is already
considered endangered.

The frogs can reach
prices of up to $2,000,

and are therefore now
hard to find here.

Prices like this represent
immeasurable wealth

to the poor coastal inhabitants,

and many roam the forests
on the hunt for what are,

quite literally,
natural treasures.

The Condoto stubfoot toad
is even more venomous

than the poison dart frogs.

Its body contains tetrodotoxin,

the same toxin as pufferfish.

The amphibian is
most commonly found

in the undergrowth
along the coast,

but only in Colombia.

Outside the conservation areas,

population numbers
are declining rapidly.

The calm waters of the
Utría National Park are

a nursery for
humpback whale calves.

The calves are born
in June and July.

They weigh a ton at birth
and are extremely thirsty,

requiring around 12 gallons
of mother'’s milk a day.

Female relatives help
to rear the calves,

allowing the mothers to
take a well-deserved break.

Humpback whale gestation
takes around 12 months,

and females can only give
birth every two years.

In the fjord,

the calves are safe
from orcas and sharks,

and can practice
diving and leaping.

To the calf,

this is the equivalent
of learning a language.

Whales use the sound waves
generated by these leaps

to communicate with others
over long distances.

The adult humpbacks

fast during their
visit to the north,

but reward themselves
with tons of krill

once they return to
their summer quarters

in the Antarctic.

The tide begins
to come in again.

The last of the mangrove
crabs return to the trees,

as the seawater returns
to the mangrove forests.

At high tide, water levels
rise by 10 to 13 feet.

The forest floor now
looks very different.

The fish search for food
and hunt among the roots.

And this is why the crabs prefer

the safety of the
trees at high tide,

they are protected
from the attentions

of the hungry fish.

There'’s competition
for the best places.

Some crabs are forced
to abandon their perch,

while others fall
into the water.

The racer mangrove crab
suddenly finds itself

in dangerous territory.

The crab puts up a brave fight,

and completes the

challenging obstacle course.

The safety of the
surface is near.

Another crab is not so lucky.

The pufferfish are the
most skilled crab hunters

in the mangrove forests.

The successful
bullseye puffer has

to defend its catch from
its hungry relatives.

The coastline is often
obscured by clouds,

creating an
atmosphere of mystery.

This beach would
appear to be deserted,

but it is actually
teeming with life.

Just below the surface,

an entire generation of
turtles is about to emerge.

During the night, hundreds
of olive ridley sea turtles

have hatched from eggs buried

up to 15 inches
deep in the sand.

Like all freshly
hatched sea turtles,

they are driven
by a single goal:

To reach the water.

Two months earlier,
female turtles laid

several thousand
eggs along the beach.

Not all the eggs have developed,

and only a fraction of
the minuscule heroes

will survive the early
years in the ocean.

Fortunately, the olive
ridley turtles

are flourishing

along the Colombian coasts
and in Central America,

and local populations
are increasing.

The turtles are merely
seasonal guests.

Ghost crabs inhabit darkness

below the sand all year round.

When the tide is out, they
emerge to search for food.

Their powerful sense of smell

leads them to a dead houndfish.

The crabs work with
surgical precision.

These scavengers provide an
important hygienic service.

The tide comes in again,
and it is time to return

to subterranean safety.

The protected waters of the
Utría fjord are also home

to one of the few coral
reefs along this coast.

The currents are too
strong for corals

along the rocky coastline,

but cauliflower
corals have been able

to settle in the calmer waters,

and they, in turn,
have attracted

a colorful explosion
of reef fish.

Among them are various
species of pufferfish,

the feared crab hunters
of the mangrove forests.

An interesting
symbiosis occurs here:

The butterfly fish follow
the significantly larger

rainbow chub,
extracting nutrients

from the waste the
chub leave behind.

The chub welcome the attentions

of their entourage.

The butterfly fish
also remove parasites

and patches of dry skin.

The surprising abundance
of fish here is

due to a strict ban of
fishing in the waters

that are a part of
the national park.

The sunken fishing
boat dates back

to the days before
the ban was enacted.

The national park
was founded in 1987.

Since then, fishing
has been limited

to local fishermen
and small boats.

The wreck is inhabited
by a giant grouper.

This particular fish weighs
well over 200 pounds.

The underwater
giants rarely emerge

from their hiding places.

Rather than hunting actively,

they prefer to lurk unseen,

then suck in their prey.

The grouper is accompanied
by colorful

golden trevallies

who seek out the larger
fish for protection.

Another giant grouper appears.

Clearly the wreck is
large enough for two.

The groupers, reefs and
humpback whales contribute

to the unique nature of
the untamed Pacific coast,

just one of the fascinating
regions in wild Colombia.

Colombia'’s geography
seems to be

a microcosm of
the entire planet.

Just an hour'’s flight east
from the tropical Pacific

lies the longest
continental mountain range

in the world,

the Andes.

In Colombia, the
Andes are divided

into three different
mountain ranges.

The highest is the
Cordillera Central

with volcanic mountains,
more than 17,000 feet high.

An Andean condor circles high

above the peaks of Los Nevados.

Three volcanoes tower
above the others.

Two of them remain
active and unpredictable.

Above the treeline,

at elevations above 13,000 feet,

lies the páramo.

This magical world is cold,

damp and home to some
exceptional plants.

The greatest of these
is the Espeletia.

Locals refer to these shrubs

as frailejones or big monks.

Many locals find the
páramo disturbing.

Place names refer
to biting cold,

murderers, thieves
and the living dead.

In addition, many
mountain regions

remained under control of FARC,

Colombia'’s largest
guerrilla army

for many, many years.

The young Espeletia plants

add a dash of color
to the páramo.

In a few hundred years,

these very flowers will
grow to the size of trees.

The Andes are a gigantic
water reservoir.

The streams and rivers provide

millions of people
with drinking water

and feed the dense forests

that grow at lower elevations.

The mountain forests
of the Andes begin

just below 12,000
feet above sea level,

and are home to the
legendary Andean condor.

Condor breeding pairs stay
together all their lives.

A long time.

If the birds are able
to avoid hunters

and other dangers,

they can live up to
50 years in the wild,

but life is difficult for
the king of the Andes.

Despite introduction

of strict conservation measures,

only an estimated
150 Andean condors

remain in Colombia.

Many farmers fear
the birds of prey,

as they are said to
carry off calves

and even children.

These are merely myths,

but they have left their
mark on the people here.

The cool cloud forest
gradually changes

as it descends into the valley.

The first palm trees appear,

and the climate
becomes subtropical.

The flowers attract large
numbers of hummingbirds,

which feed on their nectar
from sunrise to sunset.

Like its relatives, the
shining sunbeam hummingbird

can beat its wings up
to 50 times a second.

It'’s able to hover in the
air and even fly backwards.

Well-hidden in the
dense vegetation,

its mate guards the eggs.

The viridian metaltail
is a true mountain bird,

living near the treeline
and up to 12,500 feet.

A majority of the
Andes'’ animal species

avoid the inhospitable
higher elevations,

and remain near the
protective forest.

A buck looks for food
along the boundary

between the mountain
forest and the páramo.

White-tailed deer are masters

of adapting to
their surroundings.

There are 26 different
subspecies across America,

from the Yukon in Alaska
all the way to Bolivia.

This particular
subspecies has adapted

to the challenging climate
of the Colombian Andes.

Their winter fur is much thicker

than that of its
lowland relatives,

and it has a warming undercoat.

The ears are also
covered with fur.

Protected from the elements,

the deer will
often look for food

up to 13,000 feet
above sea level.

Farther down the mountain,

animal sightings become rarer.

The trees are covered in
moss, lichen and epiphytes,

an ecosystem aptly
named the Elfin Forest.

An Andean guan hides
in the undergrowth,

looking for fruit and seeds.

The bird seems unaware
that not far above

a giant is awaking.

A spectacled bear is
about to start its day.

Spectacled bears are found
throughout the Andes,

from Venezuela to Bolivia,
but they are rarely seen.

The bears are so shy
that very little is known

about their behavior
in the wild.

The bears are
traditionally found

in damp mountain forests

between 3,000 and 10,000
feet above sea level.

As human settlements,
streets and fields

encroach on their
regular habitats,

some bears have begun
to establish their homes

on fallow land and
at lower elevations.

The bears spend the
nights in trees,

where they occasionally
build themselves nests

to sleep in.

Males weigh up to
around 330 pounds

and can be extremely aggressive.

Their only potential
enemies, aside from humans,

are jaguars.

Fortunately, the big cats tend

to avoid the cold
mountain forests.

The solitary animals
roam territories

that cover just a
few square miles.

Spectacled bears
spend their days

leisurely looking for food.

Although they have
been known to kill

fully-grown cows and tapirs,

much of their diet
consists of plants,

particularly bromeliads,
bamboo and cacti.

In the central Andes,

the bears face two
great dangers:

The first is the
increasing destruction

of their habitat.

The second is natural,
rather than man-made.

The Nevado del Ruiz
is unpredictable.

A so-called stratovolcano,

it is particularly dangerous

because gases and lava

don'’t escape slowly,

but rather explode
under pressure.

The volcano last erupted on
the 13th of November, 1985,

spewing 35 million tons

of glowing rock into
the atmosphere.

Clouds of hot gas

and debris enveloped
the glacier.

The destructive force
of the eruption

has burned itself

into the landscape
for centuries to come.

A river of molten ice
caused huge landslides

at speeds of up to
30 miles an hour.

Just before midnight,

the first of the three
gigantic mudslides

hit the town of Armero

on the banks of the
Rio Magdalena.

Armero was completely erased.

Three quarters of
the population,

more than 20,000 people,
lost their lives.

The remains of the town
are now a pilgrimage site.

The mudslides carved a deep
gorge into the mountain.

Decades have passed since
the tragedy occurred,

but pioneer plants
are only now beginning

to establish themselves here.

Colombia'’s volcanoes
have two distinct faces.

One threatens death
and destruction,

while the other promises
generous harvests.

The nutrient-rich
volcanic ash is effective

at storing water and is
a powerful fertilizer.

The families who have settled

in the shadow of Nevado del Ruiz

live off the proceeds
of animal farming

and a vegetable that only
grows above elevations

of 10,000 feet in
tropical Colombia,

the potato.

Potatoes originated in the
volcanic soils of the Andes

and were cultivated here
at least 8,000 years ago.

Carlos Albeiro is
the farm'’s foreman.

The owner of the farm
lives in a distant city

and rarely journeys
to the mountains.

Harvesting the potatoes
and transporting them

is a challenging job
for the day laborers.

Just a few years ago,

goods, travelers and
their luggage were

all carried over
the Andes on mules.

Now a row leads from the
potato collection point

into the valley.

The mules are unable to compete

with the large powerful trucks,

and the men have little to do.

The waters from
the fertile fields

and moist cloud forests

flow down into tropical forests

at lower elevations.

The forested slopes
in the eastern Andes

lie within the catchment
area of the Amazon River.

This young bird will
eventually become

a formidable hunter.

The harpy eagle

is among the largest
eagles in the world

and is almost certainly
the most powerful.

Like the young harpy eagle,
macaws make their homes

in the treetops
of the rainforest.

This female harpy is
almost fully grown.

Before long, she will
weigh around 18 pounds,

and have a wingspan of
approximately six feet,

and will spend the days hunting

monkeys and sloths
among the trees,

if any trees remain.

The rainforest in the north

of the Caquetá
province has vanished.

Just 10 years ago, this land was

covered in lush vegetation.

Now all that remains
is a flat expanse

of dead trees and
animal pastures.

Local farmers bought the
land from the government

and razed the forest to create

grazing land for their cattle.

The state has now
stopped the sale of land,

but illegal clearing continues.

In Colombia, 800 square
miles of rainforest

are destroyed every year.

Some people here are making
fortunes off the land,

while the majority is
poor and lack electricity,

running water and roads.

The young eagle is hungry,

but her parents now only
feed her every three days.

The time has almost come
to strike out on her own.

Finally, the father
appears with some food.

Bizarrely, the young harpy
also owes its existence

to violent guerrilla forces.

The region remains
in the iron grip

of the FARC rebels,

who have even passed
environmental laws.

Without these regulations,
experts believe

that these remaining
small islands of forest

would have disappeared
altogether.

The eagle'’s parents have reared

several generations of
harpies in this very nest,

but there are now
few monkeys or sloths

for the eagles to prey on.

Where will the young
harpy hunt in the future?

10 years ago, this tree was
surrounded by rainforest,

now everything for 60 miles
around has been destroyed,

and the pastures continue
to carve their way

further into the Amazon
wilderness every day.

Nearby, a chestnut-eared aracari

struggles with a nut.

These few hectares
of forest provide

an excellent opportunity
to witness

the local bird life,

because the birds
have nowhere else

to eat, establish nests or rest.

Eventually, the
parrots and other birds

will leave this region for good.

The harpy is almost
ready to take wing,

but a little practice
is still necessary.

Once she leaves the nest,

the parents will
continue to provide food

until she learns
to hunt on her own.

The wind whistles,
calling to the harpy,

and she finally
follows the call.

The deforestation

is not only an
environmental disaster,

it is also pointless.

The soils contain few nutrients

and are not suitable
for rearing cattle.

The farmers are
aware of this fact,

but politicians
walked out on them.

And by now,

animal husbandry
is a global problem,

which breeders,
governments and consumers

must solve collectively.

It is raining along
the Pacific coast,

as it so often does,

but something has changed.

Summer is drawing to an end.

The whale calves
are well nourished

and slowly leave the
protective inlets

with their mothers.

Solitary animals and families

gather along the coast.

In just a few weeks,
they will begin

the long journey
to the Antarctic.

The wild Pacific coast

marks the natural western border

of Colombia, in a
manner of speaking.

A lonely outlier of the country

is located 310 miles
away, Malpelo Island.

The rocky island is
of volcanic origin

and is guarded by the army.

Researchers and divers
require permits to visit.

Despite the sparse vegetation,

Malpelo attracts seabirds
including brown noddies,

masked and red-footed boobies.

The nests are spread
out around the cliffs

and the 1000-feet-high plateau.

However, the greatest treasures

are to be found under water.

The island is surrounded by one

of the largest marine
protected areas

in the world.

With a little luck,
visitors are greeted

by a white-spotted eagle
ray welcoming committee.

More than 10,000
square miles of ocean

around Malpelo are protected,

and the massive
schools of mullet,

blue and gold snappers

show just how effective
a fishing ban can be

if it is firmly enforced
for two decades.

This explosion of life is also

due to the unusual
topography of the sea bed,

which is up to 11,000
feet deep in some places.

Steep underwater
cliffs, tunnels,

and strong currents
all help to transport

large amounts of nutrients
towards the surface.

This abundance of food impacts

every aspect of the ecosystem.

Beginning with the
smallest organisms

and fish that live
along the coral reefs

near Malpelo.

A well-camouflaged
frogfish sits motionless

next to a cave inhabited by
a fine-spotted moray eel.

The eels would appear
to like each other.

Moray eels very rarely
leave their caves.

One of the few reasons
to do so is courtship.

The mating ritual
is an elegant dance

that is very rarely seen.

The sandy seabed is also
home to colorful creatures,

like this jawfish.

The triggerfish is
one of the seabed'’s

more aggressive inhabitants.

A female drives off a goatfish

that has drawn too
close to the offspring.

Triggerfish blow circular holes

in the seabed to spawn in.

Everything has to be perfect.

A small stone that
rolls into the hole

is immediately removed.

After the eggs have been laid

and fertilized by the male,

the female spends
a few days cleaning

and defending the hollow.

The nutrients from
the deep not only keep

the reefs and their
inhabitants alive,

they also attract large fish.

The whale shark filters
the plankton from the water

that rises from the
cold depths below.

Other sharks are also attracted

by the prevalence
of fish to feed on.

Whitetip reef and
silky sharks are

frequent visitors here.

They are hunted in large numbers

outside the protected areas

as their fins are
in great demand.

Large schools of scalloped
hammerheads circle

the outermost rockfaces
of the island.

Even experienced
marine biologists

are left speechless

by the diversity and
population densities here.

Far away to the east,

one of the longest animal
migrations in the world

is about to begin.

A whale beats its fluke

against water to gather its pod.

In October, the
last humpback whales

leave the Colombian
coast for the Antarctic.

The journey there and
back is 3,800 miles,

the longest mammal
migration on the planet.

The calves seem eager to reach

their icy territory
in the south.

Next year, they will return
to their birth place,

to Colombia, the
unchained paradise.