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LAND WITHOUT BREAD
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This cinematographic test of
human geography was rolled in 1932,
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just a short time after the
coming of the Spanish Republic.
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In opinion of the geographers and the travellers,
the region who are going to visit, called the Hurdes,
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is a barren and inhospitable region,
in which the man is forced to fight,
hour to hour, by the subsistence.
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Until 1922, year in which the first highway
drew up, the Hurdes almost was not known
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for the rest of the world and
even for the inhabitants of Spain.
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Before arriving at the Hurdes,
we must pass by the Pond,
quite rich town,
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00:00:59,789 --> 00:01:03,458
of feudal character, that it has a
great influence on the life of the Hurdes,
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00:01:03,789 --> 00:01:07,098
where almost all the inhabitants
are tributary of this town.
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This is the church of the Pond.
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Two skulls in their niche seems to
preside over the destinies of this town.
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Generally, the houses has three floors.
Its architecture is little frequent
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in Spain and give to
the streets a medieval aspect.
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Most of the houses has recorded on
their door a religious inscription:
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"Ave Mar�a, conceived without sin"
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On day of our arrival we see
the women dressed for a great ceremony.
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We ask why they wear those pretty dresses.
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They reply that they must go to the Church square,
where they're going to celebrate
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00:02:02,743 --> 00:02:05,135
like every year, a strange and
Barbarian celebration.
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00:02:05,562 --> 00:02:08,348
Newly wedded men,
in front of gathered town,
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each on of them must
take the head of a rooster.
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Between two corners, a cord extends
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of which hangs a rooster
tied by the legs.
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Each of the riders, in gallop,
will have to take the head of a rooster.
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After walking triumphantly with
the heads of the rooster through the squares
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and the streets of town, the grooms
offer wine to everybody.
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The escanciadores, along with the wine,
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offer pleasures to thousands.
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00:03:06,880 --> 00:03:10,499
Among others, we see this
boy rich adorned with silver medals
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Although they are Christian medals,
we cannot help thinking
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the amulets come from savage
villages of Africa and Ocean�a.
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We left the Pond, where
at 7 pm
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almost everybody is already drunk.
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00:03:32,990 --> 00:03:36,400
3 kilometers away, from one of the tops
of the mountainss that surround the town,
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00:03:36,732 --> 00:03:39,435
we discover the fifty two
towns that constitute the Hurdes,
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with a total population of ten thousand inhabitants.
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through steep slopes, we crossed
the splendid valley of the Batuecas
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00:03:48,923 --> 00:03:51,789
inhibited by old monks, who live
with their servants.
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00:04:10,098 --> 00:04:14,021
This valley was inhabited for
four centuries by monks, the Carmelites,
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00:04:14,342 --> 00:04:18,121
who preached the Christian religion
in the most important towns of the Hurdes.
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The Batuecas has conserved vestiges
of intense prehistoric life.
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00:04:21,987 --> 00:04:24,945
In the caverns the are crafty paintings
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00:04:25,687 --> 00:04:28,010
representing men, goats and bees.
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00:04:48,231 --> 00:04:50,121
Toads, snakes and lizards
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00:04:50,543 --> 00:04:52,687
are the only present
inhabitants of these ruins.
48
00:05:08,123 --> 00:05:10,400
The vegetation is anundent,
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00:05:10,654 --> 00:05:12,432
and more than 200 species
grow here freely.
50
00:05:12,782 --> 00:05:15,125
Nevertheless, five kilometres
from this valley
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00:05:15,369 --> 00:05:18,800
no longer we will find trees.
Only some fruit trees, rockroses and brezos.
52
00:05:23,003 --> 00:05:26,121
The convent is surrounded by a wall
eight kilometres long
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that protects from the attacks
of wolves and wild boars.
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00:05:28,654 --> 00:05:31,230
Inside the enclosure,
formed by the wall,
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00:05:31,500 --> 00:05:35,121
the ruins of eighteen hermitages,
scattered here and there,
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00:05:35,498 --> 00:05:38,187
indicated by one or several cypresses.
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00:05:52,328 --> 00:05:54,563
Behind these tops,
that still belong
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to the Batuecas, begin the Hurdes.
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00:05:56,560 --> 00:05:59,831
After crossing them, we find the desert
of the Hurdes.
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00:06:02,383 --> 00:06:06,200
This town is the Aceitunilla,
located in one of the poorest valleys.
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00:06:06,648 --> 00:06:08,925
The white building is the school,
built recently.
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00:06:11,124 --> 00:06:15,239
In the streets onthe slope of the mountain
we meet its daily life.
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00:06:21,124 --> 00:06:26,123
Peculiar detail, in the towns of the Hurdes
we have never heard singing.
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00:06:30,121 --> 00:06:33,124
Sometimes we can run,
in the middle of the town, a
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00:06:33,345 --> 00:06:35,145
miserable brook that descends
from the mountains.
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00:06:35,700 --> 00:06:38,123
In summer, there is not much
water in the town
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00:06:38,345 --> 00:06:42,124
and the inhabitants use it,
in spite of the filthy dirt
in the channel.
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00:06:43,478 --> 00:06:45,510
There are weired scenes here.
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00:06:44,560 --> 00:06:47,345
The river serves the whole town
70
00:07:21,129 --> 00:07:23,345
Three children eat a bread slice
dipped in water.
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00:07:23,568 --> 00:07:25,234
The bread, until recently,
was almost unknown in the Hurdes.
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It seems that children's teacher,
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makes the children eat in
his presence, fearing
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00:07:32,521 --> 00:07:35,345
that as soon as they arrive home,
theit parents will take it away.
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They call the children to the school.
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00:07:49,234 --> 00:07:53,121
These ragged, barefoot children,
receive the same education
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as any other children anywhere in the world
who go to the primary school.
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00:07:56,880 --> 00:07:59,123
The clothes bring the hurdanos
that emigrate
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00:07:59,542 --> 00:08:03,002
for summer to territories
of Castile and Andalusia.
80
00:08:03,880 --> 00:08:06,333
They are dedicated mainly
to the mendicidad.
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00:08:06,666 --> 00:08:10,432
When they return to their land,
they distribute lots of clothes
in exchange for potatoes.
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00:08:26,488 --> 00:08:29,735
They teach these hungry children,
like everywhere,
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00:08:29,994 --> 00:08:33,711
that the sum of the angles of a triangle
is equal to two right angles.
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00:08:37,875 --> 00:08:41,222
In some towns of the Hurdes,
most of the children are "pilus".
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00:08:41,431 --> 00:08:44,123
The abandoned will be looked for
by the women of the Hurdes
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00:08:44,325 --> 00:08:47,234
from the public assistance
of Rodrigo City, located
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00:08:47,456 --> 00:08:50,121
away two days of march through the mountain.
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00:08:51,669 --> 00:08:55,221
They are in charge of raising them
in exchange for a fifteen pesetas a month.
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00:08:55,545 --> 00:08:59,615
This miserable amount will let the whole family live
until the day,
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00:08:59,945 --> 00:09:04,434
not very distant, when the industry of "pilus"
is prohibited in the Hurdes.
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00:09:09,668 --> 00:09:11,880
Unexpected and shocking picture
that we discovered in the school.
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00:09:12,124 --> 00:09:14,449
Who could make this
absurd engraving here?
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00:09:19,003 --> 00:09:22,346
We opened randomly a moral book
that we found in the school.
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00:09:22,569 --> 00:09:25,444
One of the best students
writes in the slate,
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00:09:25,762 --> 00:09:27,125
on our request ours,
one of the book's maxims.
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00:09:34,883 --> 00:09:38,121
The moral that is taught to
these small ones is the one that
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prevails our civilized world:
"Respect the other people's goods".
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00:09:51,109 --> 00:09:53,239
In this relatively rich valley,
there are some
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walnuts, cherry trees and olive trees.
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00:09:58,349 --> 00:09:59,889
This it is the town of Martilandr�n.
101
00:10:00,011 --> 00:10:04,010
The crusts that see between the trees,
resambling the shell
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of a mythical animal, is nothing more
than the tile roofs of the town.
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On the town entraning,
a choir of coughs welcomes us.
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Most of the inhabitants are sick.
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00:10:20,789 --> 00:10:23,320
The scenes that appear to our sight
are of a devastating misery.
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The goiter is the specific illness of the Hurdes High,
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that constitute the main object of this report.
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See this woman with its goiter:
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does not have more than thirty-two years.
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In a deserted street we find a girl.
Do
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Ask al mayor what has.
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00:11:04,723 --> 00:11:08,230
responds that since three days ago the girl is there without being moved.
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should be patient, therefore complains.
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00:11:10,400 --> 00:11:13,700
One of our friends, himself about to her
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to be reported of what hurts it in the throat.
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Asks It that open the mouth
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and we can see him the gums and the throat inflamed.
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Unfortunately we cannot do anything by her.
120
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Two days later we returned al town.
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Al to ask for her, they responded that it had died.
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Of what the inhabitants of this sterile land are fed?
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00:11:38,356 --> 00:11:41,223
The only food that arrange, or almost,
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are the potatos and the beans, and not always;
125
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especially in the months of June and July,
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00:11:46,700 --> 00:11:49,234
to this same base of its diet lacks them.
127
00:11:49,586 --> 00:11:53,129
Its diet c�rnica is composed only of hog.
128
00:11:53,335 --> 00:11:57,221
Only the rich families, if can be called them thus, possess a hog.
129
00:11:57,442 --> 00:12:00,433
Each year kill al hog: devour the meat in three days.
130
00:12:01,943 --> 00:12:04,421
In the most fertile places olives grow.
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00:12:04,845 --> 00:12:07,608
often the fruits are devoured for the insects.
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00:12:09,487 --> 00:12:12,972
The goat is the animal that better resists in these sterile spots.
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Its milk for the serious patients is reserved that wet in her the bread
134
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that the beggars bring of far away and that also is kept for the patients.
135
00:12:33,234 --> 00:12:36,668
Only meat of goat is consumed when some is killed,
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00:12:36,887 --> 00:12:40,002
thing that happens at times when the floor is abrupt and the steep paths.
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The main alimentary industry of The Hurdes is the apicultura.
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But the hives, in its majority, do not belong to the hurdanos.
139
00:12:52,999 --> 00:12:57,556
Besides, the honey that the bees extract of the flower of the brezo, is very
bitter.
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00:12:57,889 --> 00:13:00,669
The owners of the hives are people of The Pool.
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Only leave the hives to the hurdanos during the winter,
142
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that here is smoother than in the neighboring province of Salamanca.
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00:13:11,887 --> 00:13:14,222
In spring, transport the comenas to Castille.
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00:13:14,446 --> 00:13:18,334
In this epoch, is normal to find one or various loaded animals with the hives
145
00:13:18,600 --> 00:13:21,002
and that are directed to Castille.
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00:13:21,332 --> 00:13:24,004
A day, we find to this donkey, with its load of hives,
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00:13:24,222 --> 00:13:27,034
that two hurdanos carry to Salamanca.
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a little later, while we eat tranquilly, someone asks aid.
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00:13:32,335 --> 00:13:36,002
The hurdanos had tied al stupid. One of the hives had fallen
150
00:13:36,332 --> 00:13:38,222
and the animal had been attacked for the bees.
151
00:13:38,446 --> 00:13:41,456
The disorderly movements that caused to be defended they caused
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the fall of other hives
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and emjambres of bees precipitated on him.
154
00:13:48,699 --> 00:13:51,888
An hour later, was dead person. A month before our arrival,
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three men and eleven mulos had died in the same way.
156
00:14:01,003 --> 00:14:05,004
The months of May and June are the hardest since, in this epoca
157
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have exhausted its provisions of potatos.
158
00:14:08,003 --> 00:14:11,777
Then are fed of cherries, and as the hunger presses, do not leave that
159
00:14:11,998 --> 00:14:14,555
come they to mature and them are eaten green, which dysentery causes them.
160
00:14:16,001 --> 00:14:18,009
Is then when begin the migrations.
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00:14:18,444 --> 00:14:21,999
The men to the ones that does not retain the illness and have been freed of
the fevers,
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go to Castille or to Extremadura, to try to work in it reaps.
163
00:14:28,888 --> 00:14:33,004
We find Ourselves with some of these caravans, of 10, 30, 50 men,
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provided only of a blanket.
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00:14:36,399 --> 00:14:40,733
do Not have money neither bread and go very far away, on foot, to seek work.
166
00:14:45,777 --> 00:14:48,722
We cross Ourselves, several days later, with a group of those men
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that return as themselves they were, without money and without bread.
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Arrive now to one of the essential points of this report.
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What do the hurdanos to build the field that will permit them to eat?
170
00:15:13,555 --> 00:15:17,666
Begin for choosing a next land to the edge, later with the aid
171
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of its women, its parents and its friends,
172
00:15:20,355 --> 00:15:22,400
eliminate the vegetaci� habitual of rockroses and of brezos.
173
00:15:22,700 --> 00:15:25,789
The tools are always rudimentary: a peak and a pairs.
174
00:15:26,008 --> 00:15:28,987
do Not arrange of other instruments to work.
175
00:15:29,290 --> 00:15:32,600
The plow is stranger in the majority of the towns of The Hurdes.
176
00:15:35,999 --> 00:15:38,336
Once the land is cleared,
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00:15:38,780 --> 00:15:41,790
raise walls of stones, put some on another, without mortero.
178
00:15:43,660 --> 00:15:46,003
This wall will protect al field of the winter floods.
179
00:15:48,798 --> 00:15:51,700
When the wall is built, have to be going to seek
180
00:15:51,944 --> 00:15:53,900
the vegetable land to the mountain.
181
00:15:54,200 --> 00:15:58,400
Fill bags that transport later through the zarzas to its field.
182
00:15:58,789 --> 00:16:01,456
This work occupies them generally during several weeks.
183
00:16:16,888 --> 00:16:20,004
See the thin vegetable layer of land that covers a field hurdano.
184
00:16:19,400 --> 00:16:23,333
The first year the crop is abundant, but later the land is exhausted,
185
00:16:23,666 --> 00:16:27,880
to lack of elmentos nitrogenados, and returns sterile.
186
00:16:33,787 --> 00:16:36,777
All the fields of The Hurdes have form of straits
187
00:16:36,999 --> 00:16:39,032
bands of land al edge of the river.
188
00:16:39,333 --> 00:16:43,345
often, them grown winter annihilate in uns instants the work of all a year.
189
00:16:47,789 --> 00:16:51,654
This is the characteristic meander of a course of water of The Hurdes
190
00:16:51,990 --> 00:16:53,001
with the small fields escalonados.
191
00:16:57,888 --> 00:17:00,235
TO lack of money and of animal servants
192
00:17:00,550 --> 00:17:02,234
the hurdano cannot obtain guarantee.
193
00:17:02,560 --> 00:17:06,222
Therefore has to go to the mountain to seek with what to do it,
194
00:17:06,555 --> 00:17:08,377
as the family that see here.
195
00:17:23,887 --> 00:17:25,888
The roads are difficult and the footwear is scarce.
196
00:17:33,772 --> 00:17:36,888
The most appreciated guarantee is the one that the hurdanos manufacture they
197
00:17:37,005 --> 00:17:41,238
with the dry leaves of the tassel, not a very abundant bush in these
mountains.
198
00:17:41,560 --> 00:17:46,999
When they arrive at a favorable place, they fill the bags with the precious leaves.
199
00:17:50,444 --> 00:17:53,444
But in these places the v�per is a very widespread animal.
200
00:17:53,700 --> 00:17:56,902
One of these peasants was stung by a viper some days ago
201
00:17:57,389 --> 00:17:58,802
when collected leaves of tassel.
202
00:17:59,200 --> 00:18:01,700
The mordedura is not almost never mortal by itself same.
203
00:18:01,999 --> 00:18:06,234
The hurdanos are the ones that, while they try to be cured, at times infect it
mortally.
204
00:18:19,887 --> 00:18:23,300
When they have finished collecting of leaves, the peasants return to the town
205
00:18:23,678 --> 00:18:26,778
and empty the content of the bags inside the houses.
206
00:18:29,889 --> 00:18:32,770
On these leaves animals and people sleep together.
207
00:18:32,999 --> 00:18:36,700
The leaves decompose slowly and, some months later,
208
00:18:37,002 --> 00:18:38,600
they will use them as a guarantee.
209
00:18:50,770 --> 00:18:52,400
This is the house of an inhabitant of Fracassant.
210
00:18:52,790 --> 00:18:55,900
Through the entrance you walk on a bed of leaves,
211
00:18:56,200 --> 00:18:58,802
that is always present in the houses of the hurdanos.
212
00:19:03,990 --> 00:19:06,004
Interior characteristics of a house.
213
00:19:06,300 --> 00:19:09,100
All the utensils are primitive and scarce.
214
00:19:22,990 --> 00:19:27,345
The smoke leaves where it is able. There are no chimneys or windows.
215
00:19:33,800 --> 00:19:36,800
In summer, the water runs almost dry and this fact
216
00:19:37,140 --> 00:19:40,821
is the origin of malaria, transmitted by the mosquito anofeles.
217
00:19:41,335 --> 00:19:43,969
is able to say that all the hurdanos are affected by malaria.
218
00:19:44,370 --> 00:19:46,589
This illness at present is fought by
219
00:19:46,921 --> 00:19:49,440
the doctors of the three "Factories" of The Hurdes.
220
00:19:49,743 --> 00:19:52,304
The larva has to rise to the surface of the water to breathe.
221
00:19:52,620 --> 00:19:55,702
If it stays parallel to the surface, it is a larva of anofeles.
222
00:19:55,990 --> 00:19:59,900
If is stays perpendicular, it is a larva of culex, an inoffensive mosquito.
223
00:20:00,400 --> 00:20:02,823
The adult anofeles is found in all the houses in the hurdes.
224
00:20:03,100 --> 00:20:06,300
it can be recognized because of its perpendicular pose on the wall.
225
00:20:13,689 --> 00:20:16,003
This is the result of a anofeles bite.
226
00:20:16,400 --> 00:20:19,700
A man attacked by the fever, seated near its house.
227
00:20:28,756 --> 00:20:31,604
You can find many patients on the streets.
228
00:20:39,367 --> 00:20:43,100
This patient put to bed on the balcony does not suspect our presence.
229
00:20:43,400 --> 00:20:45,880
Balconies are rare
230
00:20:46,100 --> 00:20:48,200
in the majority of the towns of The Hurdes.
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The dwarves and the cretins abound in The High Hurdes.
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Generally their families employ them to take care of the goats.
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Some are dangerous.
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OR well flee of the men, or well attack them to stonings.
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They are found in the mountain at the fall of the night,
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when return to the town.
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We had great difficulties in filming some of them.
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The realism of a Zurbar�n or of a Bank,
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remains under very similar reality.
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The degeneration of this race owes itself mainly to hunger,
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to the lack of hygiene, to the misery and to incesto.
242
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the lowest that see here is twenty-eight years old.
243
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Here is another type of old cretino.
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We could only film this thanks to the contribution
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of one of our friends of the hurdanos that knew to entertain its speaker.
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A day, we see a group of persons in front of the door of a house.
247
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A boy has just died.
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The mother.
249
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A death is one of the rare events that can roll himself in these miserable
towns.
250
00:22:45,600 --> 00:22:49,005
The women respond in mass to the funeral house.
251
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They have explained the complications in transporting a corpse,
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due to that, in many towns, there is not cemetery.
253
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They had to transport this boy to the cemetry of Nu�omoral,
254
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and we decide to continue the body.
255
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The corpse was placed in a trough
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and taken for many kilometres through the thickets.
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If the dead person is an adult,
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they tie the body to a stair and carry him thus to the cemetery.
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This sometimes requires hours of march.
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See the step of a river with the corpse.
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The cemetery shows that, in spite of the great misery of the hurdanos,
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its religious and moral ideas are the same as
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in any another part of the world.
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The court summons of the tombs is indicated by a cross
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or by a piece of wood.
266
00:24:16,698 --> 00:24:20,999
The uniquely luxurious things that we have found in The Hurdes are the churches.
267
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This is found in one of the most miserable towns.
268
00:24:30,690 --> 00:24:33,002
An interior of the most comfortable of the inhabitants.
269
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Here are the father, the son, the daughter-in-law and the two grandchildren.
270
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On the wall, the presence of this role trimmed and
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the alignment of the covers detonate a certain sense of the decoration.
272
00:24:47,779 --> 00:24:50,880
In some towns, a woman travels through the streets at night.
273
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Is the pregonera of the death?
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Goes agitating a chime and at times stops for salmodiar a prayer.
275
00:25:02,789 --> 00:25:06,400
All the inhabitants of a house hurdana live in an only room.
276
00:25:06,739 --> 00:25:09,800
This house is a little more comfortable.
277
00:25:10,132 --> 00:25:12,900
Is composed of a stable in the lower flat and,
278
00:25:13,228 --> 00:25:16,100
in the first flat, of a kitchen and one room.
279
00:25:16,432 --> 00:25:18,340
Surprisingly, there is a bed.
280
00:25:32,672 --> 00:25:35,380
The hurdanos go to bed completely dressed in winter.
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00:25:35,650 --> 00:25:38,006
They wear the clothes until they fall in shreds.
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00:25:43,778 --> 00:25:45,999
This is what this woman says:
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00:25:46,220 --> 00:25:50,002
"Not to have swum that maintain better awake than thinking always in the
death.
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00:25:50,300 --> 00:25:54,001
you Pray a Fowl Mar�a by the rest of the soul of. .."
285
00:25:55,250 --> 00:25:58,980
after being two months in The Hurdes, we leave the region.
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00:26:11,003 --> 00:26:16,400
The misery that this movie comes to show us is not a hopeless misery. In
other regions of Spain,
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monta�eros, rural and working its conditions of life managed to improve being associated, being helped mutually,
288
00:26:23,156 --> 00:26:29,560
being claimed near the Public Powers. This current that will carry the Town toward a better life,
289
00:26:29,900 --> 00:26:35,460
will orient the last elections and will give place to the birth of a government of the Popular Front.
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The rebellion of the generals helped by Hitler and Mussolini should
re-establish the privilege of the large owners,
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but Working and Rural of Spain they will conquer to Franco and their
accomplices. With the aid of the antifascist of all
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00:26:46,300 --> 00:26:49,703
the world, the calm, the work, the happiness, they gave rise to the civil war
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00:26:50,002 --> 00:26:53,777
and they will make the miserable homes that this film has shown you disappear forever.
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27864
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