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When I'm in Italy,
when I'm on holiday,
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the first thing I do is go to
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a market.
And, of course, it's about the food,
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00:00:10,400 --> 00:00:12,240
but it's not just about the food.
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00:00:12,240 --> 00:00:13,840
It's the attitude as well.
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Buongiorno!Buongiorno.
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Posso prendere...?Si.
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I really try and hold on to that
when I'm at home,
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because I really believe that if you
bring that attitude to your cooking,
and that enjoyment,
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then that pleasure translates
to the people who are eating
what you've cooked,
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and that makes me happy.
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Ciao! Buongiorno!
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00:00:40,640 --> 00:00:42,760
And when I'm cooking for friends
at home,
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a favourite is roast pork loin
rolled with Parma ham and oregano,
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served atop a messy bed of rocket.
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00:00:51,160 --> 00:00:55,280
Alongside is my express take on
a classic Roman dish
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of artichokes, peas and beans.
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00:00:59,440 --> 00:01:01,640
If we're talking effortless
but impressive,
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00:01:01,640 --> 00:01:04,520
you can't beat a pudding
of frozen berries
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blanketed with white chocolate
and Limoncello sauce.
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Here we are!Lovely!
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But when I want to bring
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something delicious to the table
just for myself,
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a new favourite
is my spelt spaghetti
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with a no-cook olive
and anchovy sauce.
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If I ever have any time to myself,
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which, believe me,
is a pretty rare occurrence,
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my ideal is a gentle
stove-side pottering
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followed by a languorous sweet eat.
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I am ready for my sambuca kisses
and, what's more,
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they are the weekend brunch
of my dreams.
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Start off with just under
half a tub of ricotta.
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That's what keeps them light
in part.
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And I want one egg.
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00:02:10,800 --> 00:02:13,920
You don't really need to beat it in,
just stir.
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No challenges here.
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I call them sambuca kisses
for a reason.
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The sambuca part is here.
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Lots of people are put off this
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cos it tends to be the first drink
anyone ever gets drunk on.
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They have sambuca kisses
of a different sort,
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but the slight breath of aniseed
it gives really converts people.
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And I call them kisses
because what they taste like are...
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doughnuts made not of batter,
but of sweet air.
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It is like the lightest,
most fluttering caress in the mouth.
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And to balance that,
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I have orange zest -
again, just about a teaspoon.
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00:03:12,280 --> 00:03:14,880
Oh! Here comes the sun.
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Teaspoon of sugar,
they're not terribly sweet.
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00:03:27,080 --> 00:03:30,520
And now, I need about
an espresso cup-worth of flour...
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..and a teaspoon of baking powder.
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It's quite a lot for
the amount of batter here,
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but they puff up so gloriously.
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And this is pretty well
an instant mix.
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And frying them takes
under five minutes.
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All very relaxing.
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00:03:54,920 --> 00:03:57,600
I find it makes life easier
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to oil a teaspoon or,
at least, dip it in oil
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before using it to scoop out
some of this golden batter.
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00:04:06,120 --> 00:04:11,560
And then, they just drop in.
They puff up immediately,
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00:04:11,560 --> 00:04:14,360
a bit like toffee apples you get
in Chinese restaurants,
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only much lighter.
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00:04:18,520 --> 00:04:23,960
I like it when the round
little kisses grow tails.
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That's more crunch later,
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00:04:25,920 --> 00:04:29,960
so you have the gentle, soft
interior, and then a bit of crunch.
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00:04:33,320 --> 00:04:36,200
Just going to turn them a bit
in the oil.
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There, they're crisp and tanned,
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and they're coming out.
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Right, I want my coffee on my tray,
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I want the kisses on my plate.
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Oh! They're so light,
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they make frying feel celestial.
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00:05:23,760 --> 00:05:27,200
I'm being generous with
some icing sugar,
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00:05:27,200 --> 00:05:29,880
which is one of the reasons
I didn't add a lot of sugar
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when I was making the mixture.
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Oh, my goodness me!
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I can't look at these
without feeling hungry.
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They are the perfect any-time treat.
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I want them now.
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There's not a type of pasta
I don't love.
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This larder is gratifyingly
full of the stuff.
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00:06:34,840 --> 00:06:38,440
But recently, I've developed
something of a pash for
spelt spaghetti.
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00:06:38,440 --> 00:06:41,720
But, you know, there's nothing new
under the sun
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and spelt is, in fact,
an ancient wheat.
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It's robust, it's earthy,
and it deserves a full-on sauce.
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When I say a full-on sauce,
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I am talking about flavour.
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Effort is minimal.
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00:07:02,000 --> 00:07:07,080
My spelt spaghetti with olives
and anchovies is a breeze.
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In they go.
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These hessian, woven strands.
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It's a bit like
wholewheat spaghetti, spelt spag,
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only not quite as dense.
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Now, the sauce.
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No cooking involved.
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Tumbling in of ingredients
and a quick glitz.
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Start off with some olives.
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00:07:28,720 --> 00:07:30,240
I prefer green,
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but the only important thing
is that they're pitted.
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And anchovies.
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00:07:37,600 --> 00:07:40,680
This sauce is, at least,
loosely based on pesto,
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so after these fruits of the earth
and the ocean, some pine nuts.
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A good scattering.
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Garlic too.
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00:07:56,720 --> 00:08:01,000
I love the punch you get from
the salty anchovies and the olives,
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00:08:01,000 --> 00:08:04,200
but really, I need zing as well,
and, for that,
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I want a lemon.
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00:08:05,440 --> 00:08:07,920
And what's more,
zest, as well as juice.
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00:08:07,920 --> 00:08:10,720
There's no point using
just the juice,
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because all the flavours
lie in the zest.
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Those aromatic oils.
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I'm not going to worry unduly about
getting the odd pip in the sauce.
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Parsley is nearly always used
as a garnish.
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It's a horrible word,
but that's what it is.
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But when you use it
as an actual ingredient,
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you notice how strong it is, what
flavour, full of iron as well.
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Or that's what it tastes like to me.
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00:08:48,400 --> 00:08:51,040
I don't need salt,
because of the anchovies.
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However, I need oil,
and quite a bit of it,
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to help this emulsify
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and become a sauce.
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I'm ready to blitz.
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Even though there are a lot of
anchovies in here,
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you'd be surprised how many
anchovy-phobes like this.
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And we're done!
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00:09:20,920 --> 00:09:22,400
Now, I admit,
at this stage
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it may not seem to have
the wow factor,
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but one taste and it's kapow!
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00:09:28,720 --> 00:09:31,360
Let's see how the pasta is.
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It should be about ready.
I'll have a quick check.
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Let's go.
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Mmm! Perfect,
still with a bit of bite to it.
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Before I drain the pasta,
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I want to hive off some of
the starchy cooking water,
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as is my wont.
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Anticipation.
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00:10:07,240 --> 00:10:11,240
Final blitz with my pasta water,
just a bit of it.
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00:10:14,640 --> 00:10:18,240
It's like adding cream to a sauce,
it's just magic.
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00:10:22,920 --> 00:10:26,960
And now, I'm excited,
cos it's ALL coming together.
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Pasta back in its pan, on top...
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..a gloop of green sauce.
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This spaghetti, that sauce,
they are made for one another,
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and for me.
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00:10:50,040 --> 00:10:52,840
This spelt spag is actually great
cold as well.
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So I'll leave some to eat cold,
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but I think most now warm.
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Herb-flecked and fragrant.
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Since I do have some sauce
left in here, not a lot,
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but enough for a final anointing.
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I hate waste.
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I am happy, because I know
its modest appearance
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utterly belies its magnificence.
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00:11:33,760 --> 00:11:36,040
Mmm. Mmm!
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I can't stop this!
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Posso prendere?Certo.
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Grazie.
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Even the memory of Italian markets
provides constant inspiration.
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Everyone's robust and joyful
attitude towards food
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is in my mind whenever I cook.
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Never more so than when I'm making
one of my extra special suppers,
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roast pork loins served with
broad beans, artichokes and peas,
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and my mystery mock mash.
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Going to unveil the pork properly
in a minute,
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but first, I have
a little aperitif-accompanying
morsel to attend to.
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This is the crackling.
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After it's had about half an hour
in a really hot oven,
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it'll be blistered bronze.
And when it's at room temperature,
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I'm going to splinter it
into pieces,
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arrange it on some small plates
and sprinkle sea salt all over it.
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Yum!
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I've used a foil tin just because
I don't want the extra washing-up.
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And now, I am ready to roll.
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This is just a bit of pork loin
that's been derinded,
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and you've seen what's happened to
that, and opened out like a book.
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I just ask the butcher to do it,
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because I'm not very good at
knife skills.
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And, anyway, at supermarkets,
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they will often do it for you now
as well.
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I'm flavouring this pork
from within.
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Start off with garlic.
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I know that it's falling
into clumps,
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but I'll smooth it
with a spatula later.
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Mmm.
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This is one of those recipes
that looks quite complicated
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when you see it in its finished
glory, but it's very simple.
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Next, some fresh oregano leaves.
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I love this method
of flavouring from within.
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It means you really get it
intensely.
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00:14:05,600 --> 00:14:09,520
And I'm leaving the stalks from
these leaves to cook alongside,
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to flavour any juices.
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So now, I've got
the heat of the garlic
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and the meadow sweetness
of the oregano.
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00:14:19,120 --> 00:14:23,160
On top, I am going for the honeyed
saltiness of the Parma ham.
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In fact, you could say
going the whole hog.
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Pig on pork.
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Beautiful.
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It makes the rolling up easier
later on
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00:14:38,680 --> 00:14:41,840
if you lay these beautiful
thin slices,
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pink as a kitten's tongue,
horizontally.
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00:14:52,920 --> 00:14:55,760
I'm intensifying
the heat of the garlic
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with the fieriness of some
dried red chilli flakes.
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00:14:59,200 --> 00:15:02,840
It always makes me feel
very Italian.
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00:15:09,120 --> 00:15:11,000
I am going to start rolling.
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00:15:11,000 --> 00:15:13,280
Try and roll it up tightly,
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so you keep all the flavour in,
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and it'll just curlicue out
as it cooks.
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00:15:22,400 --> 00:15:23,880
Perfect.
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00:15:23,880 --> 00:15:28,880
When you get the pork, ask for a bit
of butcher's twine at the same time
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00:15:28,880 --> 00:15:31,960
and don't feel that you need to be
expert to do this.
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When you've seen me tie it,
in very inept knots,
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you will feel reassured.
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These are not proper knots.
Terrible knots, in fact.
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But that's... That's how I roll.
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00:15:52,840 --> 00:15:55,840
These need to be, I would say,
at about four-centimetre intervals.
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00:15:57,760 --> 00:16:00,440
So we've got flavour
running through it
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00:16:00,440 --> 00:16:03,600
and now, I need a little
flavour platform to lie it on.
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00:16:03,600 --> 00:16:06,600
You can use onions,
but I am a banana shallot freak,
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00:16:06,600 --> 00:16:08,760
so I'm slicing these.
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00:16:08,760 --> 00:16:10,480
No need to peel.
220
00:16:14,040 --> 00:16:18,240
And then, you could arrange them
on your roasting tray...
221
00:16:23,800 --> 00:16:26,400
..and then scatter the stalks
that you've got left over
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from the leaves that are inside...
223
00:16:30,280 --> 00:16:32,840
..and then sit this baby on top.
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There, you lie there, my beauty.
225
00:16:39,160 --> 00:16:42,160
A little drizzle of olive oil,
regular olive oil.
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00:16:43,760 --> 00:16:46,160
And then when it's had about
an hour and a quarter
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in the hot oven,
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it'll be golden on top
and cooked inside.
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The pork pretty much cooks itself
from now on in.
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00:17:11,920 --> 00:17:14,320
I do need to spruce myself up
a little.
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00:17:14,320 --> 00:17:18,440
But otherwise, first, I want to get
on with my Roman braised vegetables.
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They are a freezer standby.
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00:17:21,480 --> 00:17:23,560
Once in a while, I go shopping
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00:17:23,560 --> 00:17:26,960
and buy frozen artichoke bottoms,
not hearts,
235
00:17:26,960 --> 00:17:29,680
frozen broad beans
and frozen peas
236
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and keep my stash in the freezer.
237
00:17:33,120 --> 00:17:35,360
I just tip the broad beans
into a bowl
238
00:17:35,360 --> 00:17:38,520
and cover them with boiling water
from a kettle.
239
00:17:41,280 --> 00:17:43,040
Just leave them for a while.
240
00:17:43,040 --> 00:17:45,480
Then I tumble out the pale
artichoke bottoms
241
00:17:45,480 --> 00:17:47,160
onto a chopping board
242
00:17:47,160 --> 00:17:49,280
and slice them thickly.
243
00:17:53,040 --> 00:17:54,640
I go back to the broad beans
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00:17:54,640 --> 00:17:59,240
and what I like to do is squeeze
each broad bean out of its shell.
245
00:18:00,800 --> 00:18:06,400
If you just give them a bit of
a push, the inner bean pops out.
246
00:18:06,400 --> 00:18:09,680
So now, it's time to get on with
the cooking.
247
00:18:09,680 --> 00:18:13,520
I like to use a shallow casserole
that's not very deep.
248
00:18:13,520 --> 00:18:16,520
I put in it some olive oil,
regular olive oil,
249
00:18:16,520 --> 00:18:18,880
and a knob of butter,
and let these warm.
250
00:18:22,560 --> 00:18:24,520
Into the warm butter and oil,
251
00:18:24,520 --> 00:18:28,320
I add the leaves, stripped
from a few sprigs of thyme.
252
00:18:28,320 --> 00:18:30,680
Such a wonderful scent, they give.
253
00:18:32,880 --> 00:18:37,560
Into this, I clatter in
a packet of frozen peas.
254
00:18:40,320 --> 00:18:44,600
Now, I add the pale strips
of artichoke bottoms
255
00:18:44,600 --> 00:18:47,040
and give the peas
and artichokes a stir.
256
00:18:49,800 --> 00:18:54,480
Now, the bright green broad beans
go into the pan and I add some salt,
257
00:18:54,480 --> 00:18:56,960
good sea salt,
and some white pepper as well.
258
00:19:00,280 --> 00:19:03,560
I add a splash of dry white vermouth
259
00:19:03,560 --> 00:19:05,000
and a splash of water.
260
00:19:06,160 --> 00:19:09,840
And then I stir and wait for
the vegetables to come to a bubble.
261
00:19:11,080 --> 00:19:14,000
Once they are boiling,
I turn them down
262
00:19:14,000 --> 00:19:18,960
and clamp on a lid and let them
braise for about 20, 25 minutes.
263
00:19:18,960 --> 00:19:20,920
Easy-peasy.
264
00:19:26,280 --> 00:19:28,160
Darling, I have to stop
your story...
265
00:19:28,160 --> 00:19:31,760
I'm going to get you to do this.
266
00:19:33,080 --> 00:19:34,440
Thank you very much.
267
00:19:34,440 --> 00:19:37,360
And it may not have...
268
00:19:37,360 --> 00:19:39,160
THEY CHUCKLE
269
00:19:41,720 --> 00:19:45,280
Ciccioli, ciccioli.
Which is? Ciccioli.
270
00:19:45,280 --> 00:19:48,640
Ciccioli, ciccioli. Pork
scratchings.Pork scratchings, yes.
271
00:19:48,640 --> 00:19:51,200
Italian pork scratchings.
272
00:19:51,200 --> 00:19:54,160
Oh, my God! Yes. Oh, my goodness me.
273
00:19:57,600 --> 00:20:01,240
This is exactly how I want it -
super-juicy and golden.
274
00:20:07,520 --> 00:20:11,000
Now, THIS is an example of
laziness rewarded.
275
00:20:11,000 --> 00:20:14,080
I didn't peel the shallots
and I never do,
276
00:20:14,080 --> 00:20:18,080
and the reason why these juices
are so deep and glorious and bronzed
277
00:20:18,080 --> 00:20:20,920
is because it comes from the skins.
278
00:20:20,920 --> 00:20:24,280
And now, the gravy continues
to make itself.
279
00:20:24,280 --> 00:20:27,600
Splash of dry white vermouth,
280
00:20:27,600 --> 00:20:30,600
although do use white wine
if you've got some open.
281
00:20:30,600 --> 00:20:36,280
And another splosh of
recently boiled water.
282
00:20:36,280 --> 00:20:41,320
Let me just scritch about the pan
a bit.
283
00:20:45,480 --> 00:20:50,520
So I can leave that to rest
and I am going to do my mock mash.
284
00:20:50,520 --> 00:20:54,720
I am aware that the notion
of mock mash sounds hideous.
285
00:20:54,720 --> 00:20:56,160
This is fabulous.
286
00:20:56,160 --> 00:21:00,000
I've got some warm milk here,
not too hot, a bit of butter.
287
00:21:00,000 --> 00:21:02,560
The reason why I call this mock mash
288
00:21:02,560 --> 00:21:04,680
is because it tastes like
mashed potato,
289
00:21:04,680 --> 00:21:08,520
but no potato has been harmed
in the making of this dish.
290
00:21:08,520 --> 00:21:10,320
The crucial ingredient -
291
00:21:10,320 --> 00:21:12,360
semolina.
292
00:21:12,360 --> 00:21:16,240
Now, for those of us who had
a lot of semolina pudding at school,
293
00:21:16,240 --> 00:21:18,040
it sounds a bit spooky.
294
00:21:18,040 --> 00:21:21,680
But actually, you know, if you
think polenta, which we're used to,
295
00:21:21,680 --> 00:21:23,120
it is just like that.
296
00:21:23,120 --> 00:21:26,320
And I'm cheesing it up afterwards,
297
00:21:26,320 --> 00:21:30,520
so it is very savoury
and so good with this pork.
298
00:21:31,560 --> 00:21:35,040
The authentic Italian version
would add eggs,
299
00:21:35,040 --> 00:21:37,680
and then let it get cold,
and then cut out shapes.
300
00:21:37,680 --> 00:21:38,960
But why do all that?
301
00:21:47,800 --> 00:21:50,840
I want to grate a bit of nutmeg
into here.
302
00:21:53,080 --> 00:21:54,280
Lovely.
303
00:21:58,240 --> 00:22:01,640
I'll turn this off,
before it gets even thicker,
304
00:22:01,640 --> 00:22:04,200
and whisk in the Parmesan.
305
00:22:04,200 --> 00:22:08,120
I've grated it already, because
they're a greedy lot over there.
306
00:22:14,080 --> 00:22:17,400
It's ready for the bowl.
I mean, it takes hardly any time.
307
00:22:26,920 --> 00:22:28,360
Mmm.
308
00:22:28,360 --> 00:22:30,760
You'd be surprised
how many people eat this
309
00:22:30,760 --> 00:22:33,200
and don't realise
it isn't mashed potato.
310
00:22:38,040 --> 00:22:39,560
A bit more nutmeg.
311
00:22:47,720 --> 00:22:49,480
Now I'm ready for you, my beauty.
312
00:23:00,200 --> 00:23:01,840
This is an easy job,
313
00:23:01,840 --> 00:23:04,000
a few firm slices.
314
00:23:06,280 --> 00:23:09,720
I want them to be fairly chunky,
so they don't fall apart.
315
00:23:11,800 --> 00:23:15,120
I love the way
the unfurling of flavour
316
00:23:15,120 --> 00:23:17,960
is also like the unfurling of
the Italian flag -
317
00:23:17,960 --> 00:23:19,280
the white of the pork,
318
00:23:19,280 --> 00:23:22,560
the red of the chilli
and the green of the oregano.
319
00:23:22,560 --> 00:23:24,400
Tricolore pork.
320
00:23:31,360 --> 00:23:34,680
So now these slices of pork
can nestle in their garden.
321
00:23:43,840 --> 00:23:45,760
So beautiful.
322
00:23:45,760 --> 00:23:51,080
Somehow makes a roast look lighter,
more exciting.
323
00:23:51,080 --> 00:23:53,320
Not that there's anything wrong with
a roast.
324
00:23:57,600 --> 00:23:59,720
I don't want gravy-gravy.
325
00:23:59,720 --> 00:24:01,240
At least, not in the English sense.
326
00:24:01,240 --> 00:24:03,720
I'm far too Mediterranean
this evening.
327
00:24:03,720 --> 00:24:06,440
But I just would like to use
these juices
328
00:24:06,440 --> 00:24:10,520
to add gleam and liquid flavour.
329
00:24:10,520 --> 00:24:13,040
Mmm, beautiful!
330
00:24:17,080 --> 00:24:19,480
A bit of Renaissance polish.
331
00:24:21,080 --> 00:24:23,080
And a tavola!
332
00:24:25,360 --> 00:24:27,000
Oh, what's this?
333
00:24:27,000 --> 00:24:31,600
Pork loin with some oregano
and some Parma ham.Wow!Lovely!
334
00:24:35,320 --> 00:24:39,880
I have some broad beans,
artichokes and peas...Lovely.
335
00:24:39,880 --> 00:24:41,440
..and some mash.
336
00:24:43,200 --> 00:24:47,280
THEY CHATTER
337
00:25:06,080 --> 00:25:08,160
Let me get you some pudding.
338
00:25:19,200 --> 00:25:21,960
Now for my fabulous finale -
339
00:25:21,960 --> 00:25:26,000
frozen berries with a Limoncello
white chocolate sauce.
340
00:25:27,200 --> 00:25:29,600
Cream in, heat on,
341
00:25:29,600 --> 00:25:31,440
gently, gently.
342
00:25:31,440 --> 00:25:33,880
Melting chocolate
has to be cautious.
343
00:25:38,000 --> 00:25:43,360
I want the almost eggy vanilla
richness of the white chocolate
344
00:25:43,360 --> 00:25:45,600
to ooze into the cream.
345
00:25:47,160 --> 00:25:49,720
Sounds very sweet,
346
00:25:49,720 --> 00:25:51,400
and it is.
347
00:25:51,400 --> 00:25:55,880
But the berries are super-sharp
and, besides,
348
00:25:55,880 --> 00:25:58,320
THIS is what is changing this
349
00:25:58,320 --> 00:26:02,800
from what's become something of
a contemporary British classic
350
00:26:02,800 --> 00:26:05,480
into an Italianate version -
I add Limoncello.
351
00:26:07,440 --> 00:26:10,000
Lemon liqueur from
the Amalfi coast.
352
00:26:11,080 --> 00:26:12,920
And this lemonyness really helps
353
00:26:12,920 --> 00:26:16,680
with the sweetness of
the white chocolate as well.
354
00:26:16,680 --> 00:26:18,480
It's all about balance.
355
00:26:18,480 --> 00:26:22,320
So much easier to acquire it
in the kitchen than elsewhere.
356
00:26:25,560 --> 00:26:29,560
So while this melts gently,
357
00:26:29,560 --> 00:26:35,360
the berries can be clattered out
onto the plate.
358
00:26:38,920 --> 00:26:42,480
I do realise these are frozen,
but they are intentionally so.
359
00:26:42,480 --> 00:26:46,000
And a little dousing of Limoncello,
just as the cream had.
360
00:26:50,280 --> 00:26:51,800
Lemony gloss.
361
00:26:53,000 --> 00:26:57,200
Now, the thing is this,
as I pour over the hot sauce,
362
00:26:57,200 --> 00:27:00,640
the icy berries
begin to warm up slightly,
363
00:27:00,640 --> 00:27:03,400
while staying really chilled
in the middle,
364
00:27:03,400 --> 00:27:07,040
and the sauce solidifies
in the iciness of the fruit.
365
00:27:25,840 --> 00:27:29,080
Mmm, utter rapture!
366
00:27:32,960 --> 00:27:35,600
Here we are! Lovely!I'm going to...
367
00:27:35,600 --> 00:27:38,040
Since I have some flowers anyway...
368
00:27:38,040 --> 00:27:41,400
They're still quite sharp
and frozen inside.
369
00:27:43,560 --> 00:27:46,360
OK, so it's both
very sharp and very sweet.
370
00:27:48,920 --> 00:27:50,320
That's really good.
371
00:28:03,800 --> 00:28:05,400
Out of this world.
372
00:28:07,160 --> 00:28:10,560
I am transported
to the Italian seaside.
373
00:28:10,560 --> 00:28:13,160
GRATING
Oh, lovely sound.
374
00:28:19,240 --> 00:28:23,280
Look at these beautiful pink onions,
they make my soul sing.
375
00:28:23,280 --> 00:28:25,920
They would, if I had one!
376
00:28:25,920 --> 00:28:31,120
MUSIC: "Tu Vuo Fa L'americano"
377
00:28:55,720 --> 00:29:01,520
The inner bean, which is a vibrant
beautiful green, pops out.
378
00:29:01,520 --> 00:29:04,960
It's actually rather satisfying,
a bit like squeezing spots.
379
00:29:04,960 --> 00:29:06,600
Sorry!
380
00:29:06,600 --> 00:29:08,120
SHE LAUGHS
381
00:29:08,120 --> 00:29:09,560
OK!
382
00:29:10,640 --> 00:29:13,880
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