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CHURCH BELLS RING
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This is where my great love affair
with Italy began.
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00:00:12,600 --> 00:00:18,520
I came here as a teenager
to Florence and in fact worked
as a chambermaid in this very hotel.
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00:00:18,520 --> 00:00:24,040
I just wanted to be Italian,
I think, and I absorbed it all,
I loved it all,
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00:00:24,040 --> 00:00:29,000
but the food has been
an enduring inspiration.
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00:00:35,520 --> 00:00:38,680
Buon giorno.Buon giorno.
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00:00:38,680 --> 00:00:41,560
I suppose I regard Italy
as my gastronomic
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and, dare I say it, and I probably
shouldn't, but I'm going to anyway,
my spiritual home.
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00:00:47,120 --> 00:00:50,160
It's not that I'm trying
to pretend to be Italian,
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00:00:50,160 --> 00:00:54,640
but more that I want
to evoke the spirit of Italy
just on my own doorstep.
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00:00:57,320 --> 00:01:01,080
So this is really all about my kind
of Italian cooking,
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00:01:01,080 --> 00:01:04,880
but just using ingredients
a little closer to home.
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00:01:06,720 --> 00:01:08,960
'In Italy, food is life.
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00:01:08,960 --> 00:01:11,200
'It's family, it's tradition,
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'it's passion.'
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00:01:13,320 --> 00:01:16,560
Utter rapture. 'It's style,
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'it's confidence and I love that.'
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00:01:20,400 --> 00:01:27,040
Out of this world! 'I'm taking the
bold flavours of Italy and giving
them my own express approach.'
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One taste and it's kapow!
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00:01:40,800 --> 00:01:44,840
You can't come to Florence without
encountering Florentine steak.
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00:01:44,840 --> 00:01:48,360
It's justly famous,
a huge T-bone cooked over a grill.
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00:01:48,360 --> 00:01:53,920
I never had the chance to try this
when I lived in Florence
and I wouldn't attempt it at home.
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00:01:53,920 --> 00:01:57,560
Instead, I've got my own version
of another Italian classic,
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00:01:57,560 --> 00:02:00,760
the tagliata, which is simply
a steak that you cook,
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then slice on the diagonal,
so you can feed two people
out of one steak.
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If you have steak, you have chips.
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If you have my tagliata,
you've got to have my Tuscan fries.
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00:02:16,040 --> 00:02:18,160
I don't peel the potatoes,
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but I just chop them really more
into the size of British chips
than French fries,
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00:02:23,160 --> 00:02:25,920
then I slightly dry them
with a tea towel,
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so they have no excess starch
or liquid.
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00:02:29,640 --> 00:02:34,800
And then this is
the radical departure
and you have to have faith.
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00:02:34,800 --> 00:02:40,000
Instead of plunging
my raw potato chips into hot oil,
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I put them into cold oil.
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00:02:42,120 --> 00:02:48,160
You would think this would make for
soggy chips that absorb a lot of oil
and this is not the case.
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00:02:48,160 --> 00:02:54,000
These make simply the best chips
I've ever had,
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00:02:54,000 --> 00:02:57,440
crisp on the outside
and sweet and fluffy inside.
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00:02:57,440 --> 00:03:01,400
But what's going to make these
into Tuscan fries,
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00:03:01,400 --> 00:03:05,840
rather than French fries, is the
addition of fresh garlic and herbs,
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dropped gently into the bubbling oil
towards the end of the cooking.
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00:03:10,160 --> 00:03:13,560
I think it's all coming together
perfectly now.
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The griddle is ready to set my steak
a-sizzling and the chips are ready
for their garlic.
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00:03:18,880 --> 00:03:24,000
Beautiful pink cloves. I shall
drop them in gently, of course.
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00:03:24,000 --> 00:03:29,440
The thing about the garlic cloves,
because they're fried
in their skins,
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00:03:29,440 --> 00:03:34,480
it's as if the insides steam
to a caramelised stickiness.
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00:03:37,080 --> 00:03:39,720
Vegetarians turn away now.
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I have a luscious steak
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that needs sizzling.
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It's incredibly easy.
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Two minutes a side,
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then let it rest for two minutes
a side in its marinade,
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or rather its post-hoc marinade,
because it goes in after,
rather than before cooking.
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00:03:56,960 --> 00:04:02,560
Let's get on with that.
I start off with some olive oil,
proper extra-virgin olive oil.
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00:04:02,560 --> 00:04:06,400
Somewhere between a marinade
and a dressing, really.
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00:04:07,400 --> 00:04:09,800
A splash of red wine vinegar.
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00:04:12,920 --> 00:04:14,960
My favourite -
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an inferno of red chilli flakes.
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00:04:21,400 --> 00:04:23,720
And some dried oregano.
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And "sale".
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I'm going to swirl it about.
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I love those colours
and that's because I know
what it's going to taste like.
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Time to turn the steak first time,
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shooting from the hip.
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00:04:45,520 --> 00:04:51,320
Great. I'm going to get all my herbs
ready, a beautiful Tuscan bouquet.
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I've got sage, which is bitter,
but in a good way,
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00:04:55,480 --> 00:04:59,520
and I love the way the Italians fry
sage, often adding it to pasta.
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00:04:59,520 --> 00:05:03,360
I've got rosemary - just the smell
of Italian summer for me.
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00:05:03,360 --> 00:05:07,680
I have thyme, which is just
absolutely my favourite herb.
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00:05:07,680 --> 00:05:12,400
I've got some oregano, but I'm going
to keep those for the steak later.
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Right...
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Everything...
Everything is keeping me calm.
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I'll turn this off the heat.
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In this goes to its marinade.
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So what happens now
is that the juices from the steak
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ooze into the marinade
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and the fiery flavours of the
marinade ooze back into the steak.
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00:05:33,760 --> 00:05:37,160
It's what you call
a very good relationship.
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00:05:37,160 --> 00:05:40,000
I shall get cracking
with my tomatoes.
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An arduous task,
slicing them in half(!)
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Of course, these cherry tomatoes
have sweetness in them,
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but what I particularly like here
is they've got just enough acidity
to make the steak taste sweet.
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It's one of the things the Italians
always know, which is why
they often put lemon on their steak.
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00:05:59,840 --> 00:06:05,040
If you have a bit of acid with meat,
everything, all the flavours
intensify.
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Right, that's its first side
in the marinade.
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00:06:12,160 --> 00:06:16,720
Already it's yielded up
all that glorious juice.
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Last bit of luscious resting
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and I am going to herb up the chips,
the fries.
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In goes the sage.
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Some rosemary, not too much.
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Just enough to add
its sweet, resiny flavour,
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00:06:36,200 --> 00:06:39,440
and then a few sprigs of thyme.
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You can never have too much thyme!
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Final stretch, home stretch.
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So...
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The steak goes on the board.
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Just before I carve it, I'll drop
the tomatoes in, cut side down,
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so some of the tomato flavour
oozes out into the marinade,
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00:07:04,440 --> 00:07:07,960
and then the marinade coats
the tomatoes.
99
00:07:07,960 --> 00:07:10,600
So it's a bit of give,
a bit of take.
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00:07:11,920 --> 00:07:16,320
So, I know I am the world's worst
carver, but even I can slice a steak
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00:07:16,320 --> 00:07:21,000
and this brings me to why
it's called a "tagliata" in Italian
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because "tagliare"
just means "to cut".
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In the same way, actually,
"tagliatelle" just means pasta
that's been cut into little strips.
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00:07:30,400 --> 00:07:35,920
The joy of it here
is that instead of using
a huge, Italian T-bone steak,
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I just use a regular sirloin steak
and can make one steak feed
two greedy people.
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To serve this,
I have artistic pretensions,
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by which I mean I just let
the bits of steak drop where they do
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and then afterwards, I fill in
the gaps with the tomatoes.
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00:07:59,640 --> 00:08:02,600
And now this is the bit I love,
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these burnished, fiery juices
just trickled on top of the steak
and tomatoes.
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00:08:15,280 --> 00:08:19,320
You don't have to add fresh oregano,
but if you have some to hand,
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it would be madness not to.
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And now my chips.
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I...am going to exercise
unfamiliar caution
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and take the chips out.
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I've got some parchment here,
you could use kitchen towel,
just to absorb any excess grease.
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These are not what you'd expect
from chips cooked from cold oil.
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Ah, you can hear they're crisp!
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It's ready, it's ready, it's ready.
Thank you.That sounds enthusiastic.
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You might need to take this
from me, Bruno. Am I doing water?
You can do water. Hmm!
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I might add a bit of salt.
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That's what I did. Thank you
for pouring me some water(!)Sorry.
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You don't have a glass. Any
particular ones you want me to aim
for?Squishy. Squishy, not crisp?
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I'm not going to give you
any tomatoes. Don't worry.
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How's your day been?
Bad? Good?Fine.
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Fine.
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LAUGHTER
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It looks like you're joining in.
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My children are bigger than me now,
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but luckily, I've always got
lots of other people's little ones
surrounding me, so I'm happy.
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It happens that my meatzza and my
chocolate hazelnut cheesecake are
just perfect for this sort of thing.
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It's a family favourite
because those two things are my
stepdaughters' absolute favourites.
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Because the cheesecake needs to sit
in the fridge for a long while,
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I always get started with this
the night before.
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The base is made
like most cheesecake bases.
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That's to say,
a mixture of digestives and butter.
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And I add two other ingredients -
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some chocolate hazelnut spread
and some chopped hazelnuts.
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I then blitz
all these ingredients together
until they resemble damp sand.
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Tip this mixture into a cake tin
and press it down smooth.
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00:10:56,640 --> 00:10:59,480
The base is made
and ready in the fridge.
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I now have to make the topping
which is as easy as uno, due, tre.
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So, uno...
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It is a cheesecake,
so we have cream cheese.
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As easy as this is,
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I have got
some very strict stipulations.
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And chief of those
is that the cream cheese must be
at room temperature.
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You will never get a gorgeously
smooth texture in a cheesecake
if the cream cheese is fridge-cold.
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Due...
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Icing sugar - not an awful lot
because there is sweetness to come.
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This, incidentally,
is a no-bake cheesecake,
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so it's just a question
of mixing up a topping,
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slathering it on to the base
and putting it in the fridge to set.
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And now, tre, and very important -
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chocolate hazelnut paste.
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Now, I do know, I really do,
that cheesecake is not Italian,
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but you know what,
I have a pot of Italy right here.
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The chocolate hazelnut paste,
originally called "pasta gianduja",
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was one of my early discoveries
and I just fell in love with it.
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I'm determined to get
every last bit out of this.
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Now I'm just mixing
these three ingredients together,
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and while they're mixing, I shall
slink off and retrieve my base.
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It looks perfect to me,
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all smooth and whipped.
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This is my treat later.
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There's not a huge amount
of mixture here,
167
00:13:15,680 --> 00:13:20,880
but you don't want this
to be overwhelmingly rich.
168
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You just want it to be
gloriously indulgent.
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It's actually rather therapeutic
trying to get the top smooth.
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It doesn't need to be too smooth
because I am going to scatter
some hazelnuts on top,
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ready toasted, ready chopped.
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Actually, it does occur to me that
this entire cheesecake is made out
of ingredients from packets or jars.
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Should I be embarrassed? I'm not.
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I love the sudden,
bronzy gold topping.
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Tutto a posto!
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Both cheesecake
and cheesecake maker can now chill.
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00:14:05,640 --> 00:14:09,000
# Lasciano tracce impercettibili
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00:14:09,000 --> 00:14:11,160
# Le traiettorie delle mongolfiere
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# E l'uomo che sorveglia il cielo
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00:14:13,360 --> 00:14:15,640
# Non scioglie la matassa del volo
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# E non distingue piu l'inizio
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00:14:18,080 --> 00:14:20,480
# Di quando sono partite
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00:14:20,480 --> 00:14:24,520
# Sopra gli ormeggi e la zavorra
Sono partite... #
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00:14:25,520 --> 00:14:30,560
My cheesecake has had time to set,
resting overnight and the rest
in the fridge,
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00:14:30,560 --> 00:14:33,400
and I need do nothing further
with that.
186
00:14:33,400 --> 00:14:39,520
All I have to do is consider
my meatzza. Now, my meatzza is
a wondrous thing, I say immodestly.
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It's like a pizza,
as you might guess,
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but instead of having a bread base,
it's got like a meatball mixture
that's squished flat into a disc.
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My meatzza is a regular fixture
on the menu in Casa Lawson.
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It is so easy to make.
191
00:14:56,760 --> 00:15:00,920
You need a fairly large-sized bowl
with some minced meat in it.
192
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Break two eggs
on to the minced meat,
then sprinkle over some Parmesan.
193
00:15:08,240 --> 00:15:12,280
And that's really to give saltiness
and boost flavour.
194
00:15:12,280 --> 00:15:17,320
Then you can add either breadcrumbs,
which is more Italian,
or porridge oats.
195
00:15:17,320 --> 00:15:21,840
What you want is to help the base
of the meatzza firm up.
196
00:15:22,840 --> 00:15:26,080
Mince over the mixture
a clove of garlic,
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00:15:26,080 --> 00:15:29,280
then sprinkle
with freshly chopped parsley.
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00:15:29,280 --> 00:15:33,120
These are the traditional
flavourings for Italian meatballs.
199
00:15:33,120 --> 00:15:38,120
Just mix everything together
in the bowl. I find this easiest
to do by hand.
200
00:15:38,120 --> 00:15:41,360
Whatever implement you choose,
do not overmix.
201
00:15:41,360 --> 00:15:46,600
Now put this mixture into
a greased, round baking tin.
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00:15:46,600 --> 00:15:53,280
Squish it down gently, remembering
not to press too hard. Again you
don't want to overwork the mixture.
203
00:15:56,280 --> 00:15:59,120
Open a can of chopped tomatoes
and drain it.
204
00:15:59,120 --> 00:16:03,160
I don't want any excess liquid
ruining my meatzza base.
205
00:16:04,640 --> 00:16:08,440
I add a sprinkling of dried oregano,
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00:16:08,440 --> 00:16:12,880
a small amount of sea salt
and a drizzle of garlic oil.
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00:16:14,800 --> 00:16:20,120
Stir that to mix
and then use it to spread
over the top of the meatzza base.
208
00:16:24,280 --> 00:16:27,760
Slice a mozzarella ball
into thinnish slices.
209
00:16:27,760 --> 00:16:31,680
I think of this
as a cheese sunburst.
210
00:16:32,680 --> 00:16:36,440
This needs to go into a hot oven
for about 25 minutes,
211
00:16:36,440 --> 00:16:39,720
by which time the meat base is set,
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00:16:39,720 --> 00:16:42,080
the tomatoes bubbling
213
00:16:42,080 --> 00:16:44,560
and the cheese blistered gold.
214
00:16:44,560 --> 00:16:49,440
Before I slice and serve it,
I strew with fresh basil.
215
00:16:49,440 --> 00:16:51,600
It really does look like a pizza.
216
00:16:56,840 --> 00:17:00,080
# Per sentire una canzone con te
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00:17:00,080 --> 00:17:03,680
# Ed averti solamente per me... #
218
00:17:03,680 --> 00:17:05,880
Look at that!
219
00:17:05,880 --> 00:17:10,280
# E con me ti portero
In un piccolo e nascosto caffe
220
00:17:10,280 --> 00:17:14,000
# C'e la macchina dei dischi che va
221
00:17:14,000 --> 00:17:17,000
# Tanta musica per noi suoneri... #
222
00:17:17,000 --> 00:17:19,120
It's a cake!
223
00:17:19,120 --> 00:17:23,160
# Frankie Laine e Doris Day
Ogni cuore suoneri...
224
00:17:25,480 --> 00:17:28,720
# Jukebox e una magica invenzion
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# Jukebox, pochi soldi una canzon
Jukebox... #
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LAUGHTER
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Look, I have never made
any secret of the fact
that greed is my main motivation.
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I am so often inspired to cook
because of something I've eaten.
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I am also something
of a cookbook geek, certainly
a rather obsessive researcher.
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Let me explain.
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When I was last in Sicily,
I had some pasta with something
called pesto trapanese.
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And I wanted to find out more
about it when I got back.
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One thing that research teaches you,
and this is incredibly important,
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is there's no one authentic version,
not even with traditional recipes,
in fact, particularly not.
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Everyone wants there to be
one authentic way, but there isn't
and cooking can't be like that
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because cooking is alive,
like language,
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so, for example, this Sicilian...
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Excuse me.
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This Sicilian, in her pesto
trapanese, has a cup of basil.
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This Sicilian, however,
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he uses fresh mint
which is a fantastic herb.
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I associate it more with Sardinia
than Sicily, but that's
what he uses in his pesto trapanese.
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This Londoner, however,
uses neither herb in her pesto,
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but instead scatters fresh basil
on top of the pasta.
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I suppose now would be the time
to say that I have taken liberties
with this recipe.
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Whenever I've come across
this Sicilian pesto,
it's always been to dress spaghetti.
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These are fusilli lunghi,
just long fusilli.
I think of them as golden ringlets.
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But they are often described
less poetically as telephone cords.
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But I like them and the sauce
really clings to them well
because of all the ridges.
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So this just needs to cook
and the sauce doesn't need to cook.
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The sauce you just blitz up,
so here goes.
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There are three ingredients you will
always find in a Sicilian pesto and
the first one of these is garlic.
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I'm just going to peel it
and pop it in.
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Just as their northern counterpart's
pesto has pine nuts,
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in Sicily,
you always find it with almonds.
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They grow in abundance there.
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The third ingredient
in this holy trinity is tomatoes
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and I have a pig full of them.
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They're very sweet, these, both
in terms of taste and to look at.
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Just plonk them in.
I'm not peeling, I'm not de-seeding,
not doing anything.
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So the garlic, the almonds
and the tomatoes you'll always find,
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but the first time I had
pesto trapanese, I encountered
an altogether more baroque version
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and that contained anchovies,
as so much food in Sicily does.
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I love anchovies, but when I make
this for my children, who don't,
I just add Parmesan instead.
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It also contained sultanas.
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Regular sultanas or raisins
would be fine.
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And as so often in Sicily,
whenever you have sultanas
in a savoury recipe,
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you also find their lip-puckering
counterpart in the form of capers,
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so just a few of these
to scatter in.
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A bit of pungency.
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And of course, olive oil.
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Proper extra-virgin olive oil
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because this sauce
is not being cooked.
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You will taste its peppery flavour.
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And this, in essence, is the sauce.
I'm going to blitz it.
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I do this a lot for bigger crowds
of people and I use the processor.
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It's the perfect thing to cook
when you have a lot of people
to feed because it's no effort.
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But if you're not cooking
in any quantity,
a stick blender is just fine.
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That's it, well, barring
one ingredient, which I'll come to.
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Let's just see
how the pasta is getting on.
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Perfect.
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This is the essential ingredient
and it's not just for this sauce.
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It's the essential ingredient
for just about any pasta sauce.
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It is this - some of the starchy
water the pasta has been cooking in.
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I'm going to drain the pasta
and that's it.
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Almost embarrassingly low effort.
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I've just got the sauce to finish.
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I just want maybe a tablespoon or so
of the pasta cooking water
to go into the blender.
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Back it goes on, just to help it
become a bit velvety.
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See, look!
That is so easy and yet so perfect.
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And I'm a princess in a castle
with gold cutlery today.
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I am not going to eat all of this.
I mean, actually, I could,
but I'm not.
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The thing is, it's so fantastic cold
the next day for a packed lunch.
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Hideously inauthentic, I know.
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No Italian will own up to eating a
pasta salad, but it is really good.
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What I shall do is strew
picturesquely with my basil leaves.
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I say "buon appetito" to myself
and chow down.
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When I lived in Florence,
I was young, so obviously,
I wanted to have a good time,
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but there's only so much
of a good time you can have
on a chambermaid's wages.
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I preferred to spend my money
on a glass of Prosecco
than a fancy dinner,
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but I did manage to find one dish
that I could afford, that absorbed
alcohol, that was delicious
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and came with a free loaf of bread,
so I always chose it
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and actually, I still eat it now.
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I think my Eggs in Purgatory
may just be the best thing
to eat after a night out.
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On reflection, it may even be better
the morning after
and you will see why.
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So, a light coating of olive oil..
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and now for a bit of pungency,
a bit of fresh garlic.
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I'm using a whole garlic clove which
is quite a lot. This is a small pan.
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There is something
about returning to the books
you loved when you were young.
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It can be a disappointment,
but I can go back to this and it's
even better than when I was young.
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I would so much rather return
to the food of my youth
than to my youth itself,
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so my Eggs in Purgatory now
is the best of both worlds.
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The garlic is giving me warmth, but
I want heat and that means chilli.
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I like this to pack a punch.
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I have such a thing about little
pixie pans. This is my best yet.
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Quite a bit of chilli.
I want a kick here.
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I don't want the garlic to burn,
it'll just taste acrid,
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so I'm just smooshing it a bit
in the heat.
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Now for the tomatoes.
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SIZZLING
Hmm!
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It's very easy to size this up,
actually,
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because once you have a big pan,
more cans of tomatoes,
you can get more eggs in,
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but this is my selfish solo treat.
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Egg goes in.
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Beautiful.
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And now, I think, some Parmesan...
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Really, I'm using Parmesan in place
of salt, so I don't want too much.
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You could add salt
when you're eating,
but I'd rather leave it out now
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because the one thing you can't
rectify in cooking is oversalting.
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I'm going to pop a lid on,
just so the egg can poach.
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I'll get my bread ready.
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I can't wait!
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I love this particularly
on New Year's Day when one needs
a bit of resuscitation.
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I always say Eggs in Purgatory
is absolute heaven
when you're feeling like hell!
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Now...this is perfection.
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The tomatoes are bubbling,
the white is cooked
and the yolk is still runny.
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I am diving in!
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There's no other way to do this.
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It's only me, so I can double-dip.
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# Tu vuo fa l'americano
Mmericano... #
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Lovely.
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Like courgette confetti.
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Have you got a napkin?
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That gorgeous, golden tornado there!
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Since when has chocolate cake got
anything to do with need?
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# Tu giochi al basebal'
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# Ma e solde pe' Camel
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# Chi te li da?
La borsetta di mamma!
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# Tu vuo fa l'americano
Mmericano!
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# Mmericano!
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# Ma si nato in Italy!
Siente a mme
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# Non ce sta niente a ffa
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# OK, napolita!
Tu vuo fa l'american!
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# Tu vuo fa l'american! #
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21. Action!The base is already done,
so that's... OK.
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Can I hang this the other way,
so I don't hit things? I've made
the base... Oh, for God's sake!
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