All language subtitles for Salt.Fat.Acid.Heat.S01E03.PROPER.1080p.WEB.X264-EDHD

[Samin Nosrat] Acid.
It's the pucker in a lemon,

the sour in sour cream,

the tart in cranberry sauce.

It literally makes mouths water.

Acid brightens food and creates contrast.

Most importantly,

acid does the absolutely necessary job
of balancing flavors,

which makes it indispensable
to cooking delicious food.

[introduction music playing]

[birds chirping]

My mother raised me on the sour foods
she grew up eating in Iran.

The flavors of lime, pomegranate,
and yogurt

shaped to my palate.

So from a young age, I learned
to appreciate the beauty of acidity.

And that's why I've always been
so fascinated with Mexican food,

especially the cuisine from the Yucatán.

Ceviche, sopa de lima,

cochinita pibil,

all share many of the tart flavors
I grew up eating.

This makes Mexico the perfect place
to explore the element

that adds dimension to every dish.

[relaxed Mexican music playing]

-[Conchi] These are mandarins.
-[Samin] Mandarinas?

-Pineapple.
-Pineapple.

[Conchi] Citrus fruits
are very popular here.

[Samin] The Yucatán
is the citrus belt of Mexico,

where cooks expertly work sour ingredients
into everything they make.

-[Samin] And what's this?
-[Conchi] Maracuyá.

-Oh, it's passion fruit.
-Yes.

[Conchi] It's an acidic fruit.

[Samin] Oh, my God, so beautiful.

-Salt?
-[Conchi] Yes, and chili.

Okay.

Salud.

Wow! [laughs]

-It's very sour!
-It's very good.

The salt tames the acidity
and the sourness.

But the chili--

-It enhances the flavor.
-It does.

Thank you!

[Samin] Are those sour oranges?

No. These are sweet lemons.

[Samin] Sweet.

[vendor] Very, very sweet.

It's a very pleasant smell.

It's so sweet!

I need a little acid.

Try this.

Gooseberries.

-[vendor] They are sour.
-Okay.

[all laugh]

A good combination for her.

-[Conchi] Let's go look for sour oranges.
-[Samin] Sour oranges.

[Conchi] The sour orange
has a multitude of uses.

Here. This is the sour orange.

Sour orange is basic
to food seasoning here.

How do you use it?

To season meat, such as steak,

to marinate turkey,

to marinate chicken.

Sour oranges all the time?

Always. We never use vinegar.

No vinegar. It doesn't go in your dishes?

No. Just sour orange and lime.

-And lime?
-Yes.

[Samin] Sour oranges are
the defining acidic ingredient here,

used in salsas, marinades,
and even in cooked dishes.

Like the name suggests,

they're floral like oranges,
but tart like lemons.

In the north of Iran,
we also have the naranja agria.

And so the flavor of citrus
is very much in my blood also.

My mom used to sit in lemon trees
and lime trees

and snack on limes after school.

So this is a taste
also very familiar to me.

[Conchi] Very familiar,
one you're well acquainted with.

[Samin] But the list of acidic ingredients
extends far beyond citrus and vinegar.

Thank you, ma'am.

Anything fermented is also acidic.

That includes cheese,

pickles, and beer.

Most of us cook with acid
without even realizing it.

Think of beef stew cooked in red wine.

Or meatballs simmered in tomato sauce.

When used as a cooking medium,

acidic ingredients mellow,

becoming subtle but essential flavors
in a dish.

While acting as a counterpoint to salty,

fatty,

sweet,

and starchy foods.

[Samin, in Spanish]
We're going to make turkey in escabeche

with lots of sour orange juice.

[bell rings]

-To the kitchen?
-Let's go.

Escabeche is a way of cooking
that originated in Persia,

where my family is from,

and came to Mexico with the Spanish.

It means to pickle or cook in acid.

[Conchi] Two limes for bathing the turkey.

The limes make it taste better.

[Samin] Spanish cooks use vinegar.

In the Yucatán, citrus.

-Bathe it.
-Like you bathe a baby?

Exactly. [both laugh]

[Samin] Here, pavo en escabeche
is the local specialty.

Turkey and meatballs stewed together

in the highly acidic juice
of sour oranges.

-The sour orange.
-The sour orange.

[Samin] As it cooks,
the tartness of the oranges

transforms into a savoriness

that complements the turkey
without overpowering it.

Wow!

[both laugh]

We take the blender

to make our recado to marinate our turkey.

What defines a recado?

[Conchi] The spices.

So each food has its own mixture
of spices.

And a mixture of spices is a recado.

Yes. So we put our peppermint leaves in...

[Samin] Okay.

...the black peppercorn...

-All of it?
-All of it.

The clove, the cinnamon,

the garlic.

[blender whirring]

Smell that.

The cinnamon is really strong.

Now you rinse the blender
with the orange juice.

[Samin] Who taught you how to cook?

-My mom.
-Your mom.

-There are 11 of us.
-Eleven?

-I'm the little one.
-Oh!

[Samin] Turkey is the traditional meat
of this region, right?

[Conchi] Yes.

For holidays, birthdays, and Christmas,
we all eat turkey.

My mother taught me to
fish the turkeys out from the hen house,

slit their throats and clean everything.

So awesome.

So now that this is all seasoned,
do we let it sit for a while?

-Yes.
-For how long?

Five to ten minutes.

Oh, fast.

Marinating in acid
has a different effect on food

than cooking in it does.

A highly acidic marinade
will tenderize meat,

but if left too long,
the meat will toughen up,

like an overcooked steak.

I'll shape one ball,
you shape the next ones.

Okay.

-What kind of meat is this?
-[Conchi] Pork.

-Pork?
-We add capers and olives.

-[Samin] Olives?
-Yes.

A little hole in the middle
to make room for your egg.

Now you go.

Put two in: one there and one here.

Exactly like that.

We can put them in here.

[Samin] And out we go.

[Conchi] For the broth,
not too much water,

so it will be nice and tasty.

Just enough to cover the whole turkey.

[squish]

[both laugh]

We've got a live one here.

Now we roast the chili peppers
before throwing them in.

[Samin] Browning also produces acidity,
creating flavors that didn't exist before.

[wood crackling]

[Conchi] Without these chili peppers,
it's not a true escabeche.

They add a lot of extra flavor.

-The turkey?
-[Conchi] Yes.

[Samin] How much time?

About an hour.

Okay.

[Conchi] Now, we are going
to pickle the onions.

We add the orange.

You have to peel it first.
Otherwise, the juice will be too bitter.

[Samin] Soaking the onions in acid
takes the fire out of them

without diminishing the brightness
they add to a dish.

-Ready?
-Yes.

[Samin] Great.

The balls come out first.

[Samin] Okay.

Now, we take out the chili peppers.

-[Samin] Now the turkey?
-Yes.

[Samin] Beautiful. So tender.

[Conchi] And then you plate it.

There's your egg.

That's okay.

[both laugh]

You add a little broth.

-Put some of the meatball--
-A bit of everything.

[Conchi] That makes for a delicious combo.

Let's try it.

Thanks ever so much.

Hmm.

It's perfectly balanced. It's so good.

That's escabeche.

It's good!

Rico. [both laugh]

[birds chirping]

[Samin] Another way to use acid...

is as a garnish to add brightness.

A simple squeeze of lime over pho
cuts through the beefy broth.

A crumble of goat cheese
gives a needed tang to any salad.

And a splash of white wine
added just before serving

balances the starchy richness
of a risotto.

In Mexico, the most common acidic garnish
is a condiment I love.

The spicier, the better.

[old Mexican music playing]

♪ ¿Por qué no me besas? ♪

♪ Aquí, aquí ♪

♪ Que ya tengo sed ♪

♪ De tu dulce sabor ♪

[Samin] In Spanish,
"salsa" just means "sauce."

And there are endless variations.

But the one constant is acidity.

Tomatoes,

tomatillos,

sour oranges,

limes, and vinegar

can all be used to lend an acidic punch.

[Rodrigo] In Mexico, no salsa, no meal.

-You seem to know a lot about salsa.
-I love salsa.

It's my life.

[indistinct dialogue, music continues]

For example, breakfast can be chilaquiles
with red sauce or green sauce.

For lunch, guacamole in habanero sauce

just to get you starting, like,
a proper day.

And at night, maybe not that strong,

maybe some lighter stuff so you don't
wake up in the middle of the night.

You know? Like that.

-Oh!
-[waiter] Hola!

[Rodrigo] Perfect.

What do we have?

This is chili with white onion.

This is radish with cilantro.

[Samin] Okay.

[waiter] And sour orange.

And this is habanero chili
with tomato and onion.

-All roasted, then seasoned.
-All habanero?

It's all habanero. This is habanero.

-Spicy spicy?
-Very.

And some limes to go with the food.

-Thanks.
-Thanks a lot.

[Rodrigo] Which one you gonna try first?

Let's start with the least spicy
and work to the most spicy.

They all smell really strong.
That I can tell you.

I'm not from a spicy country.
I just grew up eating salsa.

-But you like it. I can see you like it.
-I love it a lot.

My family's from Iran
and we eat very acidic food.

And so the thing that we put on everything
is yogurt.

-Yogurt.
-Yogurt.

Even when my mom made spaghetti
or pizza, we put yogurt on it.

Same thing.

-That's like your relationship to salsa.
-Exactly.

Once I became a cook,
I stopped putting yogurt on everything.

You learned.

So this one has just onions, the naranja,

-and then raw habanero.
-Habanero.

So maybe I'll try that one.

All right, here we go.

Hmm.

That one's nice. It's just mostly acid.

This one, is it spicier?

Mm-hmm. Yes.

-That one's strong.
-This one's really strong.

You're not afraid of the habanero.
I can see it.

-My lips are on fire.
-It's on your lips?

-It's on your beard?
-On fire.

-I really want to just have that one.
-Try it.

-Okay.
-Be brave.

-I'm brave.
-I'll follow you.

Do you think I'll cry?

Crying's good.

Oh, my God.

[both laughing]

That's the spic--

It's so spicy!

I told you. Drink some beer.

You okay?

[laughter]

I'm gonna cry.

That was really too stupid of me.

You can use-- Eat some salt.

It helps you with the spicy.

I don't know, but at this point...

I'll take anything.

There's so much corn in the food here
and so much meat,

but they're plain flavors.

So when you put salsa on it...

-It gives you--
-...it gives it flavor and life.

-Cheers to that.
-Salud.

[sighs]

[Samin] Whether it's filled with pork,
potatoes, or fish,

what makes a taco a taco

is the corn tortilla.

It wraps all of the savory fillings
and spicy salsas

in the warm blanket of its embrace.

But that tortilla only exists

because of a process the Mayans developed
thousands of years ago

called nixtamalization.

Soaking corn in water and lime--

not that lime, that one--

makes it more nutritious and hydrates it

so that it can be turned into soft,
pillowy tortillas,

the best of which

are made by hand.

Where are we going?

To the mill to grind the corn,

so we can make the tortillas,
panuchos, and salbutes.

-Right here?
-Yes.

You go first.

[Samin] This is a community mill
where people bring their nixtamalized corn

to be ground up and turned into masa
for making tortillas.

[Mexican music playing]

♪ Adiós, mujer ♪

♪ Adiós para siempre, adiós ♪

♪ No volverá ♪

[Samin] The corn tortilla
is a perfect foil for acid

because it has such a soft
and steady flavor.

It balances the intensity
of acidic ingredients.

♪ Adiós, mujer ♪

♪ Adiós para siempre, adiós ♪

[tapping]

[tapping]

[Margarita] You have to do it very softly,

so it doesn't stick.

[Samin] Doña, how many tortillas
do you make every day?

[Asaria] Ah, I make about 200, 250.

-One hundred-fifty?
-Two hundred-fifty.

Two hundred-fifty? Every day?

-Mm-hmm.
-That's amazing.

And why do you prefer
to make them yourself

rather than to have them made in town?

We're just used to eating them like this.

[Margarita] Handmade tortillas are tastier
than machine-made ones,

because the machine squeezes out
all the oil so they dry out.

Oh, no! [laughs]

[laughing] I'm so bad at this!

Can we taste one?

-I like them golden.
-Ha!

[laughs]

What's in the salsa?

[Margarita] Salt, orange.

-[Samin] Sour orange?
-Yes.

Uh-uh. And habanero?

Okay.

Thank you.

So spicy!

[both laugh]

Hmm.

[Samin] Acidity is the product
of organic compounds

found naturally in foods.

They're responsible for making things
taste sour.

The level of acidity is measured
on something called a pH scale.

1 is the most acidic.

7 is neutral.

And 14 is alkaline,
the opposite of acidic.

For a little perspective,

lemons have a pH of 2.4,

while a Valencia orange
registers closer to 4.

And kale, which is slightly alkaline,

can have a pH of 7.2.

But technically,
anything with a pH below 7 is acidic.

And that opens up a whole variety

of unexpectedly tart ingredients.

Coffee,

chocolate,

even bananas are all sources of acid
that can be used to balance a dish.

One surprisingly sour ingredient

more often associated
with sweetness is honey.

[bell dings]

[bike engine thrumming]

[birds chirping]

This is tajonal honey.

Okay.

-Can I taste?
-Of course.

You can grab it. It's just wax.

-Oh, it's just wax.
-Just chew it, don't swallow it.

Okay.

Hmm.

Very tasty.

Yes.

[Samin] This honey is slightly acidic.

It comes from the European honey bee
and it's available all over the world.

Honey is a specialty here in the Yucatán.

The Maya people have been cultivating bees

and harvesting their honey
for thousands of years.

There's an especially acidic type
that's indigenous to this region.

[bees buzzing]

Hi! Welcome to Tixcacaltuyub.

"Tixcacaltuyub."

-Close enough.
-Okay!

Close enough.

This is Doña Pascuala and Don Carlos,
our hosts.

They were both born and raised here.

We're here to introduce you
to our meliponario hives.

-"Meliponario"?
-Yes.

Where did you learn the melipona culture?

It dates back to our ancestors.

[Pascuala] In the old times, our ancestors
would get honey from these bees.

[Rodrigo] A very tight bond was born

between the Mayas and the bees.

Meliponas are very friendly.

They do have a stinger,
but they can't use it to sting.

[Carlos] The women
would work the hives without wearing veils

or any protection
for their beekeeping activities.

The honey they yielded would be used
for medical purposes.

It would be given to women
who just gave birth.

To them,
it was the best vitamin they could get.

[Rodrigo] The quality of this honey
surpasses all other honeys.

Our ancestors introduced
harvesting techniques

that are deeply set in our culture.

[Pascuala] We all work together.
We harvest as a group.

[Carlos] We have a schedule in place

for everyone to come
and take care of the bees.

We clean. We give them water.
We watch over them.

It's like they're the boss
and we're the workers.

-We serve them.
-[Samin laughs]

This yellowish thing you see here,

that's the pollen.

[Samin] Pollen. This one's pretty amazing.

[Carlos] That attracts a number of vermin.

In these tiny jars,

we put apple vinegar.

[Samin] I do the same in my kitchen
to catch the fruit flies. [laughs]

The meliponas can't sting,

so the Maya developed mechanisms
to help them defend themselves.

[Pascuala] This canal was built here
to stop ants from crawling in.

Otherwise, they will kill the bees.

[Samin] It's so clever.

There are other ways to protect them.
For instance, with plants.

They are used in a more spiritual sense

to prevent negative vibes
or negative energies

from getting into the hives.

Bees are very sensitive.

[Samin] That is so beautiful.

Carefully, we open the box again.

These are the bits of honey
that we're able to harvest now.

We can extract the honey with the help
of this tiny syringe.

-[Rodrigo] It's extremely white.
-[Andrea] Yes.

[Samin] That's amazing.

What is the average yield for these hives?

A liter, or even less, per year.

And compared to regular honey?

-Thirty to 40 kilos of honey per year.
-[Samin] Wow.

Try to submerge this part
so that it doesn't suck in air.

So that you bring out only honey.

Got it.

-Like this?
-That's it.

-[Samin] These bees are so gentle.
-They don't even mind that--

No, we're just friends.

-I've never seen such clear honey.
-[Rodrigo] Yeah.

Is the color dictated
by something in particular?

It just depends on the flora.
It depends on the nectar they get.

[Andrea] Does the color
change the flavor, too?

[Rodrigo] Yeah.
It depends on the flowers, the season.

The environmental conditions.

Here are different varieties of honey
of different species of meliponas.

This is the first one.

It's called Melipona Yucatanica.

You can check how acidity--

Acidity, yes. Yes.

The first thing you notice,

it's so much more liquidy
than other honey.

How is it?

-It's so sweet.
-Yeah.

But it has a really distinct floral taste

that I've never experienced
in a honey before.

It also, at the end of it,
it has a little tang.

-[laughs]
-Mm-hmm.

This is called Scaptotrigona Pectoralis.

This honey is from big trees.

Wow.

This one's not only sour,
it has another taste, too.

-[Andrea] Like, buttery.
-Yeah.

This is incredible.

You grow up your whole life
thinking honey is one thing,

but there's actually so much more to it.

-You want?
-Okay. Yes, please.

This one is Cephalotrigona Sexmeniae.

The color is very similar.

Oh, my goodness. Oh, my gosh!

[laughter]

I was not expecting that!

Oh, my gosh!

It's hard to believe
there's not a lemon in there.

It's almost like honey lemonade
or something.

It's so acidic.

I've never tasted honey like this.

[buzzing]

[Samin] Not all cuisines
share the same affinity for acid.

I realized this in college when I went
to my very first Thanksgiving dinner.

I loved the turkey and stuffing.

But there was hardly anything acidic

to cut through the richness
of all the food.

So I kept spooning cranberry sauce
over everything.

That experience was a great lesson
in the importance of working acid

into every part of a meal.

[relaxed Mexican music playing]

[indistinct chatter]

LIMES $15.99/KILO
WILLING TO BARGAIN

[laughs] Excuse me.

[Regina] Yes. Further down.

How are you? Can we get one package?

The one that goes for $15.
For six kilograms of fish.

We're making tikin xic.

All right, thank you so much.
See you, Leo.

This is the recado section.

You can find a bunch of spices.

I think we're gonna do a mix
of the saladette and these.

Because we're putting it in
with the fish and banana leaves?

We do want these because these
have less water than these,

but the flavor of these,
and because these are in season,

-we can't just go past--
-Yeah. We have to get them.

Yeah, we have to get them.
I mean, they're just special,

because nobody else in the market
has this quality of tomatoes.

I think we will get a mix of both kinds,
so that we can have

tartness, sweetness, and a bit more juice.

That way the salsa turns out great.

-How much will it be?
-Thirty pesos.

-Thank you. Till next time.
-Thanks a lot!

So we're going to go meet Doña Chuli
right now.

-Doña Chuli.
-Yes.

She's one of the few people that have
like this really good chocolate.

The lady gets the cocoa
from here in Yucatán

and toasts it and then just grinds it
to do the cocoa powder.

[Samin] Chocolate is
an indigenous ingredient here.

-Yes.
-And what is it used for in the cuisine?

Because of its sour flavor,

you can do like savory foods
or can sweeten up to your taste,

or you can actually use it to, like,
make a sauce out of it.

This is a good chocolate.

You can see, like, her fingerprints on it.

-How much would that be?
-That's 25.

Twenty-five pesos.

Here you go. Thank you.

Thank you, ma'am.

All right, Mrs. Chuli, thank you so much.

[brakes screeching]

[Regina] So we do want
a nice julienne of the tomato.

And yeah, for the onions too.

We're gonna use two different types
of tomatoes.

-[Samin] This one's a little more acidic?
-Yes.

[Samin] Beautiful.

-You studied cooking in France, right?
-Yes.

[Samin] So was it a shock
to your system to go there

and see all the different traditions
in the kitchen?

Definitely, because here at home,
you cut it large or small.

There is not really a name
for each technique.

It's like, that's irrelevant, you know?

And when I went to cooking school,
it was like,

"No, this is too thick" or "too thin"
or "it should be longer" or "shorter."

So how do you reconcile the two
sort of forces in your life?

Well, I think that at the end of the day,

the French have created techniques
where everything has a real reason.

So it was really interesting
to understand,

like, "Oh, you should
cut the vegetables this way

because it'll have a better result."

But, I mean,
it doesn't make it better or worse.

And obviously, like,
when I see my mom cooking, it's not like,

"You're gonna go to kitchen hell
because you didn't cut it right."

[laughs]

Are we going to make the recado
for the fish?

Yes. So, we're gonna use a recado rojo,

which is made with
the annatto achiote seeds.

-It's really sour.
-Yes.

-What makes it sour?
-The seeds.

And when we marinate the fish with it,

it's gonna get this
really bright red color.

-I'm so excited.
-Okay.

We're gonna add some roasted garlic.

It has a sweet kick to it.

So when you mix it with
the bitter orange and achiote paste,

it'll just be perfect.

So try it now.

-Oh, wow, it's a lot less sour.
-Mm-hmm.

And now it's hitting all of these
different notes.

When you have an acid flavor,

you have like an explosion in your mouth,

but when you put salt,
it compensates the flavors

so you have enough, like, balance

to acknowledge each ingredient.

Would you want to mix and just add this?

-That's perfect.
-[Samin] Great.

Wow.

[Regina] This is robalo,
the cousin of the sea bass.

-[Samin] We're gonna char the vegetables?
-Yes.

It's really important to char them
a little bit

in order to intensify all the flavors.

[Samin] There's so many subtle
and wonderful ways

that you're building acid into this dish.

The achiote, to begin with.

The naranja agria in the recado.

These beautiful tomatoes,
which are such a great source of acid.

All of the charring that you're doing.

So let's just put the veggies on top.

It's all about the flavor,

so just make sure that in each bite,
we get--

[Samin] A little bit of each.

So these peppers,
I think they're pretty mild.

-This one doesn't smell too spicy.
-No.

We can try it.

Let's see.

Mine is a little bit.

[both laugh]

[Samin] This is so gorgeous.

I'm having a little heart attack
right now. [laughs]

-[Regina] You have to cover it.
-Okay.

[Regina] The banana leaves
give so much flavor.

It gives like this smokiness
and it's just so beautiful.

[Samin] I agree.

[birds chirping]

[Regina] Today we're gonna do
a twist on the pavlova,

which is one of my favorite desserts

because you can complement it
with any fruit in season.

So we're gonna be using
these very special meringues

and you can see they are
very perfect meringues.

They're so beautiful.

And I love it because
when you open it like that,

-you can see that it's super fluffy.
-Yeah.

I want one too.

-Hmm.
-But the shell of it is super crispy.

-Mm-hmm.
-Can you see?

[thudding]

-That's extraordinary.
-Yeah.

So we'll be adding some grapefruit,
some mandarin,

and we'll cut up some lemon.

[Samin] The pavlova
is such a brilliant dessert

for showcasing
all of these different acids.

'Cause the meringues are so sweet

that you need to put all of these
different tropical fruits on there

that are full of beautiful acidity

to balance that crazy marshmellowiness.

-Yes!
-Right?

[Samin] People think,
"Oh, an orange is an orange," right?

The recipe says one orange,

so I'm gonna put one orange or one lemon,

and then they never taste it again.

But the thing is,
even the same orange tomorrow

will taste different
because the sugars inside are changing.

And even in a citrus grove,

the fruit trees
on one and another end of the grove

will taste totally different.

The only way to know that it tastes right
is to taste it.

-[Regina] Definitely.
-Yeah. [laughs]

[birds tweeting, calling]

[Samin] Then you drizzle it
with sweetened cream?

[Regina] Mm-hmm. [chuckles]

[Samin] Gorgeous.

-Lime zest. Lima.
-Uh-hmm.

[scraping]

[Samin] Chocolate.

We'll just top it off with a little bit
of the melipona honey

since it's really, really like exotic
and expensive.

-It's really precious.
-Yeah.

This honey has, like,
a really citrus kick to it.

It really just ties everything together.

That acid gives us like the beautiful
bit of, like, tang

-that makes eating something so good.
-Yes.

[upbeat Mexican music playing]

[indistinct dialogue]

CELEBRATION

-[Regina, in Spanish] Cheers!
-[all] Cheers!

[Samin] To Grandma!

[laughter]

Thank you so much for having me.

[smacks]

Soup's here!

[laughter, applause]

If you want more lime, you can have more.

-Is it better now?
-Yes, of course!

[Samin laughs]

[cheering, applause]

[Samin] Wow. Oh, it's so beautiful.

Taste it first, because there are
serrano chilies in there.

[Regina's mom] Do you know
how to tell a person

that knows how to eat tacos and not?

-They used to say--
-[Samin] Teach me.

-You bow to the taco.
-[Samin] Oh, you bow to the taco!

-Okay, taco stays, my head bends.
-Exactly.

That's it.

It's so delicious, Regina.

[chatter, laughter]

-So if I eat them with the--
-Dessert!

My whole mouth. Yeah.

Oh, beautiful!

[woman] It's so good.

-[pop]
-Oh, that's--

-What?
-[laughter]