All language subtitles for (MAVIC MINI) APP Best Menu _ CAMERA SETTINGS - Drone Pro Academy

Okay, So right now

I'm going to go over the DJI menu system
for the Mavic Mini.

So first of all,
I need to open up the app,

which is the DJI,
which is the DJI Fly app.

And as you can see
here, we've kind of got a screen

and on this screen we've got all kinds
of different information.

Top left, you've got your mode,
which is your position mode, sport mode

or city smooth mode, which gives

you just super slow cinematic shots.

You've got your kind of warning
system there.

If there is a warning says takeoff
permitted, you've got your satellites,

you've
got your kind of connection quality.

That's what those bars mean right there.

You've got your battery percentage

and then you've
got your flight time as well.

On the bottom left, we've

got kind of a map here
so we can see where we're at.

You can blow that up if you want.

If you happen to lose it,
you can do Find my drone.

Make it. Do a beeping sound
so you can find it.

It's really cool.

Let's get back here really quick.

You've

got your height, your distance
and all that good stuff.

So now we're going to talk about

the camera settings and most importantly,
some of the behind the scenes settings

that are really important
to you to set up.

So we're going to tap the three buttons
on the top right of the screen,

and we're going to make sure
that we've got max altitude turned on

max distance
turned on auto return to Homeland.

Just put it higher than any of the trees
that usually fly around.

So maybe like 100 feet or so,
you can do pretty high if you want.

But I would not go
that high, make 100 feet or so.

Okay. So now we're going to go to control.

And here you can see the different modes.

We want to go to imperialism in the US
that I'm used to.

Now we're going to go to advance right
here on the right side next to Gimbal

and here we're going to set the pitch
speed to about seven

and the pitch smoothness to about 11.

Now what this does is it
makes you can move it up and down

and keep it fairly smooth

and you can experiment
with different kind of speeds

and different smooth settings

and kind of find
the one that that you want.

I might bring that up a little bit.

So about eight in the 17,
but you can just kind of experiment

and you want to use the little knob
on the left side of your controller

to practice your up and down for photos.

This is not a huge deal for video.

The sorts more, more of a deal.

And you want to make sure
this is really important.

You want to make sure and select
the allow upward gimbal rotation.

So as you can see,
this is as high as it goes.

When that's turned off.

And that's not good because we cannot
look up, look in the trees,

look up like a waterfall or something.

You lose a lot of range and capability.

So we want to make sure and turn this on.
Now, watch.

All of a sudden we can look up really high
and be able to see a lot more.

So that's absolutely crucial thing to turn
on and it's kind of hidden right there.

Gimmicks, vibration.

That's where you do that right there
now when you go to camera.

So for photos,

I would shoot in for three because that's
using more of the sensor size.

And 69 is actually cropping more of it,
as you can see on the bottom left there

a little bit, when I go to four three,
you actually see more of the ground.

So if I'm doing photos,
you want to do for three for sure

videos, I think it defaults to 16 nine.

Here's where you format your cards.

We got our advanced settings right here.

You want to turn on at least this one
right here, which turns on

some grids, and this helps

you kind of get your rule of thirds down.

And then there's also like a middle marker
if you want,

and you can do a big X on there.

It's kind of up to your preference.

And then the histogram,
we want to turn that on to kind of

get a good visual representation
of what we're seeing.

And then we're also going to run
the overexposure warning

and I'll show you
how that works in a little bit.

And then video subtitles.

I could turn that on and then we could do

cash burn recording
that basically saves a backup recording

to your iPhone
or whatever device you're using.

And then you've got a capacity of
how much is it going to save before

it deletes the old stuff.

So you can kind of see like that
depending on how,

you know, the size of the storage
on your phone,

you can kind of determine
how much you want to use on that.

Okay.

So now we can go back to the main menu
and above the record button on the right.

That white button
I'm going to tap on that square.

So we have photo video in quick shot.

So I'll go ahead and go to photo mode

and you can see that's pretty much it.

This is this is your your option.

You can take a single photo and take one.

You can do a time shot.

So you could potentially do
and you could do a manual time

lapse with this, actually.

So I'm going to go ahead and turn that on.

You'll see every 2 seconds

it's going to take a photo.

So this is when a manual time
lapse would actually work,

because you cannot do a time lapse
as of right now with the Mavic Mini.

So you could totally do that with that.

And then you can change the second.

So you definitely want to do 2 seconds
for that time mode for like a time lapse

and then for video mode,

you've got your frame rates
25 frames per second or 30.

If you shoot in 30,
then you can slow it down to 24 frames

per second post and it gives you a very
slight slow motion kind of cinematic feel.

So that's almost
what I'd recommend for most of your stuff

if you're planning on slowing it down.

If not, then 25 works
and then it shoots a 2.7 K or 1080p,

you can bring up the frame rate
up to 60 frames per second

and then slow it down to 24 frames,
which gives you some really good slo

mo capabilities at ten ADP.

Okay, So I'm going to show you
how to adjust the exposure.

And there's two ways
to do it on the Mavic Mini.

So the first thing way to do it
is we're going to tap the EV button

on the bottom, right?

So you can see
and you can adjust that up or down.

And this is going to is basically
V is a combined value of your F stop

and your shutter iso and you can adjusted
accordingly to where it looks good.

As you can see what I want to do,
what I want to blow out the highlight.

So that it turns into that zebra.

That means it's overexposed.

That means like that is white,
that's pure white.

So I'm just going to back it off a hair

and I'm going to call it good exposure.

I'm going to hit the button
with a lock on it.

Lock that guy. It's kind of hard to hit.

I hit that. Now that guy's locked.

So no matter where I fly
and if I look up or down,

then it's not going to change
any settings.

It's not going to change the color,
not going to change exposure.

Now, watch. If I unlock it, watch this.

I'm going to look down
and I'm going to unlock it.

All of a sudden, it just went
it just went went white.

Right.

So what's going to be changing around
as I go up,

you can see the exposure
automatically changing.

And that's not good
when you're shooting videos or,

you know, trying photos or whatever,
because it's going to be always changing.

The color is going to be changing
the white balance.

And that's not good.
That's not professional.

Having your image change in a shot.

So you want to lock that off
as much as possible.

So you're going to kind of
get your good exposure.

So I'm going to back it up again,
bring it up to like 1.3 or 0.3.

I'm going to lock it.
And now I'm good to go.

I can fly.

And I know that it's not going to change
in color or exposure while I'm flying.

And that's the automatic
kind of way to do it.

Now, the manual way
is you go down to the bottom, right

tap on the auto camera,
and when you hit that,

it's going to basically set everything
the manual settings.

And from here we can adjust our exposure
to whatever it needs to be for photos

like to be over 120 for video
around 50 is a good place to be.

Yeah, but yeah,
so it's pretty bright outside.

So what we're going to do is you want to
make sure to have ISO as low as possible.

If it's daylight, if it's nighttime,
that's

where you can start to kind of
keep it up a little bit more.

But you want to make sure and have
the shutter

is what you're going
to be using to make this happen.

So we're going to bring this down

till we have kind of good exposure.

And then now we don't have to worry about
locking anything or anything turning off.

It's going to be locked
at that proper exposure.

So that's how you do that.

Also,

one other thing,
you can see this histogram right here.

This is going to tell you
your exposure as well.

So if it's if there's
if it's kind of slammed the left,

that means the parts on the left
is the dark side.

The parts on the right is the light side.

So as you can see, where
we're not overexposed for sure

because we're not seeing anything.

As you can see,

when I go down to the ground there,
everything gets really quite dark.

Everything gets lower.

Then as I bring it up,
everything starts to get kind of higher.

And then I'll show you
what happens as I just the exposure here.

So as I crank it up,

you can see I'm probably still good there
cause I'm not maxing out.

I'm not quite clipping on my highlights.

So I'm probably pretty good
right there for exposure.

But you can use that in addition
to the zebras to see exactly

what is going on to set your exposure.

Yeah,
and that's kind of the basic menu system

and how to set your
exposure on the Mavic mini.