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So I have this clip of my friend Ben and I
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and let's say
I wanted to isolate us from the background
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so I can make specific adjustments
to us in the background separately.
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Well, what are some different ways
that we can do this?
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Well, maybe we can use the qualifier.
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We can select our subject here, shift
H to show us what our selection is
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and try to kind of
isolate our selection like this.
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And we can see that
this isn't really working that
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well because we're picking up
a lot of the same tones
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in the background
in these rocks in the driveway.
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So it's not really an option
unless we combine this with windows.
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So with windows,
we can isolate our region even more
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so that we're not picking up
much of the background as well.
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But then I'm going to have to make
a pretty specific window around me here.
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We have to add a bunch of points
and it's just going to
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it's just going to take a long time.
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That's not going to be the best way
to do this.
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And then, of course,
we have to track it afterwards.
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So this is why Magic Mask is so awesome.
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So I'm going to reset this node.
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Let's head over to the magic mask
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and let me just demonstrate
how amazing this is right off the bat.
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So with this plus eyedropper selected
right here, all I need to do
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is draw a little line or a stroke
on the subject that I'm trying to select.
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And right after you do that,
you'll see a red selection
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of what is DaVinci
thinks you're trying to select.
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Now, if you're not seeing this
red overlay,
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that's because this button
right here is not enabled.
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So make sure that toggle mask
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overlay is enabled
so that you can see that red overlay.
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Now we can see it didn't do an amazing job
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because the mask kind of extends out
past our actual subject here.
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But that's because
we have two different options here.
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We have faster and we have better.
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Now, the reason DaVinci gives us
these two options
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is because a lot of the time
in the world of color grading,
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you don't actually need that precise
of a mask to make the adjustments
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that you're trying to make,
especially if they're very minimal,
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like minor exposure changes
and things like that.
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So in a lot of situations,
especially within color grading,
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you can actually just stick
with the faster setting.
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But if you are looking to get
a more accurate and specific mask,
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then you'll want to switch over to better.
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So watch what happens with the overlay
when I switch to better.
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Just like that,
we have a much more refined mask.
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Things are looking really good.
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We can see that we're still cutting off
a bit of the ear here and the hair
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isn't perfect, but for the amount of time
that we put into this,
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it's done an amazing job
and that looks really good.
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Now notice how when I hover my mouse over
top of this joke here,
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it highlights it down here
in the timeline of the Magic mask.
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So this is very useful,
especially in situations
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where you're going to be
using more than one stroke
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so that you can identify what stroke it is
that you have your mouse over top of.
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And there are situations where you're
going to want to use more than one stroke,
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especially when you're just trying
to define certain features of a subject.
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You might be selecting multiple features
like all the exposed skin on a person.
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So maybe on their hands, maybe on their
face, their legs, things like that.
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So in situations like that,
you will have multiple strokes.
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So we basically use these strokes
to define what is our subject.
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And we can also use these other strokes,
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these subtractive strokes over here
if we select this tool here,
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we can use a red line to define
what is not a part of our subject.
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So in certain situations,
we might find that Da Vinci A.I.
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thinks that a part of the background
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is actually a part of your foreground,
and the overlay extends past the subject.
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So in those situations,
will want to use this subtractive tool
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to define
what we don't want within our selection.
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But in this case, it did a good job.
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So we're not actually going to have
to draw any of these subtractive lines.
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But take note how down here
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we can see each one of our strokes
individually in our timeline right here.
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And if we ever want to delete
any of these,
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we can just select it just like this
and hit backspace on the keyboard.
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Now, the mask that we've created
isn't actually track to our subject yet.
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If we scrub through
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our timeline over here, we can see that
we lose that overlay right away.
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And if we look in our timeline
down here in the Magic Mask panel,
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we can see this little blue mark
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and that just represents one frame
that actually has mask track data.
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So if we navigate back to that one frame
right here, we can use the buttons up
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above here to start tracking the mask
that we just created.
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So these are pretty much the same kind
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of tracking buttons that we find
in the tracker panel over here
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starting to the left.
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We have go to the first
frame of the tracked area.
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So if we have a range of this timeline
that's already been tracked,
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we can hit this to go to the first part
of that tracked area.
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Then we have track one frame backwards,
track backwards, pause the track
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track forwards and backwards,
track forwards, track one frame forwards
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and jump to the last
frame of the tracked area.
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Now, the reason we have these tools
is because a lot of the time
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when we are doing a track like this,
things can start going out of control.
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So in certain situations
we will want to pause the track halfway
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and this is the button
that we going to want to use.
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The spacebar doesn't actually work,
so keep that in mind.
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If you want to pause the track,
hit this pause button right here.
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If we want to track individual frames
forwards and backwards,
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we can use these buttons
right here, in here
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and in a lot of situations it can be
useful to just track one frame at a time,
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but in my experience, most of time
I just do track forwards and backwards.
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And if I do run into any hiccups,
I'm able to select a certain range here
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and delete it and modify it
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and I'll be showing you guys
how to do that in a second.
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So I'm going to hit this
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track forwards and backwards
button and let's see how well it does.
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So right
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away we
can see that it's starting to be unsure
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of whether or not my bag
should be part of the selection over here.
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So it's going in and out of the selection.
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Awesome.
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So it did a pretty good job.
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If I scrub through this,
I'm pretty happy with that outcome.
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I think it did a great job.
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This is something that would normally take
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a very long time to do,
but this took probably about a minute.
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So what can we do about my bag here?
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I don't want it going in
and out of the selection.
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Well, what we could do to fix
this is just to create another stroke.
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So I'm going to make sure
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that I have the adding stroke tool
selected here, not the subtractive one.
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And I'm just going to draw a line over
top of my bag here as well.
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And just like before, I'm
going to track forwards and backwards
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and then this should solve the problem.
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It looks like it's doing a pretty good job
there.
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Awesome.
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So that issue that we had before
is no longer there.
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We have a pretty solid mask
around our subject here.
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Now, one really cool option
that we have up here in
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the top right is invert our mask.
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So if we click this, it's
going to invert the mask.
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We're going to select everything except
the subject that we originally isolated.
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This is a great option to have because
in a lot of situations like this one,
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it would be hard to try to make
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a selection on everything else
except our subject here.
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It would be a lot easier to just select
the subject, invert the mask,
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and that way
we can get a selection on everything else.
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So this is just another way
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for us to make very specific selections
to any part of our image.
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And the bottom right here,
we have our Matt Finesse tools.
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And if you're not seeing this, it's
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because you haven't enabled this button
here in the top, right?
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So make sure that's enabled
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and you'll be able to see all of these
different options and essentially
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these are all different parameters
that we can change to refine our mask.
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So for example, in a lot of situations,
what I will do
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if I'm just trying to make color
grading changes to my selection,
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what I'll do is increase
the radius here under shrink.
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I'm going to make sure that the mode
is shrink and not grow that way.
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It's going to shrink the mask.
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So I'll shrink it a little bit like that
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so we can see that the mask doesn't extend
past our subject too much.
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And then from there,
I'll increase the blur radius.
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So maybe make this like something like 15
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so the edge isn't as sharp.
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You can see it's kind of blurry there.
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Maybe I'll bring this up
to like 25 actually blur even more.
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And now I'd be able
to make very controlled adjustments
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to just the subject
so I can go in to my curves here,
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start playing around with the exposure.
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And because we don't have that
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hard edge, you can't really tell
that there is a mask.
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So my computer is running
pretty slow right now, and that's
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because this is a very processor
intensive task.
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And that's why in a lot of situations,
especially like this one, it's okay
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to use the faster option, especially when
you're just going to contract your mask
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and then blur the edges to make
adjustments like what I'm doing here.
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That should do the trick.
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And a lot of the time you're not going
to need to use that better option.
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I'm just going to reset this curve here
and let's go back into the magic mask.
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So these are
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all different parameters
that allow us to refine our mask.
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So in a lot of situations,
if the blur radius and the radius aren't
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enough for you to get the desired result,
play around with these different options,
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experiment and see what looks best
for your specific situation.
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I'm just going to reset the radius here.
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I'm going to bring it back down to zero.
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Now, up here in the top right,
we have smart refine.
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And basically what this allows you to do
is refine the edge of your mask.
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But in a smart way.
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Basically, this option is still utilizing
Da Vinci's neural engine,
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the same one
that was used to actually make
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the initial selection
to determine what parts of our masks
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should be contracted
and expanded more than others.
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Personally, up until now, I haven't
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really gotten good results with this,
but I'm sure it varies from situations.
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The situation.
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But if you wanted to refine your mask
to contract it, make it smaller.
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Basically where you're going to do
is increase the value.
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So let's bring this up to 80
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click enter and we can see that
the mask contracted
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a little bit in certain areas
more than others.
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Now, in this case, why did it choose
to contract more in this area then?
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Maybe my hair, I'm not sure.
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But, you know, in this case,
that's not really helpful
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because I want to make sure that I have
a good selection around my neck here.
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And the same goes for expanding the mask.
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If we want to expand it, let's
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bring this value below 50
so we can bring it to like 30.
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You click enter
and we can see that it's expanded the mask
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in some areas more than others.
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So let's reset this.
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I could bring this back to 50 click enter.
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I'm just going to scale out here.
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So now that
I have a pretty accurate selection
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around my subject,
I can start to get creative.
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So maybe I can create a layer mixture
node over here.
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I can bring this mask to the top
by switching these inputs over here.
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Bring this one over here.
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So now I have the isolated subject
on top of the original clip here
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and what I can do is make some changes
to the background here.
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So let's say I wanted the background
to feel like crazy Sunset
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make it a lot more colorful, but without
affecting the subject in the foreground.
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So I can do that over here.
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Let's make it a lot pinker
by increasing the tense.
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That looks pretty good to me.
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And we can see that we've done that
without affecting me in the foreground.
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So we've isolated me.
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Now, of course, we can see that my hair,
the selection here isn't the best.
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We can see that
there's still spots around here
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that contain the original sky, but
we can actually fix that pretty easily.
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First thing I'm going to do
is actually just increase the blur radius
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on the original mask
here in the Magic Mask window.
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Probably bring this up to like 15
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and that kind of
just smooths out that edge.
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So now what I can do is just duplicate
this magic mask note over here
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by hitting option L,
and then I can just copy whatever's
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on this first node command. See,
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00:11:26,000 --> 00:11:28,000
pasted on this last note over here,
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00:11:28,000 --> 00:11:30,708
Command V,
231
00:11:30,708 --> 00:11:34,000
we have that same magic mask information
on this last one.
232
00:11:34,083 --> 00:11:37,541
And basically what I want to do is isolate
just the hair region
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00:11:37,541 --> 00:11:39,333
within this magic mask over here.
234
00:11:39,333 --> 00:11:43,375
So what I'll do is go to my Windows panel
and I'll grab the gradient
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00:11:43,375 --> 00:11:46,791
down here at the bottom
236
00:11:46,875 --> 00:11:50,583
shift H to show me my highlights.
237
00:11:50,666 --> 00:11:52,291
It's going to zoom out
238
00:11:52,291 --> 00:11:55,125
and basically what I want to do with this
gradient window is isolate
239
00:11:55,125 --> 00:11:59,916
just my head region over here,
because that's the part that's in the sky.
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00:12:00,000 --> 00:12:04,000
So I'm going to bring this up.
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00:12:04,041 --> 00:12:06,083
That looks pretty good to me for now.
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00:12:06,083 --> 00:12:11,041
Shift H to hide the selection.
243
00:12:11,125 --> 00:12:13,625
Now at this point,
what I want to do with this, no,
244
00:12:13,625 --> 00:12:16,041
down here at the bottom,
which is actually on top of everything
245
00:12:16,041 --> 00:12:19,791
else, is to change the colors
of just the remaining sky.
246
00:12:19,833 --> 00:12:21,583
So that's
probably going to be like my midtown.
247
00:12:21,583 --> 00:12:24,583
So I'll head over here to my primary log
wheels.
248
00:12:24,708 --> 00:12:26,041
I'll go over to mid tones.
249
00:12:26,041 --> 00:12:29,125
I'm going
to start playing around with the log wheel
250
00:12:29,125 --> 00:12:33,291
here, trying to make it a bit more pink
so that way it's not affecting
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00:12:33,291 --> 00:12:38,666
my hair, it's just affecting the brighter
parts of that selection.
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00:12:38,750 --> 00:12:45,666
And that way it'll allow us to kind
of blend in better into the background
253
00:12:45,750 --> 00:12:47,250
so the mid tones aren't doing too much.
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00:12:47,250 --> 00:12:50,916
Let's try highlights.
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00:12:51,000 --> 00:12:51,291
Cool.
256
00:12:51,291 --> 00:12:54,625
So by isolating the highlights
within our log wheels
257
00:12:54,625 --> 00:12:58,875
and making them more pink, we're able
to kind of blend that original sky
258
00:12:58,875 --> 00:13:03,125
into the new sky background
and that gives us a much better result.
259
00:13:03,208 --> 00:13:05,250
So I'm going to shift Z here. Now.
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00:13:05,250 --> 00:13:08,291
My computer is struggling right now
because we have to nodes
261
00:13:08,291 --> 00:13:12,125
both with the magic mask applied to them
and that is definitely very processor
262
00:13:12,125 --> 00:13:15,458
intensive, especially because I'm
also screen recording this lesson as well.
263
00:13:15,666 --> 00:13:16,625
So this is a great example
264
00:13:16,625 --> 00:13:20,250
of how we can use the magic mask
to isolate our subject from the background
265
00:13:20,416 --> 00:13:24,083
and make individual changes
to each element to get the exact look that
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00:13:24,083 --> 00:13:24,708
we're wanting.
24651
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