All language subtitles for Procolor_C10_L3c_Color_Con_Tech

Here are a couple

tips that I've picked up on split toning
and creating color contrast.

First of all, do it.

Toning with the long wheels or even with
the HDR wheels is a great way to do it.

There's nothing wrong with doing that.

But another way that I've seen
people do it well, just reset

this node is to use the custom curves.

I have this little expand button
to make these giant

so that we can see
what the heck's going on.

Remember, this is a graph
going from the darkest parts

of the image to the brightest parts.

And if we unlink these channels,

we can grab the graph from each channel

and we can adjust
how much or a little of each

color happens, at what tone in the image.

So I can tell by this histogram

the brightest parts of this image
are happening kind of right about here.

So maybe I'll just add a little control
point right there

and I'll push a little bit of red up
into the kind of those brighter tones.

Then we can switch to green.

I'll add a little control point
and I'll put a little bit of green

into the shadows and switch over to blue,

add another control point, and push
a little more blue into the shadows.

Something like that.

And this kind of curves setup

will give us that kind of split toning.

So I'll close this.

Here we are before.

And here we are after.

We have the cooler shadows
and the warmer highlights.

Now, these warmer
highlights are a little much,

so we can actually take the strength
down of each of these channels

here with these sliders.

And it's a little bit confusing
because if I want this to have no effect,

I can set this at 50.

If this

is less than
50, it's going to be a negative effect.

But anywhere between 50 and 100

is kind of
like the strength of that adjustment.

So maybe I'll push that up to like 66,
something like that.

And now we have a little bit of that

warmth being pushed into the highlights

and we're cooling down the shadows
a little.

Maybe just a little more green.

The shadows.

And that's a technique we can use as well.

Now, again, there's
nothing wrong with doing it this way

or doing it with the log wheels or the HDR
wheels.

It's just kind of dependent
on how much control you want,

how comfortable
you are with the interface.

I find myself kind of bouncing back
and forth between these, but honestly,

for most things

I like the simplicity of just putting
some warmth into the highlights,

some cool into the shadows,
and then adjusting the ranges

to affect the image.

How I'd like really up to you.