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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:02,280 --> 00:00:05,520 DRAMATIC ORCHESTRAL MUSIC PLAYS 2 00:00:40,720 --> 00:00:42,840 BIRDSONG 3 00:01:01,840 --> 00:01:04,480 CYMBALS CLASH 4 00:01:22,880 --> 00:01:25,120 SQUAWKING 5 00:01:32,120 --> 00:01:34,360 BIRD SCREECHES 6 00:01:44,080 --> 00:01:46,120 BIRDSONG 7 00:01:50,040 --> 00:01:52,080 BIRDSONG AND ANIMALS CROAKING 8 00:01:58,040 --> 00:02:00,440 CROAKING 9 00:02:14,680 --> 00:02:16,760 In the far north of England, 10 00:02:16,760 --> 00:02:19,840 in the eastern Lake District mountains, 11 00:02:19,840 --> 00:02:22,760 stands Helvellyn - a mighty mountain. 12 00:02:22,760 --> 00:02:26,320 Beautiful, romantic in all her ways. 13 00:02:27,480 --> 00:02:32,040 She's surrounded by buttresses, crags and screes that fall away. 14 00:02:32,040 --> 00:02:35,240 And she's one of the most-visited mountains that we have here. 15 00:02:35,240 --> 00:02:38,560 Thousands of people climb her slopes every year 16 00:02:38,560 --> 00:02:41,240 to admire the views in all directions. 17 00:02:41,240 --> 00:02:44,760 But below and beyond her, she's admired and cared for 18 00:02:44,760 --> 00:02:47,160 by a community of people. 19 00:02:47,160 --> 00:02:48,560 Wildlife is abundant - 20 00:02:48,560 --> 00:02:49,800 by the lakes, 21 00:02:49,800 --> 00:02:51,240 in the woods, 22 00:02:51,240 --> 00:02:53,560 and in the skies above us. 23 00:02:53,560 --> 00:02:55,400 This is truly a place 24 00:02:55,400 --> 00:02:58,720 where nature and man work together. 25 00:03:00,680 --> 00:03:03,520 WIND WHISTLES 26 00:03:34,080 --> 00:03:36,280 LAUGHTER 27 00:03:36,280 --> 00:03:39,680 The Lake District Ski Club was formed in 1936. 28 00:03:39,680 --> 00:03:44,240 That makes us very much a part of the history of skiing in the UK, 29 00:03:44,240 --> 00:03:46,480 and also of Lake District life. 30 00:03:46,480 --> 00:03:49,800 We're at the head of a remote valley, the Greenside Valley, 31 00:03:49,800 --> 00:03:53,040 which has been mined for lead for hundreds of years. 32 00:03:53,040 --> 00:03:56,800 And, as a result, a lot of people don't even know we're there. 33 00:03:56,800 --> 00:04:01,480 We're not like a ski club resort because of the remoteness. 34 00:04:01,480 --> 00:04:05,880 The conditions can be very tricky, very challenging - it can be icy, 35 00:04:05,880 --> 00:04:09,080 the mist can come down, you can get white-out blizzards. 36 00:04:09,080 --> 00:04:11,560 So you do need to know what you're doing on a mountain 37 00:04:11,560 --> 00:04:14,520 and be properly prepared and equipped 38 00:04:14,520 --> 00:04:16,720 for a fairly wild environment. 39 00:04:17,760 --> 00:04:22,080 The thing about our tow there - it's only a short tow, 360 metres - 40 00:04:22,080 --> 00:04:25,360 but it does give access to a wide variety of terrain. 41 00:04:25,360 --> 00:04:28,000 You have the opportunity when the snow is good - 42 00:04:28,000 --> 00:04:31,760 not like today, unfortunately - to ski right back down to the car park, 43 00:04:31,760 --> 00:04:35,320 which is a big descent in some fairly wild terrain. 44 00:04:35,320 --> 00:04:38,440 So you can see behind me, you have Catstye Cam - people have skied 45 00:04:38,440 --> 00:04:43,600 down that gully there and indeed down the Red Tarn face of Helvellyn. 46 00:04:43,600 --> 00:04:46,680 And that's really not something for the faint-hearted. 47 00:05:22,760 --> 00:05:26,280 SCRAPING OF SKIS 48 00:05:29,120 --> 00:05:30,160 Whoo! 49 00:05:46,880 --> 00:05:50,240 So the mountains are about half a billion years old. 50 00:05:50,240 --> 00:05:52,520 They were formed at the edge of a collision 51 00:05:52,520 --> 00:05:54,720 between two major plates. 52 00:05:54,720 --> 00:05:57,280 But what's happened to actually create the distinctive shape 53 00:05:57,280 --> 00:05:59,240 of the Lake District with these radial wheels, 54 00:05:59,240 --> 00:06:01,880 these spokes of the major valleys coming out, is that the whole 55 00:06:01,880 --> 00:06:05,240 of the mountain range was domed upwards by the intrusion of a big 56 00:06:05,240 --> 00:06:08,400 lump of granite beneath the whole of the Lake District, possibly 57 00:06:08,400 --> 00:06:12,360 pushing the whole of the region up by about 3,000 metres elevation. 58 00:06:12,360 --> 00:06:15,280 And then as you dome up that surface just like a cake - as it sort of 59 00:06:15,280 --> 00:06:18,480 expands as it gets baked - you start seeing the cracks that come out 60 00:06:18,480 --> 00:06:20,200 radially through that cake surface. 61 00:06:20,200 --> 00:06:22,400 And that's what creates these amazing valleys 62 00:06:22,400 --> 00:06:25,560 that have then been sculpted initially by rivers and streams 63 00:06:25,560 --> 00:06:27,560 and then, more recently, by the large glaciers 64 00:06:27,560 --> 00:06:31,000 that would have formed here over the last two million years or so. 65 00:06:31,000 --> 00:06:33,520 But, of course, one of the ironies about this landscape 66 00:06:33,520 --> 00:06:35,640 that we're seeing today is that this isn't how 67 00:06:35,640 --> 00:06:37,120 the Lake District should look. 68 00:06:37,120 --> 00:06:39,680 The vegetation's completely different because of grazing, 69 00:06:39,680 --> 00:06:44,560 but also the deep impact of human-driven climate change 70 00:06:44,560 --> 00:06:46,960 has changed the way that this landscape has evolved. 71 00:06:46,960 --> 00:06:50,120 We should be seeing glaciers sitting within these valleys now. 72 00:06:50,120 --> 00:06:52,520 They should have started forming a few thousand years ago, 73 00:06:52,520 --> 00:06:55,320 but they haven't because of our role. 74 00:06:55,320 --> 00:06:58,280 And it's likely that we're not going to see that for many 75 00:06:58,280 --> 00:07:01,240 tens of thousands of years. This place will become glaciated again - 76 00:07:01,240 --> 00:07:03,480 it's inevitable that it will happen. 77 00:07:03,480 --> 00:07:06,360 But for us, we've got to enjoy this landscape, because look at it - 78 00:07:06,360 --> 00:07:07,680 it is just stunning. 79 00:07:07,680 --> 00:07:10,480 You look at Helvellyn up there, covered in snow. 80 00:07:10,480 --> 00:07:13,000 This is what mountains look like when we've been children. 81 00:07:13,000 --> 00:07:16,000 This is what we want them to look like for the next hundred years 82 00:07:16,000 --> 00:07:17,600 or so - certainly in my lifetime. 83 00:08:21,880 --> 00:08:24,040 We're in a very fortunate position 84 00:08:24,040 --> 00:08:26,520 of being able to walk up a mountain 85 00:08:26,520 --> 00:08:31,280 and not have to walk down, thanks to the beauty of these paragliders. 86 00:08:31,280 --> 00:08:34,800 The simplest form of flight, really - man's oldest dream. 87 00:08:34,800 --> 00:08:39,000 So for me, personally, this is now nearly 30 years to the day 88 00:08:39,000 --> 00:08:42,000 when I first flew off this mountain, when I was 19 years old, 89 00:08:42,000 --> 00:08:43,920 when I first learnt to fly. 90 00:08:43,920 --> 00:08:46,680 I've now taught this sport for the last 30 years. 91 00:08:46,680 --> 00:08:48,280 Many people are always saying, 92 00:08:48,280 --> 00:08:50,680 "You must be nuts, chucking yourself off here." 93 00:08:50,680 --> 00:08:53,200 It's a very safe sport to do. The knowledge is in being 94 00:08:53,200 --> 00:08:56,880 smart about the weather, understanding the weather. 95 00:08:56,880 --> 00:09:00,280 And here we are now about to jump off over this beautiful Helvellyn 96 00:09:00,280 --> 00:09:03,600 vista, to harness the power of the elements and to carry 97 00:09:03,600 --> 00:09:05,600 us down into the valley 98 00:09:05,600 --> 00:09:08,920 and hopefully land right next to the pub, if all goes well. 99 00:09:08,920 --> 00:09:10,840 SERENE MUSIC 100 00:09:42,720 --> 00:09:43,960 Good! 101 00:09:52,560 --> 00:09:54,440 WIND WHISTLES 102 00:10:14,760 --> 00:10:16,480 RAVENS CAW 103 00:10:28,560 --> 00:10:31,600 Working as a fell-top assessor, it's very much focusing on mountain 104 00:10:31,600 --> 00:10:34,480 safety, it just takes place in a slightly different environment. 105 00:10:35,600 --> 00:10:39,240 We're recording the weather conditions, we're taking photos, 106 00:10:39,240 --> 00:10:42,160 we're blogging about it, trying to give people good information 107 00:10:42,160 --> 00:10:45,000 so they can go up here and make the decisions themselves. 108 00:10:45,000 --> 00:10:49,360 Er, we're getting a couple of big gusts hammering down the mountain, 109 00:10:49,360 --> 00:10:51,880 big downdrafts hitting Red Tarn below us, 110 00:10:51,880 --> 00:10:54,520 but not as bad as I thought it was going to be. 111 00:10:55,520 --> 00:11:00,480 We've had a lot of rain, a lot of snow, a lot of big high winds 112 00:11:00,480 --> 00:11:02,320 in the last few days. 113 00:11:02,320 --> 00:11:05,400 And then, looking into the bowl, there's a lot of avalanche activity. 114 00:11:05,400 --> 00:11:09,120 Multiple avalanche tracks have come down, lots of different areas. 115 00:11:10,960 --> 00:11:13,760 I've had quite a wide-ranging outdoor career, 116 00:11:13,760 --> 00:11:15,600 all around the world, really. 117 00:11:15,600 --> 00:11:19,120 I've been privileged to guide on the big peaks - 8,000m peaks. 118 00:11:19,120 --> 00:11:22,320 I spent a lot of time in Antarctica looking after clients down there 119 00:11:22,320 --> 00:11:24,000 climbing things like Mount Vinson, 120 00:11:24,000 --> 00:11:25,600 skiing to the South Pole. 121 00:11:25,600 --> 00:11:29,840 Get that hand over the bottom spike there... 122 00:11:29,840 --> 00:11:31,280 All the conditions have come good. 123 00:11:31,280 --> 00:11:34,080 And I've got three guests with me doing their sort of introductory 124 00:11:34,080 --> 00:11:36,920 winter skills day out with a fell-top assessor, 125 00:11:36,920 --> 00:11:38,360 seeing what we do, 126 00:11:38,360 --> 00:11:41,760 but also learning how to operate themselves in this environment. 127 00:11:41,760 --> 00:11:46,160 So the focus is very much on them making their own decisions, 128 00:11:46,160 --> 00:11:50,520 and being able to use crampons, use ice axes to keep themselves safe 129 00:11:50,520 --> 00:11:52,880 and make their own decisions. 130 00:11:56,160 --> 00:11:58,880 So there's three parts to our fell-top assessor role, really. 131 00:11:58,880 --> 00:12:02,880 One, being visible, being a ranger out on the hill, able to chat 132 00:12:02,880 --> 00:12:06,480 to people and steer them and offer advice and encouragement - 133 00:12:06,480 --> 00:12:08,400 the winter skills side. 134 00:12:08,400 --> 00:12:11,240 And then sort of the original role, I guess, 135 00:12:11,240 --> 00:12:14,120 if you like, is to come up here and take some observations. 136 00:12:14,120 --> 00:12:18,160 So we look at wind speed, maximum wind speed, temperature, 137 00:12:18,160 --> 00:12:20,080 absolute temperature, the wind chill, 138 00:12:20,080 --> 00:12:22,200 what that will do, the wind direction. 139 00:12:22,200 --> 00:12:25,160 And they all get fed back to the Met Office 140 00:12:25,160 --> 00:12:27,040 to sort of validate their models. 141 00:12:27,040 --> 00:12:29,040 And then we have our own sort of weather line. 142 00:12:29,040 --> 00:12:33,000 We put all our reports on there on the internet with photos 143 00:12:33,000 --> 00:12:36,600 of the conditions we've experienced that day. And that goes alongside 144 00:12:36,600 --> 00:12:39,240 the Met Office specialist mountain forecast. 145 00:12:39,240 --> 00:12:41,440 So, hopefully, people have got a really good idea 146 00:12:41,440 --> 00:12:43,480 about the environment they're coming into. 147 00:12:43,480 --> 00:12:45,680 WIND HOWLS 148 00:12:45,680 --> 00:12:47,360 Just in time for a gust. 149 00:12:47,360 --> 00:12:50,680 So it's about 35mph winds at the moment. 150 00:12:50,680 --> 00:12:52,720 It's about right. 151 00:12:52,720 --> 00:12:55,200 It's just...just buffeting me around a little bit. 152 00:12:56,480 --> 00:13:00,080 It's not pushing me towards the edge, which I'm very aware of. 153 00:13:01,600 --> 00:13:04,680 We'll just take a reading for a couple of minutes, just gives us 154 00:13:04,680 --> 00:13:07,640 a snapshot of what the weather's doing up here around midday. 155 00:13:10,720 --> 00:13:14,080 Temperature-wise, down to minus seven. 156 00:13:15,320 --> 00:13:18,200 You'd get very cold very quickly if you had a problem, 157 00:13:18,200 --> 00:13:20,400 and were forced to sit out in this. 158 00:13:20,400 --> 00:13:22,680 And the only other thing I need to do 159 00:13:22,680 --> 00:13:25,000 is check the direction of the wind. 160 00:13:26,520 --> 00:13:28,800 Everything's a faff in winter, 161 00:13:28,800 --> 00:13:31,360 with your gloves on and the wind blowing. 162 00:13:31,360 --> 00:13:35,000 I'll do it the pleasant way - wind behind me. 163 00:13:38,080 --> 00:13:41,680 Yeah, we've got a west-south-west, which is what was forecast. 164 00:13:45,440 --> 00:13:48,000 But it's driving through some big showers and things. 165 00:13:48,000 --> 00:13:50,920 But we've got a bit of sunshine at the moment. 166 00:13:53,080 --> 00:13:55,720 People always say, "Do you get bored going up the same mountain?" 167 00:13:55,720 --> 00:13:57,080 But it's never the same. 168 00:13:57,080 --> 00:13:58,760 So I've had everything from crawling 169 00:13:58,760 --> 00:14:02,000 to the summit in sort of 70, 80mph winds to... 170 00:14:02,000 --> 00:14:05,360 ..yeah, sort of trotting around in my T-shirt 171 00:14:05,360 --> 00:14:08,120 on nice, hard, packed-up, icy snow. 172 00:14:08,120 --> 00:14:10,280 So, yeah, we see everybody up there - 173 00:14:10,280 --> 00:14:12,720 the well-equipped, the ill-equipped, 174 00:14:12,720 --> 00:14:14,320 people with eyes out on stalks. 175 00:14:14,320 --> 00:14:17,960 Striding and Swirral Edge is one of the classic mountaineering rounds 176 00:14:17,960 --> 00:14:19,360 across the country, really. 177 00:14:19,360 --> 00:14:21,960 And I never get bored of that circuit. 178 00:14:25,040 --> 00:14:28,800 I have been coming to the Lakes for about ten or 12 years, 179 00:14:28,800 --> 00:14:31,280 and at first it was just like, 180 00:14:31,280 --> 00:14:34,800 what I guess normal people did - just walked. 181 00:14:34,800 --> 00:14:36,880 Then I really got into wild camping. 182 00:14:36,880 --> 00:14:40,720 I did my first solo wild camp, and I just saw everything 183 00:14:40,720 --> 00:14:42,640 in a completely new way. 184 00:14:42,640 --> 00:14:47,040 It's the most pure sense of freedom that you can get. 185 00:14:47,040 --> 00:14:50,640 And you see the wildlife, you know - the wildlife that comes out 186 00:14:50,640 --> 00:14:53,760 is less afraid of you because you almost go one step further - 187 00:14:53,760 --> 00:14:56,160 you're no longer just in the landscape, 188 00:14:56,160 --> 00:14:57,560 you're actually part of it. 189 00:14:57,560 --> 00:14:59,720 You always need to be considerate of where you pitch - 190 00:14:59,720 --> 00:15:01,720 well away from roads and people's houses. 191 00:15:01,720 --> 00:15:05,400 There is a wild campers' etiquette, which is arrive late, leave early, 192 00:15:05,400 --> 00:15:09,200 take out all your rubbish with you. Go to the toilet responsibly. 193 00:15:09,200 --> 00:15:10,800 Don't light a campfire. 194 00:15:10,800 --> 00:15:15,240 And above all, I have a rule where I say leave a place in a better 195 00:15:15,240 --> 00:15:18,120 state than when you found it, because if I see someone else's 196 00:15:18,120 --> 00:15:20,960 rubbish, I'll pick that up, too, because I think if we all did that, 197 00:15:20,960 --> 00:15:23,440 imagine what an amazing place the fells would be! 198 00:15:23,440 --> 00:15:25,800 RAIN PATTERS 199 00:15:25,800 --> 00:15:28,120 Well, they said it was going to snow. 200 00:15:28,120 --> 00:15:30,160 It's actually raining and my tent's 201 00:15:30,160 --> 00:15:32,360 just flapping around and I'm wet. 202 00:15:32,360 --> 00:15:34,600 But it's so nice to be inside. 203 00:15:35,960 --> 00:15:39,800 I think some people might think I'm mad to come out when the forecast 204 00:15:39,800 --> 00:15:41,480 is like that. 205 00:15:41,480 --> 00:15:44,560 But it's the best time, because there's no-one else here. 206 00:15:44,560 --> 00:15:46,960 So I get the fells all to myself. 207 00:15:49,040 --> 00:15:50,880 RAIN PATTERS ON TENT 208 00:15:50,880 --> 00:15:53,560 There's something lovely about hearing that. 209 00:15:53,560 --> 00:15:55,600 And being in here. 210 00:15:57,760 --> 00:16:01,400 A lot of people ask me how safe it is to go wild camping in the fells. 211 00:16:01,400 --> 00:16:04,480 And I always say it's about having the right equipment with you. 212 00:16:04,480 --> 00:16:08,120 So, you know, a good tent, a good sleeping bag, a good sleeping mat. 213 00:16:08,120 --> 00:16:11,320 Have warm food, hot drinks - more drinks than you think 214 00:16:11,320 --> 00:16:13,640 you'll need - something to be able to collect water. 215 00:16:13,640 --> 00:16:16,720 And then I think the other thing which actually weighs nothing 216 00:16:16,720 --> 00:16:18,960 is knowledge and experience. 217 00:16:20,320 --> 00:16:23,360 Weather conditions - as well as camping restrictions - can change, 218 00:16:23,360 --> 00:16:26,400 so checking locally for guidelines is advisable. 219 00:16:26,400 --> 00:16:28,280 You never stop learning in the fells - 220 00:16:28,280 --> 00:16:31,000 it's the ultimate place to teach you anything. 221 00:16:31,000 --> 00:16:33,160 And you learn a lot about yourself, as well. 222 00:16:40,120 --> 00:16:43,400 So the wind is blowing my tent around quite a bit. 223 00:16:43,400 --> 00:16:47,360 I've been having it really pushed close to my nose. 224 00:16:47,360 --> 00:16:52,200 Some people feel exposed or unsafe in the dark, but I feel... 225 00:16:52,200 --> 00:16:54,080 ..almost protected by it. 226 00:16:54,080 --> 00:16:56,440 And I like to go wild camping on my own. 227 00:16:56,440 --> 00:17:00,880 And there are people who think that maybe means I'm antisocial, 228 00:17:00,880 --> 00:17:05,440 but it's not that. It's... There's just something in me that clicks 229 00:17:05,440 --> 00:17:08,080 when I'm in the mountains and everything that I'm worried 230 00:17:08,080 --> 00:17:12,600 about or stressed about or thinking about even, just kind of gets 231 00:17:12,600 --> 00:17:15,440 shifted completely into perspective. 232 00:17:15,440 --> 00:17:17,320 So it's like... 233 00:17:17,320 --> 00:17:23,080 ..I'm disconnecting from my busy normal life, but I'm actually truly 234 00:17:23,080 --> 00:17:28,120 reconnecting with everything that actually is really important. 235 00:17:31,240 --> 00:17:34,080 Well, it's really windy out here. SHE LAUGHS 236 00:17:34,080 --> 00:17:38,640 But, erm... It's windy and cold, but it's certainly worth it. 237 00:17:38,640 --> 00:17:41,480 The stars are just incredible. 238 00:17:41,480 --> 00:17:44,840 And to just know that there's just no-one else around for miles. 239 00:17:44,840 --> 00:17:46,880 You know, Helvellyn's this way, 240 00:17:46,880 --> 00:17:49,640 we've got some of the villages behind me but... 241 00:17:49,640 --> 00:17:51,240 ..it's just me and the stars, 242 00:17:51,240 --> 00:17:54,160 and there's something really quite magical about that. 243 00:18:48,240 --> 00:18:51,080 I'm fortunate enough to live and work locally to the area, 244 00:18:51,080 --> 00:18:53,760 and Helvellyn happens to be one of my favourite mountains. 245 00:18:53,760 --> 00:18:57,200 I've spent a huge amount of time up there, whether it's surveying, 246 00:18:57,200 --> 00:19:00,600 mountain biking, walking, climbing - it all happens up there. 247 00:19:00,600 --> 00:19:02,520 It's a fantastic mountain. 248 00:19:02,520 --> 00:19:06,120 The Ordnance Survey was originally set up in 1791 249 00:19:06,120 --> 00:19:09,760 to map part of Scotland for the Jacobite rising when the Scots 250 00:19:09,760 --> 00:19:11,800 were approaching on England. 251 00:19:11,800 --> 00:19:15,840 The OS historically has had some quite hard challenges to overcome 252 00:19:15,840 --> 00:19:19,280 in mapping the UK, and especially areas like the Lake District 253 00:19:19,280 --> 00:19:21,240 and in particular Helvellyn. 254 00:19:21,240 --> 00:19:24,680 Now back in the day, they had to create trig pillars. 255 00:19:24,680 --> 00:19:27,480 Now, from this triangulation, they could start drawing up maps 256 00:19:27,480 --> 00:19:31,800 of the UK and continue mapping any new features that started. 257 00:19:31,800 --> 00:19:35,640 Now, due to the fact that each trig needed to be seen from another trig 258 00:19:35,640 --> 00:19:39,360 point, it involved good weather to be able to do that. 259 00:19:39,360 --> 00:19:45,360 Now, that might be the reason why it took 26 years, up until 1961, 260 00:19:45,360 --> 00:19:48,800 to finally finish up the trig pillar network. 261 00:19:48,800 --> 00:19:51,920 Now the trig on the top of Helvellyn behind me isn't 262 00:19:51,920 --> 00:19:54,880 actually on the summit - it's just off to the side. 263 00:19:54,880 --> 00:19:58,400 Now that may be because they needed to get a line of sight 264 00:19:58,400 --> 00:20:02,640 through to another trig. And the trig on Helvellyn is very memorable 265 00:20:02,640 --> 00:20:04,520 for a lot of people around the UK. 266 00:20:04,520 --> 00:20:07,680 It's probably featured in thousands of group photographs, 267 00:20:07,680 --> 00:20:10,200 thousands of individual photographs, 268 00:20:10,200 --> 00:20:13,400 and people see it as a real focal point of their walk. 269 00:20:13,400 --> 00:20:15,720 As they see it looming through the mist, as they come 270 00:20:15,720 --> 00:20:18,600 up by the Swirral or Striding Edge, they realise they're reaching 271 00:20:18,600 --> 00:20:21,960 the final point of their outing for the day. 272 00:20:21,960 --> 00:20:23,960 On the top of the old trig pillars, 273 00:20:23,960 --> 00:20:26,880 you might often see a bracket placed into the top. 274 00:20:26,880 --> 00:20:28,840 Now this is where, back in 1936, 275 00:20:28,840 --> 00:20:32,320 many of the OS surveyors used to screw in their theodolite 276 00:20:32,320 --> 00:20:35,120 that started the original triangulation of the UK. 277 00:20:35,120 --> 00:20:38,720 You may often also find an OS benchmark plate found further 278 00:20:38,720 --> 00:20:40,880 down on the trig points around the country. 279 00:20:40,880 --> 00:20:42,200 Now these were used as 280 00:20:42,200 --> 00:20:44,880 levelling points to level to, back in the day. 281 00:20:44,880 --> 00:20:46,720 The technology we're using today is 282 00:20:46,720 --> 00:20:49,600 an absolute world apart from what was used back in 1936. 283 00:20:49,600 --> 00:20:52,760 So currently we're just checking a couple of levels 284 00:20:52,760 --> 00:20:54,320 with my GNSS receiver. 285 00:20:54,320 --> 00:20:57,840 Now this is giving me an accuracy of about one to two centimetres. 286 00:20:57,840 --> 00:21:00,520 Now, I could just check the levels from our data 287 00:21:00,520 --> 00:21:03,520 from the past and update it with any further levels 288 00:21:03,520 --> 00:21:05,400 I'm picking up today. 289 00:21:05,400 --> 00:21:09,680 Now, with this kit, the OS makes around 20,000 changes every day 290 00:21:09,680 --> 00:21:13,000 to our master map of Great Britain. 291 00:21:13,000 --> 00:21:16,120 A lot of our data can also be used to create 3D models, and that's 292 00:21:16,120 --> 00:21:19,840 really helpful for people to get a better understanding of the area, 293 00:21:19,840 --> 00:21:22,680 especially in places like Helvellyn. 294 00:21:23,760 --> 00:21:26,360 Helvellyn's a really memorable mountain for me, it actually 295 00:21:26,360 --> 00:21:28,920 helped me get my degrees, it's where I did my dissertation 296 00:21:28,920 --> 00:21:31,560 and it's also one of the first mountains that my dad took me 297 00:21:31,560 --> 00:21:34,080 up as a kid. So it really has a special place in my heart. 298 00:22:01,960 --> 00:22:04,280 Welcome to spring in Cumbria. 299 00:22:06,560 --> 00:22:09,520 Silliest thing is I brought the sun cream today. 300 00:22:11,720 --> 00:22:13,600 Here we go. 301 00:22:14,880 --> 00:22:16,560 It's officially spring. 302 00:22:18,640 --> 00:22:21,040 This is what I came for. 303 00:22:21,040 --> 00:22:23,320 Purple saxifrage. 304 00:22:23,320 --> 00:22:26,480 And once you see it, you see it here, 305 00:22:26,480 --> 00:22:28,680 there, there. 306 00:22:28,680 --> 00:22:31,600 You're in a part of the mountain no-one comes to. 307 00:22:31,600 --> 00:22:34,640 For me at least, I think flowers - or wildlife in general - 308 00:22:34,640 --> 00:22:36,520 is a personal thing. 309 00:22:36,520 --> 00:22:40,600 These flowers, to me, are determination, resilience, 310 00:22:40,600 --> 00:22:43,320 coping, making do. 311 00:22:43,320 --> 00:22:46,360 And I love to aspire to feel that way. 312 00:22:46,360 --> 00:22:50,240 You should be able to find at least a dozen plants up here soon. 313 00:22:50,240 --> 00:22:52,760 But purple saxifrage is the first and, for me, 314 00:22:52,760 --> 00:22:54,800 it's always going to be the best. 315 00:22:54,800 --> 00:22:57,440 It's coping with the worst. 316 00:22:57,440 --> 00:23:01,000 It's the best-looking thing up here - myself included. 317 00:23:01,000 --> 00:23:02,720 Fantastic little flower. 318 00:23:03,760 --> 00:23:06,600 I think the key for me with mountain flowers is these are places people 319 00:23:06,600 --> 00:23:08,960 know, but they're not places they necessarily know a lot 320 00:23:08,960 --> 00:23:11,200 about - they certainly don't know everything about. 321 00:23:11,200 --> 00:23:13,920 So looking for the smaller detail, looking for the fine detail 322 00:23:13,920 --> 00:23:15,800 of an area, that's what we're looking for, 323 00:23:15,800 --> 00:23:18,600 because these are indicators of what's special about this place. 324 00:23:18,600 --> 00:23:21,160 But in terms of the mountain flora of Lakeland, 325 00:23:21,160 --> 00:23:24,680 I can start in spring just as the snow is melting. 326 00:23:24,680 --> 00:23:27,240 Helvellyn is a fantastic place for that. Come the summertime 327 00:23:27,240 --> 00:23:30,040 you're more likely to find me somewhere around Kirkstone Pass and 328 00:23:30,040 --> 00:23:33,920 Red Screes. Also around down towards Honister. 329 00:23:33,920 --> 00:23:37,040 These are real hot spots for these incredibly rare plants. 330 00:23:37,040 --> 00:23:39,400 I think, for me, it's the fact that whoever I bring up here - 331 00:23:39,400 --> 00:23:41,600 whether they're the national experts in their field - 332 00:23:41,600 --> 00:23:43,760 they look at these things and they've never seen them 333 00:23:43,760 --> 00:23:46,440 here before and they're amazed to find out that they're here. 334 00:23:46,440 --> 00:23:49,040 And it may be something they've been looking for for years, 335 00:23:49,040 --> 00:23:51,080 or it maybe something they've never heard of. 336 00:23:51,080 --> 00:23:53,200 And that's the future of conservation. 337 00:23:53,200 --> 00:23:56,040 I still think we're suffering loss, we're suffering conflict 338 00:23:56,040 --> 00:23:57,760 because we're still finding our way. 339 00:23:57,760 --> 00:24:00,320 We succeed by learning from mistakes. 340 00:24:00,320 --> 00:24:01,600 It's OK to make the mistakes - 341 00:24:01,600 --> 00:24:04,360 it's what you do after that really, really counts. 342 00:24:04,360 --> 00:24:07,400 And that's where I think the National Park is now. Around here, 343 00:24:07,400 --> 00:24:10,280 they've got to look at what we're going to do for the next 50 344 00:24:10,280 --> 00:24:13,520 years because the rest of it isn't going to matter. 345 00:24:13,520 --> 00:24:16,720 It's the future that really, really matters. 346 00:24:28,480 --> 00:24:29,960 BIRD SCREECHES 347 00:24:42,280 --> 00:24:44,400 SQUAWKING 348 00:24:48,560 --> 00:24:50,680 SHEEP BLEAT 349 00:24:50,680 --> 00:24:52,440 BIRDS TWEET 350 00:24:54,520 --> 00:24:56,760 BLEATING 351 00:24:57,800 --> 00:25:02,080 So my family's been on this farm since the '70s, 352 00:25:02,080 --> 00:25:05,000 when my grandad bought the farm. 353 00:25:05,000 --> 00:25:08,200 He was farming in west Cumbria before moving here. 354 00:25:08,200 --> 00:25:09,560 He retired. 355 00:25:09,560 --> 00:25:13,040 None of my parents' generation wanted to take on farming 356 00:25:13,040 --> 00:25:17,440 because they were really encouraged not to, because there wasn't... 357 00:25:17,440 --> 00:25:19,440 ..we were told no real money in it. 358 00:25:19,440 --> 00:25:24,480 So we're aiming to get as much biodiversity as we can on the farm. 359 00:25:24,480 --> 00:25:29,960 One of the real goals that we were looking to get was for our cows 360 00:25:29,960 --> 00:25:34,400 to be pasture-fed, which were pasture-fed certified. 361 00:25:34,400 --> 00:25:40,120 And that means that our cows purely eat grass and pasture or things 362 00:25:40,120 --> 00:25:44,560 that we grow on the farm ourselves that are non-human edible. 363 00:25:44,560 --> 00:25:47,960 It's definitely not easy, what we're doing. 364 00:25:47,960 --> 00:25:49,520 Erm... 365 00:25:49,520 --> 00:25:52,320 One of the main reasons is because what we're doing 366 00:25:52,320 --> 00:25:55,640 is relatively unpractised in the Lake District. 367 00:25:55,640 --> 00:25:58,400 There are other farmers who are doing it and we've got 368 00:25:58,400 --> 00:25:59,840 a young daughter, as well. 369 00:25:59,840 --> 00:26:04,400 So it's juggling that whole lifestyle of keeping the family 370 00:26:04,400 --> 00:26:09,360 going and keeping the farm going and keeping our animals 371 00:26:09,360 --> 00:26:11,840 going as well as we can, as well. 372 00:26:11,840 --> 00:26:15,600 So one of the issues we found with our sheep enterprise 373 00:26:15,600 --> 00:26:19,600 was, firstly, around the economic side of things. 374 00:26:19,600 --> 00:26:25,680 In a year of farming sheep under a set stocked system, we made 375 00:26:25,680 --> 00:26:30,240 around ยฃ600 profit from the sheep enterprise alone. 376 00:26:30,240 --> 00:26:34,560 So it didn't really contribute much to the overall running of the farm. 377 00:26:34,560 --> 00:26:37,800 That meant that we... When we were looking at that enterprise, 378 00:26:37,800 --> 00:26:40,520 we decided, you know, we didn't really need to focus on that. 379 00:26:40,520 --> 00:26:44,320 And we thought the cattle had more opportunity. 380 00:26:46,080 --> 00:26:49,280 With the cattle, we can let the grass grow a lot longer, 381 00:26:49,280 --> 00:26:53,640 which is much better for the cows, but also for wildlife, soil, 382 00:26:53,640 --> 00:26:58,240 everything. We can then bunch them up as... 383 00:26:58,240 --> 00:27:00,320 ..they would have been in nature. 384 00:27:00,320 --> 00:27:02,760 You know, when we had predators, 385 00:27:02,760 --> 00:27:06,800 wolves...they would have kept cattle 386 00:27:06,800 --> 00:27:10,680 bunched up and moving frequently, which is kind of what we're trying 387 00:27:10,680 --> 00:27:12,840 to do with the electric fencing. 388 00:27:12,840 --> 00:27:16,600 We took on some fell ponies from Libby Robinson recently, 389 00:27:16,600 --> 00:27:20,480 and we've... They're still up in the winter block. 390 00:27:20,480 --> 00:27:25,040 The idea is, later in the year when things get a bit longer 391 00:27:25,040 --> 00:27:28,640 and drier, we're going to introduce the ponies 392 00:27:28,640 --> 00:27:30,240 behind the cows. 393 00:27:30,240 --> 00:27:34,320 So if there's anything that's left behind, like little bits of rushes 394 00:27:34,320 --> 00:27:38,080 or dock or something, the ponies will come in and just clear 395 00:27:38,080 --> 00:27:41,640 it up and then we'll keep moving them behind the cows. 396 00:27:43,440 --> 00:27:49,200 The fell pony goes back into the mists of time in the Lake District. 397 00:27:49,200 --> 00:27:52,800 The fell pony has not had the publicity. 398 00:27:52,800 --> 00:27:58,200 It's not had the kudos of other native breeds of domestic animal 399 00:27:58,200 --> 00:28:00,560 like the Herdwick sheep. 400 00:28:00,560 --> 00:28:05,280 We know that Beatrix Potter certainly used them and obviously 401 00:28:05,280 --> 00:28:10,560 had them for carriage work and using them probably on some of her farms 402 00:28:10,560 --> 00:28:15,160 for shepherding, which was before the quad bike. 403 00:28:15,160 --> 00:28:19,960 Most shepherds would use a pony to go and see their sheep 404 00:28:19,960 --> 00:28:21,920 up on the top of the fells. 405 00:28:22,920 --> 00:28:26,560 The fell pony eats on the move, 406 00:28:26,560 --> 00:28:29,680 er, it is a... It's not a ruminant 407 00:28:29,680 --> 00:28:34,280 like cattle and sheep and deer, who will go in a group. 408 00:28:34,280 --> 00:28:38,840 Ponies have small stomachs and very large intestines, 409 00:28:38,840 --> 00:28:43,280 which means that they are eating all the time for about 18 hours 410 00:28:43,280 --> 00:28:48,200 of the day, small amounts, and they can walk up to 15 miles a day. 411 00:28:49,640 --> 00:28:52,600 The fell pony has been here for so long, 412 00:28:52,600 --> 00:28:56,320 it has actually acclimatised itself 413 00:28:56,320 --> 00:28:59,000 to be able to live and survive 414 00:28:59,000 --> 00:29:03,760 in quite hostile upland conditions, 415 00:29:03,760 --> 00:29:08,640 constantly picking all the vegetation that they will enjoy 416 00:29:08,640 --> 00:29:13,400 eating. They'll eat gorse, they'll eat rushes. 417 00:29:13,400 --> 00:29:17,040 These then with their droppings and dung create the soil 418 00:29:17,040 --> 00:29:20,480 that's so important to keep up on the fell. 419 00:29:20,480 --> 00:29:26,560 So it's important as they use up these wonderful round feet 420 00:29:26,560 --> 00:29:30,880 that they have, to trample the vegetation for the spring 421 00:29:30,880 --> 00:29:35,240 so that the new grasses and germination of plants 422 00:29:35,240 --> 00:29:37,600 and wild flowers will be created. 423 00:29:38,600 --> 00:29:42,600 We need to be able to see more of them being used 424 00:29:42,600 --> 00:29:44,640 for conservation grazing. 425 00:29:44,640 --> 00:29:48,720 And the fell the pony will give that and make it a workable 426 00:29:48,720 --> 00:29:51,120 environment for other species. 427 00:29:53,160 --> 00:29:55,400 But there are not that many. 428 00:29:55,400 --> 00:29:59,440 Doing some research, there's probably only about 429 00:29:59,440 --> 00:30:01,480 200 actual breeding mares 430 00:30:01,480 --> 00:30:03,920 that are up on these areas. 431 00:30:03,920 --> 00:30:08,760 So there's very few and they need to be encouraged - that we know 432 00:30:08,760 --> 00:30:12,680 more about them, know more about what they can do in helping 433 00:30:12,680 --> 00:30:17,320 the conservation of the Lake District and giving back 434 00:30:17,320 --> 00:30:21,400 that wonderful capacity that 435 00:30:21,400 --> 00:30:25,520 they have as part of wildlife. 436 00:30:25,520 --> 00:30:28,720 And so to be seen more and appreciated more. 437 00:30:34,080 --> 00:30:37,040 OWL HOOTS 438 00:30:51,480 --> 00:30:54,360 CROAKING 439 00:30:54,360 --> 00:30:56,920 OWL HOOTING CONTINUES 440 00:31:02,360 --> 00:31:05,800 BIRDS CHEEP 441 00:31:10,400 --> 00:31:14,120 BIRDSONG 442 00:31:23,920 --> 00:31:28,000 BIRDS TWEET 443 00:32:01,600 --> 00:32:05,120 BIRD SCREECHES 444 00:32:16,200 --> 00:32:18,960 I absolutely love the Lake District. 445 00:32:18,960 --> 00:32:24,360 It's a place that never fails to inspire me and excite me. 446 00:32:24,360 --> 00:32:27,960 Possibly one of the things that many people don't realise 447 00:32:27,960 --> 00:32:31,400 is that when they look at these amazing landscapes, they're not 448 00:32:31,400 --> 00:32:34,240 just looking at a phenomenal natural landscape - 449 00:32:34,240 --> 00:32:37,280 they're also looking at a human landscape. 450 00:32:37,280 --> 00:32:41,080 You come into Pooley Bridge and Dunmallard Hill, and on the top 451 00:32:41,080 --> 00:32:43,800 of that is an Iron Age enclosure. 452 00:32:43,800 --> 00:32:46,400 So it dates from about.. 453 00:32:46,400 --> 00:32:51,080 ..2,000 years ago, possibly 3,000 years ago, and obviously 454 00:32:51,080 --> 00:32:52,440 if you're at the top of that hill, 455 00:32:52,440 --> 00:32:54,920 then you're saying something about yourselves, as well. 456 00:32:54,920 --> 00:32:58,760 It's not just about fighting with the tribe next door. 457 00:32:58,760 --> 00:33:02,160 What an amazing place to command! 458 00:33:03,840 --> 00:33:05,920 I'd live there. 459 00:33:05,920 --> 00:33:10,200 So, for example, over there, you've got Askham Fell and that's got 460 00:33:10,200 --> 00:33:13,040 more than a hundred Bronze Age monuments - 461 00:33:13,040 --> 00:33:17,560 stone circles, alignments, trackways, evidence of hut circles - 462 00:33:17,560 --> 00:33:21,440 but it's just an indicator for us 463 00:33:21,440 --> 00:33:25,600 of how important and how busy a place this was. 464 00:33:25,600 --> 00:33:29,680 This is a place that says as much about history as it does 465 00:33:29,680 --> 00:33:32,200 about geology or the natural world. 466 00:33:36,480 --> 00:33:41,320 Glenridding now is obviously mostly a tourist town, it's catering 467 00:33:41,320 --> 00:33:44,440 for the tourist trade, and most of these little cottages here 468 00:33:44,440 --> 00:33:46,840 are holiday cottages that you can rent. 469 00:33:46,840 --> 00:33:53,560 But the origins of this village are actually in pretty heavy industry 470 00:33:53,560 --> 00:33:57,520 because just further up the valley is the Greenside Mine. 471 00:33:57,520 --> 00:34:00,400 It was a lead ore mine, one of the biggest and most important 472 00:34:00,400 --> 00:34:01,840 in the country. 473 00:34:01,840 --> 00:34:05,800 And it was really extensively worked from about 1825. 474 00:34:05,800 --> 00:34:08,120 These cottages - 475 00:34:08,120 --> 00:34:11,320 lovely and picturesque holiday lets that they are now - 476 00:34:11,320 --> 00:34:16,200 started off as workers' cottages. These ones were built in 1890, 477 00:34:16,200 --> 00:34:21,160 and they only got fresh water and an inside loo in the 1950s. 478 00:34:25,040 --> 00:34:27,000 After you, Eddie. Right. 479 00:34:27,000 --> 00:34:31,760 So we're here now at the Greenside Mine, up the Glenridding Valley, 480 00:34:31,760 --> 00:34:35,560 and I'm joined by Eddie Pool, who was one of the last workers to 481 00:34:35,560 --> 00:34:38,280 work here while it was still an active mine. 482 00:34:38,280 --> 00:34:40,800 Eddie, what was it like? 483 00:34:40,800 --> 00:34:43,280 Well, very similar to what it is now. 484 00:34:43,280 --> 00:34:45,040 This was the joiner's shop, here. 485 00:34:45,040 --> 00:34:47,920 Yeah. See that further bit there? 486 00:34:47,920 --> 00:34:49,880 Yeah. All that was a furnace. 487 00:34:49,880 --> 00:34:53,400 So how many people were working here? 80 or 90. 488 00:34:53,400 --> 00:34:54,520 It's funny, isn't it? 489 00:34:54,520 --> 00:34:56,920 Because I think people walking up this footpath to get up to 490 00:34:56,920 --> 00:34:59,640 Helvellyn, they might just walk straight past this and not really 491 00:34:59,640 --> 00:35:02,160 pay too much attention. Well, they wouldn't really know. 492 00:35:02,160 --> 00:35:04,800 All this now is going to be turned into sort of accommodation. 493 00:35:04,800 --> 00:35:06,320 The blacksmith shops were in those. 494 00:35:06,320 --> 00:35:09,960 I think there was about 13 blacksmiths here at one time. 495 00:35:09,960 --> 00:35:12,240 For tool sharpening? Yeah, yeah. 496 00:35:12,240 --> 00:35:15,200 Well, tools, sharpening drills and goodness knows what. 497 00:35:15,200 --> 00:35:16,520 Wow. 498 00:35:16,520 --> 00:35:18,800 What was it like working down the mine? 499 00:35:18,800 --> 00:35:22,680 Well, actually, I don't know, nothing. 500 00:35:22,680 --> 00:35:24,880 Just talking to you now, 501 00:35:24,880 --> 00:35:28,200 met me mate one day, he couldn't recognise who I was. 502 00:35:28,200 --> 00:35:29,960 The dust was just so bad. 503 00:35:29,960 --> 00:35:33,080 But they all died when they were 50. 504 00:35:33,080 --> 00:35:34,920 Do you think because of the conditions? 505 00:35:34,920 --> 00:35:36,600 Oh, without any doubt whatsoever. 506 00:35:36,600 --> 00:35:41,840 Uh, and they had a terrible bloody death, you know, 507 00:35:41,840 --> 00:35:43,200 gasping, gasping. 508 00:35:43,200 --> 00:35:46,280 They even had to ask their wives to take the windows out 509 00:35:46,280 --> 00:35:47,960 so's they could get more air. 510 00:35:47,960 --> 00:35:50,320 It was really a horrible bloody death. 511 00:35:50,320 --> 00:35:53,560 Wow. That was where a lot of the work of pushing 512 00:35:53,560 --> 00:35:55,600 the ore took place, just in there. 513 00:35:55,600 --> 00:35:57,440 Here where the beck is coming down? 514 00:35:57,440 --> 00:36:00,640 Yeah. Where... Where that concrete is. 515 00:36:00,640 --> 00:36:05,800 Wow. So all that scree, that's all cast-offs from the mining? 516 00:36:05,800 --> 00:36:09,920 That's right, right from here, right down to the end of there, look. 517 00:36:09,920 --> 00:36:12,920 Wow. Eddie, what level are we at now? 518 00:36:12,920 --> 00:36:14,800 Lucy, Lucy level. Right. 519 00:36:14,800 --> 00:36:17,280 This is where the mines come, 520 00:36:17,280 --> 00:36:19,960 you know, they always brought out. 521 00:36:19,960 --> 00:36:23,200 You went into there about a mile and a half 522 00:36:23,200 --> 00:36:26,800 and then you went down the shaft, huge shaft, 523 00:36:26,800 --> 00:36:30,880 which was about, if I remember right, it was 90 fathom. Wow. 524 00:36:30,880 --> 00:36:36,400 And then you went on again to another shaft to 220 fathom. 525 00:36:36,400 --> 00:36:38,960 And that was at the bottom of the mine. 526 00:36:38,960 --> 00:36:42,880 So you are deep in the mountain massif at that point. 527 00:36:42,880 --> 00:36:45,960 Oh, aye, aye. Did it scare you, going that deep? 528 00:36:45,960 --> 00:36:50,000 Well, you never thought about it. I mean, other folk had done it 529 00:36:50,000 --> 00:36:53,720 most of their lives, you know, and our ancestors 530 00:36:53,720 --> 00:36:56,200 did it and everybody did it. And that was it. 531 00:36:56,200 --> 00:37:01,280 But there was certainly, every now and again, there was somebody badly 532 00:37:01,280 --> 00:37:05,360 hurt, you know, some killed, unfortunately, you know. 533 00:37:05,360 --> 00:37:09,920 And as the mine became sort of less commercially viable, 534 00:37:09,920 --> 00:37:12,800 did you chaps all know that the writing was on the wall, 535 00:37:12,800 --> 00:37:15,000 that things were going to have to change? Yeah. 536 00:37:15,000 --> 00:37:17,880 Yeah, we knew, we knew the ledge seam, 537 00:37:17,880 --> 00:37:20,440 that had all run out up there. 538 00:37:20,440 --> 00:37:25,000 And this one had started, but we knew it was just a matter of time. 539 00:37:26,240 --> 00:37:30,000 I read somewhere that the school in Patterdale went from having 100 540 00:37:30,000 --> 00:37:32,920 children to having 20, basically overnight because 541 00:37:32,920 --> 00:37:34,800 all the families were moving away. 542 00:37:34,800 --> 00:37:37,240 When I was at that school during the war, 543 00:37:37,240 --> 00:37:39,640 there was 100 of us, 544 00:37:39,640 --> 00:37:41,840 there was 100 South Shields evacuees 545 00:37:41,840 --> 00:37:45,280 and there was 50 Czechoslovakian refugees. 546 00:37:45,280 --> 00:37:47,480 That was 250. 547 00:37:47,480 --> 00:37:49,400 But mind, with what they called 548 00:37:49,400 --> 00:37:51,960 the parish rooms, they used them as well. 549 00:37:51,960 --> 00:37:54,480 You know. It's funny, isn't it? 550 00:37:54,480 --> 00:37:58,120 You kind of look at Glenridding as this little picturesque village 551 00:37:58,120 --> 00:38:02,640 in the heart of Lakeland and never changing in this timeless landscape. 552 00:38:02,640 --> 00:38:06,440 But, actually, it was a cosmopolitan hub, wasn't it? 553 00:38:06,440 --> 00:38:08,560 Well, absolutely. Aye. 554 00:38:08,560 --> 00:38:12,880 I think sometimes it's quite easy to dismiss the industrial heritage 555 00:38:12,880 --> 00:38:16,680 of the area as being a bit dirty, a bit grubby, something 556 00:38:16,680 --> 00:38:19,440 that we should probably cover up in order to let the natural 557 00:38:19,440 --> 00:38:21,080 beauty back through. 558 00:38:21,080 --> 00:38:23,600 But I think that's absolutely wrong. 559 00:38:23,600 --> 00:38:26,760 This is part of the story of this landscape. 560 00:38:26,760 --> 00:38:30,920 This mine is part of the story of Helvellyn as a mountain. 561 00:38:30,920 --> 00:38:33,920 And, actually, the next time you go to Helvellyn, if you're walking 562 00:38:33,920 --> 00:38:37,040 in from the east side, you're stepping over traces 563 00:38:37,040 --> 00:38:39,240 of the hidden histories of this place. 564 00:38:39,240 --> 00:38:42,120 So walking up along towards Red Tarn, 565 00:38:42,120 --> 00:38:44,920 you step over the pipelines that fed 566 00:38:44,920 --> 00:38:47,720 hydroelectric power to this place, or if you walk 567 00:38:47,720 --> 00:38:51,560 over towards Keppel Cove, that was the site of a disaster 568 00:38:51,560 --> 00:38:56,080 in 1927 where a dam broke and released a huge flood of water 569 00:38:56,080 --> 00:39:00,320 all the way down the valley into the village of Glenridding. 570 00:39:00,320 --> 00:39:04,200 All around us in this landscape are the traces of the people who've 571 00:39:04,200 --> 00:39:08,720 come before - whether that's farmers or miners or tourists - and every 572 00:39:08,720 --> 00:39:12,960 single one of those people have made a mark on this incredible landscape. 573 00:39:12,960 --> 00:39:15,160 And what you see today is the sum 574 00:39:15,160 --> 00:39:18,440 total of thousands of years of human endeavour. 575 00:39:18,440 --> 00:39:22,040 And that's just one of the reasons that I love this place. 576 00:39:36,960 --> 00:39:39,880 BIRDSONG 577 00:39:57,120 --> 00:40:00,040 CATTLE LOWING 578 00:40:00,040 --> 00:40:03,160 Helvellyn and the rest of the fells have inspired 579 00:40:03,160 --> 00:40:05,640 countless artists and storytellers. 580 00:40:05,640 --> 00:40:08,880 And in the late 1700s, tourists decided they wanted 581 00:40:08,880 --> 00:40:11,840 to come and experience this wild landscape for themselves. 582 00:40:11,840 --> 00:40:14,520 There were plenty of guidebooks to meet their demand. 583 00:40:14,520 --> 00:40:16,440 But most of these were little more 584 00:40:16,440 --> 00:40:18,480 than holiday journals describing 585 00:40:18,480 --> 00:40:21,680 the same few routes up a limited number of hills. 586 00:40:21,680 --> 00:40:25,000 Some of the books even instructed the tourists on how they should 587 00:40:25,000 --> 00:40:26,400 admire the scenery. 588 00:40:28,000 --> 00:40:32,440 But then came AW, the man who burst the bubble, who started a whole 589 00:40:32,440 --> 00:40:34,000 new tradition. 590 00:40:34,000 --> 00:40:38,600 Alfred Wainwright focused on the fells and the routes up them. 591 00:40:38,600 --> 00:40:41,080 That's not to say that he didn't have similarities 592 00:40:41,080 --> 00:40:42,960 with the picturesque movement. 593 00:40:42,960 --> 00:40:46,560 And his notes have an air of romanticism, especially 594 00:40:46,560 --> 00:40:50,880 when he describes his first book as a love letter to the fells, 595 00:40:50,880 --> 00:40:54,440 born out of years of inarticulate worship. 596 00:40:54,440 --> 00:40:58,080 But Wainwright alone brought a clarity to the 214 fells 597 00:40:58,080 --> 00:40:59,720 that he documented. 598 00:40:59,720 --> 00:41:03,440 He didn't do it for money. He didn't even want his name on the book - 599 00:41:03,440 --> 00:41:05,320 the first copies of which were sold 600 00:41:05,320 --> 00:41:07,400 at the post office here in Patterdale. 601 00:41:07,400 --> 00:41:12,360 Wainwright was born in Blackburn on 17th January, in 1907. 602 00:41:12,360 --> 00:41:15,000 Like most children back in those days, he was destined 603 00:41:15,000 --> 00:41:16,840 for the mills. But Wainwright 604 00:41:16,840 --> 00:41:19,600 was a clever boy and did really well at school. 605 00:41:19,600 --> 00:41:21,520 He came top in all the subjects. 606 00:41:21,520 --> 00:41:26,160 He also loved art and used to do doodling and do cartoons. 607 00:41:26,160 --> 00:41:30,000 And he loved reading maps, as well - he'd pore over maps most evenings. 608 00:41:30,000 --> 00:41:34,000 So when Wainwright was aged 23, he decided to go to the Lake District 609 00:41:34,000 --> 00:41:36,560 for a week's holiday. He'd never seen anything like it - 610 00:41:36,560 --> 00:41:38,840 these mountains, and overlooking Windermere 611 00:41:38,840 --> 00:41:40,400 and seeing all this greenery. 612 00:41:40,400 --> 00:41:41,680 And it changed his life. 613 00:41:41,680 --> 00:41:45,520 And that day started his love affair with the Lake District. 614 00:41:45,520 --> 00:41:49,400 What makes the Wainwright book so special for me is everything's 615 00:41:49,400 --> 00:41:51,840 been done by hand or by pen and ink, 616 00:41:51,840 --> 00:41:56,040 that the mountains, you know, just brought to life on the page 617 00:41:56,040 --> 00:41:57,880 in 3D on this piece of paper. 618 00:41:57,880 --> 00:42:00,640 The amount of attention to detail he put in. 619 00:42:00,640 --> 00:42:04,680 And not only that - it's not only that it made the mountains 620 00:42:04,680 --> 00:42:09,240 accessible to everybody - it's his philosophical outlook on life 621 00:42:09,240 --> 00:42:13,200 and the way he describes things in a poetic way. As you progress 622 00:42:13,200 --> 00:42:15,920 through the books, you learn more about Wainwright, his life 623 00:42:15,920 --> 00:42:18,520 and his appreciation for the environment 624 00:42:18,520 --> 00:42:21,400 and the animals and nature. 625 00:42:21,400 --> 00:42:23,600 These are the three holiday at home leaflets - 626 00:42:23,600 --> 00:42:26,640 these are very, very rare, these are Wainwright's very own. 627 00:42:26,640 --> 00:42:30,480 And I've only seen two sets of these. 628 00:42:30,480 --> 00:42:32,720 Maybe someone's got a set in the loft, who knows? 629 00:42:32,720 --> 00:42:35,080 But these are very, very rare. 630 00:42:35,080 --> 00:42:38,320 There's a Desert Island Discs tape from the BBC, the original tape. 631 00:42:38,320 --> 00:42:39,920 Wainwright's photographs. 632 00:42:39,920 --> 00:42:44,160 Erm, I've got absolutely piles of newspaper cuttings. 633 00:42:44,160 --> 00:42:48,520 Yeah, it's hard to pin down Wainwright's character. 634 00:42:48,520 --> 00:42:51,080 He was... He was very obsessed with his work. 635 00:42:51,080 --> 00:42:53,400 Whatever he set his task to, he was obsessed. 636 00:42:53,400 --> 00:42:56,880 But you've got to also appreciate he was a man of his times. 637 00:42:56,880 --> 00:43:02,560 What people also kind of forget is...is how generous he was. 638 00:43:02,560 --> 00:43:05,120 There was many acts of generosity throughout his life. 639 00:43:05,120 --> 00:43:08,600 He even sold his copyright to the Westmoreland Gazette 640 00:43:08,600 --> 00:43:13,160 so he could build a shelter for animal rescue in Cumbria in 1984. 641 00:43:14,440 --> 00:43:17,320 It was a man who came from very humble beginnings, 642 00:43:17,320 --> 00:43:21,480 who followed a dream and has created these amazing guide books 643 00:43:21,480 --> 00:43:25,480 that are his legacy, that all walkers around the world 644 00:43:25,480 --> 00:43:29,200 have enjoyed, and will continue to do so for decades to come. 645 00:43:35,600 --> 00:43:39,720 I was writing all my notes and descriptions and so on, for the time 646 00:43:39,720 --> 00:43:42,560 when I was too old to go on the fells. 647 00:43:42,560 --> 00:43:45,160 I found it so wonderful. 648 00:43:45,160 --> 00:43:48,880 Never dreamt that there could be a landscape like that, 649 00:43:48,880 --> 00:43:51,480 giving pleasure to other people, 650 00:43:51,480 --> 00:43:53,640 and quite happy about it. 651 00:43:53,640 --> 00:43:56,920 When I first came, if you walked along the street with a rucksack 652 00:43:56,920 --> 00:43:59,280 on your back in Keswick or Ambleside, 653 00:43:59,280 --> 00:44:02,760 you were an object of curiosity. 654 00:44:02,760 --> 00:44:05,360 But of course, once you're out of the valleys, 655 00:44:05,360 --> 00:44:07,120 then it's just as it used to be. 656 00:44:07,120 --> 00:44:11,720 You can be on your own all day long on the fells. 657 00:44:11,720 --> 00:44:14,880 I've got memories now. I live on memories now - 658 00:44:14,880 --> 00:44:17,400 not on what I've written in the past. 659 00:44:24,200 --> 00:44:25,480 Oh, no! 660 00:44:25,480 --> 00:44:27,360 We've done this sort of thing before. 661 00:44:27,360 --> 00:44:31,120 You'll manage. You've never lied to me before, David. 662 00:44:31,120 --> 00:44:34,560 Why should I start now? Except all those times you lied to me! 663 00:44:34,560 --> 00:44:36,320 THEY LAUGH 664 00:44:36,320 --> 00:44:40,200 I'm going to do this on four or five points of contact, 665 00:44:40,200 --> 00:44:42,720 is that all right? Five points... Is that acceptable? 666 00:44:42,720 --> 00:44:45,320 Five points of contact, is that acceptable? Yeah, yeah. 667 00:44:46,880 --> 00:44:49,160 You can jump across there if you want. Me? 668 00:44:49,160 --> 00:44:51,040 Yes. OK. 669 00:44:51,040 --> 00:44:54,760 Uh, yeah. I'll go this way, I think. OK. 670 00:44:57,040 --> 00:44:58,800 Did you jump? Yes. 671 00:44:58,800 --> 00:45:01,280 Oh, OK. David, you're showing me up. 672 00:45:01,280 --> 00:45:04,200 No, no, no. Showing me up now. Right. 673 00:45:04,200 --> 00:45:07,320 There's that memorial. Where are we going now, down there? Yeah. 674 00:45:07,320 --> 00:45:11,560 Is this... This is the memorial to the huntsman who fell. 675 00:45:11,560 --> 00:45:14,120 Oh, wow. Yeah. 676 00:45:14,120 --> 00:45:16,960 You know what? I'm never terribly keen on seeing memorials 677 00:45:16,960 --> 00:45:19,800 when I'm on walks to people who've fallen off. 678 00:45:19,800 --> 00:45:21,920 Disconcerting, yeah. 679 00:45:21,920 --> 00:45:24,360 It just kind of sets with the wrong kind of vibe for me, David. 680 00:45:25,680 --> 00:45:27,000 Oh. 681 00:45:27,000 --> 00:45:31,280 Is this the best ridge path in the Lake District, do you think? 682 00:45:31,280 --> 00:45:33,040 Oh, it's certainly one of them. 683 00:45:33,040 --> 00:45:34,400 Yeah. 684 00:45:34,400 --> 00:45:37,720 I know Wainwright goes on about it being the grandest. 685 00:45:37,720 --> 00:45:41,280 Yeah. The grandest descent of any mountain. 686 00:45:41,280 --> 00:45:43,680 The thing is, it's sustained - it's quite long. 687 00:45:43,680 --> 00:45:46,920 Do you find that people - when you guide people up here, 688 00:45:46,920 --> 00:45:50,000 do you find people lose their nerve? 689 00:45:50,000 --> 00:45:52,200 They do, they do. 690 00:45:52,200 --> 00:45:56,680 I've had people just take one look at it and turn tail and that was it. 691 00:45:56,680 --> 00:45:58,960 Yeah. Yeah. 692 00:45:58,960 --> 00:46:03,080 Yes. Well, we have done Sharp Edge together. We have. 693 00:46:03,080 --> 00:46:04,480 And I can't pre... 694 00:46:04,480 --> 00:46:08,000 I have to say, thus far, I'm liking this better. 695 00:46:08,000 --> 00:46:10,640 Yes. I'm liking the sense... 696 00:46:10,640 --> 00:46:13,200 I don't know whether I'm liking the... 697 00:46:13,200 --> 00:46:15,120 It's an interesting route. 698 00:46:15,120 --> 00:46:17,960 You have to... You've got to have your wits about you for the route. 699 00:46:17,960 --> 00:46:21,640 Whereas Sharp Edge, there was some times when I felt I was just 700 00:46:21,640 --> 00:46:23,640 teetering above the abyss. Yes. 701 00:46:25,520 --> 00:46:29,040 We used to come to the Lake District every year for our family holiday. 702 00:46:29,040 --> 00:46:34,880 Yeah. And I was always fascinated by picture postcards 703 00:46:34,880 --> 00:46:38,200 of Striding Edge. Yeah. Fantastic. 704 00:46:38,200 --> 00:46:39,760 No, it's the... 705 00:46:39,760 --> 00:46:43,640 "Iconic" is an overused word these days, 706 00:46:43,640 --> 00:46:47,080 but this genuinely is, isn't it? Yes. 707 00:46:47,080 --> 00:46:51,680 I mean, in the setting with the dark, brooding waters of the tarn. 708 00:46:53,200 --> 00:46:56,160 The occasional falling fell walker. 709 00:46:56,160 --> 00:46:58,280 He said! 710 00:46:58,280 --> 00:47:02,280 Now, this is magnificent. You've got to take it in. 711 00:47:02,280 --> 00:47:05,280 This is really magnificent mountain scenery, isn't it? 712 00:47:05,280 --> 00:47:07,360 We're lucky. And you've got to, 713 00:47:07,360 --> 00:47:10,240 like a lot of the Lake District, you need... 714 00:47:10,240 --> 00:47:13,840 You can see a lot of it from a car, but you have to make this 715 00:47:13,840 --> 00:47:17,480 effort to really get...to really get the proper sense of it. 716 00:47:18,600 --> 00:47:22,400 Right. So this is... This is the bad step. OK. 717 00:47:22,400 --> 00:47:26,280 Keep three points of contact at all times. OK. 718 00:47:26,280 --> 00:47:27,600 Five if you've got them. 719 00:47:27,600 --> 00:47:31,120 Well, let's hope it stays at just five. 720 00:47:31,120 --> 00:47:32,800 OK. 721 00:47:32,800 --> 00:47:34,240 So... OK. 722 00:47:34,240 --> 00:47:36,160 There are plenty of footholds 723 00:47:36,160 --> 00:47:38,440 and there are plenty of handholds. 724 00:47:38,440 --> 00:47:40,080 OK, you... Yeah. 725 00:47:40,080 --> 00:47:42,160 You go down a little and then I can... 726 00:47:42,160 --> 00:47:44,880 A few handholds, there's good ones everywhere. Got one. 727 00:47:44,880 --> 00:47:47,520 Yeah. That's literally the Bad Step, isn't it? 728 00:47:47,520 --> 00:47:49,760 That is it, yes. 729 00:47:49,760 --> 00:47:53,400 Whoa. We're not quite down yet, but that was the worst of it. 730 00:47:53,400 --> 00:47:54,840 There was a certain... 731 00:47:54,840 --> 00:47:57,840 There was a certain frisson of stretching my legs over that gap. 732 00:47:57,840 --> 00:48:00,520 I don't mind telling you. 733 00:48:00,520 --> 00:48:04,000 A certain... I won't say erotic frisson. 734 00:48:04,000 --> 00:48:05,840 That's no offence, Dave, but... 735 00:48:07,520 --> 00:48:11,760 That's it - done. Is that it? That's it. Striding Edge - done. 736 00:48:11,760 --> 00:48:14,360 Really? Yeah. Well done. 737 00:48:14,360 --> 00:48:16,120 Hang on. Thank you. 738 00:48:16,120 --> 00:48:21,640 Well, thank you, er... Thank you for being such an able guy. Wow! 739 00:48:21,640 --> 00:48:24,520 Oh, wow! Hey, that looks worse from below. 740 00:48:24,520 --> 00:48:26,920 I feel quite pleased with myself. Good. 741 00:48:28,040 --> 00:48:30,240 Oh, man. Yes! 742 00:48:34,680 --> 00:48:36,360 Another memorial? Yep. 743 00:48:37,600 --> 00:48:42,160 This is the first mountain I was brought up. Really? 744 00:48:42,160 --> 00:48:46,240 Yep, my father brought me up here and stood me on top 745 00:48:46,240 --> 00:48:47,640 of the trig point - 746 00:48:47,640 --> 00:48:52,840 the trig point being 3,118 feet above sea level. Yeah. 747 00:48:52,840 --> 00:48:55,600 And with me stood on the top, 748 00:48:55,600 --> 00:48:58,400 3,121 feet above sea level. 749 00:48:58,400 --> 00:49:00,960 You topped out at three... Yes. 750 00:49:00,960 --> 00:49:03,200 Are you going to do it again? I will try. Come on. 751 00:49:03,200 --> 00:49:05,880 I think you can do it. It's, er... It's a bit windy. 752 00:49:05,880 --> 00:49:07,160 It was only 20 years ago. 753 00:49:07,160 --> 00:49:08,760 BOTH CHUCKLE 754 00:49:08,760 --> 00:49:10,280 Come on. 755 00:49:10,280 --> 00:49:12,640 It's my turn to show you the footholds now. Come on. OK? 756 00:49:14,680 --> 00:49:16,640 DAVID GROANS 757 00:49:14,680 --> 00:49:16,640 Right, I'm going to stand here. 758 00:49:16,640 --> 00:49:18,840 Yeah. Try that. Right. 759 00:49:18,840 --> 00:49:23,160 Oh. Can you stand up? Yay! Well done. Yay! Cheers. 760 00:49:23,160 --> 00:49:25,080 Oh! You all right? 761 00:49:26,280 --> 00:49:29,800 Right. Oh, that's a long time since I last did this. Wow! 762 00:49:29,800 --> 00:49:31,240 That's good. 763 00:49:32,600 --> 00:49:34,360 Are you all right? Yeah. 764 00:49:34,360 --> 00:49:37,800 Well, I'm glad I didn't fall off it. No, I'm glad. That would have... 765 00:49:37,800 --> 00:49:39,760 We don't want the David Powell-Thompson 766 00:49:39,760 --> 00:49:40,880 memorial up here, as well. 767 00:49:40,880 --> 00:49:43,000 But it's wild, it's kind of other-worldly today. 768 00:49:43,000 --> 00:49:45,120 It's like the surface of the moon, isn't it? Yeah. 769 00:49:45,120 --> 00:49:47,720 And it's just getting worse, isn't it? It is, isn't it? Yeah. 770 00:49:47,720 --> 00:49:49,520 That's Swirral Edge. Swirral Edge. 771 00:52:04,760 --> 00:52:06,800 In 2014, I was diagnosed with 772 00:52:06,800 --> 00:52:09,920 high-functioning bipolar disorder. 773 00:52:09,920 --> 00:52:12,560 It was all triggered by my mother passing away. 774 00:52:12,560 --> 00:52:17,920 She'd spent about ten years or so being very mentally ill. 775 00:52:17,920 --> 00:52:20,960 It sort of triggered this whole series of events that led me 776 00:52:20,960 --> 00:52:22,400 to being diagnosed. 777 00:52:22,400 --> 00:52:25,400 And for a few years after, I really struggled and I needed to find 778 00:52:25,400 --> 00:52:28,400 another way to cope - to cope with being bipolar, 779 00:52:28,400 --> 00:52:31,360 with all the ups and downs that come not only with life, 780 00:52:31,360 --> 00:52:34,000 but with having a mental illness like that. 781 00:52:34,000 --> 00:52:36,920 I got active in the outdoors and I realised 782 00:52:36,920 --> 00:52:40,760 that being in the mountains especially 783 00:52:40,760 --> 00:52:45,200 just really helped calm me down, because when you're outside, 784 00:52:45,200 --> 00:52:49,080 when you're on the summit, everything just seems to fade away. 785 00:52:49,080 --> 00:52:50,400 Nothing else matters. 786 00:52:50,400 --> 00:52:53,320 For me, it's moments like that that the Lake District, you just... 787 00:52:53,320 --> 00:52:56,560 ..you can't get anywhere else and it's really special 788 00:52:56,560 --> 00:52:59,320 in the sense that those moments do stay with you forever. 789 00:53:00,520 --> 00:53:03,960 Coming to the mountains has definitely improved my mental health 790 00:53:03,960 --> 00:53:06,600 and well-being, as well as my physical health and well-being. 791 00:53:06,600 --> 00:53:09,280 And for sure, it's a form of medication for me. 792 00:53:10,760 --> 00:53:13,720 I've always been an active person, and being outdoors 793 00:53:13,720 --> 00:53:17,040 is where I find my battery recharge, as it were. 794 00:53:17,040 --> 00:53:19,000 And in 2006, it all came to a head 795 00:53:19,000 --> 00:53:21,600 when a truck ran into the back of my car 796 00:53:21,600 --> 00:53:24,320 and my life changed dramatically. 797 00:53:24,320 --> 00:53:27,000 Housebound for around two years, 798 00:53:27,000 --> 00:53:30,160 struggling to see any...any light. 799 00:53:30,160 --> 00:53:33,880 Your mind starts playing very, very dark tricks with you. 800 00:53:33,880 --> 00:53:37,240 I was clinically diagnosed with severe depression 801 00:53:37,240 --> 00:53:40,840 and I was on the verge of suicide and... 802 00:53:44,240 --> 00:53:46,040 ..I met this chap 803 00:53:46,040 --> 00:53:49,440 and this old man lived around the corner from me, 804 00:53:49,440 --> 00:53:52,560 and it was basically as far as I could walk to go and see him. 805 00:53:55,880 --> 00:53:57,320 And Max is my miracle dog. 806 00:53:58,760 --> 00:54:00,600 He gave me a reason to get 807 00:54:00,600 --> 00:54:03,040 out of the house to go and see him. 808 00:54:03,040 --> 00:54:05,760 And from that day on, my life changed dramatically. 809 00:54:07,320 --> 00:54:12,760 We started cataloguing photographs of Max, and it was more, I suppose, 810 00:54:12,760 --> 00:54:16,800 for me to show where I'd been and where I got to. 811 00:54:16,800 --> 00:54:19,520 So I could say to people, "Oh, this is how far I walked today," 812 00:54:19,520 --> 00:54:21,640 or, "This is where we went today." 813 00:54:21,640 --> 00:54:26,640 And it was suggested that Max should have his own Facebook page. 814 00:54:27,800 --> 00:54:31,120 I think we're just over the 100,000 followers mark 815 00:54:31,120 --> 00:54:33,600 in about three and a half years, four years. 816 00:54:33,600 --> 00:54:37,840 And it's incredible because you don't realise the reach 817 00:54:37,840 --> 00:54:40,840 that your photograph of the Lake District, 818 00:54:40,840 --> 00:54:43,920 where that goes in the world and how it makes people feel. 819 00:54:43,920 --> 00:54:46,320 And that's the miracle of them, really, 820 00:54:46,320 --> 00:54:49,480 is that they make people smile and they make people happy. 821 00:54:49,480 --> 00:54:51,760 This one came along - Paddy. 822 00:54:51,760 --> 00:54:53,400 Paddy's been brilliant. 823 00:54:53,400 --> 00:54:56,400 He's just a live wire - he's full of fun and full of energy. 824 00:54:56,400 --> 00:55:03,200 And he's been superseded by our rather quiet puppy 825 00:55:03,200 --> 00:55:07,240 called Harry - Prince Harry of Winterfells. 826 00:55:07,240 --> 00:55:10,920 We put Max through a therapy-dog training programme. 827 00:55:10,920 --> 00:55:13,200 So he's a registered therapy dog. 828 00:55:13,200 --> 00:55:15,800 And we decided that we had something here 829 00:55:15,800 --> 00:55:18,480 and we had a vessel for promoting the area, 830 00:55:18,480 --> 00:55:22,040 but also for doing valuable work for various charities, 831 00:55:22,040 --> 00:55:25,440 including the Search and Rescue Dogs, Mountain Rescue. 832 00:55:25,440 --> 00:55:32,640 And from that, we received an invite to the Queen's Garden Party 833 00:55:32,640 --> 00:55:34,280 in Buckingham Palace in May. 834 00:55:35,560 --> 00:55:37,880 And Max came along with us. 835 00:55:37,880 --> 00:55:42,280 We have a lot of military people who will follow us, who have served 836 00:55:42,280 --> 00:55:44,920 in Afghanistan or Iraq, and they were coming up to me 837 00:55:44,920 --> 00:55:49,680 and telling us what it meant to be reminded of home and... 838 00:55:51,000 --> 00:55:54,320 VOICE BREAKING: ..how much our little dog had helped them. 839 00:55:56,360 --> 00:55:57,720 And I can't repay him for that. 840 00:56:00,080 --> 00:56:01,200 Not ever. 841 00:56:15,800 --> 00:56:17,680 Helvellyn's just one of them places 842 00:56:17,680 --> 00:56:20,760 to me, it's like a... It's like a big playground. 843 00:56:20,760 --> 00:56:23,480 It's got a real mixture of everything, you know. 844 00:56:23,480 --> 00:56:26,080 Striding Edge, Swirral Edge is quite a tough scramble, 845 00:56:26,080 --> 00:56:29,560 but it's a little exposed, you know, and running fast along it, 846 00:56:29,560 --> 00:56:31,720 it gives you that little bit of thrill. 847 00:56:31,720 --> 00:56:33,200 I like to think of myself 848 00:56:33,200 --> 00:56:34,680 as being pretty tough, to be honest. 849 00:56:34,680 --> 00:56:38,440 Sometimes the harder it is, I tend to think, the better I do. 850 00:56:38,440 --> 00:56:40,720 But I'll prefer it to be 851 00:56:40,720 --> 00:56:42,440 a horrible day, to be honest, 852 00:56:42,440 --> 00:56:44,760 and I think I'll fare a lot better. 853 00:56:44,760 --> 00:56:46,720 I think fell running started for me 854 00:56:46,720 --> 00:56:50,280 when I was, you know, 14, 15, and I went from racing 855 00:56:50,280 --> 00:56:53,840 on the West Coast or racing around Cumbria, you know, 856 00:56:53,840 --> 00:56:55,680 to racing all over the world. 857 00:56:55,680 --> 00:56:58,400 Although trail running and mountain running 858 00:56:58,400 --> 00:57:01,240 in Europe and all over the world's taken off, 859 00:57:01,240 --> 00:57:03,560 in my eyes, it'll never match fell running. 860 00:57:03,560 --> 00:57:07,520 Fell running's got a different atmosphere and a camaraderie 861 00:57:07,520 --> 00:57:11,760 what isn't in any other sport or fashion of the sport, you know. 862 00:57:11,760 --> 00:57:14,720 And I think it's real personal to the Lakes. 863 00:57:14,720 --> 00:57:16,480 You know, these are classic 864 00:57:16,480 --> 00:57:18,280 races what you'll never get 865 00:57:18,280 --> 00:57:20,280 anywhere else in the world. 866 00:57:20,280 --> 00:57:22,120 And the Lake District has always sort of bred 867 00:57:22,120 --> 00:57:24,200 sort of top-class fell runners. 868 00:57:24,200 --> 00:57:26,520 Not that I'm calling myself a top-class fell runner, 869 00:57:26,520 --> 00:57:28,960 you know, but you just have to look at the likes 870 00:57:28,960 --> 00:57:32,320 of Billy Bland and Joss Naylor and, er, Rob Jebb, 871 00:57:32,320 --> 00:57:36,400 you know, that are akin to, you know, Olympic athletes. 872 00:57:37,760 --> 00:57:39,360 I have a mini adventure every day. 873 00:57:39,360 --> 00:57:42,880 and that keeps me enticed to try different places, different routes, 874 00:57:42,880 --> 00:57:46,200 up routes what possibly nobody's ever been on before. 875 00:57:46,200 --> 00:57:49,680 I'll maybe never find some, but I can always keep trying. 876 00:58:01,800 --> 00:58:04,680 # On the cliff near my home 877 00:58:04,680 --> 00:58:08,240 # There's a forest still unknown 878 00:58:08,240 --> 00:58:13,600 # I have seen words when I was a child 879 00:58:14,600 --> 00:58:17,520 # And inside there's a tree 880 00:58:17,520 --> 00:58:21,080 # That gives life to those who seek 881 00:58:21,080 --> 00:58:26,280 # But to heal the world I'd give it all away 882 00:58:26,280 --> 00:58:29,920 # And I know 883 00:58:29,920 --> 00:58:33,360 # I have been searching all my life 884 00:58:33,360 --> 00:58:36,600 # Though I haven't found it yet 885 00:58:36,600 --> 00:58:39,520 # Until now 886 00:58:39,520 --> 00:58:42,640 # I can see it's still there 887 00:58:42,640 --> 00:58:46,280 # In the mystic air 888 00:58:46,280 --> 00:58:52,440 # When it will be rediscovered one more time... # 889 00:59:14,200 --> 00:59:15,560 CHATTER 890 00:59:22,560 --> 00:59:25,600 Well, it's not bad for a little village show. 891 00:59:25,600 --> 00:59:27,280 Look at the people who are here today. 892 00:59:27,280 --> 00:59:29,360 CHATTER 893 00:59:29,360 --> 00:59:33,560 Generally speaking, they're people who may be on holiday, 894 00:59:33,560 --> 00:59:38,080 but they've come and they're recognising the importance. 895 00:59:38,080 --> 00:59:40,240 And everything that you're seeing here 896 00:59:40,240 --> 00:59:44,800 is about what we say is normal life round here. 897 00:59:44,800 --> 00:59:46,920 Farming's changed. 898 00:59:46,920 --> 00:59:51,040 And the tragedy is that the local people who know how to run 899 00:59:51,040 --> 00:59:52,920 and look after sheep on these fells, 900 00:59:52,920 --> 00:59:55,000 they're the ones who are disappearing. 901 00:59:55,000 --> 00:59:59,200 Now, a stick like this, it should catch your sheep, 902 00:59:59,200 --> 01:00:03,400 but you should also be able to give your dog a twank up the backside. 903 01:00:03,400 --> 01:00:06,520 But if you broke your stick on your dog, now that was... 904 01:00:06,520 --> 01:00:09,200 That was... That was not done. 905 01:00:09,200 --> 01:00:12,560 I dare say that over the time that farmers have been shepherds 906 01:00:12,560 --> 01:00:14,840 and using them, one or two will have been broken. 907 01:00:17,720 --> 01:00:19,280 Well, I started as a young boy. 908 01:00:19,280 --> 01:00:24,240 In those days, there wasn't the things going on in the valleys 909 01:00:24,240 --> 01:00:28,040 and the country that there is now. 910 01:00:28,040 --> 01:00:30,320 And when it was Patterdale Dog Day 911 01:00:30,320 --> 01:00:33,600 was a big day in Patterdale. 912 01:00:33,600 --> 01:00:35,480 And I think when I was a young boy, 913 01:00:35,480 --> 01:00:37,480 there was only three cars in the village. 914 01:00:37,480 --> 01:00:40,000 Now there's three cars outside some of the houses! 915 01:00:41,240 --> 01:00:42,920 It's all changed - 916 01:00:42,920 --> 01:00:46,040 not everything for the better, but a lot of it is. 917 01:00:46,040 --> 01:00:50,040 As I said before, working up here, I've worked dogs all my life. 918 01:00:50,040 --> 01:00:52,960 It's going along, taking part. 919 01:00:52,960 --> 01:00:56,120 and you meet a lot of friends that you have a craic with. 920 01:00:56,120 --> 01:00:59,200 You maybe never see them for months. 921 01:00:59,200 --> 01:01:00,760 What we're looking for with a... 922 01:01:00,760 --> 01:01:02,120 These are fell foxhounds, 923 01:01:02,120 --> 01:01:04,920 and what we're looking for - good deep chest, 924 01:01:04,920 --> 01:01:07,040 which is the engine, basically, 925 01:01:07,040 --> 01:01:11,120 and just a nice confirmation, an athletic-looking animal 926 01:01:11,120 --> 01:01:14,120 that can cover the ground like a racehorse. 927 01:01:15,080 --> 01:01:20,400 The Ullswater Foxhounds were originally started in 1873 928 01:01:20,400 --> 01:01:22,760 and have been here ever since. 929 01:01:22,760 --> 01:01:25,840 It's a part of natural life, country life, these shows. 930 01:01:25,840 --> 01:01:28,760 It isn't just about what people think - we follow trails now, 931 01:01:28,760 --> 01:01:31,880 so we're all trying to do everything 100% legal 932 01:01:31,880 --> 01:01:34,880 in order to get people out on the fells to see the hounds, 933 01:01:34,880 --> 01:01:36,720 and just think it's a marvellous sight. 934 01:01:36,720 --> 01:01:40,000 And as you can see, we've got the most wonderful scenery around us, 935 01:01:40,000 --> 01:01:42,240 that you couldn't wish to live or work 936 01:01:42,240 --> 01:01:44,760 in a more beautiful place in the country. 937 01:01:44,760 --> 01:01:48,720 Well, Cumbrian dialect originated from the Vikings. 938 01:01:48,720 --> 01:01:52,080 The Vikings came over, they went over to the Isle of Man, 939 01:01:52,080 --> 01:01:54,560 they went over to Ireland, they looked at Scotland, 940 01:01:54,560 --> 01:01:56,520 but a lot of them settled in Cumbria. 941 01:01:56,520 --> 01:02:00,320 It was kind of a mixture between the Anglo Saxon language 942 01:02:00,320 --> 01:02:03,440 and a lot of Viking words came into it. 943 01:02:03,440 --> 01:02:06,480 A few years ago, if you went to a village school, 944 01:02:06,480 --> 01:02:09,280 you would hear kids talking in dialect. 945 01:02:09,280 --> 01:02:13,600 Other words, such as, a gate is a yat. 946 01:02:14,640 --> 01:02:19,320 Er, to bake something is to byak, or a cake is a cyak. 947 01:02:19,320 --> 01:02:21,440 A ladder's a stee. 948 01:02:21,440 --> 01:02:24,680 We don't say water, we say watter, 949 01:02:25,840 --> 01:02:28,440 Ulls-watter. We talk about Ulls-watter. 950 01:02:28,440 --> 01:02:31,200 Years ago, a paper never went out of the valley, 951 01:02:31,200 --> 01:02:33,120 never mind out of the county. 952 01:02:33,120 --> 01:02:35,720 As you probably know, a lot of young people nowadays 953 01:02:35,720 --> 01:02:38,000 they don't even converse by tongue. 954 01:02:38,000 --> 01:02:41,400 They converse with their thumbs, with their own language. 955 01:02:41,400 --> 01:02:45,280 So we don't want to see the Cumbrian dialect die out, 956 01:02:45,280 --> 01:02:48,040 but another dialect might take over in its place, 957 01:02:48,040 --> 01:02:51,400 but it is getting more and more difficult 958 01:02:51,400 --> 01:02:54,440 to get people to join in the society, 959 01:02:54,440 --> 01:02:57,040 because a lot of people don't understand it. 960 01:02:57,040 --> 01:02:59,120 # Whilst the gimmers bleat and bay 961 01:02:59,120 --> 01:03:01,600 # And the lambkins skip and play 962 01:03:01,600 --> 01:03:04,880 # Tarry woo, and Tarry woo 963 01:03:04,880 --> 01:03:07,920 # Tarry woo is ill to spin 964 01:03:07,920 --> 01:03:11,360 # Card it well, oh, card it well 965 01:03:11,360 --> 01:03:15,360 # Card it well e're ye begin. # 966 01:03:17,040 --> 01:03:21,720 Our hobby, our passion together was hill walking. 967 01:03:21,720 --> 01:03:23,920 And then when my spine decided 968 01:03:23,920 --> 01:03:26,840 that it wasn't going to hold me up any more, erm... 969 01:03:28,040 --> 01:03:30,680 ..I honestly thought I'd never reach another summit, 970 01:03:30,680 --> 01:03:31,960 I thought that that was it. 971 01:03:31,960 --> 01:03:36,280 It was down...down there in the car park in my wheelchair, 972 01:03:36,280 --> 01:03:39,680 watching other people don their hiking boots 973 01:03:39,680 --> 01:03:43,480 and throwing on their rucksacks and setting off for a day in the hills. 974 01:03:43,480 --> 01:03:47,240 I mean, when we, er... When we come out on any kind of adventure 975 01:03:47,240 --> 01:03:49,120 that brings us out into the fells, 976 01:03:49,120 --> 01:03:51,400 our first port of call is an Ordnance Survey map - 977 01:03:51,400 --> 01:03:52,560 we look for bridleways. 978 01:03:54,000 --> 01:03:58,960 And the vehicle that we use is a class 3 mobility vehicle, 979 01:03:58,960 --> 01:04:04,360 er...and so it's allowed to go where any boot goes. 980 01:04:04,360 --> 01:04:06,200 But everything's based on safety. 981 01:04:06,200 --> 01:04:08,600 That's why we always have Jonathan with us. 982 01:04:08,600 --> 01:04:11,920 And, you know, it's not about sanitising routes either. 983 01:04:11,920 --> 01:04:14,600 If Mother Nature's put those stones there, 984 01:04:14,600 --> 01:04:16,000 the stones are there for a reason 985 01:04:16,000 --> 01:04:18,040 and I haven't been able to get to the top. 986 01:04:18,040 --> 01:04:21,160 We're looking at the technology that's out there now 987 01:04:21,160 --> 01:04:25,480 to be able to get people with disabilities out into the fells 988 01:04:25,480 --> 01:04:27,280 and into the mountains. 989 01:04:27,280 --> 01:04:29,200 I always talk about my wheelchairs 990 01:04:29,200 --> 01:04:30,920 as being my shoes. 991 01:04:30,920 --> 01:04:34,280 And this here - I've got my four-season boots on today. 992 01:04:35,840 --> 01:04:38,080 To be out here in the fells, it's... 993 01:04:39,440 --> 01:04:41,640 SHE EXHALES 994 01:04:39,440 --> 01:04:41,640 It's an emotion, it's... 995 01:04:42,680 --> 01:04:46,480 You've got the views - that feeling inside that is just... 996 01:04:47,800 --> 01:04:49,000 Oh. 997 01:04:49,000 --> 01:04:51,040 A word hasn't yet been invented... 998 01:04:52,080 --> 01:04:55,840 ..to express how I feel today 999 01:04:55,840 --> 01:04:57,840 with all this in front of me. 1000 01:04:57,840 --> 01:05:01,080 I'm above... I'm above some of the summits. 1001 01:05:02,440 --> 01:05:06,600 But there isn't a word that just...just goes. 1002 01:05:21,000 --> 01:05:22,680 Flight attendant Nigel Wharmby - 1003 01:05:22,680 --> 01:05:25,080 I've been on 100 Squadron now for three years. 1004 01:05:25,080 --> 01:05:28,280 It's probably my last tour of duty, having been doing this for 40 years. 1005 01:05:28,280 --> 01:05:30,880 I happen to be operating out of Leeming in North Yorkshire, 1006 01:05:30,880 --> 01:05:33,040 but I actually live at the base of Helvellyn. 1007 01:05:33,040 --> 01:05:35,320 I live in the little village of Patterdale. 1008 01:05:35,320 --> 01:05:37,800 So Helvellyn to me is my local mountain 1009 01:05:37,800 --> 01:05:39,760 that I'll climb not every weekend of the year - 1010 01:05:39,760 --> 01:05:41,560 but certainly half the weekends of the year 1011 01:05:41,560 --> 01:05:43,720 I'll be seen on Striding Edge. 1012 01:05:45,480 --> 01:05:48,320 We've actually had an aeroplane land on Helvellyn - not in my time, 1013 01:05:48,320 --> 01:05:52,440 I hasten to add, I'm not that old - but back on 22nd of December 1926, 1014 01:05:52,440 --> 01:05:56,560 a light aircraft intentionally landed on the summit of Helvellyn, 1015 01:05:56,560 --> 01:05:59,680 and then, more importantly, managed to get airborne safely again. 1016 01:05:59,680 --> 01:06:02,040 Fortunately for 100 Squadron, because we fly the Hawk, 1017 01:06:02,040 --> 01:06:04,240 unlike my previous aeroplane, which was the Harrier, 1018 01:06:04,240 --> 01:06:06,080 which could vertically take off and land, 1019 01:06:06,080 --> 01:06:08,720 I'm afraid we won't be landing on Helvellyn any time soon. 1020 01:06:12,640 --> 01:06:15,440 All of our flights require quite a lot of planning and briefing 1021 01:06:15,440 --> 01:06:18,000 before we go, so for an hour in the air, I'm probably 1022 01:06:18,000 --> 01:06:20,560 going to spend an hour and a half, maybe two hours planning, 1023 01:06:20,560 --> 01:06:22,280 and then another hour briefing. 1024 01:06:22,280 --> 01:06:23,840 The demands of low-level flying 1025 01:06:23,840 --> 01:06:26,000 depend very much on the weather on the day. 1026 01:06:26,000 --> 01:06:27,880 On a day like today, weather is really good, 1027 01:06:27,880 --> 01:06:30,280 then accurate navigation is a lot easier 1028 01:06:30,280 --> 01:06:33,360 than in a difficult weather day where there's a lot of low cloud. 1029 01:06:34,840 --> 01:06:37,640 Obviously, there are set limits in which we're allowed to low fly, 1030 01:06:37,640 --> 01:06:40,320 and as the weather comes down, the pressure on her to navigate 1031 01:06:40,320 --> 01:06:44,240 accurately becomes more difficult, particularly when you're in terrain 1032 01:06:44,240 --> 01:06:46,040 that maybe you're not familiar with 1033 01:06:46,040 --> 01:06:48,440 or where there are no margins for error - so, for instance, 1034 01:06:48,440 --> 01:06:51,400 when we're mountain flying or going through the mountains, there aren't 1035 01:06:51,400 --> 01:06:53,640 many areas in the country where we can actually do that. 1036 01:06:53,640 --> 01:06:55,560 Obviously there's the Highlands of Scotland, 1037 01:06:55,560 --> 01:06:58,400 there's the mountains of North Wales and there's obviously Cumbria. 1038 01:06:58,400 --> 01:06:59,480 For us here at Leeming, 1039 01:06:59,480 --> 01:07:01,880 Cumbria is literally only ten minutes' flying time away, 1040 01:07:01,880 --> 01:07:03,840 and so we're going to use that as often as we can 1041 01:07:03,840 --> 01:07:05,160 when the weather is fit. 1042 01:07:05,160 --> 01:07:07,680 We set up the times on target, 1043 01:07:07,680 --> 01:07:10,320 so we try to be over a particular spot on the ground 1044 01:07:10,320 --> 01:07:12,280 within plus or minus five seconds. 1045 01:07:12,280 --> 01:07:15,400 And again, depending on the weather, we might have to deviate for weather 1046 01:07:15,400 --> 01:07:17,600 and get ourselves back on track. 1047 01:07:17,600 --> 01:07:21,720 What's it like to low fly 450 miles an hour through the Lake District? 1048 01:07:21,720 --> 01:07:23,720 It's pretty exhilarating, I have to say, 1049 01:07:23,720 --> 01:07:25,560 and I've been doing this for 40 years. 1050 01:07:27,480 --> 01:07:30,640 The low-level flying is something that's a very perishable skill. 1051 01:07:30,640 --> 01:07:33,600 Low flying over level terrain is one skill, 1052 01:07:33,600 --> 01:07:35,520 but low flying through mountainous terrain, 1053 01:07:35,520 --> 01:07:38,120 where you're manoeuvring the aircraft at high G 1054 01:07:38,120 --> 01:07:41,760 around some fairly steep corners is a completely separate skill, 1055 01:07:41,760 --> 01:07:43,920 and particularly when you're flying in formation. 1056 01:08:07,840 --> 01:08:10,120 100 Squadron's role in the Air Force - 1057 01:08:10,120 --> 01:08:11,760 we're the RAF's aggressor squadron, 1058 01:08:11,760 --> 01:08:14,560 so we provide operational support to the front line, 1059 01:08:14,560 --> 01:08:18,480 primarily to our Typhoons and to our F-35 Lightnings, 1060 01:08:18,480 --> 01:08:21,160 where we act as an adversary aircraft - 1061 01:08:21,160 --> 01:08:24,680 a highly agile fighter - to conduct their training. 1062 01:09:16,280 --> 01:09:19,120 THUNDER RUMBLES 1063 01:11:38,960 --> 01:11:40,480 The scenery is diverse. 1064 01:11:40,480 --> 01:11:44,480 It doesn't matter where you go, you've got a different view 1065 01:11:44,480 --> 01:11:48,320 to have to contend with - the colours, the different seasons, 1066 01:11:48,320 --> 01:11:49,960 everything is different. 1067 01:11:49,960 --> 01:11:53,000 I've spent 20 years going around the Lake District 1068 01:11:53,000 --> 01:11:55,520 just loving every part of it, really. 1069 01:11:55,520 --> 01:11:57,000 It's really special. 1070 01:11:57,000 --> 01:12:01,280 Well, of course, once the colours come out, as they're just about 1071 01:12:01,280 --> 01:12:06,120 to emerge now, I think, and trying to get them down on the painting 1072 01:12:06,120 --> 01:12:08,200 is the challenge, of course. 1073 01:12:08,200 --> 01:12:12,920 And sometimes you get it - sometimes you don't, really. 1074 01:12:12,920 --> 01:12:16,480 I've painted the sky three or four times now 1075 01:12:16,480 --> 01:12:21,440 cos it keeps getting splattered on by the rain. 1076 01:12:21,440 --> 01:12:26,680 Actually, it makes some quite interesting patterns. 1077 01:12:26,680 --> 01:12:30,240 It's a bit difficult to keep having to hold on to your easel 1078 01:12:30,240 --> 01:12:32,760 to stop it blowing away, but we're OK. 1079 01:12:32,760 --> 01:12:34,280 We're persevering. 1080 01:12:34,280 --> 01:12:37,040 We're hardy people here in the north. 1081 01:12:54,120 --> 01:12:57,080 We do the dawn cruise twice a year. 1082 01:12:57,080 --> 01:13:00,480 We do one in spring and one in autumn. 1083 01:13:00,480 --> 01:13:02,880 They asked if I would run a photography cruise and I said, 1084 01:13:02,880 --> 01:13:05,520 "Yeah, OK, I'll do a photography cruise, but I'll do it at dawn." 1085 01:13:05,520 --> 01:13:08,720 And I suppose it was for selfish reasons as well because I wanted 1086 01:13:08,720 --> 01:13:10,000 to be out on the lake at dawn. 1087 01:13:10,000 --> 01:13:12,560 We're going to circle round and do that again, 1088 01:13:12,560 --> 01:13:13,800 so if you do want to swap... 1089 01:13:13,800 --> 01:13:18,200 In a previous life, I was a detective with Cumbria Police 1090 01:13:18,200 --> 01:13:20,480 for 26 years, police officer for 30. 1091 01:13:20,480 --> 01:13:23,080 And to de-stress from that, I started doing more walking, 1092 01:13:23,080 --> 01:13:25,080 fell in love with the scenery all over again. 1093 01:13:25,080 --> 01:13:28,160 I'd always wanted to take pictures, but I suppose life, kids, 1094 01:13:28,160 --> 01:13:29,960 and whatever else have got in the way. 1095 01:13:29,960 --> 01:13:32,480 So I bought a digital camera just to record my walks. 1096 01:13:32,480 --> 01:13:34,960 Then 2014, three years after I retired, 1097 01:13:34,960 --> 01:13:38,440 I won the UK Landscape Photographer of the Year, 1098 01:13:38,440 --> 01:13:40,040 Charlie Waite's competition. 1099 01:13:40,040 --> 01:13:42,680 I suppose, from thinking, when I retired after 30 years 1100 01:13:42,680 --> 01:13:45,560 in the police, that, "What am I going to do? My life's over." 1101 01:13:45,560 --> 01:13:47,520 And all of a sudden, I've had a second life. 1102 01:13:47,520 --> 01:13:50,040 You're going to lose the focus of what you're shooting at. 1103 01:13:50,040 --> 01:13:54,160 What I find with photography - I find that photography almost makes 1104 01:13:54,160 --> 01:13:57,600 you see the countryside again, see it through different eyes. 1105 01:13:57,600 --> 01:13:59,440 You appreciate the beauty more. 1106 01:13:59,440 --> 01:14:02,800 And I'm not one of these that goes from honeypot location 1107 01:14:02,800 --> 01:14:04,320 to honeypot location. 1108 01:14:04,320 --> 01:14:06,960 I just love the outdoors. It's not about a love of photography, 1109 01:14:06,960 --> 01:14:10,320 it's about a love of the outdoors and appreciate what we've got 1110 01:14:10,320 --> 01:14:12,520 and how important it is, what we've got. 1111 01:14:12,520 --> 01:14:16,200 And it's really... You know, it's about photographing with the heart. 1112 01:14:16,200 --> 01:14:20,720 If you feel no emotion for your subject, 1113 01:14:20,720 --> 01:14:23,240 then there's no emotion going to be in the picture. 1114 01:14:23,240 --> 01:14:27,200 Anybody who views the image isn't going to feel any emotion, erm... 1115 01:14:27,200 --> 01:14:30,680 So it's really about trying to get people to fall in love. 1116 01:14:30,680 --> 01:14:32,520 It's not thinking about leading lines. 1117 01:14:32,520 --> 01:14:34,480 It's not thinking about rule of thirds. 1118 01:14:34,480 --> 01:14:38,120 It's not thinking about any of these technical compositional aids. 1119 01:14:38,120 --> 01:14:42,200 It's about seeing something that you love that makes you shout and swear 1120 01:14:42,200 --> 01:14:43,800 and makes you want to photograph it. 1121 01:14:53,360 --> 01:14:56,640 Well, I still like to think of the Lake District as home, 1122 01:14:56,640 --> 01:15:02,040 even though I moved away at the age of 18, having grown up in Kendal. 1123 01:15:02,040 --> 01:15:04,720 So these trips, when I can manage to get up here 1124 01:15:04,720 --> 01:15:06,320 are really quite precious. 1125 01:15:06,320 --> 01:15:10,040 As I say, I grew up in Kendal, went to school there. 1126 01:15:10,040 --> 01:15:12,920 I think that's probably where I first sort of got the inspiration 1127 01:15:12,920 --> 01:15:14,920 to get involved in weather. 1128 01:15:14,920 --> 01:15:16,280 I mean, for one thing, 1129 01:15:16,280 --> 01:15:18,800 you experience an awful lot of weather in the Lake District! 1130 01:15:18,800 --> 01:15:20,520 You can't get away from it. 1131 01:15:20,520 --> 01:15:22,840 But we actually had a weather station at school - 1132 01:15:22,840 --> 01:15:26,280 I used to do the daily readings there - and from there, 1133 01:15:26,280 --> 01:15:31,160 that kind of developed the weather interest a little bit more. 1134 01:15:31,160 --> 01:15:36,640 First job - British Antarctic Survey as a meteorologist - I actually went 1135 01:15:36,640 --> 01:15:41,400 down and spent two years in Antarctica back in the 1980s, 1136 01:15:41,400 --> 01:15:45,520 which was an amazing experience, and definitely drew, I think, 1137 01:15:45,520 --> 01:15:49,800 on my days in the Lake District fells, as well. 1138 01:15:51,120 --> 01:15:55,120 After that, joined the Met Office as a weather forecaster 1139 01:15:55,120 --> 01:15:57,960 back in the mid '80s. 1140 01:15:57,960 --> 01:16:01,760 And, well, that was my career for over 30 years - 1141 01:16:01,760 --> 01:16:05,600 20 years of that as a weather presenter on the BBC, 1142 01:16:05,600 --> 01:16:09,360 doing things like the Countryfile forecast, for example. 1143 01:16:09,360 --> 01:16:12,280 Which, of course, is of big interest to people getting out and about 1144 01:16:12,280 --> 01:16:14,000 in the hills, like this. 1145 01:16:14,000 --> 01:16:16,800 It's a really, really difficult place to predict for. 1146 01:16:16,800 --> 01:16:18,960 The weather just changes so much. 1147 01:16:18,960 --> 01:16:23,640 Mountains have a really big effect on the weather. 1148 01:16:23,640 --> 01:16:26,320 They actually create their own. 1149 01:16:28,640 --> 01:16:31,240 You often hear people say, um... 1150 01:16:31,240 --> 01:16:34,160 ..in the mountains, the weather's completely different 1151 01:16:34,160 --> 01:16:35,800 in one valley to the next. 1152 01:16:35,800 --> 01:16:38,160 Um...and that's absolutely true. 1153 01:16:38,160 --> 01:16:40,320 And we can actually see it here today. 1154 01:16:40,320 --> 01:16:42,440 Er...Helvellyn, covered in cloud. 1155 01:16:42,440 --> 01:16:44,520 Looking out over there, to the Eden Valley, 1156 01:16:44,520 --> 01:16:46,280 the sun's actually shining out there. 1157 01:16:46,280 --> 01:16:47,960 I can see patches of blue sky. 1158 01:16:47,960 --> 01:16:50,120 You know, mountains are to weather 1159 01:16:50,120 --> 01:16:52,960 what a boulder is to a river. 1160 01:16:52,960 --> 01:16:55,120 It blocks the flow. 1161 01:16:55,120 --> 01:16:56,960 It's forced to go around it. 1162 01:16:56,960 --> 01:17:00,120 So just like water has to go over, around a boulder, 1163 01:17:00,120 --> 01:17:03,480 then the weather has to go around these mountains. 1164 01:17:03,480 --> 01:17:06,920 And that's what makes these sort of landscapes so fascinating. 1165 01:17:06,920 --> 01:17:09,440 On a day like today, even with all this cloud cover, 1166 01:17:09,440 --> 01:17:11,040 I'm seeing breaks in the cloud 1167 01:17:11,040 --> 01:17:14,760 as the wind just becomes that bit more turbulent. 1168 01:17:14,760 --> 01:17:16,600 We're seeing lovely light effects 1169 01:17:16,600 --> 01:17:19,280 just drifting across Ullswater there. 1170 01:17:19,280 --> 01:17:22,520 And I can see shafts of rain as the showers are beginning to come in. 1171 01:17:22,520 --> 01:17:25,600 It just... It's what makes it just so beautiful, 1172 01:17:25,600 --> 01:17:28,520 particularly in this soft autumn light. 1173 01:17:28,520 --> 01:17:31,160 I mean, if you just go a few miles that way to Ambleside, 1174 01:17:31,160 --> 01:17:33,520 the annual rainfall there is something like 1175 01:17:33,520 --> 01:17:36,040 2,000 millimetres of rain - 1176 01:17:36,040 --> 01:17:38,320 so about two metres of rain a year. 1177 01:17:38,320 --> 01:17:42,080 But then a few miles out that way, in the Eden Valley, 1178 01:17:42,080 --> 01:17:44,400 it's well below a metre. 1179 01:17:44,400 --> 01:17:49,400 So much less than half the amount of rain you get over in Ambleside. 1180 01:17:49,400 --> 01:17:53,560 And the reason for that is that most of the rain-bearing weather systems 1181 01:17:53,560 --> 01:17:56,960 that we get in the Lakes come in from the west, from the Atlantic. 1182 01:17:56,960 --> 01:17:59,240 That rain-bearing cloud comes up against 1183 01:17:59,240 --> 01:18:00,920 the western side of the fells. 1184 01:18:00,920 --> 01:18:05,760 The air is forced to rise as it comes up against the mountains. 1185 01:18:05,760 --> 01:18:09,320 As it rises, it cools, it condenses. 1186 01:18:09,320 --> 01:18:10,680 That thickens the cloud, 1187 01:18:10,680 --> 01:18:13,080 if you like, as it's rising up the mountains. 1188 01:18:13,080 --> 01:18:16,000 And then rain falling from higher clouds 1189 01:18:16,000 --> 01:18:18,680 actually strips out the moisture of the lower-level clouds 1190 01:18:18,680 --> 01:18:20,120 as it falls through. 1191 01:18:20,120 --> 01:18:21,640 And those two things combine - 1192 01:18:21,640 --> 01:18:24,160 and particularly combine here in the Lake District - 1193 01:18:24,160 --> 01:18:26,520 to provide some huge rainfalls. 1194 01:18:26,520 --> 01:18:29,000 So having dropped all that rain over that side, 1195 01:18:29,000 --> 01:18:33,320 there's not much left then to fall over this side, in the Eden Valley. 1196 01:18:33,320 --> 01:18:37,120 That's why the Eden Valley sits in what we call a rain-shadow effect. 1197 01:18:38,600 --> 01:18:41,200 Now, of course, the temperature drops 1198 01:18:41,200 --> 01:18:43,960 with altitude in the atmosphere. 1199 01:18:43,960 --> 01:18:47,920 Um...on average, it's something like a three-degree Celsius drop 1200 01:18:47,920 --> 01:18:51,200 in temperature for every thousand feet that you go up. 1201 01:18:51,200 --> 01:18:52,880 So, er...what's that in metric? 1202 01:18:52,880 --> 01:18:57,360 Around about one degree Celsius for every 100 metres of elevation. 1203 01:18:57,360 --> 01:18:59,960 Actually, we can see that happening today 1204 01:18:59,960 --> 01:19:03,480 with that flat base of cloud sitting across the fell tops. 1205 01:19:03,480 --> 01:19:06,640 Um...as you go up through the atmosphere, temperature's dropping, 1206 01:19:06,640 --> 01:19:08,800 you're getting to the cloud-base level, 1207 01:19:08,800 --> 01:19:10,360 the temperature has dropped enough 1208 01:19:10,360 --> 01:19:13,960 so that the moisture that's in the air is condensing into cloud. 1209 01:19:13,960 --> 01:19:16,880 But that also means, of course, if you set off in the valleys - 1210 01:19:16,880 --> 01:19:19,480 where, today, the temperature's around about ten degrees - 1211 01:19:19,480 --> 01:19:22,480 by the time you get to the top of Helvellyn, which is 3,000 feet, 1212 01:19:22,480 --> 01:19:24,920 you've seen a nine-degree drop in temperature. 1213 01:19:24,920 --> 01:19:28,520 So it's not that much above freezing by the time you get to the top. 1214 01:19:28,520 --> 01:19:31,440 Add in the effect of the wind-chill, with this wind today 1215 01:19:31,440 --> 01:19:35,200 being accelerated over the top of the fells, as well, 1216 01:19:35,200 --> 01:19:38,160 and you've got such a different environment up there. 1217 01:19:38,160 --> 01:19:41,120 And that's why it is easy, if you're not prepared, 1218 01:19:41,120 --> 01:19:42,920 to, er...to get caught out. 1219 01:19:42,920 --> 01:19:45,200 The conditions are so different on top of the fells 1220 01:19:45,200 --> 01:19:47,000 compared to the valleys. 1221 01:19:47,000 --> 01:19:51,280 So I've said a lot about how mountains shape the weather, 1222 01:19:51,280 --> 01:19:53,520 but, you know, to some extent, 1223 01:19:53,520 --> 01:19:57,920 the weather has shaped that mountain over there, Helvellyn. 1224 01:19:57,920 --> 01:20:01,400 The effect of the prevailing winds, the prevailing weather systems, 1225 01:20:01,400 --> 01:20:03,720 leave us with the shape of the mountain 1226 01:20:03,720 --> 01:20:08,080 that I can actually see, looking across Ullswater even today. 1227 01:20:20,720 --> 01:20:22,720 BIRDSONG 1228 01:20:51,320 --> 01:20:53,560 STAG ROARS 1229 01:21:08,480 --> 01:21:09,960 BIRDSONG 1230 01:21:23,880 --> 01:21:26,160 This is Gowbarrow Park, 1231 01:21:26,160 --> 01:21:28,800 and it is a lovely site that is located 1232 01:21:28,800 --> 01:21:31,120 on the northern shores of Ullswater, 1233 01:21:31,120 --> 01:21:35,440 just to the east of the National Trust's Aira Force woodland. 1234 01:21:35,440 --> 01:21:38,880 It's a fantastic example of one of the Lake District's 1235 01:21:38,880 --> 01:21:43,320 pasture woodlands, which is one of Britain's priority habitats. 1236 01:21:43,320 --> 01:21:47,320 This tree is a pollarded wych elm. 1237 01:21:47,320 --> 01:21:51,400 It is easily the crown jewel of the Lake District. 1238 01:21:51,400 --> 01:21:53,360 It's so special. 1239 01:21:53,360 --> 01:21:56,160 It really is an antique that sits in the landscape. 1240 01:21:56,160 --> 01:21:59,640 But it isn't its antiquity that makes it so special, 1241 01:21:59,640 --> 01:22:02,680 it's all of the life that this tree supports. 1242 01:22:02,680 --> 01:22:05,520 In particular, its lichen interest. 1243 01:22:06,720 --> 01:22:09,680 This here is known as the lungs of the forest, 1244 01:22:09,680 --> 01:22:11,640 or Lobaria pulmonaria. 1245 01:22:11,640 --> 01:22:14,400 And it is a species that you find 1246 01:22:14,400 --> 01:22:18,400 on very, very old trees in old woods, 1247 01:22:18,400 --> 01:22:21,960 and is characteristic of clean air. 1248 01:22:21,960 --> 01:22:26,200 This species is one that we have an international responsibility for, 1249 01:22:26,200 --> 01:22:30,280 which means that the UK has over 10% of the global population 1250 01:22:30,280 --> 01:22:32,440 of this species in these woods. 1251 01:22:32,440 --> 01:22:36,720 And over the years, we have seen significant declines of this species 1252 01:22:36,720 --> 01:22:38,520 across the Lake District 1253 01:22:38,520 --> 01:22:43,000 due to pollution, such as that coming from cars, 1254 01:22:43,000 --> 01:22:45,440 from agriculture and from industry. 1255 01:22:47,360 --> 01:22:51,360 Now, lichens inhabit every type of environment - 1256 01:22:51,360 --> 01:22:55,400 you can see them from the lakeshores to the tops of the mountains - 1257 01:22:55,400 --> 01:22:58,040 and they add so much colour and texture 1258 01:22:58,040 --> 01:23:01,400 and biological integrity to the world around us. 1259 01:23:02,800 --> 01:23:05,480 I feel hugely concerned in terms of 1260 01:23:05,480 --> 01:23:09,880 the increased number of visitor pressures within the Lake District. 1261 01:23:09,880 --> 01:23:12,640 These habitats are so incredibly sensitive 1262 01:23:12,640 --> 01:23:14,520 to environmental pollution. 1263 01:23:14,520 --> 01:23:17,560 However, these habitats, and the species within them, 1264 01:23:17,560 --> 01:23:20,960 are there for people to see and for people to enjoy. 1265 01:23:20,960 --> 01:23:24,480 So I'm such an advocate for people visiting these environments, 1266 01:23:24,480 --> 01:23:27,840 but it all just needs to be done so incredibly sensitively. 1267 01:23:29,720 --> 01:23:33,240 This species here is known as the sunburst lichen, 1268 01:23:33,240 --> 01:23:35,560 or Xanthoria parietina. 1269 01:23:35,560 --> 01:23:40,160 And when you start to see this one creeping into the environment, 1270 01:23:40,160 --> 01:23:44,040 you start thinking what's going on in terms of its quality. 1271 01:23:44,040 --> 01:23:49,280 Because this species here is very tolerant of nitrogen pollution. 1272 01:23:49,280 --> 01:23:52,480 And you also tend to find it in massive abundance 1273 01:23:52,480 --> 01:23:55,160 along trees that border the roads. 1274 01:23:55,160 --> 01:23:58,080 From the life that grows on these trees 1275 01:23:58,080 --> 01:24:01,440 to the trees that are situated in the landscape, 1276 01:24:01,440 --> 01:24:03,640 all of these elements of the natural world 1277 01:24:03,640 --> 01:24:05,720 have a really important story to tell. 1278 01:24:05,720 --> 01:24:07,920 But, unfortunately, most people 1279 01:24:07,920 --> 01:24:10,520 don't even know about their existence. 1280 01:24:10,520 --> 01:24:12,840 And how are they meant to care 1281 01:24:12,840 --> 01:24:15,280 and want to protect something 1282 01:24:15,280 --> 01:24:17,040 if they don't even know that it exists? 1283 01:24:21,040 --> 01:24:22,440 CATTLE LOW 1284 01:24:22,440 --> 01:24:25,040 Well, we're in a tenancy here with the National Trust, 1285 01:24:25,040 --> 01:24:28,800 and, er...obviously, this is a park 1286 01:24:28,800 --> 01:24:31,440 that they're wanting to supposedly re-germinate 1287 01:24:31,440 --> 01:24:35,520 into, you know, a bit more, you know, a little bit more woodland. 1288 01:24:35,520 --> 01:24:39,040 And cattle seem to keep the grass down, you know, 1289 01:24:39,040 --> 01:24:40,840 better than sheep, really. 1290 01:24:40,840 --> 01:24:43,000 You know, put traditional breeds on, which we have, 1291 01:24:43,000 --> 01:24:45,280 which is a Blue-Grey cow, so... 1292 01:24:45,280 --> 01:24:47,560 And then the Charolais calf. 1293 01:24:47,560 --> 01:24:52,120 I've just fetched a little bit of supplementary feed for the cows. 1294 01:24:52,120 --> 01:24:53,400 You know, it's just getting 1295 01:24:53,400 --> 01:24:56,000 that time of year now where there's not a lot in the grass, 1296 01:24:56,000 --> 01:25:00,200 so a little bit of feed there gets them content and keeps them going. 1297 01:25:00,200 --> 01:25:04,520 So it's just a nice morning to come and check on the...on the cattle. 1298 01:25:04,520 --> 01:25:07,640 So, yeah, that's what, er...we're doing this morning. 1299 01:25:07,640 --> 01:25:11,840 And then we're going to obviously go and put a wall up while we're here! 1300 01:25:11,840 --> 01:25:13,280 HE LAUGHS 1301 01:25:16,520 --> 01:25:19,240 Where we're at today is an old deer park. 1302 01:25:19,240 --> 01:25:22,880 Back in the 1600s, originally grazed by deer. 1303 01:25:22,880 --> 01:25:25,000 Up until the latter 100 years, it's been grazed by 1304 01:25:25,000 --> 01:25:28,000 the more domestic farm animals - sheep and cows. 1305 01:25:28,000 --> 01:25:29,840 Important sites like this, 1306 01:25:29,840 --> 01:25:32,840 Glenamara Park, is full of veteran trees. 1307 01:25:32,840 --> 01:25:35,040 We've removed the sheep, working with our tenant, 1308 01:25:35,040 --> 01:25:37,360 to try and get some more regeneration. 1309 01:25:37,360 --> 01:25:41,000 And it's farming and conservation working in harmony. 1310 01:25:42,320 --> 01:25:44,520 I'd say the National Trust is very important 1311 01:25:44,520 --> 01:25:48,040 to maintain the landscape, the cultural landscape. 1312 01:25:48,040 --> 01:25:51,760 The National Trust has 90 farms in the Lakes. 1313 01:25:51,760 --> 01:25:53,840 Not every day is like today. 1314 01:25:53,840 --> 01:25:57,640 We do get a lot of wind and rain, which makes the job harder. 1315 01:25:57,640 --> 01:26:00,880 Being out, you know, all day 1316 01:26:00,880 --> 01:26:02,800 putting walls up, fencing. 1317 01:26:02,800 --> 01:26:04,760 It does get a bit monotonous at times, 1318 01:26:04,760 --> 01:26:07,080 but it's days like this make up for it. 1319 01:26:07,080 --> 01:26:11,360 And, er...being outside in the countryside, it's... It's great. 1320 01:26:14,880 --> 01:26:19,920 # A distant glow, a timeless flow 1321 01:26:19,920 --> 01:26:24,720 # Of secret whispers and evermore 1322 01:26:24,720 --> 01:26:29,360 # A sight to breathe if you believe 1323 01:26:29,360 --> 01:26:33,880 # Through all his wonders there's time to live 1324 01:26:33,880 --> 01:26:38,640 # An open meadow, a distant glow 1325 01:26:38,640 --> 01:26:43,080 # It is your calling before the show 1326 01:26:43,080 --> 01:26:45,400 # It stands alone there 1327 01:26:45,400 --> 01:26:47,480 # Observing life 1328 01:26:47,480 --> 01:26:50,280 # Tall as his shadow 1329 01:26:50,280 --> 01:26:52,800 # Warm as his light 1330 01:26:52,800 --> 01:26:58,400 # The mountain sings His voice is bright 1331 01:26:58,400 --> 01:27:02,760 # A perfect sunrise to end the night 1332 01:27:02,760 --> 01:27:07,280 # A perfect day to find our way 1333 01:27:07,280 --> 01:27:09,760 # Towards the mountain 1334 01:27:09,760 --> 01:27:11,840 # Where I shall stay 1335 01:27:11,840 --> 01:27:16,320 # The top is nearly beyond this stone 1336 01:27:16,320 --> 01:27:20,960 # I'll soon be standing yet not alone 1337 01:27:20,960 --> 01:27:25,720 # I'll stand with him now We'll watch the sky 1338 01:27:25,720 --> 01:27:30,720 # We'll watch the birds as they fly by 1339 01:27:30,720 --> 01:27:33,720 # Up high... # 1340 01:27:33,720 --> 01:27:35,880 These fells are so special, 1341 01:27:35,880 --> 01:27:38,040 they simply take your breath away. 1342 01:27:38,040 --> 01:27:41,200 And they give unconditionally to us all. 1343 01:27:41,200 --> 01:27:46,320 This is a working landscape, full of traditions and old ways. 1344 01:27:46,320 --> 01:27:50,040 And if we don't keep them, we lose everything that Lakeland is - 1345 01:27:50,040 --> 01:27:53,240 a place where we work with nature and not against her. 1346 01:27:53,240 --> 01:27:57,200 This is a place of land and lives interwoven. 1347 01:27:57,200 --> 01:28:01,480 Its future is, quite simply, in our hands. 1348 01:28:06,920 --> 01:28:08,520 SHEEP BLEAT 1349 01:28:08,520 --> 01:28:10,080 BIRDSONG 1350 01:28:11,360 --> 01:28:13,040 WIND WHISTLES 181820

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