All language subtitles for Marcus.Wareings.Tales.from.a.Kitchen.Garden.S02E14.1080p.WEBRip.x264-CBFM

A year has passed on my
East Sussex smallholding.

I've been spending more time
out of the kitchen

and in the garden.

This helps me get away
from absolutely everything.

I mean, you can't not love this.

Come on!

I've had plenty of successes...

I've got a glut of ingredients
that I'm going to be sharing,

and that's a lovely thing.

..and a few failures too.

I've just been to feed the pigs,
and they're not there.

But with the help of my friends
and neighbours...

Come on, Stuart,
get your back into it.

I thought farming was just
about animals,

no-one talks about fencing.

..I'm going to bring in
more produce...

I'm going to see if I can get
some wheat in the ground.

..more livestock...

I've never seen so much poo
in a field in all my life.

HE LAUGHS

..and use every inch of my land

and garden...
Here we go.

First Wareing potato.

It's hard work, but it's worth it.

..all year round...

You know autumn's just
around the corner

when the sun goes behind the clouds.

..because I know a better
understanding of ingredients...

So much more to learn.
So many new dishes to cook.

..will lead to some
incredible new recipes...

This place is on fire. It just gets
better and better and better.

..as I discover the secrets
of a kitchen garden.

There's always an abundance of
fresh ingredients to keep me busy...

I've just clipped off all the tops
of the basil,

which then encourages all the little
baby shoots and fresh growth.

..and it's great to have
a helping hand...

Let's see if we can cover
it completely.

..but to keep
the smallholding productive,

you've got to stay on top
of all the jobs.

Oh, they've just broken off there.

Well, that's not great, is it?

Place is falling to bits.

Always summat to do.

Always.

There we go.

I'm keen to cultivate every
patch of ground I have,

and that includes the bund
at the bottom of the garden.

My plan is to create a hedgerow,

out of a lot of
tree seedlings or whips,

but first, I need to
prepare the ground.

Love these machines.

One thing I've learnt about farming
is it only works

if you can draw on
the experience of others.

So I've drafted in my gardening
friends, Rosanna and Signe, to help.

I've bought a load of plantings
from English Heritage

of all different types of
hedgerows and things.

What've we got?

Hazel. Little hazels.
Dog rose. Yes, nice.

Load of hawthorns as well.

Hawthorns are great. Crab apples.
Crab apples.

And so I thought I'd invite
you over just to get stuck in.

Yeah, OK. Why not? Yeah.

Can't do it on my own.

SHE LAUGHS

Cheeky of me, I know,

but it's not just labour
they can help me with...

..it's advice too.

Do three in a group?
Like, do three of the same?

Or three, seven, nine.
So, uneven number groups

help replicate what nature
does itself.

Let's get cracking, then. Yeah.

Just trying to make sure that this
sort of stays at soil level,

that it doesn't go too deep,
so that any of the tree that's,

like, used to be up in the air
is still up in the air.

So, Marcus, you need to tell me now

which way your prevailing wind
is coming when we're here.

Oh, easily across there.

So a key thing that will help
look after them

is where you plant the support.

The prevailing wind coming this side

gives a little bit of protection
for the whip,

but also,
the whip is pushed that way,

so it's kind of supported
better by the cane.

And putting a tube around them
will help protect them

from the animals while they
get established.

And you can see the light will
still get through these.

They might start to poke
out the side.

Before I came to see you guys,

I was about blocking
the wildlife out,

never thought I'd be putting
something like this back.

Yeah. But I saw...

..I saw a gap on my own land.

Connect this row back up to there,

and it's that little highway of
wildlife... Yeah.

..just running through. Exactly.
All the berries, the squirrels,

and all the little field mice
and whatnots.

If we continue losing hedgerows,

some of those everyday species

we just take for granted
might disappear,

so this is really, really important
work, what we're doing here.

And these hedgerows...
Oh, how we're changing.

Yeah. Well, I am, anyway.

Thanks to Rosanna and Signe's help,

we've managed to plant some
120 small trees.

Look at that. Now we're rocking.

If it all goes to plan,
we should see them grow

and form a hedge over
the next few years.

Oof.

With the morning jobs done,

I've now got time to think
about the rest of the day.

And I've decided I'm going to head
down to the coast this afternoon

and go and do
a little bit of crabbing.

I've done a little bit of crabbing
with the string and a bit of bacon,

sometimes in Southport, but also,

mostly when we ever
used to pop down to Cornwall.

I've never actually gone
and caught them in the pots,

so I want to get on a boat

and I'm going to go
and catch some crabs.

I'm off to Mersea Island in Essex

to meet father and son
Andrew and Johnny French,

who fish crabs
commercially off the coast here.

Afternoon, everybody. You all right?
Good to see you. Andrew.

You all right? Johnny. Johnny.
Got you the wrong way round.

Yeah, I'm Andrew.
Andrew. Good to meet you.

Thank you.

And today,
we're going out to collect the pots

they use to catch them in.

So tell me about Mersea.
It is beautiful.

I think so.
I think so too.

I'm biased because I was actually
born on Mersea Island. Were you?

Yeah, 73 years ago. My goodness.

How long have you been fishing here,
as long as you can remember? Yeah.

We've been seafarers from
many generations. Really? Yeah.

Andrew's now passed
the baton on to his son, Johnny,

and it's him who's
skippering the boat today.

And how many pots
have you got out there now?

There's about half a dozen there,
what we're going to get today.

How many crabs
would you expect in that?

Eight, something like that.

How do you know where they are?

Uh... On there...

We put them on there
because we mainly work on wrecks,

and we know where the wreck is,
and then we...

..we mark it in
our book here so we don't forget.

MARCUS LAUGHS

Is it potluck where you put them,
or is it just experience?

It's just experience.
It's experience. Yeah, yeah.

Can't buy experience, can you?
No. Many years of practising.

Yeah.

Andrew and Johnny fish
for crab and lobster all year round.

On a sunny day like today,
that doesn't seem like a bad life.

When you land the crab,
where do they go?

We mainly cook them
and sell them all ourselves.

Do you?
Sell them straight to the public.

If you see that pink buoy
ahead of you, that's our pots.

Oh, yeah. Yeah, yeah. I see it.

So we're not far away.

I've been cooking
with crab for so many years.

It's really exciting to finally get
a chance to see how they are fished.

So how's it work,
you grab the...the wire...the rope?

Yeah, I'm going to grab that buoy,

then pull it in through the hauler,

and then we check them
and see what's in them.

It certainly is a little bit
different from a bit of rope,

a bucket and a bit of bacon.
Yeah, yeah, yeah. Oh, yeah.

Every basket that comes up,

it's like Christmas,
you're waiting, "What's in it?"

God, you've got
a good variety in there. Yeah.

So, show me what type
of crabs we've got then. So...

We have got brown crabs
and we've got a spider crab.

So what are you looking for?

We measure, make sure
they're big enough to keep,

if not, they will
go back over the side.

They don't let go, do they?
They don't, yeah.

So this is the measurer here?
This is a measurer, yep.

Anything in there is too small?
Anything in there is too small, yep.

They're all pretty good size,
aren't they? They are, yeah. Not bad.

Once the catch is
whittled down and stowed,

it's time for an impromptu lunch...

..and no prizes
for guessing what's on the menu.

I've got some cooked here, Marcus.
Here we go.

See what you think of that.

Ooh. Good? Doesn't get better than
that. That is sensational.

I love... There's also a lovely
firmness to it as well. Mm. Mm.

Ooh, it's lovely and sweet. Yeah.

Wow.

Something really quite amazing...
Mm. ..about being on a boat...

Yeah. ..we've got a catch,
we've got some cooked crab... Yeah.

..you're cracking it on
the back of the boat... Yeah, lovely.

..and you just throw the shells
behind you. That's right, yeah.

That's good stuff, that. Mm.

Haven't got a glass of wine,
have you? No.

JOHNNY LAUGHS

I'm fascinated that this,

I consider, where I live and work,

to be the luxury of luxury items.

But yet here, it's just something
that the local community enjoys,

and I like that.
Yeah, they absolutely love it.

Going out on the boat with
Johnny and Andrew was brilliant.

It's a great day out. It was great
to get away from the farm

and come and do
something a little bit different,

and you can't get more local
than what these guys are doing.

They're landing their catch,
and they're just selling

it to the local community,

and I just think that's...
It's incredible.

Morning, all.

Back at the farm,
and inspired by my fishing trip,

I'm collecting some ingredients

to make the classic
accompaniment to seafood...

..tartare sauce.

And it's a great fish sauce,

recognised up and down the land.

Base of it is a mayonnaise.

I begin by mixing egg yolks

with mustard and white wine vinegar.

Now, we can start adding our veg oil.

Just a little drizzle at a time,

because it splits if you've
added too much at any one time.

So we give it a good whisk.

This is where you need to keep the
eggs moving.

This is a bit of a workout.

You can use a blender for this,

but sometimes, I just can't help
doing things the old-fashioned way.

Now, towards the end,

I'm starting to add

a little bit of olive oil,

and that makes it just
that little bit richer.

And always, when you're making a
mayonnaise, do follow a recipe,

because I think the quantities are
really important.

And there we go.

So that's the base.

It's nice and it's light,

beautiful and thick, delicious.

You know what,
now that I've made quite a lot,

I'm just going to put some
mayonnaise into there.

Have a little jar of my own.

That's one for the fridge.

To make my tartare sauce,

I add finely-chopped shallots,

gherkins and capers to the remaining
mayonnaise.

A little bit of chopped parsley.

Flat parsley is the herb that really
works for a tartare sauce.

That was always the herb that was
garnishing fish

in the olden days -
a little bit of parsley.

It's got that grassy flavour

that's so familiar
in a tartare sauce.

Just fold that in.

Now it's just a matter of adding
lemon zest and juice,

and my sauce is done.

Perfect. I'm happy with that.

And once it's in the jars,

it'll keep fresh in the fridge
for three days.

I can feel a fish supper coming on.

I'm paying my orchard a visit,

as I'm concerned
it's not looking its best.

This orchard has
been here for 20 plus years now.

And ever since
I've had the smallholding,

they've given us
an abundance of apples,

and they've given us a lot of fun

cutting them back,
picking them up, juicing them.

Done so many
things with this orchard.

But we are losing a few of them,
they're coming to their end.

This one is definitely on its way.

That's all it's produced all summer.

I want to preserve this orchard,

so I want to find out how
I can do that, and what I need to do.

I love this orchard and I want
it to continue way beyond my days.

I need a plan to grow new trees,

so I'm visiting
Britain's National Fruit Collection

at Brogdale Farm
near Faversham in Kent.

Set in 150 acres of farmland,
this national archive holds samples

for over 4,000
varieties of fruit trees.

I'm meeting up with David,
an expert in grafting,

who can give me some advice on
how to grow my favourite fruit trees.

So this is where the magic happens?
This is it.

This is where the magic happens.

So, what have we got?

We've got some rootstocks,
which I'll be grafting onto.

What type of rootstock is that?
Apple.

These here, that's Grenadier.

So that's the scion wood,

that's the bit you're
going to get your fruit on. Right.

Any graft, and most of the trees

that when you walk into any nursery
or garden centre and buy a tree,

it's going to be two bits,
unless it's something common native

like an oak. Really? Yes. Right.

So the rootstock is the...
That's the bit that governs

how big it's going to be.

So this one is the...
This is how big it grows... Yep.

..and this is the fruit? Yes.

Then we put the two together. Yes.

How many
varieties of these are there?

Of apple rootstock, about five.

It's hard to believe that only
a handful of root systems are used

to grow the fruit for
all our apple tree varieties.

Can I ask, like,
I know where this comes from,

where does this come from?

So is this a seed?

No, it comes from a thing called a
stool bed where they grow rootstock.

It's a vegetative
way of producing them.

They're literally
a vehicle to carry the fruit? Yeah.

Wow. OK.

Why do we do this?

The main reason we do it is
because it's got to be true to type.

That means,
you've got an apple tree at home

in your garden... Yeah. Right?

..and it's flowering.
The bees come in,

they bring pollen in,
fertilise the flowers,

and they set fruit. Yeah.

Now, that information
within the pip,

those tiny little seeds
in the middle of the apple,

the genetic information
in there is going to be different

to what's in the tree, because
the bee's come in from another tree,

which you don't know what it is,

collected the pollen
from it and pollinated your flower.

So it's injecting different
information into the fruit.

This is all news to me.

So grafting guarantees I get an
exact copy of the fruit tree I want.

Leaving it to the bees
means I could end up with anything.

Right, well,
you better show me the magic.

David's got a branch
from a Grenadier apple tree

he's going to
graft onto the rootstock.

OK. So what we're going to do

is we're going to
do a cut across there,

in between these two buds,
commonly known as nodes,

and this bit
in between is called the internode.

OK.

Like that.
OK. So that's the first cut.

Then we're going
to do a tongue in it.

And the graft is called
the whip-and-tongue graft.

Like that.

So that's the first bit.

And what we've got to do now
is the corresponding cut on here.

So you're going to do it where it's
about the same sort of thickness.

A few inches above the root,

you don't want it right down here,
you want it up higher,

but you've got to
get it the same thickness,

because if you don't,
it won't work. Right.

I'm now cutting it towards me...

..like that. Now, what we are
looking for on here is

the cambium layer. It's right here.

It's that little
darker line around the edge.

That's what we're matching up.

Then what you do
is you cut a tongue in it.

So you do it in that.

And then what you do

is you cut it to a bud

that is over here.

Now, what you've got there

is you've got this
bit at the back there,

known as the church window.

Now, what happens is,
as it grows, it heals over the top.

So...

Here's one I did earlier.

DAVID CHUCKLES

Very good.

There it is.
There's the church window.

You see it's healed over?
That's really interesting.

And I think it's a great story.
I can't wait to tell my children.

What you've just shown
and explained to me

is a lovely piece of information,
but also incredibly fascinating.

It's been a revelation
to learn how important grafting is

in maintaining
our favourite fruit trees.

It now means
I can take this knowledge away

and use it to develop
my own orchard in the future.

Back at the High Weald,

I've had an unusual call from Stuart,

my tenant farmer,

who needs
a helping hand with his rams.

I've just brought these rams
out of harm's way, if you like.

They're, um...
How would you say politely?

They've got a very high
libido at this time of the year.

OK. But we need to
give them what you'd call a ram MOT.

Right. So we've
got to check them over.

You're testing them to make sure
that they're all fit and ready to go

for when it comes to mating season?
Exactly.

Because each of these rams
is expected to mate with 100 ewes.

They need to be on tiptop form.

So what's
the testing now then...and why?

It's so important
that all of the males

that we use in our flock

are as close
to perfect as we can get. Yeah.

And by continually getting rid
of sheep that don't meet the grade,

we will have
a better flock of sheep.

How do you do that? Well, if I give
you the tape measure...

What's that for?

Well, you get measuring.
Measure what?

I'll read the numbers out
and then... Measure what?

Their testicles. What do you mean,
measure their testicles?

You think this is a joke.
Yes, I do. I mean... No, no.

So an adult sheep like these,
an adult ram,

the circumference of the testicles
should be at least 30 centimetres.

Get out of it.

I've done some
unusual jobs in my time,

but never anything quite like this.

First of all,
what you've got to do,

make sure that there's two in there.

They need to be big, heavy... Heavy.

..they want to be firm,
but not hard.

You'll know. Just get stuck in.

Do they kick? Come on.
He won't mind it, I'm sure.

This is weird.

There's definitely two.

He's all right. He's good.

These are heavy. They need to be.

If you think, if he's subfertile or,

heaven forbid, infertile,

if he's with 100 ewes
that don't get pregnant,

that is a huge economic cost.

I've measured some things in my time.

I mean,
this is practically impossible.

That's almost 13 inches. Yeah.

He's good to go, he is.
He's a good ram.

Measuring their manhood, though,

is only part of the health checklist.

So we'd also check
in the bottom eyelids, in here.

If they're very pale,
that's a sign of anaemia.

I don't want to pass that trait on.

Also, checking the teeth,
so you can see...

Ey, he's got good teeth.
..he's got good teeth.

You can see the two big
teeth are adult teeth. Yep.

They fall out just like humans'.

And you want to make sure
that they're well lined up.

And if the size of his jaw

means that his teeth
don't bite up cleanly,

he's probably going to pass that
trait on to all his daughters. Yeah.

And then when his
daughters are rearing a lamb,

if they can't eat enough grass

because their
teeth don't work properly,

then probably,
they're not going to make any milk,

and their lambs won't do very well.

I've always said
I'm keen to learn new things...

Oof. This guy's a big 'un.

38 centimetres. Great.

..and giving the rams a health check
has a certainly been an education.

My trip to Mersea
has really inspired me,

so, I have a treat in mind.

Lunch for my wife, Jane, and I,

using some crab and
home-grown produce from my garden.

I'm going to do
a little bit of brown meat pate,

sort of a
kohlrabi/celeriac-type of salad.

But using the garden, the garden
herbs, the garden flowers as well.

Come on.

Come on!

All right.

There's my beautiful garden herbs
for my salad and my crab.

So I'm going to be
cooking brown crab,

but I'm going to be
doing it two different ways.

Brown crab-meat pate,

and then the white crab meat,
which is in the legs and the claws,

I'm just going to
put those on the grill,

but I'm also going to be
serving it with a fantastic salad.

I'm making
the salad from two vegetables,

kohlrabi and celeriac,

marinated in lemon juice
with seasoning

and herbs from the garden.

And the reason why I'm getting
this on first

is because once the salad is made,

the lemon juice and the oil will

start to soften the vegetables

and just give them
just a little bit of softness.

But they will be still crunchy

and they'll still have a bite.

Top and tail.

And when you into kohlrabi,

it's got the flavour of...

It's almost mustard,

like, with a sense of pepperiness.

Just peel that down...

..and do the same with the celeriac.

Then take your peeler and shave

the vegetables into thin slices.

They have exactly the same thickness
because you're using the same peeler,

so that when
it comes to the dressing,

you've got consistency
and continuity through every bite.

The important thing about celeriac

is once it's all peeled down,

it changes colour very, very quickly.

It starts to go brown.

So before that changes colour,

just squeeze a little
bit of lemon juice over it

and that prevents it from browning.

Now, onto our kohlrabi.

The nice thing
about these two ingredients

is that you can pack so much flavour.

They carry flavour really well.

So mix them around.

Good pinch of salt.

Really good glug of oil.

Now, remember, you're making a
dressing, so get plenty of oil.

Another squeeze of lemon.

So the lemon juice,
the citrus of the lemon,

will just soften up
those beautiful vegetables.

I'm going to chop up the chives,
dill and tarragon to add in.

There we go.

I'm just going to
let that marinate...

..there on its own,

and let the garden herbs
just gently come out.

That little chives just brings out

the slight onion flavour
in the background.

Little bit of dill.
Absolutely incredible.

Now on to the main ingredient...

..the crab.

A rule of thumb for shellfish,

it's either alive or precooked.

This has been precooked. Like so.

I'm breaking it down into

the claws, legs and body...

..but you can also buy

crab meat ready-prepared.

What I'm going to do now

is make a brown crab-meat pate.

Break open the body from the shell,

hold the base with your fingers,

and with your two thumbs,

you're just going to push...

..like so,
and then the body just slips out.

So just pour off
any liquid into your bowl.

And just scoop out.

That's your brown meat...

..and it smells of crab.

You'll only ever find the brown crab
meat in the head and shell.

To turn the
crab meat into a tasty pate,

I'm popping it into
the blender with some fish sauce...

..Worcestershire sauce...

..and chopped garlic.

And to thicken, add pieces of bread.

This is what brings all of that

liquid together and makes it
spreadable.

Brown crab meat-pate.

And now, we can get on
with grilling our crabs.

Rather than just
putting that on the grill...

Because that's
almost like a sealed unit,

there's a few
little gaps here and there,

but you're not going to get the
charred flavour that I'm looking for.

So just gently break it.

Not too hard.
You don't want to go smashing down.

You just want to gently just

knock the crab, and just crack it,

like so.

Just gently opening it up, like so.

There's enough of a gap there

for the smoke to get inside.

There we go.

After doing that
with the claws and legs...

..and adding some oil...

..it's straight onto the grill.

And the good thing about this
crab is, well, it's effectively...

It's already cooked.

So what we're doing is just
warming it through and just getting

the flavours of the grill,
so that when you're eating it

out of the shell and you're sort of

biting your way through everything,

you get that lovely charcoaly
flavour, that grill flavour,

that barbecue flavour
that you're looking for.

It just makes your lunch

just a little bit more exciting.

When you start to see

the crab juice just bubbling away,

that's when we're almost there.

They're good.

There we have it.

And then just put your crab,

just basically how you like.
No particular order.

And to finish off,

add garlic flowers and fennel pollen
to the salad.

And I just love adding flavours

of the garden into everything.

Doesn't that look good?

Now for our pate which
we're going to spread onto our toast.

What I love about this is you're

using all the elements of the crab.

A few of those lovely chive flowers.

There we have it.

Brown crab, grilled pate

and a beautiful
celeriac and kohlrabi salad.

Wow. Yeah.

JANE GASPS

What...? Sorry, what's in it?

Celeriac. Celeriac and kohlrabi...

Very nice. ..garden herbs...

..brown crab... Yeah, delicious.
..grilled crab.

Very simple.

The multitude of people
that I'm meeting along the way

is starting to enrich my
thinking about food in a depth

that I've never thought before.

I would advise
more chefs to think deeply

about where their food comes from,

because the experience
that I'm going through right now is,

quite frankly,
I wish I'd done it 20 odd years ago,

because it's becoming life-changing.

That is really tasty.

Thank you.