All language subtitles for Travel.Quest.With.Bill.Ball.S02E11.CONVERT.1080p.HDTV.H264-CBFM

BILL BALL:
When you hear the name Panama,

you probably think right away
of the canal. Or maybe the hat.

Or for the college crowd,
Panama, Florida - and spring break.

But the nation of Panama
is much more than that.

With a diverse economy
and an unmatched biodiversity,

Panama is geared to become
the next great eco-destination.

For this journey,
I have three quests -

the iconic trip
through the canal locks,

spotting one of the most
sought-after birds in the world,

the quetzal,

and the pilgrimage
to see the black Jesus.

This is a great destination
with something for everyone.

So, join me today
as I explore Panama,

beyond the canal.

Since I was young,

I had an intense desire
to discover the world around me.

That hasn't changed.

Just the level of adventure.

Now, every journey has a purpose.

And each time I venture out

to explore new destinations
around the globe,

I am following my travel quest.

Panama is the border between
Latin America and South America.

It is a tiny country,
smaller than 40 of our states.

At its narrowest point,
you could drive

from the Atlantic Ocean
to the Pacific in under an hour.

You couldn't do that
in a supersonic jet across the US.

It was that fact,
along with the large interior lake,

that spawned the idea for the canal
in the first place.

Panama was once a major seaport
for the sprawling Spanish empire.

In fact, Panama City was
the first European town established

on the Pacific side
of the New World.

It would be 200 years
before Spain would establish colonies

in Pacific, California.

The first colony is represented
today by a number

of crumbling walls
and rock foundations

in an area of Panama City
called the Viejo.

The name comes
from a native village

that was here
before the Spanish arrived.

This became the base of operations
and the main trade centre

between the East and the New World
and Spain.

Panama meant,
in the local native language,

"land of abundance".

It proved so for the Spanish,
with the discovery of gold.

The most important structure
in the monument

is the tower of the cathedral.

It has been reinforced and secured,

allowing visitors to climb
its 100-plus steps

to the bell tower for the first time
in over three centuries.

It gives a panoramic view

of what was once a thriving community
of 10,000-plus.

Henry Morgan, the British privateer,
changed that when he seized the city.

Depending on the story you hear
and who tells it,

either he burned the town down
or he tried to save it

after the Spanish blew up
the gunpowder

and the flames spread
into the city centre.

The park is today
what it was nearly 400 years ago -

a place of gathering
and social functions.

It reminds us of an era.

When the Spanish ruled
a vast commercial kingdom,

the Spanish needed a route
to the riches of the East,

and the Arabs already controlled
land routes

and the Portuguese
the route around Africa.

Magellan,
sailing for the Spanish crown,

found the route around South America,

and Spain was in business.

Charles V figured a short cut
through Panama

could make his route
the quickest of all.

Unfortunately, his advisers said

no nation on earth
could dig such a canal.

Over 300 years later, the French,

fresh off their success
in building the Suez Canal,

began construction.

They wanted to build
a sea-level canal without locks,

which proved impossible.

Add to that malaria and yellow fever

and the subsequent
20,000-plus deaths,

and the project failed.

Enter the US in 1903,
taking over the French project

with mosquito abatement
and the idea to build locks

to raise and lower the boats,

and history was made.

Completing the canal in 1914,

nearly 400 years
after the first idea

was hatched in Spain,

would change the way the world
would do business.

But the canal was not actually
the first quick way

around South America.

What most people don't know is
there's actually two Panama canals -

the one that everybody's heard of,

the six locks where ships go
from the Pacific to the Atlantic,

or vice versa,

but there's a second one,
a much older one.

It's a train where the ships
on the Atlantic side

would unload their goods,
put them on the train,

and a ship on the Pacific side
would receive those goods and go on.

So, really,
there's two Panama canals.

Today, the rail runs along the canal
and into dense rainforest,

doing the transcontinental journey
in world-record time

of about an hour.

The views of the canal
from the train are impressive,

but there are two better ways
to witness the wonders of the canal -

going through it and watching
the operation from a tower

overlooking the locks.

The Panama Canal is, of course,
an undisputed engineering marvel.

But it is also probably
the best cost-saving device

that man has ever invented.

In a matter of just 50 miles,

eight to 10 hours,

a shipping line could save
hundreds of thousands of dollars

and thousands of miles of fuel.

In the end,
the canal was built to save money

and expand commerce.

It has to lift gigantic ships

with upwards of
7,000 semi-truck containers on them

over the centre of Panama 85ft

and then lower the ship back
to sea level.

This is accomplished by three locks

on each end of the Atlantic
and Pacific.

The locks are massive,

with eight-story-tall gates
that way over 700 tons.

The chamber of each lock fills up
with over 100 million gallons

of fresh water captured

from rivers emanating
from the surrounding rainforest.

It is a massive undertaking,
to say the least.

Using tugboats to get the ships
in position

and train engines
to hold it in place,

this is quite an operation.

The view from above is great,

but the only way
to really get a feel

for this modern wonder of the world

is to go through it.

This is a bucket-lister
and an adventure of a lifetime.

Going through on a small ship
allows a more intimate view

of the complex processes
that goes on at the canal.

First and foremost,
the canal is a simple operation,

depending on the law of gravity
for its basic function.

Let me explain it like this.

Both oceans are at sea level.

By definition,
the sea is sea level.

The barrier
is the interior of Panama,

which is 85ft higher
than the coasts.

You could cut 85ft down
and have a sea-level canal.

The French tried that and failed.

Or you could raise the ships up

and then lower them back down
on the other side

by a series of locks.

This was the solution
the Americans came up with,

and over 100 years later,
it still works.

First, all big and small ships
entering the Canal Zone must have

a special canal pilot
who can take control of the vessel

to ensure that it follows
all the safety rules

and stays on course

when all the ships must line up

and then go into the relatively
narrow locks.

The locks are 110ft across,

and most Panama Canal ships
are 106ft wide.

That leaves only 24 inches
on each side.

Big tankers and container ships
cannot manoeuvre that well.

So, two tugboats help push it
into position.

Once into position,

the ship is attached
to what are referred to as mules,

sort of modified train engines.

These mules do not pull this ship.

The ship moves under its own power.

They hold it in place so that
it does not hit the walls.

All I can say is it is remarkable.

The locks then do their thing
by closing watertight -

these are, by the way,
the original gates

that are over 100 years old -

and allowing the water to flow in,
raising the ships up.

This is repeated twice more

until the ship is 85 ft above
its starting point at sea level.

Once it crosses
the huge man-made Lake Gatun,

complete with crocodiles

and the prison that once held
the dictator Noriega,

the process is reversed,

and the ship is lowered 85ft
through three other locks.

This is more than enough time

to truly experience
the man-made wonder

of the Panama Canal.

With the excitement of
the Panama Canal behind me,

I was looking for more fun.

I am not one to waste
a perfectly good evening

and sit in my hotel room.

So, when I found out
that the America Trade Hotel

in the Old Town had a jazz series
at night with great restaurants,

as a starting point, I was all in.

Four nights a week,
Daniel's jazz club is rocking

to some of the best jazz groups
Panama has to offer.

And great jazz is something Panama
is getting a name for,

especially in the Old Town.

The old town of Panama
is a very special place.

It's a bit turn-of-the-century,

bit colonial and all upscale boutique
and everything in between,

all at the same time.

Like the French Quarter
of New Orleans,

there is something for everyone -

shoppers, foodies, history buffs
and bar hoppers.

This is the place to be and the place
to get a real feel for modern Panama.

Summed up, it is Panama
in a six- or seven-square-block area.

This is one of the destination areas
you cannot miss.

I would thoroughly recommend
staying at one of the boutique hotels

in the district
to give you the best feel

for the Casa Antigua, the Old City.

As the Old Town is an incredible mix
of restored

to "ooh la la" level to...

.."is that still standing?"

I asked Barefoot Panama owner
and local historian Kevin O'Brien

about the restoration process

and what the future holds
for the district.

Well, I think the future is bright.
I mean, 12 years ago,

this was Punta Mala,

one of the more dangerous parts
of the city.

10 years ago, the investing
and the money started pouring in.

Eight years ago
is when I moved here,

and you could feel the change.

Five years ago, there were bars
and restaurants opening.

And now, every week,
there's something new opening,

and the renovations...
And things are just booming.

The Old Town is a mixture
of developing and developed,

with great old churches
and historic buildings

all coming together to force
a nexus of tourism growth.

I learned Old Town was the setting
for a James Bond movie,

Quantum Of Solace,

and a movie starring a former Bond,
Tailor Of Panama,

with Pierce Brosnan.

Hollywood saw the potential,

and apparently others did,

as the price
of some of the buildings,

according to Kevin,

have gone from a few dollars
to a few million.

Rental prices and hotel rooms
are closer to Manhattan prices

than any other sections
of the town.

One of the more interesting parts
of Old Town is the churches,

and none is more beautiful
than the San Jose Church

with its golden altar.

This 17th-century altar survived
the attack on the city

by the famous British pirate
Henry Morgan.

After the destruction
of Old Panama City,

the Augustinians were given the land
where the current church sits

to build another church.

The foundation date was 1675.

According to legend,

it is said that the altar dates
to the early 1600s

and was saved from Henry Morgan's
1671 invasion by Friar Juan.

Knowing Morgan was on his way
after taking Portobelo,

Friar Juan took many
of the golden pieces of the altar off

and sank them in a boat,

knowing that he could later
recover them.

The main body of the altar
could not be taken down,

so he painted over the gold,
making it resemble wood.

When Morgan entered the church
looking for treasure,

he saw only a poor wooden altar.

Friar Juan then asked the pirate
to contribute 1,000 coins

to finish the altar.

Morgan laughed, calling Juan
a greater pirate than himself,

and he gave over the coins.

The old town is full
of such wondrous legends

and crazy stories, making it
one of those places

that is bigger than life

and more attractive
than one would imagine.

Overlooking the Old Town
is Ancon Hill.

Once part of the US Panama Zone
and off limits to locals,

the Hill is now a tourist
and local mecca.

With incredible views of
the old and new town on one side

and the canal on the other,

this is a photo buff magnet.

At the base of the Hill,

the city stretches out
in all directions.

Nearby is the restaurant zone,

where I met my friend
and local guide Gonzo.

It was time for me to learn
a little bit more

about Panamanian food.

Thank you.

Alright, so I can tell
this is a ceviche, right?

Yes.

And what is in a ceviche?

Well, this is a straight up
fish ceviche.

It'll have lemon juice,
onions and fish.

So, this is not cooked...

..but it's cooked.
Yes, exactly.

And they cook it with a...?
Lime.

A lime. And so, like, the acid
from the lime cooks it.

Exactly.

Yeah, 'cause it doesn't taste
like it's raw,

it tastes like it's cooked.

Alright, now, our next dish,
this looks like a soup.

It is.
OK.

But there's, like,
a huge something in there.

OK.
This is a Panamanian chicken soup.

We call it sancocho.

So, when you say
it's got a piece of chicken in it,

I mean,
it's like a huge piece of chicken.

Yes, but there's also...

There you can see.

This is name,
which is a starchy root.

That's good. I really like this.
This is good.

Oh, snapper. Lovely. Thank you.

I recognise everything else
on the platter except for these.

What are these?

Fried green plantains,
or patacones.

A cross between potatoes
and bananas, in kind of...

Yeah.
Alright.

It looks to me like you ordered

something that's like
a buffet on a plate.

This is called Fiesta Panamena,
or the Panamanian platter.

This is like a tamale casserole.
Oh.

It'll have some shredded chicken,
usually some olives,

sometimes raisins as well.

It kind of looks
like a paella to me.

Exactly.

The best way to describe it,
it's like a chicken paella.

Oh, OK.

The meat we have here
is shredded beef.

We call it ropa vieja,

which translates to mean
dirty laundry or old laundry.

OK, I might skip that.
I might skip that one there.

I had never thought
that Panama had a cuisine,

let alone that was so tasty.

Recharged and running on full -

eh, probably overfull -

I was psyched up to investigate
another purely Panamanian phenomenon,

the devil busses.

These very Panamanian
conveyance vehicles

are old, repainted US school busses.

And when I say repainted, I mean it.

These busses decorate the front,

often with attractive pictures
and colours.

They paint the sides
with multiple shades,

though a red streak
is almost a given.

The back, though,
is the watershed design.

All the art is aimed
to attract passengers,

since more than one bus runs a route.

In fact, it is the competition
between busses

that earned them the name devil bus.

Within a few minutes of the devils
is the most unusual attraction,

the Smithsonian Sloth
and Iguana Sanctuary.

We found our sloth
just out of the preserve

on the edge of a marine craft
maintenance building.

He was apparently making
his break for freedom.

This is a two-toed sloth,

with two toes on the front,

but like all sloths, they have
three toes on the hind legs.

The other common species
is the three-toed sloth,

with three toes on all feet.

I have thought that sloths
would make a great pet.

They eat leaves,
defecate only about once a week,

and then they descend their perch
and bury it,

and they are so slow,
they couldn't run away.

What is most remarkable
about these hanging creatures

is they are one of the most common
animals in the tropics.

It may not appear that way

since they are rarely seen
in the wild,

but that is a function
of their natural camouflage.

Though the canal has been
a major player

in Panama's development,

there was life before the canal.

The Spanish and English were locked
in a struggle for world domination

in the 1500s and 1600s.

Here at Portobelo's
Ancient Customs House,

all goods were processed and taxed.

As a growing trade centre for Spain,

it had to be fortified
from the British.

By attacking the fort by land
from behind,

rather than the Spanish-anticipated
marine assault,

it all paid off for Henry Morgan,
and the great fort fell.

The remnants of that fort
and their sea-facing cannons

can be a great site visit
for history buffs.

Nearby is another cultural gem
and second of my quests,

the Black Jesus.

Housed in a large wooden
Catholic church,

this is the religious symbol
of Panama.

Legend holds that the Jesus,
originally fair-skinned,

was on board a large commercial ship

that was forced to take refuge
in the Portobelo harbour.

Every time the storm let up

and the ship's captain gave
the sail command,

the turbulent seas returned,

forcing the vessel back
into Portobelo's harbour.

Finally, out of frustration,
the captain left the harbour,

despite the storm, and sadly sunk.

The Jesus was recovered

but miraculously had turned black,

looking more like most
of the residents of Portobelo.

Seen as a sign from God,

the statue is venerated
by Panamanians across the country.

I love culture and history,

but I also love the big outdoors,

and Panama has plenty of it.

My goal for this trip is
the dual national park area

of La Amistad.

The park,
a UNESCO World Heritage Site

and Biosphere Reserve,

straddles the border of Costa Rica
and Panama.

It is a dense, almost impenetrable
cloud forest

with both North
and South American animals

like cougars, jaguars,
monkeys, sloths

and, most abundant of all, birds.

And the king of all birds,
at least to birders, is the quetzal.

It is a long nine-plus-hour drive
from Panama City

to La Amistad.

The road is the famous
Panamanian highway

that runs from Ushuaia,
Argentina,

to Alaska.

Of course,
we will be taking a much smaller

but an interesting section

that goes from sea level
to 9,000ft in the mountains.

Just a few miles down the road
is the ongoing archaeological dig

at El Cano.

This Indian burial ground
has been studied since 1925.

Their solar calendar,
located by the dig,

shows a sophistication
that dates to 800 AD

and is reminiscent of Stonehenge.

The most interesting attraction
around the route is the main church

in Nata.

Known as
the Santiago Epistle Minor Basilica,

it is the second oldest church
in the western hemisphere.

The first Europeans here
were Spanish noblemen

that came to conquer
the farming native population.

It is said that the area
was so fertile that they found

enough food to feed an army
for a year.

They married local native princesses

and created the mixed-blood mestizos
of interior Panama.

The reason anyone comes
to the border region with Costa Rica

is to see the beautiful

but elusive quetzal.

Both males and females sport
brilliant red and green plumage,

with the males having
two long tail feathers

trailing behind.

I followed my own safari rule
that you never dedicate

a whole safari or trip
to seeing just one species.

There are plenty
of other species of endemic birds

that are found nowhere else.

We were watching some hummingbirds
when the guide began making

the quetzal call.
(COOING)

That could mean only one thing.

So, at this point, we do that.

We play it a little bit,
then we stop and listen

to see if they respond.

For a quick moment,
but one that I will never forget,

a male flew over,
and three females landed

just at the edge
of our camera's range.

They aren't incredible shots,
but they are unmistakably quetzals.

We had one more bird to see -
the endemic volcano hummingbird,

found only in the higher elevations
of this region.

Surprisingly,
we found success again,

and this time the rapid flying
jewel-tone birds cooperated

and allowed us some good views.

Nature can be unpredictable,

but with a little patience,
rewards are there to be had.

After descending the mountain,

I had enough strength left
for one more interesting visit.

On my last adventure,
I would enter Dracula's lair.

By Dracula,
I mean the Dracula orchid family.

The flowers supposedly resemble
the mouth of a dragon,

the meaning of Dracula.

Think of Dracula
as one man's collection

of Panamanian
and worldwide endangered orchids.

The collection includes
over 2,000 species.

Though impressive,

that only scratches
the orchid's surface.

Orchids are one of the largest
flowering plant families,

with over 25,000 members.

That is twice the number
of all bird species

and four times
the number of mammals.

One of the main characteristics
of an orchid

is its distinctive flower.

They have three petals -
two identical and one lip-like.

Panama is a wild and diverse country
with more going for it

than you can imagine.

From the iconic canal
to the Old Town

to the highland wilderness,

Panama is a country
with something for everyone.

I had three quests -
go through the canal,

see the Black Jesus,

and most rewarding,
see a wild quetzal.

Three big quests,
one small country,

but I was fortunate enough
to be able to do all three.

Captions by Red Bee Media (c)
SBS Australia 2023