All language subtitles for Amazing.Railway.Adventures.with.Nick.Knowles.S01E05.1080p.HDTV.H264-DARKFLiX

NICK KNOWLES: I'm travelling
the world by train

on a series of incredible journeys.

Right on cue.

There'll be spectacular scenery.

It's absolutely stunning,
I genuinely can't believe I'm here.

Somebody pinch me.

'I'll meet amazing people...'

I brought some rope
and some fruit.

'..Who push me to my limits
in extraordinary places...'

'..and show me astonishing sights.'

NICK CH UCKLES

Oh, my word. Look at that.
I'm holding a piece of real artwork.

That's ridiculously good!

I discover incredible feats
of engineering.

TRAIN HORN BLARES

I'm feeling this might be
another switch back.

And I'll go beyond
the tourist trail

to find out what life's like
along the track.

I'm very rarely stuck for words,
but I have to say,

this is one of the most
gobsmacking places I've ever been.

Skol, everyone.

These are my amazing
railway adventures.

So, sit back, put your feet up,
and enjoy the ride. All aboard!

It's just so much fun!

Today, I'm in Alaska,
the largest of America's 50 states

and, by the way, the coldest.

I'm here to travel on the Alaska
railway's Aurora Winter Train.

'I'll explore
awe-inspiring natural wonders...'

I expected to be on a glacier,
but...

We're gonna get
right in the glacier.

NICK LAUGHS
I'm walking IN a glacier.

'..Meet those embracing
an alternative way of life...'

We love the adventure,
and there's something about

scaring the crap out of yourself

that makes you appreciate life
a little bit more.

'..And be pushed to breaking point.'
NICK GRUNTS

NICK GROANS

I'm out! I'm done!

HE GROANS

While in the east of Alaska,
dawn is breaking,

in Anchorage,
the state's largest city,

it's still dark and it's -6C.

Very chilly!

My train journey begins here,
and it's an early start.

TRAIN HORN BLARES

HE LAUGHS

Wow! Made me jump out of my skin!

It's 7:30am, and if I wasn't awake
already, I certainly am now.

All aboard!

CHEERING

I'm going to be
travelling over 350 miles

on the Alaska Railroad.

Leaving Anchorage behind,
my journey will head north,

navigating through
the vast Alaskan wilderness

before arriving in Fairbanks.

HORN BLARES

And we're off!

Ahead of me
is an epic 12-hour train journey,

giving me plenty of time

to get better acquainted
with my surroundings.

Big, wide carriages,
comfortable seats.

Reclining seats!

Time for a tour of the train.

There's two baggage cars
behind us and in front of us,

and there's two carriages
for people. Come and have a look.

Big, steel doors on these.

And into
the second passenger carriage.

I think we should...

It's unusually wide, isn't it,
by European standards?

Big, wide carriages. Very bright.

Still quite dark outside.
The sun's starting to come up.

Train's quite full today.

During the winter months,

this South central region
experiences short days

with around six hours of sunlight.

TANNOY: Everybody who has made
a reservation for breakfast,

please make your way
to the dining car.

Breakfast on board
is a local delicacy,

a long-time Alaskan staple.

Let's have a crack
at this reindeer sausage, shall we?

More like a sort of bratwurst
or a hot dog sausage, really.

Very dense.

Quite smoke... smokey.

Nice, though. I mean...

Quite tasty, actually.

What a view
whilst you're having breakfast.

The urban sprawl of Anchorage
has quickly transformed

into a magical snowscape.

And as the train winds its way
through the Alaskan countryside,

I'm transfixed by the snow-peaked
Chugach mountain range

and surrounding icy plains,

home to some of Alaska's
most eye-catching animals.

I just saw a moose.
How cool is that?

After 45 miles and almost an hour
and a half into my journey...

...the train arrives
at my first destination.

So, this is Was ill a.
It's actually not a station.

They just stop by the sidewalk.

In fact, it blocks a road here
whilst the train's there.

An inconvenience perhaps
for the morning commuters,

but good news for me.

I'm leaving the train at Was ill a
to access a natural wonder

that is sure to be high up
on any Alaska bucket list...

...the Mat an us ka Glacier.

Formed tens of thousands
of years ago

during the last ice age,

the mighty Matanuska
is a four-mile-wide valley glacier

covering an incredible 27 miles
from its head to its toe,

and it's one of the coolest places
I'll ever visit.

And when I say cool...

Trying to get some warmth back
into my hands.

Only been here two minutes.
It's absolutely freezing.

Temperatures around here
can fall below -15C.

I've got several layers
of thermals on to keep the cold out.

I'm carrying these little
hand warmers inside my gloves,

and I've stuffed a few
down my boots as well.

And in order to walk up on the ice,

I've got these crampons or cleats.

That's me all set, ready to go.

My first-ever glacier,
and I'm looking forward to it.

'And leading the way is my guide.'

Hey, how's it going?
Welcome to the Matanuska Glacier.

My name's Chris.
Nice to meet you, Chris.

'And before we depart,
I have one very important question.'

I can't decide whether to call it
a "glass-ier" or a "glay-cier".

I say "glay-sher".
"Glay-sher".

I'm gonna go with "glay-sher", then,
if that's how you say it.

Are you gonna drag me out
on this sleigh?

Yeah, yeah, we're gonna take you out
right onto the ice.

TO TUNE OFjlNGLE BELLS:
# Riding through the snow

# In a one-Skidoo open sleigh

# I'm freezing my bits off
I can say. #

Before we reach the glacier,
we take an unexpected stop.

There's a beautiful
short-tailed wildcat there.

About the size of a labrador,
maybe slightly smaller.

Beautiful animal.

He seems happy with us
being this far away.

But I don't think he wants
to come any closer.

'Back on the sleigh,
and we continue to speed through

'the breathtakingly beautiful
frozen scenery.'

'As soon as we arrive,

'the sheer majesty
of this ancient ice flow

'instantly takes my mind
off the icy temperatures.'

How beautiful is this?
Stunning, isn't it?

'The Matanuska is one
of the most accessible glaciers

'in North America, but that doesn't
mean this is gonna be easy.'

I expected to walk
ON a glacier, but...

We're gonna get
right IN the glacier.

I'm walking IN a glacier.

'At every turn, I need to be wary

'of the hidden dangers
that lurk beneath my feet.

'Luckily for me,
Chris is on hand to keep me safe.'

Are there crevasses
I need to worry about?

Once we get up a little bit further,

we do have
some pretty big crevasses.

OK, I'll stay right behind you.

And what about the cracks
I'm seeing down here? This line...

Everything out here
is constantly moving.

In the top 300ft, we're in
the brittle layers of our ice,

so you get a lot of fracturing
and stuff like that.

Once you go below the 300ft mark,
the ice is actually plasticised

and flows like honey or molasses...

Does it?
"will not fracture or crack.

It's impossible.

There's a lot more to the glaciers
than I thought there was.

Not just a lump of ice.
It's almost alive.

'But sadly, like most of Alaska's
thousands of glaciers,

'the Matanuska is retreating.

'That means they're melting faster
than new ice forms.

'Glaciologists generally agree
that climate change has increased

'the rate at which glaciers
are disappearing,

'impacting water levels
and disrupting normal patterns

'of ocean currents.'

Why are glaciers important?

The run-off from those glaciers
going out into the oceans

literally regulates the salinity
of the oceans worldwide.

'The reason for this
is that a huge influx of freshwater

'would disrupt the natural flow
of the ocean.'

If our glaciers here in Alaska
were to dry up,

it would turn everything
into one big dead sea

because salinity levels
would raise so high.

Wow.

'My eyes have been
well and truly opened

'to the beauty and complexity
of glaciers.

'The uncertain future
of places like this,

'and what it means for the planet,

'makes my experience here
all the more profound.'

I actually thought ice was ice,
and, "What's the big deal?"

I never expected
to be so moved by it.

It's such a beautiful experience.
Thank you very much.

Ah, you're very welcome.
Come back and see us again.

Yeah.

'Still to come, I join an army
of rail fans to save a war hero...'

All of us are here
for the same reason.

We wanna see it run.

...and dive into the remote
Alaskan wilderness...

Hello.

...to meet the family
who call this place home.

What about the dangers?

The bears are bigger
than an SUV out here.

Really?
They're huge.

NICK KNOWLES: I'm in Alaska,
heading north

on the simply stunning
Aurora Winter Train.

Before I leave Was ill a
to continue my epic journey,

I'm meeting an army of rail fans

who are dedicating their lives
to an iron warhorse.

Literally yards from the track
that's carrying our train

is another train.

See if you can work out
what it's called.

Yeah, Engine 557,

and it's in a shed
cos it's being restored.

Come and have a look.

Engine 557 is one
of a fleet of steam trains

designed by the US Army
during World War ll,

and it's quite simply awe-inspiring.

Wow.

Hello, sir.
Nick, Pat Durand.

I'm the President of
the Engine 557 Restoration Company.

I wanna welcome you
to the engine house.

Wow, what a beast. This, not you.
THEY LAUGH

'Patrick Durand
and his troop of volunteers

'are fighting to make sure
this engine and its story lives on.'

These were built specifically
for the army to go to war.

Of the 2,120 of these built,

only 18 of them
stayed in North America.

These impressive locomotives were
used to transport military hardware

to help the Allied war effort.

The majority were deployed
to Europe and North Africa,

but Engine 557 was sent to Alaska

to help handle the huge increase
in freight movements.

So, this was the way to get
materials and people up and down?

From shore
to the interior of Alaska.

After the war, many of these engines
were sold for scrap.

Engine 557 survived,

sent to a museum
in Washington state,

but returned to Alaska in 2012

on the condition that it would be
restored to its former glory.

What is it that you love
about this engine that you would

put yourself out so much
to get it back running again?

All of us are here
for the same reason.

We wanna see it run.

We wanna roll it
out the door in steam.

It gets emotional.
HE LAUGHS

'To help get this US Army veteran
back in service,

'I'm joining Pat's brigade,

'working alongside fellow comrade
Paul Dalleska to add a thread

'to a pipe for the brake system.'

You have to push the head
into the pipe...

TOOL CLICKS
..and get the chief cutting.

So, once you've got it on,

even an idiot like me can do it,
presumably?

Uh, yes.
Thanks.

This is actually...
NICK PANTS

...quite hard work,
but weirdly satisfying as well

because... I'm making something

that will end up
as part of a steam train.

There we go.
All right.

'Once my thread work is done,

'Paul screws it on
to the front of the engine.'

Ancl then this goes
right up in like this.

If you could grab that ring and
just start threading it on there.

There we go.
Ancl there it is.

'The love and enthusiasm
on display here

'has reminded me
of what makes trains so special.'

See this little smile?
HE CH UCKLES

I'm old enough
that when I was a kid,

my dad used to take me
and my brother and my sisters

up to the local railway station.
There was a bridge over the top,

and there were occasional steam
trains that went right underneath.

We'd all get enveloped in steam.

And actually, doing this,

building something
to go on a steam train,

has woken up all kinds of memories.

It's gonna take a while
to wipe the smile off my face.

'As my train departs...'
TRAIN HORN BLOWS

'..| receive a friendly send off
from the Engine 557 troops.'

ANNOUNCEMENT: Back on the rails
right now.

At over 660,000 square miles,

Alaska is by far
the largest state in the US -

six and a half times
the size of the UK.

The completion
of the Alaska Railroad in 1923

opened much of this state up
for the first time.

With over 350 miles of track
between Anchorage and Fairbanks,

this railway carries over
half a million passengers each year,

many of them tourists.

Morning, I just wanted to find out

why you were
travelling the train today.

It's a beautiful place,
beautiful place.

So, what do you think
of the journey so far?

It's wonderful.
Love it.

What do you like about it?

The views.
It's so serene.

Like, it's just so untouched
by everything.

'After 110 miles,
we approach Talkeetna,

'the start point of
an exceptional stretch of railway.'

It's just so vast,
mountain after mountain,

river after river, huge tundra.

For the next 58 miles between
Talkeetna and Hurricane Gulch,

there are places
where the nearest highway

is around ten miles off.

The only way to get here is by rail.

One of the things
that makes this train extra unique

is you can ask to stop anywhere.

They know people are out here
and rely on the train service.

Where once they were common,

this is one of the last remaining
flag-stop railways in the US.

'That means passengers can make
a request stop wherever they need.'

Thanks.

Is that everything?
Yep.

That's all.
OK, great to meet you.

Remote areas like this
have become a magnet for people

who want to live sustainably,

relying on themselves as far
as possible for food and shelter.

For them,
this rail service is a lifeline.

273, that's the marker coming up
on where I'm getting off the train.

BRAKES SQUEAL

HE GRUNTS

So, here we are,
literally in the middle of nowhere.

This is where I've requested a stop,

because I'm told the people
that live off-grid

are up this pathway here,
some distance into the woods.

So, time to set off, I guess.

This is nuts!
There's barely a trail to follow.

There could be bears out here.

Oh, there it is.

Can you see it
through the trees there?

H ello?

Hello? Anybody home?

Hello.
Taylor and Anna?

You found us. Welcome.
Yeah.

NICK LAUGHS
Welcome.

'Taylor, Anna, and their two
young children were city-dwellers,

'but now live off the land
in the wilderness full-time.'

First, I need to cut a tree down.

Wanna help me out with that?
I gotta get some firewood.

Yeah, whilst I'm cold,
I might as well stay cold.

OK. Yeah, we gotta do that.

How long you been out here?

I've been building
for about two years out here,

for about nine months full-time.

CH Al N SAW REVS

There we go.

'Taylor makes his living
chopping and selling wood,

'and single-handedly made
the family's cabin.'

You know, this was my first time
I ever built anything, so...

Is it? Good job.

I hardly knew how to use a chainsaw
a few years ago.

Was that part of the motivation,
then, to actually live off the land

and be part of the land?
Yeah, it's just something...

As a kid, you dream
you wanna have a log cabin

and live in the woods.

All right. Let's get this cut up,
shall we? OK, sounds good.

'Despite having access
to a generator,

'the family choose
to use it sparingly.

'This is one of five trees
Taylor will chop and split up today,

'Providing just enough fuel
for cooking and heating.'

Nice.

NICK GRUNTS
Beautiful.

Lovely job. Right.

Hello.
Hello!

Oh, you guys got some firewood.
Awesome.

Got you some wood, honey.
Who we got here?

Brady.
This is my son.

Hello, Brady, nice to meet you.
How are you?

My daughter, Madeline.

Hello, Madeline, how you doing?
Do a little fist pump?

Well, this is amazing.
Thank you. Thank you.

What's the best thing
about living out here?

Mm, I like the snow.

You like the snow?
Yeah.

What's night like,
can you see a lot of stars?

Yeah, yeah, a lot of stars,
northern lights.

Kitchen over in the corner there,
I can see that.

That's, you know... You got
everything you need, I suppose.

'When it comes to mealtimes,
they regularly hunt moose

'and fish for salmon and trout,

'but still buy food supplies
when needed.

'On the menu today,
a delicious moose chilli.'

So, let's get serious for a minute.

What if there's a medical emergency?
You're a long way from anywhere.

Oh, helicopter pads.

So, our driveway's big enough
to land a helicopter.

Our neighbours
have a big enough spot,

and at the top of the hill,
we have another spot.

What about the dangers?
Cos there are bears around here.

You seen bears here?

Yeah, they do.
They can casually come through.

You'll find them.

The bears are bigger
than an SUV out here.

Really?
They're huge.

Ancl we love the adventure,

and there's something about
scaring the crap out of yourself

that makes you appreciate life
a little bit more.

Anything you miss about the city?

No.
No.

When I go to the city,
I miss being up here.

I can protect my family
better out here

than I could in the city.
Yeah.

The unknowns are minimal.
I mean, you know what's out here.

You learn how to handle it.

Guys, I'm not sure I could
live the life that you're living...

but I admire it.

And I'd like to dip into it
every now and again.

Well, you're always welcome.

Thank you for inviting me into...
For sure.

...what I know is your private...
very private life out here.

Yeah, for sure.

'Taylor and Anna are surrounded
by pristine wilderness.

'For their family,
this lifestyle works.

'Everything they need
is right here.'

People talk about being off-grid,

but this is about as off-grid
as you'll ever get.

And part of me wants to stay here...

but not all of me,
so I'm going back to the train.

'Coming up, I'll attempt
to flag the train down...'

I've got myself a little
white towel, and apparently,

if I wave it like this,
they should stop.

If they don't,
we're all gonna be very cold.

'..And meet
Alaska Railroad royalty.'

Didn't they give you
some kind of special award?

Yes, they did,
the gold nugget switch key.

That's great. What is that a key to?
To the executive toilet?

That's probably it.
THEY LAUGH

NICK KNOWLES: This is
the Aurora Winter Train

travelling north
through the heart of Alaska.

'I'm currently track side in the
middle of the Alaskan wilderness.

'To continue my incredible
rail adventure, believe it or not,

'I actually have to
flag the train down.'

Right. Well, I'm hoping the train's
gonna be along any minute now.

TRAIN HORN HONKS

Right on cue.

And I've got myself
a little white towel,

and apparently, if I wave it
like this, they should stop.

If they don't,
we're all gonna be very cold.

How you doing?
Great to see you.

Thank you, sir.

NICK GRUNTS
Wow.

'I've never experienced
anything like this before.

'This is so much more
than your regular train service.

'And for the many tourists on board,

'this captivating ride
is a once-in-a-lifetime journey.

'But one passenger's life
was changed forever

'after they first rode this line
almost 40 years ago.'

John?
Hey_

Nick.
Hey, pleasure to meet you.

Nice to meet you.

You're the man
when it comes to Alaska Railways.

'I am in the presence
of Alaska Railroad royalty.

'John Combs is officially
the line's number-one fan.'

Are you from round here?
Well, I'm from Ohio.

That's... That's a long way away.

Yes, but my wife and I
are big travellers.

We came up in 1986.

We took the railroad
from Anchorage to Denali.

It left a big mark on both of us.

'After john's first trip
on these rails,

'he set up one of the first
and best-known unofficial websites

'dedicated to this train.'

The website has things
like rail fan pictures, news,

historic items, everything.

It's a lab our of love for me.

'Here in Alaska,
his efforts are appreciated

'and he's a celebrity.'

Guards recognise you,

people know who you are
when you come on the train.

How many times
you travel led this rail line?

I think this is trip number 16
for me.

And actually, for train buffs,
I love the fact that,

when you look at the engines,
they're huge, powerful engines.

You've got
those 4,000-horsepower jackhammers

just going down the line,
and there's a pair of them up there.

Ancl just the feel, the force,
the power of it,

is just really incredible.

It is
a life-transforming experience.

Didn't they give you
some kind of special award?

Yes, they did,
the gold nugget switch key,

which is engraved with my name.

So, man, that was just,
like, a confirmation that

I'm part
of the Alaska Railroad family.

That's great. What is that a key to?

To the executive toilet?

That's probably it.
THEY LAUGH

That's amazing.
That's an amazing thing. It is.

Well, I'm loving
the train journey so far.

Lovely to meet you,
with all your knowledge, thanks.

'After six hours and 170 miles,

'I reach the halfway point
of my journey.'

Marking it, an engineering wonder,

the spectacular
Hurricane Gulch Bridge.

Completed in 1921,

at 918 feet long and 296 feet tall,

it's the longest and highest bridge
on the Alaska Railroad.

As the train rides over
close to 1,000 tonnes of steel,

my carriage slows to allow tourists
to enjoy the icy vista

before moving slowly on.

Wow, that really is something,
isn't it?

It's a beautiful view.

BELL DINGS,
TRAIN HORN BLOWS

On the other side of the bridge,

the train crosses
into the state's central region,

known as Interior Alaska.

This is Athabascan territory.

They are the Native Alaskans
that live throughout this area.

More than one in five Alaskans
are at least partially indigenous,

a higher proportion
than in any other US state.

The government recognises
229 Alaska Native entities.

Of those, Athabascans are one.

Calling themselves Den'a,
meaning "the people",

they practise respect
for all living things.

So, I wanted to meet them
and find out a bit more

about their culture, and I'm told
there's somebody who can teach me

one of their sort of
traditional arts.

So I'm gonna go have a go.

I've been invited
to this Native art centre

to join a class led by
indigenous sculptor Dakaxeen Mehner

and renowned Athabascan artist
Kathleen Carlo-Kendall.

Hello, Kathleen.
Hello.

I'm Nick.
Hi.

Nice to meet you.
Welcome.

'Native culture is celebrated
in Alaska,

'and this centre has been teaching
Athabascan woodcarving techniques

'since 1965.

'And I'm learning
how to carve a mask

'traditionally used
during Native ceremonies.'

So, you wanna work
from the outside of the log down,

so we can just start
at the very bottom,

taking a little bit of material out.

OK, so get the thing up on its end.

Try to get the bark off,

get a little bit of a shape
in there.

According to some people,
it's more like using... a hammer.

I've used a few hammers in my day.

So, when we get into the detail,
we start using the crook knives.

It's got a nice little curve on it,

kind of model led
after the beaver's tooth

that was originally used.

Athabascan people
have much stronger wrists than I do.

It's really quite a stress
on the wrist here, isn't it?

You can hold it like this, too.

'In traditional Native societies,
men were woodworkers

'and women skin sewers
and basket makers.

'Kathleen was one of the first
to break with this custom

'and has been carving
for over 45 years.'

It's usually been a man's job.

Yeah.
There's never been women.

'Today, Kathleen is one
of Alaska's leading sculptors.

'Her masks represent humans,
spirits and animals,

'and go beyond conventional shapes
and styles.'

That's one of your pieces there,
is it?

Yes.
So, what's that piece about?

I'm calling it my transitional piece

because it's about transitioning
into the spiritual world.

'Kathleen travels to remote
communities to teach her skills.'

Are there women following in your
footsteps now, more women doing it?

Oh, yeah.
See, that's great.

That's really a good way to
make sure that the culture survives.

You're inspiring
the next generation.

I think I've gone too literal.
You see, I'm looking at yours.

I think yours is...

There's an artistic interpretation
of a face,

and there's, you know, passion
and colour and shape and expression.

Oh, yeah.

Oh, yeah,
there's the eyes and mouth.

You're doing good.

It's been a real joy to meet you
and see your work...

Ah, yeah, thank you.
..and chat with you.

Thank you very much.
Thank you.

'Back on the train, and I'm heading
towards my final destination.

'But before I arrive...'

Hey. whoa!

'..|'m left in a spin after
the locals give me the run-around.'

No, don't walk away.
Bye.

Literally, don't... don't walk away.

I... I can't...
NICK LAUGHS

Ah!

'And I visit the wedding chapel
made entirely out of ice.'

I had to stand here for 30 minutes,
and I did get cold feet.

THEY LAUGH

Officially got cold feet
at your wedding.

Officially, officially.
That's very funny.

NICK: I'm riding on a breath-taking
train journey through Alaska.

Every twist and turn
brings a new discovery.

It's beautiful, isn't it?
It's like a winter wonderland.

The next leg of my journey
sees my train pass through

one of the state's
eight national parks,

the iconic Denali.

It's a truly blissful landscape
as well, isn't it?

It's just everything
that's going by.

I see mountains in the background
here, incredible.

This park is made up
of 6 million acres

of untouched wilderness
and abundant wildlife.

Its name derived
from its centrepiece,

North America's tallest mountain,
Denali,

an Athabascan word
meaning "the high one".

A 20,310ft peak
with a controversial history.

A century ago,
it was renamed Mount McKinley

after the 25th US President.

By the '70s, a campaign was underway
to reinstate its original name.

Forty years on, the battle was won,

and now it's Denali once more,

a name also shared by
a very interesting group of locals.

Right, I'm off to see
the Denali Destroyer Dolls.

They're... Well, they're...

Do you know what? It's easier
to show you than to tell you.

'Despite leaving the train behind,

'I'm still going
to be riding around a track.'

So, this is roller derby,

or roller "durby",
as they actually say it here.

And it's a kind of cross
between Rollerball,

if you ever saw the old movie
from the '70s,

and sort of rugby on skates.

HE CHUCKLES

This high-octane game was invented
in Chicago in the 1930s.

Today, it's one of the
fastest-growing sports in the world,

offering sociability
and confidence building

and an activity
that prides itself in inclusivity.

Now, I can't roller-skate at all.

And when I say I can't roller-skate,
I mean I really can't.

'Teaching me the basics,
team captain Amber Champagne

'and club secretary Janine Hearne.'

Hello.
Hello. G'day.

So, you're Amber and Janine,
is that right?

That's right.

But you've got other names,
haven't you?

Yep, so, you know,
you leave your real self outside,

and on the track,
you have your alter ego take over.

Mine's Giggles.

So, Giggles is
a slightly manic character?

Yeah, Giggles the clown.
Right.

The very creepy clown.
The very creepy clown.

And what's yours?
My derby name is Anita Smash you.

You need to smash me?
I need to smash you, yeah. Wow.

'Having an alter ego
is just one aspect

'that makes this sport so unique.

'Not to be left out,
I've been assigned a new identity.'

"Nick Rage".

HE LAUGHS

"Nick Rage". Do you know what?

It's more likely to be
"Nick slightly embarrass himself".

THEY LAUGH

WHISTLE BLOWS

'Roller derby is a full-contact game

'in which two teams of five
skate around a track,

'earning points by helping
one member of their team

'lap members of the opposition.

'And it's not
for the faint-hearted.'

OK, here we... here we go.

Just keep your feet straight.
We'll just roll you.

Hey. whoa!

You make it look so graceful.

THEY CHEER

I have never felt so ridiculous
in my life.

I'm like a...
Well, how are you feeling?

...a baby albatross or something.

I dunno, Nick, your derby future is
not looking strong, I have to say.

That's it.
Good luck.

Er, no, don't walk away.
Bye.

Literally, don't... don't walk away.

I... I can't...

Ooh!

'But I'm not done just yet.

'It turns out that I am good
for one thing...

'target practice.'

HE PUFFS

CHEERING AND APPLAUSE

HE WHEEZES
Do your worst.

HE WHEEZES
AND COUGHS

Oof!

Ooh!

Ah-ah!

Wow. I'm out. I'm done.

Ooh.
THEY CHEER

Ooh!

'Despite the pain,
I can see the appeal,

'and it's clear this group
has a lot of fun.'

Roller derby has been labelled
as the original girl power,

with a reputation
for empowering participants,

being inclusive and providing
a place of friendship and support.

What do you like about it?

Makes me feel like a strong,
independent woman.

It's a game for everyone.

You don't have to be
a certain body type,

certain height or whatever.

I feel comfortable
with all of these women.

For me, it's family.
Like, this is my family.

'There's a really strong feeling
of togetherness here,

'and despite my skating ability -
well, lack of it -

'I've been warmly welcomed.'

We are presenting you
with the MVP award for courage,

for coming and getting hit
by all of us ladies.

Oh, I get a lion award for courage!
SHE LAUGHS

I shall treasure it.
Thank you very much. Thank you.

THEY CHEER

Thank you, everybody,
that's amazing.

'All that rolling around
has made me hungry.'

TRAIN HORN BLARES

'As night falls,
I'm back on the train just in time.'

So, I went for the veggie gumbo
for dinner. Very nice.

Last part of the journey's
in darkness,

and next stop is Fairbanks,
where I get off.

After an epic 12 hours
and over 350 miles,

I reach my final destination.

BRAKES SQUEAL

Well, this is the end of the line
for the train.

It's Fairbanks, which is known
as "Golden Heart City"

after a gold rush that happened here
in the early 1900s.

It's not the end of the line for me,
though.

There's a few more things I want
to do, and this is my launch point.

This is probably
the coldest city in North America,

with a record low temperature
of -54 degrees centigrade.

I'm heading out of town
north-east of Fairbanks

to marvel
at a man-made masterpiece...

the world's largest
year-round ice museum...

...sculpted by world
ice-carving champions,

Steve and Heather Bryce.

'And Steve has come
to show me around.'

Mr Ice.
Yes, yes.

I'm excited to see this, so lead on.

Wow! Steve, this is extraordinary.

Well, thank you.

'More than 1,000 tonnes of ice
and snow are on display here.'

You got a castle!

Ha! There's an...
There's an actual igloo in here.

This is our Aurora Ice Bar
right here.

An entire bar!
Chairs, services to serve drinks.

Can you get a drink at this bar?
You sure can.

'Between Steve and his wife,

'they have 31 world
ice-carving championship titles,

'and this museum holds
a special place in their hearts.'

This right here
is the wedding chapel.

This is where, actually,
me and Heather did get married.

NICK LAUGHS
This is amazing!

I had to stand here for 30 minutes
and I did get cold feet.

THEY LAUGH

Officially got cold feet
at your wedding.

Officially, officially.
That's very funny.

'All these jaw-dropping sculptures
are carved on site

'in the couple's workshop.'

Ah, I need some help making
some stuff, if you'd be up for it.

'His latest captivating creation
is a set of decorative pillars

'to support the museum's banisters.'

I'm starting with a block of ice
that has a rose in it.

Would you like to carve it for me?

Oh, go on.
I'd love to have a go at it.

STEVE LAUGHS
I'd love to have a go.

I have it locked to where
we're just gonna go straight down.

We're gonna turn it on right here.
MACHINE WHIRRS

'My wood-sculpting skills
are questionable,

'but luckily for me, Steve has
set this ice-carving machine

'to make life a lot easier.'

A good speed?
Am I going down slowly enough?

You're good.
That's the perfect speed.

'Following Steve's template,
the pillar starts to take shape.'

So, I'm keeping to this curve.
Yes.

And that's digging ever deeper
into the ice.

Yep, and it's gonna
make a perfect surface.

OK, we're getting close
to the end here.

Now straight down. Perfect.

There you go.

Awesome.

'To show off the frozen rose
inside the pillar,

'Steve wants me to heat the surface
of the ice

'to make it crystal clear.'

You sure you're happy for me
to do this?

I'm a little nervous, but yes.
THEY LAUGH

Me, too.
Yeah, give her a go.

OK. Let's start it up.
You bet.

Perfect.
There we go.

Ah, look at that.

There you go.

That's magical!
Isn't that nice?

That's incredible. Look at that!

STEVE LAUGHS
How pretty is that?

Ancl that's the finished product
right there.

That's fantastic.
I feel like I should celebrate.

Well, I think you should.

You should go to the bar
and have an appletini with Bernie.

'Barman Bernie is also the owner
of this magical ice kingdom.

'And what better way
to end my Alaskan adventure

'than with an ice-cold tipple?'

Bernie.
Yes, sir.

How are you?

I have never had a bad clay
in my life ever.

NICK LAUGHS
That's a great attitude to take!

What are we drinking today?

Today, you're gonna have
one of our specialties.

You're gonna have an apple martini.
And the glasses are made of ice?

All made of ice.

Cheers.

Mmm.

NICK WHEEZES

This place is a little bit of heaven

right up in the absolute wilderness,
isn't it?

It's really amazing.

You'll find that people's hearts
here are filled full of love.

You'll find nobody's heart
filled full of hatred.

Do you know what, actually, Bernie,
the amazing thing is

that from the beginning
to the end of this trip,

it's been like a big hug.

It's the friendliest place,
the friendliest train journey,

the friendliest place
I've ever been.

Something about the Alaskans.

There's... Only thing cold in Alaska
is the weather.

It's the warmest place
you're ever gonna visit.

TRAIN HORN BLARES

'My Alaska Railroad adventure has
been full of eye-opening moments...'

I never expected
to be so moved by it.

It's such a beautiful experience.

'..Connecting me
with fascinating people.'

There's something about
scaring the crap out of yourself

that makes you appreciate life
a little bit more.

One, two, three...

TOGETHER: Hustle, hit, never quit!
Huh!

'An icy frontier territory,
but with the warmest heart.'

Here's to the world being
a better place, a kinder place.

I'll drink to that.