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Okay, cool. So, we found a really nice rooftop location.
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We've got this really cool panoramic of the city.
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The clouds are looking banging right now.
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What we're going to do is we're going to go ahead and set up
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a two axis motion controlled shot.
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If we look off in the distance,
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we can see that the clouds are moving from right to left.
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So, we actually want to set up our motion control shot to go from left to right.
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So, when we actually play back the video,
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it's going to be a nice little parallax of motion in between there.
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So, it's the same setup as doing a standard timelapse.
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We're going to go ahead and throw on a two axis motion control head.
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We're going to be using the Kessler second shooter which I find is
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the best head out there right now.
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It's super easy to use,
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very easy to set up and it only takes a few minutes to do.
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So, we're going to go ahead and get this set up.
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So, the first we want to do is we actually want to get the head on the tripod first.
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So, I'm going to go ahead and mount the head.
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So, we're going to go ahead and mount the head.
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It's also important to note that we're also going to weigh down the tripod
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after we set up a shop because we don't want the tripod blown over.
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Make sure it's locked in place. All right.
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Make sure everything's on there tight. Lock it down.
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We're going to change lenses for this one because the 14 is just a little too wide.
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We're going to go with something a little bit tighter which is like maybe 24 or 35.
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This is our time lapse controller.
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This is basically going to be the same thing as the intervalometer.
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But it's also going to program the move that we want to do.
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What we're going to do is we're going to go ahead and set up our pan tilt heads.
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We're going to connect those connections to the controller.
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Going to attach tilt to tilt, and pan to pan.
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We're going to ahead program a two-frame key-frame shot.
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What you'll notice is that the head of the cameras are moving,
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and when we're sending these shots,
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we're going to be putting our in and out points.
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Since the clouds are moving to the left,
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we're going to go ahead and start all the way to the left and then go to the right.
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It's going to be your job as
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the photographer to kind determine where that scene is going to start and stop,
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and really it's just a preference.
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So it is important to make sure that your tripod is level.
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Now, I would recommend using a little bit sturdier tripod for
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this but since we're on a travel mode kind of way,
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we're going to go ahead and just use this guy.
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But I'm going to weigh it down with my bag after we're done setting it up.
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So, you can control pan tilt.
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I'm going to go ahead and zoom into about 35 millimeters.
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Make sure you check your focus.
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If you're using a Sony camera they've got some really nice features that show you
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your focal points and let you know if you're in focus.
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Now, they checked focus and everything is good them and go ahead and plan my shot.
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So for the first keyframe we're going to go ahead and start off to the left here.
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I want to go ahead and punch enter.
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And then, we're going to move the camera so that it pans all the way to the right.
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And then, we're going to simply go ahead and enter that.
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So we've set our move if you want you can always go back and check it out.
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What we're going to do is I'm going to run it once to see what the move looks like.
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And we can see to make sure it's everything we want.
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Want to go ahead and run it.
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Cameras are going to go back to beginning position
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and they will be able to see what looks like in real time.
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We get a really
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nice little panoramic shot here.
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The next thing to do is we're going to do just like we do with the stationary cameras.
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We're going to set up the intervals.
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And since we're not really capturing sunset here,
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we just want to capture the motion of the clouds as they are going into sunset.
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We're getting kind of probably use a pretty fast interval.
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So for this in particular we're probably going to use three to four seconds
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and because we know that the exposure is
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going to be changing and it's going to be going a little bit darker.
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I'm going to overexpose for one stop,
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and that's going to allow me to get
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the upper and lower levels that we need for the exposure when it comes down to process.
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As you can see on my camera right here,
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I've increased it to one stop over.
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That's going to compensate for the light as it's
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changing over the course of the next 25 minutes or so.
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Effectively, we have a 3.5 second
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interval which means every 3.5 seconds are going to be taking one shot.
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And what's great about the second shooter controllers,
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it actually tells you and calculates exactly
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how much time is going to be remaining in the shot.
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For this particular shot we've got 23 minutes and 17 seconds.
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What we'll do is we'll make sure that all of our camera settings are correct.
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We'll make sure that we've plugged in our shuttle release for the camera.
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And then, want to go ahead and close my bag up hear and I'm going to use it as a weight.
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Make sure that it's really tight and on there good.
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All right. Our shots are ready to go.
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We're going to go ahead. Make sure everything's set up that we have,
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anything auto's turned off.
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All you got to do is come down here. Hit start.
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Camera is going to reset back to its starting position.
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And then, we're good to go.
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Time left started we'll see how it turns out.
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I think one of
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the biggest things you have to really watch out for when you're doing
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a timelapse especially on a roof is the wind.
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Wind is going to be the biggest annoyance you have because right
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now we're getting a really nice cross wind that's causing the camera to shake.
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In post-production we're going to have to go back and
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add what's called a warp stabilizer and that's really just
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going to smooth it out and make sure it's not jittery. But it's not too bad.
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But always make sure that you have some kind of
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stabilization whether you use your backpack, sandbags,
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or just a really heavy duty sturdy tripod because keeping
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your camera vibration free is going to be the most important thing for a timelapse.
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If you're really interested in doing a motion control shot,
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you can either go out and buy a unit.
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Which the units cost anywhere between 600 and $1000 for a standard unit,
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or you can go out and rent something and that could be
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just a couple hundred bucks or even less than a $100.
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But for something like this, this unit here,
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for a full package you're probably looking at around
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a $1000 but it's going to take you from the next level
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from beginner to pro and what it really
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get allow you to do is when you couple this with a slider,
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you can create a nice three axis motion control move,
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and even stand a two axis head move is even perfect because you got pan and tilt.
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You can capture everything in a 360 degree bubble which is fantastic.
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So I really recommend going out.
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The Kessler second shooter is my go to timelapse control rig.
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And I find that it's super easy to use and very ergonomic.
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You can put it in any kind of backpack or case,
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and it's very lightweight, and it does a great job.
11357
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