All language subtitles for remarkable.places.to.eat.s04e02.1080p.web.h264-cbfm

Experiencing great food is
one of the best things about
visiting a new city.

But how can you be sure
that you find the real gems?

I'm a seasoned professional

and even for me,

it's difficult to find
amazing places to eat.

So I've asked six of Britain's
most celebrated chefs and foodies...

Let's go! Woohoo!

..to open up their little black books

and take me to their all-time
favourite places to eat.

Welcome to Puglia.

We must have a taste of that.
We must.

You're so excited. I am!

Together, we'll travel to

some of the world's most exciting
food destinations.

This place is such a hidden gem.

It's a floating restaurant.

But we won't be just eating.

Who's next?
What would you like, sir?

We will be joining the people
behind the scenes...

No, no, no, no, no, no.

You do another one like that,
you're sucked.

..and rolling up our sleeves.

Look at this! We got a treasure!

..to find out exactly
how they deliver perfect service.

This is like a military operation

on the beach.

World-class food.

I've never had a meal like this in
my life. I feel most emotional.

..and an experience
you'll never forget.

For me, it's a ten out of ten.

Ten out of ten from Fred! Wow!

This week,

I'm in the magnificent
Mediterranean island of Mallorca.

Look at that blue sea!
It's so gorgeous.

Plus, we're together.
We're gonna have fun.

And my guide is pastry chef,
food columnist for both the Guardian

and Telegraph and judge
of Junior Bake-Off, Ravneet Gill.

On your website, there is a map
with all the locations

where you have been eating
everywhere around the world.

And why do you take me to Mallorca?

I mean, this is the last place
I thought you were gonna take me.

I think Mallorca's on the come up

and it's gonna be a food
destination very soon.

Well, you're here, so it must be.
Exactly.

The Spanish island of Mallorca
is the largest of the
Balearic Islands

and one of Europe's
most popular holiday hotspots,

attracting over 16 million
visitors last year.

The boom in tourism has meant
that finding places to eat

that celebrate the island's
authentic culinary heritage

needs careful research.

So I'm relieved
I've got Rav by my side,

even if there are no seat belts
in this classic car.

You know, I've never been to Mallorca
because for me, you know,

all I can think about is Magaluf.

Yeah, and I was the same way.

Don't get me wrong, there are still
so many tourist traps here

but we're gonna eat at some
restaurants that are heralded

at the centre of the food revolution

that's happening
in Mallorca right now.

It's a revolution? Yeah.

I'm in the right place! Exactly!

Fred, I'm gonna blow you away
with some amazing places

that all showcase
something very different

from the sea, the mountains,
to the city.

We're gonna see it all!

While most visitors make
a beeline for the coast,

instead, Rav is taking me to Caimari,

a sleepy village at the foothills
of the dramatic

Serra de Tramuntana
mountain range.

This is the island's heart,
an agricultural region where,

traditionally, islanders would
have been largely self-sufficient,

growing their own veg
and raising their own pigs.

We may only be a 40-minute drive
from the capital Palma,

but this humble location
is well off the tourist track.

We are in the middle of nowhere
in a remote village.

You've asked me to dress up.
You look like a princess.

RAV LAUGHS
Where are we going?

We're kind of in
the middle of nowhere

but I'm gonna surprise you with
the most stunning restaurant.

I came here a few years ago.

It's a hidden gem
and it's a restaurant

run by a fantastic family

and the chef is a real trailblazer.
Really?

She is putting Mallorcan food
back on the map.

So, Rav, where are we going?

It's right here.

Oh, what a beautiful building!

I know, it's gorgeous.

Can't wait. Let's go in.

Sisters Maria and Teresa Solivellas

opened Ca Na Toneta in 2001
in their family home.

Their Mallorcan tasting menus

are inspired by the way
the family used to cook and eat,

combining seasonal ingredients

grown in their allotment,
with flavours from the island,

all with a modern twist.

Maria runs the kitchen while
Teresa oversees front of house.

So, this is your table.

Brilliant. Super.

Enjoy your meal
and welcome to Ca Na Toneta.

Thank you. OK, thank you.

Isn't it beautiful?
Wow, look at this place.

It's got quite a homely feel
but it's also very chic. Yes.

So, how did you find this place?
Because it's very far from
the main town.

This chef back in London said to me,

"If you're going to Mallorca,
you have to go here,"

because she knows how much I love
things like ceramics... Uh-huh.

..and beautiful things,
and somewhere unexpected.

So, I booked it
off her recommendation

and I've been telling people
about it ever since. Right.

So, what are we gonna eat?
What kind of food do they do here?

So, it's a tasting menu

and it's ten courses.

It's a real tour of Mallorca
and the ingredients and the season

and I thought it would give you
a good taste of proper, proper
Mallorcan food.

OK, well, I'm in your hands.

Look at this menu!

I mean, it reads like a poem,
doesn't it?

Herb soup, leaves and strawberry,
snow peas, tangerine and almond.

It's reflective of spring as well,
isn't it? Yes.

Our first course is a celebration

of the island's food heritage.

Garden peas bursting with flavour

are enriched with a broth

made with sobrasada,

a traditional Mallorcan sausage.

I wanna get tuck in.

It looks like a garden, doesn't it?

It's interesting to see
how veg is first.

It's the focus.
It's the star of the show.

Meat seems very much
like a accompaniment.

Let's try.

I have never tasted anything
like that before.

Oh.

Oh, my God.
This is so delicious.

It's amazing that you can still
taste the peas,

especially next
to something like sobrasada.

I have no idea what you're talking
about when you say sobrasada.

Never had it before. Never seen it.
Never heard about it.

It's made from black pigs,
which are native to Mallorca.

They're very special.

The pork is mixed
with lots of paprika,

which is why you get this spicy,

smoky flavour without it being
really overpowering.

So delicious.

The peas are so fresh.
They're so green.

They taste incredible.

It's so packed with flavour.

Is it very traditional,
what we're eating now?

The whole idea of Ca Na Toneta

is taking all of the ingredients
from Mallorca,

showcasing
them in a modern way.

They bring it back to its roots
by using things like

these wonderful rustic bowls

and making you feel like
you're in a home. How clever.

Next, it's rice, a Mallorcan staple,

elevated with freshly-picked spinach

and topped with local langoustine.

Rustic, but chic.

Oh!

They are so sweet.

It's incredible. Mmm...

..and we're in Spain and you would
perhaps expect something
like a paella,

especially when you read on the menu
that you're having a rice dish
with fish.

However, this is quite different

and far from that because
it's not dry.

It's very creamy.

I mean, this is almost
like a risotto, isn't it?

And the spinach is so prominent,
isn't it, in that flavour of the
rice?

There is so much flavour there.

But also, there is texture because of
all these vegetables there
on the top there.

It's like the best of the sea
and the best of the earth.

You know, with the spinach,
the rice and the prawns.

It's just to die for, really.

The only shame is, it's a
bit of a small portion for me

because I could have
another one right now.

And I'm also so relieved
that you're enjoying the food.

But how could I not?

When you said we were coming
here in this remote village,

I was expecting a very
traditional Mallorcan meal

but this is anything but.

This is the kind of food you would
get in fine-dining restaurants.

The flavours are just incredible.

Our next course

is a playful combination

of everyday Mallorcan ingredients -

bacon, eggs and cheese -

combined with artichokes
from the allotment.

I'm excited to find out

about the artichoke here.

Oh, my God.

It just falls apart.

Oh! Mmm.

And it's a different
texture that you have.

The artichoke are very soft.

The cheese is very crunchy... Mmm.

..and the pork is just...

It's almost like crackling,
the pork, isn't it? Yeah.

And I'm a big pork fan...
Oh, me, too.

..and I like that it's clearly
a very prominent meat in Mallorca

and they celebrate it

and they treat it with care
and they, you know,

they find different ways
of cooking with it.

Oh, I think that's on another level.

Incredible.
This is a ten out of ten.

I am just finishing my eggs
with the bread.

This is so moreish!

To finish,
a trio of desserts

that show off the abundance of
ingredients produced on the island.

Peanuts, liquorice and pureed carrot

with kefir ice cream,

then black garlic

with real honeycomb,

finishing with shavings

of Mallorcan chocolate

over segments of perfectly ripe

home-grown oranges.

Dessert, my favourite.

Well, you would say that,
wouldn't you, being a baker?

I really don't like it,
when I used to work in service,

when I'd see checks coming in,
checks coming in

and then no dessert.
I used to get very upset.

You've got to have dessert
at a restaurant.

Finish on something nice and sweet.
Yeah.

But here, I think this is
the perfect end to a delicious meal.

I mean, yet it seems
very complicated.

There's a lot of different flavours.

They have to think about
all these combination.

This is an orange,
one humble ingredient.

But look at the care.

They just elevated
a very simple ingredient.

I feel almost emotional because...

..look at that!

To be honest, I do like
my big servings of dessert.

A big chocolate cake,
a lovely creme brulee.

But I do love coming
to places like this

and experience a tasting menu
for reasons exactly like this,

because it shows you things
that you would never do.

It's a journey for your tongue.

Everything is so spectacular.

Everything is so perfect

and you can only get
that with somebody

who knows exactly
what they are doing.

But here, I think it starts
with the ingredients but also

the techniques that she is using,

which, I mean,

I haven't seen any of this
kind of stuff anywhere before.

£70 a head is definitely
an indulgence...

Truffles...

..but for a meal that's given me
insight into the spirit
of Mallorcan cooking,

it's a price I'm happy to pay.

I think it's worth every penny

because it was so good

and it was so different.

I've never had a meal like this
in my life, in a setting like this.

And the chef here
really is a trailblazer.

I can't wait for both of us
to find out more.

You know the chef?
I'm going to introduce you.

Oh, there is one thing

that really caught my attention

is this sobrasada.

I've never seen it before.

I really want to find out about it.

Could I have your truffle
before I eat it? Come on.

Really? You take me here.
You have to have my chocolate.

This means a lot.

No, you can have it.

Go on, then. Thank you so much.

This week, I'm in Mallorca

with pastry chef, food writer

and Junior Bake-Off judge
Ravneet Gill.

This is so exciting.

It's really great.

I mean, an old tram like this.

We're like the royals on a tour.

Hola, hola!

Every summer, millions of tourists

flock to the holiday hotspots

along the island's
550km of coastline

and today we are joining them.

But Rav assures me she is
going to steer us clear

of the inevitable tourist traps.

This really gives you a good feel
of Mallorca

and of this area in particular.

We're gonna go to a beachside
coastal restaurant today

and, I think, when
you come to Mallorca,

it's lovely to be inland

but there are so many beachside
restaurants that you've got to
try at least one.

I don't wanna go somewhere where
it's gonna be burger and pizza
and French fries on the beach.

I don't want to do that. I would
never that to you, Fred. Right? No.

So, we're gonna eat really
traditional Mallorcan food,

seafood, on the beach?

Exactly. Perfect.

In the '60s and '70s,

Mallorca experienced what
locals call "the boom",

a huge spike in tourism

that had a radical impact
on island life.

Restaurants, hungry for profit,
started to shun local produce

in favour of cheaper
imported ingredients.

But Rav knows somewhere
that's fighting back.

She has brought me to
Port de Soller,

spectacularly located on
Mallorca's northwest coast.

I promised you somewhere
really special

with great food
and excellent service

and this place is such a hidden gem

and it's right on the beach.

Oh, my God.

Look at that setting!

Wow, what a place.

This is glorious, isn't it?

Look at the sea,
how peaceful it is.

And you're gonna love this.
Are you hungry? I am starving!

Come on!

Patiki is what's known in Spain
and Mallorca as a chiringuito,

a beach bar on the sand,
serving food.

Instead of cutting corners,

the team here are passionate about
using sustainably sourced produce

to create uber-fresh small plates

showcasing the island's
finest veg and seafood.

Manager Adria Salas has worked
in top establishments worldwide

like Nobu and Soho House Group

and has moved back to Mallorca
to take up the reins.

Rav has brought us here in time
to see the run-up to service
to find out more.

All right, guys,
thank you for yesterday.

First of all, it was a fun shift.

For tonight, we have
pretty much the same.

We expect a lot of walk-ins
from one-thirty, two o'clock.

This is so unexpected.

A staff briefing here
on the beach restaurant.

I mean, this is what you'd expect
from a five-star hotel...

I know... ..isn't it? ..and you'll
see the service is so slick
because of it. Wow.

Let's keep the tables clean.

Let's keep the minimum of glasses
not needed on the tables.

Clearing the table.

Very simple detail, but so important.

Let's have some fun.

Fun! I like that.

A clear briefing is crucial

to ensure the brigade is organised
for a speedy service,

which is essential as the restaurant
has back-to-back bookings

and can serve up to 500 diners a day.

Such high turnover also puts
pressure on the kitchen,

especially as the menu
changes constantly

depending on what's in season.

For a beach restaurant,

to see all these fresh seasonal
vegetables and fruits here,

this is very unusual.

And it smells incredible,
don't you think?

But look, we are
in a beach restaurant. Yeah.

I mean, where do you find
hispi cabbage?

And look at this lettuce.

I mean, look at the colour!
Look how vibrant it is.

I know. Just the type of food you
wanna eat in a setting like this.

With the priority on such quality
service and ingredients,

I can see why this place is
attracting the world's top talent.

Executive chef Bocho Bianchi
is from Uruguay.

Each day he works exclusively with

Port de Soller's few remaining
local fishing boats.

The kitchen is set up
to be fast-paced,

so when seafood is landed
right in front of the restaurant,

it can be cooked and served
to diners immediately.

Oh, fish arriving. Hey!

Oh, wow.

Fantastic.

Service is just beginning.

Yeah, they can come any time.
Local fisherman.

That's why they arrive
when they have it - super fresh.

You could be swimming with these
fishes in Alcudia this morning.

Do you know what
you're getting every day?

They call me in the morning
and they say,

"I have this, this and this,"
and I choose... OK.

..and then they bring it.

We can get cheaper
in 9am in the morning

from Galicia or from factories...
Oh, right.

..but will not be local.

So, you're making life harder
for yourself

but you're supporting all of
the local fishermen. Exactly.

Many things, we make our life
very, very difficult

but I will sell fresh.

I guarantee you're gonna eat
fresh fish today,

local, and that's it.
That's our commitment.

That's what don't happen
in many places.

They only want profit.
Most of them, you know,

but we care about the product.

We care about the island.
We care about the community.

So, that's why we care that much.

Look at the John Dory.
Yeah, John Dory.

You know, they call it also
St Peter's fish, you know? No.

They call it St Peter's fish because

you see this black mark here... Yeah.

..is where St Peter is
supposed to have had his thumb.

That's why it's called
St Peter's fish.

Oh, really? Yes.
All of them. Look. Wow.

Yeah, all of them have a black mark.

I don't know that.
That's a good story.

As the tables fill up,

I love seeing the front of house
team's relaxed holiday vibe.

But that's only possible because
the kitchen is so well-organised.

On the menu today
are local Soller prawns,

flame-fried and caramelised
in Mallorcan olive oil.

Have to be really hot.

So, when they come in,
are you cleaning and preparing them?

Actually, they come super clean. OK.

We're just trying to touch it
the less we can.

Just put it in portions
and we fry it.

You have to be very quick.

So, do you cook every order?

Every order is like this.

It's 20 seconds and that's it.

This is fast.

Super-fast

and now we take it away
from the fire.

This is the chimichurri. Ah!

Bocho elevates these
hyper-fresh prawns

with his twist on a South American
marinade called chimichurri,

made with oregano, dry garlic
and thyme,

all from Mallorca.

And that's it.

It smells incredible,
and the colour!

Tastes better. Beautiful.
Yeah. Yeah.

So, now, this is a aioli of
coriander. Aioli.

So, you're using coriander,
chimichurri. Yes.

It's actually quite South American.
Yeah, yeah, yeah.

The ingredients are from the island
but you're doing it in a sort of...

Yeah, it's a mix.
It's a cultural mix. Fantastic.

Oh, my! That was so
unbelievably simple.

Yeah, unbelievably simple.

So, service in here must just be
fast, fast, fast. Super-fast, yeah.

We have a lot of customers. Yeah.

So, we have to think about
these kind of dishes.

On top of the back-to-back bookings,

there is a constant stream
of walk-ins,

but the staff are taking it
all in their stride

because of the inventive chefs

and a razor-sharp front of house
team, plate after plate of local food

is presented as fresh as can be
to diners relaxing in the sun.

This kitchen is running
like clockwork.

I mean, this is just beautiful here.

Everything is planned to a tee.

This is like a military operation...

..on the beach.

Fish is barbecued in a
special charcoal oven

designed to reduce cooking times,

helping the team cope with the
volume and speed of service.

Oh, the smell out
of this is beautiful.

One minute.

Yeah, and you're ready.

A good product, a good fish.
That's it.

That's why you're so relaxed.

The oven burns at an
intense 400 degrees.

The difference between undercooking,

burning or perfecting the fish
is seconds,

which takes real skill to master.

I mean, look at this -
beautiful grilled sea bass,

a lovely salad and lemon.

That's it. Perfection.

This is holiday food in the sun,

citrussy, spicy, fresh seafood,

wonderfully light and zingy,

exactly what you crave
when you're on the beach.

Time for lunch. Yes.

No wonder it gets booked up
two months in advance.

This is heaven.

I'm so excited to be here.

This is the kind of place that I like
and I feel totally at home here.

Really cool, relaxed vibe.

You know, with their jeans
and their trainers, their T-shirts.

This is the experience, isn't it?

And you can only be relaxed

if you're organised enough
to be relaxed.

Otherwise you'd be stressing,
you'd be sweating, you know?

I mean, you'd be looking everywhere.
Yeah.

Yes. Oh, my goodness. Here we have
beautiful John Dory. Yes. Ohh!

Oh! Oh, yes.

Brilliant. Wow. Thank you.

Thank you.

We've ordered a whole John Dory

from the barbecue oven

with a vibrant local salad

of fennel, carrot and celery

in a Mallorcan orange vinaigrette,

and those succulent

sauteed Soller prawns enriched

with Bosco's chimichurri

and fresh coriander aioli.

After a day in the sun,
this is what you want, right?

But not many places do it.

You want the best produce
of the island

and this is what you get

and this is what we want. Yes!

Are you ready to get
your hands dirty? Oh, yeah.

Oh, make sure you get some
of that sauce as well. Yes.

Oh, they are so sweet.

Oh, so juicy. Mmm.

It's like silky smooth.

It's just balanced perfectly
with that chimichurri

that gives it just
a little bit of spice.

Oh, my goodness.

Oh, la-la. Yeah.

Wow. Oh, this is good.

This arrived on the boat today

and now we're eating it.

Mmm, and can you believe that this
dish takes 30 seconds?

And what they're really good
with in the kitchen

is just making sure
all of their prep is ready.

Their set-up is excellent

and is geared towards
a very fast-paced service

serving a lot of guests
at the same time.

Now, those prawns
were excellent, Fred.

Now you've gotta try my fish.
I know!

I know it's not really my fish. And
this is really simple fish, right?

Just cooked in the oven...

And it's a barbecue oven, so
you get that smoky flavour... Wow.

..and you know that
it's cooked to perfection

because it just slides off the bone.

Like butter. Look at that.
Thank you!

Herbs, carrots, fennel,
olive oil, orange juice...

Mmm. ..and voila!

Oh.

It is so delicate
and really, really light.

Fresh and firm.

Oh! And with the fish, you just get
the slight smokiness and you get

the really natural fresh fish
flavour and that's all you need.

But actually,
it's a really big skill

doing simple,
stripped-back food like this

because you've got
nowhere to hide, right? Au naturel.

And this is au naturel. Yes!

As the menu has an emphasis

on small plates,

we've ordered fresh green beans

and asparagus to share.

These beans have got dukkah on top

and there's a hummus on the side

which you wouldn't expect,
necessarily here,

and I think that there are
little essences

of different parts of the world
in the food here

but it's all made from ingredients
of the island.

From these mountains over there
and from that sea. Hm.

Well, I mean, you're the best. Yeah?

I mean, this trip so far, I mean,

ten out of ten in these two places,
I have to say. Fantastic.

High five. I'm so glad, Fred,
and I'm so relieved.

Whole fish here is priced per kilo,

but other dishes
range from 5 to 30 euros.

What value for money
for the freshest produce,

the best produce
that money can buy.

The beautiful setting, that view.

I mean, this is magical, isn't it?

And somewhere you'd
come back to? Definitely.

I'm in the Mediterranean island
of Mallorca

with pastry chef and food writer
Ravneet Gill.

Fred, are you sure you don't
wanna get your feet wet?

No, thank you very much.
We don't even have a towel.

I don't want to have sand
on my feet all day.

No, thank you very much.

Later. Later, later, later.

Today, we are heading back
to Ca Na Toneta

in Mallorca's agricultural heart

to meet trailblazing sisters

Maria and Teresa Solivellas,

who turned their ancestral home

into a restaurant
well off the tourist track

and are credited with being
at the forefront of a movement

to revive the island's food
traditions,

some of which have started to die out

in the wake of the tourism boom.

I can't wait to find out more about
the history of this place.

Yeah, me too.
I can't wait to meet them, actually.

Hola. Hi! Hello. Hello.

Que tal? How are you?

Fine, thank you.
Very nice to meet you.

Welcome to Ca Na Toneta.
Nice to meet you.

I'm so excited to be at your place.

It's so beautiful.

I mean, it could be in a magazine.
I mean, look at this.

Wow, thank you.
Thank you. Thank you.

So this is a home
and you grew up here. Yeah.

Our bedroom was here.

When you were little girls?

Did you share a room together?

Yeah.

There must be so many memories
that come back,

you know, when you were little girls.
Yeah.

We don't understand our work
like a restaurant.

It's, uh, like a...like a house.

Your house? Yeah, and for us,

the most important thing,
our mission, is to explain,

um, explain Mallorca and explain
who we are... And where we are.

..and where we are.

But realising that we are
in this century

and we have a lot of things to do
but never forgetting what
we had before.

When Maria and Teresa
were growing up,

as was the norm in rural
Mallorcan communities,

the family allotment was the
main source of fresh ingredients

for the dinner table.

This is a tradition Maria is fiercely
preserving in the restaurant.

The spring onion. And fennel,
too, of course.

Today, she's creating a bouquet
of salad leaves and island herbs

as an appetiser.

And here, the perfect
olive oil from Mallorca.

Yeah, from my family.
From your family...

..and the almonds?

Yeah, from here. From here, too.

So mix that together... Yeah.
..and it's all...

..smells amazing. Yeah.

Now, Maria, your job is so busy-busy

because you run a restaurant
and a kitchen and a team.

How do you have any time
to keep doing this?

It's one of the most important parts
of my work and I want to do it.

Do you have a favourite season
that you like to cook from?

Um, maybe spring. Yeah. Yeah.

It's really green and crispy
and it's short, but wow!

And let me guess.
The salt is from Mallorca?

Of course.

So, we have this wonderful
representation

of what's in the allotment right now
in a bouquet. All in one.

Yeah.

Mmm.

I think it's maybe the
freshest salad I'll ever eat...

Uh-huh. ..because you get all of
the crunch of the herbs.

They've not been sitting around.

They've just come out of the ground
and it's so fragrant.

So, when you're eating it,
you can smell everything

like the wonderful lemon balm,
the pepperiness of the rocket,

the orange and the olive oil,
the almonds.

I'm in heaven.
I could eat ten.

Yeah, yeah. Yeah.

Do you want another one?

I could eat another one.
Yeah, yeah, yeah. Yeah.

Maria and a small team of chefs

aim to bring the soul of Mallorca
to life in every dish they create,

all from what she's just picked.

complemented by the best
produce from local artisans.

I don't think I've ever worked
in such a quiet kitchen before.

Oh, this is good.
I think, for me, this is heaven.

A dish that gave Rav and I
an insight into Mallorcan cuisine

was peas in a broth of sobrasada,

a cured sausage with paprika
that is a local delicacy.

Hola, encantado. CHEFS: Hola.

Somos Fred and Rav.

That's the extent of my Spanish.

Welcome to my kitchen.
Well, thank you.

What are you preparing? Peas?

Peas and sobrasada.

Right. That's how it comes. Yeah.

So, is this the ancestral
way of keeping it?

You know, with, uh, what is it?
This is skin, isn't it?

This is the stomach. Right.
Big stomach.

Yeah, big stomach. It's big pork.

I don't use a lot of meat
and animal protein in my menu

because the way how our ancestors
have the connection with the food.

So, why didn't they eat
any meat in the past?

Is it because it was pure economics?

They didn't have the money
and they just could eat

the vegetables, right?

Yes. I think it's because they...
It's for necessity.

They can but it's more...
It's better for all,

you know, it's more sustainable,

and sobrasada is from Mallorca,
is made it with pork negro

and this meat and paprika.

I was expecting it to be like
chorizo, but it's not.

No it's not chorizo,
it's sobrasada. It's much wetter

and it kind of disappears under your
tongue, in your mouth.

It just melts completely and the
flavour is lovely. It's so round.

There's the spiciness
and the paprika really kicks in.

Look at this.

Look the colour.

I've recovered this paprika
from Mallorca.

Oh, wow.

The industry start to do

the sobrasada with paprika
from Morocco.

An old farmer,
he gave me some seeds and I plant

and then we start to do
paprika again.

But you should be the
president of Mallorca.

You are incredible!

I mean, she's like the guardian,
you know,

of Mallorca's culture and heritage.

Are you sure?

So, Maria, we're desperate to know
how you make this dish. Yes.

Should we pod some peas?
Yes, please.

You can do something because in
the kitchen...

No problem.
..Gotta keep your hands busy.

Yeah, absolutely.

But, uh, I do a broth with the skin.

I was wondering about that,
where they were gonna go, actually.

No, no. We use it.
This is good. No waste.

And then you...

That's it. That's it.

Can you imagine how simple this is?

You would never think it.

This dish reflects the rustic way

families like Maria's used
to leave home-grown veg

taking centre stage

with a little meat,
considered a luxury, for flavour.

So, you've got in here just
fresh peas, olive oil, salt...

Mm-hm. ..your broth with
the sobrasada mixed through.

This broth is genius.

No waste and it's really healthy.

Yeah. Yeah. Simple, but it's good.

And this is your recipe? Yes.
You came up with this?

Yes, yes. My grandmother
or my grandfather,

so they say you are crazy.

But it looks so traditional,
doesn't it? Really?

Only somebody who is from this land,
who grew up here,

whose roots are, you know,
anchored in this land,

could come up with
a recipe like that.

And voila.

Wow.

This is Mallorca in a plate.

Look at that. Beautiful. Smell.

We are in love with the pork.

The pork is surrounded.

It's everything. Yeah. Wow.

Yeah, it's our pork.

Look at the fat.
Yeah, look at all of that.

We lost this pork, but with the work
of some chefs and other people,

yes, I am part of...
Just like the paprika,

you brought it back to life. Yeah,

and, right now, it's...
We have a lot of pork negre.

For us, it's one of the most
important ingredients in Mallorca.

It'd be nice to go and see
where they breed these pigs, right?

I love the fact that sobrasada

has become a real symbol
of the island's cooking.

The meat comes from black pigs
that are indigenous to Mallorca

and today I'm meeting Maria's
trusted farmer, Pere Antoni,

who has been continuing
his grandfather's legacy

in preserving this rare breed.

Hola!

The pigs are still sleeping.
I can't believe it.

Encantado. Que tal?
Yeah, very good. Thank you.

How are you? Very good.
Nice to meet you, too.

So are these pigs
all over the island?

There is a drawback to rearing
these beautiful pigs.

They cost twice as much to feed
as the more common white pig.

So you must be a little bit loco, no?
Yeah.

To do this, because, I
mean, economically,
it doesn't make any sense.

Are you in love with these pigs?
El amor.

Right.

But hold on a second. You're
saying that their fat is healthier?

What? Is it scientifically proven?
Yeah, yeah.

That's why you're
looking so slim and fit.

With the black pigs' meat becoming
so prized by chefs like Maria,

Pere Antoni has turned the family's
small holding into a viable business,

looking after the animals
with the greatest of care.

They even have their own
bathing pool to relax in.

What is this? Is it olive tree? Si.
So they eat the olives, do they?

So, it does flavour the meat,
does it?

Oh, wow.

Oh, my God.
Look at all this dust.

Traditional agricultural
methods mixed with the modern

as these pigs are regularly
rounded up for a physical assessment

like no other I've seen
for a farm animal.

Look how relaxed they are.

Come on.

Oh!

Each one is first put on the scales
to be weighed.

So, this one is 120 kilos. Yeah.

But Pere Antoni goes
above and beyond,

using ultrasound equipment

to select bespoke pigs
for his clients.

Oil, over there. Si.

So, what are we looking for here?

OK.

So, this one, what is it good for,
then?

So, everything you do really
here is about producing

the top-quality meat.

So, you've got this beautiful pig,
you know, that are totally free.

They are roaming in the countryside.

They go to the spa,
they eat whatever they want.

They even eat olives there.

So that, at the end, you've got
a top-quality product.

And then, here, you are just
checking that they are right
for your customers.

This is why you're the best.

What an incredible place.

I mean, clearly, this is about
tradition, quality and service.

I mean, a place like that
and people like this, they are rare

and they should be celebrated.

I am so happy to have met them.

The passion and dedication of people
like Pere Antoni and Maria

is clearly revolutionising the
cuisine of this breathtaking island.

Fred, I visited Maria's allotment.

The beautiful thing about growing
your own fruit and vegetables

is that you're really in touch
with how things grow

and it reflects in her menu

because if we were to go
in four to six weeks' time,

it would be a different menu.

The only thing that's gonna stay
constant is the black pig,

the sobrasada and the meat
and that I saw at the farm.

You know, these people,
these farmers, they are so dedicated

because they are in love with them.

You should see these pigs.

I mean, they even had a spa.

They had this beautiful
swimming pool.

You know, the only thing they
don't do, maybe, is massage them.

But, you know, they are
so obsessed with the quality.

I don't think they intended
to be these trailblazers

but they stuck to what they believed
and it's so genuine,

which is why I think it's worked.

Because they are what they are

and this is what they do and that's
it, you know. You can't buy that.

They are not trying to
reinvent the wheel. Yeah.

So tell me, where are
we going tomorrow?

Fred, you need to get
your beauty sleep

and you're not gonna have time
for press-ups

because we've got an early start
at the bakery in Palma.

I want to wake up earlier!

I'm in Mallorca with acclaimed
pastry chef Ravneet Gill.

Today, we are in the
island's capital, Palma,

and we are up at the crack of dawn

to go in search of Rav's
favourite breakfast treats.

Wow, Rav.
It's early today, isn't it?

I know, and it's for a good reason
because whenever I go on holiday,

I don't know about you,
but I have to find a bakery.

It's one of my favourite
things to do.

And here, in Mallorca,
we've got something special.

So, do you like a breakfast pastry?

I love a croissant.
Of course you do.

Well, in Mallorca, they're famous
for ensaimada

and it's their version of
a breakfast pastry. Right.

Think of, like, something
sweet, sugary, but not, like,

overpowering for the morning.
Fluffy and moreish. Right.

And there is a really special
bakery down the road

and there is a baker who has
brought back all of these
traditional recipes

and he now showcases them
in his bakery.

There's queues around the corner

and we're gonna go
and see how they're made,

do a bit of eating. Perfect.

What? Are we going to be baking?
Yeah, we are! Yeah.

You're gonna end up with flour
in your hair.

Of course, I am, with you.
Let's go.

Fornet De La Soca,
in the heart of Palma's old town,

is run by husband and wife
Tomeu Arbona and Maria Jose Herrero

and their trusted team
of artisan bakers.

Unlike more industrial bakeries,

everything here is
handcrafted on site,

using traditional methods
and organic local ingredients.

The couple are respected
all over the island

as being the gatekeepers
of old Mallorcan recipes.

So, Fred, here we are.

You might be able
to smell it already.

Oh, yes.

Look at this place.

It's like we're transported
back in time.

And look at this.
I mean, I don't speak Spanish,

but Arqueologia Gastronomica Local,

archaeologists' gastronomic.

You're gonna really enjoy this place

and, personally, I can't walk past
a place like this without going in.

Oh, wow.

I am totally stunned
and lost for words.

Look how beautiful this is.

These sorts of things make me
feel so happy inside.

Look at all of the moulds
along the wall.

I kind of wanna live here.

I don't know where to look.
There is so much to take in.

And look, there's pastries.

Oh!

I just didn't even see the pastries.
Look at that!

They look like little jewels.
They're beautiful.

These are the ensaimadas.

They've got the traditional ones

and then they've got ones with
fruit, cream and chocolate.

Mmm!

Ensaimadas are Mallorca's answer
to a croissant or a brioche,

a sweet spiral bun
with layers of flaky pastry

generously dusted with icing sugar.

I can't wait to try one.

This is where the magic happens,
isn't it? Exactly.

But first, we are going to help
make today's batch.

So, Tomeu, we saw outside that it
says archaeologist of gastronomy.

Can you please explain that to us?

Artisanal. Artisanal.

Tomeu's ensaimadas
come in different sizes

with the smallest costing
just over two euros each.

While I help man the oven...

This is hard. I'm sweating.

..Rav is going to help make
his family-size ensaimada

which faithfully preserves the recipe

found in his
great-grandma's cookbook.

Eggs.

Despite being a sweet treat,
it surprisingly contains potato.

Can you taste the potato
or is it for a texture?

Wow. OK. So, that's why
they're so light and so fluffy.

Not only does the potato
enhance the flavour,

it also makes the dough
nice and flexible.

Me?

I love doing this,
even when I'm on holiday.

The name ensaimada comes
from the Mallorcan word saim,

meaning lard.

It is indulgent but,
just like butter in a croissant,

it's the secret to adding
those flaky layers of pastry.

This is quite therapeutic,
actually, and it's quite nice.

It feels really good on your hands.

To create the signature
ensaimada spiral shape,

the dough is cut in two and rolled
into very long strands.

It is so elastic.

It's incredible.

I've never really worked
with a dough like this before.

And, of course, where
a machine could be used

for the crucial
braiding of the dough,

Tomeu's dedication means he does it
by hand, like in bygone days.

Ah! Quite tricky!

I actually think it takes
a lot of stamina.

So, I don't think I could stand
and do this all day.

It's quite... It's quite, like...
It's quite a lot of work.

One person is dedicating all of
their time and energy to
making this.

It's beautiful.

Ah, so it's gonna grow.

OK. So, you leave a little bit
of gap in between? Si. Right.

So, the oven is everything.
You spent so much time doing this.

I would make sure you
keep a good eye on Fred.

Despite my complete
lack of experience,

I've been let loose with la pala...

Oh, my God.
It's not going straight.

..the spade that takes the ensaimadas
in and out of the oven.

This thing is so bendy.

Thankfully, Adri is on hand
to advise me.

So, Adri, tell me,

how do you organise all these trays
inside the oven?

Wow. But you've gotta be on it,

you've gotta be so focussed because
if you make a single mistake

and these things cook longer
than they should, then that's it.

Oh, this is so difficult.

Oh, do you see the technique?

Did you see that? Estan perfectas.

Beautiful.

Let me get the other one
before it overcooks.

Oh, God.

What have I done?

Look at this.

I'm not gonna show you the back
because, unfortunately,

I have stabbed it.

Oh, I am so sorry.

No, no problem.

I mean, it goes to show
how difficult it is.

You don't leave an amateur
in charge of a baker's oven.

You don't.

La responsabilidad.

I can see that.

I really admire how Tomeu
is so dedicated

to ensuring Mallorcan baking
traditions not only survive,

but thrive.

We've worked up an appetite.

So, for 16 euros, we treated
ourselves to a family-size ensaimada.

And what better place to tuck in

than overlooking Palma's cathedral?

I can't wait to try it.

I mean, look at that.

The history of Mallorca in a pastry.

The ensaimada de Mallorca,

pillowy soft breakfast pastry

and Mallorcan culinary icon

rolled into one.

You know what
is good to have a big one, as well,

is that actually you can
just put it on the table

and share it as a family
or share it with your friends.

Exactly, and some families will
buy one and then they'll eat it

throughout the day or they'll warm
it up and have it for breakfast

over multiple days.

There you are.
Only the best service for you.

Lovely. Thank you, Fred.

Oh.

Oh! And the edges get slightly crisp

and they're still really flaky.

It reminds me of a croissant because
there are so many layers

and they are all so light

and they are all so flaky

and this is just so perfect.
Look at that.

If you like the crispy bits,
I'd eat the edge

and if you like the doughy bits,
I'd go into the middle.

I just want to have it all.
I feel so greedy.

It's absolutely gorgeous.

I can't wait for you
to try and make it.

You'll have to come round, Fred.
Give me a call.

Or I'll make it for you with a
coffee. You bring the biscuits.
Be quick!

When we first arrived,

Rav promised to take me to places

away from the tourist traps

where Mallorcans were reviving
the island's rich culinary heritage,

and she has not disappointed.

The three places that you took me to
were absolutely perfect.

I'm really glad, because
there's a big misconception

when it comes to Mallorca.
Even I had that.

I felt that it was gonna
be a party island,

lots of tourist food,
but it's so much more than that.

Everyone we have met is driven
by a desire to showcase

the very best of Mallorca.

Their sense of pride and dedication

has created dishes that have brought
the spirit of the island to life.

Rav is right.

This is a food destination
to be reckoned with.

Something that has really
impressed me about Mallorca is

we met three people who are
all about preserving tradition

and not taking any shortcuts.

We've got wonderful Maria
at Ca Na Toneta

who goes to the allotment and then
makes her menu accordingly.

Bocho at Patiki Beach.

He could just order in fish
from international waters

but, instead, he decides
to keep it Mallorcan.

And, finally, our wonderful
baker, Tomeu.

He lives and breathes what he does.

I mean, this is an obsession
for him, isn't it?

And people like this are so key

to making somewhere
like Mallorca so special.

So, Fred, have you fallen
in love with Mallorca yet?

I have been totally blown away.

You have chosen
three incredible places.

Next time, I'm in Rome...

What a beautiful place
you take me to.

This is so romantic.

..with chef Giorgio Locatelli...

It's off the beaten track, but it's
really worth it, I'm telling you.

..in a city where food is everything.

Is it gonna be better than Paris,
though?

It's definitely better than Paris.

100%! In every way.

Ciao, bella!

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