All language subtitles for 005000000

hand stitching

looks like a lot of stuff but i'm going

to make this easy

it's easy we're going to make it easy

hold on

first thing we need obviously are holes

in the leather

all right real quick just to wait

pounding that with french tips

diamond slash blade and diamond

and an awl which is the same as a

diamond tip

the french tips are not made to go all

the way through

they're just made to mark your leather

these

three are made to go all the way through

the leather

so your french tips

your blades

and your diamonds

and you're all

over the years i've watched hundreds of

videos

on hand stitching and

hands down nigel armitage is

the king of hand stitching so

a lot of what i do is exactly the way he

does it

i've also incorporated a little bit from

others

to sort of make my own style a little

bit but

if you're going to watch anyone else it

would be nigel armitage

real quick let's go over spacing usa

folks usually tend to

use the stitch per inch or spi

i use millimeters it's a lot easier to

keep up with

here's an example at six

five we're talking about millimeters

here between tips

four three

these are all six punches six millimeter

five millimeter

four millimeter three millimeter and

i do have a five 5.4 which would

fit right here so if you want to see

what that looks like

let's take a look six

5.4 hey let's give us a line

five

four

and three

so those are all six holes but as you

can see

they're gonna go a different distance

what do i use the most i use five

millimeter most

for almost everything unless i'm going

really long

say a top hem or a strap i'll go with

six

if i'm doing something small or

intricate like a watch strap

i'll go with four three

is worthless and

5.4 is too many decimals

all right real quick where can we get

some of these

my 15 hole punches were handmade for me

by kevin lee

and you could look him up on instagram

it's got

the six millimeter in the five

millimeter

these you could buy anywhere

ebay amazon um

the tin tooth is a little bit harder to

find

but you can find them you're gonna find

your your eights your six your fours

your twos your ones

you'll never find a three that was a

bigger one that i cut myself because

every once in a while i need three

but i'm gonna put a link down in the

description for

some punches just like this on amazon

and if you search around you can find 10

punch also

now these punches here are made by ks

blade punch

if you can see that or not they make

really really high quality tools all of

my hole punches are made by ks blade

i don't prefer these for doing leather

because i'm not

wild about that thick hilt right there

but really good quality and you can find

them on instagram as well

these are three different size two hole

punches and then one

one hole punch at the end of the video

got a little tip for you

whacking devices remember we're not

making this complicated

so yes i've got numbers here with

weights

but it's not that big of a deal i've got

six pounds

if i'm going 15 stitches

in one wack i usually use that one but

i don't have to this one's three pounds

13 ounces

one pound basically one pound basically

two pounds basically 99.9 percent of the

time

i'm on these two right here i prefer

this one the most

as small and tiny as it is it's just

easier to do

and more efficient sometimes i'll go

with that one

and if it's a big emergency and i my

patience is run out

i'll grab that one but again don't make

this complicated

one last thing don't use metal

on your metal chisels that's what you

want right there

[Music]

next step is to figure out where you

want that stitch line to be

just get a set of dividers simple easy

cheap doesn't matter i usually go with

five millimeters

that's so that's between the edge and

where i want my stitch line

and all i've got here is two layers of

five six ounce horween

something glued together so we can see

it i'm gonna use some white thread so we

can see what we're doing

but that's it just take your dividers

and

there's your stitch line simple easy

i'm going to do everything with 10 holes

10 stitch chisels try to keep everything

consistent

just grab a weight something heavy this

is the mask on and zb anvil

this is really really nice to have in

your workshop

easy to move around heavy you can use it

for rivets you could use it for

stitch holes and i cut a cutting board

put right on top just put your teeth

right in that line that you just made

simple

make sure this is perpendicular straight

up and down

small and give it a good wet if it

doesn't go through

whack it again see there through the

back side

and then to get that out just get a bone

folder

or a bone and cut it yourself push that

down

there you go ready to stitch

next up of course we need needles

and thread needles

i use the john james

here's the size and i'll put a link down

in the description

to the exact ones that i get use

thread this is ritza tiger thread

i use one millimeter which is the width

if i'm doing something really really

small like a watch strap i might go to

0.8 millimeter

but 99 of the time i'm using one

millimeter

and the magic question is how much

thread do i need

of course this isn't a regular item but

let's pretend it was

i would just go four times

just stretch it out and do a little bit

over for each side to go in the needle

so there's one

two

three

four and let me show you something about

the needles

and that cut now with saddle stitching

you're going to use

two needles one on each side

and you got to get that thread

through that hole which seems

somewhat difficult but as you know we're

gonna make everything easy

so here's the trick just cut at an angle

just make a tip see how sharp

that tip is right there look at that

that'll slide right through that needle

quick and easy boom

and then just pull it through come down

about an inch

just sort of pinch that ribbon right

through your fingers and pierce it right

through the middle

like that and you'll see a lot of people

they come through twice and do an

s and they come back here and do you

don't need to do all that

remember easy simple just one through

pull it

and you're done i've done that about 250

000 times

and i've never had it come undone easy

easy easy

all right one needle on get another

needle

let's put a little angle on there real

quick

right through the hole

slightly pinch that ribbon pierce it

and you're done

don't let anyone tell you that that's

complicated

all right let's do some stitching now it

appears we have a dilemma

because we have holes

two needles and it looks like we need

at least three hands to stitch this

and hold this and there's a solution

and we knew it was coming hold on and

the answer to our prayers of course

is stitching ponies this is not where i

normally keep them i've just got them

out here to

sort of show the evolution of

my stitching ponies this was my first

stitching pony

that i made this is supposed to go

under your thighs and then this up here

you put a clamp and it's horrible

it's absolutely horrible so what i ended

up doing was putting it on a bench

i mean a footstool and then

put my feet down here instead of my

thighs

and i got a little bit faster a little

bit faster and i said you know what

i like that idea so i made this one with

a longer throat

and this one clamps also

feet pedals so i could sit in my chair

longer top looking at about a six inch

top

instead of a four inch top

and then i made this one extra almost

identical to this one

just in case and then we move on to the

porsche of ponies if you will

and i'll show you that one hold on

all right this this is what i use now

this is a modified version of a romanov

stitching pony the romanov starts here

and goes up to here and i cut the tips

off here

i made this base this base hollow

through here

for a little weight reduction

feet petals scissors

i also added some knobs for this

this is to tighten this is the tension

loosen this up

this is the tension for the tilt

so now if i'm sitting there stitching

from that direction

and i need to go this way i can stitch

around the side

i could have a better angle i'm here as

opposed to here

pull it up put it wherever i want it

clamp it shut

open it up i've also added these wings

black walnut wings with just metal

rulers i cut

and put leather on the inside

but this gives me a seven to eight inch

as opposed to a three inch

and now the elephant in the room no not

the dog that's chloe she's barking gotta

go see what she wants

the elephant in the room i posted a

whole story

about this sticker on instagram so if

you want to check it out head over to my

instagram and you can take a look

so here's how it works

simple as that tighten

adjust

and stitch let's get to it

so grab said leather

put it in the jaws

obviously we're only stitching from here

to here

but there we go thread

start in the very next to the last hole

not the last hole

leave one hole back here if you were

going to be stitching a wallet that went

all the way around

and then you ended up at the same spot

that you started then you could start

here

and then over stitch two but if this

were the very start of stitch run

and you were going to end back here

somewhere

leave one back and then go to a back

stitch

just like so

and i'll show you that in detail hold on

it's a little difficult to show with one

camera got to keep going back and forth

and back and forth

we're looking straight down from the top

i'm one stitch

forward go to the one stitch back

see that needle make a cross right over

the top

you can go over the back also it all

depends on your casting

where your thread goes on the back side

we'll get to that in a second

this is the way i do it there's not

necessarily a right and a wrong

cross over the top hold it

go back in with your other needle

not your first needle

like so let's do that again and back

into

this hole here

cross cross right over the top

you might need to watch this a few times

especially once i get going

it might click cross over the top

pull it out

flip the needle that was on the front

there and here's the casting

you see where my needle is in the front

and my thread is here

cast over

over the needle

so left needle in right needle

top on the cross your right needle now

flips

forward into the hole

cast over the needle and pull through

the hole

i'll do it a couple more times from

various angles hold on

all right we're on the right side

this is the back side left side

left needle through the back

right needle over top make that cross

pull it through get that cross now take

that right needle flip it down

into the hole

cast over the needle and pull

in real time it would look like this

there you go you have hand stitched

let's do one more

and if that were the end of your stitch

run and you are done

now you want to go back two stitches

what i like to do

is take this right needle start this

hole a little bit

so that i don't split the thread that's

already in the hole

make make a hole through the back take

my back needle

come through that hole that i just made

pull it through go back through

that's one back stitch

do it again one more

put that needle through

that's two back stitches of course

you want to burn or cut and burn on the

back

so we'll put this one back through so on

the front

it'll be three but on the back

you got two back stitches now the

advantage to the easy threading method

that i showed you is you can now just

cut right down there by that needle

anywhere and then these just pull right

off you don't have to fiddle with that

you're done and then take these and i

would cut

about a sixteenth to an eighth of an

inch back

like so

now you've got your thread tips

just burn and press down with a modeling

spoon

all right let's do 10 more real quick

there you go get some teeth through

there

10 holes all right i'm going to pretend

like

you're not watching and i got a lot of

crap to do today

and i'm in a hurry so let's roll

i'm going to speed a little bit of this

up to save some time

and you are very welcome

i just had an idea uh remember when i

said i was gonna show a little tip with

the two hole punches

how about if i just do a lightning round

of sorts

with a bunch of helpful tips and tricks

let me finish this up real quick and

we'll get to that

how easy is that all right let's wrap

this thing up with some tips and tricks

and

oh that's a good idea

let's do number one here's something

that might come up

if you want to loop over the top

or loop over the edge

let me just show you how to do that

right quick

you're humming along and you get to

just wherever you want to loop over

just loop over

go back into the same holes that you

were in

on this one i will go backwards and go

behind with the cross

back into the hole pull one

pull two get them straight

and now you're over and then just keep

going

not much to it and two

okay let's say this is the corner of

your wallet well

it shouldn't be the corner of your

wallet because you shouldn't have any

square points like that in my opinion

so let's make this

more like that okay this is the corner

of your wallet

and you've got your stitch line like so

and you've come down here with your

stitch holes

and you've come this way with your

stitch holes

now what you've got is a spot where you

need to put your holes

well here's a little trick if you're

running around with five millimeter

holes

and you grab your five millimeter punch

if you go and figure out if those five

millimeter

spaces would work if they don't

you see there's a spot there that's

about two millimeters

what you don't ever want to do is grab a

bigger one

six or if you're doing four don't go up

to five

always go down just tighten it up if you

need to in a corner

rather than spacing it out if you space

it out it's gonna look bad

if you tighten it up it's gonna look

okay because you're in a radius of a

corner

so in this case i would just go with

force

now that looks better and a little bit

tighter

but it's okay because you're in a corner

and three quick and simple

sometimes that needle will get stuck

when you're stitching and you need to

get some pliers

don't get pliers with teeth like this

you can if you want

but you're going to scratch up those

needles just get

flat pliers

and four tee pockets

when you go to stitch your tee pockets

make sure those two teeth straddle

that gap

don't put a stitch right down in that

hole like there

and there straddle it

bonus tip number two regarding t pockets

when you get to the top you want that

stitch hole to be right over the edge

like

pretend like it's falling over a cliff

and then going down

you don't want a big gap between

the top of that pocket and your first

hole

and five duplicate runs let's say you're

doing these card pockets

the bottom of each one of those gets

stitched

this is a horrible example but let's say

you've got all these stitch runs

you do your thread you figure out times

four

you cut it well i would cut all of them

a little bit long put two needles on the

first run

stitch it and see if it's way too long

you could clip a little bit off the

remaining four or five or whatever

you've got

this also works for pockets if you're

making a wallet

and it's got three pockets that are

exactly the same and they all have three

different stitch runs

go ahead and do your thread for all

three put needles two needles

on the first one and see how long it is

and adjust your

length after that and six this is a

simple one

anchoring holes use that hole right

there

to anchor let's say this is your wallet

this is

trash well let's just get rid of that

use that last hole as your anchor for

your next

hole that way your spacing

is consistent all the way down

and seven a quick word about efficiency

you're going to be stitching thousands

and thousands of stitches

if you can save one second on each

stitch

well after 60 stitches that's one minute

that you saved

300 stitches that's five minutes

saved if you save one second per stitch

if you get to where you can save 10

seconds every stitch

that's 50 minutes over 300 stitches

that's about one hour so

just get efficient and eight

here's a fun one consistency

even if you stitch wrong as long as you

consistently stitch

wrong the whole way on all your stitches

you probably won't even notice so

consistent

consistent consistent just stay the same

here we go final word

well look at the end of the day we're

not doing brain surgery here

we're hand stitching leather and no

matter what your end goal is

the most important thing is that you're

having fun so

just practice over and over don't get

too frustrated

don't let small annoyances get in your

way

let them teach you rather than anger you

stay consistent become efficient

and most of all just have a good time

no don't start your last hole don't be a

idiot