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hi I'm Chuck Dorset for Weaver

leathercraft and this is the leather

element if you've got a good question

for us we're good idea for leather

element drop it in the comment box below

now this week we get a lot of questions

on threads chisels and needles what goes

with what

well for the most part with hand sewing

any goes with any troy'd it's more of a

personal call but the bigger problem is

this for so long I've been in leather

work a long time it's just my opinion

but for the most part we have had four

strand and we've had six strand good

luck with it okay but the second problem

we've had four basic colors black brown

beige and white doesn't really get the

creative wheels to turning okay Riza

thank you very much because now we have

multiple sizes of thread and we have an

array of beautiful colors so let's start

with threads jump over here and look at

our four thread sizes side-by-side to

make this as consistent as possible in

the best comparison I can make

I've got a piece of bridal weather and

I've dropped in for groove lines we're

going to use for size of the thread

we've got a point six millimeter point

eight that's my favorite fact that

project is made with a point eight one

and one point two millimeter for the

chisels I'm going to use our 1/8 inch

flat for each line so again consistent

across the board colors that's exactly

what I was talking about are those not

beautiful rich colors all kinds of

design possibilities there ok so I'm

going to take this piece drop in for

chisel lines drop in each of the four

sizes we'll get a good close-up see what

looks best to us for stitch lines clean

and tight let's get a little better look

at these so up top point six millimeter

the second down is point eight then one

then one point two millimeter now all

told this is really up to you what looks

best for you but also the size of the

project has a little bit to do with that

now up here if we're working on safety

equipment or tack saddle weight belts

yes we can jump up to that one point two

but that's a big stitch

gonna look at a place on say something

like a watchband or a smaller project so

therefore I can back down now I like the

eight that's my favorite looks good on

most any project but here's the biggest

point it's handsome

I want that visible I can absolutely see

that easy to so with easy in and out of

our chisel holes and our needle I no

problem okay speaking of needles let's

jump over we're gonna take a look at a

couple of sizes of needles needles are a

lot like thread forever we've had one

option and that's it now it's not a bad

needle no sharp point that's what we're

looking for a hand sewing needle but

also to that big eye it's great for

getting wax thread through but we're

gonna break one of these on just about

every project in comparison the John

James needles I started using these when

I joined Weaver about four years ago

believe it or not I have not broken one

now bent one pretty bad but let's don't

go there but but nonetheless very strong

needle okay let's get a close-up of

these so on the top my favorite that's a

number eighteen that's one point oh nine

millimeters the next down is a number

seventeen that's a one point four two

diameter and sixteen one point six three

millimeter diameter so that's a big

needle now it's great for our bigger

lace it's got a bigger eye

I struggle trying to get this thread

through this needle it can be done but

for the most part I like the number

eighteen easy to work with

now one more notice that big boy okay

not necessarily for hand-sewn well it is

if you're sewing a sail but not

necessarily leather but I thought I'd

throw that in there because that's huge

alright chisels let's take a look at the

differences in chisel types and lengths

back to our English bridle so I've got

six lines now I've got five four five

chisels and then this line set off here

by itself that's gonna be let's don't do

that line okay so let's start right here

I'm going to start with my favorite flat

chisel this is five stitches per inch

eighth of an inch so I'm going to drop

this in I'm gonna make about three sets

okay very clean and crisp that's coming

in at about five stitches per inch let's

jump over now to our six millimeter

diamond it's going to leave be a little

bit different look but right here this

two is right about five stitches per

inch and there we go maybe just a little

bit further on that now let's jump down

to a five millimeter which now we're

getting to be about I think this is a

little more than five per inch maybe

about six stitches per inch okay just a

little bit short there now down to a

four millimeter

now we're up to about seven stitches per

inch okay and down to our smallest this

is that is tiny hitting it so we're

talking three millimeters here nine

stitches per inch okay now that is a

tiny little stitch one more we're going

to use a spacer wheel because we see

this on cheap kits just looks awful so

with a spacer wheel this is simply going

to run along my groove line and show me

where I need to place a hole now with

that I'm going to take absolutely our

smallest hole punch and I think that's a

3/32 so let's punch our holes you know

what I kind of really don't care how

many stitches per inch that yes that's

going to look terrible

the point is we see this on a lot of

cheap projects or kids so therefore

we're gonna put some thread in there see

how that looks

but these are going to look spectacular

okay I'm gonna jump over to my pony

I'm gonna drop in some thread let's see

what the difference is okay for this I'm

going to use our number eighteen needles

and our point eight millimeter thread

I'm going to use that for our first

three lines are larger chisel then I'm

going to jump down to the point six for

our two smaller down here I don't know

we'll figure something out right alright

so let's start right

hear comments Adler stitch okay so

there's our stitch I'm going to pull

that through not that on the back so it

remains tight but to me that's a good

combination easy on my hands easy to sew

the needle fits the wax thread well

that's a very clean good-looking stitch

okay gonna jump up here do the same

thing to our next diamond chisel lines

and our last okay I'll not that on the

back but thus far those are three

good-looking stitches we're starting to

see a little bit more of that diamond

defect here we're that's simply a flat

stitch alright let's jump over to our

point six and do our last two and one

more there okay

now that's a tiny stitch it all told

that's beautiful very clean so we might

reserve these two chisels and thread and

needle for our smaller projects say

again like a watchband or maybe the

pockets in a wallet okay let's jump down

to this smallest now when we're sewing

this typically with a with a settler

stitch we're going to push both needles

through at the same time make an X move

our fingers but the problem here is this

hole is too small for both needles I can

get them through but let's do this I'm

gonna pull one three one needle through

and then I'm gonna pull that back

towards me that's gonna open up that

hole so therefore when I come through

with my other needle I'm not worried

about splitting my stitch and that

needle slides right through then I can

add some tension okay there we go

outside that knot shortly but that is

one tight little stitch line now two

points on this chrome Tanz don't

typically have as much body as our vege

does so the two smaller stitches that's

going to look nice on a chrome but

secondly right here the integrity of

this stitch line that's an awful lot of

hole compared to leather through there

so I don't really know how strong that's

going to be but again for our smaller

projects that's going to be no issue

okay our last line I've got I've got

some one millimeter thread loaded on my

needles let's sew this and see what

happens okay I'm not gonna sew anymore

but on that one I think you'll agree

that just looks terrible yeah typical of

an inexpensive kit all right I'm gonna

hammer our stitch lines down then let's

get a good close up of this I am happy

with every one of these stitch lines

okay

closer look so up top we've got our

eighth inch flat six millimeter diamond

five four and three millimeter diamond

now for your new to letter I would

suggest just my opinion but I would

suggest starting with your flat chisel

it's a big hole so it's easy to get both

needles through you can move pretty

quickly but also it's a good looking

very strong consistent stitch also I

would say start with our John James

number 18 and our point eight wax thread

that's a good place to start from there

expand your horizon because there's all

kinds of ways we can go and they all

look great well hope this is good

information for you hope you pick just

the right chisel just the right thread

and just the right needle to create a

stitch line that looks good to you

because that's all that's important now

beginners dive in hand sewing it's easy

it's fast and biggest point it's a good

bit this side of an expensive sewing

machine so as always I hope this is good

information for you thanks for taking

time to watch the leather element good

luck with your projects

you