All language subtitles for 40-ColorGradingInAlienSkinExposureX3.mp4

Now for the actual color grading of
this image.

My little secret

that I used to color grade is I use a
program called

alien skin exposure a lot.

I'll use it a lot.

You can definitely use

curves and

things like that to achieve the effect
you're trying to create.

Like, okay, I want to add more
contrast.

Great.

Let me grab a curve.

Let me make the s curve and add
contrast.

And I think like, this totally works.

But I just happen to think that

exposure

is quick for what I use.

So I just go to come in and go to

alien skin exposure.

It does struggle sometimes

with

these huge, huge, huge files,

so

you sometimes have to work around it.

But

for the sake of speed, I really

like it.

So I'm just going to pick

one kind of that I prefer.

So I'm going to go.

The one that I think turned out really
nice on this was

like, a code gold, which is that

regular

cool night one of the codet gold, I
think, was this one

it's just that consumer grade film.

I just thought, even though it's
usually a very saturated gold film, it

looked really nice

here.

I thought I had a nice little punch to
it.

I also will say that I rarely use this
at its fullest intensity.

So obviously you can come in here and
you can tweak these levels a lot.

But a lot of times what i'll do is I
just lower the opacity until I'm happy

with it.

So let's run this and see if it'll get
it.

Sometimes doesn't on the first time,

or maybe I'm just not that patient.

Ok?

And so this it's a much punchier look,
but let me take the opacity

and dial it back.

Another thing that i'll usually i'll
regularly do when I run this is I actually

control it with two layers.

So i'll take

this one that was just rank, because it
generates it on a new layer, and I

duplicate it.

And on the top one, I change the
blending mode to color.

And on the bottom one, I changed the
blending mode to luminosity.

And if you don't know a lot about
blending modes, you really should.

There's some good blending mode glasses
here on creativelive that you should

definitely get into, because it really
allows you to control things a lot more

easily and a lot more effortlessly and
with a lot more control.

And so what I'm basically saying is

the one of these is only going to
affect the color and one of these is

only going to affect the brightness and
contrast.

And so I can basically say, hey, I
really like the way it did contrast.

I don't like what it did in the color.

And so I can control them separately.

I find it it's a little bit easier for
me to do it this way than to do it

actually in the program.

So that's kind of how I like to do it.

So like, this was luminosity,

and there's no color that's being
changed, it's just tone.

So maybe i'll go, I just want to back
it off a little bit.

Great.

Cool.

And now I go to color.

Ah man, really saturated.

Let's bring this off quite a bit more.

So now it's at thirty percent, maybe

303040

percent.

So now I got to use the color at thirty
percent and the luminosity at seventy

percent.

And it gave me the color grade that I
wanted.

That's usually how I like, how I like
to work with a program like that.

And I think it gives me a whole lot of
control

and

sets me up

for

success.

So where we started

was here,

and where it ended was here.

Not hugely different, but definitely
has a lot more polish.

I prefer the color I think it's a
little bit more.

The whole image just feels a little bit
cleaner.

The details

are a little bit better.

And there are obviously things, more
things I would do to this image.

I dodge and burn it.

I would clean up, scan,

all the normal stuff you would do for a
retouch.

I just kind of wanted to show you some
of the bigger,

bigger things that really help

guide this, to get the image to where
it is.

Ok?

So

we'll feel some questions on this
particular image if you have them.

Oh, by the way, when you're dealing
with these files,

you generally are not going to be able
to save it as a tiff for a psd.

You might as well just default it to
something called a

large document format that saves it as
a psb

psb.

Because once you start breaking that
four gigmark,

it just doesn't work.

It won't save it.

And these files get real big,

real fast.

Especially, not only are you searching
panels, but you start duplicating

layers and stuff.

I mean, these things can be 8910 gigs
pretty easily.

Just something to keep in mind.

Questions, this is a bit of a quick
edit.

How much more time would you invest if
you wanted to actually print this

and where would you spend that
additional time?

So obviously we're teaching.

Yeah, like, if you're sitting down by
yourself with a cup of coffee to work

on this thing,

it would depend upon,

it would depend upon where it's going.

That's definitely an important
consideration.

So

if it is going for a big ad, maybe i'll
spend a couple hours on it.

If it's

going to be printed small, maybe not as
much.

It really depends on the scope of the
project and who needs it.

I find that the quicker you are in
Photoshop, the better you get, the

quicker you are.

So maybe i'll spend

thirty minutes to an hour on an image.

Just depends on how intense it needs to
be.

Sometimes it's fifteen minutes,

so it really depends.

Then sometimes it's four hours