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Lakes are living creatures.
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These precious reserves of water
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live and die according to
distinct natural cycles.
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Their peaceful waters seem dormant
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yet they teem with mysterious life.
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Lakes only reveal themselves
to the men and women
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who take time to patiently
linger beside their shores.
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Together, we are going to
discover their secrets.
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Surrounded by large
stretches of arid land,
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and looming mountains, the Great Salt Lake
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is sometimes called America's Dead Sea.
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It's salt content is so high,
it seems unfit for life.
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Nevertheless, millions of
birds flock along its shores
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to feed and mate.
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Though its water is
saltier than the ocean,
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the lake is a complex ecosystem,
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home to amazing creatures
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and filled with unsuspected treasures.
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How can such incredibly diverse
lifeforms have flourished
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in an environment as extreme as this?
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Located in the northern part
of Utah, one of the driest
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states in the US, the Great
Salt Lake covers an area
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of more than 4400 square kilometers.
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Nearly two million people live
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in the region surrounding it.
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A biologist at Westminster College,
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Jaimi Butler has devoted
herself to the study
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and protection of the Great Salt Lake.
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- I grew up here in Salt Lake,
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and I'm an avid Great Salt Lake lover.
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I'm passionate about it.
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We were taught that Great
Salt Lake isn't so great,
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that it smells, that it's
buggy, that it's a dead lake,
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that nothing lives here,
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that there's no value in the lake at all.
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Great Salt Lake has a lot of
different microenvironments.
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00:02:48,717 --> 00:02:51,827
So even though Great Salt
Lake is salty, there are
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lots of things that have adapted over time
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to live and thrive in its salty waters.
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00:03:05,598 --> 00:03:07,908
The Great Salt
Lake region regularly receives
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00:03:07,912 --> 00:03:11,462
heavy rains blowing in
from the Pacific Ocean.
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00:03:18,259 --> 00:03:21,789
How is it then, that the
lake's water is so salty?
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00:03:26,456 --> 00:03:29,816
The reasons for this lie in
the mountains surrounding it.
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In spring, the snow and
ice that have accumulated
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over the winter begin to melt.
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00:03:38,353 --> 00:03:41,033
An extraordinary amount
of water gushes down
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00:03:41,025 --> 00:03:44,145
the mountain slopes and into
the rivers that feed the lake.
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00:03:45,134 --> 00:03:48,264
And yet, this exceptionally
pure water changes
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long before it reaches the lake.
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00:03:54,844 --> 00:03:58,094
It is a phenomenon that
limnologist Wayne Wurtsbaugh,
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00:03:58,087 --> 00:04:00,317
who has been studying the
lake for over 30 years,
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00:04:00,316 --> 00:04:02,606
is very familiar with.
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- One of the reasons the
Great Salt Lake is salty
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00:04:06,641 --> 00:04:10,731
is because these rocks behind
me weather through time.
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These, over tens of thousans
of years, break down,
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release calcium carbonate,
magnesium carbonate,
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00:04:18,023 --> 00:04:20,213
sodium chloride.
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00:04:20,209 --> 00:04:23,099
These flow down into the Great Salt Lake,
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and if it was a normal
lake with an outflow,
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those salts would just
flow on and eventually
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00:04:28,679 --> 00:04:30,489
make it to the ocean.
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00:04:30,493 --> 00:04:32,493
But Great Salt Lake is a terminal lake,
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00:04:32,490 --> 00:04:34,960
which means the only way the water leaves
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00:04:34,964 --> 00:04:38,274
is via evaporation up into the atmosphere.
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00:04:38,269 --> 00:04:41,039
When that happens, the
salts are left behind,
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00:04:41,039 --> 00:04:44,769
and we wind up with a salt lake.
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00:04:50,547 --> 00:04:53,147
Since the lake
is a closed circuit system,
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00:04:53,149 --> 00:04:55,379
a phenomenal quantity
of mineral salts have
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00:04:55,379 --> 00:04:58,209
accumulated over the centuries.
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00:04:58,610 --> 00:05:01,750
Two million tons more
salt arrive each year,
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00:05:01,746 --> 00:05:04,176
to the delight of
industrials who've managed
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00:05:04,175 --> 00:05:05,925
to turn it into a profit.
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00:05:11,390 --> 00:05:14,300
With its water much too salty for any use,
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00:05:14,302 --> 00:05:17,232
this unpopular lake must have
been quite a disappointment
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00:05:17,225 --> 00:05:21,005
to the pioneers who settled here in 1847.
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00:05:26,045 --> 00:05:29,155
Nevertheless, with advanced
irrigation techniques,
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these persevering farmers
managed to transform
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00:05:32,200 --> 00:05:34,910
part of the arid terrain into fertile land
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00:05:34,908 --> 00:05:37,498
and founded Salt Lake City.
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00:05:44,869 --> 00:05:47,959
After their settlement, came
the building of the railroad,
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00:05:47,962 --> 00:05:51,672
and a causeway spanning
the lake from East to West.
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00:06:06,993 --> 00:06:09,463
This massive construction
has had a considerable
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00:06:09,457 --> 00:06:12,587
impact on water flow in the lake.
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00:06:15,376 --> 00:06:18,186
When seen from the air,
today's Great Salt Lake
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00:06:18,192 --> 00:06:22,042
looks odd, as if a line had
been drawn straight across,
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00:06:22,043 --> 00:06:25,943
dividing it into two distinct
parts of different colors.
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00:06:26,501 --> 00:06:29,521
The railroad causeway has
created two disconnected parts
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00:06:29,519 --> 00:06:31,919
of contrasting hues.
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00:06:39,150 --> 00:06:41,830
- We're standing on the
shore of the north arm
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00:06:41,828 --> 00:06:43,148
of the Great Salt Lake.
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00:06:43,150 --> 00:06:45,210
You can see the pink water.
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00:06:49,250 --> 00:06:52,300
Gonna take a sample here
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00:06:53,242 --> 00:06:56,232
and measure the salinity
of the water with something
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00:06:56,226 --> 00:06:58,536
called a refractometer.
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00:07:01,609 --> 00:07:04,199
I can look through this and see a line
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00:07:04,200 --> 00:07:06,100
that tells me what the salinity is.
97
00:07:06,103 --> 00:07:10,093
And, as expected, it's about 30 percent
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00:07:10,085 --> 00:07:12,025
salt by weight.
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00:07:12,029 --> 00:07:13,749
You can compare that with the ocean,
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00:07:13,751 --> 00:07:16,241
that's about, oh,
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00:07:17,241 --> 00:07:19,941
close to 10 times what the ocean is.
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00:07:23,214 --> 00:07:24,724
North of the causeway,
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00:07:24,719 --> 00:07:28,949
there is practically no fresh
water that enters the lake.
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00:07:28,952 --> 00:07:32,642
The occasional rains cannot
make up for solar evaporation.
105
00:07:37,282 --> 00:07:40,162
Nevertheless, despite the
extremely high salinity
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00:07:40,162 --> 00:07:43,162
of this environment, cut off
from the rest of the lake,
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00:07:43,159 --> 00:07:46,589
it is not completely devoid of life.
108
00:07:48,641 --> 00:07:52,261
- We have bacteria in here,
and we have green algae,
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00:07:52,257 --> 00:07:54,857
but even the green algae
have red pigments that help
110
00:07:54,860 --> 00:07:58,860
protect from the sunlight,
and so the water looks pink.
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00:07:58,860 --> 00:08:01,620
And if we were to go to the
other side of the causeway,
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00:08:01,624 --> 00:08:06,164
just 30 meters away, it looks green,
113
00:08:06,160 --> 00:08:08,500
so it's really a striking difference,
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00:08:08,501 --> 00:08:10,951
and a whole different
community over there.
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00:08:14,849 --> 00:08:16,379
The reason
the water is green
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00:08:16,384 --> 00:08:19,724
south of the causeway, is that
its salinity is much lower
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00:08:19,723 --> 00:08:22,053
than the water to the north.
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00:08:22,690 --> 00:08:26,420
This is where the three
major tributaries flow in,
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00:08:26,774 --> 00:08:31,184
the Jordan, Weber, and Bear Rivers.
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00:08:33,721 --> 00:08:37,291
Here, the salinity is only
15 percent, a tolerable
121
00:08:37,294 --> 00:08:40,824
level that makes it possible
for life to develop.
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00:08:45,816 --> 00:08:48,436
Located on one of the main
migratory routes in western
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00:08:48,440 --> 00:08:52,230
North America, the Great Salt
Lake is a strategic stopover
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00:08:52,230 --> 00:08:56,420
for millions of birds
migrating north in spring.
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00:09:02,231 --> 00:09:05,091
Some merely pass through,
while others, such as
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00:09:05,089 --> 00:09:08,409
the White-faced ibis,
build their nests and raise
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00:09:08,407 --> 00:09:10,607
their young in the marshes.
128
00:09:15,232 --> 00:09:18,682
As summer approaches,
American avocets seek food
129
00:09:18,678 --> 00:09:22,498
in the areas exposed by
the drop in water level.
130
00:09:23,745 --> 00:09:27,815
Survival in this shifting
habitat is a constant struggle.
131
00:09:29,793 --> 00:09:32,783
But it is north of the causeway
that we find one of the
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most hostile environments of the lake.
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On this hot July morning,
a motley procession
134
00:09:58,257 --> 00:10:00,767
comes rolling down the causeway.
135
00:10:07,447 --> 00:10:11,717
Summoned by biologist John
Luft, a group of 30 volunteers
136
00:10:11,723 --> 00:10:14,393
are about to brave the ultra-salty waters
137
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of the north part of the lake.
138
00:10:16,502 --> 00:10:18,542
- We wanna get done
before it gets too hot.
139
00:10:18,539 --> 00:10:21,399
Also there's a storm supposed
to come in this afternoon
140
00:10:21,398 --> 00:10:24,248
maybe, so if we can get off
the water before the wind
141
00:10:24,252 --> 00:10:27,152
picks back up, then that would be great.
142
00:10:30,805 --> 00:10:33,605
The group's
destination, Gunnison Island,
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over 35 kilometers away
from their launch point.
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00:10:50,440 --> 00:10:53,260
John Luft is in charge of
several research programs
145
00:10:53,256 --> 00:10:55,126
on the Great Salt Lake.
146
00:10:57,335 --> 00:11:00,005
Each year, he heads to
Gunnison Island to carry out
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a delicate mission.
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00:11:05,750 --> 00:11:08,140
- There is very few
people who has set foot
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00:11:08,140 --> 00:11:09,950
on this island.
150
00:11:13,451 --> 00:11:14,851
Surrounded
by the pink waters
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00:11:14,848 --> 00:11:17,128
of the north part of the lake, the island
152
00:11:17,130 --> 00:11:19,810
is particularly inhospitable.
153
00:11:19,806 --> 00:11:23,426
No trees here, only rocks and salt.
154
00:11:31,304 --> 00:11:32,974
- Yeah, go ahead.
155
00:11:32,996 --> 00:11:34,336
It looks like one of them
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00:11:34,338 --> 00:11:36,808
moved out of the shore.
157
00:11:36,811 --> 00:11:40,271
- Yeah, we don't see 'em
here, but are you ready
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00:11:40,267 --> 00:11:42,067
for us to come over?
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00:11:42,453 --> 00:11:43,973
Ready pretty quick.
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- All right, we're on our way.
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Okay, go ahead.
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The team
have spotted the object
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thousands of young pelicans
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that hatched on the island
a few months earlier.
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00:12:07,085 --> 00:12:09,775
Each year, over 10,000
American white pelicans,
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00:12:09,784 --> 00:12:13,664
close to 20 percent of this
bird's world population,
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stop in this extreme habitat to breed.
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00:12:23,725 --> 00:12:26,925
For these birds, Gunnison
Island is a sanctuary,
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protected from the exterior
world by ultra-salty water
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that no predator would dare cross.
171
00:12:40,140 --> 00:12:44,150
The clumsy young pelicans
haven't learned how to fly yet.
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Their parents have left them on their own
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to go search for food.
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00:12:54,014 --> 00:12:56,894
This leaves the scientists
with only a few hours to band
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00:12:56,894 --> 00:13:00,394
the young birds before
the adults get back.
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00:13:04,109 --> 00:13:07,709
- It's important for
these birds as protection
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00:13:07,714 --> 00:13:12,234
for nesting area, not so
much as a food source.
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00:13:12,226 --> 00:13:14,756
The closest food source
to Gunnison Island is
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Bear River Bay, which is
about 30 miles east of us.
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00:13:25,527 --> 00:13:27,737
Here in the
bay's less salty waters,
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00:13:27,735 --> 00:13:29,445
the pelicans catch fish they can then
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bring back to their young.
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Safe on their island, the young
pelicans wait impatiently.
184
00:13:40,203 --> 00:13:43,343
- We like to track them, and
the easiest way to do that
185
00:13:43,339 --> 00:13:45,929
is using these patagial
markers, because they're
186
00:13:45,929 --> 00:13:49,269
really visible outside the wing, and
187
00:13:49,268 --> 00:13:51,238
a lot of bird watchers can see them,
188
00:13:51,241 --> 00:13:54,141
and we don't need the
bird to die to actually
189
00:13:54,142 --> 00:13:58,302
get a return from an
observance from these birds.
190
00:14:00,851 --> 00:14:02,391
These markers
have already enabled
191
00:14:02,388 --> 00:14:05,538
scientists to solve a few mysteries.
192
00:14:06,825 --> 00:14:08,505
We now have a better understanding
193
00:14:08,509 --> 00:14:11,069
of the journeys made by the pelicans and
194
00:14:11,070 --> 00:14:13,750
where they go to find food.
195
00:14:15,410 --> 00:14:17,520
- And we have record,
through the banding record,
196
00:14:17,523 --> 00:14:20,133
the bands that we're putting
on, that show the travel.
197
00:14:20,125 --> 00:14:23,165
Pelicans will travel up to 300 miles,
198
00:14:24,095 --> 00:14:27,025
round trip, just to forage and bring food
199
00:14:27,027 --> 00:14:28,737
back to the chicks.
200
00:14:31,602 --> 00:14:35,002
It isn't easy
to catch the young pelicans.
201
00:14:36,498 --> 00:14:39,398
The volunteers need to pick
up the pace, since the adults
202
00:14:39,399 --> 00:14:42,209
are already on their way back.
203
00:14:49,458 --> 00:14:51,568
The scientists hope their
markers will help them
204
00:14:51,574 --> 00:14:55,084
understand why only 25
percent of the young
205
00:14:55,083 --> 00:14:57,213
survive each year.
206
00:15:07,488 --> 00:15:10,758
The work is completed in the nick of time.
207
00:15:10,762 --> 00:15:15,282
At last, the adult pelicans
can feed their famished chicks.
208
00:15:22,228 --> 00:15:24,948
For the moment, Gunnison
Island offers pelicans
209
00:15:24,948 --> 00:15:27,048
the perfect refuge.
210
00:15:27,045 --> 00:15:29,855
But this might not always be the case.
211
00:15:32,053 --> 00:15:35,323
Scientists have noted
that since the 1990s,
212
00:15:35,320 --> 00:15:38,870
the level of the lake has
been diminishing regularly.
213
00:15:39,338 --> 00:15:41,308
Some of them fear that the trend,
214
00:15:41,312 --> 00:15:44,022
partially attributable to global warming,
215
00:15:44,020 --> 00:15:46,900
will only intensify in the future.
216
00:15:48,129 --> 00:15:50,729
One day, it may very well
be possible for predators
217
00:15:50,730 --> 00:15:53,490
to reach the pelican sanctuary.
218
00:16:03,744 --> 00:16:06,274
To understand what the future holds,
219
00:16:06,272 --> 00:16:09,282
sometimes we need to look to the past.
220
00:16:15,370 --> 00:16:20,010
150 kilometers west of the
lake lies a vast plain of salt.
221
00:16:20,941 --> 00:16:23,821
It is one of the flattest
zones on Earth and the ideal
222
00:16:23,821 --> 00:16:27,051
place for heading back
in time to the origins of
223
00:16:27,053 --> 00:16:29,023
the Great Salt Lake.
224
00:16:39,030 --> 00:16:40,760
- Here we are, Geneviève.
225
00:16:41,324 --> 00:16:43,714
- Sunrise on Great Salt Lake.
226
00:16:43,710 --> 00:16:46,230
Well, it isn't really Great Salt Lake,
227
00:16:46,232 --> 00:16:49,002
we're at the Bonneville Salt Flats.
228
00:16:49,002 --> 00:16:52,692
It's the climate change of hot and dry
229
00:16:52,690 --> 00:16:57,050
versus wet and cool that makes this place
230
00:16:57,051 --> 00:16:59,911
just be a total contrast.
231
00:17:02,881 --> 00:17:03,931
This place was once
232
00:17:03,931 --> 00:17:06,301
an immense expanse of water,
233
00:17:06,300 --> 00:17:09,670
Lake Bonneville, the precursor
to the Great Salt Lake.
234
00:17:09,669 --> 00:17:11,609
- So we'll start with this one.
235
00:17:11,610 --> 00:17:16,440
30,000 years ago, climate
changed, globally,
236
00:17:16,442 --> 00:17:20,302
and we went into a
colder, wetter environment
237
00:17:20,303 --> 00:17:21,923
here in North America.
238
00:17:21,924 --> 00:17:26,104
It only took, probably,
fewer than a hundred years
239
00:17:26,100 --> 00:17:29,990
for it to go from Salt Lake to Wendover.
240
00:17:29,993 --> 00:17:32,713
This is big changes.
241
00:17:37,033 --> 00:17:41,103
It was a large lake, about
the size of Lake Superior,
242
00:17:41,097 --> 00:17:44,997
and that lasted for about 20,000 years.
243
00:17:46,519 --> 00:17:48,809
At it's highest
level, Lake Bonneville
244
00:17:48,809 --> 00:17:51,609
covered nearly two thirds of Utah.
245
00:17:52,617 --> 00:17:55,647
This gigantic reservoir
contained a hundred times
246
00:17:55,648 --> 00:17:58,858
more water than the current lake,
247
00:17:58,874 --> 00:18:01,274
until a cataclysm took place.
248
00:18:03,716 --> 00:18:06,846
- We had this failure that
everybody's enamored of,
249
00:18:06,853 --> 00:18:07,963
I am too.
250
00:18:07,962 --> 00:18:10,542
It's called the Bonneville Flood,
251
00:18:10,538 --> 00:18:14,938
and its outpouring,
this was this whole lake
252
00:18:14,937 --> 00:18:18,987
dropped 300 feet in less than a year.
253
00:18:21,155 --> 00:18:23,045
The natural
barrier retaining the water
254
00:18:23,054 --> 00:18:26,684
in the north part of the
lake abruptly gave way.
255
00:18:28,440 --> 00:18:30,410
- Either there was an
earthquake or a landslide,
256
00:18:30,413 --> 00:18:34,023
or any number of things
happened, and it failed.
257
00:18:34,018 --> 00:18:37,148
And once it failed
, just like butter,
258
00:18:37,154 --> 00:18:39,474
it just went right through it.
259
00:18:39,470 --> 00:18:43,650
It equals all of today's rivers combined,
260
00:18:43,650 --> 00:18:47,010
the Ganges, the Amazon, the Mississippi.
261
00:18:52,289 --> 00:18:54,059
With all the
water that drained out,
262
00:18:54,059 --> 00:18:56,789
the level of the lake
radically diminished, leaving
263
00:18:56,789 --> 00:19:00,759
traces on the landscape that
can still be seen today.
264
00:19:03,339 --> 00:19:06,589
Next, the climate began to
warm up, and the enormous
265
00:19:06,588 --> 00:19:09,668
Lake Bonneville gradually evaporated,
266
00:19:09,667 --> 00:19:13,047
slowly changing into a desert of salt.
267
00:19:16,054 --> 00:19:19,284
Today, the only remnant
of this former inland sea
268
00:19:19,276 --> 00:19:21,486
is the Great Salt Lake.
269
00:19:23,746 --> 00:19:25,886
On a smaller scale, the fluctuations
270
00:19:25,890 --> 00:19:28,230
in water level have continued.
271
00:19:28,439 --> 00:19:31,339
From one year to the next,
from one season to another,
272
00:19:31,340 --> 00:19:33,580
the lake level varies.
273
00:19:33,590 --> 00:19:35,680
This is easy to see when
you compare two photos
274
00:19:35,682 --> 00:19:38,122
taken two decades apart.
275
00:19:39,190 --> 00:19:42,090
- So this image is from the 1960s,
276
00:19:42,091 --> 00:19:45,211
this image from the 1980s.
277
00:19:45,206 --> 00:19:46,266
What do you want to do first?
278
00:19:46,273 --> 00:19:47,833
- I'd like to go to Antelope Island.
279
00:19:47,829 --> 00:19:49,689
- Antelope Island is here.
280
00:19:49,685 --> 00:19:52,515
Notice that it isn't an island.
281
00:19:52,522 --> 00:19:56,632
- In my picture, Farmington Bay is huge.
282
00:19:56,629 --> 00:19:59,159
- Stansbury, not an island.
283
00:19:59,157 --> 00:20:00,267
How about on yours?
284
00:20:00,267 --> 00:20:01,577
- Yeah, mine's an island.
285
00:20:01,579 --> 00:20:02,909
Aren't you special?
286
00:20:02,912 --> 00:20:05,112
I wanna do Bear River Bird Refuge.
287
00:20:05,105 --> 00:20:07,205
No water, empty.
288
00:20:09,647 --> 00:20:12,477
Barely 20 years
separate these two pictures,
289
00:20:12,477 --> 00:20:14,827
yet the difference is blatant.
290
00:20:14,825 --> 00:20:18,025
Islands become peninsulas, then return
291
00:20:18,028 --> 00:20:20,528
to being islands once more.
292
00:20:21,974 --> 00:20:25,014
In this flat shallow
lake, the slightest shift
293
00:20:25,014 --> 00:20:28,294
in water level changes the
shape of the shoreline,
294
00:20:28,287 --> 00:20:31,987
causes floods, or dries
up entire habitats.
295
00:20:34,164 --> 00:20:37,744
The lower the water level,
the higher the salinity.
296
00:20:39,200 --> 00:20:41,700
Each fluctuation of the Great Salt Lake
297
00:20:41,701 --> 00:20:43,791
has immediate consequences.
298
00:20:50,047 --> 00:20:52,667
In the north part of the
lake, an amazing sculpture
299
00:20:52,671 --> 00:20:56,751
appears and disappears, in
keeping with these variations.
300
00:20:58,216 --> 00:21:01,436
Spiral Jetty, Robert
Smithson's work of land art,
301
00:21:01,440 --> 00:21:05,190
required several tons of
basalt and rock to create.
302
00:21:09,630 --> 00:21:13,040
- I remember the first time I
came out here with students,
303
00:21:13,043 --> 00:21:15,453
the water level was so high,
304
00:21:15,446 --> 00:21:18,726
that we canoed over Spiral Jetty.
305
00:21:19,343 --> 00:21:22,603
We couldn't even see it under the water.
306
00:21:22,596 --> 00:21:25,766
- Spiral Jetty is a very
artistic water gauge.
307
00:21:25,765 --> 00:21:28,735
- It is that, and now I can't
believe we're walking on it,
308
00:21:28,736 --> 00:21:30,376
it's dry as a bone.
309
00:21:33,076 --> 00:21:34,586
Bonnie Baxter, a biologist
310
00:21:34,591 --> 00:21:36,981
with Westminster College is an expert
311
00:21:36,979 --> 00:21:39,479
in the lake's microorganisms.
312
00:21:42,292 --> 00:21:44,832
For her, the Spiral Jetty area amounts
313
00:21:44,831 --> 00:21:47,841
to a true outdoor laboratory.
314
00:21:50,067 --> 00:21:53,087
- What we're out here to do today
315
00:21:53,085 --> 00:21:55,995
are find microorganism that can live
316
00:21:55,997 --> 00:21:58,227
dried up in salt crystals,
317
00:21:58,228 --> 00:22:03,148
because some seasons we
find very little water,
318
00:22:03,720 --> 00:22:07,590
and we know that the
microbes are still alive.
319
00:22:11,355 --> 00:22:14,565
The microbes that live
here have learned to
320
00:22:14,565 --> 00:22:19,475
pump the salt out and to make
things inside their cells
321
00:22:19,483 --> 00:22:22,533
to compensate, like lipids or sugars
322
00:22:22,526 --> 00:22:25,196
to balance their membranes in the water.
323
00:22:25,199 --> 00:22:28,499
And so they have these
special secrets for life
324
00:22:28,495 --> 00:22:31,935
in this place, and what we find is
325
00:22:31,935 --> 00:22:34,785
the microbial community
that's here in June
326
00:22:34,788 --> 00:22:37,438
is different than the microbial community
327
00:22:37,450 --> 00:22:39,220
that's here in October.
328
00:22:40,336 --> 00:22:42,146
And sometimes we see new microbes,
329
00:22:42,149 --> 00:22:45,099
new species we've never seen before.
330
00:22:45,098 --> 00:22:47,788
So if you follow the lake over time,
331
00:22:47,791 --> 00:22:50,881
you will find the microbial
diversity changes,
332
00:22:50,884 --> 00:22:52,514
which is beautiful.
333
00:22:55,138 --> 00:22:57,528
It's surprising to me
that so many people think
334
00:22:57,527 --> 00:22:59,397
there's no life in this lake.
335
00:23:01,124 --> 00:23:03,714
Cultured in a
laboratory for several months,
336
00:23:03,705 --> 00:23:06,795
the samples taken by the
scientists have allowed them
337
00:23:06,799 --> 00:23:09,639
to understand why the lake changes color
338
00:23:09,636 --> 00:23:12,276
from one season to the next.
339
00:23:12,282 --> 00:23:15,562
- As the lake gets more concentrated
340
00:23:15,558 --> 00:23:20,408
in a species under the
genera of halobacteria,
341
00:23:20,418 --> 00:23:23,158
we would see a purpley color.
342
00:23:23,164 --> 00:23:26,854
If it were more concentrated
in an algae we call
343
00:23:26,853 --> 00:23:31,023
dunaliella salina, it would
be more like my shirt,
344
00:23:31,024 --> 00:23:33,534
it would be more of an orange color.
345
00:23:36,941 --> 00:23:39,081
So this is evidence, just visually,
346
00:23:39,077 --> 00:23:41,797
of changing microbial communities.
347
00:23:46,522 --> 00:23:48,592
The bacteria
give the lake its stupendous
348
00:23:48,591 --> 00:23:51,691
colors, but also provide
the main source of food
349
00:23:51,686 --> 00:23:55,166
for other creatures,
which are just as strange.
350
00:23:57,904 --> 00:24:00,394
In the south part, a
large proportion of the
351
00:24:00,389 --> 00:24:04,309
biodiversity depends on the
tiny organisms that thrive there
352
00:24:04,313 --> 00:24:06,333
in spite of the salt.
353
00:24:09,559 --> 00:24:12,389
On this day in early summer, Kyle Stone is
354
00:24:12,386 --> 00:24:14,726
taking samples that are of the utmost
355
00:24:14,732 --> 00:24:17,212
importance for biologists.
356
00:24:21,217 --> 00:24:23,867
What he's collecting are
tiny crustaceans called
357
00:24:23,867 --> 00:24:25,477
brine shrimp.
358
00:24:27,179 --> 00:24:29,109
These creatures play a crucial role
359
00:24:29,109 --> 00:24:31,609
in the lake's biological cycle.
360
00:24:32,405 --> 00:24:34,235
- We collect these
samples to determine the
361
00:24:34,240 --> 00:24:36,200
number of shrimp throughout the lake
362
00:24:36,203 --> 00:24:38,103
per liter of lake water, and we use that
363
00:24:38,102 --> 00:24:39,892
for management purposes,
364
00:24:39,894 --> 00:24:42,824
to manage the brine shrimp harvest season.
365
00:24:45,932 --> 00:24:47,662
Brine shrimp provide food
366
00:24:47,660 --> 00:24:49,980
for several varieties of birds,
367
00:24:49,982 --> 00:24:53,432
and are remarkable creatures
in and of themselves.
368
00:24:55,618 --> 00:24:58,198
By evacuating the salt
they absorb, they're able
369
00:24:58,199 --> 00:25:00,819
to survive in water with
a mineral concentration
370
00:25:00,823 --> 00:25:02,883
of over 50 percent.
371
00:25:07,649 --> 00:25:09,639
The eggs they lay can survive temperatures
372
00:25:09,644 --> 00:25:12,914
higher than 100 degrees Celsius.
373
00:25:16,278 --> 00:25:18,928
In summer, brine shrimp
feed on the green algae
374
00:25:18,934 --> 00:25:21,994
that proliferate in the
lake during the winter.
375
00:25:22,944 --> 00:25:25,734
They act as filters, removing
the algae from the water
376
00:25:25,728 --> 00:25:27,978
in a few months' time.
377
00:25:29,994 --> 00:25:32,404
This explains why the
water gradually loses
378
00:25:32,403 --> 00:25:35,483
its green color and even
ends up a veering blue
379
00:25:35,476 --> 00:25:37,066
in the fall.
380
00:25:48,848 --> 00:25:51,168
But the amazing brine
shrimp are not the only
381
00:25:51,172 --> 00:25:54,052
secret harbored by the Great Salt Lake.
382
00:25:56,538 --> 00:25:58,858
One part of the shoreline
seems to be made up
383
00:25:58,862 --> 00:26:01,852
of strange living rocks
that Wayne Wurtsbaugh
384
00:26:01,849 --> 00:26:04,049
knows quite a lot about.
385
00:26:09,240 --> 00:26:13,110
This is a stromatolite,
which looks a lot like rock,
386
00:26:13,107 --> 00:26:14,767
and, in fact, it really is rock.
387
00:26:14,765 --> 00:26:16,795
But it's formed by life,
388
00:26:16,803 --> 00:26:21,333
and the life that forms
it is the cyanobacteria.
389
00:26:21,326 --> 00:26:25,446
It's a type very similar to
algae, and because of the
390
00:26:25,454 --> 00:26:27,884
cyanobacteria in the solid substrate,
391
00:26:27,875 --> 00:26:30,715
we have brine flies growing on this.
392
00:26:35,037 --> 00:26:36,657
Three generations of flies
393
00:26:36,657 --> 00:26:40,607
grow on these stromatolites each year.
394
00:26:40,797 --> 00:26:43,187
The fertile rocks provide
larvae with shelter
395
00:26:43,186 --> 00:26:45,446
and an abundance of food.
396
00:26:48,411 --> 00:26:51,101
- These stromatolites
that we're walking on now
397
00:26:51,099 --> 00:26:53,699
are probably half a meter thick,
398
00:26:53,703 --> 00:26:55,703
or something like that,
and have been growing
399
00:26:55,696 --> 00:26:57,666
for a long time.
400
00:26:57,669 --> 00:27:01,139
They grow over tens of thousands of years,
401
00:27:01,137 --> 00:27:03,687
and if we look down, we can see tens or
402
00:27:03,685 --> 00:27:05,915
hundreds of thousands of brine flies.
403
00:27:05,915 --> 00:27:09,655
Some are sitting on the
surface film of the lake,
404
00:27:09,659 --> 00:27:12,459
making almost a solid mat.
405
00:27:23,908 --> 00:27:26,138
In the summer, the density of the flies
406
00:27:26,137 --> 00:27:28,527
reaches its maximum.
407
00:27:29,017 --> 00:27:32,697
Any, other than a scientist,
would consider them a plague.
408
00:27:33,944 --> 00:27:36,154
But Jaimi and Bonnie
know that these insects
409
00:27:36,152 --> 00:27:39,742
are an essential component
of the lake's ecosystem.
410
00:27:42,072 --> 00:27:44,362
- The flies at Great
Salt Lake still amaze me
411
00:27:44,364 --> 00:27:47,764
after working out here
for all of these years.
412
00:27:47,757 --> 00:27:50,617
You can see the sparkle on
the surface of the water.
413
00:27:50,615 --> 00:27:54,005
Those are the adults that
are laying their eggs on the
414
00:27:54,009 --> 00:27:56,939
water in the Great Salt Lake.
415
00:27:57,773 --> 00:28:01,683
The flies are cycling nutrients by eating
416
00:28:01,676 --> 00:28:04,806
these microbes on the bioherms there,
417
00:28:04,813 --> 00:28:09,183
specializing on the benthic microbes that
418
00:28:09,175 --> 00:28:13,065
live on the bottom of Great
Salt Lake and feeding on them.
419
00:28:15,094 --> 00:28:18,984
People have estimated up
to 370 million pupa cases
420
00:28:18,977 --> 00:28:21,447
on one mile of shoreline.
421
00:28:21,451 --> 00:28:24,471
This is incredible
biomass for the birds that
422
00:28:24,470 --> 00:28:27,100
migrate here all year round.
423
00:28:36,763 --> 00:28:38,693
The abundance of these flies
424
00:28:38,687 --> 00:28:40,727
helps explain why the Great Salt Lake
425
00:28:40,725 --> 00:28:43,545
is one of the main stops
along the migration route
426
00:28:43,553 --> 00:28:45,793
of countless bird species.
427
00:28:47,903 --> 00:28:51,783
But could this cornucopia
turn into a threat?
428
00:28:54,079 --> 00:28:56,999
Over the past few years,
scientists have grown alert
429
00:28:57,001 --> 00:28:58,971
to the presence of mercury in the bodies
430
00:28:58,974 --> 00:29:01,204
of certain waterfowl.
431
00:29:02,974 --> 00:29:05,854
There is little doubt as to
the origin of the mercury.
432
00:29:05,854 --> 00:29:08,634
It comes from industrial waste.
433
00:29:09,384 --> 00:29:11,894
The highly toxic metal
leeches onto the bottom
434
00:29:11,890 --> 00:29:14,480
of the lake in the
sediment that constitutes
435
00:29:14,483 --> 00:29:16,803
the fly larvae's food.
436
00:29:18,503 --> 00:29:21,273
These larvae in turn
are the main food supply
437
00:29:21,265 --> 00:29:22,815
for the most highly contaminated
438
00:29:22,823 --> 00:29:26,193
bird on the lake, the Common Goldeneye.
439
00:29:31,601 --> 00:29:33,691
Scientists have discovered the fly larvae
440
00:29:33,691 --> 00:29:36,521
are at the bottom of a
toxic food chain, where the
441
00:29:36,518 --> 00:29:40,528
concentration of mercury
gets higher with each link.
442
00:29:42,001 --> 00:29:45,911
But are the flies the only
vector in this lethal sequence?
443
00:29:45,905 --> 00:29:47,365
Don't other animals contribute to
444
00:29:47,365 --> 00:29:49,235
spreading the poison?
445
00:29:49,637 --> 00:29:51,287
- Look in front of us.
446
00:29:51,290 --> 00:29:54,430
We have at least a hundred spiders,
447
00:29:54,426 --> 00:29:55,806
big spiders.
448
00:29:55,812 --> 00:29:58,652
These are Orb Weavers at Great Salt Lake,
449
00:29:58,649 --> 00:30:01,829
so birds aren't the only
ones that eat the flies
450
00:30:01,828 --> 00:30:04,038
out here at Great Salt Lake.
451
00:30:04,036 --> 00:30:08,926
Orb Weavers also love
to feast on all of those
452
00:30:08,930 --> 00:30:11,510
billions of flies that
are behind us on the
453
00:30:11,513 --> 00:30:13,923
shorelines of Great Salt Lake.
454
00:30:14,733 --> 00:30:17,343
Until now,
the role the spiders play
455
00:30:17,336 --> 00:30:19,676
in the contamination of
other species had not
456
00:30:19,683 --> 00:30:22,003
been clearly established.
457
00:30:23,170 --> 00:30:25,540
- I had begun working with
one of our faculty members
458
00:30:25,538 --> 00:30:29,308
at Westminster College who
had some preliminary data
459
00:30:29,314 --> 00:30:34,314
on how much mercury was in the
spiders at Great Salt Lake,
460
00:30:34,956 --> 00:30:39,136
and had talked to the media
about this, and a photographer
461
00:30:39,138 --> 00:30:43,118
contacted us right away and
said, "I have pictures of birds
462
00:30:43,116 --> 00:30:46,776
"that are feeding these
spiders to their nestlings,"
463
00:30:46,789 --> 00:30:50,459
which is a very interesting
way for a scientist
464
00:30:50,455 --> 00:30:53,425
to gain information,
through a photographer.
465
00:30:56,111 --> 00:30:57,851
Intrigued by the photos,
466
00:30:57,850 --> 00:31:00,470
researchers were eager to learn more.
467
00:31:00,826 --> 00:31:04,116
They installed a miniature
camera near a nest.
468
00:31:07,749 --> 00:31:11,659
First ingested by flies,
then by spiders and birds,
469
00:31:11,662 --> 00:31:14,032
the mercury becomes
more concentrated as it
470
00:31:14,030 --> 00:31:17,240
progresses along the food chain to man.
471
00:31:18,009 --> 00:31:20,839
Certain ducks with mercury
levels that are too high
472
00:31:20,835 --> 00:31:23,725
have been banned from human consumption.
473
00:31:29,037 --> 00:31:31,427
The presence of this toxic
metal in their main source
474
00:31:31,427 --> 00:31:34,697
of food has transformed
the Great Salt Lake into
475
00:31:34,700 --> 00:31:38,340
a risky stop off for
America's migrating birds.
476
00:31:54,487 --> 00:31:57,277
Summer is almost over, and there are
477
00:31:57,281 --> 00:31:59,431
fewer and fewer flies.
478
00:32:03,498 --> 00:32:06,418
The birds have had a
chance to stock up on food
479
00:32:06,421 --> 00:32:08,151
and are ready to leave the lake
480
00:32:08,152 --> 00:32:10,682
for regions where the winter is milder.
481
00:32:15,199 --> 00:32:16,939
Autumn heralds a new stage
482
00:32:16,937 --> 00:32:19,527
in the biological cycle of the lake.
483
00:32:22,868 --> 00:32:24,748
The moth of October marks the opening
484
00:32:24,745 --> 00:32:27,715
of a very particular fishing season.
485
00:32:30,329 --> 00:32:33,779
The brine shrimp have
laid an actual treasure.
486
00:32:34,606 --> 00:32:37,896
Billions of eggs that amass
in large reddish swaths
487
00:32:37,901 --> 00:32:40,421
that are visible from the sky.
488
00:32:41,890 --> 00:32:44,770
Destined as food for
farmed fish, these eggs,
489
00:32:44,770 --> 00:32:48,210
called cysts, bring $125 million
490
00:32:48,205 --> 00:32:51,355
into the local economy each year.
491
00:32:54,774 --> 00:32:56,664
Dozens of boats attempt to make the most
492
00:32:56,662 --> 00:32:59,402
of these few months of
harvesting under the
493
00:32:59,403 --> 00:33:01,873
watchful eye of John Luft.
494
00:33:02,464 --> 00:33:05,344
- As we manage the brine shrimp fishery,
495
00:33:05,344 --> 00:33:08,924
we have the possibility of
496
00:33:08,917 --> 00:33:12,347
over-harvesting but also under-harvesting.
497
00:33:12,346 --> 00:33:15,056
So we rely heavily on the brine shrimpers
498
00:33:15,057 --> 00:33:18,487
to actually harvest
the exact right amount.
499
00:33:18,491 --> 00:33:20,491
That's what all of our
monitoring during the course
500
00:33:20,486 --> 00:33:22,706
of the season is for.
501
00:33:26,684 --> 00:33:29,364
To ensure the
sustainability of the resource,
502
00:33:29,360 --> 00:33:31,240
the harvesting of brine shrimp eggs
503
00:33:31,237 --> 00:33:33,597
must respect strict quotas.
504
00:33:35,770 --> 00:33:38,990
If too many cysts are
harvested, the next generation
505
00:33:38,991 --> 00:33:42,161
will have a hard time replenishing itself.
506
00:33:42,916 --> 00:33:44,956
But if not enough are
harvested, the adults
507
00:33:44,963 --> 00:33:47,023
will proliferate to an extent that could
508
00:33:47,023 --> 00:33:50,153
lead to a shortage of phytoplankton.
509
00:33:51,204 --> 00:33:52,844
This would prevent young brine shrimp
510
00:33:52,836 --> 00:33:56,576
from reaching maturity and
being able to reproduce.
511
00:34:02,787 --> 00:34:05,087
The cysts are incredible creatures.
512
00:34:05,090 --> 00:34:09,570
It takes 250,000 of them
to fill just one teaspoon.
513
00:34:09,571 --> 00:34:11,931
But they are astonishingly resilient.
514
00:34:16,272 --> 00:34:17,782
They can survive many years
515
00:34:17,776 --> 00:34:21,416
in a state of complete
dehydration, and are able
516
00:34:21,422 --> 00:34:24,992
to adapt to extremely
different salinity levels.
517
00:34:41,266 --> 00:34:44,206
Fishermen aren't the only ones
who appreciate the presence
518
00:34:44,205 --> 00:34:46,455
of these tiny shrimp
that play a major role
519
00:34:46,456 --> 00:34:48,856
in the ecosystem of the lake.
520
00:34:50,882 --> 00:34:53,932
Biologist Maureen Frank
has organized an expedition
521
00:34:53,932 --> 00:34:56,332
to study one of the largest and most
522
00:34:56,328 --> 00:34:59,628
prolific populations of
migratory birds on the lake,
523
00:34:59,631 --> 00:35:01,541
the Eared Grebe.
524
00:35:06,621 --> 00:35:09,301
Another sort of angling begins,
525
00:35:09,298 --> 00:35:10,818
for birds.
526
00:35:20,860 --> 00:35:24,320
- The reason that Eared
Grebes come to Great Salt Lake
527
00:35:24,316 --> 00:35:28,006
is to fuel up before migration.
528
00:35:28,005 --> 00:35:30,075
So they come here and they eat a lot.
529
00:35:30,082 --> 00:35:34,772
And when they get here,
they lose the ability to fly
530
00:35:34,766 --> 00:35:39,306
because their wing muscles get smaller
531
00:35:39,311 --> 00:35:42,431
and all of their digestive
organs get bigger,
532
00:35:42,426 --> 00:35:46,696
so that they can put on as
much weight as they can.
533
00:35:48,921 --> 00:35:50,191
It's a dream come true
534
00:35:50,190 --> 00:35:52,420
for the scientists studying them.
535
00:35:52,420 --> 00:35:54,940
The researchers drive about
a dozen into their net,
536
00:35:54,944 --> 00:35:57,954
which they will then
equip with transmitters.
537
00:35:57,957 --> 00:36:01,557
This will allow Maureen to
record the birds' movements.
538
00:36:04,325 --> 00:36:06,365
- We need to know how many are out there.
539
00:36:06,372 --> 00:36:08,802
We need to know what they're eating.
540
00:36:08,804 --> 00:36:11,094
We need to know where they're eating
541
00:36:11,090 --> 00:36:14,810
to ensure their long-term survival.
542
00:36:16,297 --> 00:36:20,177
Half of North America's
population of grebes
543
00:36:20,184 --> 00:36:22,404
comes here every year.
544
00:36:22,935 --> 00:36:25,115
- These transmitters are
helping us figure out
545
00:36:25,123 --> 00:36:27,013
how they move around the lake.
546
00:36:27,011 --> 00:36:29,911
While the eared grebes
are here, there's also
547
00:36:29,906 --> 00:36:31,966
harvest of brine shrimp cycts
548
00:36:31,973 --> 00:36:34,123
that's going on at the same time.
549
00:36:34,123 --> 00:36:36,583
So it's important for us to
know what parts of the lake
550
00:36:36,582 --> 00:36:39,762
are important to the birds so that we can
551
00:36:40,529 --> 00:36:42,659
make sure they still have places that are
552
00:36:42,662 --> 00:36:45,562
good for them to forage.
553
00:36:45,564 --> 00:36:48,074
And we monitor that, so
that we can have the birds
554
00:36:48,069 --> 00:36:52,479
stay healthy and have a
brine shrimp cyst industry.
555
00:37:01,852 --> 00:37:03,312
As valuable to the birds
556
00:37:03,308 --> 00:37:06,088
as to the fisherman, brine
shrimp are the lake's
557
00:37:06,089 --> 00:37:08,379
largest biological treasure.
558
00:37:10,331 --> 00:37:12,791
Without them, the Great
Salt Lake would not be the
559
00:37:12,794 --> 00:37:15,094
main stopping point for migrating birds
560
00:37:15,088 --> 00:37:17,468
in the southwestern United States.
561
00:37:24,918 --> 00:37:28,878
Fall is the best season to
discover Antelope Island.
562
00:37:29,508 --> 00:37:32,088
Located in the southeastern
part of the lake,
563
00:37:32,089 --> 00:37:35,779
the island, with its 40
fresh-water springs, is an oasis
564
00:37:35,780 --> 00:37:38,490
in the midst of the salt water desert.
565
00:37:39,310 --> 00:37:41,890
This makes it a natural
sanctuary for its remarkably
566
00:37:41,891 --> 00:37:45,541
diverse wildlife, which
includes the pronghorn,
567
00:37:45,539 --> 00:37:48,889
the only antelope
endemic to North America.
568
00:37:53,219 --> 00:37:55,539
The most surprising animal
that lives on the island
569
00:37:55,543 --> 00:37:59,123
was once found in
abundance on the continent.
570
00:38:08,779 --> 00:38:12,469
Just 200 years ago,
50,000 bison still roamed
571
00:38:12,470 --> 00:38:14,460
the American plains.
572
00:38:16,876 --> 00:38:19,886
But the arrival of the
pioneers proved fatal to them,
573
00:38:19,894 --> 00:38:23,314
and by 1890, hunting had
reduced the population
574
00:38:23,306 --> 00:38:25,646
to a mere few hundred.
575
00:38:31,371 --> 00:38:33,801
President Theodore Roosevelt
took the initiative
576
00:38:33,802 --> 00:38:36,012
of reintroducing the species in certain
577
00:38:36,010 --> 00:38:38,280
protected zones.
578
00:38:41,353 --> 00:38:46,273
- The bison actually came
in 1893 to the island.
579
00:38:46,270 --> 00:38:49,570
At that time, we brought 12 animals:
580
00:38:49,565 --> 00:38:52,765
four bulls, four cows, four calfs.
581
00:38:53,683 --> 00:38:55,723
So they felt that it was an isolated place
582
00:38:55,720 --> 00:38:57,440
that they could protect them.
583
00:39:08,684 --> 00:39:10,634
Today, over 600 bison live
584
00:39:10,630 --> 00:39:12,780
on Antelope Island.
585
00:39:12,777 --> 00:39:15,537
The largest herd in North America.
586
00:39:19,036 --> 00:39:21,816
Although few of its landscapes
resemble the arid plains
587
00:39:21,820 --> 00:39:25,250
of former Lake Bonneville, the
island remains a privileged
588
00:39:25,253 --> 00:39:28,543
spot for the protection
of a legendary creature.
589
00:39:29,808 --> 00:39:31,708
They are so prolific
here that there numbers
590
00:39:31,706 --> 00:39:33,826
need to be managed.
591
00:39:33,832 --> 00:39:36,282
This has spurred the Great Buffalo Roundup
592
00:39:36,282 --> 00:39:39,022
that is organized on the island each year.
593
00:39:40,763 --> 00:39:43,563
- Okay, when we get them
up into the corrals,
594
00:39:43,556 --> 00:39:46,356
they'll have fences on both sides.
595
00:39:46,362 --> 00:39:51,122
We've got to push 600 buffalo
through a 30-foot gate.
596
00:39:51,689 --> 00:39:54,209
So once they get going through the gate,
597
00:39:54,212 --> 00:39:57,222
back off and just let them go.
598
00:39:57,603 --> 00:40:00,403
Once we get 'em going, just take it easy,
599
00:40:00,402 --> 00:40:01,972
they'll all walk in.
600
00:40:06,454 --> 00:40:08,494
Each year,
hundreds of volunteers
601
00:40:08,491 --> 00:40:11,611
flock to Antelope Island
from across the United States
602
00:40:11,605 --> 00:40:13,885
to participate in the roundup.
603
00:40:17,963 --> 00:40:20,313
A number of bison will
have to leave the island,
604
00:40:20,309 --> 00:40:22,209
but which ones?
605
00:40:25,769 --> 00:40:27,739
The bison are herded towards corrals,
606
00:40:27,743 --> 00:40:29,703
where they can be examined and sorted.
607
00:40:38,938 --> 00:40:42,178
The enormous herd is
driven toward the pens.
608
00:40:51,933 --> 00:40:53,603
The bison are selected according to
609
00:40:53,600 --> 00:40:55,240
genetic criteria.
610
00:40:57,609 --> 00:40:59,839
- There's a lot of bison
these days that have
611
00:40:59,840 --> 00:41:02,820
bovine genes in them, bovine being cow.
612
00:41:02,815 --> 00:41:04,185
They're cattle genes.
613
00:41:04,192 --> 00:41:05,702
So what we want to do this year
614
00:41:05,696 --> 00:41:09,546
is auction off anything
that we find bovine in
615
00:41:09,547 --> 00:41:11,887
and to get a pure bison
herd, which would be
616
00:41:11,893 --> 00:41:14,033
fairly unique throughout the country.
617
00:41:20,138 --> 00:41:22,168
The bison
undergo medical examinations
618
00:41:22,165 --> 00:41:25,225
and DNA testing, the results
of which will determine
619
00:41:25,226 --> 00:41:27,586
which animals get to stay on the island
620
00:41:27,593 --> 00:41:30,073
and which ones must leave.
621
00:41:33,833 --> 00:41:36,353
The tests have revealed
that 99 percent of the bison
622
00:41:36,349 --> 00:41:39,869
on the island are free of
bovine genes, which actually
623
00:41:39,870 --> 00:41:43,290
makes them one of the
purest herds on Earth.
624
00:41:46,674 --> 00:41:49,144
More than ever, the
Antelope Island bison herd
625
00:41:49,139 --> 00:41:52,179
is a resource worthy of
protection in the exceptional
626
00:41:52,179 --> 00:41:55,519
habitat provided by the Great Salt Lake.
627
00:42:04,487 --> 00:42:06,247
Autumn is drawing to a close,
628
00:42:06,247 --> 00:42:10,187
and life in and along the
lake is gradually changing.
629
00:42:11,004 --> 00:42:15,464
In the north, the heavily-salted
water glistens bright pink,
630
00:42:15,463 --> 00:42:18,743
while in the south, the water
has been cleared of its algae
631
00:42:18,737 --> 00:42:21,447
and presents a clear blue shade.
632
00:42:29,766 --> 00:42:32,036
To the east, where the
fresh water from rivers
633
00:42:32,038 --> 00:42:34,658
blends with the lake's saltier water,
634
00:42:34,661 --> 00:42:37,711
we find a vast network of habitats.
635
00:42:42,298 --> 00:42:45,228
These wetlands are a refuge
for over 200 varieties
636
00:42:45,231 --> 00:42:49,321
of birds, but are also one
of the spots most susceptible
637
00:42:49,317 --> 00:42:51,697
to drops in water level.
638
00:42:52,634 --> 00:42:55,794
To survive in the shifting
conditions, animals, plants,
639
00:42:55,791 --> 00:42:59,881
and microorganisms need
to constantly adapt.
640
00:42:59,884 --> 00:43:02,784
All these life-forms depend
on the rhythm of the seasons
641
00:43:02,777 --> 00:43:05,147
and the water level in the lake.
642
00:43:05,454 --> 00:43:07,194
John Luft can't help but acknowledge
643
00:43:07,193 --> 00:43:10,503
that this ecosystem is
gradually drying up.
644
00:43:21,516 --> 00:43:23,716
As the season draws to a close, we find
645
00:43:23,724 --> 00:43:26,794
the largest bird population
up in the northeast,
646
00:43:26,785 --> 00:43:29,545
near Bear River Bay in the marshes,
647
00:43:29,548 --> 00:43:33,258
where the vegetation is lush
and the water less salty.
648
00:43:35,446 --> 00:43:38,936
Temperatures are dropping, and
the water will soon freeze.
649
00:43:38,935 --> 00:43:43,545
For some birds, this is their
last chance for a good meal.
650
00:43:47,061 --> 00:43:49,821
The Bear River Refuge
is the largest wetland
651
00:43:49,824 --> 00:43:52,254
in the Great Salt Lake ecosystem.
652
00:43:55,252 --> 00:43:58,292
For biologist Howard
Browers, it is time to take
653
00:43:58,293 --> 00:44:00,873
the final counts of the year.
654
00:44:09,001 --> 00:44:10,621
- Any idea what they are?
655
00:44:11,017 --> 00:44:12,557
- The ducks?
- Yeah.
656
00:44:13,801 --> 00:44:17,721
- It's probably a combination
of Pintail, Green-winged Teal.
657
00:44:22,770 --> 00:44:25,740
- This is a pretty neat
time to be on the refuge
658
00:44:25,735 --> 00:44:28,445
during the fall migration.
659
00:44:29,203 --> 00:44:32,543
I actually did a count
just a couple of days ago,
660
00:44:32,540 --> 00:44:36,260
and on this unit, we probably
had close to 40,000 birds,
661
00:44:36,260 --> 00:44:38,110
mostly ducks.
662
00:44:38,105 --> 00:44:42,735
In another six weeks or so,
the refuge will be frozen
663
00:44:42,739 --> 00:44:44,859
and then pretty much everything is gone.
664
00:44:49,502 --> 00:44:51,332
The resource we are trying to manage for
665
00:44:51,326 --> 00:44:55,296
is the amazing waterbird,
particularly resource shore birds
666
00:44:55,304 --> 00:44:58,844
that use the Bear River and
the Great Salt Lake ecosystem.
667
00:44:58,835 --> 00:45:03,255
All of these birds depend greatly on the
668
00:45:03,262 --> 00:45:06,472
Great Salt Lake ecosystem
for not only breeding
669
00:45:06,472 --> 00:45:09,182
but for feeding during migration
670
00:45:09,181 --> 00:45:12,841
and the Bear River is a
significant part of that.
671
00:45:18,769 --> 00:45:21,749
For man, as
well as for the wildlife,
672
00:45:21,745 --> 00:45:25,795
fresh water is a scarce
and coveted resource.
673
00:45:30,682 --> 00:45:34,632
The priority is rarely given
to the lake's ecosystem.
674
00:45:38,075 --> 00:45:42,075
- In the spring, when
irrigation season kicks in,
675
00:45:42,800 --> 00:45:46,590
our water right becomes
junior to the irrigators.
676
00:45:46,587 --> 00:45:49,487
And irrigators get to take
what they need from the river
677
00:45:49,488 --> 00:45:52,348
and then we basically
get what's left over.
678
00:45:52,353 --> 00:45:55,123
And so, some of our wetland
units can actually dry up
679
00:45:55,122 --> 00:45:56,722
in the late summer.
680
00:46:00,327 --> 00:46:01,557
90 percent of the water
681
00:46:01,560 --> 00:46:03,490
from the Bear River is intercepted
682
00:46:03,490 --> 00:46:06,080
and diverted into artificial canals
683
00:46:06,084 --> 00:46:08,494
used to irrigate farmlands.
684
00:46:12,557 --> 00:46:16,337
Millions of liters that
never make it to the lake.
685
00:46:17,901 --> 00:46:20,211
- All this diversion that's been going on
686
00:46:20,205 --> 00:46:23,785
has consequences for the lake in that
687
00:46:23,794 --> 00:46:25,504
the lake has been kinda going,
688
00:46:25,495 --> 00:46:26,945
I wouldn't say steadily down,
689
00:46:26,947 --> 00:46:29,037
it still has its ups
and downs when we have
690
00:46:29,038 --> 00:46:32,288
wet periods and dry periods, but overall,
691
00:46:32,290 --> 00:46:36,880
along that 150 year period,
the lake's been declining.
692
00:46:40,663 --> 00:46:41,613
The misfortunes of
693
00:46:41,608 --> 00:46:45,288
the Great Salt Lake are
not all due to agriculture.
694
00:46:45,293 --> 00:46:47,783
Urban development is also to blame.
695
00:46:50,857 --> 00:46:53,627
Salt Lake City is steadily growing.
696
00:46:58,305 --> 00:47:01,005
If the city keeps expanding
at its current rate,
697
00:47:01,014 --> 00:47:04,034
the population of the region
will hit nearly three million
698
00:47:04,032 --> 00:47:06,052
in ten years' time.
699
00:47:09,813 --> 00:47:12,003
This demographic growth
and its accompanying
700
00:47:12,001 --> 00:47:14,701
industrial and agricultural development
701
00:47:14,698 --> 00:47:17,618
considerably increase water needs
702
00:47:19,690 --> 00:47:22,370
to the detriment of the Great Salt Lake.
703
00:47:24,468 --> 00:47:26,928
- When I met the lake, it was much larger
704
00:47:26,932 --> 00:47:29,542
than it is today, and you've seen the lake
705
00:47:29,535 --> 00:47:32,315
going from very high to very low,
706
00:47:32,318 --> 00:47:37,028
and we could do very
serious and potentially
707
00:47:37,032 --> 00:47:41,342
catastrophic damage by not
allowing water to the lake.
708
00:47:44,798 --> 00:47:45,988
The Great Salt Lake
709
00:47:45,993 --> 00:47:48,193
struggles to strike an elusive balance
710
00:47:48,190 --> 00:47:51,460
between the needs of
man and those of nature.
711
00:48:11,348 --> 00:48:14,108
It is winter once more,
and the great migrations
712
00:48:14,110 --> 00:48:16,430
are drawing to a close.
713
00:48:19,527 --> 00:48:22,137
Indifferent to the
coming cold, a colony of
714
00:48:22,142 --> 00:48:26,572
10,000 tundra swans flocks
along the lake's shores.
715
00:48:27,901 --> 00:48:30,741
The bald eagle, legendary bird of prey and
716
00:48:30,738 --> 00:48:34,078
symbol of the United states,
sets up its winter quarters
717
00:48:34,077 --> 00:48:36,237
on the Great Salt Lake.
718
00:48:42,876 --> 00:48:45,456
The first snowfalls have capped
the surrounding mountains
719
00:48:45,457 --> 00:48:48,707
with white, but the
lake has barely changed.
720
00:48:50,962 --> 00:48:53,292
It will only be partially covered by ice,
721
00:48:53,287 --> 00:48:57,367
as its high salt content
keeps its water from freezing.
722
00:48:59,165 --> 00:49:02,855
Only certain areas along
the shores sometimes freeze,
723
00:49:02,855 --> 00:49:04,715
but rarely for long.
724
00:49:09,639 --> 00:49:12,519
The lake's unfrozen
water plays a huge role
725
00:49:12,519 --> 00:49:16,159
in the heavy snowfalls in
the surrounding mountains.
726
00:49:20,412 --> 00:49:23,852
Researcher Jim Steenburgh
discovered that these snows,
727
00:49:23,846 --> 00:49:27,236
sometimes in the form of
blizzards, are the result of
728
00:49:27,238 --> 00:49:31,698
a unique meteorological
phenomenon, the lake effect.
729
00:49:34,847 --> 00:49:37,937
- Up here at Snowbird gets
500 inches of snow a year,
730
00:49:37,937 --> 00:49:39,127
and some of that snow is produced
731
00:49:39,131 --> 00:49:41,241
by the Great Salt Lake effect.
732
00:49:41,243 --> 00:49:43,133
And the Great Salt Lake effect happens
733
00:49:43,131 --> 00:49:44,681
when you get cold air.
734
00:49:44,681 --> 00:49:47,541
Some of that snow is produced
by the Great Salt Lake.
735
00:49:47,540 --> 00:49:49,450
And sometimes during the winter time,
736
00:49:49,449 --> 00:49:52,509
we get these cold air
intrusions from the northwest.
737
00:49:52,510 --> 00:49:54,930
They move over the Great Salt Lake.
738
00:49:56,990 --> 00:49:58,780
The thermal
shock between the cold air
739
00:49:58,781 --> 00:50:01,961
from the north and the
damp, warm air of the lake
740
00:50:01,960 --> 00:50:04,560
creates spectacular snowfalls.
741
00:50:08,509 --> 00:50:09,869
- It really is the heating of the lake
742
00:50:09,865 --> 00:50:12,045
that drives these storms.
743
00:50:12,051 --> 00:50:15,151
Because that heating
destabilizes the atmosphere,
744
00:50:15,154 --> 00:50:17,304
and it drives these
land breeze circulations
745
00:50:17,299 --> 00:50:19,219
that come from the opposing shorelines,
746
00:50:19,219 --> 00:50:23,139
they converge and help trigger
these lake effect storms.
747
00:50:33,714 --> 00:50:35,174
Though slowed in winter,
748
00:50:35,174 --> 00:50:39,164
the biological cycle of the
Great Salt Lake continues.
749
00:50:40,596 --> 00:50:42,846
Little by little, the lake takes on its
750
00:50:42,854 --> 00:50:45,934
characteristic green hue once again.
751
00:50:45,926 --> 00:50:48,616
It prepares for its next rebirth.
752
00:50:49,425 --> 00:50:53,495
In a few months' time,
a new cycle will begin.
753
00:50:56,901 --> 00:50:59,341
The thick blanket of snow
covering the mountains
754
00:50:59,344 --> 00:51:02,594
will melt and add water to the lake.
755
00:51:03,290 --> 00:51:05,450
The brine shrimp will be born again,
756
00:51:05,445 --> 00:51:07,695
and the migrating birds, back once more,
757
00:51:07,695 --> 00:51:09,955
will enjoy their feast.
758
00:51:13,786 --> 00:51:17,586
The Great Salt Lake, little
known and often unpopular,
759
00:51:17,594 --> 00:51:20,794
will once more prove that,
in reality, it is the
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00:51:20,793 --> 00:51:24,953
generous protector of
an immense biodiversity.
61008
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