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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:04,696 --> 00:00:07,036 Lakes are living creatures. 2 00:00:10,785 --> 00:00:13,115 These precious reserves of water 3 00:00:13,115 --> 00:00:17,275 live and die according to distinct natural cycles. 4 00:00:19,942 --> 00:00:22,272 Their peaceful waters seem dormant 5 00:00:22,266 --> 00:00:25,226 yet they teem with mysterious life. 6 00:00:29,392 --> 00:00:32,492 Lakes only reveal themselves to the men and women 7 00:00:32,485 --> 00:00:36,165 who take time to patiently linger beside their shores. 8 00:00:36,847 --> 00:00:40,747 Together, we are going to discover their secrets. 9 00:00:48,366 --> 00:00:51,286 Surrounded by large stretches of arid land, 10 00:00:51,289 --> 00:00:53,959 and looming mountains, the Great Salt Lake 11 00:00:53,955 --> 00:00:57,845 is sometimes called America's Dead Sea. 12 00:00:59,949 --> 00:01:04,189 It's salt content is so high, it seems unfit for life. 13 00:01:08,782 --> 00:01:12,142 Nevertheless, millions of birds flock along its shores 14 00:01:12,142 --> 00:01:14,092 to feed and mate. 15 00:01:17,229 --> 00:01:20,059 Though its water is saltier than the ocean, 16 00:01:20,057 --> 00:01:22,737 the lake is a complex ecosystem, 17 00:01:22,745 --> 00:01:24,725 home to amazing creatures 18 00:01:24,731 --> 00:01:28,041 and filled with unsuspected treasures. 19 00:01:31,712 --> 00:01:35,052 How can such incredibly diverse lifeforms have flourished 20 00:01:35,052 --> 00:01:38,602 in an environment as extreme as this? 21 00:01:56,532 --> 00:01:59,552 Located in the northern part of Utah, one of the driest 22 00:01:59,551 --> 00:02:03,011 states in the US, the Great Salt Lake covers an area 23 00:02:03,006 --> 00:02:06,106 of more than 4400 square kilometers. 24 00:02:09,277 --> 00:02:11,007 Nearly two million people live 25 00:02:11,008 --> 00:02:12,538 in the region surrounding it. 26 00:02:15,788 --> 00:02:17,838 A biologist at Westminster College, 27 00:02:17,843 --> 00:02:20,563 Jaimi Butler has devoted herself to the study 28 00:02:20,563 --> 00:02:23,503 and protection of the Great Salt Lake. 29 00:02:23,496 --> 00:02:25,806 - I grew up here in Salt Lake, 30 00:02:25,808 --> 00:02:29,268 and I'm an avid Great Salt Lake lover. 31 00:02:29,273 --> 00:02:30,823 I'm passionate about it. 32 00:02:32,409 --> 00:02:36,319 We were taught that Great Salt Lake isn't so great, 33 00:02:36,322 --> 00:02:40,342 that it smells, that it's buggy, that it's a dead lake, 34 00:02:40,342 --> 00:02:42,512 that nothing lives here, 35 00:02:42,510 --> 00:02:45,090 that there's no value in the lake at all. 36 00:02:45,092 --> 00:02:48,722 Great Salt Lake has a lot of different microenvironments. 37 00:02:48,717 --> 00:02:51,827 So even though Great Salt Lake is salty, there are 38 00:02:51,832 --> 00:02:55,362 lots of things that have adapted over time 39 00:02:55,362 --> 00:02:58,882 to live and thrive in its salty waters. 40 00:03:05,598 --> 00:03:07,908 The Great Salt Lake region regularly receives 41 00:03:07,912 --> 00:03:11,462 heavy rains blowing in from the Pacific Ocean. 42 00:03:18,259 --> 00:03:21,789 How is it then, that the lake's water is so salty? 43 00:03:26,456 --> 00:03:29,816 The reasons for this lie in the mountains surrounding it. 44 00:03:32,655 --> 00:03:35,485 In spring, the snow and ice that have accumulated 45 00:03:35,494 --> 00:03:37,864 over the winter begin to melt. 46 00:03:38,353 --> 00:03:41,033 An extraordinary amount of water gushes down 47 00:03:41,025 --> 00:03:44,145 the mountain slopes and into the rivers that feed the lake. 48 00:03:45,134 --> 00:03:48,264 And yet, this exceptionally pure water changes 49 00:03:48,258 --> 00:03:50,358 long before it reaches the lake. 50 00:03:54,844 --> 00:03:58,094 It is a phenomenon that limnologist Wayne Wurtsbaugh, 51 00:03:58,087 --> 00:04:00,317 who has been studying the lake for over 30 years, 52 00:04:00,316 --> 00:04:02,606 is very familiar with. 53 00:04:03,505 --> 00:04:06,635 - One of the reasons the Great Salt Lake is salty 54 00:04:06,641 --> 00:04:10,731 is because these rocks behind me weather through time. 55 00:04:12,157 --> 00:04:15,117 These, over tens of thousans of years, break down, 56 00:04:15,122 --> 00:04:18,022 release calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, 57 00:04:18,023 --> 00:04:20,213 sodium chloride. 58 00:04:20,209 --> 00:04:23,099 These flow down into the Great Salt Lake, 59 00:04:23,097 --> 00:04:26,467 and if it was a normal lake with an outflow, 60 00:04:26,472 --> 00:04:28,682 those salts would just flow on and eventually 61 00:04:28,679 --> 00:04:30,489 make it to the ocean. 62 00:04:30,493 --> 00:04:32,493 But Great Salt Lake is a terminal lake, 63 00:04:32,490 --> 00:04:34,960 which means the only way the water leaves 64 00:04:34,964 --> 00:04:38,274 is via evaporation up into the atmosphere. 65 00:04:38,269 --> 00:04:41,039 When that happens, the salts are left behind, 66 00:04:41,039 --> 00:04:44,769 and we wind up with a salt lake. 67 00:04:50,547 --> 00:04:53,147 Since the lake is a closed circuit system, 68 00:04:53,149 --> 00:04:55,379 a phenomenal quantity of mineral salts have 69 00:04:55,379 --> 00:04:58,209 accumulated over the centuries. 70 00:04:58,610 --> 00:05:01,750 Two million tons more salt arrive each year, 71 00:05:01,746 --> 00:05:04,176 to the delight of industrials who've managed 72 00:05:04,175 --> 00:05:05,925 to turn it into a profit. 73 00:05:11,390 --> 00:05:14,300 With its water much too salty for any use, 74 00:05:14,302 --> 00:05:17,232 this unpopular lake must have been quite a disappointment 75 00:05:17,225 --> 00:05:21,005 to the pioneers who settled here in 1847. 76 00:05:26,045 --> 00:05:29,155 Nevertheless, with advanced irrigation techniques, 77 00:05:29,158 --> 00:05:32,198 these persevering farmers managed to transform 78 00:05:32,200 --> 00:05:34,910 part of the arid terrain into fertile land 79 00:05:34,908 --> 00:05:37,498 and founded Salt Lake City. 80 00:05:44,869 --> 00:05:47,959 After their settlement, came the building of the railroad, 81 00:05:47,962 --> 00:05:51,672 and a causeway spanning the lake from East to West. 82 00:06:06,993 --> 00:06:09,463 This massive construction has had a considerable 83 00:06:09,457 --> 00:06:12,587 impact on water flow in the lake. 84 00:06:15,376 --> 00:06:18,186 When seen from the air, today's Great Salt Lake 85 00:06:18,192 --> 00:06:22,042 looks odd, as if a line had been drawn straight across, 86 00:06:22,043 --> 00:06:25,943 dividing it into two distinct parts of different colors. 87 00:06:26,501 --> 00:06:29,521 The railroad causeway has created two disconnected parts 88 00:06:29,519 --> 00:06:31,919 of contrasting hues. 89 00:06:39,150 --> 00:06:41,830 - We're standing on the shore of the north arm 90 00:06:41,828 --> 00:06:43,148 of the Great Salt Lake. 91 00:06:43,150 --> 00:06:45,210 You can see the pink water. 92 00:06:49,250 --> 00:06:52,300 Gonna take a sample here 93 00:06:53,242 --> 00:06:56,232 and measure the salinity of the water with something 94 00:06:56,226 --> 00:06:58,536 called a refractometer. 95 00:07:01,609 --> 00:07:04,199 I can look through this and see a line 96 00:07:04,200 --> 00:07:06,100 that tells me what the salinity is. 97 00:07:06,103 --> 00:07:10,093 And, as expected, it's about 30 percent 98 00:07:10,085 --> 00:07:12,025 salt by weight. 99 00:07:12,029 --> 00:07:13,749 You can compare that with the ocean, 100 00:07:13,751 --> 00:07:16,241 that's about, oh, 101 00:07:17,241 --> 00:07:19,941 close to 10 times what the ocean is. 102 00:07:23,214 --> 00:07:24,724 North of the causeway, 103 00:07:24,719 --> 00:07:28,949 there is practically no fresh water that enters the lake. 104 00:07:28,952 --> 00:07:32,642 The occasional rains cannot make up for solar evaporation. 105 00:07:37,282 --> 00:07:40,162 Nevertheless, despite the extremely high salinity 106 00:07:40,162 --> 00:07:43,162 of this environment, cut off from the rest of the lake, 107 00:07:43,159 --> 00:07:46,589 it is not completely devoid of life. 108 00:07:48,641 --> 00:07:52,261 - We have bacteria in here, and we have green algae, 109 00:07:52,257 --> 00:07:54,857 but even the green algae have red pigments that help 110 00:07:54,860 --> 00:07:58,860 protect from the sunlight, and so the water looks pink. 111 00:07:58,860 --> 00:08:01,620 And if we were to go to the other side of the causeway, 112 00:08:01,624 --> 00:08:06,164 just 30 meters away, it looks green, 113 00:08:06,160 --> 00:08:08,500 so it's really a striking difference, 114 00:08:08,501 --> 00:08:10,951 and a whole different community over there. 115 00:08:14,849 --> 00:08:16,379 The reason the water is green 116 00:08:16,384 --> 00:08:19,724 south of the causeway, is that its salinity is much lower 117 00:08:19,723 --> 00:08:22,053 than the water to the north. 118 00:08:22,690 --> 00:08:26,420 This is where the three major tributaries flow in, 119 00:08:26,774 --> 00:08:31,184 the Jordan, Weber, and Bear Rivers. 120 00:08:33,721 --> 00:08:37,291 Here, the salinity is only 15 percent, a tolerable 121 00:08:37,294 --> 00:08:40,824 level that makes it possible for life to develop. 122 00:08:45,816 --> 00:08:48,436 Located on one of the main migratory routes in western 123 00:08:48,440 --> 00:08:52,230 North America, the Great Salt Lake is a strategic stopover 124 00:08:52,230 --> 00:08:56,420 for millions of birds migrating north in spring. 125 00:09:02,231 --> 00:09:05,091 Some merely pass through, while others, such as 126 00:09:05,089 --> 00:09:08,409 the White-faced ibis, build their nests and raise 127 00:09:08,407 --> 00:09:10,607 their young in the marshes. 128 00:09:15,232 --> 00:09:18,682 As summer approaches, American avocets seek food 129 00:09:18,678 --> 00:09:22,498 in the areas exposed by the drop in water level. 130 00:09:23,745 --> 00:09:27,815 Survival in this shifting habitat is a constant struggle. 131 00:09:29,793 --> 00:09:32,783 But it is north of the causeway that we find one of the 132 00:09:32,778 --> 00:09:35,898 most hostile environments of the lake. 133 00:09:55,081 --> 00:09:58,261 On this hot July morning, a motley procession 134 00:09:58,257 --> 00:10:00,767 comes rolling down the causeway. 135 00:10:07,447 --> 00:10:11,717 Summoned by biologist John Luft, a group of 30 volunteers 136 00:10:11,723 --> 00:10:14,393 are about to brave the ultra-salty waters 137 00:10:14,386 --> 00:10:16,156 of the north part of the lake. 138 00:10:16,502 --> 00:10:18,542 - We wanna get done before it gets too hot. 139 00:10:18,539 --> 00:10:21,399 Also there's a storm supposed to come in this afternoon 140 00:10:21,398 --> 00:10:24,248 maybe, so if we can get off the water before the wind 141 00:10:24,252 --> 00:10:27,152 picks back up, then that would be great. 142 00:10:30,805 --> 00:10:33,605 The group's destination, Gunnison Island, 143 00:10:33,609 --> 00:10:37,509 over 35 kilometers away from their launch point. 144 00:10:50,440 --> 00:10:53,260 John Luft is in charge of several research programs 145 00:10:53,256 --> 00:10:55,126 on the Great Salt Lake. 146 00:10:57,335 --> 00:11:00,005 Each year, he heads to Gunnison Island to carry out 147 00:11:00,012 --> 00:11:01,722 a delicate mission. 148 00:11:05,750 --> 00:11:08,140 - There is very few people who has set foot 149 00:11:08,140 --> 00:11:09,950 on this island. 150 00:11:13,451 --> 00:11:14,851 Surrounded by the pink waters 151 00:11:14,848 --> 00:11:17,128 of the north part of the lake, the island 152 00:11:17,130 --> 00:11:19,810 is particularly inhospitable. 153 00:11:19,806 --> 00:11:23,426 No trees here, only rocks and salt. 154 00:11:31,304 --> 00:11:32,974 - Yeah, go ahead. 155 00:11:32,996 --> 00:11:34,336 It looks like one of them 156 00:11:34,338 --> 00:11:36,808 moved out of the shore. 157 00:11:36,811 --> 00:11:40,271 - Yeah, we don't see 'em here, but are you ready 158 00:11:40,267 --> 00:11:42,067 for us to come over? 159 00:11:42,453 --> 00:11:43,973 Ready pretty quick. 160 00:11:44,213 --> 00:11:46,183 - All right, we're on our way. 161 00:11:48,138 --> 00:11:49,508 Okay, go ahead. 162 00:11:54,233 --> 00:11:55,363 The team have spotted the object 163 00:11:55,363 --> 00:11:58,483 thousands of young pelicans 164 00:11:58,478 --> 00:12:01,928 that hatched on the island a few months earlier. 165 00:12:07,085 --> 00:12:09,775 Each year, over 10,000 American white pelicans, 166 00:12:09,784 --> 00:12:13,664 close to 20 percent of this bird's world population, 167 00:12:13,658 --> 00:12:16,848 stop in this extreme habitat to breed. 168 00:12:23,725 --> 00:12:26,925 For these birds, Gunnison Island is a sanctuary, 169 00:12:26,925 --> 00:12:30,505 protected from the exterior world by ultra-salty water 170 00:12:30,509 --> 00:12:33,169 that no predator would dare cross. 171 00:12:40,140 --> 00:12:44,150 The clumsy young pelicans haven't learned how to fly yet. 172 00:12:44,850 --> 00:12:46,450 Their parents have left them on their own 173 00:12:46,448 --> 00:12:48,548 to go search for food. 174 00:12:54,014 --> 00:12:56,894 This leaves the scientists with only a few hours to band 175 00:12:56,894 --> 00:13:00,394 the young birds before the adults get back. 176 00:13:04,109 --> 00:13:07,709 - It's important for these birds as protection 177 00:13:07,714 --> 00:13:12,234 for nesting area, not so much as a food source. 178 00:13:12,226 --> 00:13:14,756 The closest food source to Gunnison Island is 179 00:13:14,755 --> 00:13:19,135 Bear River Bay, which is about 30 miles east of us. 180 00:13:25,527 --> 00:13:27,737 Here in the bay's less salty waters, 181 00:13:27,735 --> 00:13:29,445 the pelicans catch fish they can then 182 00:13:29,452 --> 00:13:31,632 bring back to their young. 183 00:13:34,635 --> 00:13:38,735 Safe on their island, the young pelicans wait impatiently. 184 00:13:40,203 --> 00:13:43,343 - We like to track them, and the easiest way to do that 185 00:13:43,339 --> 00:13:45,929 is using these patagial markers, because they're 186 00:13:45,929 --> 00:13:49,269 really visible outside the wing, and 187 00:13:49,268 --> 00:13:51,238 a lot of bird watchers can see them, 188 00:13:51,241 --> 00:13:54,141 and we don't need the bird to die to actually 189 00:13:54,142 --> 00:13:58,302 get a return from an observance from these birds. 190 00:14:00,851 --> 00:14:02,391 These markers have already enabled 191 00:14:02,388 --> 00:14:05,538 scientists to solve a few mysteries. 192 00:14:06,825 --> 00:14:08,505 We now have a better understanding 193 00:14:08,509 --> 00:14:11,069 of the journeys made by the pelicans and 194 00:14:11,070 --> 00:14:13,750 where they go to find food. 195 00:14:15,410 --> 00:14:17,520 - And we have record, through the banding record, 196 00:14:17,523 --> 00:14:20,133 the bands that we're putting on, that show the travel. 197 00:14:20,125 --> 00:14:23,165 Pelicans will travel up to 300 miles, 198 00:14:24,095 --> 00:14:27,025 round trip, just to forage and bring food 199 00:14:27,027 --> 00:14:28,737 back to the chicks. 200 00:14:31,602 --> 00:14:35,002 It isn't easy to catch the young pelicans. 201 00:14:36,498 --> 00:14:39,398 The volunteers need to pick up the pace, since the adults 202 00:14:39,399 --> 00:14:42,209 are already on their way back. 203 00:14:49,458 --> 00:14:51,568 The scientists hope their markers will help them 204 00:14:51,574 --> 00:14:55,084 understand why only 25 percent of the young 205 00:14:55,083 --> 00:14:57,213 survive each year. 206 00:15:07,488 --> 00:15:10,758 The work is completed in the nick of time. 207 00:15:10,762 --> 00:15:15,282 At last, the adult pelicans can feed their famished chicks. 208 00:15:22,228 --> 00:15:24,948 For the moment, Gunnison Island offers pelicans 209 00:15:24,948 --> 00:15:27,048 the perfect refuge. 210 00:15:27,045 --> 00:15:29,855 But this might not always be the case. 211 00:15:32,053 --> 00:15:35,323 Scientists have noted that since the 1990s, 212 00:15:35,320 --> 00:15:38,870 the level of the lake has been diminishing regularly. 213 00:15:39,338 --> 00:15:41,308 Some of them fear that the trend, 214 00:15:41,312 --> 00:15:44,022 partially attributable to global warming, 215 00:15:44,020 --> 00:15:46,900 will only intensify in the future. 216 00:15:48,129 --> 00:15:50,729 One day, it may very well be possible for predators 217 00:15:50,730 --> 00:15:53,490 to reach the pelican sanctuary. 218 00:16:03,744 --> 00:16:06,274 To understand what the future holds, 219 00:16:06,272 --> 00:16:09,282 sometimes we need to look to the past. 220 00:16:15,370 --> 00:16:20,010 150 kilometers west of the lake lies a vast plain of salt. 221 00:16:20,941 --> 00:16:23,821 It is one of the flattest zones on Earth and the ideal 222 00:16:23,821 --> 00:16:27,051 place for heading back in time to the origins of 223 00:16:27,053 --> 00:16:29,023 the Great Salt Lake. 224 00:16:39,030 --> 00:16:40,760 - Here we are, Geneviève. 225 00:16:41,324 --> 00:16:43,714 - Sunrise on Great Salt Lake. 226 00:16:43,710 --> 00:16:46,230 Well, it isn't really Great Salt Lake, 227 00:16:46,232 --> 00:16:49,002 we're at the Bonneville Salt Flats. 228 00:16:49,002 --> 00:16:52,692 It's the climate change of hot and dry 229 00:16:52,690 --> 00:16:57,050 versus wet and cool that makes this place 230 00:16:57,051 --> 00:16:59,911 just be a total contrast. 231 00:17:02,881 --> 00:17:03,931 This place was once 232 00:17:03,931 --> 00:17:06,301 an immense expanse of water, 233 00:17:06,300 --> 00:17:09,670 Lake Bonneville, the precursor to the Great Salt Lake. 234 00:17:09,669 --> 00:17:11,609 - So we'll start with this one. 235 00:17:11,610 --> 00:17:16,440 30,000 years ago, climate changed, globally, 236 00:17:16,442 --> 00:17:20,302 and we went into a colder, wetter environment 237 00:17:20,303 --> 00:17:21,923 here in North America. 238 00:17:21,924 --> 00:17:26,104 It only took, probably, fewer than a hundred years 239 00:17:26,100 --> 00:17:29,990 for it to go from Salt Lake to Wendover. 240 00:17:29,993 --> 00:17:32,713 This is big changes. 241 00:17:37,033 --> 00:17:41,103 It was a large lake, about the size of Lake Superior, 242 00:17:41,097 --> 00:17:44,997 and that lasted for about 20,000 years. 243 00:17:46,519 --> 00:17:48,809 At it's highest level, Lake Bonneville 244 00:17:48,809 --> 00:17:51,609 covered nearly two thirds of Utah. 245 00:17:52,617 --> 00:17:55,647 This gigantic reservoir contained a hundred times 246 00:17:55,648 --> 00:17:58,858 more water than the current lake, 247 00:17:58,874 --> 00:18:01,274 until a cataclysm took place. 248 00:18:03,716 --> 00:18:06,846 - We had this failure that everybody's enamored of, 249 00:18:06,853 --> 00:18:07,963 I am too. 250 00:18:07,962 --> 00:18:10,542 It's called the Bonneville Flood, 251 00:18:10,538 --> 00:18:14,938 and its outpouring, this was this whole lake 252 00:18:14,937 --> 00:18:18,987 dropped 300 feet in less than a year. 253 00:18:21,155 --> 00:18:23,045 The natural barrier retaining the water 254 00:18:23,054 --> 00:18:26,684 in the north part of the lake abruptly gave way. 255 00:18:28,440 --> 00:18:30,410 - Either there was an earthquake or a landslide, 256 00:18:30,413 --> 00:18:34,023 or any number of things happened, and it failed. 257 00:18:34,018 --> 00:18:37,148 And once it failed , just like butter, 258 00:18:37,154 --> 00:18:39,474 it just went right through it. 259 00:18:39,470 --> 00:18:43,650 It equals all of today's rivers combined, 260 00:18:43,650 --> 00:18:47,010 the Ganges, the Amazon, the Mississippi. 261 00:18:52,289 --> 00:18:54,059 With all the water that drained out, 262 00:18:54,059 --> 00:18:56,789 the level of the lake radically diminished, leaving 263 00:18:56,789 --> 00:19:00,759 traces on the landscape that can still be seen today. 264 00:19:03,339 --> 00:19:06,589 Next, the climate began to warm up, and the enormous 265 00:19:06,588 --> 00:19:09,668 Lake Bonneville gradually evaporated, 266 00:19:09,667 --> 00:19:13,047 slowly changing into a desert of salt. 267 00:19:16,054 --> 00:19:19,284 Today, the only remnant of this former inland sea 268 00:19:19,276 --> 00:19:21,486 is the Great Salt Lake. 269 00:19:23,746 --> 00:19:25,886 On a smaller scale, the fluctuations 270 00:19:25,890 --> 00:19:28,230 in water level have continued. 271 00:19:28,439 --> 00:19:31,339 From one year to the next, from one season to another, 272 00:19:31,340 --> 00:19:33,580 the lake level varies. 273 00:19:33,590 --> 00:19:35,680 This is easy to see when you compare two photos 274 00:19:35,682 --> 00:19:38,122 taken two decades apart. 275 00:19:39,190 --> 00:19:42,090 - So this image is from the 1960s, 276 00:19:42,091 --> 00:19:45,211 this image from the 1980s. 277 00:19:45,206 --> 00:19:46,266 What do you want to do first? 278 00:19:46,273 --> 00:19:47,833 - I'd like to go to Antelope Island. 279 00:19:47,829 --> 00:19:49,689 - Antelope Island is here. 280 00:19:49,685 --> 00:19:52,515 Notice that it isn't an island. 281 00:19:52,522 --> 00:19:56,632 - In my picture, Farmington Bay is huge. 282 00:19:56,629 --> 00:19:59,159 - Stansbury, not an island. 283 00:19:59,157 --> 00:20:00,267 How about on yours? 284 00:20:00,267 --> 00:20:01,577 - Yeah, mine's an island. 285 00:20:01,579 --> 00:20:02,909 Aren't you special? 286 00:20:02,912 --> 00:20:05,112 I wanna do Bear River Bird Refuge. 287 00:20:05,105 --> 00:20:07,205 No water, empty. 288 00:20:09,647 --> 00:20:12,477 Barely 20 years separate these two pictures, 289 00:20:12,477 --> 00:20:14,827 yet the difference is blatant. 290 00:20:14,825 --> 00:20:18,025 Islands become peninsulas, then return 291 00:20:18,028 --> 00:20:20,528 to being islands once more. 292 00:20:21,974 --> 00:20:25,014 In this flat shallow lake, the slightest shift 293 00:20:25,014 --> 00:20:28,294 in water level changes the shape of the shoreline, 294 00:20:28,287 --> 00:20:31,987 causes floods, or dries up entire habitats. 295 00:20:34,164 --> 00:20:37,744 The lower the water level, the higher the salinity. 296 00:20:39,200 --> 00:20:41,700 Each fluctuation of the Great Salt Lake 297 00:20:41,701 --> 00:20:43,791 has immediate consequences. 298 00:20:50,047 --> 00:20:52,667 In the north part of the lake, an amazing sculpture 299 00:20:52,671 --> 00:20:56,751 appears and disappears, in keeping with these variations. 300 00:20:58,216 --> 00:21:01,436 Spiral Jetty, Robert Smithson's work of land art, 301 00:21:01,440 --> 00:21:05,190 required several tons of basalt and rock to create. 302 00:21:09,630 --> 00:21:13,040 - I remember the first time I came out here with students, 303 00:21:13,043 --> 00:21:15,453 the water level was so high, 304 00:21:15,446 --> 00:21:18,726 that we canoed over Spiral Jetty. 305 00:21:19,343 --> 00:21:22,603 We couldn't even see it under the water. 306 00:21:22,596 --> 00:21:25,766 - Spiral Jetty is a very artistic water gauge. 307 00:21:25,765 --> 00:21:28,735 - It is that, and now I can't believe we're walking on it, 308 00:21:28,736 --> 00:21:30,376 it's dry as a bone. 309 00:21:33,076 --> 00:21:34,586 Bonnie Baxter, a biologist 310 00:21:34,591 --> 00:21:36,981 with Westminster College is an expert 311 00:21:36,979 --> 00:21:39,479 in the lake's microorganisms. 312 00:21:42,292 --> 00:21:44,832 For her, the Spiral Jetty area amounts 313 00:21:44,831 --> 00:21:47,841 to a true outdoor laboratory. 314 00:21:50,067 --> 00:21:53,087 - What we're out here to do today 315 00:21:53,085 --> 00:21:55,995 are find microorganism that can live 316 00:21:55,997 --> 00:21:58,227 dried up in salt crystals, 317 00:21:58,228 --> 00:22:03,148 because some seasons we find very little water, 318 00:22:03,720 --> 00:22:07,590 and we know that the microbes are still alive. 319 00:22:11,355 --> 00:22:14,565 The microbes that live here have learned to 320 00:22:14,565 --> 00:22:19,475 pump the salt out and to make things inside their cells 321 00:22:19,483 --> 00:22:22,533 to compensate, like lipids or sugars 322 00:22:22,526 --> 00:22:25,196 to balance their membranes in the water. 323 00:22:25,199 --> 00:22:28,499 And so they have these special secrets for life 324 00:22:28,495 --> 00:22:31,935 in this place, and what we find is 325 00:22:31,935 --> 00:22:34,785 the microbial community that's here in June 326 00:22:34,788 --> 00:22:37,438 is different than the microbial community 327 00:22:37,450 --> 00:22:39,220 that's here in October. 328 00:22:40,336 --> 00:22:42,146 And sometimes we see new microbes, 329 00:22:42,149 --> 00:22:45,099 new species we've never seen before. 330 00:22:45,098 --> 00:22:47,788 So if you follow the lake over time, 331 00:22:47,791 --> 00:22:50,881 you will find the microbial diversity changes, 332 00:22:50,884 --> 00:22:52,514 which is beautiful. 333 00:22:55,138 --> 00:22:57,528 It's surprising to me that so many people think 334 00:22:57,527 --> 00:22:59,397 there's no life in this lake. 335 00:23:01,124 --> 00:23:03,714 Cultured in a laboratory for several months, 336 00:23:03,705 --> 00:23:06,795 the samples taken by the scientists have allowed them 337 00:23:06,799 --> 00:23:09,639 to understand why the lake changes color 338 00:23:09,636 --> 00:23:12,276 from one season to the next. 339 00:23:12,282 --> 00:23:15,562 - As the lake gets more concentrated 340 00:23:15,558 --> 00:23:20,408 in a species under the genera of halobacteria, 341 00:23:20,418 --> 00:23:23,158 we would see a purpley color. 342 00:23:23,164 --> 00:23:26,854 If it were more concentrated in an algae we call 343 00:23:26,853 --> 00:23:31,023 dunaliella salina, it would be more like my shirt, 344 00:23:31,024 --> 00:23:33,534 it would be more of an orange color. 345 00:23:36,941 --> 00:23:39,081 So this is evidence, just visually, 346 00:23:39,077 --> 00:23:41,797 of changing microbial communities. 347 00:23:46,522 --> 00:23:48,592 The bacteria give the lake its stupendous 348 00:23:48,591 --> 00:23:51,691 colors, but also provide the main source of food 349 00:23:51,686 --> 00:23:55,166 for other creatures, which are just as strange. 350 00:23:57,904 --> 00:24:00,394 In the south part, a large proportion of the 351 00:24:00,389 --> 00:24:04,309 biodiversity depends on the tiny organisms that thrive there 352 00:24:04,313 --> 00:24:06,333 in spite of the salt. 353 00:24:09,559 --> 00:24:12,389 On this day in early summer, Kyle Stone is 354 00:24:12,386 --> 00:24:14,726 taking samples that are of the utmost 355 00:24:14,732 --> 00:24:17,212 importance for biologists. 356 00:24:21,217 --> 00:24:23,867 What he's collecting are tiny crustaceans called 357 00:24:23,867 --> 00:24:25,477 brine shrimp. 358 00:24:27,179 --> 00:24:29,109 These creatures play a crucial role 359 00:24:29,109 --> 00:24:31,609 in the lake's biological cycle. 360 00:24:32,405 --> 00:24:34,235 - We collect these samples to determine the 361 00:24:34,240 --> 00:24:36,200 number of shrimp throughout the lake 362 00:24:36,203 --> 00:24:38,103 per liter of lake water, and we use that 363 00:24:38,102 --> 00:24:39,892 for management purposes, 364 00:24:39,894 --> 00:24:42,824 to manage the brine shrimp harvest season. 365 00:24:45,932 --> 00:24:47,662 Brine shrimp provide food 366 00:24:47,660 --> 00:24:49,980 for several varieties of birds, 367 00:24:49,982 --> 00:24:53,432 and are remarkable creatures in and of themselves. 368 00:24:55,618 --> 00:24:58,198 By evacuating the salt they absorb, they're able 369 00:24:58,199 --> 00:25:00,819 to survive in water with a mineral concentration 370 00:25:00,823 --> 00:25:02,883 of over 50 percent. 371 00:25:07,649 --> 00:25:09,639 The eggs they lay can survive temperatures 372 00:25:09,644 --> 00:25:12,914 higher than 100 degrees Celsius. 373 00:25:16,278 --> 00:25:18,928 In summer, brine shrimp feed on the green algae 374 00:25:18,934 --> 00:25:21,994 that proliferate in the lake during the winter. 375 00:25:22,944 --> 00:25:25,734 They act as filters, removing the algae from the water 376 00:25:25,728 --> 00:25:27,978 in a few months' time. 377 00:25:29,994 --> 00:25:32,404 This explains why the water gradually loses 378 00:25:32,403 --> 00:25:35,483 its green color and even ends up a veering blue 379 00:25:35,476 --> 00:25:37,066 in the fall. 380 00:25:48,848 --> 00:25:51,168 But the amazing brine shrimp are not the only 381 00:25:51,172 --> 00:25:54,052 secret harbored by the Great Salt Lake. 382 00:25:56,538 --> 00:25:58,858 One part of the shoreline seems to be made up 383 00:25:58,862 --> 00:26:01,852 of strange living rocks that Wayne Wurtsbaugh 384 00:26:01,849 --> 00:26:04,049 knows quite a lot about. 385 00:26:09,240 --> 00:26:13,110 This is a stromatolite, which looks a lot like rock, 386 00:26:13,107 --> 00:26:14,767 and, in fact, it really is rock. 387 00:26:14,765 --> 00:26:16,795 But it's formed by life, 388 00:26:16,803 --> 00:26:21,333 and the life that forms it is the cyanobacteria. 389 00:26:21,326 --> 00:26:25,446 It's a type very similar to algae, and because of the 390 00:26:25,454 --> 00:26:27,884 cyanobacteria in the solid substrate, 391 00:26:27,875 --> 00:26:30,715 we have brine flies growing on this. 392 00:26:35,037 --> 00:26:36,657 Three generations of flies 393 00:26:36,657 --> 00:26:40,607 grow on these stromatolites each year. 394 00:26:40,797 --> 00:26:43,187 The fertile rocks provide larvae with shelter 395 00:26:43,186 --> 00:26:45,446 and an abundance of food. 396 00:26:48,411 --> 00:26:51,101 - These stromatolites that we're walking on now 397 00:26:51,099 --> 00:26:53,699 are probably half a meter thick, 398 00:26:53,703 --> 00:26:55,703 or something like that, and have been growing 399 00:26:55,696 --> 00:26:57,666 for a long time. 400 00:26:57,669 --> 00:27:01,139 They grow over tens of thousands of years, 401 00:27:01,137 --> 00:27:03,687 and if we look down, we can see tens or 402 00:27:03,685 --> 00:27:05,915 hundreds of thousands of brine flies. 403 00:27:05,915 --> 00:27:09,655 Some are sitting on the surface film of the lake, 404 00:27:09,659 --> 00:27:12,459 making almost a solid mat. 405 00:27:23,908 --> 00:27:26,138 In the summer, the density of the flies 406 00:27:26,137 --> 00:27:28,527 reaches its maximum. 407 00:27:29,017 --> 00:27:32,697 Any, other than a scientist, would consider them a plague. 408 00:27:33,944 --> 00:27:36,154 But Jaimi and Bonnie know that these insects 409 00:27:36,152 --> 00:27:39,742 are an essential component of the lake's ecosystem. 410 00:27:42,072 --> 00:27:44,362 - The flies at Great Salt Lake still amaze me 411 00:27:44,364 --> 00:27:47,764 after working out here for all of these years. 412 00:27:47,757 --> 00:27:50,617 You can see the sparkle on the surface of the water. 413 00:27:50,615 --> 00:27:54,005 Those are the adults that are laying their eggs on the 414 00:27:54,009 --> 00:27:56,939 water in the Great Salt Lake. 415 00:27:57,773 --> 00:28:01,683 The flies are cycling nutrients by eating 416 00:28:01,676 --> 00:28:04,806 these microbes on the bioherms there, 417 00:28:04,813 --> 00:28:09,183 specializing on the benthic microbes that 418 00:28:09,175 --> 00:28:13,065 live on the bottom of Great Salt Lake and feeding on them. 419 00:28:15,094 --> 00:28:18,984 People have estimated up to 370 million pupa cases 420 00:28:18,977 --> 00:28:21,447 on one mile of shoreline. 421 00:28:21,451 --> 00:28:24,471 This is incredible biomass for the birds that 422 00:28:24,470 --> 00:28:27,100 migrate here all year round. 423 00:28:36,763 --> 00:28:38,693 The abundance of these flies 424 00:28:38,687 --> 00:28:40,727 helps explain why the Great Salt Lake 425 00:28:40,725 --> 00:28:43,545 is one of the main stops along the migration route 426 00:28:43,553 --> 00:28:45,793 of countless bird species. 427 00:28:47,903 --> 00:28:51,783 But could this cornucopia turn into a threat? 428 00:28:54,079 --> 00:28:56,999 Over the past few years, scientists have grown alert 429 00:28:57,001 --> 00:28:58,971 to the presence of mercury in the bodies 430 00:28:58,974 --> 00:29:01,204 of certain waterfowl. 431 00:29:02,974 --> 00:29:05,854 There is little doubt as to the origin of the mercury. 432 00:29:05,854 --> 00:29:08,634 It comes from industrial waste. 433 00:29:09,384 --> 00:29:11,894 The highly toxic metal leeches onto the bottom 434 00:29:11,890 --> 00:29:14,480 of the lake in the sediment that constitutes 435 00:29:14,483 --> 00:29:16,803 the fly larvae's food. 436 00:29:18,503 --> 00:29:21,273 These larvae in turn are the main food supply 437 00:29:21,265 --> 00:29:22,815 for the most highly contaminated 438 00:29:22,823 --> 00:29:26,193 bird on the lake, the Common Goldeneye. 439 00:29:31,601 --> 00:29:33,691 Scientists have discovered the fly larvae 440 00:29:33,691 --> 00:29:36,521 are at the bottom of a toxic food chain, where the 441 00:29:36,518 --> 00:29:40,528 concentration of mercury gets higher with each link. 442 00:29:42,001 --> 00:29:45,911 But are the flies the only vector in this lethal sequence? 443 00:29:45,905 --> 00:29:47,365 Don't other animals contribute to 444 00:29:47,365 --> 00:29:49,235 spreading the poison? 445 00:29:49,637 --> 00:29:51,287 - Look in front of us. 446 00:29:51,290 --> 00:29:54,430 We have at least a hundred spiders, 447 00:29:54,426 --> 00:29:55,806 big spiders. 448 00:29:55,812 --> 00:29:58,652 These are Orb Weavers at Great Salt Lake, 449 00:29:58,649 --> 00:30:01,829 so birds aren't the only ones that eat the flies 450 00:30:01,828 --> 00:30:04,038 out here at Great Salt Lake. 451 00:30:04,036 --> 00:30:08,926 Orb Weavers also love to feast on all of those 452 00:30:08,930 --> 00:30:11,510 billions of flies that are behind us on the 453 00:30:11,513 --> 00:30:13,923 shorelines of Great Salt Lake. 454 00:30:14,733 --> 00:30:17,343 Until now, the role the spiders play 455 00:30:17,336 --> 00:30:19,676 in the contamination of other species had not 456 00:30:19,683 --> 00:30:22,003 been clearly established. 457 00:30:23,170 --> 00:30:25,540 - I had begun working with one of our faculty members 458 00:30:25,538 --> 00:30:29,308 at Westminster College who had some preliminary data 459 00:30:29,314 --> 00:30:34,314 on how much mercury was in the spiders at Great Salt Lake, 460 00:30:34,956 --> 00:30:39,136 and had talked to the media about this, and a photographer 461 00:30:39,138 --> 00:30:43,118 contacted us right away and said, "I have pictures of birds 462 00:30:43,116 --> 00:30:46,776 "that are feeding these spiders to their nestlings," 463 00:30:46,789 --> 00:30:50,459 which is a very interesting way for a scientist 464 00:30:50,455 --> 00:30:53,425 to gain information, through a photographer. 465 00:30:56,111 --> 00:30:57,851 Intrigued by the photos, 466 00:30:57,850 --> 00:31:00,470 researchers were eager to learn more. 467 00:31:00,826 --> 00:31:04,116 They installed a miniature camera near a nest. 468 00:31:07,749 --> 00:31:11,659 First ingested by flies, then by spiders and birds, 469 00:31:11,662 --> 00:31:14,032 the mercury becomes more concentrated as it 470 00:31:14,030 --> 00:31:17,240 progresses along the food chain to man. 471 00:31:18,009 --> 00:31:20,839 Certain ducks with mercury levels that are too high 472 00:31:20,835 --> 00:31:23,725 have been banned from human consumption. 473 00:31:29,037 --> 00:31:31,427 The presence of this toxic metal in their main source 474 00:31:31,427 --> 00:31:34,697 of food has transformed the Great Salt Lake into 475 00:31:34,700 --> 00:31:38,340 a risky stop off for America's migrating birds. 476 00:31:54,487 --> 00:31:57,277 Summer is almost over, and there are 477 00:31:57,281 --> 00:31:59,431 fewer and fewer flies. 478 00:32:03,498 --> 00:32:06,418 The birds have had a chance to stock up on food 479 00:32:06,421 --> 00:32:08,151 and are ready to leave the lake 480 00:32:08,152 --> 00:32:10,682 for regions where the winter is milder. 481 00:32:15,199 --> 00:32:16,939 Autumn heralds a new stage 482 00:32:16,937 --> 00:32:19,527 in the biological cycle of the lake. 483 00:32:22,868 --> 00:32:24,748 The moth of October marks the opening 484 00:32:24,745 --> 00:32:27,715 of a very particular fishing season. 485 00:32:30,329 --> 00:32:33,779 The brine shrimp have laid an actual treasure. 486 00:32:34,606 --> 00:32:37,896 Billions of eggs that amass in large reddish swaths 487 00:32:37,901 --> 00:32:40,421 that are visible from the sky. 488 00:32:41,890 --> 00:32:44,770 Destined as food for farmed fish, these eggs, 489 00:32:44,770 --> 00:32:48,210 called cysts, bring $125 million 490 00:32:48,205 --> 00:32:51,355 into the local economy each year. 491 00:32:54,774 --> 00:32:56,664 Dozens of boats attempt to make the most 492 00:32:56,662 --> 00:32:59,402 of these few months of harvesting under the 493 00:32:59,403 --> 00:33:01,873 watchful eye of John Luft. 494 00:33:02,464 --> 00:33:05,344 - As we manage the brine shrimp fishery, 495 00:33:05,344 --> 00:33:08,924 we have the possibility of 496 00:33:08,917 --> 00:33:12,347 over-harvesting but also under-harvesting. 497 00:33:12,346 --> 00:33:15,056 So we rely heavily on the brine shrimpers 498 00:33:15,057 --> 00:33:18,487 to actually harvest the exact right amount. 499 00:33:18,491 --> 00:33:20,491 That's what all of our monitoring during the course 500 00:33:20,486 --> 00:33:22,706 of the season is for. 501 00:33:26,684 --> 00:33:29,364 To ensure the sustainability of the resource, 502 00:33:29,360 --> 00:33:31,240 the harvesting of brine shrimp eggs 503 00:33:31,237 --> 00:33:33,597 must respect strict quotas. 504 00:33:35,770 --> 00:33:38,990 If too many cysts are harvested, the next generation 505 00:33:38,991 --> 00:33:42,161 will have a hard time replenishing itself. 506 00:33:42,916 --> 00:33:44,956 But if not enough are harvested, the adults 507 00:33:44,963 --> 00:33:47,023 will proliferate to an extent that could 508 00:33:47,023 --> 00:33:50,153 lead to a shortage of phytoplankton. 509 00:33:51,204 --> 00:33:52,844 This would prevent young brine shrimp 510 00:33:52,836 --> 00:33:56,576 from reaching maturity and being able to reproduce. 511 00:34:02,787 --> 00:34:05,087 The cysts are incredible creatures. 512 00:34:05,090 --> 00:34:09,570 It takes 250,000 of them to fill just one teaspoon. 513 00:34:09,571 --> 00:34:11,931 But they are astonishingly resilient. 514 00:34:16,272 --> 00:34:17,782 They can survive many years 515 00:34:17,776 --> 00:34:21,416 in a state of complete dehydration, and are able 516 00:34:21,422 --> 00:34:24,992 to adapt to extremely different salinity levels. 517 00:34:41,266 --> 00:34:44,206 Fishermen aren't the only ones who appreciate the presence 518 00:34:44,205 --> 00:34:46,455 of these tiny shrimp that play a major role 519 00:34:46,456 --> 00:34:48,856 in the ecosystem of the lake. 520 00:34:50,882 --> 00:34:53,932 Biologist Maureen Frank has organized an expedition 521 00:34:53,932 --> 00:34:56,332 to study one of the largest and most 522 00:34:56,328 --> 00:34:59,628 prolific populations of migratory birds on the lake, 523 00:34:59,631 --> 00:35:01,541 the Eared Grebe. 524 00:35:06,621 --> 00:35:09,301 Another sort of angling begins, 525 00:35:09,298 --> 00:35:10,818 for birds. 526 00:35:20,860 --> 00:35:24,320 - The reason that Eared Grebes come to Great Salt Lake 527 00:35:24,316 --> 00:35:28,006 is to fuel up before migration. 528 00:35:28,005 --> 00:35:30,075 So they come here and they eat a lot. 529 00:35:30,082 --> 00:35:34,772 And when they get here, they lose the ability to fly 530 00:35:34,766 --> 00:35:39,306 because their wing muscles get smaller 531 00:35:39,311 --> 00:35:42,431 and all of their digestive organs get bigger, 532 00:35:42,426 --> 00:35:46,696 so that they can put on as much weight as they can. 533 00:35:48,921 --> 00:35:50,191 It's a dream come true 534 00:35:50,190 --> 00:35:52,420 for the scientists studying them. 535 00:35:52,420 --> 00:35:54,940 The researchers drive about a dozen into their net, 536 00:35:54,944 --> 00:35:57,954 which they will then equip with transmitters. 537 00:35:57,957 --> 00:36:01,557 This will allow Maureen to record the birds' movements. 538 00:36:04,325 --> 00:36:06,365 - We need to know how many are out there. 539 00:36:06,372 --> 00:36:08,802 We need to know what they're eating. 540 00:36:08,804 --> 00:36:11,094 We need to know where they're eating 541 00:36:11,090 --> 00:36:14,810 to ensure their long-term survival. 542 00:36:16,297 --> 00:36:20,177 Half of North America's population of grebes 543 00:36:20,184 --> 00:36:22,404 comes here every year. 544 00:36:22,935 --> 00:36:25,115 - These transmitters are helping us figure out 545 00:36:25,123 --> 00:36:27,013 how they move around the lake. 546 00:36:27,011 --> 00:36:29,911 While the eared grebes are here, there's also 547 00:36:29,906 --> 00:36:31,966 harvest of brine shrimp cycts 548 00:36:31,973 --> 00:36:34,123 that's going on at the same time. 549 00:36:34,123 --> 00:36:36,583 So it's important for us to know what parts of the lake 550 00:36:36,582 --> 00:36:39,762 are important to the birds so that we can 551 00:36:40,529 --> 00:36:42,659 make sure they still have places that are 552 00:36:42,662 --> 00:36:45,562 good for them to forage. 553 00:36:45,564 --> 00:36:48,074 And we monitor that, so that we can have the birds 554 00:36:48,069 --> 00:36:52,479 stay healthy and have a brine shrimp cyst industry. 555 00:37:01,852 --> 00:37:03,312 As valuable to the birds 556 00:37:03,308 --> 00:37:06,088 as to the fisherman, brine shrimp are the lake's 557 00:37:06,089 --> 00:37:08,379 largest biological treasure. 558 00:37:10,331 --> 00:37:12,791 Without them, the Great Salt Lake would not be the 559 00:37:12,794 --> 00:37:15,094 main stopping point for migrating birds 560 00:37:15,088 --> 00:37:17,468 in the southwestern United States. 561 00:37:24,918 --> 00:37:28,878 Fall is the best season to discover Antelope Island. 562 00:37:29,508 --> 00:37:32,088 Located in the southeastern part of the lake, 563 00:37:32,089 --> 00:37:35,779 the island, with its 40 fresh-water springs, is an oasis 564 00:37:35,780 --> 00:37:38,490 in the midst of the salt water desert. 565 00:37:39,310 --> 00:37:41,890 This makes it a natural sanctuary for its remarkably 566 00:37:41,891 --> 00:37:45,541 diverse wildlife, which includes the pronghorn, 567 00:37:45,539 --> 00:37:48,889 the only antelope endemic to North America. 568 00:37:53,219 --> 00:37:55,539 The most surprising animal that lives on the island 569 00:37:55,543 --> 00:37:59,123 was once found in abundance on the continent. 570 00:38:08,779 --> 00:38:12,469 Just 200 years ago, 50,000 bison still roamed 571 00:38:12,470 --> 00:38:14,460 the American plains. 572 00:38:16,876 --> 00:38:19,886 But the arrival of the pioneers proved fatal to them, 573 00:38:19,894 --> 00:38:23,314 and by 1890, hunting had reduced the population 574 00:38:23,306 --> 00:38:25,646 to a mere few hundred. 575 00:38:31,371 --> 00:38:33,801 President Theodore Roosevelt took the initiative 576 00:38:33,802 --> 00:38:36,012 of reintroducing the species in certain 577 00:38:36,010 --> 00:38:38,280 protected zones. 578 00:38:41,353 --> 00:38:46,273 - The bison actually came in 1893 to the island. 579 00:38:46,270 --> 00:38:49,570 At that time, we brought 12 animals: 580 00:38:49,565 --> 00:38:52,765 four bulls, four cows, four calfs. 581 00:38:53,683 --> 00:38:55,723 So they felt that it was an isolated place 582 00:38:55,720 --> 00:38:57,440 that they could protect them. 583 00:39:08,684 --> 00:39:10,634 Today, over 600 bison live 584 00:39:10,630 --> 00:39:12,780 on Antelope Island. 585 00:39:12,777 --> 00:39:15,537 The largest herd in North America. 586 00:39:19,036 --> 00:39:21,816 Although few of its landscapes resemble the arid plains 587 00:39:21,820 --> 00:39:25,250 of former Lake Bonneville, the island remains a privileged 588 00:39:25,253 --> 00:39:28,543 spot for the protection of a legendary creature. 589 00:39:29,808 --> 00:39:31,708 They are so prolific here that there numbers 590 00:39:31,706 --> 00:39:33,826 need to be managed. 591 00:39:33,832 --> 00:39:36,282 This has spurred the Great Buffalo Roundup 592 00:39:36,282 --> 00:39:39,022 that is organized on the island each year. 593 00:39:40,763 --> 00:39:43,563 - Okay, when we get them up into the corrals, 594 00:39:43,556 --> 00:39:46,356 they'll have fences on both sides. 595 00:39:46,362 --> 00:39:51,122 We've got to push 600 buffalo through a 30-foot gate. 596 00:39:51,689 --> 00:39:54,209 So once they get going through the gate, 597 00:39:54,212 --> 00:39:57,222 back off and just let them go. 598 00:39:57,603 --> 00:40:00,403 Once we get 'em going, just take it easy, 599 00:40:00,402 --> 00:40:01,972 they'll all walk in. 600 00:40:06,454 --> 00:40:08,494 Each year, hundreds of volunteers 601 00:40:08,491 --> 00:40:11,611 flock to Antelope Island from across the United States 602 00:40:11,605 --> 00:40:13,885 to participate in the roundup. 603 00:40:17,963 --> 00:40:20,313 A number of bison will have to leave the island, 604 00:40:20,309 --> 00:40:22,209 but which ones? 605 00:40:25,769 --> 00:40:27,739 The bison are herded towards corrals, 606 00:40:27,743 --> 00:40:29,703 where they can be examined and sorted. 607 00:40:38,938 --> 00:40:42,178 The enormous herd is driven toward the pens. 608 00:40:51,933 --> 00:40:53,603 The bison are selected according to 609 00:40:53,600 --> 00:40:55,240 genetic criteria. 610 00:40:57,609 --> 00:40:59,839 - There's a lot of bison these days that have 611 00:40:59,840 --> 00:41:02,820 bovine genes in them, bovine being cow. 612 00:41:02,815 --> 00:41:04,185 They're cattle genes. 613 00:41:04,192 --> 00:41:05,702 So what we want to do this year 614 00:41:05,696 --> 00:41:09,546 is auction off anything that we find bovine in 615 00:41:09,547 --> 00:41:11,887 and to get a pure bison herd, which would be 616 00:41:11,893 --> 00:41:14,033 fairly unique throughout the country. 617 00:41:20,138 --> 00:41:22,168 The bison undergo medical examinations 618 00:41:22,165 --> 00:41:25,225 and DNA testing, the results of which will determine 619 00:41:25,226 --> 00:41:27,586 which animals get to stay on the island 620 00:41:27,593 --> 00:41:30,073 and which ones must leave. 621 00:41:33,833 --> 00:41:36,353 The tests have revealed that 99 percent of the bison 622 00:41:36,349 --> 00:41:39,869 on the island are free of bovine genes, which actually 623 00:41:39,870 --> 00:41:43,290 makes them one of the purest herds on Earth. 624 00:41:46,674 --> 00:41:49,144 More than ever, the Antelope Island bison herd 625 00:41:49,139 --> 00:41:52,179 is a resource worthy of protection in the exceptional 626 00:41:52,179 --> 00:41:55,519 habitat provided by the Great Salt Lake. 627 00:42:04,487 --> 00:42:06,247 Autumn is drawing to a close, 628 00:42:06,247 --> 00:42:10,187 and life in and along the lake is gradually changing. 629 00:42:11,004 --> 00:42:15,464 In the north, the heavily-salted water glistens bright pink, 630 00:42:15,463 --> 00:42:18,743 while in the south, the water has been cleared of its algae 631 00:42:18,737 --> 00:42:21,447 and presents a clear blue shade. 632 00:42:29,766 --> 00:42:32,036 To the east, where the fresh water from rivers 633 00:42:32,038 --> 00:42:34,658 blends with the lake's saltier water, 634 00:42:34,661 --> 00:42:37,711 we find a vast network of habitats. 635 00:42:42,298 --> 00:42:45,228 These wetlands are a refuge for over 200 varieties 636 00:42:45,231 --> 00:42:49,321 of birds, but are also one of the spots most susceptible 637 00:42:49,317 --> 00:42:51,697 to drops in water level. 638 00:42:52,634 --> 00:42:55,794 To survive in the shifting conditions, animals, plants, 639 00:42:55,791 --> 00:42:59,881 and microorganisms need to constantly adapt. 640 00:42:59,884 --> 00:43:02,784 All these life-forms depend on the rhythm of the seasons 641 00:43:02,777 --> 00:43:05,147 and the water level in the lake. 642 00:43:05,454 --> 00:43:07,194 John Luft can't help but acknowledge 643 00:43:07,193 --> 00:43:10,503 that this ecosystem is gradually drying up. 644 00:43:21,516 --> 00:43:23,716 As the season draws to a close, we find 645 00:43:23,724 --> 00:43:26,794 the largest bird population up in the northeast, 646 00:43:26,785 --> 00:43:29,545 near Bear River Bay in the marshes, 647 00:43:29,548 --> 00:43:33,258 where the vegetation is lush and the water less salty. 648 00:43:35,446 --> 00:43:38,936 Temperatures are dropping, and the water will soon freeze. 649 00:43:38,935 --> 00:43:43,545 For some birds, this is their last chance for a good meal. 650 00:43:47,061 --> 00:43:49,821 The Bear River Refuge is the largest wetland 651 00:43:49,824 --> 00:43:52,254 in the Great Salt Lake ecosystem. 652 00:43:55,252 --> 00:43:58,292 For biologist Howard Browers, it is time to take 653 00:43:58,293 --> 00:44:00,873 the final counts of the year. 654 00:44:09,001 --> 00:44:10,621 - Any idea what they are? 655 00:44:11,017 --> 00:44:12,557 - The ducks? - Yeah. 656 00:44:13,801 --> 00:44:17,721 - It's probably a combination of Pintail, Green-winged Teal. 657 00:44:22,770 --> 00:44:25,740 - This is a pretty neat time to be on the refuge 658 00:44:25,735 --> 00:44:28,445 during the fall migration. 659 00:44:29,203 --> 00:44:32,543 I actually did a count just a couple of days ago, 660 00:44:32,540 --> 00:44:36,260 and on this unit, we probably had close to 40,000 birds, 661 00:44:36,260 --> 00:44:38,110 mostly ducks. 662 00:44:38,105 --> 00:44:42,735 In another six weeks or so, the refuge will be frozen 663 00:44:42,739 --> 00:44:44,859 and then pretty much everything is gone. 664 00:44:49,502 --> 00:44:51,332 The resource we are trying to manage for 665 00:44:51,326 --> 00:44:55,296 is the amazing waterbird, particularly resource shore birds 666 00:44:55,304 --> 00:44:58,844 that use the Bear River and the Great Salt Lake ecosystem. 667 00:44:58,835 --> 00:45:03,255 All of these birds depend greatly on the 668 00:45:03,262 --> 00:45:06,472 Great Salt Lake ecosystem for not only breeding 669 00:45:06,472 --> 00:45:09,182 but for feeding during migration 670 00:45:09,181 --> 00:45:12,841 and the Bear River is a significant part of that. 671 00:45:18,769 --> 00:45:21,749 For man, as well as for the wildlife, 672 00:45:21,745 --> 00:45:25,795 fresh water is a scarce and coveted resource. 673 00:45:30,682 --> 00:45:34,632 The priority is rarely given to the lake's ecosystem. 674 00:45:38,075 --> 00:45:42,075 - In the spring, when irrigation season kicks in, 675 00:45:42,800 --> 00:45:46,590 our water right becomes junior to the irrigators. 676 00:45:46,587 --> 00:45:49,487 And irrigators get to take what they need from the river 677 00:45:49,488 --> 00:45:52,348 and then we basically get what's left over. 678 00:45:52,353 --> 00:45:55,123 And so, some of our wetland units can actually dry up 679 00:45:55,122 --> 00:45:56,722 in the late summer. 680 00:46:00,327 --> 00:46:01,557 90 percent of the water 681 00:46:01,560 --> 00:46:03,490 from the Bear River is intercepted 682 00:46:03,490 --> 00:46:06,080 and diverted into artificial canals 683 00:46:06,084 --> 00:46:08,494 used to irrigate farmlands. 684 00:46:12,557 --> 00:46:16,337 Millions of liters that never make it to the lake. 685 00:46:17,901 --> 00:46:20,211 - All this diversion that's been going on 686 00:46:20,205 --> 00:46:23,785 has consequences for the lake in that 687 00:46:23,794 --> 00:46:25,504 the lake has been kinda going, 688 00:46:25,495 --> 00:46:26,945 I wouldn't say steadily down, 689 00:46:26,947 --> 00:46:29,037 it still has its ups and downs when we have 690 00:46:29,038 --> 00:46:32,288 wet periods and dry periods, but overall, 691 00:46:32,290 --> 00:46:36,880 along that 150 year period, the lake's been declining. 692 00:46:40,663 --> 00:46:41,613 The misfortunes of 693 00:46:41,608 --> 00:46:45,288 the Great Salt Lake are not all due to agriculture. 694 00:46:45,293 --> 00:46:47,783 Urban development is also to blame. 695 00:46:50,857 --> 00:46:53,627 Salt Lake City is steadily growing. 696 00:46:58,305 --> 00:47:01,005 If the city keeps expanding at its current rate, 697 00:47:01,014 --> 00:47:04,034 the population of the region will hit nearly three million 698 00:47:04,032 --> 00:47:06,052 in ten years' time. 699 00:47:09,813 --> 00:47:12,003 This demographic growth and its accompanying 700 00:47:12,001 --> 00:47:14,701 industrial and agricultural development 701 00:47:14,698 --> 00:47:17,618 considerably increase water needs 702 00:47:19,690 --> 00:47:22,370 to the detriment of the Great Salt Lake. 703 00:47:24,468 --> 00:47:26,928 - When I met the lake, it was much larger 704 00:47:26,932 --> 00:47:29,542 than it is today, and you've seen the lake 705 00:47:29,535 --> 00:47:32,315 going from very high to very low, 706 00:47:32,318 --> 00:47:37,028 and we could do very serious and potentially 707 00:47:37,032 --> 00:47:41,342 catastrophic damage by not allowing water to the lake. 708 00:47:44,798 --> 00:47:45,988 The Great Salt Lake 709 00:47:45,993 --> 00:47:48,193 struggles to strike an elusive balance 710 00:47:48,190 --> 00:47:51,460 between the needs of man and those of nature. 711 00:48:11,348 --> 00:48:14,108 It is winter once more, and the great migrations 712 00:48:14,110 --> 00:48:16,430 are drawing to a close. 713 00:48:19,527 --> 00:48:22,137 Indifferent to the coming cold, a colony of 714 00:48:22,142 --> 00:48:26,572 10,000 tundra swans flocks along the lake's shores. 715 00:48:27,901 --> 00:48:30,741 The bald eagle, legendary bird of prey and 716 00:48:30,738 --> 00:48:34,078 symbol of the United states, sets up its winter quarters 717 00:48:34,077 --> 00:48:36,237 on the Great Salt Lake. 718 00:48:42,876 --> 00:48:45,456 The first snowfalls have capped the surrounding mountains 719 00:48:45,457 --> 00:48:48,707 with white, but the lake has barely changed. 720 00:48:50,962 --> 00:48:53,292 It will only be partially covered by ice, 721 00:48:53,287 --> 00:48:57,367 as its high salt content keeps its water from freezing. 722 00:48:59,165 --> 00:49:02,855 Only certain areas along the shores sometimes freeze, 723 00:49:02,855 --> 00:49:04,715 but rarely for long. 724 00:49:09,639 --> 00:49:12,519 The lake's unfrozen water plays a huge role 725 00:49:12,519 --> 00:49:16,159 in the heavy snowfalls in the surrounding mountains. 726 00:49:20,412 --> 00:49:23,852 Researcher Jim Steenburgh discovered that these snows, 727 00:49:23,846 --> 00:49:27,236 sometimes in the form of blizzards, are the result of 728 00:49:27,238 --> 00:49:31,698 a unique meteorological phenomenon, the lake effect. 729 00:49:34,847 --> 00:49:37,937 - Up here at Snowbird gets 500 inches of snow a year, 730 00:49:37,937 --> 00:49:39,127 and some of that snow is produced 731 00:49:39,131 --> 00:49:41,241 by the Great Salt Lake effect. 732 00:49:41,243 --> 00:49:43,133 And the Great Salt Lake effect happens 733 00:49:43,131 --> 00:49:44,681 when you get cold air. 734 00:49:44,681 --> 00:49:47,541 Some of that snow is produced by the Great Salt Lake. 735 00:49:47,540 --> 00:49:49,450 And sometimes during the winter time, 736 00:49:49,449 --> 00:49:52,509 we get these cold air intrusions from the northwest. 737 00:49:52,510 --> 00:49:54,930 They move over the Great Salt Lake. 738 00:49:56,990 --> 00:49:58,780 The thermal shock between the cold air 739 00:49:58,781 --> 00:50:01,961 from the north and the damp, warm air of the lake 740 00:50:01,960 --> 00:50:04,560 creates spectacular snowfalls. 741 00:50:08,509 --> 00:50:09,869 - It really is the heating of the lake 742 00:50:09,865 --> 00:50:12,045 that drives these storms. 743 00:50:12,051 --> 00:50:15,151 Because that heating destabilizes the atmosphere, 744 00:50:15,154 --> 00:50:17,304 and it drives these land breeze circulations 745 00:50:17,299 --> 00:50:19,219 that come from the opposing shorelines, 746 00:50:19,219 --> 00:50:23,139 they converge and help trigger these lake effect storms. 747 00:50:33,714 --> 00:50:35,174 Though slowed in winter, 748 00:50:35,174 --> 00:50:39,164 the biological cycle of the Great Salt Lake continues. 749 00:50:40,596 --> 00:50:42,846 Little by little, the lake takes on its 750 00:50:42,854 --> 00:50:45,934 characteristic green hue once again. 751 00:50:45,926 --> 00:50:48,616 It prepares for its next rebirth. 752 00:50:49,425 --> 00:50:53,495 In a few months' time, a new cycle will begin. 753 00:50:56,901 --> 00:50:59,341 The thick blanket of snow covering the mountains 754 00:50:59,344 --> 00:51:02,594 will melt and add water to the lake. 755 00:51:03,290 --> 00:51:05,450 The brine shrimp will be born again, 756 00:51:05,445 --> 00:51:07,695 and the migrating birds, back once more, 757 00:51:07,695 --> 00:51:09,955 will enjoy their feast. 758 00:51:13,786 --> 00:51:17,586 The Great Salt Lake, little known and often unpopular, 759 00:51:17,594 --> 00:51:20,794 will once more prove that, in reality, it is the 760 00:51:20,793 --> 00:51:24,953 generous protector of an immense biodiversity. 61008

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