All language subtitles for Secret.Life.of.Lakes.S01E03.WEBRip.x264-ION10

af Afrikaans
ak Akan
sq Albanian
am Amharic
ar Arabic
hy Armenian
az Azerbaijani
eu Basque
be Belarusian
bem Bemba
bn Bengali
bh Bihari
bs Bosnian
br Breton
bg Bulgarian
km Cambodian
ca Catalan
ceb Cebuano
chr Cherokee
ny Chichewa
zh-CN Chinese (Simplified)
zh-TW Chinese (Traditional)
co Corsican
hr Croatian
cs Czech
da Danish
en English
eo Esperanto
et Estonian
ee Ewe
fo Faroese
tl Filipino
fi Finnish
fr French
fy Frisian
gaa Ga
gl Galician
ka Georgian
de German
gn Guarani
gu Gujarati
ht Haitian Creole
ha Hausa
haw Hawaiian
iw Hebrew
hi Hindi
hmn Hmong
hu Hungarian
is Icelandic
ig Igbo
id Indonesian
ia Interlingua
ga Irish
it Italian
ja Japanese
jw Javanese
kn Kannada
kk Kazakh
rw Kinyarwanda
rn Kirundi
kg Kongo
ko Korean
kri Krio (Sierra Leone)
ku Kurdish
ckb Kurdish (Soranรฎ)
ky Kyrgyz
lo Laothian
la Latin
lv Latvian
ln Lingala
lt Lithuanian
loz Lozi
lg Luganda
ach Luo
lb Luxembourgish
mk Macedonian
mg Malagasy
ms Malay
ml Malayalam
mt Maltese
mi Maori
mr Marathi
mfe Mauritian Creole
mo Moldavian
mn Mongolian
my Myanmar (Burmese)
sr-ME Montenegrin
ne Nepali
pcm Nigerian Pidgin
nso Northern Sotho
no Norwegian
nn Norwegian (Nynorsk)
oc Occitan
or Oriya
om Oromo
ps Pashto
fa Persian
pl Polish
pt-BR Portuguese (Brazil)
pt Portuguese (Portugal)
pa Punjabi
qu Quechua
ro Romanian
rm Romansh
nyn Runyakitara
ru Russian
sm Samoan
gd Scots Gaelic
sr Serbian
sh Serbo-Croatian
st Sesotho
tn Setswana
crs Seychellois Creole
sn Shona
sd Sindhi
si Sinhalese
sk Slovak
sl Slovenian
so Somali
es Spanish
es-419 Spanish (Latin American)
su Sundanese
sw Swahili
sv Swedish
tg Tajik
ta Tamil
tt Tatar
te Telugu
th Thai
ti Tigrinya
to Tonga
lua Tshiluba
tum Tumbuka
tr Turkish
tk Turkmen
tw Twi
ug Uighur
uk Ukrainian
ur Urdu
uz Uzbek
vi Vietnamese
cy Welsh
wo Wolof
xh Xhosa
yi Yiddish
yo Yoruba
zu Zulu
Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:05,010 --> 00:00:09,440 Lakes are living creatures. 2 00:00:11,208 --> 00:00:14,288 These precious reserves of water live and die 3 00:00:14,290 --> 00:00:17,980 according to distinct natural cycles. 4 00:00:20,209 --> 00:00:22,259 Their peaceful waters seem dormant, 5 00:00:22,257 --> 00:00:25,327 yet them teem with mysterious life. 6 00:00:29,350 --> 00:00:32,290 Lakes only reveal themselves to the men and women 7 00:00:32,294 --> 00:00:36,804 who take time to patiently linger beside their shores. 8 00:00:36,800 --> 00:00:40,940 Together, we are going to discover their secrets. 9 00:00:57,034 --> 00:01:00,054 The rhythm of an entire country, Cambodia, 10 00:01:00,052 --> 00:01:02,442 follows the cycle of this lake. 11 00:01:03,943 --> 00:01:05,533 At the heart of the Khemarak Kingdom, 12 00:01:05,531 --> 00:01:07,811 this huge and bounteous lake forms 13 00:01:07,813 --> 00:01:09,323 the greatest reserve of fresh water 14 00:01:09,317 --> 00:01:11,587 in Southeast Asia. 15 00:01:11,589 --> 00:01:14,149 It's name, Tonle Sap. 16 00:01:14,842 --> 00:01:16,732 The name means fresh water river, 17 00:01:16,730 --> 00:01:18,440 in reference to the Mekong, 18 00:01:18,437 --> 00:01:22,317 the river that provides most of it's water. 19 00:01:24,366 --> 00:01:25,826 Tonle Sap is home to one of the 20 00:01:25,827 --> 00:01:28,177 greatest flooded forests on Earth, 21 00:01:28,177 --> 00:01:31,667 a fabulous natural sanctuary where migrating birds 22 00:01:31,665 --> 00:01:34,695 from all over Asia stop to feed. 23 00:01:38,437 --> 00:01:40,137 Of all the lakes in Asia, 24 00:01:40,144 --> 00:01:43,414 Tonle Sap is probably the most bounteous. 25 00:01:43,408 --> 00:01:45,158 More than three million Cambodians depend 26 00:01:45,157 --> 00:01:47,827 on it's fish filled waters. 27 00:01:47,833 --> 00:01:49,923 But it's also a capricious lake, 28 00:01:49,924 --> 00:01:52,504 it's water disappearing and then reappearing 29 00:01:52,504 --> 00:01:55,174 in rhythm with the seasons. 30 00:01:55,165 --> 00:01:58,095 As vast as the sea during the wet season, 31 00:01:58,098 --> 00:02:01,828 the lake becomes a muddy pond in the dry season. 32 00:02:01,831 --> 00:02:04,801 The fortunes of the planet's last great food larder lake 33 00:02:04,796 --> 00:02:09,616 depend entirely on the cyclical return of it's waters. 34 00:02:25,072 --> 00:02:27,632 More than a million people live in the 90 villages 35 00:02:27,631 --> 00:02:29,671 that surround Tonle Sap. 36 00:02:29,668 --> 00:02:33,198 Their lives synchronized to the lake's own rhythm. 37 00:02:34,052 --> 00:02:37,212 It shelters, transports, and feeds all these people 38 00:02:37,205 --> 00:02:39,235 who have adapted to the water born life 39 00:02:39,236 --> 00:02:42,776 the Tonle Sap imposes on them. 40 00:02:46,222 --> 00:02:47,542 To the north of the lake, 41 00:02:47,544 --> 00:02:49,834 in the floating villiage of Prek Toal, 42 00:02:49,827 --> 00:02:53,677 there lives a fisherman who has never left Tonle Sap. 43 00:02:53,676 --> 00:02:56,466 Kuy Ann lives in harmony with the lake, 44 00:02:56,471 --> 00:03:00,441 it's cycles governing every moment of his existence. 45 00:03:03,169 --> 00:03:04,949 I love this lake, 46 00:03:04,949 --> 00:03:06,879 and especially the way we live here 47 00:03:06,880 --> 00:03:09,520 in this floating village. 48 00:03:09,516 --> 00:03:12,916 Living here is a question of what you're used to. 49 00:03:12,916 --> 00:03:15,406 Everything's made easy for me. 50 00:03:15,414 --> 00:03:18,974 Bathing, getting around by boat, 51 00:03:18,965 --> 00:03:22,055 I don't feel comfortable on dry land. 52 00:03:22,058 --> 00:03:25,838 I can't ride a bike or a motor bike. 53 00:03:26,239 --> 00:03:28,109 Kuy Ann lives in a floating house, 54 00:03:28,105 --> 00:03:29,685 tends a floating garden, 55 00:03:29,694 --> 00:03:33,584 and spends most of his life on the water. 56 00:03:34,249 --> 00:03:36,139 The bamboo which supports the floating garden, 57 00:03:36,137 --> 00:03:39,487 has to be replaced every year. 58 00:03:39,486 --> 00:03:41,276 It's a chore which Kuy Ann carries out 59 00:03:41,278 --> 00:03:43,938 like a veritable mer-man. 60 00:03:45,864 --> 00:03:47,954 I was born on the lake. 61 00:03:47,954 --> 00:03:51,434 We're fishermen here from father to son. 62 00:03:51,432 --> 00:03:53,282 I know Tonle Sap by heart, 63 00:03:53,277 --> 00:03:55,537 and all the fish which live in it, 64 00:03:55,538 --> 00:03:59,218 including those which hide in the mud. 65 00:03:59,217 --> 00:04:02,607 I also know the wind, the directions it blows, 66 00:04:02,610 --> 00:04:06,750 the mass movements of the fish. 67 00:04:06,747 --> 00:04:09,107 Kuy Ann understands that it is the people 68 00:04:09,105 --> 00:04:11,435 who must adapt to the movements of the lake 69 00:04:11,441 --> 00:04:14,271 and not the other way around. 70 00:04:14,267 --> 00:04:16,757 For Tonle Sap is an ever changing ecosystem, 71 00:04:16,763 --> 00:04:19,183 which leads a double life. 72 00:04:19,184 --> 00:04:21,304 The lake empties and fills up again 73 00:04:21,295 --> 00:04:23,805 according to a seasonal cycle which it imposes 74 00:04:23,813 --> 00:04:27,763 on all lakeside life. 75 00:04:27,759 --> 00:04:28,909 When the waters have gone, 76 00:04:28,911 --> 00:04:31,021 the lake becomes a veritable swamp. 77 00:04:31,023 --> 00:04:35,383 When they return, the lake spreads out again, 78 00:04:35,375 --> 00:04:38,375 no respecter of boundaries. 79 00:04:38,383 --> 00:04:40,153 The entire lakeside ecosystem 80 00:04:40,152 --> 00:04:44,942 depends on this primordial aquatic cycle. 81 00:04:44,940 --> 00:04:48,780 Every year between May and June, the monsoon returns. 82 00:04:56,994 --> 00:05:00,174 Torrential rains batter the whole of Southeast Asia 83 00:05:00,172 --> 00:05:02,852 during this period. 84 00:05:02,849 --> 00:05:06,159 The water brought by the rain is swollen by melt water 85 00:05:06,156 --> 00:05:09,106 from the Himalayan glaciers. 86 00:05:12,287 --> 00:05:15,017 The water gushes down the mountain slopes, 87 00:05:15,018 --> 00:05:17,668 and the muddy torrents thus created converge 88 00:05:17,674 --> 00:05:21,274 on the immense drainage basin of the Mekong. 89 00:05:21,267 --> 00:05:24,087 Then occurs a unique hydro logical phenomenon, 90 00:05:24,094 --> 00:05:26,254 the flow of water reverses. 91 00:05:26,248 --> 00:05:29,028 Whereas the water usually flows from the Tonle Sap river 92 00:05:29,032 --> 00:05:30,502 towards the Mekong, 93 00:05:30,495 --> 00:05:33,065 all of the sudden this goes into reverse. 94 00:05:33,074 --> 00:05:36,024 The pressure of the Mekong in spade becomes so strong, 95 00:05:36,019 --> 00:05:39,799 that it flows back up in the direction of the lake. 96 00:05:39,804 --> 00:05:42,644 The direction of the Tonle Sap river's current is reversed, 97 00:05:42,642 --> 00:05:47,402 and the Mekong's muddy water fills the lake. 98 00:05:48,679 --> 00:05:50,179 This is when the living heart of Cambodia 99 00:05:50,182 --> 00:05:52,382 beats its strongest. 100 00:05:52,380 --> 00:05:55,300 The lake is swollen by the river, and overflows, 101 00:05:55,303 --> 00:05:57,783 flooding the land all around. 102 00:05:57,777 --> 00:05:59,547 The surface area of the water increases 103 00:05:59,548 --> 00:06:03,208 five fold at this time. 104 00:06:03,953 --> 00:06:05,433 Water rich with sediment, floods some 105 00:06:05,434 --> 00:06:09,364 15,000 square kilometers. 106 00:06:25,326 --> 00:06:27,886 At this time, Tonle Sap's ecosystem undergoes 107 00:06:27,886 --> 00:06:31,296 a radical transformation. 108 00:06:32,217 --> 00:06:34,367 The rice fields absorb the excess water, 109 00:06:34,371 --> 00:06:37,841 and the vegetation, stimulated by the alluvial deposits, 110 00:06:37,838 --> 00:06:40,998 enjoys a new spurt of growth. 111 00:06:40,995 --> 00:06:43,805 For several months the level of the lake keeps rising, 112 00:06:43,811 --> 00:06:45,911 from a low of barely 50 centimeters, 113 00:06:45,912 --> 00:06:50,092 to over eight meters. 114 00:06:50,093 --> 00:06:53,103 A new equilibrium settles between the Earth and the water, 115 00:06:53,101 --> 00:06:57,101 but it's a fragile one. 116 00:06:58,946 --> 00:07:02,486 Tonle Sap is a lake about which much is still unknown, 117 00:07:02,486 --> 00:07:06,166 despite years of scientific study. 118 00:07:08,373 --> 00:07:11,383 Sylyvann Borei, a scientist from the World Fish Center, 119 00:07:11,381 --> 00:07:14,521 has traveled here from Phnom Penh, the capital, 120 00:07:14,515 --> 00:07:16,155 to carry out his seasonal report 121 00:07:16,160 --> 00:07:19,240 on the lakes aquatic resources. 122 00:07:21,396 --> 00:07:25,816 He depends on Kuy Ann to help him collect his samples. 123 00:07:26,579 --> 00:07:27,919 It's impossible to identify the fish 124 00:07:27,924 --> 00:07:29,414 in their natural habitat, 125 00:07:29,407 --> 00:07:33,497 because the lake's water is far too muddy. 126 00:07:33,502 --> 00:07:36,082 The only possibility is to capture the fish, 127 00:07:36,084 --> 00:07:40,074 and place them in a custom built aquarium. 128 00:07:57,224 --> 00:08:00,804 There has been little research done on the fish of Tonle Sap 129 00:08:00,797 --> 00:08:03,727 and yet they are vital importance to Cambodia. 130 00:08:03,729 --> 00:08:05,369 They provide a third of the protein 131 00:08:05,372 --> 00:08:07,572 consumed by the population. 132 00:08:07,570 --> 00:08:09,330 But no one knows just exactly how long 133 00:08:09,329 --> 00:08:11,709 the lake will be able to go on providing fish 134 00:08:11,707 --> 00:08:15,207 in such quantity. 135 00:08:15,472 --> 00:08:17,182 For Tonle Sap and its fauna, 136 00:08:17,179 --> 00:08:21,699 the intensity of the monsoon is a decisive factor. 137 00:08:21,701 --> 00:08:23,961 Was the flood extensive enough this year? 138 00:08:23,963 --> 00:08:27,623 Was it sufficiently high in nutrients? 139 00:08:27,621 --> 00:08:29,381 The good health of the fish's habitats 140 00:08:29,380 --> 00:08:32,070 and therefor the abundance of future catches 141 00:08:32,069 --> 00:08:36,279 depend on this muddy water. 142 00:08:51,694 --> 00:08:53,034 Kuy Ann has spread his net 143 00:08:53,027 --> 00:08:55,997 between the tops of submerged trees. 144 00:08:56,002 --> 00:08:57,542 He knows that these flooded trees, 145 00:08:57,539 --> 00:08:59,869 rich with insects and berries, 146 00:08:59,874 --> 00:09:03,744 shelter many species of fish. 147 00:09:14,145 --> 00:09:15,965 Straight away, Sylyvann starts to recognize 148 00:09:15,970 --> 00:09:20,770 certain species he was hoping to catch specimens of. 149 00:09:22,730 --> 00:09:24,910 See what we have here. 150 00:09:24,907 --> 00:09:28,517 That's a , a Panga. 151 00:09:28,522 --> 00:09:30,722 And is that a Channa? 152 00:09:30,720 --> 00:09:35,080 Yes, it's a Striped Snakehead. 153 00:09:35,082 --> 00:09:36,962 - Here in the Tonle Sap we have like 154 00:09:36,958 --> 00:09:41,708 three main group of species. 155 00:09:41,707 --> 00:09:44,307 So the first one is the Traera, 156 00:09:44,307 --> 00:09:47,197 which belongs to the Blackfish Family. 157 00:09:47,197 --> 00:09:48,747 They have small scales, 158 00:09:48,754 --> 00:09:51,164 sometimes the scale is kinda absent. 159 00:09:51,155 --> 00:09:54,185 Adaptation is very strong, 160 00:09:54,185 --> 00:09:59,185 they can live in the water which is less oxygenated 161 00:10:01,480 --> 00:10:02,960 during dry season. 162 00:10:02,962 --> 00:10:05,372 Another fish is called Tripera, 163 00:10:05,372 --> 00:10:08,972 that belongs to the Whitefish family. 164 00:10:08,967 --> 00:10:13,557 You see the color is kind of silvery and light, 165 00:10:13,564 --> 00:10:15,154 they need clean water. 166 00:10:15,153 --> 00:10:17,093 So in dry season they usually move 167 00:10:17,094 --> 00:10:22,094 up to 1,000 kilometer away to find food from upstream. 168 00:10:23,334 --> 00:10:26,184 I'm gonna catch another fish, the. 169 00:10:26,182 --> 00:10:28,972 That from the gray family. 170 00:10:28,965 --> 00:10:31,095 The adaptation is fairly strong, 171 00:10:31,097 --> 00:10:34,737 that is why they do not have to migrate too far 172 00:10:34,735 --> 00:10:36,915 away from the lake to feed and to breed 173 00:10:36,922 --> 00:10:38,852 during rainy season. 174 00:10:38,852 --> 00:10:42,132 So usually they just go to the small tributary 175 00:10:42,127 --> 00:10:46,767 along the lake. 176 00:10:52,755 --> 00:10:54,535 It seems that we do not have the catfish 177 00:10:54,535 --> 00:10:55,895 in the tank right now, 178 00:10:55,901 --> 00:11:00,061 but we're gonna go and find out where it is. 179 00:11:05,553 --> 00:11:08,813 There's one important species still missing, 180 00:11:08,807 --> 00:11:13,807 Clarias batrachus, the walking catfish. 181 00:11:14,327 --> 00:11:17,757 It's a remarkable creature whose no show could be a bad sign 182 00:11:17,761 --> 00:11:21,241 for the lakeside ecosystem. 183 00:11:24,000 --> 00:11:25,570 Although Sylyvann doesn't feel very comfortable 184 00:11:25,569 --> 00:11:26,989 on the water, 185 00:11:26,987 --> 00:11:29,477 he still has no hesitation about getting out there 186 00:11:29,484 --> 00:11:33,284 in this strange canoe come lifeboat contraption. 187 00:11:33,280 --> 00:11:35,180 Threading through the branches of the trees 188 00:11:35,178 --> 00:11:38,978 in search of the fish he hopes to catch. 189 00:11:39,722 --> 00:11:42,802 The scientist's determination finally pays off. 190 00:11:45,264 --> 00:11:48,504 - This is a walking catfish, 191 00:11:48,497 --> 00:11:53,497 it can definitely walk in the mud during dry season. 192 00:11:55,974 --> 00:11:57,904 It's a fish one must handle with caution, 193 00:11:57,904 --> 00:12:00,434 because of the stings in it's fins. 194 00:12:08,100 --> 00:12:09,630 Once the walking catfish, 195 00:12:09,626 --> 00:12:13,016 one of the lakes rare sedentary species, has been caught, 196 00:12:13,017 --> 00:12:15,187 the collection is complete. 197 00:12:15,192 --> 00:12:16,512 The lake is a full compliment of 198 00:12:16,506 --> 00:12:20,096 black, white, and gray fish species. 199 00:12:21,195 --> 00:12:22,175 Thanks to the flood, 200 00:12:22,176 --> 00:12:25,076 this year again there'll be good fishing. 201 00:12:34,421 --> 00:12:35,901 During the eight high water months, 202 00:12:35,904 --> 00:12:40,904 the inhabitants of Tonle Sap barely see dry land. 203 00:12:41,823 --> 00:12:43,373 The villages canals become clogged 204 00:12:43,368 --> 00:12:44,928 with the fishermen's boats, 205 00:12:44,927 --> 00:12:48,547 and fishing is once again the main activity. 206 00:12:51,166 --> 00:12:53,486 All of local life takes place on the water. 207 00:12:57,588 --> 00:12:59,338 They go to school by boat, 208 00:12:59,336 --> 00:13:02,126 move merchandise around by boat, 209 00:13:02,130 --> 00:13:04,370 there are even boats with ingenious hanging gardens 210 00:13:04,370 --> 00:13:08,240 for growing vegetables. 211 00:13:15,602 --> 00:13:17,962 The majority of those who fish Tonle Sap 212 00:13:17,959 --> 00:13:20,359 live on the water. 213 00:13:20,358 --> 00:13:23,928 Some opt for a fixed home with a house raised on stilts, 214 00:13:23,932 --> 00:13:27,852 which remains dry all year round. 215 00:13:33,708 --> 00:13:36,418 But in Prek Toal, most of the families have gone 216 00:13:36,415 --> 00:13:38,415 for the originally Vietnamese option 217 00:13:38,420 --> 00:13:40,350 of a floating habitat, 218 00:13:40,351 --> 00:13:44,301 made of boats with rafts moored between them. 219 00:13:44,297 --> 00:13:45,717 Just like the people who live in them, 220 00:13:45,717 --> 00:13:48,007 these boat houses adapt to every little change 221 00:13:48,009 --> 00:13:50,859 that occurs on Tonle Sap. 222 00:13:50,857 --> 00:13:52,427 They follow its movements, 223 00:13:52,425 --> 00:13:54,265 traveling up and down in accordance 224 00:13:54,270 --> 00:13:58,090 with the lake's own rhythm. 225 00:13:58,557 --> 00:14:02,727 Kuy Ann has always lived in just such a house. 226 00:14:04,595 --> 00:14:06,415 Like many other Tonle Sap fishermen, 227 00:14:06,418 --> 00:14:10,768 he raises Siamese Crocodiles in floating cages. 228 00:14:10,770 --> 00:14:13,130 Previously present in great numbers in the lake, 229 00:14:13,127 --> 00:14:18,127 these creatures are now rare in the wild. 230 00:14:18,203 --> 00:14:21,613 In a few months, once these have grown big enough, 231 00:14:21,605 --> 00:14:25,475 the best specimens will be sold in Vietnam or Thailand 232 00:14:25,478 --> 00:14:30,178 where their skin will be used to make bags and shoes. 233 00:14:36,165 --> 00:14:40,355 Kuy Ann's favorite lodgers are not his crocodiles however, 234 00:14:40,361 --> 00:14:44,481 but farmed fish of a quite unusual size. 235 00:14:44,478 --> 00:14:47,548 He wouldn't part with these for any price. 236 00:14:51,431 --> 00:14:53,811 They're Panga, giant catfish, 237 00:14:53,811 --> 00:14:56,941 which can weigh as much as 50 to 70 kilos. 238 00:14:56,936 --> 00:15:00,306 These are about five years old. 239 00:15:03,805 --> 00:15:06,605 All around here, in fact all around the lake, 240 00:15:06,609 --> 00:15:10,469 I'm the only person to have any. 241 00:15:10,469 --> 00:15:14,989 I'm very proud of them and take good care of them. 242 00:15:17,189 --> 00:15:18,469 Once they're big enough, 243 00:15:18,470 --> 00:15:22,110 these fish can fetch a good price. 244 00:15:22,107 --> 00:15:25,787 But I'm growing them for their symbolic power. 245 00:15:25,786 --> 00:15:29,216 I want to save them for the younger generation. 246 00:15:29,221 --> 00:15:30,551 Tonle Sap is very important 247 00:15:30,554 --> 00:15:33,744 to everyone in Cambodia. 248 00:15:33,742 --> 00:15:38,742 It feeds the people, it's fish provide us with protein, 249 00:15:40,857 --> 00:15:45,167 and we can cook all sorts of different dishes with them. 250 00:15:50,220 --> 00:15:52,490 We sell our fish in the neighboring countries 251 00:15:52,492 --> 00:15:56,732 as well as in Cambodia itself. 252 00:15:56,727 --> 00:15:58,407 The entire population of the country 253 00:15:58,412 --> 00:16:01,222 depends on the lake. 254 00:16:05,313 --> 00:16:09,103 The water goes on rising until October. 255 00:16:09,099 --> 00:16:11,099 By the time it reaches the highest level, 256 00:16:11,104 --> 00:16:15,584 only the flooded forest treetops can still be seen. 257 00:16:20,266 --> 00:16:23,676 The fish then disperse throughout the now immense lake, 258 00:16:23,679 --> 00:16:25,159 and the nomad fisher families, 259 00:16:25,162 --> 00:16:28,642 have no other choice but to accompany their migration. 260 00:16:32,905 --> 00:16:33,935 We have to find a spot 261 00:16:33,940 --> 00:16:35,400 where the water isn't so deep, 262 00:16:35,400 --> 00:16:37,110 and where there are more fish. 263 00:16:38,494 --> 00:16:40,704 Yes, there are too few fish here now. 264 00:16:40,701 --> 00:16:42,581 We have to move. 265 00:16:44,541 --> 00:16:45,501 We'll get ready to move 266 00:16:45,501 --> 00:16:47,301 as quickly as we can. 267 00:16:49,096 --> 00:16:50,076 In search of a more promising 268 00:16:50,076 --> 00:16:51,386 fishing spot, 269 00:16:51,389 --> 00:16:53,789 Folk See's family prepare to weigh anchor, 270 00:16:53,789 --> 00:16:57,559 taking with them everything they own. 271 00:16:57,564 --> 00:16:59,274 The fisherman and his son lash together 272 00:16:59,271 --> 00:17:04,191 the house, the fish tanks, and the precious floating garden. 273 00:17:17,594 --> 00:17:19,974 Towed by a tiny powered canoe, 274 00:17:19,973 --> 00:17:23,173 the impressive convoy gets underway. 275 00:17:23,173 --> 00:17:24,933 It's the right time to be moving 276 00:17:24,933 --> 00:17:27,093 because the storms will soon come, 277 00:17:27,088 --> 00:17:28,348 and getting around the lake will become 278 00:17:28,346 --> 00:17:32,496 a dangerous undertaking. 279 00:17:39,793 --> 00:17:41,643 The fishing families move their homes in this way 280 00:17:41,638 --> 00:17:43,448 up to 12 times a year, 281 00:17:43,451 --> 00:17:47,621 going wherever the migrating fish lead them. 282 00:17:47,622 --> 00:17:51,542 This peripatetic existence is the price these families pay 283 00:17:51,537 --> 00:17:53,627 in order to live in constant harmony 284 00:17:53,627 --> 00:17:56,047 with the resources of the lake. 285 00:18:00,930 --> 00:18:04,040 On an assignment for the World Conservation Society, 286 00:18:04,040 --> 00:18:06,890 biologist Simon Mahood, sets out from Kampong Phluk 287 00:18:06,890 --> 00:18:08,490 for the Flooded Forest, 288 00:18:08,490 --> 00:18:09,950 the most unusual ecosystem 289 00:18:09,951 --> 00:18:13,131 throughout the whole of Tonle Sap. 290 00:18:13,130 --> 00:18:16,320 Covered in water for several months of the year, 291 00:18:16,319 --> 00:18:18,729 this remarkable forest is able to survive 292 00:18:18,729 --> 00:18:21,419 thanks to vegetation equally well adapted 293 00:18:21,417 --> 00:18:24,537 to life under water as in the air. 294 00:18:24,542 --> 00:18:27,432 It's an ecosystem that used to cover 10,000 square meters, 295 00:18:27,432 --> 00:18:32,082 but now only a fraction of that still remains. 296 00:18:32,082 --> 00:18:35,122 Making it all the more precious. 297 00:18:35,794 --> 00:18:38,954 - The Tonle Sap supports a huge area of flooded forest, 298 00:18:38,950 --> 00:18:41,770 about 300 kilometers square. 299 00:18:41,767 --> 00:18:44,187 There are only four or five species of trees 300 00:18:44,188 --> 00:18:46,748 able to survive these harsh conditions 301 00:18:46,748 --> 00:18:50,718 of the drought and the flood every year. 302 00:18:51,868 --> 00:18:53,148 At this period of the year, 303 00:18:53,147 --> 00:18:54,307 the most interesting specimens 304 00:18:54,310 --> 00:18:57,170 are to be found under the water. 305 00:18:57,234 --> 00:18:58,964 Have you got one? 306 00:18:58,960 --> 00:19:02,400 Yes, yes this is it. 307 00:19:02,395 --> 00:19:05,065 This is the only tree that photosynthesizes 308 00:19:05,072 --> 00:19:08,002 under water in the Tonle Sap. 309 00:19:07,995 --> 00:19:12,225 Barringtonia acutangula , this is incredible. 310 00:19:12,231 --> 00:19:14,041 This tree doesn't loose it's leaves, 311 00:19:14,035 --> 00:19:16,045 even when it is inundated by water 312 00:19:16,051 --> 00:19:17,881 for five whole months. 313 00:19:17,876 --> 00:19:19,556 The fish swim amongst it's branches, 314 00:19:19,561 --> 00:19:22,611 and they take food off the leaves. 315 00:19:22,612 --> 00:19:26,432 The tree also produces flowers and fruits under water, 316 00:19:26,430 --> 00:19:29,750 and so the flowers are pollinated by fish, 317 00:19:29,746 --> 00:19:32,746 and the seeds are dispersed by fish also. 318 00:19:32,754 --> 00:19:35,214 It's amazing. 319 00:19:42,344 --> 00:19:46,524 The Barringtonia is incredibly important for local people. 320 00:19:46,524 --> 00:19:48,574 It has shiny, waxy leaves, 321 00:19:48,572 --> 00:19:51,952 local people pick them and put them in salads and soups. 322 00:19:51,953 --> 00:19:54,473 The roots of the tree have also traditionally been used 323 00:19:54,471 --> 00:19:59,351 to treat Malaria and other diseases. 324 00:20:09,477 --> 00:20:11,067 Most of the trees around us, 325 00:20:11,066 --> 00:20:13,036 and indeed most of the trees in the Tonle Sap, 326 00:20:13,038 --> 00:20:16,228 are the Barringtonia trees. 327 00:20:16,228 --> 00:20:18,008 But this tree close to us here 328 00:20:18,009 --> 00:20:23,009 this is the. 329 00:20:23,577 --> 00:20:28,147 This is an incredibly important tree for the water birds. 330 00:20:28,152 --> 00:20:30,022 This tree grows very tall, 331 00:20:30,019 --> 00:20:32,419 it makes a safe place to rear their young 332 00:20:32,418 --> 00:20:34,528 and it's the reason why there are so many 333 00:20:34,530 --> 00:20:39,110 storks, pelicans, and otters in the Tonle Sap. 334 00:20:41,015 --> 00:20:43,275 This nurturing forest, which is as much 335 00:20:43,281 --> 00:20:45,561 a nursery for fish as it is for birds, 336 00:20:45,560 --> 00:20:49,820 is an incredible boon for lakeside biodiversity. 337 00:20:51,349 --> 00:20:56,339 Wet forests like this are very rare in Asia today. 338 00:20:57,570 --> 00:21:00,740 So important and unique is this fresh water mangrove swamp, 339 00:21:00,737 --> 00:21:05,737 that UNESCO classified it as a biosphere reserve in 1997. 340 00:21:14,112 --> 00:21:16,632 The birds know that during the high water period, 341 00:21:16,628 --> 00:21:19,978 the treetops provide a safe haven. 342 00:21:21,386 --> 00:21:23,796 During this season, ornithologist Sun Wisal, 343 00:21:23,795 --> 00:21:27,865 visits his feathered proteges almost every day. 344 00:21:28,916 --> 00:21:30,846 We'll try over there. 345 00:21:30,846 --> 00:21:32,866 Over there. 346 00:21:37,842 --> 00:21:40,272 The Prek Toal reserve is a bird sanctuary 347 00:21:40,273 --> 00:21:42,003 born of a collaboration between 348 00:21:42,001 --> 00:21:44,001 French Association Osmose, 349 00:21:43,996 --> 00:21:46,946 and the Wildlife Conservation Society. 350 00:21:48,722 --> 00:21:50,022 Hello. 351 00:21:52,465 --> 00:21:53,225 The park rangers 352 00:21:53,234 --> 00:21:56,874 are almost all former poachers. 353 00:21:58,704 --> 00:22:00,824 Perched high in the Barringtonia treetops 354 00:22:00,817 --> 00:22:02,767 like the birds they observe, 355 00:22:02,768 --> 00:22:05,348 Sun Wisal's team keep 30 or so platforms 356 00:22:05,349 --> 00:22:07,349 permanently manned. 357 00:22:07,352 --> 00:22:10,772 Okay, let's look at the data. 358 00:22:10,765 --> 00:22:13,865 A zero means a youngster that survived to adulthood, 359 00:22:13,869 --> 00:22:15,229 is that right? 360 00:22:15,234 --> 00:22:17,104 Yes. 361 00:22:17,100 --> 00:22:21,610 So in all that makes 4,012 birds, 362 00:22:21,611 --> 00:22:24,401 and 400 nests. 363 00:22:26,752 --> 00:22:28,582 The constant surveillance of the nests 364 00:22:28,575 --> 00:22:32,745 has considerably reduced the poaching of the eggs. 365 00:22:41,887 --> 00:22:43,407 In order to get a closer look, 366 00:22:43,411 --> 00:22:47,801 Sun Wisal has had special observation platforms made. 367 00:22:47,796 --> 00:22:49,876 The raft has to be maneuvered by oar, 368 00:22:49,876 --> 00:22:52,916 and positioned with extreme care. 369 00:22:52,915 --> 00:22:54,275 And then there might be a long wait 370 00:22:54,280 --> 00:22:56,370 of several hours before the birds 371 00:22:56,372 --> 00:22:59,592 dare to return to their nests. 372 00:23:02,727 --> 00:23:05,347 It's Tonle Sap's hydro logical cycle, 373 00:23:05,351 --> 00:23:10,351 which gives the whole region such a rich biodiversity. 374 00:23:12,198 --> 00:23:16,828 The fish get all the food they need in the lake. 375 00:23:18,907 --> 00:23:21,217 And it's because of the fish that the birds nest 376 00:23:21,222 --> 00:23:23,362 and lay their eggs here, 377 00:23:23,358 --> 00:23:25,058 because of the abundance of fish. 378 00:23:25,062 --> 00:23:27,442 The lake attracts certain species of birds 379 00:23:27,440 --> 00:23:31,690 that are going extinct all over Southeast Asia. 380 00:23:31,685 --> 00:23:33,565 They spend six months here, 381 00:23:33,574 --> 00:23:37,214 time enough for them to reproduce. 382 00:23:39,705 --> 00:23:42,895 That's the reserve of the Black Bellied Darters, 383 00:23:42,895 --> 00:23:45,265 we also call them Snake Birds. 384 00:23:45,270 --> 00:23:47,580 They are a species threatened with extinction 385 00:23:47,583 --> 00:23:49,793 around the world. 386 00:23:53,512 --> 00:23:57,642 In 2002, there were only 250 couples left. 387 00:23:57,641 --> 00:23:59,331 But today in 2014, 388 00:23:59,326 --> 00:24:02,126 their population has increased to 7,000 couples, 389 00:24:02,132 --> 00:24:04,152 and the number is still growing. 390 00:24:08,531 --> 00:24:12,241 The reserve is unique in Southeast Asia. 391 00:24:15,655 --> 00:24:16,935 There are so many of them that they 392 00:24:16,936 --> 00:24:20,316 completely cover the trees, it's amazing. 393 00:24:22,907 --> 00:24:24,717 But this constant surveillance of the birds 394 00:24:24,721 --> 00:24:26,321 is not enough. 395 00:24:26,321 --> 00:24:28,661 Some effort must be made to involve the local people 396 00:24:28,656 --> 00:24:30,736 in their protection. 397 00:24:30,736 --> 00:24:32,216 Sun Wisal knows that school children 398 00:24:32,219 --> 00:24:33,619 from the surrounding villages, 399 00:24:33,617 --> 00:24:37,387 will make excellent spokespersons for his cause. 400 00:24:37,391 --> 00:24:41,501 What does the red poster show? 401 00:24:43,938 --> 00:24:45,548 The birds of Tonle Sap 402 00:24:45,551 --> 00:24:47,331 that are under threat. 403 00:24:48,207 --> 00:24:51,057 Who can show me the Egret? 404 00:24:51,056 --> 00:24:53,226 Have you ever seen one? 405 00:24:53,231 --> 00:24:54,961 Or eaten one? 406 00:24:54,958 --> 00:24:57,518 No. 407 00:24:59,268 --> 00:25:00,528 By initiating the lakes children 408 00:25:00,526 --> 00:25:02,506 into the practice of bird watching, 409 00:25:02,510 --> 00:25:05,090 Sun Wisal hopes to make them understand the importance 410 00:25:05,092 --> 00:25:09,582 of preserving Tonle Sap's rare species. 411 00:25:10,436 --> 00:25:12,826 Darters, Storks, Ibis's, and Herons 412 00:25:12,834 --> 00:25:15,074 will soon take to the skies once again 413 00:25:15,074 --> 00:25:18,024 on their migratory journey. 414 00:25:18,017 --> 00:25:22,697 They wont return to Prek Toal for several months. 415 00:25:23,457 --> 00:25:25,427 Every year dozens of bird species, 416 00:25:25,431 --> 00:25:28,601 including some that are now extremely rare, 417 00:25:28,598 --> 00:25:32,608 find a precious refuge here. 418 00:25:52,148 --> 00:25:54,398 At the end of October when the water level 419 00:25:54,399 --> 00:25:55,519 is at its highest, 420 00:25:55,519 --> 00:25:58,939 the lake is covered with water Hyacinths. 421 00:26:00,416 --> 00:26:03,036 This invasive plant, originally from Amazonia, 422 00:26:03,039 --> 00:26:06,279 chokes Tonle Sap. 423 00:26:06,282 --> 00:26:08,862 It makes boating and fishing difficult, 424 00:26:08,862 --> 00:26:13,652 and uses up a lot of the lake's precious oxygen. 425 00:26:15,432 --> 00:26:17,522 The women of Prek Toal form small teams 426 00:26:17,523 --> 00:26:19,393 which do their best to free the lake 427 00:26:19,389 --> 00:26:22,759 from the plant's strangle hold. 428 00:26:31,152 --> 00:26:34,052 They scythe the Hyacinths by the armful. 429 00:26:34,053 --> 00:26:37,643 Their roots are used as compost, 430 00:26:37,638 --> 00:26:39,238 the flowers are eaten, 431 00:26:39,239 --> 00:26:44,219 and the stems are plaited to make hammocks. 432 00:26:44,218 --> 00:26:45,568 This way the women of Prek Toal 433 00:26:45,573 --> 00:26:47,813 have turned this yearly scourge 434 00:26:47,813 --> 00:26:51,033 into a useful resource. 435 00:26:54,554 --> 00:26:56,614 When the water Hyacinths are proliferating, 436 00:26:56,611 --> 00:26:59,331 and the snakes are swimming at the surface, 437 00:26:59,334 --> 00:27:01,904 the water has reached its peak. 438 00:27:01,904 --> 00:27:06,904 For Kuy Ann, it's time to start a new type of fishing. 439 00:27:07,930 --> 00:27:10,640 This one's been dead a while. 440 00:27:10,640 --> 00:27:12,370 The Hyacinth groves are the preferred 441 00:27:12,367 --> 00:27:14,127 habitat of the water snakes 442 00:27:14,127 --> 00:27:17,767 and the small fish on which they feed. 443 00:27:17,765 --> 00:27:20,565 These reptiles, most of which are not poisonous, 444 00:27:20,570 --> 00:27:22,190 have no chance of escaping the nets 445 00:27:22,190 --> 00:27:25,650 placed by Kuy Ann during the night. 446 00:27:25,647 --> 00:27:28,357 In only a few hours, he manages to catch dozens 447 00:27:28,356 --> 00:27:31,016 and he prefers them still alive. 448 00:27:32,023 --> 00:27:32,943 Throw it in the tank, 449 00:27:32,941 --> 00:27:35,041 that one's still alive. 450 00:27:39,000 --> 00:27:40,010 The thousands of snakes 451 00:27:40,013 --> 00:27:42,043 caught daily in the Tonle Sap, 452 00:27:42,040 --> 00:27:44,730 are not destined for the fishermen's dining tables, 453 00:27:44,727 --> 00:27:48,507 but for feeding their precious crocodiles. 454 00:27:49,922 --> 00:27:52,052 During this season, snake replaces fish 455 00:27:52,054 --> 00:27:55,294 on the crocodile's menu. 456 00:27:55,287 --> 00:27:57,417 Every year Tonle Sap's farmed crocodiles 457 00:27:57,420 --> 00:28:01,140 consume millions of these snakes. 458 00:28:01,143 --> 00:28:03,623 It's the most extensive concerted snake hunt 459 00:28:03,616 --> 00:28:06,376 anywhere in the world. 460 00:28:17,065 --> 00:28:21,105 In November, the water level starts to drop. 461 00:28:21,108 --> 00:28:23,568 The phenomenon which began five months ago 462 00:28:23,572 --> 00:28:26,572 now reverses and the flow of the water changes 463 00:28:26,570 --> 00:28:27,930 for the second time. 464 00:28:31,008 --> 00:28:32,938 Nature and people must once again 465 00:28:32,939 --> 00:28:36,399 adapt to the changes forced on them by the lake. 466 00:28:40,617 --> 00:28:43,097 The Mekong's flow is considerably diminished, 467 00:28:43,103 --> 00:28:45,893 and the Tonle Sap river can finally resume its role 468 00:28:45,887 --> 00:28:49,687 as an outlet. 469 00:28:49,685 --> 00:28:53,075 The water flows once again from the lake to the river, 470 00:28:53,076 --> 00:28:57,076 and Tonle Sap begins to empty out. 471 00:28:57,075 --> 00:28:59,805 The beating heart of Cambodia contracts, 472 00:28:59,806 --> 00:29:03,446 as its vital precious liquid pours away. 473 00:29:03,454 --> 00:29:07,264 It's the beginning of a new period in the life of the lake, 474 00:29:07,260 --> 00:29:09,700 the low water season. 475 00:29:10,344 --> 00:29:12,344 The lake doesn't disappear entirely, 476 00:29:12,338 --> 00:29:13,958 but in a few months its surface area 477 00:29:13,959 --> 00:29:16,609 shrinks from 15,000 square kilometers, 478 00:29:16,606 --> 00:29:19,666 to only 3,000. 479 00:29:19,666 --> 00:29:22,826 It's a clear signal for the fish. 480 00:29:22,825 --> 00:29:24,805 Faithful to their lake, the black fish 481 00:29:24,807 --> 00:29:29,357 prepare to spend the dry season hidden in the mud. 482 00:29:29,361 --> 00:29:32,061 The gray fish seek refuge in the smaller tributaries, 483 00:29:32,060 --> 00:29:35,310 but the white fish, guided by instinct, 484 00:29:35,312 --> 00:29:38,482 know that it is time to abandon the lake, 485 00:29:38,479 --> 00:29:42,219 now become too small for them. 486 00:29:42,216 --> 00:29:44,306 They leave the lake in which they grew up, 487 00:29:44,307 --> 00:29:47,857 reach the Mekong, and then head up stream 488 00:29:47,856 --> 00:29:50,616 to the falls further North. 489 00:29:51,492 --> 00:29:54,372 But their voyage up stream is not without its dangers. 490 00:29:54,372 --> 00:29:56,462 They have to get past the dice, 491 00:29:56,462 --> 00:30:01,242 the formidable floating fisheries which bar their way. 492 00:30:01,240 --> 00:30:02,650 This is where the Cambodian fishermen 493 00:30:02,648 --> 00:30:04,788 are waiting for them. 494 00:30:04,792 --> 00:30:07,322 On the dice, the fishing is quite miraculous, 495 00:30:07,320 --> 00:30:10,270 with an enormous daily catch. 496 00:30:35,114 --> 00:30:39,664 In all, over 15,000 tons of fish are caught here every year, 497 00:30:39,658 --> 00:30:44,078 all thanks to Tonle Sap's incredible fecundity. 498 00:30:50,858 --> 00:30:54,518 The most sought after species are sold in the local markets, 499 00:30:54,516 --> 00:30:57,416 while the rest is made into prahok, 500 00:30:57,416 --> 00:31:00,836 a fish paste which can be kept for months. 501 00:31:05,161 --> 00:31:08,311 Only 20% of the fish manage to escape the nets, 502 00:31:08,307 --> 00:31:11,087 but this appears to be enough for the migrating species 503 00:31:11,091 --> 00:31:14,151 to reproduce. 504 00:31:14,145 --> 00:31:16,005 As perserverant as salmon, 505 00:31:16,012 --> 00:31:17,812 the escaped fish continue their journey 506 00:31:17,814 --> 00:31:19,874 for 20 days and 20 nights 507 00:31:19,873 --> 00:31:23,723 on towards the Laotian border. 508 00:31:24,384 --> 00:31:26,354 Before them looms the final obstacle, 509 00:31:26,347 --> 00:31:29,377 keeping them from their spawning beds, 510 00:31:29,376 --> 00:31:32,936 the rapids at Cyf Andong. 511 00:31:32,937 --> 00:31:33,947 Beyond these falls, 512 00:31:33,951 --> 00:31:37,081 and the tumultuous waters of the Mekong's tributaries, 513 00:31:37,076 --> 00:31:41,726 Tonle Sap's white fish finally reach their spawning beds. 514 00:31:47,135 --> 00:31:49,225 At the next monsoon, their tiny young 515 00:31:49,225 --> 00:31:51,685 will swim back down the Mekong, 516 00:31:51,688 --> 00:31:53,618 so that they too can grow to adulthood 517 00:31:53,618 --> 00:31:56,728 in the muddy water of the great lake. 518 00:32:02,088 --> 00:32:04,398 The Mekong's falls are spectacular, 519 00:32:04,402 --> 00:32:07,492 but very hard to get to. 520 00:32:07,494 --> 00:32:11,334 It's a spot that Thai photgrapher, Suthep Kritsanavarin, 521 00:32:11,334 --> 00:32:14,354 has become particularly fond of. 522 00:32:14,780 --> 00:32:17,430 For the last 10 years, he's been coming back every year 523 00:32:17,425 --> 00:32:21,405 to photograph the fishermen of the Mekong rapids. 524 00:32:26,522 --> 00:32:27,782 Throughout the whole Mekong 525 00:32:27,781 --> 00:32:31,101 they have special places for fishing. 526 00:32:31,099 --> 00:32:33,009 One is in Tonle Sap in Cambodia, 527 00:32:33,007 --> 00:32:37,427 and the other one is in Cyf Andong in Laos. 528 00:32:37,434 --> 00:32:40,184 And the people use many special fishing techniques. 529 00:32:40,176 --> 00:32:42,046 Here we can see the rapids 530 00:32:42,052 --> 00:32:43,772 and the really strong waterfalls, 531 00:32:43,769 --> 00:32:47,399 where they're trying to catch some of the fish. 532 00:32:53,736 --> 00:32:56,946 Here, Cyf Andong is in the middle, 533 00:32:56,945 --> 00:33:00,025 at least 200 species have to pass along this route 534 00:33:00,028 --> 00:33:01,828 to the North. 535 00:33:09,404 --> 00:33:11,074 Because he's willing to take the same risks 536 00:33:11,067 --> 00:33:12,907 as the acrobatic fishermen, 537 00:33:12,912 --> 00:33:14,612 Suthep has gained their trust 538 00:33:14,608 --> 00:33:19,118 and been able to take his incredible photos. 539 00:33:22,767 --> 00:33:26,107 In 2011, the fishermen of Cyf Andong, 540 00:33:26,106 --> 00:33:28,106 finally managed to catch the mythical fish 541 00:33:28,111 --> 00:33:30,781 they've been after for years. 542 00:33:32,728 --> 00:33:34,448 The most important picture for me, 543 00:33:34,446 --> 00:33:36,476 is the giant catfish that they caught 544 00:33:36,484 --> 00:33:38,164 in the Soham channel. 545 00:33:38,157 --> 00:33:39,907 So I was waiting for that shot 546 00:33:39,905 --> 00:33:42,215 for two or three years. 547 00:33:42,221 --> 00:33:44,151 When I saw it, I was really excited 548 00:33:44,150 --> 00:33:49,150 because it was there in its natural environment. 549 00:33:50,208 --> 00:33:52,988 I know it's really important because that is the one picture 550 00:33:52,992 --> 00:33:56,272 that can show many things, 551 00:33:56,266 --> 00:33:58,126 because there had been no evidence before 552 00:33:58,132 --> 00:34:02,402 that these fish travel a very long way to Tonle Sap lake, 553 00:34:02,399 --> 00:34:04,589 and then thousands of kilometers past here 554 00:34:04,586 --> 00:34:07,296 to the North of Thailand to spawn. 555 00:34:10,174 --> 00:34:11,794 The giant catfish is one of the last 556 00:34:11,785 --> 00:34:14,655 representatives of a species that used to be found 557 00:34:14,664 --> 00:34:17,454 in Tonle Sap. 558 00:34:17,811 --> 00:34:19,541 Today only a few rare specimens, 559 00:34:19,539 --> 00:34:23,149 still lives in the rapids of Cyf Andong. 560 00:34:37,201 --> 00:34:39,791 In May, several months after the second reversal 561 00:34:39,793 --> 00:34:40,943 of the water flow, 562 00:34:40,935 --> 00:34:45,575 Tonle Sap has reached its lowest level. 563 00:34:46,502 --> 00:34:48,572 Rice fields and roads reappear, 564 00:34:48,572 --> 00:34:51,362 where before there was only water, 565 00:34:51,355 --> 00:34:53,935 the mud which is omnipresent in this season, 566 00:34:53,936 --> 00:34:56,006 is not considered a problem, 567 00:34:56,005 --> 00:35:00,135 but a great treasure offered up by the lake. 568 00:35:00,138 --> 00:35:03,548 The sediment brought by the flood is deposited everywhere. 569 00:35:03,551 --> 00:35:07,041 This mixture of earth and water makes an ideal soil 570 00:35:07,037 --> 00:35:10,637 in which to grow rice. 571 00:35:13,372 --> 00:35:14,862 For the inhabitants of Tonle Sap, 572 00:35:14,855 --> 00:35:17,595 a new life now begins. 573 00:35:17,596 --> 00:35:19,526 Fishing becomes a secondary activity, 574 00:35:19,527 --> 00:35:22,807 carried out by children and old men. 575 00:35:26,192 --> 00:35:28,302 Yesterday's fishermen have put away their boats 576 00:35:28,304 --> 00:35:32,734 and turned into farmers for a season. 577 00:35:32,731 --> 00:35:34,861 There's no time to lose, 578 00:35:34,864 --> 00:35:36,354 barely have the waters receded 579 00:35:36,346 --> 00:35:38,516 before they're working the soil, 580 00:35:38,523 --> 00:35:41,393 planting and then harvesting. 581 00:35:41,391 --> 00:35:42,831 The few months before the next flood 582 00:35:42,831 --> 00:35:47,221 are just enough to ensure the yearly rice harvest. 583 00:35:49,369 --> 00:35:53,459 Kompong Phluk has emerged from the lake. 584 00:35:54,019 --> 00:35:55,569 The usually water bound lake village 585 00:35:55,566 --> 00:35:59,396 can now be walked through. 586 00:35:59,397 --> 00:36:01,197 On either side of the village, 587 00:36:01,200 --> 00:36:03,420 a narrow muddy channel is all that remains 588 00:36:03,417 --> 00:36:05,757 of the great lake. 589 00:36:07,151 --> 00:36:08,381 The elevated kamare houses 590 00:36:08,377 --> 00:36:10,647 are now only accessible by ladder. 591 00:36:14,025 --> 00:36:17,315 A few stubborn fishermen still apply their trade, 592 00:36:17,320 --> 00:36:21,660 but all the others have already opted for life on the land. 593 00:36:25,705 --> 00:36:27,755 Fishing biologists at the World Fish Center 594 00:36:27,763 --> 00:36:31,133 Eric Baran has been carefully observing Tonle Sap 595 00:36:31,133 --> 00:36:35,203 for almost 20 years. 596 00:36:35,196 --> 00:36:37,646 In between his research missions on the Mekong, 597 00:36:37,650 --> 00:36:39,350 the scientist regularly returns 598 00:36:39,345 --> 00:36:41,595 to check the health of the lake. 599 00:36:44,380 --> 00:36:46,310 It's a real pleasure for me to come back now, 600 00:36:46,310 --> 00:36:48,240 because when we were here in August, 601 00:36:48,241 --> 00:36:50,251 the water reached all the way up to the houses, 602 00:36:50,246 --> 00:36:52,056 and now look at the difference. 603 00:36:52,059 --> 00:36:53,789 You can see all the fishing apparatus, 604 00:36:53,787 --> 00:36:56,167 the forest of wooden stilts. 605 00:36:56,166 --> 00:36:57,176 They're taking this opportunity 606 00:36:57,179 --> 00:36:59,269 to repair their fishing gear. 607 00:37:00,166 --> 00:37:01,176 During the dry season, 608 00:37:01,178 --> 00:37:02,928 the inhabitants of Kampong Phluk 609 00:37:02,928 --> 00:37:04,468 devote a lot of time to the maintenance 610 00:37:04,474 --> 00:37:08,034 of their fishing equipment. 611 00:37:08,025 --> 00:37:11,275 Life on land kicks off again at the feet of the spider house 612 00:37:11,279 --> 00:37:14,489 and kids relearn how to ride their bikes. 613 00:37:14,489 --> 00:37:15,659 They play ball next to the prawns 614 00:37:15,663 --> 00:37:18,003 spread out to dry on the ground. 615 00:37:17,999 --> 00:37:20,299 On the very spot where a few months earlier 616 00:37:20,301 --> 00:37:22,221 they were swimming. 617 00:37:30,755 --> 00:37:32,545 Everyone makes the most of Tonle Sap's 618 00:37:32,546 --> 00:37:34,336 low water season, 619 00:37:34,338 --> 00:37:36,088 of the time and space it gives them 620 00:37:36,087 --> 00:37:38,477 to carry out repairs on their homes, boats, 621 00:37:38,476 --> 00:37:40,576 and fishing nets. 622 00:37:42,765 --> 00:37:43,945 There are just over a million people 623 00:37:43,948 --> 00:37:47,298 who really do depend on the water and the fishing. 624 00:37:47,297 --> 00:37:49,387 These people consume over 40 kilograms 625 00:37:49,387 --> 00:37:51,457 of fish each per year. 626 00:37:51,456 --> 00:37:55,066 That comes out at 100 grams per person per day. 627 00:37:56,501 --> 00:37:57,651 Which shows to what extent this lake 628 00:37:57,653 --> 00:38:00,953 really does nourish an entire population. 629 00:38:03,669 --> 00:38:05,119 From an ecological point of view, 630 00:38:05,119 --> 00:38:07,839 it really is an exceptional lake. 631 00:38:07,842 --> 00:38:09,532 The surface area changes five fold 632 00:38:09,527 --> 00:38:10,827 and at it's maximum, 633 00:38:10,828 --> 00:38:13,898 it is roughly the size or Corsica. 634 00:38:13,900 --> 00:38:16,320 Then when it shrinks to its minimum, 635 00:38:16,321 --> 00:38:18,331 it becomes extremely hard for the fish species 636 00:38:18,326 --> 00:38:22,086 to survive because it's so shallow. 637 00:38:22,091 --> 00:38:24,321 It goes from a depth of about eight meters, 638 00:38:24,321 --> 00:38:29,221 to just one meter, or even half a meter. 639 00:38:29,216 --> 00:38:32,046 The water gets very warm, and there's very little oxygen, 640 00:38:32,045 --> 00:38:34,555 so there are few species that can survive. 641 00:38:54,899 --> 00:38:57,079 Besides small fry and prawns, 642 00:38:57,075 --> 00:38:58,515 which remain abundant, 643 00:38:58,515 --> 00:39:00,135 the sedentary blackfish species 644 00:39:00,136 --> 00:39:03,226 are still present in the lake. 645 00:39:04,402 --> 00:39:07,032 To catch them, there's no need of a net, 646 00:39:07,026 --> 00:39:10,256 a simple creole suffices. 647 00:39:10,261 --> 00:39:15,261 In this season the flooded forest is one big quagmire. 648 00:39:16,575 --> 00:39:20,065 To fish that don't migrate bury themselves into the mud, 649 00:39:20,074 --> 00:39:21,814 where they're easy prey for as experienced 650 00:39:21,812 --> 00:39:24,062 of fishermen as Kuy Ann. 651 00:39:30,473 --> 00:39:34,183 I've caught a walking fish. 652 00:39:36,062 --> 00:39:39,702 It's a fish that survives in the mud. 653 00:39:39,698 --> 00:39:41,518 It's a really clever fish, 654 00:39:41,523 --> 00:39:44,903 because it can adapt to both seasons. 655 00:39:45,405 --> 00:39:48,555 It can get around and move over land like that. 656 00:39:52,478 --> 00:39:54,008 The changes that the lake undergoes, 657 00:39:54,013 --> 00:39:56,093 have led to the striped Shauna, 658 00:39:56,093 --> 00:39:58,793 evolving the ability to move about on land 659 00:39:58,790 --> 00:40:01,440 during the dry season. 660 00:40:02,747 --> 00:40:05,297 The amazing fish, which has both gills 661 00:40:05,297 --> 00:40:08,577 and a primitive lung, can breathe air 662 00:40:08,582 --> 00:40:13,532 and uses its fins to walk out of the water. 663 00:40:14,129 --> 00:40:16,389 Half aquatic, half terrestrial, 664 00:40:16,389 --> 00:40:18,699 it really is a perfect symbol for the inhabitants 665 00:40:18,704 --> 00:40:21,004 of Tonle Sap. 666 00:40:22,585 --> 00:40:25,665 By stubbornly continuing to fish during the dry season, 667 00:40:25,669 --> 00:40:28,589 Kuy Ann is something of an exception. 668 00:40:28,591 --> 00:40:31,121 Most of the villagers devote themselves during these months 669 00:40:31,118 --> 00:40:34,668 to their rice fields. 670 00:40:34,671 --> 00:40:35,731 It's also in the rice fields 671 00:40:35,727 --> 00:40:40,087 that most of Tonle Sap's water snakes take refuge. 672 00:40:40,089 --> 00:40:43,099 This is where Neang Thy comes to hunt them. 673 00:40:44,578 --> 00:40:47,018 Considered one of Cambodia's top reptile expert, 674 00:40:47,021 --> 00:40:49,401 this scientist is here to study the effect 675 00:40:49,400 --> 00:40:51,610 of the intensive hunting of the past few months 676 00:40:51,607 --> 00:40:54,217 has had on these creatures. 677 00:40:56,044 --> 00:40:58,954 - Oh this is a rainbow snake. 678 00:40:58,946 --> 00:41:03,206 This is a species that's very common in Tonle Sap 679 00:41:03,212 --> 00:41:06,432 and around Cambodia. 680 00:41:19,766 --> 00:41:23,346 Tonle Sap is the place where you can find 681 00:41:23,349 --> 00:41:25,419 the most water snakes, 682 00:41:25,419 --> 00:41:29,619 but we don't know how many there are in the water. 683 00:41:29,621 --> 00:41:34,421 Previous study recorded that four to seven million 684 00:41:34,421 --> 00:41:39,181 water snakes have been hunted every year. 685 00:41:40,734 --> 00:41:44,334 People around Tonle Sap they waste snake 686 00:41:44,329 --> 00:41:47,869 to sell for the crocodile farm. 687 00:41:47,869 --> 00:41:50,589 And because the crocodile farm is pleasing, 688 00:41:50,589 --> 00:41:55,589 and they take water snake to feed the crocodile. 689 00:41:56,296 --> 00:42:01,296 And most water snakes also collected for 690 00:42:01,458 --> 00:42:04,578 local consumption, for skin, 691 00:42:04,583 --> 00:42:08,733 for thread to neighboring country. 692 00:42:08,732 --> 00:42:10,842 It's brought to China, it's brought to Thai, 693 00:42:10,843 --> 00:42:13,633 it's brought to Vietnam. 694 00:42:14,928 --> 00:42:19,598 People reported that they used to buy 695 00:42:19,601 --> 00:42:22,871 50 kilogram from one place of water snake, 696 00:42:22,874 --> 00:42:26,314 but they only get 15 kilogram instead. 697 00:42:26,308 --> 00:42:30,538 That is seem to be decline around 30%. 698 00:42:38,841 --> 00:42:40,641 Another iconic creature of the region, 699 00:42:40,644 --> 00:42:44,554 the python, is today threatened with extinction, 700 00:42:44,548 --> 00:42:46,088 which could have serious consequences 701 00:42:46,093 --> 00:42:48,503 for the local human population. 702 00:43:00,802 --> 00:43:03,032 Python very important 703 00:43:03,031 --> 00:43:07,361 in sustaining a quota in the food chain, 704 00:43:07,361 --> 00:43:10,801 because python control rodent. 705 00:43:10,796 --> 00:43:13,736 Now because the python hunted out 706 00:43:13,739 --> 00:43:15,489 and very rare now, 707 00:43:15,489 --> 00:43:19,449 and why python is very rare, 708 00:43:19,446 --> 00:43:21,796 rat a lot now increasing. 709 00:43:21,803 --> 00:43:24,143 And when the rat increasing 710 00:43:24,142 --> 00:43:27,622 they may eat peoples crop that 711 00:43:27,619 --> 00:43:31,489 the use of rice production every year. 712 00:43:50,594 --> 00:43:52,054 The uncontrollable proliferation 713 00:43:52,054 --> 00:43:53,764 of rats and other pests, 714 00:43:53,761 --> 00:43:56,181 could turn out to be a very serious consequence 715 00:43:56,181 --> 00:43:59,921 of snakes disappearing from Tonle Sap. 716 00:44:05,408 --> 00:44:06,758 At the height of the dry season, 717 00:44:06,764 --> 00:44:11,304 Prek Toal village is unrecognizable. 718 00:44:12,192 --> 00:44:13,792 Resting on the muddy banks of the lake, 719 00:44:13,791 --> 00:44:15,631 the floating houses look strange 720 00:44:15,626 --> 00:44:19,336 in their immobile sate. 721 00:44:20,137 --> 00:44:22,207 In the rare canals that still remain, 722 00:44:22,206 --> 00:44:24,006 the water can reach temperatures 723 00:44:24,010 --> 00:44:27,670 of 30 degrees Celsius. 724 00:44:27,668 --> 00:44:29,888 For Kuy Ann, it's time to move his crocodiles 725 00:44:29,886 --> 00:44:31,906 onto the land. 726 00:44:33,437 --> 00:44:35,387 Transferring the creatures to their new habitat 727 00:44:35,389 --> 00:44:38,979 requires a great deal of care. 728 00:44:38,984 --> 00:44:41,144 It's a delicate operation, 729 00:44:41,138 --> 00:44:44,678 the crocodiles mustn't be hurt, 730 00:44:44,679 --> 00:44:47,089 and neither of course must their owner. 731 00:45:11,792 --> 00:45:13,112 The fisherman knows that the crocodiles 732 00:45:13,114 --> 00:45:16,984 will take advantage of their stay on land to reproduce, 733 00:45:16,976 --> 00:45:19,926 helping his lucrative farm to prosper. 734 00:45:26,276 --> 00:45:28,066 With the water all now gone, 735 00:45:28,068 --> 00:45:31,688 the flooded forest is completely changed. 736 00:45:35,951 --> 00:45:37,701 It's the season where the land animals, 737 00:45:37,698 --> 00:45:40,658 swamp deer, makoks, and giant bats, 738 00:45:40,663 --> 00:45:45,383 retake possession of the forest. 739 00:45:48,502 --> 00:45:50,992 Near the villages, the now accessible forest 740 00:45:50,989 --> 00:45:55,989 becomes a valuable resource for the human population. 741 00:45:57,217 --> 00:45:59,007 During the dry season, it's exploited 742 00:45:59,010 --> 00:46:03,610 in an intensive manor. 743 00:46:05,408 --> 00:46:07,538 The villagers go there to gather indispensable wood 744 00:46:07,541 --> 00:46:11,421 for cooking, chop trunks to use as stilts for new houses, 745 00:46:11,424 --> 00:46:16,424 and collect the wherewithal for repairing their boats. 746 00:46:18,453 --> 00:46:20,793 During this season, a large number of fishing birds 747 00:46:20,787 --> 00:46:23,307 concentrate in the last stretches of forest 748 00:46:23,306 --> 00:46:26,576 that are still flooded. 749 00:46:26,579 --> 00:46:29,009 The heat causes short-lived showers, 750 00:46:29,012 --> 00:46:30,402 which attract fish to the surface 751 00:46:30,398 --> 00:46:33,748 in search of insects. 752 00:46:33,746 --> 00:46:35,876 They're easy prey for the pelicans and egrets, 753 00:46:35,880 --> 00:46:40,240 the only species of bird that still haven't migrated. 754 00:46:54,247 --> 00:46:57,457 Simon Mahood is back at his favorite spot, 755 00:46:57,457 --> 00:47:01,157 the bird reserve at Prek Toal. 756 00:47:02,129 --> 00:47:04,789 He's come to take over for his colleague, Sun Wisal, 757 00:47:04,794 --> 00:47:06,194 and draw up a provisional report 758 00:47:06,192 --> 00:47:08,132 on their actions here. 759 00:47:12,528 --> 00:47:13,688 The flood was slow 760 00:47:13,690 --> 00:47:15,780 and all the trees are visible 761 00:47:15,779 --> 00:47:18,949 above the surface of the water now. 762 00:47:18,948 --> 00:47:20,798 It's completely different from when we were here 763 00:47:20,803 --> 00:47:24,673 at the height of the flood season in November. 764 00:47:29,135 --> 00:47:33,055 Huge numbers of birds come to the dry season streams 765 00:47:33,056 --> 00:47:35,686 in Prek Toal at the end of the breeding season. 766 00:47:35,689 --> 00:47:37,219 This is the only place where the water remains, 767 00:47:37,215 --> 00:47:40,755 and so the fish are concentrated here. 768 00:47:40,756 --> 00:47:42,066 The water is very shallow, 769 00:47:42,067 --> 00:47:44,937 and so it's easy to catch fish. 770 00:47:44,937 --> 00:47:47,987 Big numbers of oriental daughters and cormorants 771 00:47:47,986 --> 00:47:50,476 take advantage of these fish, 772 00:47:50,482 --> 00:47:55,482 and they feed up before flying off across Asia. 773 00:48:15,546 --> 00:48:18,316 There's a huge pelican in front of us, 774 00:48:18,319 --> 00:48:21,609 but it wouldn't have been very flight. 775 00:48:23,067 --> 00:48:24,227 The birds have been hunted 776 00:48:24,229 --> 00:48:26,749 for hundreds of years by people, 777 00:48:26,747 --> 00:48:29,817 and so they're afraid of people and of big boats. 778 00:48:38,405 --> 00:48:40,665 It's incredible that one lake 779 00:48:40,666 --> 00:48:43,076 has got such a range between high floods 780 00:48:43,075 --> 00:48:44,775 and low floods season, 781 00:48:44,782 --> 00:48:47,572 and it's this that allows so many different bird species 782 00:48:47,567 --> 00:48:49,717 to breed here. 783 00:48:49,720 --> 00:48:52,020 In this way the Tonle Sap is unique in the world, 784 00:48:52,022 --> 00:48:55,252 and very special in my heart, 785 00:48:55,246 --> 00:48:57,436 because there's no where on Earth like this 786 00:48:57,443 --> 00:49:01,193 and no more special place that we could have protected 787 00:49:01,185 --> 00:49:03,475 such huge numbers of birds, 788 00:49:03,478 --> 00:49:06,288 to the benefit of everybody in the region. 789 00:49:13,537 --> 00:49:14,387 For how much longer 790 00:49:14,391 --> 00:49:18,261 can Tonle Sap go on playing its protective role? 791 00:49:18,261 --> 00:49:21,271 Eric Baran knows that major changes are underway, 792 00:49:21,270 --> 00:49:25,540 far from the lake in the Northern stretches of the Mekong. 793 00:49:25,537 --> 00:49:28,137 The scientist has a lot to be concerned about. 794 00:49:29,829 --> 00:49:31,539 As Tonle Sap is inextricably linked 795 00:49:31,542 --> 00:49:33,042 to the rest of the Mekong, 796 00:49:33,044 --> 00:49:37,094 it's totally dependent on what happens up stream. 797 00:49:38,144 --> 00:49:40,304 And the major threat from up stream comes from the dams 798 00:49:40,299 --> 00:49:43,219 because these are being developed at a frantic pace. 799 00:49:43,221 --> 00:49:45,251 In 2000 there was 16 dams, 800 00:49:45,247 --> 00:49:49,187 by 2030 there will be somewhere between 77 and 88, 801 00:49:49,194 --> 00:49:51,394 that breaks the whole system into segments, 802 00:49:51,390 --> 00:49:53,100 it holds back the flow of sediment, 803 00:49:53,097 --> 00:49:56,267 and there'll be a big reduction in fertility. 804 00:49:56,265 --> 00:49:59,025 The people don't have enough time to adapt to that, 805 00:49:59,028 --> 00:50:00,728 they adapt to the seasonal changes 806 00:50:00,733 --> 00:50:02,913 and they've adapted over the course of history, 807 00:50:02,910 --> 00:50:05,410 but this is happening too fast. 808 00:50:05,405 --> 00:50:07,335 The children wont have the time to go to school for years 809 00:50:07,336 --> 00:50:10,496 to learn new ways of earning a living. 810 00:50:10,504 --> 00:50:11,874 The impact of this rapid development 811 00:50:11,869 --> 00:50:16,869 will be all kinds of nutritional and social problems. 812 00:50:18,547 --> 00:50:20,537 It's not the dams themselves that are the problem, 813 00:50:20,541 --> 00:50:23,041 the system is evolving, people need electricity 814 00:50:23,036 --> 00:50:26,266 but it's all going too fast. 815 00:50:37,004 --> 00:50:39,124 For the moment, despite this imminent threat 816 00:50:39,116 --> 00:50:41,486 to the people and the biodiversity, 817 00:50:41,494 --> 00:50:44,144 millions of Cambodians continue to live in harmony 818 00:50:44,139 --> 00:50:45,939 with their great lake. 819 00:50:53,547 --> 00:50:54,967 The inhabitants of Tonle Sap 820 00:50:54,965 --> 00:50:56,775 can not imagine that one day things 821 00:50:56,778 --> 00:50:59,408 may no longer be like this, 822 00:50:59,413 --> 00:51:01,203 and that the lake will no longer provide them 823 00:51:01,204 --> 00:51:03,284 with all its riches. 824 00:51:14,280 --> 00:51:16,680 In the minds of the Tonle Sap fishermen, 825 00:51:16,680 --> 00:51:19,510 the return of the waters is never taken for granted, 826 00:51:19,508 --> 00:51:22,158 it's a gift of heaven. 827 00:51:22,163 --> 00:51:24,023 They trust the lake, and have faith 828 00:51:24,018 --> 00:51:26,068 that the ancient divinities which inhabit it, 829 00:51:26,066 --> 00:51:30,376 will bring the lifesaving monsoon. 830 00:51:30,963 --> 00:51:35,963 So far, the Mekong's flood has always kept its promise. 831 00:51:36,348 --> 00:51:39,398 This year yet again, the water flowed back up to the lake, 832 00:51:39,398 --> 00:51:41,918 depositing its rich mud and bringing with it 833 00:51:41,916 --> 00:51:44,676 countless fish. 834 00:51:44,678 --> 00:51:47,708 Once again the Mekong flooded the Khemara land, 835 00:51:47,714 --> 00:51:50,844 fertilizing the forests and fields, 836 00:51:50,840 --> 00:51:52,990 the people sewed and harvested, 837 00:51:52,993 --> 00:51:55,423 the fish and the birds multiplied, 838 00:51:55,424 --> 00:51:58,544 the plants and the trees thrived, 839 00:51:58,540 --> 00:52:00,310 but all of this happened only because 840 00:52:00,310 --> 00:52:03,090 Cambodia's great lake accomplished yet another 841 00:52:03,094 --> 00:52:05,864 entire life cycle. 842 00:52:05,857 --> 00:52:09,207 Once again, Tonle Sap, the bounteous lake, 843 00:52:09,206 --> 00:52:12,686 gave far more than was ever asked of it. 64938

Can't find what you're looking for?
Get subtitles in any language from opensubtitles.com, and translate them here.