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Lakes are living creatures.
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These precious reserves
of water live and die
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according to distinct natural cycles.
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Their peaceful waters seem dormant,
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yet them teem with mysterious life.
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Lakes only reveal themselves
to the men and women
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who take time to patiently
linger beside their shores.
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Together, we are going to
discover their secrets.
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The rhythm of an entire country, Cambodia,
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follows the cycle of this lake.
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At the heart of the Khemarak Kingdom,
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this huge and bounteous lake forms
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the greatest reserve of fresh water
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in Southeast Asia.
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It's name, Tonle Sap.
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The name means fresh water river,
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in reference to the Mekong,
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the river that provides
most of it's water.
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Tonle Sap is home to one of the
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greatest flooded forests on Earth,
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a fabulous natural sanctuary
where migrating birds
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from all over Asia stop to feed.
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Of all the lakes in Asia,
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Tonle Sap is probably the most bounteous.
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More than three million Cambodians depend
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on it's fish filled waters.
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But it's also a capricious lake,
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it's water disappearing
and then reappearing
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in rhythm with the seasons.
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00:01:55,165 --> 00:01:58,095
As vast as the sea during the wet season,
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the lake becomes a muddy
pond in the dry season.
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The fortunes of the planet's
last great food larder lake
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depend entirely on the
cyclical return of it's waters.
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More than a million people
live in the 90 villages
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that surround Tonle Sap.
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Their lives synchronized
to the lake's own rhythm.
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It shelters, transports,
and feeds all these people
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who have adapted to the water born life
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the Tonle Sap imposes on them.
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To the north of the lake,
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in the floating villiage of Prek Toal,
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there lives a fisherman who
has never left Tonle Sap.
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Kuy Ann lives in harmony with the lake,
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it's cycles governing every
moment of his existence.
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I love this lake,
46
00:03:04,949 --> 00:03:06,879
and especially the way we live here
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00:03:06,880 --> 00:03:09,520
in this floating village.
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00:03:09,516 --> 00:03:12,916
Living here is a question
of what you're used to.
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Everything's made easy for me.
50
00:03:15,414 --> 00:03:18,974
Bathing, getting around by boat,
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I don't feel comfortable on dry land.
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I can't ride a bike or a motor bike.
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00:03:26,239 --> 00:03:28,109
Kuy Ann
lives in a floating house,
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00:03:28,105 --> 00:03:29,685
tends a floating garden,
55
00:03:29,694 --> 00:03:33,584
and spends most of his life on the water.
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00:03:34,249 --> 00:03:36,139
The bamboo which supports
the floating garden,
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has to be replaced every year.
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It's a chore which Kuy Ann carries out
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like a veritable mer-man.
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I was born on the lake.
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We're fishermen here from father to son.
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I know Tonle Sap by heart,
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00:03:53,277 --> 00:03:55,537
and all the fish which live in it,
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00:03:55,538 --> 00:03:59,218
including those which hide in the mud.
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00:03:59,217 --> 00:04:02,607
I also know the wind,
the directions it blows,
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the mass movements of the fish.
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00:04:06,747 --> 00:04:09,107
Kuy Ann
understands that it is the people
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00:04:09,105 --> 00:04:11,435
who must adapt to the
movements of the lake
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and not the other way around.
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00:04:14,267 --> 00:04:16,757
For Tonle Sap is an
ever changing ecosystem,
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which leads a double life.
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00:04:19,184 --> 00:04:21,304
The lake empties and fills up again
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00:04:21,295 --> 00:04:23,805
according to a seasonal
cycle which it imposes
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00:04:23,813 --> 00:04:27,763
on all lakeside life.
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00:04:27,759 --> 00:04:28,909
When the waters have gone,
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00:04:28,911 --> 00:04:31,021
the lake becomes a veritable swamp.
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00:04:31,023 --> 00:04:35,383
When they return, the
lake spreads out again,
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00:04:35,375 --> 00:04:38,375
no respecter of boundaries.
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00:04:38,383 --> 00:04:40,153
The entire lakeside ecosystem
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00:04:40,152 --> 00:04:44,942
depends on this primordial aquatic cycle.
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00:04:44,940 --> 00:04:48,780
Every year between May and
June, the monsoon returns.
82
00:04:56,994 --> 00:05:00,174
Torrential rains batter
the whole of Southeast Asia
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00:05:00,172 --> 00:05:02,852
during this period.
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00:05:02,849 --> 00:05:06,159
The water brought by the
rain is swollen by melt water
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00:05:06,156 --> 00:05:09,106
from the Himalayan glaciers.
86
00:05:12,287 --> 00:05:15,017
The water gushes down the mountain slopes,
87
00:05:15,018 --> 00:05:17,668
and the muddy torrents
thus created converge
88
00:05:17,674 --> 00:05:21,274
on the immense drainage
basin of the Mekong.
89
00:05:21,267 --> 00:05:24,087
Then occurs a unique
hydro logical phenomenon,
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00:05:24,094 --> 00:05:26,254
the flow of water reverses.
91
00:05:26,248 --> 00:05:29,028
Whereas the water usually
flows from the Tonle Sap river
92
00:05:29,032 --> 00:05:30,502
towards the Mekong,
93
00:05:30,495 --> 00:05:33,065
all of the sudden this goes into reverse.
94
00:05:33,074 --> 00:05:36,024
The pressure of the Mekong
in spade becomes so strong,
95
00:05:36,019 --> 00:05:39,799
that it flows back up in
the direction of the lake.
96
00:05:39,804 --> 00:05:42,644
The direction of the Tonle Sap
river's current is reversed,
97
00:05:42,642 --> 00:05:47,402
and the Mekong's muddy
water fills the lake.
98
00:05:48,679 --> 00:05:50,179
This is when the living heart of Cambodia
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00:05:50,182 --> 00:05:52,382
beats its strongest.
100
00:05:52,380 --> 00:05:55,300
The lake is swollen by
the river, and overflows,
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00:05:55,303 --> 00:05:57,783
flooding the land all around.
102
00:05:57,777 --> 00:05:59,547
The surface area of the water increases
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00:05:59,548 --> 00:06:03,208
five fold at this time.
104
00:06:03,953 --> 00:06:05,433
Water rich with sediment, floods some
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00:06:05,434 --> 00:06:09,364
15,000 square kilometers.
106
00:06:25,326 --> 00:06:27,886
At this time, Tonle
Sap's ecosystem undergoes
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00:06:27,886 --> 00:06:31,296
a radical transformation.
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00:06:32,217 --> 00:06:34,367
The rice fields absorb the excess water,
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00:06:34,371 --> 00:06:37,841
and the vegetation, stimulated
by the alluvial deposits,
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00:06:37,838 --> 00:06:40,998
enjoys a new spurt of growth.
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00:06:40,995 --> 00:06:43,805
For several months the level
of the lake keeps rising,
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00:06:43,811 --> 00:06:45,911
from a low of barely 50 centimeters,
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00:06:45,912 --> 00:06:50,092
to over eight meters.
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00:06:50,093 --> 00:06:53,103
A new equilibrium settles
between the Earth and the water,
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00:06:53,101 --> 00:06:57,101
but it's a fragile one.
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00:06:58,946 --> 00:07:02,486
Tonle Sap is a lake about
which much is still unknown,
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00:07:02,486 --> 00:07:06,166
despite years of scientific study.
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00:07:08,373 --> 00:07:11,383
Sylyvann Borei, a scientist
from the World Fish Center,
119
00:07:11,381 --> 00:07:14,521
has traveled here from
Phnom Penh, the capital,
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00:07:14,515 --> 00:07:16,155
to carry out his seasonal report
121
00:07:16,160 --> 00:07:19,240
on the lakes aquatic resources.
122
00:07:21,396 --> 00:07:25,816
He depends on Kuy Ann to
help him collect his samples.
123
00:07:26,579 --> 00:07:27,919
It's impossible to identify the fish
124
00:07:27,924 --> 00:07:29,414
in their natural habitat,
125
00:07:29,407 --> 00:07:33,497
because the lake's water is far too muddy.
126
00:07:33,502 --> 00:07:36,082
The only possibility
is to capture the fish,
127
00:07:36,084 --> 00:07:40,074
and place them in a custom built aquarium.
128
00:07:57,224 --> 00:08:00,804
There has been little research
done on the fish of Tonle Sap
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00:08:00,797 --> 00:08:03,727
and yet they are vital
importance to Cambodia.
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00:08:03,729 --> 00:08:05,369
They provide a third of the protein
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00:08:05,372 --> 00:08:07,572
consumed by the population.
132
00:08:07,570 --> 00:08:09,330
But no one knows just exactly how long
133
00:08:09,329 --> 00:08:11,709
the lake will be able
to go on providing fish
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00:08:11,707 --> 00:08:15,207
in such quantity.
135
00:08:15,472 --> 00:08:17,182
For Tonle Sap and its fauna,
136
00:08:17,179 --> 00:08:21,699
the intensity of the monsoon
is a decisive factor.
137
00:08:21,701 --> 00:08:23,961
Was the flood extensive enough this year?
138
00:08:23,963 --> 00:08:27,623
Was it sufficiently high in nutrients?
139
00:08:27,621 --> 00:08:29,381
The good health of the fish's habitats
140
00:08:29,380 --> 00:08:32,070
and therefor the abundance
of future catches
141
00:08:32,069 --> 00:08:36,279
depend on this muddy water.
142
00:08:51,694 --> 00:08:53,034
Kuy Ann has spread his net
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00:08:53,027 --> 00:08:55,997
between the tops of submerged trees.
144
00:08:56,002 --> 00:08:57,542
He knows that these flooded trees,
145
00:08:57,539 --> 00:08:59,869
rich with insects and berries,
146
00:08:59,874 --> 00:09:03,744
shelter many species of fish.
147
00:09:14,145 --> 00:09:15,965
Straight away, Sylyvann
starts to recognize
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certain species he was
hoping to catch specimens of.
149
00:09:22,730 --> 00:09:24,910
See what we have here.
150
00:09:24,907 --> 00:09:28,517
That's a
, a Panga.
151
00:09:28,522 --> 00:09:30,722
And is that a Channa?
152
00:09:30,720 --> 00:09:35,080
Yes, it's
a Striped Snakehead.
153
00:09:35,082 --> 00:09:36,962
- Here in the Tonle Sap we have like
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00:09:36,958 --> 00:09:41,708
three main group of species.
155
00:09:41,707 --> 00:09:44,307
So the first one is the Traera,
156
00:09:44,307 --> 00:09:47,197
which belongs to the Blackfish Family.
157
00:09:47,197 --> 00:09:48,747
They have small scales,
158
00:09:48,754 --> 00:09:51,164
sometimes the scale is kinda absent.
159
00:09:51,155 --> 00:09:54,185
Adaptation is very strong,
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00:09:54,185 --> 00:09:59,185
they can live in the water
which is less oxygenated
161
00:10:01,480 --> 00:10:02,960
during dry season.
162
00:10:02,962 --> 00:10:05,372
Another fish is called Tripera,
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that belongs to the Whitefish family.
164
00:10:08,967 --> 00:10:13,557
You see the color is kind
of silvery and light,
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they need clean water.
166
00:10:15,153 --> 00:10:17,093
So in dry season they usually move
167
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up to 1,000 kilometer away
to find food from upstream.
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00:10:23,334 --> 00:10:26,184
I'm gonna catch another
fish, the.
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00:10:26,182 --> 00:10:28,972
That from the gray family.
170
00:10:28,965 --> 00:10:31,095
The adaptation is fairly strong,
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00:10:31,097 --> 00:10:34,737
that is why they do not
have to migrate too far
172
00:10:34,735 --> 00:10:36,915
away from the lake to feed and to breed
173
00:10:36,922 --> 00:10:38,852
during rainy season.
174
00:10:38,852 --> 00:10:42,132
So usually they just go
to the small tributary
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00:10:42,127 --> 00:10:46,767
along the lake.
176
00:10:52,755 --> 00:10:54,535
It seems that we do not have the catfish
177
00:10:54,535 --> 00:10:55,895
in the tank right now,
178
00:10:55,901 --> 00:11:00,061
but we're gonna go and
find out where it is.
179
00:11:05,553 --> 00:11:08,813
There's one
important species still missing,
180
00:11:08,807 --> 00:11:13,807
Clarias batrachus, the walking catfish.
181
00:11:14,327 --> 00:11:17,757
It's a remarkable creature whose
no show could be a bad sign
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for the lakeside ecosystem.
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00:11:24,000 --> 00:11:25,570
Although Sylyvann doesn't
feel very comfortable
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00:11:25,569 --> 00:11:26,989
on the water,
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00:11:26,987 --> 00:11:29,477
he still has no hesitation
about getting out there
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00:11:29,484 --> 00:11:33,284
in this strange canoe
come lifeboat contraption.
187
00:11:33,280 --> 00:11:35,180
Threading through the
branches of the trees
188
00:11:35,178 --> 00:11:38,978
in search of the fish he hopes to catch.
189
00:11:39,722 --> 00:11:42,802
The scientist's determination
finally pays off.
190
00:11:45,264 --> 00:11:48,504
- This is a walking catfish,
191
00:11:48,497 --> 00:11:53,497
it can definitely walk in
the mud during dry season.
192
00:11:55,974 --> 00:11:57,904
It's a fish
one must handle with caution,
193
00:11:57,904 --> 00:12:00,434
because of the stings in it's fins.
194
00:12:08,100 --> 00:12:09,630
Once the walking catfish,
195
00:12:09,626 --> 00:12:13,016
one of the lakes rare sedentary
species, has been caught,
196
00:12:13,017 --> 00:12:15,187
the collection is complete.
197
00:12:15,192 --> 00:12:16,512
The lake is a full compliment of
198
00:12:16,506 --> 00:12:20,096
black, white, and gray fish species.
199
00:12:21,195 --> 00:12:22,175
Thanks to the flood,
200
00:12:22,176 --> 00:12:25,076
this year again there'll be good fishing.
201
00:12:34,421 --> 00:12:35,901
During the eight high water months,
202
00:12:35,904 --> 00:12:40,904
the inhabitants of Tonle
Sap barely see dry land.
203
00:12:41,823 --> 00:12:43,373
The villages canals become clogged
204
00:12:43,368 --> 00:12:44,928
with the fishermen's boats,
205
00:12:44,927 --> 00:12:48,547
and fishing is once
again the main activity.
206
00:12:51,166 --> 00:12:53,486
All of local life takes
place on the water.
207
00:12:57,588 --> 00:12:59,338
They go to school by boat,
208
00:12:59,336 --> 00:13:02,126
move merchandise around by boat,
209
00:13:02,130 --> 00:13:04,370
there are even boats with
ingenious hanging gardens
210
00:13:04,370 --> 00:13:08,240
for growing vegetables.
211
00:13:15,602 --> 00:13:17,962
The majority of those who fish Tonle Sap
212
00:13:17,959 --> 00:13:20,359
live on the water.
213
00:13:20,358 --> 00:13:23,928
Some opt for a fixed home
with a house raised on stilts,
214
00:13:23,932 --> 00:13:27,852
which remains dry all year round.
215
00:13:33,708 --> 00:13:36,418
But in Prek Toal, most
of the families have gone
216
00:13:36,415 --> 00:13:38,415
for the originally Vietnamese option
217
00:13:38,420 --> 00:13:40,350
of a floating habitat,
218
00:13:40,351 --> 00:13:44,301
made of boats with rafts
moored between them.
219
00:13:44,297 --> 00:13:45,717
Just like the people who live in them,
220
00:13:45,717 --> 00:13:48,007
these boat houses adapt
to every little change
221
00:13:48,009 --> 00:13:50,859
that occurs on Tonle Sap.
222
00:13:50,857 --> 00:13:52,427
They follow its movements,
223
00:13:52,425 --> 00:13:54,265
traveling up and down in accordance
224
00:13:54,270 --> 00:13:58,090
with the lake's own rhythm.
225
00:13:58,557 --> 00:14:02,727
Kuy Ann has always lived
in just such a house.
226
00:14:04,595 --> 00:14:06,415
Like many other Tonle Sap fishermen,
227
00:14:06,418 --> 00:14:10,768
he raises Siamese Crocodiles
in floating cages.
228
00:14:10,770 --> 00:14:13,130
Previously present in
great numbers in the lake,
229
00:14:13,127 --> 00:14:18,127
these creatures are now rare in the wild.
230
00:14:18,203 --> 00:14:21,613
In a few months, once these
have grown big enough,
231
00:14:21,605 --> 00:14:25,475
the best specimens will be
sold in Vietnam or Thailand
232
00:14:25,478 --> 00:14:30,178
where their skin will be
used to make bags and shoes.
233
00:14:36,165 --> 00:14:40,355
Kuy Ann's favorite lodgers are
not his crocodiles however,
234
00:14:40,361 --> 00:14:44,481
but farmed fish of a quite unusual size.
235
00:14:44,478 --> 00:14:47,548
He wouldn't part with these for any price.
236
00:14:51,431 --> 00:14:53,811
They're
Panga, giant catfish,
237
00:14:53,811 --> 00:14:56,941
which can weigh as much as 50 to 70 kilos.
238
00:14:56,936 --> 00:15:00,306
These are about five years old.
239
00:15:03,805 --> 00:15:06,605
All around here, in fact
all around the lake,
240
00:15:06,609 --> 00:15:10,469
I'm the only person to have any.
241
00:15:10,469 --> 00:15:14,989
I'm very proud of them and
take good care of them.
242
00:15:17,189 --> 00:15:18,469
Once they're big enough,
243
00:15:18,470 --> 00:15:22,110
these fish can fetch a good price.
244
00:15:22,107 --> 00:15:25,787
But I'm growing them for
their symbolic power.
245
00:15:25,786 --> 00:15:29,216
I want to save them for
the younger generation.
246
00:15:29,221 --> 00:15:30,551
Tonle Sap is very important
247
00:15:30,554 --> 00:15:33,744
to everyone in Cambodia.
248
00:15:33,742 --> 00:15:38,742
It feeds the people, it's
fish provide us with protein,
249
00:15:40,857 --> 00:15:45,167
and we can cook all sorts of
different dishes with them.
250
00:15:50,220 --> 00:15:52,490
We sell our fish in the
neighboring countries
251
00:15:52,492 --> 00:15:56,732
as well as in Cambodia itself.
252
00:15:56,727 --> 00:15:58,407
The entire population of the country
253
00:15:58,412 --> 00:16:01,222
depends on the lake.
254
00:16:05,313 --> 00:16:09,103
The water goes
on rising until October.
255
00:16:09,099 --> 00:16:11,099
By the time it reaches the highest level,
256
00:16:11,104 --> 00:16:15,584
only the flooded forest
treetops can still be seen.
257
00:16:20,266 --> 00:16:23,676
The fish then disperse
throughout the now immense lake,
258
00:16:23,679 --> 00:16:25,159
and the nomad fisher families,
259
00:16:25,162 --> 00:16:28,642
have no other choice but to
accompany their migration.
260
00:16:32,905 --> 00:16:33,935
We have to find a spot
261
00:16:33,940 --> 00:16:35,400
where the water isn't so deep,
262
00:16:35,400 --> 00:16:37,110
and where there are more fish.
263
00:16:38,494 --> 00:16:40,704
Yes, there
are too few fish here now.
264
00:16:40,701 --> 00:16:42,581
We have to move.
265
00:16:44,541 --> 00:16:45,501
We'll get ready to move
266
00:16:45,501 --> 00:16:47,301
as quickly as we can.
267
00:16:49,096 --> 00:16:50,076
In search
of a more promising
268
00:16:50,076 --> 00:16:51,386
fishing spot,
269
00:16:51,389 --> 00:16:53,789
Folk See's family prepare to weigh anchor,
270
00:16:53,789 --> 00:16:57,559
taking with them everything they own.
271
00:16:57,564 --> 00:16:59,274
The fisherman and his son lash together
272
00:16:59,271 --> 00:17:04,191
the house, the fish tanks, and
the precious floating garden.
273
00:17:17,594 --> 00:17:19,974
Towed by a tiny powered canoe,
274
00:17:19,973 --> 00:17:23,173
the impressive convoy gets underway.
275
00:17:23,173 --> 00:17:24,933
It's the right time to be moving
276
00:17:24,933 --> 00:17:27,093
because the storms will soon come,
277
00:17:27,088 --> 00:17:28,348
and getting around the lake will become
278
00:17:28,346 --> 00:17:32,496
a dangerous undertaking.
279
00:17:39,793 --> 00:17:41,643
The fishing families move
their homes in this way
280
00:17:41,638 --> 00:17:43,448
up to 12 times a year,
281
00:17:43,451 --> 00:17:47,621
going wherever the
migrating fish lead them.
282
00:17:47,622 --> 00:17:51,542
This peripatetic existence is
the price these families pay
283
00:17:51,537 --> 00:17:53,627
in order to live in constant harmony
284
00:17:53,627 --> 00:17:56,047
with the resources of the lake.
285
00:18:00,930 --> 00:18:04,040
On an assignment for the
World Conservation Society,
286
00:18:04,040 --> 00:18:06,890
biologist Simon Mahood,
sets out from Kampong Phluk
287
00:18:06,890 --> 00:18:08,490
for the Flooded Forest,
288
00:18:08,490 --> 00:18:09,950
the most unusual ecosystem
289
00:18:09,951 --> 00:18:13,131
throughout the whole of Tonle Sap.
290
00:18:13,130 --> 00:18:16,320
Covered in water for
several months of the year,
291
00:18:16,319 --> 00:18:18,729
this remarkable forest is able to survive
292
00:18:18,729 --> 00:18:21,419
thanks to vegetation equally well adapted
293
00:18:21,417 --> 00:18:24,537
to life under water as in the air.
294
00:18:24,542 --> 00:18:27,432
It's an ecosystem that used
to cover 10,000 square meters,
295
00:18:27,432 --> 00:18:32,082
but now only a fraction
of that still remains.
296
00:18:32,082 --> 00:18:35,122
Making it all the more precious.
297
00:18:35,794 --> 00:18:38,954
- The Tonle Sap supports a
huge area of flooded forest,
298
00:18:38,950 --> 00:18:41,770
about 300 kilometers square.
299
00:18:41,767 --> 00:18:44,187
There are only four or
five species of trees
300
00:18:44,188 --> 00:18:46,748
able to survive these harsh conditions
301
00:18:46,748 --> 00:18:50,718
of the drought and the flood every year.
302
00:18:51,868 --> 00:18:53,148
At this period of the year,
303
00:18:53,147 --> 00:18:54,307
the most interesting specimens
304
00:18:54,310 --> 00:18:57,170
are to be found under the water.
305
00:18:57,234 --> 00:18:58,964
Have you got one?
306
00:18:58,960 --> 00:19:02,400
Yes, yes this is it.
307
00:19:02,395 --> 00:19:05,065
This is the only tree
that photosynthesizes
308
00:19:05,072 --> 00:19:08,002
under water in the Tonle Sap.
309
00:19:07,995 --> 00:19:12,225
Barringtonia acutangula
, this is incredible.
310
00:19:12,231 --> 00:19:14,041
This tree doesn't loose it's leaves,
311
00:19:14,035 --> 00:19:16,045
even when it is inundated by water
312
00:19:16,051 --> 00:19:17,881
for five whole months.
313
00:19:17,876 --> 00:19:19,556
The fish swim amongst it's branches,
314
00:19:19,561 --> 00:19:22,611
and they take food off the leaves.
315
00:19:22,612 --> 00:19:26,432
The tree also produces flowers
and fruits under water,
316
00:19:26,430 --> 00:19:29,750
and so the flowers are pollinated by fish,
317
00:19:29,746 --> 00:19:32,746
and the seeds are dispersed by fish also.
318
00:19:32,754 --> 00:19:35,214
It's amazing.
319
00:19:42,344 --> 00:19:46,524
The Barringtonia is incredibly
important for local people.
320
00:19:46,524 --> 00:19:48,574
It has shiny, waxy leaves,
321
00:19:48,572 --> 00:19:51,952
local people pick them and
put them in salads and soups.
322
00:19:51,953 --> 00:19:54,473
The roots of the tree have
also traditionally been used
323
00:19:54,471 --> 00:19:59,351
to treat Malaria and other diseases.
324
00:20:09,477 --> 00:20:11,067
Most of the trees around us,
325
00:20:11,066 --> 00:20:13,036
and indeed most of the
trees in the Tonle Sap,
326
00:20:13,038 --> 00:20:16,228
are the Barringtonia trees.
327
00:20:16,228 --> 00:20:18,008
But this tree close to us here
328
00:20:18,009 --> 00:20:23,009
this is the.
329
00:20:23,577 --> 00:20:28,147
This is an incredibly important
tree for the water birds.
330
00:20:28,152 --> 00:20:30,022
This tree grows very tall,
331
00:20:30,019 --> 00:20:32,419
it makes a safe place to rear their young
332
00:20:32,418 --> 00:20:34,528
and it's the reason why there are so many
333
00:20:34,530 --> 00:20:39,110
storks, pelicans, and
otters in the Tonle Sap.
334
00:20:41,015 --> 00:20:43,275
This nurturing
forest, which is as much
335
00:20:43,281 --> 00:20:45,561
a nursery for fish as it is for birds,
336
00:20:45,560 --> 00:20:49,820
is an incredible boon for
lakeside biodiversity.
337
00:20:51,349 --> 00:20:56,339
Wet forests like this are
very rare in Asia today.
338
00:20:57,570 --> 00:21:00,740
So important and unique is this
fresh water mangrove swamp,
339
00:21:00,737 --> 00:21:05,737
that UNESCO classified it as
a biosphere reserve in 1997.
340
00:21:14,112 --> 00:21:16,632
The birds know that during
the high water period,
341
00:21:16,628 --> 00:21:19,978
the treetops provide a safe haven.
342
00:21:21,386 --> 00:21:23,796
During this season,
ornithologist Sun Wisal,
343
00:21:23,795 --> 00:21:27,865
visits his feathered
proteges almost every day.
344
00:21:28,916 --> 00:21:30,846
We'll try over there.
345
00:21:30,846 --> 00:21:32,866
Over there.
346
00:21:37,842 --> 00:21:40,272
The Prek Toal
reserve is a bird sanctuary
347
00:21:40,273 --> 00:21:42,003
born of a collaboration between
348
00:21:42,001 --> 00:21:44,001
French Association Osmose,
349
00:21:43,996 --> 00:21:46,946
and the Wildlife Conservation Society.
350
00:21:48,722 --> 00:21:50,022
Hello.
351
00:21:52,465 --> 00:21:53,225
The park rangers
352
00:21:53,234 --> 00:21:56,874
are almost all former poachers.
353
00:21:58,704 --> 00:22:00,824
Perched high in the Barringtonia treetops
354
00:22:00,817 --> 00:22:02,767
like the birds they observe,
355
00:22:02,768 --> 00:22:05,348
Sun Wisal's team keep 30 or so platforms
356
00:22:05,349 --> 00:22:07,349
permanently manned.
357
00:22:07,352 --> 00:22:10,772
Okay,
let's look at the data.
358
00:22:10,765 --> 00:22:13,865
A zero means a youngster
that survived to adulthood,
359
00:22:13,869 --> 00:22:15,229
is that right?
360
00:22:15,234 --> 00:22:17,104
Yes.
361
00:22:17,100 --> 00:22:21,610
So in all
that makes 4,012 birds,
362
00:22:21,611 --> 00:22:24,401
and 400 nests.
363
00:22:26,752 --> 00:22:28,582
The constant
surveillance of the nests
364
00:22:28,575 --> 00:22:32,745
has considerably reduced
the poaching of the eggs.
365
00:22:41,887 --> 00:22:43,407
In order to get a closer look,
366
00:22:43,411 --> 00:22:47,801
Sun Wisal has had special
observation platforms made.
367
00:22:47,796 --> 00:22:49,876
The raft has to be maneuvered by oar,
368
00:22:49,876 --> 00:22:52,916
and positioned with extreme care.
369
00:22:52,915 --> 00:22:54,275
And then there might be a long wait
370
00:22:54,280 --> 00:22:56,370
of several hours before the birds
371
00:22:56,372 --> 00:22:59,592
dare to return to their nests.
372
00:23:02,727 --> 00:23:05,347
It's Tonle
Sap's hydro logical cycle,
373
00:23:05,351 --> 00:23:10,351
which gives the whole region
such a rich biodiversity.
374
00:23:12,198 --> 00:23:16,828
The fish get all the food
they need in the lake.
375
00:23:18,907 --> 00:23:21,217
And it's because of the
fish that the birds nest
376
00:23:21,222 --> 00:23:23,362
and lay their eggs here,
377
00:23:23,358 --> 00:23:25,058
because of the abundance of fish.
378
00:23:25,062 --> 00:23:27,442
The lake attracts certain species of birds
379
00:23:27,440 --> 00:23:31,690
that are going extinct
all over Southeast Asia.
380
00:23:31,685 --> 00:23:33,565
They spend six months here,
381
00:23:33,574 --> 00:23:37,214
time enough for them to reproduce.
382
00:23:39,705 --> 00:23:42,895
That's the reserve of the
Black Bellied Darters,
383
00:23:42,895 --> 00:23:45,265
we also call them Snake Birds.
384
00:23:45,270 --> 00:23:47,580
They are a species
threatened with extinction
385
00:23:47,583 --> 00:23:49,793
around the world.
386
00:23:53,512 --> 00:23:57,642
In 2002, there were only 250 couples left.
387
00:23:57,641 --> 00:23:59,331
But today in 2014,
388
00:23:59,326 --> 00:24:02,126
their population has
increased to 7,000 couples,
389
00:24:02,132 --> 00:24:04,152
and the number is still growing.
390
00:24:08,531 --> 00:24:12,241
The reserve is unique in Southeast Asia.
391
00:24:15,655 --> 00:24:16,935
There are so many of them that they
392
00:24:16,936 --> 00:24:20,316
completely cover the trees, it's amazing.
393
00:24:22,907 --> 00:24:24,717
But this constant
surveillance of the birds
394
00:24:24,721 --> 00:24:26,321
is not enough.
395
00:24:26,321 --> 00:24:28,661
Some effort must be made
to involve the local people
396
00:24:28,656 --> 00:24:30,736
in their protection.
397
00:24:30,736 --> 00:24:32,216
Sun Wisal knows that school children
398
00:24:32,219 --> 00:24:33,619
from the surrounding villages,
399
00:24:33,617 --> 00:24:37,387
will make excellent
spokespersons for his cause.
400
00:24:37,391 --> 00:24:41,501
What does
the red poster show?
401
00:24:43,938 --> 00:24:45,548
The birds of Tonle Sap
402
00:24:45,551 --> 00:24:47,331
that are under threat.
403
00:24:48,207 --> 00:24:51,057
Who can show me the Egret?
404
00:24:51,056 --> 00:24:53,226
Have you ever seen one?
405
00:24:53,231 --> 00:24:54,961
Or eaten one?
406
00:24:54,958 --> 00:24:57,518
No.
407
00:24:59,268 --> 00:25:00,528
By initiating
the lakes children
408
00:25:00,526 --> 00:25:02,506
into the practice of bird watching,
409
00:25:02,510 --> 00:25:05,090
Sun Wisal hopes to make them
understand the importance
410
00:25:05,092 --> 00:25:09,582
of preserving Tonle Sap's rare species.
411
00:25:10,436 --> 00:25:12,826
Darters, Storks, Ibis's, and Herons
412
00:25:12,834 --> 00:25:15,074
will soon take to the skies once again
413
00:25:15,074 --> 00:25:18,024
on their migratory journey.
414
00:25:18,017 --> 00:25:22,697
They wont return to Prek
Toal for several months.
415
00:25:23,457 --> 00:25:25,427
Every year dozens of bird species,
416
00:25:25,431 --> 00:25:28,601
including some that
are now extremely rare,
417
00:25:28,598 --> 00:25:32,608
find a precious refuge here.
418
00:25:52,148 --> 00:25:54,398
At the end of October when the water level
419
00:25:54,399 --> 00:25:55,519
is at its highest,
420
00:25:55,519 --> 00:25:58,939
the lake is covered with water Hyacinths.
421
00:26:00,416 --> 00:26:03,036
This invasive plant,
originally from Amazonia,
422
00:26:03,039 --> 00:26:06,279
chokes Tonle Sap.
423
00:26:06,282 --> 00:26:08,862
It makes boating and fishing difficult,
424
00:26:08,862 --> 00:26:13,652
and uses up a lot of the
lake's precious oxygen.
425
00:26:15,432 --> 00:26:17,522
The women of Prek Toal form small teams
426
00:26:17,523 --> 00:26:19,393
which do their best to free the lake
427
00:26:19,389 --> 00:26:22,759
from the plant's strangle hold.
428
00:26:31,152 --> 00:26:34,052
They scythe the Hyacinths by the armful.
429
00:26:34,053 --> 00:26:37,643
Their roots are used as compost,
430
00:26:37,638 --> 00:26:39,238
the flowers are eaten,
431
00:26:39,239 --> 00:26:44,219
and the stems are
plaited to make hammocks.
432
00:26:44,218 --> 00:26:45,568
This way the women of Prek Toal
433
00:26:45,573 --> 00:26:47,813
have turned this yearly scourge
434
00:26:47,813 --> 00:26:51,033
into a useful resource.
435
00:26:54,554 --> 00:26:56,614
When the water Hyacinths
are proliferating,
436
00:26:56,611 --> 00:26:59,331
and the snakes are
swimming at the surface,
437
00:26:59,334 --> 00:27:01,904
the water has reached its peak.
438
00:27:01,904 --> 00:27:06,904
For Kuy Ann, it's time to
start a new type of fishing.
439
00:27:07,930 --> 00:27:10,640
This
one's been dead a while.
440
00:27:10,640 --> 00:27:12,370
The Hyacinth
groves are the preferred
441
00:27:12,367 --> 00:27:14,127
habitat of the water snakes
442
00:27:14,127 --> 00:27:17,767
and the small fish on which they feed.
443
00:27:17,765 --> 00:27:20,565
These reptiles, most of
which are not poisonous,
444
00:27:20,570 --> 00:27:22,190
have no chance of escaping the nets
445
00:27:22,190 --> 00:27:25,650
placed by Kuy Ann during the night.
446
00:27:25,647 --> 00:27:28,357
In only a few hours, he
manages to catch dozens
447
00:27:28,356 --> 00:27:31,016
and he prefers them still alive.
448
00:27:32,023 --> 00:27:32,943
Throw it in the tank,
449
00:27:32,941 --> 00:27:35,041
that one's still alive.
450
00:27:39,000 --> 00:27:40,010
The thousands of snakes
451
00:27:40,013 --> 00:27:42,043
caught daily in the Tonle Sap,
452
00:27:42,040 --> 00:27:44,730
are not destined for the
fishermen's dining tables,
453
00:27:44,727 --> 00:27:48,507
but for feeding their precious crocodiles.
454
00:27:49,922 --> 00:27:52,052
During this season, snake replaces fish
455
00:27:52,054 --> 00:27:55,294
on the crocodile's menu.
456
00:27:55,287 --> 00:27:57,417
Every year Tonle Sap's farmed crocodiles
457
00:27:57,420 --> 00:28:01,140
consume millions of these snakes.
458
00:28:01,143 --> 00:28:03,623
It's the most extensive
concerted snake hunt
459
00:28:03,616 --> 00:28:06,376
anywhere in the world.
460
00:28:17,065 --> 00:28:21,105
In November, the water
level starts to drop.
461
00:28:21,108 --> 00:28:23,568
The phenomenon which began five months ago
462
00:28:23,572 --> 00:28:26,572
now reverses and the
flow of the water changes
463
00:28:26,570 --> 00:28:27,930
for the second time.
464
00:28:31,008 --> 00:28:32,938
Nature and people must once again
465
00:28:32,939 --> 00:28:36,399
adapt to the changes
forced on them by the lake.
466
00:28:40,617 --> 00:28:43,097
The Mekong's flow is
considerably diminished,
467
00:28:43,103 --> 00:28:45,893
and the Tonle Sap river
can finally resume its role
468
00:28:45,887 --> 00:28:49,687
as an outlet.
469
00:28:49,685 --> 00:28:53,075
The water flows once again
from the lake to the river,
470
00:28:53,076 --> 00:28:57,076
and Tonle Sap begins to empty out.
471
00:28:57,075 --> 00:28:59,805
The beating heart of Cambodia contracts,
472
00:28:59,806 --> 00:29:03,446
as its vital precious liquid pours away.
473
00:29:03,454 --> 00:29:07,264
It's the beginning of a new
period in the life of the lake,
474
00:29:07,260 --> 00:29:09,700
the low water season.
475
00:29:10,344 --> 00:29:12,344
The lake doesn't disappear entirely,
476
00:29:12,338 --> 00:29:13,958
but in a few months its surface area
477
00:29:13,959 --> 00:29:16,609
shrinks from 15,000 square kilometers,
478
00:29:16,606 --> 00:29:19,666
to only 3,000.
479
00:29:19,666 --> 00:29:22,826
It's a clear signal for the fish.
480
00:29:22,825 --> 00:29:24,805
Faithful to their lake, the black fish
481
00:29:24,807 --> 00:29:29,357
prepare to spend the dry
season hidden in the mud.
482
00:29:29,361 --> 00:29:32,061
The gray fish seek refuge
in the smaller tributaries,
483
00:29:32,060 --> 00:29:35,310
but the white fish, guided by instinct,
484
00:29:35,312 --> 00:29:38,482
know that it is time to abandon the lake,
485
00:29:38,479 --> 00:29:42,219
now become too small for them.
486
00:29:42,216 --> 00:29:44,306
They leave the lake in which they grew up,
487
00:29:44,307 --> 00:29:47,857
reach the Mekong, and then head up stream
488
00:29:47,856 --> 00:29:50,616
to the falls further North.
489
00:29:51,492 --> 00:29:54,372
But their voyage up stream
is not without its dangers.
490
00:29:54,372 --> 00:29:56,462
They have to get past the dice,
491
00:29:56,462 --> 00:30:01,242
the formidable floating
fisheries which bar their way.
492
00:30:01,240 --> 00:30:02,650
This is where the Cambodian fishermen
493
00:30:02,648 --> 00:30:04,788
are waiting for them.
494
00:30:04,792 --> 00:30:07,322
On the dice, the fishing
is quite miraculous,
495
00:30:07,320 --> 00:30:10,270
with an enormous daily catch.
496
00:30:35,114 --> 00:30:39,664
In all, over 15,000 tons of
fish are caught here every year,
497
00:30:39,658 --> 00:30:44,078
all thanks to Tonle Sap's
incredible fecundity.
498
00:30:50,858 --> 00:30:54,518
The most sought after species
are sold in the local markets,
499
00:30:54,516 --> 00:30:57,416
while the rest is made into prahok,
500
00:30:57,416 --> 00:31:00,836
a fish paste which can be kept for months.
501
00:31:05,161 --> 00:31:08,311
Only 20% of the fish
manage to escape the nets,
502
00:31:08,307 --> 00:31:11,087
but this appears to be enough
for the migrating species
503
00:31:11,091 --> 00:31:14,151
to reproduce.
504
00:31:14,145 --> 00:31:16,005
As perserverant as salmon,
505
00:31:16,012 --> 00:31:17,812
the escaped fish continue their journey
506
00:31:17,814 --> 00:31:19,874
for 20 days and 20 nights
507
00:31:19,873 --> 00:31:23,723
on towards the Laotian border.
508
00:31:24,384 --> 00:31:26,354
Before them looms the final obstacle,
509
00:31:26,347 --> 00:31:29,377
keeping them from their spawning beds,
510
00:31:29,376 --> 00:31:32,936
the rapids at Cyf Andong.
511
00:31:32,937 --> 00:31:33,947
Beyond these falls,
512
00:31:33,951 --> 00:31:37,081
and the tumultuous waters
of the Mekong's tributaries,
513
00:31:37,076 --> 00:31:41,726
Tonle Sap's white fish finally
reach their spawning beds.
514
00:31:47,135 --> 00:31:49,225
At the next monsoon, their tiny young
515
00:31:49,225 --> 00:31:51,685
will swim back down the Mekong,
516
00:31:51,688 --> 00:31:53,618
so that they too can grow to adulthood
517
00:31:53,618 --> 00:31:56,728
in the muddy water of the great lake.
518
00:32:02,088 --> 00:32:04,398
The Mekong's falls are spectacular,
519
00:32:04,402 --> 00:32:07,492
but very hard to get to.
520
00:32:07,494 --> 00:32:11,334
It's a spot that Thai
photgrapher, Suthep Kritsanavarin,
521
00:32:11,334 --> 00:32:14,354
has become particularly fond of.
522
00:32:14,780 --> 00:32:17,430
For the last 10 years, he's
been coming back every year
523
00:32:17,425 --> 00:32:21,405
to photograph the fishermen
of the Mekong rapids.
524
00:32:26,522 --> 00:32:27,782
Throughout the whole Mekong
525
00:32:27,781 --> 00:32:31,101
they have special places for fishing.
526
00:32:31,099 --> 00:32:33,009
One is in Tonle Sap in Cambodia,
527
00:32:33,007 --> 00:32:37,427
and the other one is
in Cyf Andong in Laos.
528
00:32:37,434 --> 00:32:40,184
And the people use many
special fishing techniques.
529
00:32:40,176 --> 00:32:42,046
Here we can see the rapids
530
00:32:42,052 --> 00:32:43,772
and the really strong waterfalls,
531
00:32:43,769 --> 00:32:47,399
where they're trying to
catch some of the fish.
532
00:32:53,736 --> 00:32:56,946
Here, Cyf Andong is in the middle,
533
00:32:56,945 --> 00:33:00,025
at least 200 species have
to pass along this route
534
00:33:00,028 --> 00:33:01,828
to the North.
535
00:33:09,404 --> 00:33:11,074
Because he's
willing to take the same risks
536
00:33:11,067 --> 00:33:12,907
as the acrobatic fishermen,
537
00:33:12,912 --> 00:33:14,612
Suthep has gained their trust
538
00:33:14,608 --> 00:33:19,118
and been able to take
his incredible photos.
539
00:33:22,767 --> 00:33:26,107
In 2011, the fishermen of Cyf Andong,
540
00:33:26,106 --> 00:33:28,106
finally managed to catch the mythical fish
541
00:33:28,111 --> 00:33:30,781
they've been after for years.
542
00:33:32,728 --> 00:33:34,448
The most
important picture for me,
543
00:33:34,446 --> 00:33:36,476
is the giant catfish that they caught
544
00:33:36,484 --> 00:33:38,164
in the Soham channel.
545
00:33:38,157 --> 00:33:39,907
So I was waiting for that shot
546
00:33:39,905 --> 00:33:42,215
for two or three years.
547
00:33:42,221 --> 00:33:44,151
When I saw it, I was really excited
548
00:33:44,150 --> 00:33:49,150
because it was there in
its natural environment.
549
00:33:50,208 --> 00:33:52,988
I know it's really important
because that is the one picture
550
00:33:52,992 --> 00:33:56,272
that can show many things,
551
00:33:56,266 --> 00:33:58,126
because there had been no evidence before
552
00:33:58,132 --> 00:34:02,402
that these fish travel a very
long way to Tonle Sap lake,
553
00:34:02,399 --> 00:34:04,589
and then thousands of kilometers past here
554
00:34:04,586 --> 00:34:07,296
to the North of Thailand to spawn.
555
00:34:10,174 --> 00:34:11,794
The giant
catfish is one of the last
556
00:34:11,785 --> 00:34:14,655
representatives of a species
that used to be found
557
00:34:14,664 --> 00:34:17,454
in Tonle Sap.
558
00:34:17,811 --> 00:34:19,541
Today only a few rare specimens,
559
00:34:19,539 --> 00:34:23,149
still lives in the rapids of Cyf Andong.
560
00:34:37,201 --> 00:34:39,791
In May, several months
after the second reversal
561
00:34:39,793 --> 00:34:40,943
of the water flow,
562
00:34:40,935 --> 00:34:45,575
Tonle Sap has reached its lowest level.
563
00:34:46,502 --> 00:34:48,572
Rice fields and roads reappear,
564
00:34:48,572 --> 00:34:51,362
where before there was only water,
565
00:34:51,355 --> 00:34:53,935
the mud which is
omnipresent in this season,
566
00:34:53,936 --> 00:34:56,006
is not considered a problem,
567
00:34:56,005 --> 00:35:00,135
but a great treasure
offered up by the lake.
568
00:35:00,138 --> 00:35:03,548
The sediment brought by the
flood is deposited everywhere.
569
00:35:03,551 --> 00:35:07,041
This mixture of earth and
water makes an ideal soil
570
00:35:07,037 --> 00:35:10,637
in which to grow rice.
571
00:35:13,372 --> 00:35:14,862
For the inhabitants of Tonle Sap,
572
00:35:14,855 --> 00:35:17,595
a new life now begins.
573
00:35:17,596 --> 00:35:19,526
Fishing becomes a secondary activity,
574
00:35:19,527 --> 00:35:22,807
carried out by children and old men.
575
00:35:26,192 --> 00:35:28,302
Yesterday's fishermen
have put away their boats
576
00:35:28,304 --> 00:35:32,734
and turned into farmers for a season.
577
00:35:32,731 --> 00:35:34,861
There's no time to lose,
578
00:35:34,864 --> 00:35:36,354
barely have the waters receded
579
00:35:36,346 --> 00:35:38,516
before they're working the soil,
580
00:35:38,523 --> 00:35:41,393
planting and then harvesting.
581
00:35:41,391 --> 00:35:42,831
The few months before the next flood
582
00:35:42,831 --> 00:35:47,221
are just enough to ensure
the yearly rice harvest.
583
00:35:49,369 --> 00:35:53,459
Kompong Phluk has emerged from the lake.
584
00:35:54,019 --> 00:35:55,569
The usually water bound lake village
585
00:35:55,566 --> 00:35:59,396
can now be walked through.
586
00:35:59,397 --> 00:36:01,197
On either side of the village,
587
00:36:01,200 --> 00:36:03,420
a narrow muddy channel is all that remains
588
00:36:03,417 --> 00:36:05,757
of the great lake.
589
00:36:07,151 --> 00:36:08,381
The elevated kamare houses
590
00:36:08,377 --> 00:36:10,647
are now only accessible by ladder.
591
00:36:14,025 --> 00:36:17,315
A few stubborn fishermen
still apply their trade,
592
00:36:17,320 --> 00:36:21,660
but all the others have already
opted for life on the land.
593
00:36:25,705 --> 00:36:27,755
Fishing biologists at
the World Fish Center
594
00:36:27,763 --> 00:36:31,133
Eric Baran has been
carefully observing Tonle Sap
595
00:36:31,133 --> 00:36:35,203
for almost 20 years.
596
00:36:35,196 --> 00:36:37,646
In between his research
missions on the Mekong,
597
00:36:37,650 --> 00:36:39,350
the scientist regularly returns
598
00:36:39,345 --> 00:36:41,595
to check the health of the lake.
599
00:36:44,380 --> 00:36:46,310
It's a real
pleasure for me to come back now,
600
00:36:46,310 --> 00:36:48,240
because when we were here in August,
601
00:36:48,241 --> 00:36:50,251
the water reached all
the way up to the houses,
602
00:36:50,246 --> 00:36:52,056
and now look at the difference.
603
00:36:52,059 --> 00:36:53,789
You can see all the fishing apparatus,
604
00:36:53,787 --> 00:36:56,167
the forest of wooden stilts.
605
00:36:56,166 --> 00:36:57,176
They're taking this opportunity
606
00:36:57,179 --> 00:36:59,269
to repair their fishing gear.
607
00:37:00,166 --> 00:37:01,176
During the dry season,
608
00:37:01,178 --> 00:37:02,928
the inhabitants of Kampong Phluk
609
00:37:02,928 --> 00:37:04,468
devote a lot of time to the maintenance
610
00:37:04,474 --> 00:37:08,034
of their fishing equipment.
611
00:37:08,025 --> 00:37:11,275
Life on land kicks off again
at the feet of the spider house
612
00:37:11,279 --> 00:37:14,489
and kids relearn how to ride their bikes.
613
00:37:14,489 --> 00:37:15,659
They play ball next to the prawns
614
00:37:15,663 --> 00:37:18,003
spread out to dry on the ground.
615
00:37:17,999 --> 00:37:20,299
On the very spot where
a few months earlier
616
00:37:20,301 --> 00:37:22,221
they were swimming.
617
00:37:30,755 --> 00:37:32,545
Everyone makes the most of Tonle Sap's
618
00:37:32,546 --> 00:37:34,336
low water season,
619
00:37:34,338 --> 00:37:36,088
of the time and space it gives them
620
00:37:36,087 --> 00:37:38,477
to carry out repairs
on their homes, boats,
621
00:37:38,476 --> 00:37:40,576
and fishing nets.
622
00:37:42,765 --> 00:37:43,945
There are
just over a million people
623
00:37:43,948 --> 00:37:47,298
who really do depend on
the water and the fishing.
624
00:37:47,297 --> 00:37:49,387
These people consume over 40 kilograms
625
00:37:49,387 --> 00:37:51,457
of fish each per year.
626
00:37:51,456 --> 00:37:55,066
That comes out at 100
grams per person per day.
627
00:37:56,501 --> 00:37:57,651
Which shows to what extent this lake
628
00:37:57,653 --> 00:38:00,953
really does nourish an entire population.
629
00:38:03,669 --> 00:38:05,119
From an ecological point of view,
630
00:38:05,119 --> 00:38:07,839
it really is an exceptional lake.
631
00:38:07,842 --> 00:38:09,532
The surface area changes five fold
632
00:38:09,527 --> 00:38:10,827
and at it's maximum,
633
00:38:10,828 --> 00:38:13,898
it is roughly the size or Corsica.
634
00:38:13,900 --> 00:38:16,320
Then when it shrinks to its minimum,
635
00:38:16,321 --> 00:38:18,331
it becomes extremely
hard for the fish species
636
00:38:18,326 --> 00:38:22,086
to survive because it's so shallow.
637
00:38:22,091 --> 00:38:24,321
It goes from a depth
of about eight meters,
638
00:38:24,321 --> 00:38:29,221
to just one meter, or even half a meter.
639
00:38:29,216 --> 00:38:32,046
The water gets very warm, and
there's very little oxygen,
640
00:38:32,045 --> 00:38:34,555
so there are few species that can survive.
641
00:38:54,899 --> 00:38:57,079
Besides
small fry and prawns,
642
00:38:57,075 --> 00:38:58,515
which remain abundant,
643
00:38:58,515 --> 00:39:00,135
the sedentary blackfish species
644
00:39:00,136 --> 00:39:03,226
are still present in the lake.
645
00:39:04,402 --> 00:39:07,032
To catch them, there's no need of a net,
646
00:39:07,026 --> 00:39:10,256
a simple creole suffices.
647
00:39:10,261 --> 00:39:15,261
In this season the flooded
forest is one big quagmire.
648
00:39:16,575 --> 00:39:20,065
To fish that don't migrate
bury themselves into the mud,
649
00:39:20,074 --> 00:39:21,814
where they're easy prey for as experienced
650
00:39:21,812 --> 00:39:24,062
of fishermen as Kuy Ann.
651
00:39:30,473 --> 00:39:34,183
I've caught a walking fish.
652
00:39:36,062 --> 00:39:39,702
It's a fish that survives in the mud.
653
00:39:39,698 --> 00:39:41,518
It's a really clever fish,
654
00:39:41,523 --> 00:39:44,903
because it can adapt to both seasons.
655
00:39:45,405 --> 00:39:48,555
It can get around and
move over land like that.
656
00:39:52,478 --> 00:39:54,008
The changes
that the lake undergoes,
657
00:39:54,013 --> 00:39:56,093
have led to the striped Shauna,
658
00:39:56,093 --> 00:39:58,793
evolving the ability to move about on land
659
00:39:58,790 --> 00:40:01,440
during the dry season.
660
00:40:02,747 --> 00:40:05,297
The amazing fish, which has both gills
661
00:40:05,297 --> 00:40:08,577
and a primitive lung, can breathe air
662
00:40:08,582 --> 00:40:13,532
and uses its fins to
walk out of the water.
663
00:40:14,129 --> 00:40:16,389
Half aquatic, half terrestrial,
664
00:40:16,389 --> 00:40:18,699
it really is a perfect
symbol for the inhabitants
665
00:40:18,704 --> 00:40:21,004
of Tonle Sap.
666
00:40:22,585 --> 00:40:25,665
By stubbornly continuing to
fish during the dry season,
667
00:40:25,669 --> 00:40:28,589
Kuy Ann is something of an exception.
668
00:40:28,591 --> 00:40:31,121
Most of the villagers devote
themselves during these months
669
00:40:31,118 --> 00:40:34,668
to their rice fields.
670
00:40:34,671 --> 00:40:35,731
It's also in the rice fields
671
00:40:35,727 --> 00:40:40,087
that most of Tonle Sap's
water snakes take refuge.
672
00:40:40,089 --> 00:40:43,099
This is where Neang
Thy comes to hunt them.
673
00:40:44,578 --> 00:40:47,018
Considered one of Cambodia's
top reptile expert,
674
00:40:47,021 --> 00:40:49,401
this scientist is here to study the effect
675
00:40:49,400 --> 00:40:51,610
of the intensive hunting
of the past few months
676
00:40:51,607 --> 00:40:54,217
has had on these creatures.
677
00:40:56,044 --> 00:40:58,954
- Oh this is a rainbow snake.
678
00:40:58,946 --> 00:41:03,206
This is a species that's
very common in Tonle Sap
679
00:41:03,212 --> 00:41:06,432
and around Cambodia.
680
00:41:19,766 --> 00:41:23,346
Tonle Sap is the place where you can find
681
00:41:23,349 --> 00:41:25,419
the most water snakes,
682
00:41:25,419 --> 00:41:29,619
but we don't know how many
there are in the water.
683
00:41:29,621 --> 00:41:34,421
Previous study recorded
that four to seven million
684
00:41:34,421 --> 00:41:39,181
water snakes have been hunted every year.
685
00:41:40,734 --> 00:41:44,334
People around Tonle Sap they waste snake
686
00:41:44,329 --> 00:41:47,869
to sell for the crocodile farm.
687
00:41:47,869 --> 00:41:50,589
And because the crocodile
farm is pleasing,
688
00:41:50,589 --> 00:41:55,589
and they take water snake
to feed the crocodile.
689
00:41:56,296 --> 00:42:01,296
And most water snakes also collected for
690
00:42:01,458 --> 00:42:04,578
local consumption, for skin,
691
00:42:04,583 --> 00:42:08,733
for thread to neighboring country.
692
00:42:08,732 --> 00:42:10,842
It's brought to China,
it's brought to Thai,
693
00:42:10,843 --> 00:42:13,633
it's brought to Vietnam.
694
00:42:14,928 --> 00:42:19,598
People reported that they used to buy
695
00:42:19,601 --> 00:42:22,871
50 kilogram from one place of water snake,
696
00:42:22,874 --> 00:42:26,314
but they only get 15 kilogram instead.
697
00:42:26,308 --> 00:42:30,538
That is seem to be decline around 30%.
698
00:42:38,841 --> 00:42:40,641
Another iconic
creature of the region,
699
00:42:40,644 --> 00:42:44,554
the python, is today
threatened with extinction,
700
00:42:44,548 --> 00:42:46,088
which could have serious consequences
701
00:42:46,093 --> 00:42:48,503
for the local human population.
702
00:43:00,802 --> 00:43:03,032
Python very important
703
00:43:03,031 --> 00:43:07,361
in sustaining a quota in the food chain,
704
00:43:07,361 --> 00:43:10,801
because python control rodent.
705
00:43:10,796 --> 00:43:13,736
Now because the python hunted out
706
00:43:13,739 --> 00:43:15,489
and very rare now,
707
00:43:15,489 --> 00:43:19,449
and why python is very rare,
708
00:43:19,446 --> 00:43:21,796
rat a lot now increasing.
709
00:43:21,803 --> 00:43:24,143
And when the rat increasing
710
00:43:24,142 --> 00:43:27,622
they may eat peoples crop that
711
00:43:27,619 --> 00:43:31,489
the use of rice production every year.
712
00:43:50,594 --> 00:43:52,054
The
uncontrollable proliferation
713
00:43:52,054 --> 00:43:53,764
of rats and other pests,
714
00:43:53,761 --> 00:43:56,181
could turn out to be a
very serious consequence
715
00:43:56,181 --> 00:43:59,921
of snakes disappearing from Tonle Sap.
716
00:44:05,408 --> 00:44:06,758
At the height of the dry season,
717
00:44:06,764 --> 00:44:11,304
Prek Toal village is unrecognizable.
718
00:44:12,192 --> 00:44:13,792
Resting on the muddy banks of the lake,
719
00:44:13,791 --> 00:44:15,631
the floating houses look strange
720
00:44:15,626 --> 00:44:19,336
in their immobile sate.
721
00:44:20,137 --> 00:44:22,207
In the rare canals that still remain,
722
00:44:22,206 --> 00:44:24,006
the water can reach temperatures
723
00:44:24,010 --> 00:44:27,670
of 30 degrees Celsius.
724
00:44:27,668 --> 00:44:29,888
For Kuy Ann, it's time
to move his crocodiles
725
00:44:29,886 --> 00:44:31,906
onto the land.
726
00:44:33,437 --> 00:44:35,387
Transferring the creatures
to their new habitat
727
00:44:35,389 --> 00:44:38,979
requires a great deal of care.
728
00:44:38,984 --> 00:44:41,144
It's a delicate operation,
729
00:44:41,138 --> 00:44:44,678
the crocodiles mustn't be hurt,
730
00:44:44,679 --> 00:44:47,089
and neither of course must their owner.
731
00:45:11,792 --> 00:45:13,112
The fisherman knows that the crocodiles
732
00:45:13,114 --> 00:45:16,984
will take advantage of their
stay on land to reproduce,
733
00:45:16,976 --> 00:45:19,926
helping his lucrative farm to prosper.
734
00:45:26,276 --> 00:45:28,066
With the water all now gone,
735
00:45:28,068 --> 00:45:31,688
the flooded forest is completely changed.
736
00:45:35,951 --> 00:45:37,701
It's the season where the land animals,
737
00:45:37,698 --> 00:45:40,658
swamp deer, makoks, and giant bats,
738
00:45:40,663 --> 00:45:45,383
retake possession of the forest.
739
00:45:48,502 --> 00:45:50,992
Near the villages, the
now accessible forest
740
00:45:50,989 --> 00:45:55,989
becomes a valuable resource
for the human population.
741
00:45:57,217 --> 00:45:59,007
During the dry season, it's exploited
742
00:45:59,010 --> 00:46:03,610
in an intensive manor.
743
00:46:05,408 --> 00:46:07,538
The villagers go there to
gather indispensable wood
744
00:46:07,541 --> 00:46:11,421
for cooking, chop trunks to
use as stilts for new houses,
745
00:46:11,424 --> 00:46:16,424
and collect the wherewithal
for repairing their boats.
746
00:46:18,453 --> 00:46:20,793
During this season, a large
number of fishing birds
747
00:46:20,787 --> 00:46:23,307
concentrate in the last
stretches of forest
748
00:46:23,306 --> 00:46:26,576
that are still flooded.
749
00:46:26,579 --> 00:46:29,009
The heat causes short-lived showers,
750
00:46:29,012 --> 00:46:30,402
which attract fish to the surface
751
00:46:30,398 --> 00:46:33,748
in search of insects.
752
00:46:33,746 --> 00:46:35,876
They're easy prey for
the pelicans and egrets,
753
00:46:35,880 --> 00:46:40,240
the only species of bird
that still haven't migrated.
754
00:46:54,247 --> 00:46:57,457
Simon Mahood is back at his favorite spot,
755
00:46:57,457 --> 00:47:01,157
the bird reserve at Prek Toal.
756
00:47:02,129 --> 00:47:04,789
He's come to take over for
his colleague, Sun Wisal,
757
00:47:04,794 --> 00:47:06,194
and draw up a provisional report
758
00:47:06,192 --> 00:47:08,132
on their actions here.
759
00:47:12,528 --> 00:47:13,688
The flood was slow
760
00:47:13,690 --> 00:47:15,780
and all the trees are visible
761
00:47:15,779 --> 00:47:18,949
above the surface of the water now.
762
00:47:18,948 --> 00:47:20,798
It's completely different
from when we were here
763
00:47:20,803 --> 00:47:24,673
at the height of the
flood season in November.
764
00:47:29,135 --> 00:47:33,055
Huge numbers of birds come
to the dry season streams
765
00:47:33,056 --> 00:47:35,686
in Prek Toal at the end
of the breeding season.
766
00:47:35,689 --> 00:47:37,219
This is the only place
where the water remains,
767
00:47:37,215 --> 00:47:40,755
and so the fish are concentrated here.
768
00:47:40,756 --> 00:47:42,066
The water is very shallow,
769
00:47:42,067 --> 00:47:44,937
and so it's easy to catch fish.
770
00:47:44,937 --> 00:47:47,987
Big numbers of oriental
daughters and cormorants
771
00:47:47,986 --> 00:47:50,476
take advantage of these fish,
772
00:47:50,482 --> 00:47:55,482
and they feed up before
flying off across Asia.
773
00:48:15,546 --> 00:48:18,316
There's a huge pelican in front of us,
774
00:48:18,319 --> 00:48:21,609
but it wouldn't have been very flight.
775
00:48:23,067 --> 00:48:24,227
The birds have been hunted
776
00:48:24,229 --> 00:48:26,749
for hundreds of years by people,
777
00:48:26,747 --> 00:48:29,817
and so they're afraid of
people and of big boats.
778
00:48:38,405 --> 00:48:40,665
It's incredible that one lake
779
00:48:40,666 --> 00:48:43,076
has got such a range between high floods
780
00:48:43,075 --> 00:48:44,775
and low floods season,
781
00:48:44,782 --> 00:48:47,572
and it's this that allows so
many different bird species
782
00:48:47,567 --> 00:48:49,717
to breed here.
783
00:48:49,720 --> 00:48:52,020
In this way the Tonle Sap
is unique in the world,
784
00:48:52,022 --> 00:48:55,252
and very special in my heart,
785
00:48:55,246 --> 00:48:57,436
because there's no
where on Earth like this
786
00:48:57,443 --> 00:49:01,193
and no more special place
that we could have protected
787
00:49:01,185 --> 00:49:03,475
such huge numbers of birds,
788
00:49:03,478 --> 00:49:06,288
to the benefit of everybody in the region.
789
00:49:13,537 --> 00:49:14,387
For how much longer
790
00:49:14,391 --> 00:49:18,261
can Tonle Sap go on playing
its protective role?
791
00:49:18,261 --> 00:49:21,271
Eric Baran knows that
major changes are underway,
792
00:49:21,270 --> 00:49:25,540
far from the lake in the
Northern stretches of the Mekong.
793
00:49:25,537 --> 00:49:28,137
The scientist has a lot
to be concerned about.
794
00:49:29,829 --> 00:49:31,539
As Tonle
Sap is inextricably linked
795
00:49:31,542 --> 00:49:33,042
to the rest of the Mekong,
796
00:49:33,044 --> 00:49:37,094
it's totally dependent on
what happens up stream.
797
00:49:38,144 --> 00:49:40,304
And the major threat from up
stream comes from the dams
798
00:49:40,299 --> 00:49:43,219
because these are being
developed at a frantic pace.
799
00:49:43,221 --> 00:49:45,251
In 2000 there was 16 dams,
800
00:49:45,247 --> 00:49:49,187
by 2030 there will be
somewhere between 77 and 88,
801
00:49:49,194 --> 00:49:51,394
that breaks the whole
system into segments,
802
00:49:51,390 --> 00:49:53,100
it holds back the flow of sediment,
803
00:49:53,097 --> 00:49:56,267
and there'll be a big
reduction in fertility.
804
00:49:56,265 --> 00:49:59,025
The people don't have enough
time to adapt to that,
805
00:49:59,028 --> 00:50:00,728
they adapt to the seasonal changes
806
00:50:00,733 --> 00:50:02,913
and they've adapted over
the course of history,
807
00:50:02,910 --> 00:50:05,410
but this is happening too fast.
808
00:50:05,405 --> 00:50:07,335
The children wont have the
time to go to school for years
809
00:50:07,336 --> 00:50:10,496
to learn new ways of earning a living.
810
00:50:10,504 --> 00:50:11,874
The impact of this rapid development
811
00:50:11,869 --> 00:50:16,869
will be all kinds of
nutritional and social problems.
812
00:50:18,547 --> 00:50:20,537
It's not the dams themselves
that are the problem,
813
00:50:20,541 --> 00:50:23,041
the system is evolving,
people need electricity
814
00:50:23,036 --> 00:50:26,266
but it's all going too fast.
815
00:50:37,004 --> 00:50:39,124
For the moment,
despite this imminent threat
816
00:50:39,116 --> 00:50:41,486
to the people and the biodiversity,
817
00:50:41,494 --> 00:50:44,144
millions of Cambodians
continue to live in harmony
818
00:50:44,139 --> 00:50:45,939
with their great lake.
819
00:50:53,547 --> 00:50:54,967
The inhabitants of Tonle Sap
820
00:50:54,965 --> 00:50:56,775
can not imagine that one day things
821
00:50:56,778 --> 00:50:59,408
may no longer be like this,
822
00:50:59,413 --> 00:51:01,203
and that the lake will
no longer provide them
823
00:51:01,204 --> 00:51:03,284
with all its riches.
824
00:51:14,280 --> 00:51:16,680
In the minds of the Tonle Sap fishermen,
825
00:51:16,680 --> 00:51:19,510
the return of the waters
is never taken for granted,
826
00:51:19,508 --> 00:51:22,158
it's a gift of heaven.
827
00:51:22,163 --> 00:51:24,023
They trust the lake, and have faith
828
00:51:24,018 --> 00:51:26,068
that the ancient divinities
which inhabit it,
829
00:51:26,066 --> 00:51:30,376
will bring the lifesaving monsoon.
830
00:51:30,963 --> 00:51:35,963
So far, the Mekong's flood
has always kept its promise.
831
00:51:36,348 --> 00:51:39,398
This year yet again, the water
flowed back up to the lake,
832
00:51:39,398 --> 00:51:41,918
depositing its rich mud
and bringing with it
833
00:51:41,916 --> 00:51:44,676
countless fish.
834
00:51:44,678 --> 00:51:47,708
Once again the Mekong
flooded the Khemara land,
835
00:51:47,714 --> 00:51:50,844
fertilizing the forests and fields,
836
00:51:50,840 --> 00:51:52,990
the people sewed and harvested,
837
00:51:52,993 --> 00:51:55,423
the fish and the birds multiplied,
838
00:51:55,424 --> 00:51:58,544
the plants and the trees thrived,
839
00:51:58,540 --> 00:52:00,310
but all of this happened only because
840
00:52:00,310 --> 00:52:03,090
Cambodia's great lake
accomplished yet another
841
00:52:03,094 --> 00:52:05,864
entire life cycle.
842
00:52:05,857 --> 00:52:09,207
Once again, Tonle Sap, the bounteous lake,
843
00:52:09,206 --> 00:52:12,686
gave far more than was ever asked of it.
64938
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