Original subtitles

This place is almost too beautiful for words...

This place is almost too beautiful for words...

..and it's as old as time.

..and it's as old as time.

It's the land of my birth, and it's very dear to my heart.

It's the land of my birth, and it's very dear to my heart.

And on my journey to uncover the mysteries of the Spice Trail,

And on my journey to uncover the mysteries of the Spice Trail,

when I hear the words turmeric, cardamom, cumin, ginger,

when I hear the words turmeric, cardamom, cumin, ginger,

when I hear the words turmeric, cardamom, cumin, ginger,

my mind flies to this country,

surely the most famous of all for its spices.

surely the most famous of all for its spices.

Welcome to India.

Welcome to India.

'I'm on the second leg of my most fascinating adventure,

'I'm on the second leg of my most fascinating adventure,

'retracing the legendary voyages of the Spice Trail.'

'retracing the legendary voyages of the Spice Trail.'

Oh, it's fantastic.

Oh, it's fantastic.

'This is more than just a journey through the senses...'

'This is more than just a journey through the senses...'

This is where I'm supposed to say, "Don't try this at home."

This is where I'm supposed to say, "Don't try this at home."

SHOUTING

'..it is a story of exploration...'

'..it is a story of exploration...'

This is kind of Queen of Sheba travelling, really.

This is kind of Queen of Sheba travelling, really.

'..and of the human desire to connect.'

'..and of the human desire to connect.'

THEY CHANT

THEY SHOUT

'I began in the far flung Banda Islands in Indonesia,

'I began in the far flung Banda Islands in Indonesia,

'I began in the far flung Banda Islands in Indonesia,

'once the only place on Earth which grew the exotic nutmeg.'

'once the only place on Earth which grew the exotic nutmeg.'

Looks like something from Alien. Look at that.

Looks like something from Alien. Look at that.

Wow.

'I'll be meeting the vanilla hustlers...'

'I'll be meeting the vanilla hustlers...'

So, it's OK? Know when to hold 'em, know when to fold 'em.

So, it's OK? Know when to hold 'em, know when to fold 'em.

'..of Madagascar,

'..of Madagascar,

'before ending my journey in the lost civilisations of Jordan...'

'before ending my journey in the lost civilisations of Jordan...'

Petra!

'..via the fabled island of Zanzibar.'

'..via the fabled island of Zanzibar.'

That makes me feel very weepy.

That makes me feel very weepy.

'But now I'm travelling to the mystical lands of southern India...

'But now I'm travelling to the mystical lands of southern India...

'But now I'm travelling to the mystical lands of southern India...

'..where I'll be discovering how spices have woven through landscapes

'..where I'll be discovering how spices have woven through landscapes

'and people throughout time.'

'and people throughout time.'

Whoa!

Oof!

'So, come with me as I follow a wondrous trail

'So, come with me as I follow a wondrous trail

'that literally shaped our world.'

'that literally shaped our world.'

This is my first time in the medieval city of Hampi.

This is my first time in the medieval city of Hampi.

And in the heart of southern India,

I'll be going across to the coast of Goa

I'll be going across to the coast of Goa

and then down to the lush backwaters of Kerala.

and then down to the lush backwaters of Kerala.

Five hundred years ago, this was one of the richest

Five hundred years ago, this was one of the richest

and most important trading cities on Earth.

and most important trading cities on Earth.

A lot of it was carved from extraordinary granite formations -

A lot of it was carved from extraordinary granite formations -

they're definitely worth a closer look.

they're definitely worth a closer look.

Shinu, look. Oh!

Shinu, look. Oh!

SHE GASPS This is beautiful.

SHE GASPS This is beautiful.

'These coracles have been around for over 2,000 years.

'These coracles have been around for over 2,000 years.

'They've been used on these waters, transporting spices, cargo,

'They've been used on these waters, transporting spices, cargo,

'They've been used on these waters, transporting spices, cargo,

'and, of course, some passengers.'

Shinu, do you have to be strong to do this?

Shinu, do you have to be strong to do this?

Yeah. Yeah, very strong.

Yeah. Yeah, very strong.

The stomach, no coming.

No, flat! Yeah, flat.

No, flat! Yeah, flat.

Shinu, they're so smooth, these rocks.

Shinu, they're so smooth, these rocks.

This is the weather, isn't it? Yeah.

This is the weather, isn't it? Yeah.

When the world was virtually covered with water,

When the world was virtually covered with water,

this little bit was sticking up 2.5 billion years ago,

this little bit was sticking up 2.5 billion years ago,

with the rain and the wind whipping, whipping away

with the rain and the wind whipping, whipping away

and finding underneath it the bare granite bones,

and finding underneath it the bare granite bones,

leaving these implausible decorations.

leaving these implausible decorations.

Some of them balanced, some of them just wedged in,

Some of them balanced, some of them just wedged in,

some of them shaped into all kinds of dream shapes.

some of them shaped into all kinds of dream shapes.

I've seen otters swimming, coming to get their fish,

I've seen otters swimming, coming to get their fish,

the monkeys alive in the hills around here,

the monkeys alive in the hills around here,

then this great peace.

JOANNA GASPS Whoa!

JOANNA GASPS Whoa!

Wow, that was a jump.

Wow, that was a jump.

Shinu, how far is that? How high is that?

Shinu, how far is that? How high is that?

Seven metre. Seven metres?!

Yeah. JOANNA LAUGHS

SHE ATTEMPTS LOCAL LANGUAGE

SHE ATTEMPTS LOCAL LANGUAGE

Gosh.

And just a few miles away from this lake

And just a few miles away from this lake

is the old city of Hampi itself,

is the old city of Hampi itself,

one of the biggest archaeological sites in the world.

one of the biggest archaeological sites in the world.

one of the biggest archaeological sites in the world.

Do you know, it's incredible to believe that 500 years ago,

Do you know, it's incredible to believe that 500 years ago,

this was a huge, bustling metropolis.

this was a huge, bustling metropolis.

The centre of the Vijayanagara Hindu Kingdom was colossal,

The centre of the Vijayanagara Hindu Kingdom was colossal,

with half a million people living here.

with half a million people living here.

There are 1,600 monuments and temples,

There are 1,600 monuments and temples,

There are 1,600 monuments and temples,

but most of them have fallen out of use

because they're all covered in deities,

because they're all covered in deities,

and if the deities are damaged in any way,

and if the deities are damaged in any way,

they're not allowed to worship them.

But the Virupaksha Temple is still alive, as it were,

But the Virupaksha Temple is still alive, as it were,

and is still in use.

Absolutely staggering, the scale of it.

Absolutely staggering, the scale of it.

And at the foot of it, you can see this phenomenal, great marketplace,

And at the foot of it, you can see this phenomenal, great marketplace,

which is beginning to stretch out right along the valley.

which is beginning to stretch out right along the valley.

This is why traders came all across India and from much further afield,

This is why traders came all across India and from much further afield,

from China and Arabia, to see what Hampi had to sell.

from China and Arabia, to see what Hampi had to sell.

from China and Arabia, to see what Hampi had to sell.

It's said that the word "market" comes from Hampi.

It's said that the word "market" comes from Hampi.

The word "marukatte" meant "raised platforms",

The word "marukatte" meant "raised platforms",

where people could sell their commodities,

trading fresh vegetables and things like that.

But the more serious commodities

were all in these massive colonnades,

were all in these massive colonnades,

this astonishing place.

this astonishing place.

In the Kannada language of Karnataka,

In the Kannada language of Karnataka,

"marukatte" means "market" and it does in our lives, too.

"marukatte" means "market" and it does in our lives, too.

All the people came from far and wide, and they went back and said,

All the people came from far and wide, and they went back and said,

"Mar... moraka... mar... market, market, market.

"Mar... moraka... mar... market, market, market.

"I went to the market, actually,

"and got these fabulous diamonds for you, sweetheart."

"and got these fabulous diamonds for you, sweetheart."

SHE CHUCKLES

Notice I've said diamonds and not cardamom or spices.

Notice I've said diamonds and not cardamom or spices.

It's rather lovely to see the monkeys have got here now.

It's rather lovely to see the monkeys have got here now.

The monkeys are called "koti".

There are about 50 million monkeys in India,

There are about 50 million monkeys in India,

and the cheeky little rascals seem to get everywhere.

and the cheeky little rascals seem to get everywhere.

This is, erm...

This is the crew van keeping all their equipment.

This is the crew van keeping all their equipment.

They're adorable, but if you leave a window open, in they go.

They're adorable, but if you leave a window open, in they go.

They're adorable, but if you leave a window open, in they go.

JOANNA LAUGHS

Off you go. Off you go, go on.

Off you go. Off you go, go on.

The Vijayanagara Kingdom was in its fullest glory in the early 1500s,

The Vijayanagara Kingdom was in its fullest glory in the early 1500s,

The Vijayanagara Kingdom was in its fullest glory in the early 1500s,

and that's when its most impressive temple was built.

and that's when its most impressive temple was built.

Sharada Srinivasan is an archaeologist

Sharada Srinivasan is an archaeologist

and classical Indian dance expert.

and classical Indian dance expert.

Hi, Joanna. How lovely to meet you, my dear one.

Hi, Joanna. How lovely to meet you, my dear one.

This is quite spectacular.

This is quite spectacular.

Well, the Vittala Temple is, in a way,

Well, the Vittala Temple is, in a way,

the most spectacular monument here at Hampi.

the most spectacular monument here at Hampi.

This was when Hampi was at its great powers, wasn't it?

This was when Hampi was at its great powers, wasn't it?

Yes.

What makes this particular monument quite unique, really,

What makes this particular monument quite unique, really,

is certain thinner sections of this granite give off tonalities.

is certain thinner sections of this granite give off tonalities.

What do you mean, if you... Yes.

..it makes a different sort of sound?Yes.

They each give off these sounds of the Indian musical scale,

They each give off these sounds of the Indian musical scale,

you know, going...

SINGS INDIAN MUSICAL SCALE

SINGS INDIAN MUSICAL SCALE

PILLAR CHIMES

PILLAR CHIMES

'The different sections of pillars give a range of instrumental tones,

'The different sections of pillars give a range of instrumental tones,

'The different sections of pillars give a range of instrumental tones,

'such as strings, percussion and woodwind...

'such as strings, percussion and woodwind...

'..and how they achieved this still baffles scientists today.'

'..and how they achieved this still baffles scientists today.'

'..and how they achieved this still baffles scientists today.'

You know, in every one of the sculptures are stylised as postures,

You know, in every one of the sculptures are stylised as postures,

which, according to the chroniclers, they were wearing diamonds and topaz

which, according to the chroniclers, they were wearing diamonds and topaz

which, according to the chroniclers, they were wearing diamonds and topaz

and agate and these silk saris.

and agate and these silk saris.

They were all mesmerised.

These hubs, like Hampi, is where everybody came,

These hubs, like Hampi, is where everybody came,

bringing what they'd got...

Yes. ..and trading it and swapping it.

Yes. ..and trading it and swapping it.

The Vijayanagara rulers were getting the horses

The Vijayanagara rulers were getting the horses

from the Arabs and the Central Asians,

and those were also in exchange for the spices.

and those were also in exchange for the spices.

So horses for spices. SHARADA LAUGHS

So horses for spices. SHARADA LAUGHS

I mean, I think it would be unkind to say that in Britain, at the time,

I mean, I think it would be unkind to say that in Britain, at the time,

we were eating boiled beef and carrots.

we were eating boiled beef and carrots.

But... But food was pretty unpleasant without spices.

But... But food was pretty unpleasant without spices.

And once spices came, things like cardamom, turmeric, cumin, ginger,

And once spices came, things like cardamom, turmeric, cumin, ginger,

And once spices came, things like cardamom, turmeric, cumin, ginger,

these were just the food of the gods.

these were just the food of the gods.

Hampi may no longer be a global trading metropolis,

Hampi may no longer be a global trading metropolis,

but still a couple of thousand people live here...

but still a couple of thousand people live here...

..and I'm up early the next morning to meet someone who was born here

..and I'm up early the next morning to meet someone who was born here

..and I'm up early the next morning to meet someone who was born here

and takes full advantage of these extraordinary surroundings.

and takes full advantage of these extraordinary surroundings.

I'm Joanna.

It's so good to meet you. Good to meet you. I'm Sunny.

It's so good to meet you. Good to meet you. I'm Sunny.

Oh, Sunny, well, what a place we're in. Which one are you...

Oh, Sunny, well, what a place we're in. Which one are you...

Which one are you going to climb? Just that boulder.

Which one are you going to climb? Just that boulder.

Let's go walk, I'll show you up.

But there's no way up it. What are you doing?

But there's no way up it. What are you doing?

So, we're gonna be climbing with small crimps.

So, we're gonna be climbing with small crimps.

One of your fingertips are gonna be touching. Yeah.

One of your fingertips are gonna be touching. Yeah.

Like, just using your skin, like this. Just that, OK.

Like, just using your skin, like this. Just that, OK.

You just can lock it like that. Lock it like that?Yeah.

You just can lock it like that. Lock it like that?Yeah.

This is unbelievably scritchy and scratchy,

This is unbelievably scritchy and scratchy,

just using tips like that.

Like, almost like tips, you can see...

Almost like that. OK, OK.

So, now take your thumb over here. OK, there.

So, now take your thumb over here. OK, there.

So you're gonna be feeling that rock.

Yeah, very good. That's... Whoa.

Yeah, very good. That's... Whoa.

And taking your right foot and left foot,

and taking your left hand up and locking it.

and taking your left hand up and locking it.

And lift it up, and right foot.

And lift it up, and right foot.

And then, when there is three bodies fixed,

And then, when there is three bodies fixed,

then only can reach the fourth one back.

then only can reach the fourth one back.

OK. It's triangle power.

Then I stand up, I move the other leg.

Then I stand up, I move the other leg.

Yes. Triangles.

Yes.

And you're going to be placing your feet and standing on it.

And you're going to be placing your feet and standing on it.

Going up.

JOANNA LAUGHS It's my paradise.

SUNNY LAUGHS Monkey paradise.

Oh, Sunny, what a thing.

You did that so easily. You did it slowly for me,

You did that so easily. You did it slowly for me,

but I can tell you can go up very quickly, can't you?

but I can tell you can go up very quickly, can't you?

When you're climbing, what do you think about, anything?

When you're climbing, what do you think about, anything?

When you're climbing, what do you think about, anything?

Nah, you should not think about anything.

You just need to focus on your breath. Yeah.

You just need to focus on your breath. Yeah.

When you're climbing, you should observe a lot.

When you're climbing, you should observe a lot.

That's easy. Love observing it.

That's easy. Love observing it.

If we could stop being distracted, focus.

If we could stop being distracted, focus.

Well, like, while climbing, you need, like, that silence, also.

Well, like, while climbing, you need, like, that silence, also.

When you focus and you breathe more, we can do more, a lot of things.

When you focus and you breathe more, we can do more, a lot of things.

And do some meditation. Focus on your breath.

And do some meditation. Focus on your breath.

Do nothing.

'I'm in the remarkable medieval city of Hampi,

'I'm in the remarkable medieval city of Hampi,

'and my new climbing friend, Sunny, has invited me to his home

'and my new climbing friend, Sunny, has invited me to his home

'for a special festival preparation.'

'for a special festival preparation.'

Hello? Hello.

Oh, Sunny, what a... Good evening.

Oh, Sunny, what a... Good evening.

It's so nice to see you. Oh, look. Is this OK?

It's so nice to see you. Oh, look. Is this OK?

So beautiful, actually. Oh, I'm delighted.

So beautiful, actually. Oh, I'm delighted.

Welcome. My brother... Namaste.

Namaste. Namaste, how lovely to see you.

..and my aunt, and my sister, brother, kids...

..and my aunt, and my sister, brother, kids...

Oh.

..and my mum is inside. How wonderful.

Oh, namaste. And she's my lovely mum.

Oh, namaste. And she's my lovely mum.

Namaste. Namaste.

We love your son. We love him. ALL CHUCKLE

We love your son. We love him. ALL CHUCKLE

This is so beautiful here.

Before going festival,

so we're going to be worshipping our god from home, home god.

so we're going to be worshipping our god from home, home god.

And who is the goddess?

So, this is called Lakshmi. Lakshmi.

So, this is called Lakshmi. Lakshmi.

She's a god for money. Yeah.

And what we are worshipping today, it is a part of the name of it.

And what we are worshipping today, it is a part of the name of it.

Like, every god in India,

they're going to be having, like, goddess name.

Like Shiva, eight names. Yes.

Like Shiva, eight names. Yes.

Like one god. Yeah.

Like that, every god having plenty of names like that.

Like that, every god having plenty of names like that.

Yes. Brilliant. Yeah.

Complicated, but brilliant.

Complicated, but brilliant.

'The Hindu faith is fascinating.

'The Hindu faith is fascinating.

'And having so many incarnations and different gods

'And having so many incarnations and different gods

'means that people can tailor their faith to them.'

'means that people can tailor their faith to them.'

Yay!

'We've been decorated with holy turmeric for the festival,

'We've been decorated with holy turmeric for the festival,

'which, in Hinduism, is considered sacred,

'which, in Hinduism, is considered sacred,

'being linked to fertility, good luck

'being linked to fertility, good luck

'and protection from evil spirits.

'Spices are deeply embedded in India's spiritual identity.'

'Spices are deeply embedded in India's spiritual identity.'

SINGS IN OWN LANGUAGE

SINGS IN OWN LANGUAGE

Thank you.

Thank you.

'Sunny goes to the temple to join more of his family...

'Sunny goes to the temple to join more of his family...

'..and I bump into my professor friend, Sharada, again.

'..and I bump into my professor friend, Sharada, again.

'Sharada's leading us to the focal point of the festival -

'Sharada's leading us to the focal point of the festival -

'a holy tree, where all kinds of blessings

'a holy tree, where all kinds of blessings

'and auspicious gestures are taking place.

'and auspicious gestures are taking place.

'Much of the activity is focused on the tree itself.

'Much of the activity is focused on the tree itself.

'In Hindu legend, the leaves are likened to gold

'In Hindu legend, the leaves are likened to gold

'and symbolise prosperity.

'and symbolise prosperity.

'There's also a very sweet way of sharing them

'There's also a very sweet way of sharing them

'and offering them to friends.'

Sharada, look, I've got some. I'm going to give mine to you.

Sharada, look, I've got some. I'm going to give mine to you.

Oh, thank you. There.

Well, this is such a special ritual over here,

Well, this is such a special ritual over here,

where banni tree's intertwined with the peepal tree

where banni tree's intertwined with the peepal tree

as an emblem of friendship.

And there's a Kannada saying that... SPEAKS KANNADA

And there's a Kannada saying that... SPEAKS KANNADA

And there's a Kannada saying that... SPEAKS KANNADA

..which means that, you know,

friendship is more precious than gold, like the banni leaves.

friendship is more precious than gold, like the banni leaves.

Thank you so much.

And, you know, it takes such a special person

And, you know, it takes such a special person

to have appreciated the magnificence and brought Hampi alive...

to have appreciated the magnificence and brought Hampi alive...

Sharada, friends for life. Yes, indeed.

Sharada, friends for life. Yes, indeed.

It's so lovely, Joanna, thank you.

It's so lovely, Joanna, thank you.

'My time in Hampi has been so memorable.'

'My time in Hampi has been so memorable.'

When this kingdom was the second richest in the world,

When this kingdom was the second richest in the world,

just a handful of black pepper would have been worth more

just a handful of black pepper would have been worth more

than the weekly wage of most workers in the UK...

than the weekly wage of most workers in the UK...

..and most Europeans didn't even really know where it came from,

..and most Europeans didn't even really know where it came from,

so there was a race to find a new trade route to India.

so there was a race to find a new trade route to India.

I'm getting on the slow train to Goa,

I'm getting on the slow train to Goa,

on a railway built by the Portuguese,

on a railway built by the Portuguese,

and it was they who first found their way here by sea,

and it was they who first found their way here by sea,

and it was they who first found their way here by sea,

all the way back in 1498.

all the way back in 1498.

CHANTING NAMES OF WARES

CHANTING NAMES OF WARES

VENDOR:Chai, chai, chai, chai, chai.

VENDOR:Chai, chai, chai, chai, chai.

A wonderful thing about stopping at a station on an Indian train

A wonderful thing about stopping at a station on an Indian train

is that it immediately is alive with chaiwalas,

is that it immediately is alive with chaiwalas,

which are people selling tea, or paniwalas selling water,

which are people selling tea, or paniwalas selling water,

or people selling lovely little soft cakes.

And they come through crying their wares,

And they come through crying their wares,

their voice pitched at a slightly different level,

their voice pitched at a slightly different level,

so you'll know exactly when they're coming and what they're selling.

so you'll know exactly when they're coming and what they're selling.

They used to have a man in the streets, in London,

who used to sell the Evening Standard going...

He used to sell the paper he'd go... SHOUTS INDISTINCTLY

He used to sell the paper he'd go... SHOUTS INDISTINCTLY

..and when you heard that sound, you'd know that it was a paper boy.

..and when you heard that sound, you'd know that it was a paper boy.

HE SHOUTS NAMES OF WARES

And I've got this little beautiful paper cup of chai,

And I've got this little beautiful paper cup of chai,

which is chai masala, which is intensely sweet

which is chai masala, which is intensely sweet

and very hot and strong and milky and got spices in it.

and very hot and strong and milky and got spices in it.

and very hot and strong and milky and got spices in it.

VENDOR:Chai, chai, chai, chai. Chai, chai, chai, chai.

VENDOR:Chai, chai, chai, chai. Chai, chai, chai, chai.

VENDOR:Chai, chai, chai, chai. Chai, chai, chai, chai.

Chai, chai, chai, chai.

'But the reason this particular train is special

'But the reason this particular train is special

'is because it goes over one of the biggest waterfalls in India.'

'is because it goes over one of the biggest waterfalls in India.'

I understand that this is where you get the best view

I understand that this is where you get the best view

of the fabulous Dudhsagar Falls, which I can't wait to see.

of the fabulous Dudhsagar Falls, which I can't wait to see.

of the fabulous Dudhsagar Falls, which I can't wait to see.

'As the waterfall approaches,

'I get chatting to a kind-looking gentleman who's sitting next to me.'

'I get chatting to a kind-looking gentleman who's sitting next to me.'

It's lovely to meet you.

Baba, you look like a holy man. Are you a holy man?

Baba, you look like a holy man. Are you a holy man?

Will you come and sit with me to see the waterfall?

Will you come and sit with me to see the waterfall?

There's this water coming everywhere,

falling off the rocks, tumbling down.

falling off the rocks, tumbling down.

It's as if it's pouring with rain.

'And just on the other side of this tunnel,

'we'll be met by the amazing Dudhsagar Falls,

'we'll be met by the amazing Dudhsagar Falls,

'which translates to "sea of milk" because of the spray it creates.'

'which translates to "sea of milk" because of the spray it creates.'

'which translates to "sea of milk" because of the spray it creates.'

Coming up. Oh, whoa!

Coming up. Oh, whoa!

Oh! How thrilling!

Oh! How thrilling!

Suddenly, that dashing mass of water,

Suddenly, that dashing mass of water,

and Baba David's quickly throwing his coconut for the blessing out.

and Baba David's quickly throwing his coconut for the blessing out.

How gorgeous.

And how gorgeous to have seen it with David.

And how gorgeous to have seen it with David.

The tracks descend to the coast of Goa.

The tracks descend to the coast of Goa.

This is the region that was officially part

This is the region that was officially part

of Portuguese territory for over 450 years,

of Portuguese territory for over 450 years,

of Portuguese territory for over 450 years,

and you can still definitely see their influence.

and you can still definitely see their influence.

I'm used to little pit stops like this in London

I'm used to little pit stops like this in London

because I live in an area which is nicknamed Little Portugal,

because I live in an area which is nicknamed Little Portugal,

because I live in an area which is nicknamed Little Portugal,

but the last place in the world I imagined to find all this

but the last place in the world I imagined to find all this

is in southern India.

JOANNA GASPS So nice to see you.

How nice to see you. What is your name?

I'm Gletta Mascarenhas.

Mascarenhas? That's a very Portuguese name.

Mascarenhas? That's a very Portuguese name.

Nice meeting you.

So, I've got some pastel de nata for you.

So, I've got some pastel de nata for you.

This is a family concern. Oh, yeah, it is.

How long have... have the family...? So, like, 92 years now.

How long have... have the family...? So, like, 92 years now.

Oh, my gosh.

This is very good. We do it in our wood-fired oven.

This is very good. We do it in our wood-fired oven.

A wood fire? Yes.

Oh, that's gor... that's the taste. Yes.

Thank you so much. Obrigada. Thank you.

Thank you so much. Obrigada. Thank you.

IN PORTUGUESE ACCENT: No, no, no. It's not for you, baby.

IN PORTUGUESE ACCENT: No, no, no. It's not for you, baby.

It's for me. For fat woman sitting on chair.

It's for me. For fat woman sitting on chair.

Look, gone. It's gone.

Look, gone. It's gone.

It's gone, baby.

One of the largest cities in Goa is called Vasco da Gama,

One of the largest cities in Goa is called Vasco da Gama,

One of the largest cities in Goa is called Vasco da Gama,

named after the fierce Portuguese explorer

who broke new ground for Europeans,

who broke new ground for Europeans,

making the first successful sea voyage to India from Europe.

making the first successful sea voyage to India from Europe.

He was the first to sail all the way round Africa,

He was the first to sail all the way round Africa,

fuelled by a thirst for spices.

fuelled by a thirst for spices.

'Hansel is a writer and a very knowledgeable local.'

'Hansel is a writer and a very knowledgeable local.'

Hansel, we are in a place called Vasco da Gama.

Hansel, we are in a place called Vasco da Gama.

Yeah, he opened up the trade of spice to Europe,

Yeah, he opened up the trade of spice to Europe,

something that they never had.

We were Hindu, we were all other religions.

We were Hindu, we were all other religions.

We had Jews, we had Arabs and Turks who were here,

We had Jews, we had Arabs and Turks who were here,

who were completely different.

They were the traders. We were the growers. We grew it.

They were the traders. We were the growers. We grew it.

We gave it to them, and they took it out,

We gave it to them, and they took it out,

and Europe wanted that.

What was the best spice? What was the most valuable?

What was the best spice? What was the most valuable?

Pepper. Pepper.

Black gold. Tell me why it's called black gold.

Black gold. Tell me why it's called black gold.

You can raise the profile of an egg like never before.

You can raise the profile of an egg like never before.

You could put it on a steak,

make that steak better than you could imagine,

make that steak better than you could imagine,

with just a sprinkling of this magic dust

with just a sprinkling of this magic dust

that could change it completely.

And it's interesting when we talk about the first Europeans coming,

And it's interesting when we talk about the first Europeans coming,

they didn't just come and do trade.

There was conquest. There was bloodshed.

There was conquest. There was bloodshed.

There was war.

All three colonisers - the Portuguese, Dutch and British -

All three colonisers - the Portuguese, Dutch and British -

fought for control of the spice trade

fought for control of the spice trade

and made huge profits shipping spices out of the country.

and made huge profits shipping spices out of the country.

But what the Portuguese brought with them

also changed the culture here in India.

also changed the culture here in India.

I'm gonna use Portuguese words.

They brought "tomate", "batata", and they brought "chillies".

They brought "tomate", "batata", and they brought "chillies".

Chillies. Chillies!

You had to be a landowner to grow pepper,

You had to be a landowner to grow pepper,

but chillies, you can just put in a small pot and grow it.

but chillies, you can just put in a small pot and grow it.

So it kind of liberated spice to everyone.

So it kind of liberated spice to everyone.

Hansel, I could talk to you forever. THEY CHUCKLE

Hansel, I could talk to you forever. THEY CHUCKLE

Will you show me in the market all these various bits and pieces?

Will you show me in the market all these various bits and pieces?

Like a tapestry of beautiful things.

Like a tapestry of beautiful things.

I wish my cupboard was arranged like this.

Me too!

Tomate. Tomate.

Batata. Batata.

Yeah, batata. Batata, yeah.

Yeah, batata. Batata, yeah.

And chillies. Extraordinary.

Cos this is what we truly believe India to have had all its life.

Cos this is what we truly believe India to have had all its life.

All its life!

We've got a nice spice store here. Look, yes.

They've got cumin and turmeric.

They've got cumin and turmeric.

And it's that vivid, irreplaceable yellow, isn't it?

And it's that vivid, irreplaceable yellow, isn't it?

And pepper!

It's dried.

Mmm. Oh.

Hot, hot, hot. It's hot.

It's very interesting because it could easily be confused

It's very interesting because it could easily be confused

for a hot spice, like this.

Yeah. In the old days, this is a fortune.

Yeah. In the old days, this is a fortune.

How much would this have cost?

It's relative. It's not the value of the grain.

It's relative. It's not the value of the grain.

You would have to give me a horse for this.

Here's my Arab stallion. Thank you for the pepper.

Here's my Arab stallion. Thank you for the pepper.

Isn't that wonderful?

He's given you a date. Oh, I love that.

Crikey.

He's always putting a little more, so you'll come back.

He's always putting a little more, so you'll come back.

Oh, that's generous.

Mmm, I love dates,

particularly in slow motion, like this.

particularly in slow motion, like this.

Mmm, good, so I want to see. What are you going to do with this?

Mmm, good, so I want to see. What are you going to do with this?

Something magical.

Oh, go on.

Where are we now?

This is my distillery.

No, stop! It's not a distillery. HANSEL LAUGHS

No, stop! It's not a distillery. HANSEL LAUGHS

It's not like any distillery I've ever been in.

It's not like any distillery I've ever been in.

But what are you distilling? What's it called?

Feni. Feni?Feni. So...

I've never heard of it. Yes. It's a category.

We take the juice of the cashew fruit

or the nectar of coconut.

We let it naturally ferment.

And what are we doing with our pepper

that we got in the market?

Oh, yes. So this is the magic ingredient.

Does it add flavour? Yes. We can put some.

Does it add flavour? Yes. We can put some.

Oh, listen. Yeah, that's it. That's good.

Oh, listen. Yeah, that's it. That's good.

We are adding distilled, that we distilled yesterday.

We are adding distilled, that we distilled yesterday.

You can taste it.

HE LAUGHS

It's quite nice. It's quite nice.

It's almost like a sake. Yes, it is.

Yeah, like a sake. And we seal it with mud.

Yeah, like a sake. And we seal it with mud.

So you're gonna take some clay. Yeah.

So you're gonna take some clay. Yeah.

This is almost like the movie Ghost.

I look like Patrick Swayze. You do, actually.

It's the first thing that came to my mind when I met you.

It's the first thing that came to my mind when I met you.

So now what? Light the fire? Now we will take some leaves.

So now what? Light the fire? Now we will take some leaves.

This is... This is coconut. Yeah.

This is... This is coconut. Yeah.

Just go straight in.

AMERICAN DRAWL: Hansel, man of fire.

AMERICAN DRAWL: Hansel, man of fire.

There it goes. HANSEL CHUCKLES

That's very good. Good, good, good.

That's very good. Good, good, good.

We should see some alcohol coming out in about an hour. No!

We should see some alcohol coming out in about an hour. No!

But I can actually show you something interesting.

But I can actually show you something interesting.

Have you got something even more interesting?

Have you got something even more interesting?

I've got a lot of tricks up my sleeve.

BOTH CHUCKLE

JOANNA GASPS Surprise!

Oh!

This is an alfresco feni tasting.

This is an alfresco feni tasting.

It's cheaper than air condition. But look, there are little fishes.

It's cheaper than air condition. But look, there are little fishes.

Yes. So you get a free fish pedicure.

Yes. So you get a free fish pedicure.

Take the seat.

BOTH CHUCKLE

It's just extraordinary. Yeah. Yeah.

It's just extraordinary. Yeah. Yeah.

POP Wow!

Ooh, that's the sound we love.

Yeah. BOTH LAUGH

The fishes, nibbling? Nibbling, yes. It's...

The fishes, nibbling? Nibbling, yes. It's...

This is the only place in the world

This is the only place in the world

that decided to make an alcohol out of the cashew fruit,

that decided to make an alcohol out of the cashew fruit,

not the nut.

The cashew's a fruit that came from the Amazon.

The cashew's a fruit that came from the Amazon.

From the Portuguese? From the Portuguese.

We are the only people who said, "Let's find a more inventive use."

We are the only people who said, "Let's find a more inventive use."

We didn't just accept the chilli or the cashew.

We didn't just accept the chilli or the cashew.

We embraced them, making it an inseparable part of your fibre.

We embraced them, making it an inseparable part of your fibre.

Cashew feni is like that for us today.

Cashew feni is like that for us today.

We say saude. Saude.

So we've got a fire going. Oh, look at that!

So we've got a fire going. Oh, look at that!

Yeah, it's fresh out of the distillery. Straight out.

Yeah, it's fresh out of the distillery. Straight out.

Oh, my gosh! Ha-ha, it's...

Oh, my gosh! Ha-ha, it's...

Is it peppery? Spicy?

It's peppery and spicy. It's delicious.

It's peppery and spicy. It's delicious.

Yeah. Hansel, thank you so much.

Oh. Thank you.

Enjoying the warm afterglow of feni,

Enjoying the warm afterglow of feni,

I'm heading inland because I want to see

I'm heading inland because I want to see

how the little pots on my spice rack begin life.

how the little pots on my spice rack begin life.

And as a keen gardener myself,

I'm looking forward to meeting a man after my own heart

I'm looking forward to meeting a man after my own heart

with his holistic approach to growing spices.

with his holistic approach to growing spices.

Mr Sachin.

Joanna, welcome to our plantation. Oh, thank you so much.

Joanna, welcome to our plantation. Oh, thank you so much.

Namaste. How lovely to see you. Thank you.

Namaste. How lovely to see you. Thank you.

You see. Thank you.Plantation.

This type of set-up is called kulagar.

This type of set-up is called kulagar.

Kulagar means combination of all plants and trees and creepers

Kulagar means combination of all plants and trees and creepers

Kulagar means combination of all plants and trees and creepers

which grows well with each other.

MUSIC: 'Ae Ajnabi' by Udit Narayan, Mahalaxmi & Altaf Raja

MUSIC: 'Ae Ajnabi' by Udit Narayan, Mahalaxmi & Altaf Raja

What is the difference between this beautiful plantation

What is the difference between this beautiful plantation

What is the difference between this beautiful plantation

and the great big, more industrial, estates?

and the great big, more industrial, estates?

It works on the principle of forest.

It works on the principle of forest.

The leaves of one plant and other plant is a medicine.

The leaves of one plant and other plant is a medicine.

The root of third plant, a fourth plant, is a fertiliser.

The root of third plant, a fourth plant, is a fertiliser.

Like that, it is.

The huge suppliers of everything, the monoculturalists...Uh-huh?

The huge suppliers of everything, the monoculturalists...Uh-huh?

..are they interested in this kind of farming?

..are they interested in this kind of farming?

No, no. Oh. Why?

Profit margin. It's comparatively less.

Profit margin. It's comparatively less.

Mm. It's not aggressive.

But everything's better. People are happier.

But everything's better. People are happier.

Life is good here. Life is good here.

Life is good. Everything is good.

Life is good. Everything is good.

Except, you see, the glamour part we don't have.

Except, you see, the glamour part we don't have.

No.

So most of the 90% of the people, they want glamour part.

So most of the 90% of the people, they want glamour part.

I know. Isn't it funny?

This is pepper. Yes.

And look at the peppercorns all the way up the tree.

And look at the peppercorns all the way up the tree.

The ripe one is sweet. Sweet.

The ripe one is sweet. Sweet.

That's why 10% crop, we are not harvesting it. Why?

That's why 10% crop, we are not harvesting it. Why?

For the sake of birds, cos small birds comes and eats.

For the sake of birds, cos small birds comes and eats.

So lovely.

Because this world is not for human being only,

Because this world is not for human being only,

it's for everybody.

It's the most important thing.

Oh, look.

My family cooking. Would you like to join them?

My family cooking. Would you like to join them?

I would love to. Hello, hello!

I would love to. Hello, hello!

'As we near the end of the tour of the plantation,

'As we near the end of the tour of the plantation,

'I get a chance to look at how the Sachin family

'I get a chance to look at how the Sachin family

'use all the delicious ingredients they cultivate here.

'use all the delicious ingredients they cultivate here.

'This really is authentic South Indian cooking,

'This really is authentic South Indian cooking,

'still using time-honoured utensils, recipes,

'still using time-honoured utensils, recipes,

'and, of course, an array of spices.

'But before we eat,

'Mr Sachin has a little something I must try first.'

'Mr Sachin has a little something I must try first.'

JOANNA GASPS, MAN SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE

JOANNA GASPS, MAN SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE

'This is a betel nut tree, or paan, as it's more widely known.

'This is a betel nut tree, or paan, as it's more widely known.

'This is a betel nut tree, or paan, as it's more widely known.

'It's chewed regularly by millions in India.

'It's chewed regularly by millions in India.

'It gives you a mild high, but it is addictive.

'It gives you a mild high, but it is addictive.

'When chewed to excess, its staining red colour

'When chewed to excess, its staining red colour

'can leave you with a very distinctive smile.

'can leave you with a very distinctive smile.

'So I might try this just the once.'

'So I might try this just the once.'

HE CHUCKLES

The betel nut taste like a wood.

The betel nut taste like a wood.

So it's like chewing furniture. OK. In it goes.

So it's like chewing furniture. OK. In it goes.

It's very aromatic.

It's very aromatic.

And it's quite... It numbs. It makes...

And it's quite... It numbs. It makes...

Yeah. Numbs, yes. Right.

Yeah. Numbs, yes. Right.

SLURRED: So I'm now numb there...

SOUTHERN DRAWL: I am in paradise.

SOUTHERN DRAWL: I am in paradise.

JOANNA CHUCKLES

Thank you so much. Thank you so much!

Thank you so much. Thank you so much!

I'm hungry. Look at this!

I'm hungry. Look at this!

Even if you are not hungry, I am hungry.

Even if you are not hungry, I am hungry.

Oh, how gorgeous. Little bit of that.

Khatkhate.

And that's a sort of vegetabley...? Yes.

Oh, my gosh. Look at that.

So, usually you would eat with fingers,

maybe take a chapati or rice and do it.

maybe take a chapati or rice and do it.

I'm unskilled at that. I've had some paan, to be honest.

I'm unskilled at that. I've had some paan, to be honest.

I've been chewing betel nut all afternoon,

so I'm not completely safe.

This is divine.

There are around 2 million Goans,

There are around 2 million Goans,

but up to 7 million tourists flock here each year,

but up to 7 million tourists flock here each year,

but up to 7 million tourists flock here each year,

attracted, understandably, to its stunning beaches.

attracted, understandably, to its stunning beaches.

And now my spice trail is leading me south,

And now my spice trail is leading me south,

to the fertile lands of Kerala.

to the fertile lands of Kerala.

But first, I've begged to meet a living legend.

But first, I've begged to meet a living legend.

Meenakshi Amma is a great-grandmother

Meenakshi Amma is a great-grandmother

who runs this school of Kalarippayattu,

who runs this school of Kalarippayattu,

one of the oldest martial arts in the world.

one of the oldest martial arts in the world.

SHE SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE

SHE SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE

Alaka? Hi.

Hello. I'm Joanna. Very nice to meet you.

Hello. I'm Joanna. Very nice to meet you.

Oh, Alaka, this is exciting. Look at all this.

Oh, Alaka, this is exciting. Look at all this.

Well, let me see this little baby. JOANNA GASPS

Well, let me see this little baby. JOANNA GASPS

And you are Meenakshi's granddaughter?

And you are Meenakshi's granddaughter?

And this is her great-granddaughter? Yeah.

So, how old is your grandmother?

She's 80 now. Eight-zero.

She's 80 now. Eight-zero.

Eighty! Eighty. Is she?

And she's still holding these classes.

Yes, she's here, teaching the students.

Yes, she's here, teaching the students.

Meenakshi has been teaching here since 1979.

Meenakshi has been teaching here since 1979.

She still has over a hundred students

who come every week, eager to take in some of her wisdom.

who come every week, eager to take in some of her wisdom.

SHE SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE

She's been honoured

with countless awards and recognitions.

with countless awards and recognitions.

You see these very lethal-looking ones?

You see these very lethal-looking ones?

My mother, as a great-grandmother, had one of these under her pillow

My mother, as a great-grandmother, had one of these under her pillow

cos she was a child brought up in India and so on,

cos she was a child brought up in India and so on,

in case an intruder came into the house,

and she'd give him that.

Do you think it's something to do with being a great-granny

Do you think it's something to do with being a great-granny

that makes you slightly more sort of capable?

that makes you slightly more sort of capable?

Let's put it like that.

I'm a granny at the moment,

and great-granny-hood is ahead of me.

and great-granny-hood is ahead of me.

So I'm looking for a decent dagger, obviously, and I shall be prepared.

So I'm looking for a decent dagger, obviously, and I shall be prepared.

Don't write grannies off, ever. As for great-grannies...

Don't write grannies off, ever. As for great-grannies...

Phew.

That's Meenakshi. Meenakshi, this is wonderful.

That's Meenakshi. Meenakshi, this is wonderful.

I'm such an admirer already.

I'm such an admirer already.

I'm very near your age.

I'm very near your age.

How old are you? Seventy-six.

Seventy-six. I'm chasing you.

ALL LAUGH

ALL LAUGH

You became involved with this when you were a young girl.

You became involved with this when you were a young girl.

You can see... I can see.

I don't have to tell you.

You look about 50. I mean, it's ridiculous.

You look about 50. I mean, it's ridiculous.

Is there the tiniest little move

or something graceful I could do that I could start?

or something graceful I could do that I could start?

What would be a little tiny...?

SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE

GIVES COMMAND IN OWN LANGUAGE

GIVES COMMAND IN OWN LANGUAGE

Yeah. Yeah.

No, sorry, darling. Sorry, probably can't do that.

No, sorry, darling. Sorry, probably can't do that.

I know, I know, I know. LAUGHTER

I know, I know, I know. LAUGHTER

I can't do that, darling.

So full of admiration.

You can see how this will present somebody

who is completely unafraid of the world.

who is completely unafraid of the world.

I think it brings you a kind of confidence...

I think it brings you a kind of confidence...

That's definitely it. ..which would... Yeah.

So you don't have to fight anybody, cos they won't fight you.Yeah.

So you don't have to fight anybody, cos they won't fight you.Yeah.

Phew.

Kerala means "the land of coconuts."

Kerala means "the land of coconuts."

We've already travelled over a thousand kilometres

We've already travelled over a thousand kilometres

on the southern Indian spice trail,

and some therapeutic TLC sounds like heaven.

and some therapeutic TLC sounds like heaven.

There is an Ayurvedic treatment

which is used by 80% of the population here.

which is used by 80% of the population here.

Ayurdara is an Ayurvedic centre reached by ferry on Vypin island.

Ayurdara is an Ayurvedic centre reached by ferry on Vypin island.

Ayurdara is an Ayurvedic centre reached by ferry on Vypin island.

But before they see me,

they wanted a very in-depth picture

they wanted a very in-depth picture

of what type of person I am.

Some of the questions are quite challenging.

Some of the questions are quite challenging.

"I'm enthusiastic and vivacious by nature." Yeah, that's me.

"I'm enthusiastic and vivacious by nature." Yeah, that's me.

"My energy tends to come in bursts.

"My energy tends to come in bursts.

"I'm easily excitable."

I was going, "Oh, blimey, this sounds like a strange one."

I was going, "Oh, blimey, this sounds like a strange one."

"Even though I might not always show it,

"I become irritable or angry quite easily.

"I become irritable or angry quite easily.

"I don't tolerate foods that are very hot or spicy."

"I don't tolerate foods that are very hot or spicy."

Well, I do, I adore them.

"I've a large, solid body build."

"I've a large, solid body build."

I've sort of turned into a walrus, and I'm going...

I've sort of turned into a walrus, and I'm going...

This might be me. I don't know.

I mean, I don't know how to judge myself.

And so I sort of half-ticked it,

in case when I get there, they go,

"You are a fat, blobby person. Why didn't you tick this?"

"You are a fat, blobby person. Why didn't you tick this?"

I'm so overexcited, I can't tell you.

They're gonna cure me of everything that's wrong anyway.

They're gonna cure me of everything that's wrong anyway.

Everything's going to be cured. Nearly there.

Away from the bustle of the ferry port,

Away from the bustle of the ferry port,

Ayurdara is a haven of tranquillity.

Ayurdara is a haven of tranquillity.

'Dr Jyotsna is going to interpret my answers

'Dr Jyotsna is going to interpret my answers

'and tell me all about the principles of Ayurveda.'

'and tell me all about the principles of Ayurveda.'

This is so good of you to see me.

This is so good of you to see me.

And what a peaceful and wonderful place you have here.

And what a peaceful and wonderful place you have here.

Thank you.

You must explain to me, what is Ayurvedic treatment?

You must explain to me, what is Ayurvedic treatment?

Ah. So, the very basic of Ayurveda is the doshas.

Ah. So, the very basic of Ayurveda is the doshas.

Ah. So, the very basic of Ayurveda is the doshas.

So these are the bioenergies in your system.

So these are the bioenergies in your system.

So sweet. You've got me down.

I'm already one of your cases, am I not?

THEY LAUGH

Will you explain to me about the three doshas?

Will you explain to me about the three doshas?

What exactly...? Because in all kinds of beliefs,

What exactly...? Because in all kinds of beliefs,

there are earth, air, fire, water.

Is that what the doshas are? Yeah, it is.

Is that what the doshas are? Yeah, it is.

We have the air-space combination, vata.

We have the air-space combination, vata.

We have the air-space combination, vata.

Like air.

We cannot contain the air inside our hand. No.

We cannot contain the air inside our hand. No.

We cannot contain the air inside our hand. No.

They might be very creative,

They might be very creative,

but they might be jumping from one thought to another

but they might be jumping from one thought to another

all of a sudden.

Like a butterfly. Yeah. Exactly.

Like a butterfly. Yeah. Exactly.

What was it, pitta? Pitta.

What was it, pitta? Pitta.

Which is fire. Fire. Exactly.

Hot. Hot.

So they have a very strong personality.

So they have a very strong personality.

If they have an opinion about something,

If they have an opinion about something,

it's a little difficult to change them.

it's a little difficult to change them.

Stubborn. Very stubborn.

Oh. But it is good professionally.

Oh. But it is good professionally.

They are kind of perfectionists. Ah.

They are kind of perfectionists. Ah.

Kapha, the water, earth, the heavier elements.

Kapha, the water, earth, the heavier elements.

What kind of a character is that going to be?

You will always feel grounded.

You can feel that calm disposition in them.

You can feel that calm disposition in them.

They tend to gain weight easily,

but they have a very good long-term memory.

but they have a very good long-term memory.

It stays. Yeah, it stays in their brain.

It stays. Yeah, it stays in their brain.

And if you look at me, can you tell by my physique and the way I am?

And if you look at me, can you tell by my physique and the way I am?

And if you look at me, can you tell by my physique and the way I am?

You can tell already. Look, your eyes are looking at me.

You can tell already. Look, your eyes are looking at me.

You can see I'm rotting away.

No, you look healthy. Yeah, you look beautiful.

No, you look healthy. Yeah, you look beautiful.

No, you look healthy. Yeah, you look beautiful.

Oh, bless you.

So, when I look at you, physically, you're, like, a medium build.

So, when I look at you, physically, you're, like, a medium build.

I would've said. So that shows the pitta in you.

I would've said. So that shows the pitta in you.

And again, when I talk to you,

And again, when I talk to you,

I can feel the calmness when I interact with you.

I can feel the calmness when I interact with you.

You are a person who is shining with that kind of energy.

You are a person who is shining with that kind of energy.

So that's very beautiful about you.

So that's very beautiful about you.

I used to be always the thin, the wiry, the fast, the fun...

I used to be always the thin, the wiry, the fast, the fun...

Thin? Yes, well, lean.

Yeah, lean. Bony.

And now I've turned into Mrs Blob, Bloblet.

And now I've turned into Mrs Blob, Bloblet.

So I dunno how that happened. Dosha might have changed.

So I dunno how that happened. Dosha might have changed.

What can you do for me? I want you to make me better.

What can you do for me? I want you to make me better.

OK.

So, thought it would be a good idea to do a powder massage,

So, thought it would be a good idea to do a powder massage,

because that reduces that sensation of sluggishness.

because that reduces that sensation of sluggishness.

because that reduces that sensation of sluggishness.

How wonderful.

And what a beautiful house this looks.

And what a beautiful house this looks.

Thank you. This looks Himalayan.

Thank you. This looks Himalayan.

Please come this way.

So, there is a special treatment going on here.

So, there is a special treatment going on here.

JOANNA GASPS

So this is called Shirodhara.

So this is called Shirodhara.

This is oil dripping therapy.

This is oil dripping therapy.

Helps you to calm down this vata, the imbalance.

Helps you to calm down this vata, the imbalance.

Lovely, like a little cradle swinging just gently, gently.

Lovely, like a little cradle swinging just gently, gently.

Exactly.

It won't be quite the same at home with my baby oil

It won't be quite the same at home with my baby oil

and doing it like this. DR JYOTSNA LAUGHS

It's mesmerically calming just to watch it.

It's mesmerically calming just to watch it.

So they will be doing

a very gentle powder massage on your arm.

a very gentle powder massage on your arm.

a very gentle powder massage on your arm.

How do you feel?

It feels like sand. Ah.

It feels like sand. Ah.

It's rather like being at the seaside

when you're getting the sand off your feet.

It helps to feel more energetic.

It helps to feel more energetic.

Oh, wonderful.

I want to have this written into my contracts now.

I want to have this written into my contracts now.

I'd like to lie down at least once a day

and be rubbed with spices.

and be rubbed with spices.

I'm taking a moment to reflect,

and to apologise to the lady who had the oil dripping

and to apologise to the lady who had the oil dripping

and to apologise to the lady who had the oil dripping

for gate-crashing her treatment.

We both feel invigorated and beautifully serene.

We both feel invigorated and beautifully serene.

CAR HORNS HONKING

But my quest to learn about the history of spices must continue.

But my quest to learn about the history of spices must continue.

But my quest to learn about the history of spices must continue.

I'm back over the water in Mattancherry, Kochi's old town,

I'm back over the water in Mattancherry, Kochi's old town,

where lots of colonial-era buildings are still intact.

where lots of colonial-era buildings are still intact.

This old spice-processing and wholesalers' market

This old spice-processing and wholesalers' market

was built in the early 1700s and is still in operation.

was built in the early 1700s and is still in operation.

was built in the early 1700s and is still in operation.

One of India's main spice exports now is ginger.

One of India's main spice exports now is ginger.

One of India's main spice exports now is ginger.

It's coated in a lime solution

and dried in the sun in the courtyard.

These skilled local women are sorting the big bits for export

These skilled local women are sorting the big bits for export

from the smaller bits that will be ground into powder.

from the smaller bits that will be ground into powder.

Namaste, ladies. Hello.

Namaste, ladies. Hello.

'Brimming with Ayurvedic energy and zest,

'Brimming with Ayurvedic energy and zest,

'I'm keen to get at the helm myself.'

'I'm keen to get at the helm myself.'

JOANNA LAUGHS

So this way. One, two, two, three.

So this way. One, two, two, three.

So already, as you can see, production line is slowing.

So already, as you can see, production line is slowing.

LAUGHTER

LAUGHTER

And then once like that. And then... And then biff.

And then once like that. And then... And then biff.

And then once like that. And then... And then biff.

As impressive as that was,

they clearly want it straight back off me.

And I've got a train to catch.

And I've got a train to catch.

It's just a short tuk-tuk ride to the station.

It's just a short tuk-tuk ride to the station.

What is your name? My name Habib.

Habib, I'm Joanna.

Nice to meet you, ma'am. Thank you.

Do you come from Kochi?

I come Kochi, I born Kochi. Ah-huh.

I come Kochi, I born Kochi. Ah-huh.

My grandfather stay in Kochi.

Well. Oh, yeah.

Do you singing the older songs, you like?

Do you singing the older songs, you like?

I love them. Do you sing? Pick a song, one song?

I love them. Do you sing? Pick a song, one song?

Yes, please! OK.

SINGS IN OWN LANGUAGE

SINGS IN OWN LANGUAGE

I love looking out of train windows

I love looking out of train windows

into people's lives, their back gardens,

into people's lives, their back gardens,

and sometimes glimpses into their houses.

And you see here temples and little areas swept clean.

And you see here temples and little areas swept clean.

And you see here temples and little areas swept clean.

Such a water-centred community,

Such a water-centred community,

you adapt to live your life around it.

And so, obviously, paddy fields.

Obviously growing a lot of rice around here.

Almost every household has a cow under a tree for milk.

Almost every household has a cow under a tree for milk.

So it's rural living, absolutely beautiful.

So it's rural living, absolutely beautiful.

The jewel in Kerala's crown

is an area where lakes and rivers connect

is an area where lakes and rivers connect

with countless smaller canals and river islands

with countless smaller canals and river islands

- the backwaters.

Lined along the water's edge here are dozens of houseboats.

Lined along the water's edge here are dozens of houseboats.

The one I'm staying on is made in the old traditional style,

The one I'm staying on is made in the old traditional style,

using palm wood and bamboo.

using palm wood and bamboo.

They were originally used by old spice traders,

They were originally used by old spice traders,

who needed to live on their boats

during the long journeys to the markets.

during the long journeys to the markets.

In recent years,

they've been repurposed as a tourist experience,

they've been repurposed as a tourist experience,

and you can see why.

Cruising on these boats is simply enchanting.

Cruising on these boats is simply enchanting.

And I've got a whole one to myself to watch the sun go down.

And I've got a whole one to myself to watch the sun go down.

And I've got a whole one to myself to watch the sun go down.

MUSIC: 'Heleh' by Mina Fatemi & Michael Tedstone

MUSIC: 'Heleh' by Mina Fatemi & Michael Tedstone

And this is me.

No. Just me, guys. Thank you. Good night.

No. Just me, guys. Thank you. Good night.

On the last morning of my Indian spice trail,

On the last morning of my Indian spice trail,

I'm leaving the luxury of a houseboat

I'm leaving the luxury of a houseboat

to see how people live

in the more remote canals of the backwaters.

in the more remote canals of the backwaters.

You have to get into a slightly smaller boat

and then maybe even a smaller boat.

I might even end up by doggy paddling around the edge.

I might even end up by doggy paddling around the edge.

I just want to see what it's like living and working on these rivers.

I just want to see what it's like living and working on these rivers.

The people who live here, it's just homes,

The people who live here, it's just homes,

everything they do every day.

It's completely normal to have tumbling flowers

It's completely normal to have tumbling flowers

going right down into a river and coconuts growing like this.

going right down into a river and coconuts growing like this.

I might just go small-small here,

because I just might just go down to here

because I just might just go down to here

because you can become a bit boastful

because you can become a bit boastful

and think you could do it, and you couldn't.

There we are. Getting onto my smaller small boat.

There we are. Getting onto my smaller small boat.

'As the canals become narrower,

'the scenery becomes even more stunning.

'the scenery becomes even more stunning.

'And the water lilies unfurl to salute the morning sun.'

'And the water lilies unfurl to salute the morning sun.'

Honestly, you can't believe that's real, it looks so perfect.

Honestly, you can't believe that's real, it looks so perfect.

Sanjay has pointed me in the direction of a lovely family.

Sanjay has pointed me in the direction of a lovely family.

Mayar and her husband, Biju,

Mayar and her husband, Biju,

own a few acres of paddy fields on their land

own a few acres of paddy fields on their land

and are at the heart of their canal-side community.

and are at the heart of their canal-side community.

Namaste. Namaste. Good to see you. Hello, honey.

Namaste. Namaste. Good to see you. Hello, honey.

'I've arrived really early, so I try and make myself useful...'

'I've arrived really early, so I try and make myself useful...'

Oh, lovely school uniform. You look beautiful, darling.

Oh, lovely school uniform. You look beautiful, darling.

'..by offering to help get their daughters

'Chillian and Amrita ready for school.'

'Chillian and Amrita ready for school.'

You must shout if I hurt or pull.

You must shout if I hurt or pull.

At school, if they say, "Your hair looks a mess, child,"

At school, if they say, "Your hair looks a mess, child,"

you can say,

"This ghastly woman suddenly came into the house

"This ghastly woman suddenly came into the house

"and seized me by the head."

It's not brilliant, but it'll do, darling. It'll do.

It's not brilliant, but it'll do, darling. It'll do.

'I think a little relieved

'that her daughters look just about passable,

'that her daughters look just about passable,

'Mayar has invited me on the school run,

'Mayar has invited me on the school run,

'and around here, that's, of course, by another boat.'

'and around here, that's, of course, by another boat.'

As school commutes go, this one's pretty special.

As school commutes go, this one's pretty special.

And after Mayar has picked up a few essentials

from a floating convenience store, all that's left to do

from a floating convenience store, all that's left to do

is to navigate the copious amount of ducks en route.

is to navigate the copious amount of ducks en route.

is to navigate the copious amount of ducks en route.

We drop off the kids

to walk the last little bit of their journey.

to walk the last little bit of their journey.

Oh, it's so hard to leave these canal-side communities,

Oh, it's so hard to leave these canal-side communities,

their charming way of life, so close to nature...

their charming way of life, so close to nature...

..and the magical houseboats inspired by the old spice traders.

..and the magical houseboats inspired by the old spice traders.

..and the magical houseboats inspired by the old spice traders.

But I must travel on.

I'm leaving my beloved India,

but there are many more mysteries to uncover on the spice trail.

but there are many more mysteries to uncover on the spice trail.

But now I'm turning my eyes

towards an intriguing island in the southwest.

towards an intriguing island in the southwest.

'On the next leg of my Spice Trail Adventure...'

'On the next leg of my Spice Trail Adventure...'

Je prends un...

'..I dust off my French

'when I sail across the Indian Ocean...'

'when I sail across the Indian Ocean...'

THEY SING IN OWN LANGUAGE

'..to the sweet-sounding lands of Madagascar,

'..to the sweet-sounding lands of Madagascar,

'on a bumpy...'

Got to avoid the pothole if you can.

'..300-mile road trip...

'..unearthing the world's most popular spice...'

'..unearthing the world's most popular spice...'

Welcome to my vanilla plantation. Wow!

Welcome to my vanilla plantation. Wow!

'..and onwards to the exotic island of Zanzibar,

'..and onwards to the exotic island of Zanzibar,

'before a trek towards the crossroads of Asia and Europe

'before a trek towards the crossroads of Asia and Europe

'before a trek towards the crossroads of Asia and Europe

'takes me to the ancient city of Petra.'

'takes me to the ancient city of Petra.'

Join me on this Spice Trail Adventure.

Join me on this Spice Trail Adventure.

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