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♪ ♪
Grand Teton National Park is locked in snow and ice.
♪ ♪
The perfect playground for otters.
♪ ♪
It may look fun...
(chattering)
...but this family is here on serious business.
They need to find access to open water...
♪ ♪
...and the fish below.
♪ ♪
The Snake River provides an important protein source
during the winter months.
♪ ♪
Cutthroat trout.
Catching them is easy.
Keeping them is the hard part.
♪ ♪
Sneaky scavengers try their luck.
It's a constant dance for resources
in Grand Teton National Park.
♪ ♪
Shrouded by a veil of white,
winter dazzles.
♪ ♪
Oxbow Bend,
an iconic part of the Snake River,
rarely freezes entirely.
♪ ♪
It's a favorite denning and feeding spot
for the otter family.
But they're not the only ones that come here to hunt.
In the right conditions,
coyotes can sniff out food up to a mile away.
♪ ♪
An otter makes a tasty treat.
Coyotes may be wily...
...but these otters are one step ahead.
They bust out the back door...
and the coyote goes hungry today.
When the coast is clear,
it's back to business.
♪ ♪
Above or below water,
their fur keeps them toasty in the iciest conditions.
♪ ♪
Rolling in snow keeps it warm and waterproof.
♪ ♪
Grand Teton is the perfect place
for otters to keep in top condition.
♪ ♪
It snows here for over six months a year.
For the otters, it's "snow" problem.
There's plenty to go around.
♪ ♪
Grand Teton National Park
is a 310,000-acre winter wonderland.
♪ ♪
The park is named for Grand Teton,
a proud ice maiden
whose snowcapped peaks stand at nearly 14,000 feet.
♪ ♪
The Teton Range is the reason this park
spends over half the year buried in snow.
♪ ♪
Water evaporates from the Pacific Ocean,
traveling uninterrupted across low level plains
until clouds come crashing into Teton's giant peaks,
where they release epic snowfall.
More than 40 feet can dump here in just one season.
(grumbling)
It's this volume of snow
that makes Grand Teton National Park so special.
♪ ♪
This red fox
is perfectly suited to life in the white stuff.
Taking a canine catnap out in the open,
she uses her bushy tail as a portable blanket,
sleeping like this,
even during the coldest winter nights.
♪ ♪
Today the sun is shining,
and a vole enjoys a spring stroll.
♪ ♪
It doesn't go unnoticed.
♪ ♪
The vole seeks refuge
in a network of underground tunnels.
♪ ♪
But out of sight is not out of mind.
♪ ♪
The fox's hearing is her ultimate weapon.
♪ ♪
Tilting her head from side to side,
she zones in on the target.
♪ ♪
No luck this time.
But Grand Teton provides perfect mousing conditions.
♪ ♪
Bingo!
For the other residents, it's not so straightforward.
♪ ♪
Some are skating on thin ice.
(crack)
(bear groans)
♪ ♪
Cold paws are a small price to pay
for his first taste of fresh water since last year.
♪ ♪
Finding food is the next priority.
(groaning)
And hungry grizzlies are waking up all over the park...
(grumbling)
...including this new mom,
who hasn't eaten in over six months.
(growling)
This multi-tasking mom gave birth in her den...
(snorting)
...and has been nursing these two hungry mouths
for three months.
♪ ♪
All without eating or drinking anything herself.
♪ ♪
It's cost her a third of her body weight.
She needs to find food fast.
Easier said than done with these two in tow.
(grumbling)
♪ ♪
Her rich milk has filled them with energy...
and now she's running on empty.
(squealing)
The cubs are naive to the plight of their hungry mom.
But it's not all fun and games.
(growling)
Male grizzlies emerged from the den two months ago,
gaining a head start on the hunt for food.
(bird calling)
They will kill young cubs for a better chance of mating.
Mom does her best to avoid them.
The cubs are none the wiser.
So focused on exploring,
they drift off from Mom...
who's busy searching for spring shoots.
♪ ♪
As they wander further away,
they head straight into trouble.
Male grizzlies aren't the only danger.
The weather here can turn on a dime.
It's their very first spring,
and they have no idea how easy it is to get lost
in a Grand Teton blizzard.
♪ ♪
The cubs are completely alone.
(sniffing)
Mom's senses go into overdrive.
♪ ♪
It's the first time the family has been apart.
♪ ♪
She searches on.
Their chance of surviving without her
is virtually zero.
♪ ♪
(squawking)
♪ ♪
But then the cubs spot her through the snow.
♪ ♪
Thankfully, there's no harm done...
and hopefully a lesson learned.
♪ ♪
Mom can nurse her cubs for up to two years.
During that time, she'll teach them
everything there is to know about this wilderness.
Their personal tour guide...
in Grand Teton National Park.
(cub moaning)
As the spring thaw begins,
treasures will soon be revealed.
(dripping)
(birds chirping)
♪ ♪
Every year, the warming temperatures
trigger the snow and ice to melt.
Perhaps the single biggest event
on the Grand Teton calendar.
It's also the signal for both wildlife and people
to return to these lands.
Hunter-gatherers came to the Grand Teton region
at least 11,000 years ago.
Their pattern of leaving this land during the winter months
and returning to reap the bounty of summer
has been followed by the Shoshone, Nez Perce,
Gros Ventre, Blackfoot, and Crow tribes, among others,
for thousands of years.
♪ ♪
But the Jackson elk herd
have been doing this for even longer.
(bugling)
Their migration is driven by the retreating snowline,
revealing the greening grasses beneath.
The elk might arrive in April one year
and July the next,
depending on the timing of the snowmelt.
The process releases millions of gallons of water,
gushing down the mountains,
where it feeds the swelling Snake River,
a source of life,
providing fresh water to both plants and animals...
♪ ♪
...including a gathering of fine spotted cutthroat trout,
found in these waters and nowhere else in America.
Each year they gather here in large numbers to breed.
This female, known as a hen,
is getting ready for just that.
She digs a nest, called a redd,
turning on her side and flexing her body in the process.
This attracts the attention of the males,
who chase each other off
and vie for top spot.
♪ ♪
The process of digging and chasing can last days.
♪ ♪
Finally, when the water reaches the right temperature,
she releases up to 4,000 eggs...
...triggering a mad dash
in the battle to fertilize them first.
♪ ♪
The hen keeps her eggs safe,
burying them under gravel.
(pebbles rattling)
For this new generation of trout,
survival began months earlier
in the snowy mountain slopes of the park.
Larger snowpack years
translate into huge quantities of melting water.
This water flushes away the fine sediments
and provides an oxygen boost in the process.
The result?
An improved spawning habitat for the trout
and ultimately, better fishing in the years to come.
♪ ♪
Good news for the thousands of visitors...
who come to the park each year to fish.
♪ ♪
The snowmelt creates pristine river conditions
for another creature to thrive.
The pilose crayfish.
♪ ♪
Living between the logs brought here by the beaver,
their hard work has provided him with a home
and a hiding place from predators.
This premium spot attracts the attention of a male rival.
Raising his claws, he tries to scare off the intruder,
who responds defiantly by raising his own.
What we have here is a showdown.
But crayfish are adept in the art of bluffing.
Some grow large claws
that are actually weaker in pinching power,
so bigger is not always better.
There's only one way to find out.
♪ ♪
The big guy wasn't bluffing after all.
The battle wasn't in vain.
Crayfish are clever.
They recognize and remember the face of rivals.
If this intruder tries again, he will be remembered.
His opponent retreats.
The winner holds on to this perfect spot.
♪ ♪
The Snake River flows all year round...
thanks to some friends in high places.
♪ ♪
Whitebark pine,
the rooftop of Grand Teton,
plays a leading role in helping this ecosystem thrive.
♪ ♪
By capturing snowdrifts and creating shade,
they slow the melting snow,
which feeds the Snake River and surrounding wetlands
well into summer.
(water rushing)
When the blanket of snow has been lifted,
the diverse range of habitats
that make up Grand Teton National Park
are finally revealed.
♪ ♪
The mountains stand like watchful guardians
over the rich landscape below.
This unique blend of habitats
catches a special eye.
(humming)
Hummingbirds travel all the way from Mexico,
nearly 2,000 miles away,
for the perfect breeding grounds,
found here in Grand Teton National Park.
The males normally arrive first and establish their territory,
which they defend from rivals.
It's a spot worth fighting for...
(humming)
...filled with nectar-rich flowers,
which means a better chance of attracting a mate.
♪ ♪
This female won't just pair up with anyone.
She considers how much food is available
in her suitor's territory.
Plentiful food sources are essential.
Hummingbirds eat up to twelve times their own body weight
in nectar daily.
♪ ♪
They collect pollen while feasting on the sugary nectar.
And with each new meal,
the birds pollinate the park's blooms,
ensuring a future flower feast for all.
♪ ♪
Hummingbirds time their arrival
with the park's earliest blooming flowers...
...traveling thousands of miles every year
to make the most of Grand Teton's summer bounty.
But confined to the alpine slopes,
spending their whole lives
in just a few square miles of the park,
is one animal whose life depends on a summer of plenty.
Only the toughest, bravest,
some might say downright craziest of animals
live up here in this windswept no-man's-land.
(chirp)
Small but mighty.
(chirp)
Blink, and you'll miss it.
An American pika.
She may look like a tan potato-sized furball,
but this rabbit relative is tough as nails.
At around 10,000 feet,
the treeless slopes of the Teton mountain range
are one of the most inhospitable places
to live in the park.
But this pile of rubble, known as talus,
is prime pika real estate.
Formed from chunks of rock
that fell off the top of the Teton mountains
it contains some of the oldest rocks
in North America.
(chirp)
To her, it's home.
She hunkered down here during winter,
patiently waiting for the snow to melt.
♪ ♪
Now summer's here,
and it's time to get to work.
♪ ♪
She gathers her favorite grasses and wildflowers.
As the saying goes,
"Make hay while the sun shines."
And that's exactly what she's doing.
She works for hundreds of hours across the short summer months,
gathering foliage to be dried and stored over winter as hay.
And when you're this focused on the task at hand,
it's easy to miss the lone predators
who lurk up here.
♪ ♪
(calling)
But there is safety in numbers.
(calling)
This neighborhood watch
is the secret to surviving up here,
enabling each pika to maximize haymaking time.
♪ ♪
The summers are fleeting in Grand Teton National Park,
and even shorter up high in the alpine zone.
(bear groans)
In the forest,
mama bear is teaching her cubs the next valuable lesson--
dining out.
She knows how to find food
in almost every habitat within the park.
Her powerful nose,
2,000 times more sensitive than a human's,
has detected dinner.
Ants,
a protein rich treat.
She extracts them easily, using long finger-like claws.
♪ ♪
Her cubs give it a try...
♪ ♪
...but they don't quite have the knack yet.
They learn first-hand
not to bite off more than they can chew.
♪ ♪
On the Snake River,
biting and chewing is no problem
for a beaver feasting on Grand Teton's bounty of trees.
The Snake River is a lifeline for wildlife,
not only in the park
but across regions of the western states.
Its protection here is crucial for a whole host of animals...
(low growling)
...including arguably the most famous bear in North America.
♪ ♪
Meet 399.
♪ ♪
This is no ordinary bear.
At 26 years old,
she's the grandmother of Grand Teton.
It's the height of summer,
and, lucky for her cubs,
this veteran knows the best place
for a refreshing dip.
♪ ♪
It's rare to have four cubs...
(growling)
...and totally unique to have four at her age.
Dubbed "Queen of the Tetons" by her many fans,
this bear is famed for having at least 22 descendants.
She's a big part of the grizzly bear success story
in Grand Teton National Park.
They enjoy protection and thrive
because of the varied food sources and habitats.
(growling)
Numbers have increased from 136
to over 700 bears in this region
since the mid-1970s.
♪ ♪
One of the secrets to the bears' success
is to eat all summer long.
This mama and her cubs
need to gain enough weight to hibernate.
Grass may seem like a surprising meal for a bear,
but summer's the perfect time
for grazing the Grand Teton meadows.
♪ ♪
There are over 100 species of grass here,
found in every single habitat,
and animals throughout Grand Teton depend on them.
♪ ♪
The name of the Shoshone tribe,
who were among the early guardians of Grand Teton,
comes from sosoni,
a type of high-growing grass.
♪ ♪
As summer draws to a close,
399 will show her cubs new food sources,
making the most of the entire park.
She may be Queen of the Tetons,
but she knows how to eat like a king.
Apart from winter,
seasons don't last long in Grand Teton National Park.
As the air turns crisp,
a certain magic takes hold of the landscape.
(geese honking)
♪ ♪
But there's more to this explosion of color
than meets the eye.
Green leaves are the trees' food making factories.
All summer long,
chlorophyll converts energy from the sun
into sugars to feed the tree.
As the days shorten and the temperature drops,
the leaves stop their food-making process.
The green chlorophyll breaks down...
♪ ♪
...revealing the yellows and oranges beneath.
What we know as a spectacular show of color
is actually nature's most beautiful display of death.
It's less of a trash disposal
and more of a recycling project.
As the leaves change color,
the vital nutrients are broken down
and sent to other parts of the tree,
where they are stored for a spring rebirth.
♪ ♪
The fall colors bring tourists to the park in droves.
This is arguably the best time of the year
to capture its famous views.
♪ ♪
But something else
is bringing visitors from all over the world
to Grand Teton.
Something that can't be captured in a photo.
As fall colors peak,
a mysterious sound fills the air.
(bugling)
(echoing)
(bugling)
A bull elk...
(bugling)
...bugling for his future.
And it's not just one.
(bugling)
Every bull wanting to mate needs to put on a performance.
(bugling)
Some bulls bugle so much,
they lose their voices.
(bugling)
It's an essential part
of their annual mating ritual
and the language of love for these females.
♪ ♪
This master bull has bugled his way
into the hearts of a harem.
Now he has to keep their interest
until they're ready to mate.
Easier said than done
when you're threatened by rivals in all directions.
(distant bugling)
Fail now,
and he'll forfeit his mating rights
and his future.
♪ ♪
He has to prove his worth.
This could be their very last night together.
(bugling)
His serenade turns silent.
This bugle is different.
It's a call to battle.
(bugling)
♪ ♪
Dawn brings a new day to the park...
(distant bugling)
...and fresh hope to the challengers.
(birds chirping)
The master bull hangs on as other bulls gather.
(bugling)
But this rival has sparked the interest of a female.
♪ ♪
The master bull needs to rally to keep his harem together.
(bugling)
♪ ♪
They're nearing estrus,
a fertile window of only 12 hours.
♪ ♪
If he loses them now,
mating rights pass to this Romeo.
♪ ♪
Her loyalty lies with the master bull...
(bugling)
...for now.
(bugling)
But dissenting voices are getting louder.
The tensions reach fever pitch.
(bugling)
The battle of the bugles is over.
The rut is on.
♪ ♪
2,000 pounds of flesh,
locked in a battle of strength and determination.
♪ ♪
The rival flees,
with nothing more than a wounded ego.
The winner takes the ultimate prize.
It will be his offspring
roaming Grand Teton National Park.
After mating,
the lucky guy will resume a solitary existence.
The park provides everything he needs
to recharge and refuel...
(snorting)
...as the grip of winter is just around the corner.
(bugling)
He's not the only one getting ready.
♪ ♪
A Clark's nutcracker
harvesting seeds from whitebark pinecones.
♪ ♪
A special pouch under his tongue
stores up to 150 seeds at a time,
to be buried all over the park--
an insurance policy for leaner times ahead.
♪ ♪
Squirrels cache this tasty treat, too.
But thieving bears can quickly ruin a hard day's work.
♪ ♪
(chattering)
At over 50% fat,
whitebark pine seeds are the perfect food
to fatten up for the winter,
and in Grand Teton National Park...
...seasons change in an instant.
(bird chirping)
♪ ♪
Soon, the rich treasures of this park
will be buried once again.
♪ ♪
The first snowfall is a signal
to North America's largest elk herd to move...
now.
The Snake River at dawn.
The early snows have not yet settled,
but soon this water will begin to freeze over.
And this female knows better than to stick around.
♪ ♪
With the rut over,
she's resumed leadership of the herd.
♪ ♪
The master bull hangs back,
His job is done.
(bugling)
The pregnant females now face their biggest challenge yet.
She knows they need to migrate south,
or risk starving to death.
♪ ♪
It's a journey she has taken every year since she was born.
Now she shows her young calf the way
for the very first time.
♪ ♪
The herd sticks together,
taking comfort from each successful stride
their companions make.
♪ ♪
The water is shallow and slow-flowing
at this time of year;
the gushing torrents of the spring melt,
a distant memory.
♪ ♪
The Shoshone people left these lands every winter.
And just as generations of elk had trodden their path before,
their unborn calves will follow this migration
for years to come.
Their departure is a chance for Grand Teton to replenish.
When they return in spring,
the park's protection will provide safe calving grounds
and bountiful food for the next generation.
(otters chattering)
As winter takes hold,
some opt to stay
and make the best of things.
♪ ♪
Temperatures drop,
and stretches of the Snake River
are starting to freeze.
♪ ♪
The otter family needs open water
to keep them fed through winter.
♪ ♪
Blessed with an insatiable curiosity,
they are intrepid explorers.
Even when this water eventually freezes over,
they won't give up the search.
They are entirely dependent on the Snake River
for the duration of winter.
♪ ♪
And as long as you know where to look,
the park will provide.
♪ ♪
♪ ♪
Grand Teton National Park
will now sit under snow for six months.
Knowledge is crucial to surviving here.
399 may be a senior citizen,
but this wise old bear knows the secret to success
in this wintery wilderness.
As she heads into hibernation,
this could be the last time
she looks upon the land she knows so well.
No one knows how many more winters she'll see.
♪ ♪
But one thing is certain--
her knowledge of this land
will live on through her many descendants.
♪ ♪
In return,
Grand Teton National Park
will provide for each and every one of them,
just as its done
for the generations of people, plants, and animals
before them.
♪ ♪
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