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Just off the east coast of
Australia lies a miracle of an
island, one built entirely on sand.
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00:00:17,495 --> 00:00:19,019
But somehow it has become
a magnet for life.
3
00:00:24,589 --> 00:00:26,635
Ocean giants, peaceful and
playful, grace its waterways,
4
00:00:30,073 --> 00:00:31,248
pursued by not-so-gentle giants.
5
00:00:35,557 --> 00:00:36,688
Great rainforests, acid swamps,
6
00:00:39,474 --> 00:00:42,477
and improbably lakes
conceal devious killers
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00:00:42,477 --> 00:00:44,000
that fight to outwit
and devour the weak...
8
00:00:46,655 --> 00:00:47,047
and each other.
9
00:00:50,572 --> 00:00:51,790
It's a tough place to be
top dog.
10
00:00:56,969 --> 00:00:57,753
A restless battleground
11
00:01:01,017 --> 00:01:02,801
where life holds on
against all odds
12
00:01:02,801 --> 00:01:04,107
on this great island
of shifting sands.
13
00:01:05,500 --> 00:01:05,848
Fraser Island.
14
00:01:08,807 --> 00:01:09,112
[♪]
15
00:01:25,433 --> 00:01:26,695
It's spring, and
the humpback whales
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00:01:29,001 --> 00:01:29,872
of the southern hemisphere
17
00:01:32,614 --> 00:01:35,921
are on the southbound leg
of an annual 3,000-mile journey
18
00:01:35,921 --> 00:01:38,054
from their breeding grounds
inside the Great Barrier Reef
19
00:01:40,012 --> 00:01:41,927
to the rich feeding grounds
of cold Antarctic waters.
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00:01:50,066 --> 00:01:51,763
En route, many mothers and
their newborn babies
21
00:01:54,244 --> 00:01:55,854
take a little side trip
to a favourite site:
22
00:01:58,030 --> 00:01:59,249
the sheltered waters
of Fraser Island.
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00:02:05,864 --> 00:02:09,129
Platypus Bay between the island
and the mainland
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00:02:09,129 --> 00:02:10,826
is a perfect spot for
the little ones to nurse
25
00:02:12,654 --> 00:02:14,177
and grow strong for
the epic journey ahead...
26
00:02:15,787 --> 00:02:16,527
and to have a little fun.
27
00:02:30,541 --> 00:02:30,846
[♪]
28
00:02:42,597 --> 00:02:42,901
[♪]
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00:02:55,436 --> 00:02:57,916
The bay is too shallow for the
males that sometimes escort them
30
00:02:59,701 --> 00:03:01,268
to attempt their courting
and mating rituals,
31
00:03:03,487 --> 00:03:04,749
so mother and calf
can bond in peace.
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00:03:07,056 --> 00:03:08,449
Suckling on her mother's
fat-rich milk,
33
00:03:10,842 --> 00:03:13,105
this young calf will nearly
double her birth weight
34
00:03:13,105 --> 00:03:13,715
in a matter of weeks.
35
00:03:16,152 --> 00:03:17,240
Her mother, however, won't eat,
36
00:03:18,937 --> 00:03:20,069
and will lose a third
of her weight
37
00:03:21,418 --> 00:03:22,245
on the southward migration.
38
00:03:27,424 --> 00:03:28,469
Whales send messages
to each other
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00:03:31,385 --> 00:03:33,082
by slapping the water with
their fins and tails.
40
00:03:35,693 --> 00:03:37,826
Tail-slapping may be a form of
short-range communication.
41
00:03:39,958 --> 00:03:41,873
They employ vocalizations
for long-distance calls.
42
00:03:45,573 --> 00:03:46,138
Out in deeper water,
43
00:03:50,055 --> 00:03:51,666
the males sing their haunting
songs as they continue south,
44
00:03:51,666 --> 00:03:52,754
whereas the females
remain silent.
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00:03:55,191 --> 00:03:56,366
The complex songs are particular
46
00:03:59,021 --> 00:04:01,806
to this East Australian population.
47
00:04:01,806 --> 00:04:04,069
They can last hours and be heard
hundreds of miles away.
48
00:04:15,124 --> 00:04:17,169
After a five-day sojourn
in the bay, it's time to go.
49
00:04:21,478 --> 00:04:23,263
The calf will travel in
her mother's slipstream
50
00:04:24,742 --> 00:04:25,265
to ease her journey.
51
00:04:36,885 --> 00:04:39,104
The mother and her calf head
north and east out of the bay,
52
00:04:40,497 --> 00:04:42,020
slipping around the tip
of Fraser Island
53
00:04:43,805 --> 00:04:46,764
and heading south against
the prevailing currents.
54
00:04:46,764 --> 00:04:48,418
Fraser Island, just one mile
from the mainland,
55
00:04:50,725 --> 00:04:52,596
lies at the southern tip of
the Great Barrier Reef.
56
00:05:00,735 --> 00:05:02,693
Its creation began hundreds
of thousands of years ago,
57
00:05:05,000 --> 00:05:06,262
as mainland rivers
carried sediment
58
00:05:08,830 --> 00:05:11,659
from Australia's east coast
into the ocean.
59
00:05:11,659 --> 00:05:13,138
Currents swept billions
of tonnes of sand
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00:05:15,097 --> 00:05:15,576
up along the coast,
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00:05:20,145 --> 00:05:22,322
where rocky outcrops forced
the ocean to drop its payload.
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00:05:24,976 --> 00:05:27,370
Eventually, an enormous island
of sand rose out of this earth.
63
00:05:31,069 --> 00:05:32,854
Today, Fraser is 75 miles long
and 14 miles wide,
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00:05:37,641 --> 00:05:39,077
and some of its dunes
tower 780 feet high.
65
00:05:42,516 --> 00:05:44,387
The Aboriginal people call it
K'gari, or "paradise".
66
00:05:53,178 --> 00:05:55,224
More than 15,000 years ago,
when sea levels were lower,
67
00:05:57,661 --> 00:05:59,446
Platypus Bay would have
been an exposed sand flat
68
00:06:01,361 --> 00:06:02,666
connecting the island
to the mainland.
69
00:06:05,190 --> 00:06:05,800
Across that sand flat
70
00:06:09,325 --> 00:06:11,283
came Australia's largest
surviving predator mammal:
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00:06:12,284 --> 00:06:12,720
the dingo.
72
00:06:16,637 --> 00:06:20,118
When sea levels rose again,
cutting off the island,
73
00:06:20,118 --> 00:06:22,294
its dingo population scratched
out a living in isolation.
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00:06:24,340 --> 00:06:25,341
Without possible interbreeding
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00:06:28,083 --> 00:06:30,390
with the mainland's
domestic dogs,
76
00:06:30,390 --> 00:06:32,000
Fraser Island's dingoes remain
the purest dingo population
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00:06:32,000 --> 00:06:32,348
in Australia.
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00:06:43,751 --> 00:06:45,405
While they're the top predators
on the island,
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00:06:47,624 --> 00:06:49,104
dingoes can't afford
to turn their noses up
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00:06:50,235 --> 00:06:50,888
at any source of food.
81
00:06:54,152 --> 00:06:56,067
On the east coast, a whale
whose journey south ended
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00:06:58,287 --> 00:07:00,420
almost as soon as it began
becomes a welcome opportunity.
83
00:07:08,819 --> 00:07:09,559
The dingo is not alone.
84
00:07:12,954 --> 00:07:15,086
The island's largest lizard,
the lace monitor,
85
00:07:15,086 --> 00:07:16,914
has also caught the scent
of the rotting carcass.
86
00:07:19,569 --> 00:07:20,875
It, too, is both hunter
and scavenger.
87
00:07:28,665 --> 00:07:29,797
But dingoes also hunt
lace monitors.
88
00:07:35,237 --> 00:07:37,413
So the lizard wisely decides
to look for dinner elsewhere.
89
00:07:46,640 --> 00:07:48,163
The dingo's mate joins him
at the carcass.
90
00:07:50,861 --> 00:07:52,254
They're the alpha pair
of the local pack.
91
00:08:00,088 --> 00:08:01,524
This female is suckling
a litter of pups,
92
00:08:03,657 --> 00:08:04,832
and needs to supplement
her diet
93
00:08:06,486 --> 00:08:07,443
with whatever comes her way.
94
00:08:09,837 --> 00:08:11,882
While it's a mega-meal, it's
also a tough one to unwrap.
95
00:08:19,977 --> 00:08:21,326
Until the whale hide
weakens over time,
96
00:08:23,851 --> 00:08:25,200
the dingoes focus on
the softest parts.
97
00:08:30,031 --> 00:08:31,554
While the dominant pair
are at the carcass,
98
00:08:33,861 --> 00:08:35,210
other pack members
keep their distance.
99
00:08:39,040 --> 00:08:40,650
There are dozens of
dingo packs on the island.
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00:08:42,739 --> 00:08:43,958
Each pack has about
a dozen members
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00:08:46,047 --> 00:08:47,744
and is controlled by
the alpha male and female.
102
00:08:54,316 --> 00:08:56,144
The female's pups are
entirely reliant on her milk
103
00:08:57,493 --> 00:08:57,972
for their survival.
104
00:09:01,366 --> 00:09:02,933
She makes her way inland,
deep in the forest,
105
00:09:04,718 --> 00:09:06,502
where she's hidden her
day-old pups in a log den.
106
00:09:08,809 --> 00:09:09,200
[Dingoes whining]
107
00:09:13,161 --> 00:09:15,163
Unlike domestic dogs,
dingoes breed only once a year.
108
00:09:19,341 --> 00:09:21,386
The pups won't be independent
for another seven months,
109
00:09:23,388 --> 00:09:25,303
when they'll take their place
in the pack hierarchy.
110
00:09:27,349 --> 00:09:27,654
[♪]
111
00:09:49,806 --> 00:09:52,026
Back at the coast, this
sea eagle uses its keen eyesight
112
00:09:54,028 --> 00:09:55,246
to spot prey from
up to 65 feet away.
113
00:10:03,341 --> 00:10:04,560
While he usually
prefers fishing,
114
00:10:07,955 --> 00:10:09,609
the lure of the whale carcass
is hard to resist.
115
00:10:25,929 --> 00:10:27,365
The carcass will remain
a hub of activity
116
00:10:30,064 --> 00:10:32,022
until it's picked clean or
washed back into the ocean.
117
00:10:35,591 --> 00:10:37,288
Even a whistling kite will
scavenge the carcass,
118
00:10:38,942 --> 00:10:39,856
grabbing a bite on the wing.
119
00:10:44,731 --> 00:10:45,601
Not interested in sharing,
120
00:10:48,865 --> 00:10:50,040
he takes his meal
into a nearby tree,
121
00:10:51,607 --> 00:10:52,477
away from other scavengers.
122
00:10:58,353 --> 00:11:00,616
Down below, the red-capped
plover has to keep on his toes.
123
00:11:05,926 --> 00:11:07,014
The whistling kites
prefer hunting
124
00:11:09,886 --> 00:11:11,018
and shorebirds are
a favourite prey.
125
00:11:15,370 --> 00:11:17,502
Microscopic invertebrates and
algae living in the wet sand
126
00:11:19,461 --> 00:11:20,680
supply him with all
the food he needs.
127
00:11:22,769 --> 00:11:23,639
Beachcombing is busy work,
128
00:11:27,251 --> 00:11:28,992
and he spends most of his time
foraging this way.
129
00:11:34,389 --> 00:11:35,129
Further down the beach,
130
00:11:38,306 --> 00:11:39,699
huge flocks of crested
terns congregate.
131
00:11:43,267 --> 00:11:45,182
Drawn to Fraser Island to feast
in the rich waters.
132
00:11:50,405 --> 00:11:50,710
[♪]
133
00:12:18,433 --> 00:12:19,739
The seas are relatively calm
for now,
134
00:12:22,176 --> 00:12:23,307
but this eastern edge
of the island
135
00:12:25,701 --> 00:12:26,876
takes the brunt of
prevailing winds.
136
00:12:26,876 --> 00:12:27,224
[Wind howling]
137
00:12:31,228 --> 00:12:34,449
Here, on the most hostile side
of the island,
138
00:12:34,449 --> 00:12:37,582
the pitched battle between
shifting sands and rooted plants
139
00:12:37,582 --> 00:12:38,192
continues to play out
140
00:12:41,804 --> 00:12:43,763
as it has since the days
when the island took shape.
141
00:12:48,811 --> 00:12:50,030
Without plants to anchor
the dunes,
142
00:12:52,728 --> 00:12:55,165
the sand would simply
keep marching inland,
143
00:12:55,165 --> 00:12:56,776
and this would be a
completely barren place.
144
00:13:02,869 --> 00:13:03,913
Hardy pioneer plants
like spinifex
145
00:13:05,697 --> 00:13:06,829
are the first to put down roots.
146
00:13:08,483 --> 00:13:11,007
They've evolved
extraordinary ways to cope
147
00:13:11,007 --> 00:13:13,357
with the coast's
abrasive conditions.
148
00:13:13,357 --> 00:13:16,360
Spinifex grasses have a covering
of fine, waxy hairs
149
00:13:16,360 --> 00:13:17,579
that repel the salt
and retain water.
150
00:13:21,757 --> 00:13:22,976
When mature, their
seed heads dislodge
151
00:13:25,152 --> 00:13:26,153
and are blown about the dunes,
152
00:13:28,329 --> 00:13:29,983
where they germinate and begin
their work
153
00:13:29,983 --> 00:13:31,767
turning the sand dunes
into a thriving ecosystem.
154
00:13:34,639 --> 00:13:36,816
The spinifex root systems and
creeping stems act like mesh,
155
00:13:38,426 --> 00:13:39,470
securing the sand in
place below.
156
00:13:47,391 --> 00:13:49,350
Once stable, sand dunes make
perfect nesting burrows
157
00:13:51,395 --> 00:13:52,222
for the rainbow bee-eater.
158
00:13:59,403 --> 00:14:00,665
Masterful hunters,
rainbow bee-eaters
159
00:14:03,233 --> 00:14:04,626
acrobatically catch
insects on the wing.
160
00:14:12,112 --> 00:14:13,026
This pair has mated for life,
161
00:14:16,638 --> 00:14:19,075
and return to the island every
spring for the breeding season.
162
00:14:24,080 --> 00:14:25,429
This means picking a
very stable dune
163
00:14:27,997 --> 00:14:29,869
and excavating a three-foot-long
tunnel into it.
164
00:14:35,135 --> 00:14:36,397
The female does most
of the digging.
165
00:14:40,096 --> 00:14:41,358
These two are such old hands at this
166
00:14:44,100 --> 00:14:46,233
that their burrow
from last year is still intact,
167
00:14:46,233 --> 00:14:47,495
which will save them
a lot of trouble.
168
00:14:50,977 --> 00:14:52,065
All it needs is a
little renovation
169
00:14:54,763 --> 00:14:56,765
and their nursery will be
snug and ready
170
00:14:56,765 --> 00:14:57,418
to welcome their eggs.
171
00:15:05,426 --> 00:15:07,341
The lace monitor, rebuffed
from the whale carcass,
172
00:15:09,473 --> 00:15:12,520
has travelled down the beach
in search of a meal
173
00:15:12,520 --> 00:15:13,913
that he can really get
his mouth around:
174
00:15:17,046 --> 00:15:17,481
bird eggs.
175
00:15:21,398 --> 00:15:23,357
He haunts the dunes looking
for failed architecture.
176
00:15:29,667 --> 00:15:30,930
High tides and winds
can dislodge eggs
177
00:15:32,975 --> 00:15:33,758
from poorly placed nests.
178
00:15:50,819 --> 00:15:51,907
The monitor reaps
the benefits...
179
00:15:58,435 --> 00:16:00,046
and one pair of bee-eaters
helplessly watches
180
00:16:01,961 --> 00:16:02,962
its next generation disappear.
181
00:16:08,924 --> 00:16:09,751
The experienced bee-eaters,
182
00:16:12,841 --> 00:16:15,235
with their deep and stable
nesting site, have less to fear.
183
00:16:15,235 --> 00:16:16,497
Their eggs will hatch
deep out of reach
184
00:16:18,978 --> 00:16:20,501
of even the most
determined lace monitors.
185
00:16:25,767 --> 00:16:26,115
[Wind howling]
186
00:16:31,816 --> 00:16:33,862
But not all the dunes on
the east coast can be tamed.
187
00:16:38,127 --> 00:16:39,955
The assault of wind and sand
that build the island
188
00:16:42,044 --> 00:16:44,003
still creates dunes that
relentlessly march inland,
189
00:16:48,007 --> 00:16:49,356
blown by powerful prevailing easterlies,
190
00:16:53,273 --> 00:16:54,622
the dunes align
with the onshore winds
191
00:16:56,885 --> 00:16:58,017
that drive them and form ridges.
192
00:17:02,282 --> 00:17:03,674
Over time, they assume
massive U-shapes
193
00:17:05,720 --> 00:17:06,460
known as parabolic dunes.
194
00:17:11,378 --> 00:17:12,727
Lakes often form in
the sheltered swoops
195
00:17:14,772 --> 00:17:15,773
between these windblown dunes.
196
00:17:20,561 --> 00:17:21,736
One of the liveliest
is Lake Wabby.
197
00:17:26,480 --> 00:17:28,134
At 39 feet, it's the
deepest lake on the island
198
00:17:31,224 --> 00:17:32,834
and unlike some of the island's
other lakes,
199
00:17:34,792 --> 00:17:35,663
its emerald waters
are fresh,
200
00:17:37,882 --> 00:17:39,101
harbouring catfish
and rainbowfish,
201
00:17:41,016 --> 00:17:42,235
irresistible to the
local waterfowl.
202
00:17:53,028 --> 00:17:54,160
Cormorants frequent Lake Wabby,
203
00:17:57,076 --> 00:17:58,207
dipping and diving
for their supper.
204
00:18:03,125 --> 00:18:05,301
Unlike many diving birds, their
wings do not produce oils
205
00:18:07,129 --> 00:18:07,956
to make them waterproof.
206
00:18:13,701 --> 00:18:15,572
Instead, their feathers have
microscopic structures
207
00:18:17,226 --> 00:18:17,618
that repel water,
208
00:18:21,535 --> 00:18:23,319
and these require careful
maintenance and drying.
209
00:18:30,805 --> 00:18:32,502
But sometimes the elements
just won't cooperate,
210
00:18:34,809 --> 00:18:36,680
and they simply have to put up
with a good soaking.
211
00:18:42,338 --> 00:18:43,600
The rains that fall
on Fraser Island
212
00:18:46,429 --> 00:18:47,735
seep into an enormous
dome-shaped water table
213
00:18:47,735 --> 00:18:48,127
below the dunes
214
00:18:51,652 --> 00:18:53,654
that in some places may reach
100 feet below sea level.
215
00:18:57,397 --> 00:18:57,875
[Thunder rumbling]
216
00:19:06,406 --> 00:19:07,494
Lake Wabby dips into
this aquifer,
217
00:19:10,018 --> 00:19:11,019
and is known as a window lake.
218
00:19:15,197 --> 00:19:16,416
But this is a lake under siege...
219
00:19:19,114 --> 00:19:20,637
by the same dune process
that formed it.
220
00:19:23,553 --> 00:19:24,815
Lake Wabby is being
engulfed by sand
221
00:19:27,122 --> 00:19:28,254
at the rate of six feet a year.
222
00:19:30,908 --> 00:19:32,997
In 100 years, the sand will
completely reclaim the lake.
223
00:19:38,220 --> 00:19:38,612
[Insects buzzing]
224
00:19:42,485 --> 00:19:43,791
Moving inland beyond
the advancing sand
225
00:19:46,097 --> 00:19:47,229
and where the water table
is high,
226
00:19:49,405 --> 00:19:51,668
swamps and
heathlands can flourish.
227
00:19:51,668 --> 00:19:52,582
With their feet in the sand,
228
00:19:54,889 --> 00:19:58,284
the plants can find nutrients
hard to come by.
229
00:19:58,284 --> 00:20:00,503
But these hardy survivors manage
to create sweet salvation
230
00:20:01,765 --> 00:20:02,157
for the locals.
231
00:20:05,726 --> 00:20:07,423
The energy these plants might
otherwise invest
232
00:20:08,598 --> 00:20:09,512
into tall trunks and branches
233
00:20:11,427 --> 00:20:12,689
goes into producing
abundant nectar,
234
00:20:14,430 --> 00:20:15,692
attracting honey-eaters
that in turn
235
00:20:18,129 --> 00:20:19,261
spread pollen from
plant to plant.
236
00:20:23,918 --> 00:20:24,919
The nectar is in great demand,
237
00:20:27,138 --> 00:20:29,271
and birds squabble among themselves
238
00:20:29,271 --> 00:20:29,924
to defend their patch.
239
00:20:32,579 --> 00:20:33,057
[Birds chirping]
240
00:20:39,629 --> 00:20:40,804
Insects too are drawn
to the bounty.
241
00:20:46,854 --> 00:20:48,029
But not all nectar is
what it seems.
242
00:20:54,992 --> 00:20:56,690
On the heathland floor grows
a clever carnivore.
243
00:21:01,912 --> 00:21:04,001
The drosera, or sundew plants,
put out modified leaves
244
00:21:06,134 --> 00:21:08,136
that glisten with what looks
like irresistible nectar.
245
00:21:10,617 --> 00:21:12,183
But these gooey droplets
are actually laced
246
00:21:14,055 --> 00:21:14,969
with flesh-digesting enzymes.
247
00:21:16,927 --> 00:21:18,842
Any unfortunate insect tempted
by the apparent feast
248
00:21:21,105 --> 00:21:22,803
quickly finds itself
in a sticky situation...
249
00:21:24,848 --> 00:21:26,023
and well on the way to
a syrupy end.
250
00:21:34,205 --> 00:21:34,989
It's a brilliant solution
251
00:21:38,558 --> 00:21:41,996
for a plant stuck in an
infertile, sandy environment.
252
00:21:41,996 --> 00:21:43,432
With no nitrogen to
suck up from the soil.
253
00:21:45,826 --> 00:21:47,610
It sucks it out of its
unlucky victims instead.
254
00:21:49,917 --> 00:21:51,788
Fraser Island's ongoing battle
between sand and life
255
00:21:53,573 --> 00:21:54,878
has turned the plants
into carnivores.
256
00:22:06,368 --> 00:22:07,543
The jabiru, Australia's
only stork,
257
00:22:10,241 --> 00:22:13,244
wades along the edges
of these swampy regions,
258
00:22:13,244 --> 00:22:15,159
searching for frogs, fish,
and other tasty morsels
259
00:22:16,596 --> 00:22:17,161
hiding in the reefs.
260
00:22:21,992 --> 00:22:24,038
Its long legs are ideal for
swamp-walking, and its bill,
261
00:22:26,693 --> 00:22:27,824
designed for stabbing
and grabbing.
262
00:22:33,787 --> 00:22:35,005
Swamp hens take a different approach,
263
00:22:37,530 --> 00:22:38,618
feeling their way
among the reeds
264
00:22:40,881 --> 00:22:44,275
with their elongated toes
ready to snatch anything edible.
265
00:22:44,275 --> 00:22:45,973
Those long toes also provide
great stabilization
266
00:22:48,062 --> 00:22:49,411
for the gentle, if brief art,
of mating.
267
00:23:03,512 --> 00:23:05,384
Ironically for an island
surrounded by salt water,
268
00:23:07,777 --> 00:23:09,170
Fraser Island has a
higher concentration
269
00:23:11,215 --> 00:23:12,129
of permanent freshwater lakes
270
00:23:13,696 --> 00:23:15,176
than any other part of
the mainland,
271
00:23:15,176 --> 00:23:16,003
with more than 100 of them.
272
00:23:18,745 --> 00:23:21,835
But not all of the freshwater
lakes are welcoming to life.
273
00:23:21,835 --> 00:23:23,489
Some are highly acidic,
thanks to the tannins
274
00:23:25,969 --> 00:23:27,971
leached out of the decaying
vegetation in the water.
275
00:23:31,105 --> 00:23:32,889
Remarkably, they're home
to some of Australia's
276
00:23:34,325 --> 00:23:35,152
most delicate creatures.
277
00:23:38,112 --> 00:23:41,681
Even though they absorb water
and breathe through their skin,
278
00:23:41,681 --> 00:23:43,030
four species of frogs
on Fraser Island
279
00:23:46,076 --> 00:23:47,948
have adapted to the harshly
low pH of the acid lakes.
280
00:23:52,779 --> 00:23:54,824
They thrive in the absence of
competitors and predators,
281
00:23:56,130 --> 00:23:57,261
who can't tolerate the acidity.
282
00:24:03,224 --> 00:24:03,790
Known as acid frogs,
283
00:24:07,663 --> 00:24:09,578
they huddle silently
in the reeds during the day.
284
00:24:09,578 --> 00:24:11,580
But at night, they begin to make
their way upwards...
285
00:24:12,538 --> 00:24:13,103
to sing.
286
00:24:16,106 --> 00:24:16,455
[Frogs squeaking]
287
00:24:25,986 --> 00:24:27,944
As the sun sets, the lakes
come alive with noise...
288
00:24:29,946 --> 00:24:30,338
[Frogs squeaking]
289
00:24:34,037 --> 00:24:35,822
...catching the attention of
nocturnal predators.
290
00:24:38,215 --> 00:24:40,566
This male acid frog has found a
stage from which to serenade
291
00:24:41,915 --> 00:24:42,481
the resident females.
292
00:24:45,571 --> 00:24:45,962
[Frogs squeaking]
293
00:24:49,575 --> 00:24:50,750
Magnified by an
enlarge vocal sack,
294
00:24:52,012 --> 00:24:53,187
his calls echo around the swamp.
295
00:24:57,757 --> 00:24:59,410
But it's not only the females
that take notice.
296
00:25:01,674 --> 00:25:03,545
A brown tree snake, also
known as the night tiger,
297
00:25:05,329 --> 00:25:06,679
is drawn to the vibrations
of his calls.
298
00:25:08,463 --> 00:25:08,855
[Frogs squeaking]
299
00:25:23,304 --> 00:25:25,393
Its long, lean body effortlessly
spans large distances
300
00:25:27,308 --> 00:25:27,700
between branches.
301
00:25:34,750 --> 00:25:36,447
It hunts by sight and
by tasting the night air
302
00:25:37,361 --> 00:25:38,014
for the scent of prey.
303
00:25:50,549 --> 00:25:52,594
The acid frog senses his
approach and freezes, silent.
304
00:26:01,298 --> 00:26:01,603
[♪]
305
00:26:10,481 --> 00:26:11,831
Despite the night tiger's
keen eyesight,
306
00:26:13,789 --> 00:26:14,573
this meal has eluded him.
307
00:26:17,227 --> 00:26:18,359
He'll have to search elsewhere.
308
00:26:27,324 --> 00:26:29,675
Night-time is also the right
time for this little marsupial.
309
00:26:32,068 --> 00:26:32,591
The squirrel glider.
310
00:26:35,985 --> 00:26:37,552
His giant eyes give him
acute night vision.
311
00:26:40,860 --> 00:26:41,687
He is searching for fruits
312
00:26:44,994 --> 00:26:46,605
and insects washed down
with sap and nectar.
313
00:27:00,706 --> 00:27:02,533
His slightly smaller neighbour,
the sugar glider,
314
00:27:03,970 --> 00:27:04,623
is also out and about.
315
00:27:07,321 --> 00:27:08,496
Both species are
perfectly adapted
316
00:27:10,019 --> 00:27:12,631
to life in the forest canopy,
317
00:27:12,631 --> 00:27:15,503
out of reach of the predators
that might be lurking below.
318
00:27:15,503 --> 00:27:17,157
Stretchy membranes on
the sides of their bodies
319
00:27:18,854 --> 00:27:19,768
give the gliders their name.
320
00:27:21,596 --> 00:27:22,510
At the first sign of trouble,
321
00:27:25,818 --> 00:27:28,342
this pint-sized parachutists can
launch themselves into the air,
322
00:27:28,342 --> 00:27:29,343
trimming their furry membranes
323
00:27:32,215 --> 00:27:33,564
to control their trajectory
and landings
324
00:27:33,564 --> 00:27:34,304
with astounding accuracy.
325
00:27:35,654 --> 00:27:35,958
[♪]
326
00:27:54,324 --> 00:27:56,370
Beyond the swamps and open
forest where the dingoes hunt
327
00:27:58,067 --> 00:27:59,460
lie the high central dunes,
650 feet up.
328
00:28:03,420 --> 00:28:05,422
Here, a true miracle of the
island rises into the sky:
329
00:28:07,555 --> 00:28:08,164
a massive rainforest,
330
00:28:12,125 --> 00:28:14,257
the only one in the world to
grow in such high sand dunes.
331
00:28:17,870 --> 00:28:19,915
Usually complex forests of
this size grow only on soil.
332
00:28:24,050 --> 00:28:26,530
Some plants here are rare relics
from the age of the dinosaurs.
333
00:28:32,623 --> 00:28:33,233
These are king ferns,
334
00:28:36,932 --> 00:28:39,587
whose lineage stretches back
300 million years.
335
00:28:39,587 --> 00:28:41,502
The fronds of this fern are
the largest in the world,
336
00:28:43,199 --> 00:28:44,723
stretching some 26 feet
from their base.
337
00:28:50,946 --> 00:28:51,947
Their kind existed
on the planet
338
00:28:54,428 --> 00:28:55,255
before Australia separated
339
00:28:57,126 --> 00:28:58,737
from the ancient
supercontinent of Gondwana.
340
00:29:01,130 --> 00:29:03,002
Only a few pockets of them
still exist in Australia.
341
00:29:05,308 --> 00:29:07,746
This stand from Fraser Island's
interior is one of the finest.
342
00:29:15,362 --> 00:29:17,320
The sands of Fraser Island
even support true giants
343
00:29:19,105 --> 00:29:20,019
such as these Satinay trees.
344
00:29:23,500 --> 00:29:24,284
Towering up to 100 feet,
345
00:29:27,766 --> 00:29:30,159
these trees occur only in this
sandy corner of Australia.
346
00:29:30,159 --> 00:29:31,770
They were once highly sought
after as timber
347
00:29:34,424 --> 00:29:36,209
because of their ability to
resist termites and borers,
348
00:29:36,209 --> 00:29:37,558
and were used to build
the Suez Canal.
349
00:29:39,386 --> 00:29:40,300
Now they are mostly protected
350
00:29:43,129 --> 00:29:44,478
by the island's World Heritage status.
351
00:29:46,480 --> 00:29:48,482
The enormous trees are no
obstacle to the lace monitor
352
00:29:50,266 --> 00:29:51,659
in its never-ending
search for bird eggs.
353
00:29:56,533 --> 00:29:58,927
They also provide an escape from
the attention of the dingoes
354
00:30:01,234 --> 00:30:02,539
that are constantly
on the prowl below.
355
00:30:11,505 --> 00:30:11,810
[♪]
356
00:30:18,381 --> 00:30:20,731
The fallen timbers provide ideal
pupping and nursing dens
357
00:30:21,994 --> 00:30:23,169
for another of the
island's packs,
358
00:30:28,391 --> 00:30:30,306
and hollow boughs serve as
daytime sleeping places
359
00:30:31,438 --> 00:30:31,917
for the gliders.
360
00:30:40,055 --> 00:30:41,404
The rotting giants
eventually decompose,
361
00:30:43,842 --> 00:30:45,104
giving back their nutrients
to the soil
362
00:30:46,932 --> 00:30:48,368
and helping sustain
the improbable forest.
363
00:30:58,291 --> 00:30:59,858
The thick carpet of leaves
on the forest floor
364
00:31:02,425 --> 00:31:04,471
conceals a killer that is both
dangerous and endangered.
365
00:31:08,605 --> 00:31:10,390
The death adder has an
ingenious hunting strategy
366
00:31:12,174 --> 00:31:13,001
designed to
bring prey to it,
367
00:31:15,786 --> 00:31:16,526
not the other way around.
368
00:31:19,616 --> 00:31:22,010
Its stout body tapers into a
tail with an agile, wormlike end
369
00:31:24,099 --> 00:31:25,884
that it can wiggle even
as the rest of its body
370
00:31:27,363 --> 00:31:27,842
remains motionless.
371
00:31:31,585 --> 00:31:34,718
The well-camouflaged body
blends into the background,
372
00:31:34,718 --> 00:31:36,720
but the tail flaunts itself
as a lively, tasty worm.
373
00:31:42,291 --> 00:31:43,858
Known as caudal luring,
this lethal mimicry
374
00:31:46,252 --> 00:31:47,514
is the death adder's
weapon of choice.
375
00:31:51,648 --> 00:31:53,128
A skink that falls for
the trick is doomed.
376
00:31:55,609 --> 00:31:57,611
The death adder strikes with
an astounding accuracy,
377
00:31:59,134 --> 00:32:00,048
delivering highly
potent venom,
378
00:32:02,746 --> 00:32:04,661
with the fastest strike
of any snake in the world.
379
00:32:06,359 --> 00:32:07,838
But this clever killer
is in dire straits.
380
00:32:10,450 --> 00:32:12,365
Its numbers are rapidly
declining on the mainland,
381
00:32:16,021 --> 00:32:17,239
a victim of the infamous
cane toad.
382
00:32:21,591 --> 00:32:22,853
Introduced to Australia
in the 1930s
383
00:32:25,030 --> 00:32:25,944
as an insect control measure,
384
00:32:27,989 --> 00:32:29,034
the plan has gone
horribly wrong.
385
00:32:31,297 --> 00:32:32,863
Cane toads are an
environmental nightmare.
386
00:32:35,518 --> 00:32:37,781
They reproduce prolifically and
have few natural predators.
387
00:32:40,436 --> 00:32:42,569
They eat anything they can put
their giant mouths around,
388
00:32:44,571 --> 00:32:46,616
and anything that eats them
gets a giant dose of poison,
389
00:32:48,053 --> 00:32:48,923
including the death adder.
390
00:32:52,100 --> 00:32:53,145
Despite the presence
of the toads,
391
00:32:55,538 --> 00:32:57,671
death adders are holding
on better here on Fraser Island
392
00:32:57,671 --> 00:33:00,282
than elsewhere because of
the island's chemistry.
393
00:33:00,282 --> 00:33:01,196
Many of its lakes and swamps
394
00:33:04,591 --> 00:33:07,420
are simply too acidic
for the toad to survive in,
395
00:33:07,420 --> 00:33:08,421
and there's another snake here
396
00:33:11,380 --> 00:33:12,991
that manages to keep
the cane toad in check.
397
00:33:16,733 --> 00:33:17,038
[♪]
398
00:33:23,958 --> 00:33:25,655
The keelback has developed
a taste for the toad
399
00:33:28,136 --> 00:33:29,398
and a tolerance for
the powerful toxins
400
00:33:31,487 --> 00:33:32,619
that seep from the toad's skin.
401
00:33:34,577 --> 00:33:36,797
Unlike most snakes, the
keelback attacks from behind...
402
00:33:47,373 --> 00:33:48,200
...avoiding the full impact
403
00:33:51,420 --> 00:33:52,813
of the toad's poison-laden
cheek glands.
404
00:33:56,860 --> 00:33:57,687
The snake lives another day
405
00:34:00,734 --> 00:34:02,083
and there is one less toad
in the swamp.
406
00:34:03,737 --> 00:34:04,042
[♪]
407
00:34:16,706 --> 00:34:17,794
The highest lakes on
Fraser Island
408
00:34:20,319 --> 00:34:21,581
are almost 800 feet
above sea level,
409
00:34:23,322 --> 00:34:24,888
too high to connect
to the water table below.
410
00:34:30,459 --> 00:34:32,461
These perched lakes are lined
with decaying vegetation,
411
00:34:34,246 --> 00:34:35,943
creating an impermeable,
compacted base layer
412
00:34:38,163 --> 00:34:39,990
that collects and holds water
like a great saucer.
413
00:34:45,213 --> 00:34:46,649
The waters of these lakes
are often so pure
414
00:34:48,434 --> 00:34:49,087
they're crystal clear.
415
00:34:57,095 --> 00:34:58,096
These are the sparkling waters
416
00:35:00,968 --> 00:35:02,317
and snow-white beaches
of Lake McKenzie.
417
00:35:04,841 --> 00:35:06,887
This is one of the last lakes
to be found on the ascent
418
00:35:08,062 --> 00:35:08,541
from the east coast
419
00:35:11,631 --> 00:35:12,936
before the island
slopes down once more
420
00:35:12,936 --> 00:35:14,112
towards the sheltered
western shore.
421
00:35:22,816 --> 00:35:24,513
Rain falling on this leeward
side of the island
422
00:35:26,559 --> 00:35:28,126
is filtered and fed into
Wanggoolba Creek.
423
00:35:31,651 --> 00:35:33,218
It flows westward and into
the narrow shallows
424
00:35:35,394 --> 00:35:36,960
that separate the island
from the mainland.
425
00:35:46,318 --> 00:35:47,710
Here, the island reveals
its alter ego:
426
00:35:51,105 --> 00:35:52,237
a serene, sheltered environment
427
00:35:55,240 --> 00:35:56,502
subject not to the
turmoil and uncertainty
428
00:35:56,502 --> 00:35:57,242
of the winds and waves,
429
00:36:00,114 --> 00:36:01,942
but the gentler push
and pull of the tides.
430
00:36:01,942 --> 00:36:02,421
The west shoreline
431
00:36:06,251 --> 00:36:07,165
receives a rich payload
of silt and nutrients
432
00:36:07,165 --> 00:36:08,122
fed by the mainland's rivers.
433
00:36:10,733 --> 00:36:12,953
This is where the sands run out
and the mudflats begin.
434
00:36:18,741 --> 00:36:21,309
The ebb and flow of the tide
reveals and conceals
435
00:36:21,309 --> 00:36:22,092
riches below the surface.
436
00:36:33,452 --> 00:36:34,192
When the tide runs out,
437
00:36:37,934 --> 00:36:39,980
vast armies of light blue
soldier crabs quickly emerge.
438
00:36:41,373 --> 00:36:42,374
They defy crab-walking
convention
439
00:36:45,203 --> 00:36:46,639
by marching forwards
rather than sideways.
440
00:36:51,209 --> 00:36:52,906
As they march, they sift
through the wet sand,
441
00:36:54,821 --> 00:36:56,083
searching for tiny morsels
of food.
442
00:36:58,172 --> 00:37:00,087
They feverishly sort the edible
bits from the sand,
443
00:37:02,916 --> 00:37:04,918
then race to bury themselves
before the tide comes in.
444
00:37:10,967 --> 00:37:13,056
Corkscrewing into the sand
with their specialized claws,
445
00:37:14,580 --> 00:37:16,146
they dig burrows complete
with air pockets
446
00:37:18,323 --> 00:37:19,541
so they can breathe
while submerged.
447
00:37:21,717 --> 00:37:23,284
But these hatchers leave
a tell-tale sign
448
00:37:25,025 --> 00:37:25,591
for predatory birds.
449
00:37:30,291 --> 00:37:31,161
Whimbrels stalk the crabs.
450
00:37:37,255 --> 00:37:38,430
At the slightest sign of danger,
451
00:37:41,607 --> 00:37:43,391
the crabs bury themselves
as quickly as possible.
452
00:37:46,176 --> 00:37:48,266
The whimbrels use their sharp
eyesight to spot and seize
453
00:37:49,963 --> 00:37:50,398
the helpless crabs.
454
00:38:07,023 --> 00:38:09,112
Their downward-curved bills
can stab deep into the sand,
455
00:38:12,638 --> 00:38:14,030
foiling the soldier crabs'
best defenses.
456
00:38:23,170 --> 00:38:24,563
They aren't the only
birds hunting crabs.
457
00:38:27,914 --> 00:38:29,350
The beach stone-curlews
join the feast,
458
00:38:31,439 --> 00:38:32,614
eating as many crabs as
they can
459
00:38:34,312 --> 00:38:35,138
before the tide returns.
460
00:38:42,798 --> 00:38:43,712
The danger is never far away.
461
00:38:46,585 --> 00:38:48,021
This brahminy kite keeps
a close watch,
462
00:38:50,545 --> 00:38:52,068
hoping to catch one
of the birds off guard.
463
00:38:59,293 --> 00:39:02,209
But the driftwood that lines the
shore provides excellent cover
464
00:39:02,209 --> 00:39:02,688
for the curlews.
465
00:39:10,870 --> 00:39:12,480
They camouflage themselves
amongst the debris.
466
00:39:27,887 --> 00:39:29,279
The west coast is the
perfect environment
467
00:39:31,760 --> 00:39:33,022
for some of the
hardiest and most salt-tolerant
468
00:39:33,022 --> 00:39:33,371
of all plants:
469
00:39:35,938 --> 00:39:36,374
mangroves.
470
00:39:39,812 --> 00:39:41,466
Their sturdy prop roots
provide a firm footing
471
00:39:43,076 --> 00:39:43,990
in the silt-laden underworld.
472
00:39:53,739 --> 00:39:55,001
These are drowned and
revealed each day
473
00:39:57,307 --> 00:39:58,526
with the ebb and
flow of the tides.
474
00:40:01,877 --> 00:40:04,184
And they're a rich hunting
ground for some local residents.
475
00:40:08,971 --> 00:40:11,060
The rakali is a native rodent
with partially webbed feet,
476
00:40:12,932 --> 00:40:14,542
thick water-repellent fur,
and long whiskers.
477
00:40:16,718 --> 00:40:17,893
Australia's equivalent
to the otter.
478
00:40:21,157 --> 00:40:24,639
It is one of Australia's shiest
and least-known native mammals.
479
00:40:24,639 --> 00:40:25,901
To even catch a glimpse
is a rarity.
480
00:40:28,948 --> 00:40:30,689
But their insatiable taste
for freshwater mussels
481
00:40:32,952 --> 00:40:34,475
means you can always tell
where they've been.
482
00:40:40,568 --> 00:40:42,004
They're masters at making
themselves scarce
483
00:40:43,745 --> 00:40:44,485
when they sense danger,
484
00:40:46,879 --> 00:40:49,011
and this saltwater crocodile
definitely counts as danger.
485
00:40:55,757 --> 00:40:57,324
The salty is the world's
largest crocodile.
486
00:41:00,066 --> 00:41:01,807
They can grow to over 20 feet
and weight a tonne.
487
00:41:07,813 --> 00:41:08,944
They haunt rivers and estuaries
488
00:41:11,991 --> 00:41:13,471
and make great oceanic journeys
in search of prey.
489
00:41:13,471 --> 00:41:14,428
But a visit from the mainland
490
00:41:18,127 --> 00:41:19,651
to the rich hunting grounds
of the Fraser Island mangroves
491
00:41:19,651 --> 00:41:21,348
is barely a day-trip
for this great predator.
492
00:41:25,221 --> 00:41:29,269
This classic ambush predator
lurks just beneath the surface,
493
00:41:29,269 --> 00:41:31,706
with only its prominent eyes and
nostrils visible as it hunts.
494
00:41:38,060 --> 00:41:40,280
It will eat anything it can get
its impressive jaws on.
495
00:41:48,941 --> 00:41:51,465
One of the sea's gentler giants
is also drawn to Fraser Island.
496
00:41:55,861 --> 00:41:57,515
Dugongs can only survive
where seagrass grows,
497
00:41:59,865 --> 00:42:01,823
and the great sandy straits
support seagrass meadows
498
00:42:03,085 --> 00:42:03,825
the size of Rhode Island.
499
00:42:12,921 --> 00:42:14,793
This dugong cow is part
of a healthy local herd.
500
00:42:16,969 --> 00:42:18,448
Her heavy bones give
her negative buoyancy,
501
00:42:19,885 --> 00:42:20,886
anchoring her to
the sea floor
502
00:42:22,931 --> 00:42:24,063
as she grazes
on the seagrass beds.
503
00:42:26,326 --> 00:42:27,457
A relative of the
American manatee,
504
00:42:30,373 --> 00:42:31,723
she can munch her way through
60 pounds of seagrass
505
00:42:31,723 --> 00:42:32,201
in a single day.
506
00:42:35,727 --> 00:42:37,076
She can stay under for up
to six minutes
507
00:42:38,947 --> 00:42:39,861
before surfacing to breathe.
508
00:42:42,081 --> 00:42:43,778
Sea grass meadows stabilize
the shifting sediment
509
00:42:45,040 --> 00:42:45,519
and trap nutrients.
510
00:42:49,523 --> 00:42:50,480
The world's seagrass meadows
511
00:42:53,440 --> 00:42:54,920
also act like great
carbon sinks,
512
00:42:54,920 --> 00:42:56,269
sequestering twice
the amount of carbon
513
00:42:58,227 --> 00:43:00,926
a tropical forest of
the same size can store.
514
00:43:00,926 --> 00:43:02,188
Just 2.5 acres of seagrass
can capture
515
00:43:05,104 --> 00:43:06,801
more than 30 million
tonnes of carbon each year
516
00:43:08,673 --> 00:43:10,588
and produce over 26,000
gallons of oxygen per day,
517
00:43:13,939 --> 00:43:15,288
enough for nearly 200 people
to breathe.
518
00:43:21,294 --> 00:43:22,687
Green sea turtles also
come here to feed,
519
00:43:25,037 --> 00:43:27,866
grazing on the seagrass
before heading north to breed
520
00:43:27,866 --> 00:43:29,041
on the Great Barrier Reef islands.
521
00:43:30,825 --> 00:43:31,652
Towards the end of spring,
522
00:43:34,350 --> 00:43:36,570
they leave the shallows
and head to the waters
523
00:43:36,570 --> 00:43:37,789
off the northern tip
of Fraser Island.
524
00:43:40,661 --> 00:43:41,793
These are amongst
the most important
525
00:43:44,012 --> 00:43:46,275
courting and mating grounds
526
00:43:46,275 --> 00:43:47,886
for the Pacific Ocean's
green sea turtles...
527
00:43:51,890 --> 00:43:52,542
and predators know it.
528
00:43:58,592 --> 00:43:59,767
The large blunt-nose tiger shark
529
00:44:02,814 --> 00:44:05,730
is known to eat almost anything
that crosses its path,
530
00:44:05,730 --> 00:44:07,732
but it's specially equipped
to deal with large turtles.
531
00:44:13,172 --> 00:44:13,999
Having killed this turtle,
532
00:44:17,176 --> 00:44:19,308
the tigers proceed to eat
the easy bits first:
533
00:44:19,308 --> 00:44:19,657
the flippers.
534
00:44:27,186 --> 00:44:28,491
They then use their
serrated-edge teeth
535
00:44:31,059 --> 00:44:32,365
to saw through the turtle's
hard shell.
536
00:44:33,583 --> 00:44:33,888
[♪]
537
00:44:43,942 --> 00:44:45,030
But green sea turtles
have adapted
538
00:44:47,685 --> 00:44:49,512
and spend little time
at the surface,
539
00:44:49,512 --> 00:44:50,339
where they can be ambushed.
540
00:44:51,906 --> 00:44:54,430
Instead, they grab a
quick breath
541
00:44:54,430 --> 00:44:56,606
and head right back to the
relative safety of the bottom.
542
00:45:03,048 --> 00:45:04,136
The fertile sands of
Fraser Island
543
00:45:06,921 --> 00:45:08,183
serve as a valuable
fuelling station
544
00:45:09,402 --> 00:45:10,316
for many migratory seabirds.
545
00:45:21,457 --> 00:45:22,067
This bar-tailed godwit
546
00:45:25,505 --> 00:45:26,549
is preparing for one of
the most incredible journeys
547
00:45:26,549 --> 00:45:27,202
in the animal kingdom.
548
00:45:31,337 --> 00:45:33,339
It will gorge itself on
molluscs, worms, and insects,
549
00:45:35,167 --> 00:45:36,864
in preparation for the
long-haul flight ahead.
550
00:45:41,129 --> 00:45:42,478
By the time it embarks
on the journey,
551
00:45:45,307 --> 00:45:47,962
more than half of its body
will be fat reserves.
552
00:45:47,962 --> 00:45:49,572
These reserves will provide
much-needed energy
553
00:45:52,053 --> 00:45:54,534
as the godwit's flight is
the longest nonstop journey
554
00:45:54,534 --> 00:45:55,013
made by any animal.
555
00:45:59,757 --> 00:46:01,759
It leaves Fraser Island and
does not touch ground again
556
00:46:03,673 --> 00:46:06,546
until arriving at their breeding
grounds in Alaska,
557
00:46:06,546 --> 00:46:07,155
over 7,000 miles away.
558
00:46:14,728 --> 00:46:16,251
From the windswept shores
of the east coast,
559
00:46:20,081 --> 00:46:21,648
across the marching
dunes and placid lakes...
560
00:46:27,088 --> 00:46:27,872
through towering forests
561
00:46:30,962 --> 00:46:32,137
with their feet in
shifting sands,
562
00:46:34,400 --> 00:46:35,793
down to the seagrass meadows
on the west.
563
00:46:41,320 --> 00:46:43,278
Fraser Island truly lives up
to its more ancient name:
564
00:46:46,238 --> 00:46:46,804
K'gari.
565
00:46:50,285 --> 00:46:50,720
Paradise.
566
00:47:01,209 --> 00:47:03,255
A paradise that these great
whales return to every year,
567
00:47:08,216 --> 00:47:10,436
that protects the purest strain
of dingoes in the world,
568
00:47:13,700 --> 00:47:14,527
where plants and animals
569
00:47:18,052 --> 00:47:19,749
have found their own
unique way of surviving...
570
00:47:23,884 --> 00:47:25,190
on the world's largest island of sand.45503
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