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In this clip, we are going to take a look at white balancing.
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In the previous clips, we took a look at denoising the plate first.
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So it's really important so that we can retain the details in our keys.
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So the second part is of course white balancing,
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and that's another preprocessing step that we can take.
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We're going to take a look at a couple of different terms that
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is going to help us with the white balancing.
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The first one is color cast.
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So color cast in a tint of a particular color,
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usually unwanted,
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which affects a whole or portion of a photographic image evenly.
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It can be caused by colored gels or filters that are placed
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over top of the lighting used on sets,
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and they are sometimes used to create a mood.
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So for example, blue lighting creates more of the cooler tones,
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and yellow or magenta creates more warmer tones.
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Other color casting can be caused by improper white balancing on set.
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So what exactly is white balancing?
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White balancing is the process of removing unrealistic color
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casts so that the objects which appear white in person are
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rendered white in your photo.
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So for example down here we have a woman that has a white cardigan,
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and it doesn't quite look white in this piece of footage.
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So that's partially because of the green spill onto the character,
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but it's also because perhaps the white balance wasn't quite right on set.
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Proper camera balance white balance has to take into account
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the color temperature of the light source,
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which refers to the relative warmth or coolness of the white lights.
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So let's take a look at what color temperature is a little bit more in depth.
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So color temperature is measured in Kelvin, or K for short.
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The Kelvin scale ranges from 1, 000 for the measurement of candlelight,
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to 10, 000 for an overcast sky.
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Those are just approximate numbers, of course.
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The scale starts with the warmest color casts, and it ends with the coolest.
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So just those reference to most of our footage for these modules and clips,
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and that is that we filmed mostly with either tungsten or daylight lighting.
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So tungsten lighting is approximately 2500 to 3500K,
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and daylight lighting is approximately 5000 to 6500K.
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So now that we've reviewed a number of different terms,
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let's take a look at what it looks like in person.
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So back to our images, and we have a character cropped in nice and close for us.
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And let's take a look at some color cast.
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So here's the original image,
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and we have artificially introduced a cool color cast.
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So it changes our character, it changes the green screen.
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So overall, they look very blue.
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So this newspaper is not looking quite right.
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The skin tones are looking very pale.
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And so this is very, very unrealistic.
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We definitely need to change it.
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And then there's the opposite in the scale, which is the warm color cast.
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And again, it changed the green screen so it may be harder to pull a key.
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But definitely, we can correct it.
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So let's take a look at our workflow.
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So we have a woman on the green screen,
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and again we've introduced an artificial cool color cast.
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And this is just for this particular example.
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And first up, of course, is denoising the plate.
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So denoise that plate.
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If you need a refresher,
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please go back to the clip from earlier in this module
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to learn how to do that in detail.
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Next we're going to pull a keylight.
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So here's a keylight that I pulled previously.
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And take a look at the alpha.
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So the backing region over here is definitely way too high of an alpha,
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it's between 15 and 25.
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So not acceptable, it will need to be revised.
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And if we color slam the lut and going down, we have holes in our alpha as well.
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So definitely not final,
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hopefully we can find a better solution and pull a better
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key once we correct that color casting.
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So on to our next step, which is the initial white balance.
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So we're going to go into here and reset our values
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back to one and sample the image.
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So here is our initial image,
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and we want to select an area of this image that should be pure white.
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So what would look white on set that isn't looking white right now?
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Now I could select the screen left shoulder,
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but I selected the screen white shoulder previously,
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and we'll see why in a moment.
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So it doesn't matter which one we choose,
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but in this particular example I chose that one.
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So double-click on a Grade tool,
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which is attached to my original footage and selects
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the eyedropper for the white point.
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I'm going to hold down Control + Shift + left mouse button and
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drag and select that screen right shoulder.
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And right away, just deselect your eyedropper,
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Control + Shift + click to get rid of that red box,
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it's looking much better already.
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So this is before and this is after.
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So it's corrected.
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However, look at the difference in the luminance values.
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Look how much brighter our image is, and we don't want that.
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It's almost blowing out the values in the shoulder screen left here.
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So there is a way to fix that.
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So we will go on to the luminance matching by eye.
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So I've taken a previously color corrected image from
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an initial white balance over here.
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We're going to work with it.
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So the first thing is I'm going to look at the white option
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up here at the top of the properties bin,
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or sorry, on the top of the viewport, and eye view one,
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hit the number two and select the wipe version,
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or wipe option.
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So here's the wipe option here and I'm going to wipe back in forth.
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So screen left is going to be the original image.
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Screen right is the corrected image.
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However, it's much brighter.
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So hit Y on your keyboard, which will give us the luminance values.
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So I'm just going to make this a little bit wider so we can see there.
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So it's showing us the luminance values.
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We can also see the luminance values down here under L, under the viewport.
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So with the Grade tool selected,
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with the white point already selected from our previous step,
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we are going to adjust the gain values.
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The idea being is that we are going to try to match the values on the
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screen left on the screen right by adjusting the gain.
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So if I pull down the gain, you can match it pretty close.
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Just pull it back just a little bit.
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Now I am matching it by eye.
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You'll notice that it doesn't necessarily match on
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the other portions of the plate, but it's pretty darn close.
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So it's looking a lot better than it was before.
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So hit A twice, A, A, and it takes it to full color.
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And the luminance matches much better now.
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So the shoulder isn't so blown out, and we're back to where we were before.
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Now if you don't like matching it by eye and you want to match it by a number,
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there is a solution.
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So again, let's go back to the color-corrected version from before,
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or the white balance, and double-click and hit one.
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And I'm going to adjust the numbers so that we can see how that works.
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So sorry, we're going to hit the original image, one.
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Two for our white-balanced image and hit Y so that we
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can get back into the luminance.
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And I'm going to sample some numbers.
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So I'm going to sample up on the cheek here.
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So Control + Shift + left mouse button and drag.
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And our luminance values here,
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I'm just going to turn off the wipe so it's not confusing.
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And we can see that our original image values,
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just make sure that we are viewing it, are approximately.
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158.
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So I'm just going to add a sticky note here and write that down.
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So.
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158,
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and that's going to be our target for trying to match
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the luminance in that same area.
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So now view our white-balanced image,
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and we're going to try to get the luminance values in here,
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which are currently.
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267 to be.
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158.
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So that's where it was before, and that's where it currently is.
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So we're going to double-click on our White Balance tool and again,
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play with our gain values until the luminance values get to.
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158.
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So I'm going to bring it down.
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There we are, oh, we went a little bit too far.
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158.
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So now if we take a look at the two of them,
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this is before and this is after, and it's matching pretty close.
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Not quite 100 percent, but it's looking very,
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very close and definitely acceptable.
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So again, Control + Shift + click to get rid of that red dot.
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Go back, A, A twice to full color.
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And this is our original image, and that is our corrected image.
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So it looks much better than it was before.
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If anything, it looks almost a little bit warm.
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But again, we've reintroduced the color into our character,
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which is really nice.
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So now let's take a look at the difference between what it
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looked like before with our key and currently.
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So here's our test and go A for Alpha.
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So this is our original image.
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And this is our corrected, white-balanced image.
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So we're going to focus up here on the umbrella.
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A little bit wider.
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And so this is the original image and our corrected one.
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So we're already adding more detail.
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Look what's happened to our core.
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Much, much better than it was before.
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So not perfect, but just a little bit of change is introducing more detail.
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Now there's one last step that we can take,
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which is sometimes saturating the plate will help enhance this step more.
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So just be mindful, this can be dangerous.
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It can actually work against you.
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But try it, and if it makes your key a little bit better, use it.
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So I've added a Saturation tool before the key that I've just pulled
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for the white balance and luminance matched image.
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And under Saturation, I have selected green.
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So we're just going to saturate the green channel,
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and I've saturated it by about 25 percent.
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So this is before, this is after.
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It's very, very subtle between the two of them.
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But let's see what it does to our key.
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So let's just pull this wide one more time to see it and go into A for alpha.
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So this is the white balance plus saturation and the regular white balance.
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And look at the difference, look what it's done to our umbrella.
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So we've reintroduced just a tad bit more detail,
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but enough that it might be usable.
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So it's working for us in this case.
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Again,
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it might not work in all cases but it's worth trying to see if it will help.
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So as a quick recap,
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be sure that you white balance and reintroduce that
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luminance as part of your preprocessing step.
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And that's really only needed if color casting is present.
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