Original subtitles

(whooshing)

(soft music)

(waves crashing)

(pounding drum music)

- So I'm just gonna show you

how I put my NikonD4S into AquaTech housing.

So here's the guide track here.

You can actually change this camera

from a Nikon to a Canon, that's kind of a neat,

flexible thing that you can't do with other housings.

Four clips are very easy, you don't have to worry

about having the wing nuts.

Top is focus, bottom is release.

And you can change settings in the back,

you can look at images, you can set your ISO, change things,

it's just nice to have the flexibility of doing that.

It's fast, I mean, if the waves are good,

I don't want to be screwing around

with trying to put everything together.

(drum music)

(waves roaring)

(rock guitar music)

It's breaking on the dry sand, so there's no fins required.

It just, all the water comes and just throws,

heaves right onto the dry sand.

So we're down there, we basically lie flat,

stick the camera up, try to capture video and stills

as it's blowing over and sand's exploding

and going in every crevice.

I think them are barrels!

That is easier than getting, jumping in

when it doesn't break and it just blows you up.

You can sometimes sneak under, and boom,

and it's not as bad.

I always enjoy the ride, even when it's flat,

just the jump in the saltwater is therapeutic

and it's a rush.

It's enough to me to run down there

and at least do a cartwheel.

Keiki is always gonna have the final say.

You can't disrespect this place.

I think it's, to me,

it's the gnarliest shorebreak in the world by far.

It's like right, you know?

Needs to be a little bigger.

Like they're coming, so it makes you want to jump in,

like this one might have, might.

I'm gonna go, you might see me do the same cartwheel.

Maybe the second one might have.

Yeah, if you're not passionate about shorebreak

you won't put in the time to get the shot.

Like the clouds, a little bit of, you know,

not big enough, lot of guys will turn around

and say, "Forget it."

Me, I'm always optimistic and I'm just waiting

for that next bomb.

It's right on the verge, but as it gets,

as the tide comes, oh, this might actually a little.

See how it's trying?

When that thing curls up over, game on.

Let's just hope it does.

(rock music)

He's got a pretty good tuck, duck and roll.

And he's a good kid.

Awesome kid, always shows up.

Good ethics.

I like him.

(waves crashing)

It's good, it's juicy, it's thick, it's powerful.

(rock music)

Woo!

Woo!

He took off, and then just got worked.

(rock music)

- Woo!

(waves crashing)

- No!

(waves crashing)

(water gurgling)

(driving rock music)

(water gurgling)

Go, go, go!

(waves crashing)

(yelling and laughing)

(rock music)

Oh, what was I doing 20 years ago?

That's a good question.

Um...

I was working at Wahiawa Botanical Garden. (laughs)

(light music)

I surfed a lot of the shorebreak.

It was just, photography, it came out of sort of nowhere,

but I didn't know I had that eye

to capture art of waves, or turtles, or dolphins,

or kind of like a gut thing, some passion,

I just started to upload what I felt was worthy,

what I felt was interesting and cool.

And it struck a nerve and it turned into a full time career.

You wanna hold this?

I need my coffee.

I can't forget my coffee.

Be right back.

- I remember the first time I saw one of Clark's images.

I didn't know it was his at first.

Somebody gave me a postcard and asked if I could guess

where the barrel was.

And I was looking, I was pretty sure it was Waimea,

but it definitely had a unique feel to it.

And it wasn't a very safe feel,

it was something about that position,

anybody grows up body surfing,

in big shorebreaks sometimes you just,

there's a certain place you don't want to be.

- I'm excited to get out there.

- And that's where the photo was taken from, you know,

it was this image where it's,

it gave you that feeling when you looked

that you're about to get worked.

- I think it's gonna be fun.

I'm stoked, let's go.

- And I flipped it over, and sure enough

it was Clark Little, and it all made sense just because

if you've seen anybody take a beating

growing up on the North Shore, it was Clark.

- It's perfect and then uh,

it's gonna be epic out there, too, holy moley.

- Those days where it was too big for us to go out

and you just see this guy dropping in on a surfboard.

- Wanna make sure, I don't want, you know,

sound like I'm a flake,

but 9:30 at the latest, I'll be there.

- Sometimes make it to the bottom, sometimes not,

and just going back over the falls

or having a lip land on his head.

- All right, brother, take care.

- [Voiceover] All right.

- Shoots, aloha, bye, bye.

Yeah, we're on it.

So that's the okay, we're gonna get double dip, dude.

- I mean, every once in a while he'd get pretty,

a pretty good barrel, but most of the time

you'd just see him get worked.

(heavy bass music)

(wave crashing)

(yelling)

(water gurgling)

- On a good day at Keiki I go out probably

five to six hours.

Two, sometimes three sessions.

Morning time I'll go out three hours, ish, sometimes four.

I'll go back out for an afternoon, evening session

for another hour or two, and then sometimes with a flash

for another half hour.

That's pretty much on the golden day,

and I'll shoot anywhere from

probably 1,500 to 3,000 photos max.

So we're talking heaps of gigabytes

that I gotta go through,

and when the waves are good, sometimes I do that

for a whole day, then I wake up in the morning,

and then I, the waves are perfect,

and I gotta go right back out there.

(water gurgling)

When Mother Nature's delivering perfect waves,

you have to strike.

You have to strike while the iron's hot,

or you're gonna miss it.

You can always go back, summertime,

plenty of time to just go back and edit files.

And that's pretty much what I do.

I take my time when it's time to relax,

and when the waves are pumping, I'm out there shooting.

(whooshing)

Well, usually I take my kids to school,

have all my camera gear inside my truck,

head straight to Keiki to Mark's house, pull up.

Flynn's there, JMV, J. Lau, Dray, Seabass, all the boys,

and we just get together on the beach.

If it's pumping, we say, "Ah, this section's good,"

or, "This side's good," and boom, we all hit it.

I mean, it's, honestly, I get super excited for it.

I mean the night before we're texting each other,

"Hey, yeah, it's gonna be good here,

"it's gonna be good there.

"Conditions, the winds, oh no, too much north,

"too much west," you know, direction and

there's so many different things that have to come together

for that perfect wave, and we're chasing it.

Because, honestly, it's super, super fun and addicting

in a positive way.

Yeah, the crew that we have right now is insane.

You know, we got a great group of guys

that go out actually will take off

on the biggest shorebreak waves,

even sometimes not ride-able, and they still go,

and so for me, it's fun.

I mean, honestly, I scream at 'em, I tell 'em,

"Go, go you..."

'Cause I want to get somebody, a subject

where they're going over the falls

or they make it, it looks so darn radical,

you know, I mean these guys are getting launched

in 10, 12 foot shorebreak waves

and I'm just like this, watching, following them over.

Boom!

I love it, I get excited.

You know, rain or shine, I'm out there.

(rock guitar music)

I am a nature freak,

or I am a nature enthusiast.

My dad has always been a plant guy doing plumerias.

He sells plumeria cuttings, rare hybrid plumeria cuttings.

So I've always followed in his footsteps,

I've had a green thumb,

that's why I got a job at a botanical garden

because I am knowledgeable about plants.

It was probably the best job I could have had

city and county, all the benefits, medical, dental,

the whole nine yards,

until the photography job came up.

(electric guitar music)

It's been raining, I think yesterday was raining

or the day before.

Sun's out.

I guarantee the waves are kind of dropping into a place

where it's gonna be fun, comfortable, clean, and perfect.

Today we're gonna focus on vortexes,

we're gonna focus on going underwater

and getting the tube tornado-looking barrels underwater.

You know, everybody used to shoot the backs of the waves,

which is cool, really neat to see,

the back of the barrel and stuff,

but not until you get caught inside, open your eyes

and this wave, 'cause you're gonna get basically blasted.

If you're gonna shoot a really cool vortex,

you gotta get hit straight on by the wave,

because that's how it forms, from the front,

not the back, the front.

Waves breaking, they're coming at you

so you don't want to go like this

because it'll crack your head.

You want to put the housing on the side

when you shoot vortexes 'cause the wave's gonna come

and it's just gonna mow you over.

If you have it on the side

and you gotta make sure your angle's right.

It's neat to show people, 'cause a lot of people

don't want to get caught inside,

but if you do get caught inside

and you face the shorebreak wave,

it'll do these crazy things,

and I'm trying to capture it,

and I think today is gonna be a really good day

for the vortexes because of the clarity, number one,

the sun is shining, and there's waves.

So that's what I'm looking for

and I think we're gonna nail it today.

(upbeat music)

Conditions are clean.

It's good, it's coming down,

which means it's not gonna be real good for subject

guys boogie boarding and stuff,

but it's gonna be insane for underwater photography.

(wave crashing)

(electric guitar music)

Chaste, clean water.

There's milk always on two sides

where the rip gets sucked out.

You go in the middle where that clarity and clean water is,

you always gotta swim and find the clean spots,

'cause that's when you're gonna get that clean open wave.

We got a clear, super clear spot right now.

If you can look, it's like see-through blue.

There was some three foot, four foot sets,

like crystal clear texture of the water.

The wind blowing straight off shore.

It was magic.

Rosa, Tharin, bald head Rosa.

We got a lot of them.

JMV, Tharin.

- [Bald Guy] Bald Brothers.

- Oh, Junior.

We're gonna get action right now, um, ready?

A little underwater right now.

We were out there for three hours

with perfect conditions.

You know, and a three hour drive all the way out here,

makes it worth it, so I can't wait

to get back on the computer, check 'em out,

look at the footage, and see what kind of goods

that we can put in the gallery.

Let other people see the beauty.

When the waves are junk, or onshore,

gives me time to go on my computer and get my stuff done.

Yeah, I shoot thousands of photos sometimes in a day,

and then video, probably 16 gigabytes, 32, whatever.

So there's a lot of work behind the scenes

that I gotta do, and that's why it's nice

when it's onshore ugly so I can catch up

on all the things I need to do.

(building music)

My wife came home with a picture of a wave,

and I said, "Honey, what are you doing

"buying a picture of a wave?

"I've surfed the shorebreak all my life,

"I can get a picture like that."

That's the true beginning, it struck a nerve in me,

going, "Honey, I'm gonna get that picture."

That's seriously how it all started,

is my wife brought a picture home of a wave

and I told her, "What are you spending money on that?

"I'm gonna go out there, I'm gonna get a killer picture

"from inside the tube."

This was shot from the beach.

"I wanna get one inside the barrel

"showing the mean power, raw beauty of this wave breaking."

I had a small camera, an SD500, with $150 housing

I bought on amazon.com, and I went out,

I started taking one picture at a time.

In big shorebreak, and people are wondering,

"What the heck is this guy doing?"

No one was doing it.

No one was shooting shorebreak.

Just shorebreak, waves.

They were all shooting Pipeline.

They were shooting backdoor, they were trying

to get the cover shot for Surfer magazine, Surfing magazine.

I thought, I love shorebreak, I used to surf the shorebreak,

that's my comfort zone, that's where I'm gonna go play.

So I started playing,

and I started taking pictures and I shared it

with my brother, I shared it with my wife,

I shared it with my family.

And they're like, "Holy cow, I've never seen that before.

"I've never seen the sand sucking up

"inside of a tube like that before."

I told my wife, "I'm gonna spend $4,000

"and get a better camera,

"a professional camera,

"and start taking photos and seeing where it'll go."

So this is, this was taken a few months ago.

I like the shadow line inside here and the sand clouds

that are actually getting sucked up in the wave.

Just makes it look more, well, not more gnarly,

but gnarly like it should be.

Tharin Rosa shot this image.

Big large set, probably 10 foot high, got two faces.

This is about four foot and about a 10 foot top

coming over and I love these days

'cause all the water comes and just heaves on the sand.

And this actually is the shot from my camera,

straight on of this wave coming in,

and it just gives you another angle,

and to go back home and put this on the screen,

look at it and go, "Wow."

I mean, that's kind of like the icing on the cake for me.

Chris Kinkade took a huge flat slab,

I'm trying to of course get the shot,

hold out as long as I can before I try

to sneak out the back of the wave.

I mean, honestly, I look at this and I go,

"Wow, that's like a big wall."

Wedding photography.

No, this is just two turtles, honus,

actually looking like they're sort of, kind of,

well, I guess they are kind of holding hands

and going for a little kiss.

It's called Honu love.

Once I went back to the computer and looked at it,

I just, I couldn't believe it, I was like,

"Oh my gosh, look at, they're getting ready to kiss."

It's a total keeper, and it's one of our top sellers now.

(laughing)

I mean, this is just crazy.

So Johnny tried to take off, and he just got,

a backwash hit, he just got lit up.

Flew way into the top of the wave,

and he's just kind of like stuck there.

And his expression kind of says it all.

And luckily I had the flash on, so it just,

it lit him up in the face of this wave.

A little bit a luck, and it, boom, it just came

and there it was, so it has the rainbow,

the lipline, of course the beautiful mountains and sky.

What a magical shot, I was totally stoked to get this shot.

I just actually put it up in the gallery.

This is a shot that JMV took.

This is a good definition of a slab,

just fat shorebreak barrel.

I'd say it's probably about six foot thick right here

and through the top of it.

All the water is just pushing on the shore.

Beautiful sunny day.

So this is an image called No Way Out.

And if you look way in the back there,

you can see the sand, and in the front here,

sand from just the lip hitting it, just blasting up.

Kinda gotta have a good timing of closing your eyes

right before the sand gets blasted in your eyes.

Gallery-worthy is just something tack,

for me, tack sharp, it's clean, it's got something

that moves me.

You know, of course, this doesn't have backdrops,

but backdrops, coconut trees, mountains.

Hawaii has everything, and I'm just here to document it, so.

When Mother Nature is delivering,

I'm always out there trying to capture it.

This is brahddah Jesse King, who is a lifeguard,

awesome lifeguard, and he is the dude

that was out there when I had my first camera.

And Jesse's still around today,

charging and saving lives.

So right here, I'm in front of the wave,

not the back, the front breaks

and then it causes the turbines to spin

and it makes these crazy round spiral things.

The air needs to go somewhere so it makes these cool ropes.

You gotta get beat up to get this shot.

You, there's no way of making it out,

you're gonna get smashed.

Right here, reflecting, and the shoreline,

and the trees and everything right here on the side.

Got these translucence, I mean it almost looks

like an ice sculpture.

So this one, yeah, I was able to reach up high

with a pole and get a different angle.

This is a shot of Flynn Novak at Keiki.

Flynn is just sneaking right through the tube.

Just a cool perspective, different angle.

It's breathtaking. (laughs)

It is absolutely the coolest feeling

when these things come cruising by.

They're so massive, like a school bus.

I tell you, there's not much that gets my heart pumping

like a couple whales swimming by.

Just so happens the barrel decided

to make a perfect arc right around the sun.

There's definitely luck involved.

But you have to be there.

If you don't put yourself there,

you're not gonna get anything.

The right place at the right time, boom.

This is classic Landon McNamara

taking off, grabbing a rail on a solid

20 foot plus Waimea Bay wave,

which is just heavy, I mean, look at the size of this thing.

It's so gnarly, and he rode it all the way down,

he skimmed all the way across this wave.

Andre Botha, he was a two time boogie board champ.

Charges the biggest shorebreak waves, Pipeline, you name it.

He's a beast, he's a total beast, and a very good guy.

Just saved a life this year at Pipeline actually.

None other than John John Florence

doing a little Superman jump here.

So I took this from Kathy's house on the point,

hit a bump, and poom, he got launched.

Here's Flynn again.

Just, he's tall.

This is a very big barrel and Flynn charges the shorebreak,

you know, I give him props.

I used to do that when I was a grom

and now Flynn has been taking off

and pulling into big shorebreak waves,

that honestly most people don't wanna do.

It's called King Kamehameha.

Of course it's got the Hawaiian colors,

you know, orange and the yellow and the reds.

But if you look close in this shot, you can actually see

what looks like King Kamehameha, it's got a cape,

got a pole in the back or a spear, a helmet.

He's actually kind of like sitting down with a spear

and his cape is right here.

I had to make a decision at one point.

And am I gonna pursue this photography business

that I think is gonna thrive?

I had a, honestly, I didn't have any reservations.

I was 100% confident that this career, I felt,

this career's gonna take off.

(surf rock guitar music)

Coming in, it's just, it's all rocks,

there's no sand, and sets were just coming

it was surging, and I, cool as I wanted to be,

or try to act, I got lit up.

Onto the rocks, boom, boom, and I just put my hands out,

luckily my hands hit the reef.

It's gnarly, but it's really good out there,

so I'm just gonna keep going and keep trying.

Get something good.

Look at this wave, look, look at that, look!

(laughs)

I want to get behind Flynn

without his board getting spray on me

as he bottom turns and pulls in.

So I could get a look from behind him, shooting down.

I might go back and swap again

and get the little camera

'cause it's actually looking better.

In fact I might even get my D4, my tank.

Take that out.

(upbeat music)

I can't give him a complete 10,

if he totally pulled it, I would give him a 10

but I give him a nine half, 9.75.

- But WSL, that's situational too,

so if you're surfing a closed out beach ray

three section barrel.

- WSL they would have frickin' gave him the rip.

I think it was insane.

- For shorebreak, that's a make.

- Hands down 10 for shorebreak.

But WSL they would have gave him the bird, dude,

I know it.

So you know, the cool thing about this shot is,

out of all the shots, is it happened two hours ago.

We were actually in the water catching these beautiful pits,

you know, big barrels, so.

It's live.

We can share it and say, "Hey, this was from today.

"I ran, this guy holds on just for months,

"I don't know what he's doing, he's a--"

(laughing)

- [Voiceover] Everybody has a--

- I got, it has to last me through summer.

(laughs) This guy is like, "This morning."

I'm like, "No!"

- I love to get the stuff out fresh.

And I'll still hold on to some nuggets.

Honestly, we didn't even look at the video.

Look at that, I mean, this is pretty close to perfect.

And we haven't even touched the videos.

We got two cards of videos.

Two cards of stills that we shot with a pole camera

and a regular housing.

So there's so much, and it was in a two hour window.

I could sit here for the next 24 hours and edit,

if I really wanted to, and pull out a lot of keepers.

It was a whole new career,

something I've never done before,

nobody was doing at that time, shooting waves,

just shorebreak waves, empty waves, not surfers.

You know, and I went for it.

I went out at 5:30 in the morning

with a flash, and I had another camera sitting on the beach

to trade in after I shot flash for an hour in the morning.

Nobody around, I'd go to these spots

where no one is around, and I would just go out there,

and I would shoot for hours, and I'd go back out

in the afternoon, and then I'd go back out

in the evening with a flash.

So, I put in so much time, not 'cause I had to,

'cause I wanted to.

I couldn't wait to go home and see the shots.

(chiming music)

I took some pictures of this sunrise

with these waves backwashing

and just gorgeous looking images

that I felt were very artistic

and worthy and crazy.

At that time I was shooting for Surfer magazine,

they were paying me a retainer to send them pictures

of waves, actually, and um,

so I had three keepers I felt that were just,

to me they were mind-boggling.

I was, I shared it with, I emailed it to my mom

and I'm like, "Don't show anybody,

"don't send it to anybody, you know, these are special!

"I don't want anyone to get their hands on it."

Sent it to Surfer magazine, and they responded

by saying, "Oh, cool,

"we'll let you know if we use them."

I'm like, "Are you kidding me?

"These are the craziest shots I've ever taken!"

So sure enough, I swear it was less

than a month or something,

I think, National Geographic contacted me

for the same image that I sent to Surfer magazine

and wanted to run a two page spread

of this image called Marlin which was a backwash

that I couldn't believe they wanted it.

I'm like, I mean, I knew it was a special thing,

and for Surfer to just pass up

and then National Geographic to come and take it

and pay me for a two page spread, I was blown away,

I was stoked.

I had a gut feeling that it was a special image.

Yes!

I would, I swear I would have paid them money

to get in National Geographic,

here now I got a two page spread.

I mean, something I can carry to the grave

and I'm totally tickled and excited about that.

I was able to go and do something I love for a living.

We're gonna go to Keiki, we're gonna assess the situation,

I think it's four to six foot, gnarly, huge.

I got one for Derek, I got one for me,

and I have a backup.

You don't want it to repel, you want it to actually stay wet

so there's a film of water, real thin film of water

that the camera sees right through.

So you don't want to wax it and have it bead,

'cause it'll bead up, and you'll have little water drops.

What you're supposed to do, and I do, is I lick it.

Probably at least five times, and I didn't do this one

because I figure I'm gonna let you do the licking.

- [Voiceover] Right!

- And I'll, it's pretty self-explanatory,

I mean you grab this thing and you, you get saliva.

And you do your business.

It's the weirdest thing, and you let it dry.

- Awesome.

All right, here we go.

(laughing)

- It's the best way to keep drops off of your port

on any, make sure you have some kind of,

you gotta have good saliva, too.

- [Derek] Yeah.

- You know what I mean, like kind of like the milky,

kind of you know, yogurt.

- [Derek] Gross.

- The thicker it is the more you get a better film.

- [Derek] Oh, man.

- I know, it is gross.

Hey, whatever.

Okay, so.

(light electronic music)

- [Voiceover] Oh!

- Oh my gosh!

That's so much water.

Pick that, ahoy! (laughs)

That is, that's juicy, dude.

Absolutely, but that from the beach, even.

- [Derek] Yeah yeah yeah yeah.

- I mean you, I don't think, you don't want to get in there.

Like I'd be scared of...

That's gnarly, did you see that last one?

- You should have seen the Clark Little wanabee just now.

- [Clark] Did he go out?

- He almost drowned.

- No joke?

- Barely made it in and then he was on all fours

dragging on the way up.

- [Clark] Really?

- Yeah, he almost drowned.

- This is maxing right now, I think,

those sets were a little bit disturbing.

I think Jacob's gonna go out and bugger it,

he's all into it.

So that's good, I mean, get a subject in these right now.

As is, no sun, it's gonna look radical.

Oh gosh, I'm gonna get out there,

it's gonna be insane today.

(hooting)

Look how it's settled?

And that thing's just gonna throw

everything and the kitchen sink.

Ah! (laughing)

That thing is juicy.

Holy mackerel.

(can spraying)

Might be a long day, right?

(sputtering)

(exhaling)

Did I get everything?

Hoo!

(waves crashing)

We might try to go out and just catch a couple.

Um, you know, in between sets,

if the set comes we just go outside

and we'll see what happens, I don't know.

When it's this big, every man for himself really.

It's a little scary, I'll be honest.

I mean I'm not totally in my comfort zone.

I mean, I like it big, but it's maxing

like over the size of, the zone where it breaks,

it's breaking outside of that, so.

It's kind of like you're, never know what you're gonna get,

Mother Nature, I just, I'm gonna keep my fingers crossed

and hope I get something.

Yeah, yeah, I saw, but that last one

I'm hoping was just a rogue set.

- [Derek] No it is, it's just a rogue set.

(laughing)

- Otherwise that does not look appealing.

Like I don't even want to be out there.

(clapping and guitar music)

- That was a gnarly one, oh my gosh.

(propellers whirring)

- And I swear, I was in the pocket, dude

on a couple beasts.

(sighs)

- [Derek] Can I get your card?

- Derek, dude, there was about six or eight,

that first one, it backwashed, and I was just like this.

And he was going all the way around and,

you see that?

I tell you, Derek, this is probably ultimate Keiki

for you to see like, you know what I mean,

'cause sometimes it's just one time out of this year

that it'll get this ripe, you know what I mean.

Just, phoom, lit,

I swear, like right over my head

and I was sitting there in the pit.

Crazy, insane kind.

I was out of my comfort zone a little bit on the,

no, you saw it, it was gnarly.

(electric guitar music)

Anyway, long story short, it turned out to be an insane day.

The one or two ones that came in were just incredible.

I love being out there.

I love being in the ocean.

I was, I want to be out there, I don't have to be out there.

I can't wait to get out there!

The night before, I can't wait to check the swell

and, you know, just get ready to jump in, in the morning.

Start texting my friends, and just like,

I mean I am really excited, passionate about shorebreak.

I love getting thrown over the falls,

I love getting tossed in the waves

and then bringing the camera with me and getting the shot.

(soft guitar music)

I did my own thing

when it came to shooting waves.

I went out to Pipeline before

and there was 30 photographers, 150 surfers,

I didn't like it.

Yeah, I got a couple cool shots of some surfers,

but I went on my own, and went into the shorebreak

where I wanted to be.

There was no crowd, I could shoot all the waves I wanted

without people being all over the place.

It was big, it was fun, it was powerful.

I could capture shots of inside these big shorebreak waves

that most people couldn't see for themselves,

couldn't put themselves in that situation

to get that shot.

So, I think that's what made people excited about it

is just seeing something so different, so unique,

so powerful yet beautiful.

Nobody was doing it.

So I just kind of jumped on it,

and did what I love.

Once I resigned from the city and county of Honolulu

full time job, that door that was cracked just blew open.

(pulsing music)

It's like coconut trees, perfect barrels,

and sunshine, look at that!

Thing's winding!

What?

Look, another one.

Shee, shee, shee, lines.

Lines, lines, lines.

Oh, gosh, we're gonna have fun.

I mean, it looks so fun.

I used to surf contests over here backside.

Used to have a blast.

Got a little backwash on the inside.

Makaha beach, huh?

That gorgeous?

What's up Ryan?

- Hey!

- How you doing brah?

I figure on this side I might as well say hi, brah.

Oh hey, I only see you from the (mumbles).

Oh la scrappa boy.

- No!

- Ooh, I love it.

Nice to meet you.

The guy with the, with the,

what is it, the guillotine of the year

Or whatever the frickin' hell that thing was,

but it was sick, brah.

- Put him in the choke!

(laughing)

- I think I better do this,

but I'm gonna buy you like scrap after.

- Oh no.

- Yeah, yeah, cool.

Right on brah, easy, solid.

Right on brah.

The clarity, the offshore winds is so sick over there.

- [Voiceover] I don't know.

- We gotta roll but good to see you again, yeah.

Take care, and then right on frame, brah.

I'll check you out later, I'll try to come back,

it'll be fun to do.

- Yeah, yeah.

- I'll, uh, okay, nice to meet you.

Yeah I don't know, is it going right now.

Nice to meet you.

How you doing, brah?

- Man, him so wow.

- What's your name?

- Alika, bro.

- Alika, nice to meet you Alika.

How you, brah?

Victor, nice to meet you Victor.

Hey how's it?

Victor junior, right on buddy.

Solid, boo.

Well hopefully we gonna get some action today, huh?

(water rushing)

(soft bass music)

(guitar music)

Um, we're taking him to go swim with the sharks.

With no cage.

Out at Haleiwa.

- I'm just lost for words, really.

I mean, what I'm about to do is like really big for me.

You know, it's my first time actually swimming ever

with a shark.

I've seen sharks surfing, like, got bit by a shark,

but I never willingly went swimming with a shark

so it'll be a good experience and I think

once I do get the full rundown

I'll feel a lot more comfortable

but for now I'm just tripping.

Mom, guess what I'm about to go do.

I'm gonna go swimming with sharks.

- [Voiceover] No, Julio.

Julio, no.

- (laughing) But I'm going anyway.

- You only have to lose a quart of blood

to lose unconsciousness, and like,

somebody like Colin, you know, who lost his leg?

- [Voiceover] Yeah.

- If Keoni didn't come and rescue him from leftovers,

he would have died.

- There were four of the best surgeons in the world

doing a seminar in Hilo at the time

and I was really lucky that that happened

because they would have stapled me.

The lady's like, "You're lucky that they were there."

But these guys piece by piece put back together everything.

Like, they put back my muscles and all the,

everything they stitched it all back up from inside out.

So I got really lucky.

I feel really safe, I'm with an amazing group of people

and that's the start, you know?

Good vibes and the day will be good.

It started off right and we're gonna end right.

- [Man] I like it, I like it, well let's get out there.

- Clean water, glass, good reflections.

Sun is shining, not a cloud in the sky basically.

So it's gonna be really really fun,

good day for Julio to go out for his first time

back with the sharks.

Juan is giving Julu boy a run down

on just shark behavior, what to be on the lookout for,

just kind of informing him, making him feel comfortable

so when he goes out there for his first time back

he'll not be panicking or freaking out or whatever.

I mean, it's a heavy thing.

Two years ago, you know, getting attacked by a tiger

and now going out here with sharks,

probably sandbars, galapagos, possibly tiger, so.

It's gonna be interesting.

And I'm stoked that he's facing his fear

at least regarding, you know, the shark attack

and I think he'll come out of this whole trip

feeling a lot better about, you know, sharks and everything.

- You want to be really relaxed, really calm.

If you use your fins to kick,

I want to see you bring your fins down a little bit

below the water line, and then kick,

instead of kicking hard at the surface

'cause you're creating a lot of bubbles

and a lot of splashing.

- [Clark] Oh, there they are, brother!

Holy macaroni and cheese!

Woo!

- I mean, I don't want to do this.

Oh well.

(slow piano music)

(soft music)

I was scared, definitely.

But now that I got in the water

and got to cruise with them a little bit,

it definitely felt good.

Clears my mind, and I kinda like made sure

I didn't overreact or, you know, get the heart rate pumping

'cause I guess they can sense that,

so I tried to stay calm and that was good.

- He was super calm in the water, very efficient

with his movements, and the sharks kind of like

just treated him as an equal predator, you know,

which is really what we are, and you know,

it can be a really beautiful, peaceful interaction

you know, if you approach it the right way.

- My mom's probably definitely mad at me,

but once I get home and I'm like, "I made it home,"

she'll be solid.

I've always had a super deep fear about sharks

but I never really told my friends about it

because like, I mean, it's not something to laugh about

'cause I got eaten by one, but,

it's just, it's one of those things that I have to deal with

on my own, like, I never went to a therapist,

I never talked to anyone about my problems,

I kind of dealt with it on my own mentally

and kept it bottled up inside of me, so.

- [Voiceover] Yeah.

- To be out here today and to be swimming with these sharks

it's kind of crazy.

It's definitely a big deal, and I feel,

I feel like that was good enough, you know,

like I respect those animals so much

that I just wanna, you know, that's their place,

this is their place and I give them their space.

(chuckles) Definitely.

(piano music)

- [Clark] Oh!

- [Voiceover] I'm like Rob.

- He didn't make it, dude.

- [Voiceover] I know.

- [Clark] That looked like you, goofy foot and everything.

- I could do that.

Oh, look at that.

That looks like bigger than it's big.

- I like the suck up.

- [Man] He kind of, over, the drop.

(camera clicking)

- Okay, so anyway, my nickname is Turbo.

Yeah, Turbo, so I've always been a hyper kind of guy.

- Clark's middle name is Marfield.

So his nickname for a little while was Marf.

- There's just a weird, a strange dichotomy

between Clark and Brock, they both have this,

sort of need for adrenaline, and you know,

it's like built into their psyches somehow.

- And he hated Marf, he hated it.

So what he started doing was, he's a really crazy driver,

like he's super gnarly, super gnarly, if he wants to be.

- You know, Clark, when we were kids, Clark was never one

to paddle the outer reef and surf big waves,

but, he was never scared of big gnarly shorebreaks

or heavy, intense waves.

He just didn't like the big stuff where he could drown.

He liked to be more in shallow water and get smashed.

- And so what he used to do, is like pass five cars

at a time and yell, "Turbo Little!"

Pretty much started calling himself Turbo.

- And, you know, Brock was sort of the opposite.

He liked that big, deep water stuff

and he felt fine being underwater, you know,

out of control.

- But then it actually caught on

'cause he was kind of nuts.

And so everyone just started calling him Turbo.

So he transformed from Marf into Turbo.

And that's how Turbo was started.

- If they require a middle initial I can deal with it.

But if they require the whole middle name,

I'm a little skeptic, like,

I'm not sure if I can put Marfield on that.

- Clark kind of captures images of things

that are beyond, they're really beyond what the surfers see

because we're not really taking in the look

and trying to keep that picture in our head,

we're just trying to go with the wave and make it.

- And for a long time, I was like, "I refuse to say Turbo"

and da da da da da, 'cause it was too embarrassing

that he named himself, but after years,

decades have gone by, I can partake

in calling him Turbo as well.

- The pictures Clark takes are on waves that we can't surf,

that we can't make, that, you know, it's almost like

that in your head, you think what if you could

ride that wave and you could make that barrel,

and that's kind of the pictures that Clark's getting,

it's sort of the unmakeable impossible situation

captured in still frame.

- It's not the strongest name.

My mom says, "It's good, it's the horse traders, from--"

- [Voiceover] Yeah, the horse stealers!

- The horse stealers, oh, whatever.

I don't care if it's a family name, you know what I mean,

I like Turbo better.

Why couldn't she just name me Clark Turbo Little?

That's what it should be, that sounds so good.

- Clark skipped over to Waialua in seventh or eight grade,

and I didn't skip over to Waialua 'til like 10th grade

or 11th grade, and so, Clark's pidgin

started taking place in seventh-ish, eighth grade,

whereas I didn't partake in pidgin

until ninth, 10th, 11th grade, whatever grade it was.

- Brah, you know you (speaking foreign language).

- [Brock] Somebody knows us...

(camera clicking)

- Come on.

What, what what bah?

- [Voiceover] You look like Eric Napoleon.

(pulsing music)

- I did it 'cause I love doing it.

And honestly, I didn't know,

I didn't have any intent to become a full time photographer,

I just wanted that picture for the house.

No, but I just did something that,

I said it a million times, I mean, I enjoy doing it,

I loved to go out, it's evolved, it happened.

It, I started posting pictures of waves and things

and it just happened.

People ask me, "Hey, what did you do, how did you do it?"

Jeez, I didn't have a plan.

I just did something I loved and I followed my passion

and it turned into a career.

I can push a button and have it go out

to a million people.

Hey, that helps, you know, and things like that.

I mean the social media nowadays, it's the now

and it's another avenue for me to share my passion

and to share my work with one push of the button.

It's pretty crazy.

- Learning to use the camera, I mean, that's all

kind of secondary, you know, as far as getting surf images.

Just from my experience, making surf movies,

thinking about the F stop, and you know,

making sure you got all your shutter speed

all the stuff in the right place,

once you have that, that's all kind of

the technical stuff, but then, really the image

and the beauty of the image comes

from where you place yourself

and years of years of paddling out and watching your friends

and sometimes you even go like this 'cause you're pretending

like you're making a movie.

But you just, watch 'em go by or do an aerial

over your head or something, and you kind of,

"Ah, if that was in a movie it'd be so cool."

So when you get a camera in your hand,

as a surfer growing up, you already know

exactly where you want to be.

And so that placement, but you know, Clark Little

had a unique thing, where he was more nuts

than all of us, and definitely knew the Waimea shorebreak

better than anybody that I've ever known

as far as being able to take it on the head out there.

(chill music)

- Yeah, it all depends, you're running on the dry sand

or you're in a big shallow wave as it's sucking up.

It, a lot of it is timing, and it's almost instinctive

of where you're gonna be, where you're gonna run,

where your camera's gonna be pointed.

It just comes, honestly comes natural.

I think you gotta have it or you don't have it, you know?

I mean 'cause you can seriously get injured.

I mean if you mistime some of these waves

I mean the camera can hit your head,

you can get sucked over the falls

and I'm sure break your neck

and there's a lot of different things

that could happen or go wrong.

So timing is very important,

it's just putting yourself in the right spot.

Believe it or not, it's like the eye of a hurricane.

If you get into the heaviest, sickest, gnarliest part

of a wave as it's breaking over,

that's the safest spot to be,

because for some reason, it's the softest,

it's the craziest, but it's like the eye of the hurricane.

You're in the calm of the storm, it's crazy.

So, anyway, that's where I try to get

into that heart of the beast

and believe it or not, it can be,

actually almost can go quiet inside

of a big shorebreak wave like that

and of course hell breaks loose once

you wipe out you get sucked over the falls

and you get sucked up 50 feet up the beach,

and, but I like that part of it.

I love that part of it.

I wanna get tossed around and screaming at my friends,

"Ha, look how far I got sucked up the beach!"

I mean, seriously, I just love getting tossed around

and there's a big difference from having to be there

and wanting to be there.

That's a big part of it,

is just not mind getting sucked over the falls.

To get the shot.

There's one or two times I kept on going,

"Maybe I shouldn't have went out," you know what I mean?

But most of the time I'm coming out

with a smile on my face.

(rock music)

I'm looking for something unique every time I go out.

You know, I want something different,

I want something gnarly,

I want something heavy, I want something scary, I want,

I want the whole package, I want something beautiful.

So if I can get all of these things in one image,

then I've done my job.

(mellow rock music)

Joe!

Look at this kid!

Ha ha ha!

Woo, that's just, that's what it's all about.

Taking off and getting blasted.

Best feeling in the world.

I'm spent, I can barely walk up these steps.

After running, I'm tired, I'm so tired.

My body just shut down.

I mean, I'm a little sore.

Both my hips, ankles, my back.

I'm still able to do what I love.

And that's shorebreak.

("Asking For It" by Shinedown)

♫ Can I have a moment of your time

♫ Just a single second so you see

♫ That, indeed, we'll be leaving you behind

♫ Far across that line

♫ Turn it up so you can hear the bells

♫ Crashing through the clouds

♫ Acid rain down the drain

♫ We know all too well

♫ It's a living hell

♫ Careful what you say and who you say it, who you say it to

♫ Careful what you say and who you say it to

♫ Maybe you talk too much

♫ And you were asking for it, asking for it, asking

♫ You can blame bad luck

♫ But you were asking for it, asking for it, asking

♫ When all is said and done

♫ You need to tie your tongue

♫ Cause when you spit on everyone

♫ You are, you are you know you're asking for it

♫ Asking for it, asking

♫ Caught up in the gutter once again

♫ Thrashing through the mud

♫ Flowin' lies, cuttin' ties

♫ Til the sidewalk ends

♫ And the truth begins

♫ Power through the point of no return

♫ Famously deranged

♫ All the same hope you change

♫ If the worm is gonna turn

♫ It's none of my concern

♫ Careful what you say and who you say it, who you say it to

♫ Careful what you say and who you say it to

♫ Maybe you talk too much

♫ And you were asking for it, asking for it, asking

♫ You can blame bad luck

♫ But you were asking for it, asking for it, asking

♫ When all is said and done

♫ You need to tie your tongue

♫ Cause when you spit on everyone

♫ You are, you are you know you're asking for it

♫ Asking for it, asking ♫

(vocalizing)

♫ You are, you are, you are, you are

♫ You are asking for it

♫ You are, you are, you are, you are

♫ You are asking for it

♫ Careful what you say and who you say it, who you say it to

♫ Careful what you say and who you say it to

♫ Maybe you talk too much

♫ And you were asking for it, asking for it, asking

♫ You can blame bad luck

♫ But you were asking for it, asking for it, asking

♫ When all is said and done

♫ You need to tie your tongue

♫ Cause when you spit on everyone

♫ You are, you are you know you're asking for it

♫ Asking for it, asking

♫ You know you're asking for it, asking for it

♫ You know you're asking for it, asking ♫