All language subtitles for Hidden.Aegean.2023.1080p.WEBRip.x264-RARBG.eng

It is known

for one of the best preserved
Roman ruins

in the world.

But this isn't Italy.

It's steeped
in Greek mythology.

A place where Homer's epics
come to life.

But it's not Greece.

It's where a succession
of historic empires

have left their mark

and pagan, Christian, Muslim

and Jewish cultures
have collided

and coexisted.

A sprawling coastline
of incredible beauty,

with stunning landscapes,
endless beaches,

and clear turquoise waters

that have been traversed
for millennia.

Yet they're still waiting
to be discovered.

It's a destination
that is equally alluring

and surprising,

where you can
explore the past,

live in the present,

and ponder the future.

I'm Peter Greenberg,

and this is Turkey's
Hidden Aegean.

Covering nearly
83,000 square miles,

the Aegean Sea has supported

some of the greatest
civilizations in history.

Including the Roman,
Byzantine,

and Ottoman empires.

Surrounded by Greece
to the north and west,

and the Mediterranean
to the south,

the east shore of the Aegean
is bounded by Turkey.

This 1,700-mile-long
stretch of coastline

marks the western edge
of Asia Minor,

the Roman alias
for the Anatolian peninsula,

which has figured
so prominently in history.

But where ancient armies
once marched and clashed,

now only bracing winds
off the Aegean

buffet the ruins of the past.

Historically, the sea
was more of a connection

than a barrier,

as it was faster and more
convenient to travel by boat,

making the ancient regions now
defined as Greece and Turkey

more closely intertwined.

I started my journey

at the northern boundary
of the Aegean.

The Dardanelles.

Because of
its strategic location

between two continents,

Europe and Asia,

and between two seas,

the Black and the Aegean,

this area was settled
for thousands of years.

It was also witness
to countless wars,

including the nearby
battlefields of Gallipoli,

which draws most visitors
to this region.

But I'm here to explore
something else

that you might not expect
to find in Turkey.

You may remember
the legendary battle of Troy

from high school
Greek mythology,

when the invading Greeks
built a huge wooden horse,

filled it with soldiers

and rolled it up
to the gates of the city,

sneaking their soldiers inside
and defeating the Trojans.

While the horse may be
a bit of mythology

and Hollywood fantasy,

the 5,000-year-old city
is real

and here in Turkey.

Now we are walking
on Troy's walls.

-Be careful.
-Yep.

Archaeologist Rustem Aslan

is director
of the Troy excavation

and has been working
on this site since 1988.

Peter, look, this wall.

You can see the damages
through the earthquake.

And then
that wall over there?

That's a thousand years
older than this wall.

-Wow.
-Which means

they built and rebuilt...

Again and again.

Again, and in 3,000 years,

we have nine different cities
on top of each other.

The stacked cities look like
a layer cake of history

in cross section,

with the oldest cities
on the bottom

and the newest at the top.

Excavations here
have uncovered artifacts

from the legendary Trojan War
in the sixth layer,

dating back to 1200 B.C.

But you're telling me
that Troy

actually happened here,
not in Greece.

Not in Greece, it's happened,
everything's here.

So everything I learned
in high school was wrong.

-Yes, maybe.
-Wrong.

-Yes.
-But...

what does that make
Homer's Iliad,fiction?

There's some part
of the Iliad

that's based
on historical event.

So it's a historical novel.

You can say that, yes.

But everything you're excavating
is confirming to you

that it really did happen here.

Everything's happened here.

Besides its strategic
geographical location,

the ancient city
sat high on a hill,

making it easier to defend.

It also may have benefited
from theetesians,

which means
"annual winds" in Greek,

gusting from the northeast

and making access to Troy
more difficult

for invading ships

and intrepid explorers.

The ancient city
was first discovered

by a German architect
and treasure hunter

named Heinrich Schliemann,

who left his mark
on the site in many ways.

Now we are looking
to the Schliemann Trench.

He began his first
official exploration in 1871.

The top of the trees
was a very high mound.

And he started cutting them.

Yes, he cut to the bedrock

and through the whole side.

And what
did he find down there?

He found here
actually not much,

but let me show where he found
and what he stole.

-He stole?
-Yes.

Schliemann's search for the
legendary treasure of Priam

did not adhere
to the methodical

architectural techniques
used today,

which allowed important
historical information

and artifacts to be lost,
destroyed or stolen.

And when Schliemann
excavated here,

he found over there
at those trees...

-Over there?
-Yes.

...inside of Troy two walls,
the treasure.

And what was in there?

It was a very big treasure.

It was more than 10,000 pieces.

Gold, silver,
electron bronze.

And he smuggled from Turkey

first to Athens

and then to Germany.

And then what happened?

Just after the Second World War,

all the treasure
was disappeared.

No chance of getting it back?

Schliemann's
historic photographs

show the treasures,

including an ancient
headpiece worn by his wife

that went missing
for nearly 50 years,

until it was discovered
that Russian soldiers

had taken the treasures
back to Moscow,

where they're now
being displayed

in the Pushkin Museum.

These treasures
may never be returned.

But in 2018,
the Troy Museum was built

adjacent to the ancient city

to collect and display
the other artifacts

that have been
discovered here.

Different levels of the museum

reflect the different layers
of this site,

illustrating the complicated
history of this area,

as well as
the painstaking process

of restoring thousands
of ancient artifacts

that will continue
to reveal the true story

of this legendary city.

South of Troy is Mount Ida,

a verdant peak, where
Homer's writing suggested

that Zeus and his wife Hera
watched the battle of Troy.

The mountain offers

commanding views
of the Aegean.

But it's hard
to make out Troy,

as it's almost 20 miles away.

What you can see is orderly
groves of olive trees

blanketing the base
of the mountain

in an area
that has been called

the Olive Riviera.

Tucked in amongst
the olive groves

is Adatepe,

a village where you'll find
old Greek houses

and an unusual
tasting opportunity.

But I'm not talking
about ice cream.

Later.

So head past the stands
at the base of the village.

Then up the hill

to the narrow winding streets

towards the end of the road.

Be sure to say hello
to all the locals.

And then head towards
a small house

shaded by a dense canopy
of trees.

Hello.

Hello.
Welcome to my village.

-It's a beautiful village.
-Yes.

How long have you been here?

Maybe 35 years.

That's a long time.

Yeah.

Huseyin Meral
came to Adatepe

to retire in the 1980s.

But the preponderance
of olive orchards

inspired him to produce
olive oil,

just as they did
in early Roman times,

by taking a large quantity
of olives,

then lightly
stone-grinding them

to produce
the highest quality oil.

-That's what this is?
-Yeah, that's it.

And we call it
the flower of the oil.

How many kilos
of olives in here?

About 20, 30 kilos olives

to get one kilo
of flower of the oil.

So this is high-test olive oil.

Yeah, that's extra virgin.

No, extra extra extra virgin.

-Is it good?
-Yeah.

Would you like taste?

-Sure.
-Yeah, okay.

Huseyin has developed
a regimented process

for tasting olive oil,

which is similar
to wine tasting

and uses the same glasses.

Whoa!

But with a generous
serving of olive oil.

This is the first time
I've toasted olive oil.

-You do like the wine?
-Yeah.

You take some and then you...

Ah.

And then you take some air.

And then you take the taste.

Just a little, right?

And first you have to
look at the color.

Beautiful.

And then you have to...

Yep.

Huseyin has
lots of instructions,

and it's obvious he also
has something that I lack.

Patience.

-Okay, here we go. Ready?
-Yeah.

Finally, we get to taste it.

I only hope that
I'm doing it correctly.

The swishing...
the breathing...

Nice.

Very smooth.

You're still going.

You're still going.

Homer referred to olive oil
as liquid gold.

And clearly Huseyin agrees.

I like that olive oil.

I think you do.
I think I do.

Thank you.

The village of Adatepe
and Huseyin

have been greatly influenced
by Greek and Roman culture,

and that didn't stop here.

Eighty miles from Adatepe,
you can find

the Greco-Roman city
of Pergamon,

with striking ruins
perched high on a hilltop,

towering over the modern town
of Bergama below.

While the impressive
temple of Trajan

and the 10,000-seat theater

draped dramatically
down the hillside

may catch your eye,

you can easily miss

what this ancient city
was best known for.

A library that
was once considered

one of the world's
main centers of learning.

Only the rubble
foundation remains,

but in the third century B.C.,

it held over 200,000 volumes,

rivaling the great library
in Alexandria.

This infuriated King Ptolemy,

so he forbade the export
of Egyptian papyrus

used for scrolls,

forcing Pergamon
to use animal skins

to create writing materials.

Although the tradition
of making parchment

is still practiced
by an old master

and his young apprentice,

today Bergama
may be best known

for traditional
Turkish carpets.

In small towns like Bergama,

I like to get off
the tourist track

and discover where
the locals like to eat.

And the best place to find
a local who speaks English

is often
the nearest carpet seller.

Hello.

-Hi. How are you?
-Hi.

-Good.
-Nice to meet you.

Peter. Nice to meet you.

-My mother.
-Ah! Hi, Mom.

-She's here.
-Mama.

Mama. Okay, beautiful.

Let me show you
some of our rugs,

which are from Bergama area.

I'm sure Feral Emir
and her mama

will know the best places
to eat,

as they've had a store
in Bergama

since the 1960s.

Beautiful.

-Another one.
-They are always same design

but always the tools
are different as you see.

But it still may be
a challenge to get lunch...

What do you think?
Did you like them?

-Nice.
-Yes.

...as Turkish carpet sellers
rarely take no for an answer.

In any language.

This is another
Bergama carpet.

We call it Arpadaria...

Arpadaria.

And with these two
double-teaming me,

I can't hold out for long.

But Feral can toss
these heavy carpets all day.

So I might have a chance.

Peter, would you like
apple tea

or would you like a rug?

Maybe?

Well, you know what,
apple tea later,

rug later, but we're
going to get some lunch.

I know a place, follow me.

Bergama has great places
for food.

Like this shop that serves
fresh, creamy cheese

smothered in honey.

And it's known for its
meatballs, called kofte.

But Feral takes me
to try a local dish

with an interesting name.

Patlicanchigirtma ,

which translates
to "screaming eggplant,"

and a family restaurant
run by Abdullah Gozkaya

and his son, Muhsin.

-Muhsin, Peter.
-Nice to meet you.

-Nice to meet you.
-Local chef.

He prepares
aubergine chigirtma.

-Eggplant.
-Eggplant.

And the name comes from,

when we put it into
boiling-hot olive oil,

it is screaming.

Whooo!Like that.

-It almost explodes, okay.
-Yeah, if you like to see?

Yeah, let's do it.
All right. What's cooking?

This is soup.

What kind of soup?

-This is sheep.
-Sheep?

Yes.

I actually prefer it
when my soup

doesn't look back at me,

so I'm going to stick
with thechigirtma .

Okay, ready? Just put it in?

Whoa!

-Oh! Very dangerous.
-I know.

-It's angry.
-Yes.

With this boiling-hot oil,

it's not just
the eggplant that's screaming.

-Oh, man, I can feel it.
-Yes.

And in no time,
it's nicely browned

and ready to come out.

-They're still screaming at me.
-Yes.

Then we quickly
fry some green peppers.

-Just throw them in?
-Yes.

Attention, please.

And tomatoes with garlic.

Can never have enough garlic.

Okay. We got it.

And put it all together.

So you put the peppers
on the eggplants?

Okay.

-Good.
-Good.

Oh, yeah, look at that.

-The whole thing?
-Yes.

The whole thing!

-Done.
-This is chigirtma.

Wow. Whoa!

Beautiful.

-Beautiful.
-Yes.

Okay, one for you.

-One for you.
-Thank you.

And two for me.

I like it.

You approve?

-Yeah.
-Good.

There's much more to Bergama

than restaurants
and carpet stores,

as it also has history dating
back thousands of years.

These ancient Roman ruins,
known as the Red Hall,

may have originally been built

as a temple
to the Egyptian gods

in the second century A.D.

But 300 years later...

a Christian basilica was built

inside the massive hall,

one of the infamous seven
churches of the Apocalypse

mentioned in the book
of Revelation.

Bergama also has

the longest-running
outdoor market in Turkey,

which is a popular hangout
for the locals

and filled with much
of what you might expect.

Tea shops, coffee shops.

Yep, and the dog.

But Feral wants to show me

something further
off the beaten path.

What catches
my attention first

is a sign that says
parking costs

seven Turkish lira a day.

-Merhaba.
-Merhaba.

That's about 40 cents.

Definitely not
a New York City rate.

Of course, Feral has
something else in mind.

Surprise!

Carpets.

These are being made

by master weaver and teacher
Hat ice Tok

using a special knot that is
a Bergama tradition.

-Merhaba.
-Peter, may I introduce you

to my friend Hatice?

She is master of knitting.

And she will show us
double knot.

-This is the double knot.
-Gordian knot also we call it.

The term "Gordian knot"

comes from
an ancient Greek legend

about Alexander the Great.

It was such a complex knot
that no one could undo it.

Until Alexander came
and sliced it in half

with a single stroke
of his sword.

The double knot
isn't as complex

but it doesn't look easy.

-Do you want to try?
-Do I want to try this?

-Mm-hmm.
-Okay, I'm coming.

I'm coming.

I'm not an arts
and crafts guy,

so I definitely need
some instruction.

-Double line.
-Double line.

Show you that it should be...

-Then I put that through there?
-Bottom.

Oh, bottom.

-Uh, look at me.
-Yeah.

Watching Hatice, it's clear
she's the master weaver.

Oh, I see.

And I need more practice.

Okay, we'll try again.

-Okay, I do that like so.
-Uh-huh.

Right?

Then I put this down below.

-Uh-huh.
-Yes?

Yes, exactly.

Then I pull it all the way down
and I did it?

Yes.

Wow!

I was able to tie
one double knot,

but there are thousands to go,

so I'll let the pro
finish this carpet.

I'll see you in two weeks,
when it's done.

And even though I won't
be weaving a carpet,

I can't avoid buying one.

Oh, thank you.

Feral may offer
a fair price for her carpets,

but I have a little trick
to make sure I get

the best deal
for my purchases.

-Hello again.
-Hello.

-Now a carpet.
-Now a carpet.

All right, how much
for that one?

This is $700.

$700. All right.

I get the best price by
starting with a credit card.

-American Express?
-American Express?

No.

Mom says no, okay.

Uh... a discount for Visa?

Visa...?

And then I ask
for the cash discount.

All right, how much for cash?

Cash, I can do it
for $600 for you.

-Okay, deal.
-It's good.

-Deal? Thank you.
-Good?

Good. Very good.

Much of the Aegean coast

is dotted with small towns
like Bergama.

But just 70 miles
to the south,

you'll find the thriving
metropolis of Izmir...

...Turkey's
third largest city

and home to the country's
biggest port.

The city's roots
go back 8,500 years.

Once known as the ancient
Greek city of Smyrna,

it was a cosmopolitan
center of trade

that numerous cultures
called home.

During the Roman era
in the 4th century B.C.,

the agora was constructed,

an open-air market

thought to be
the biggest of its kind

in the ancient world.

Today, you can see
its remains,

as well as its
sophisticated Roman plumbing.

And the agora has evolved,
along with the growing city,

into the Kemeralti,

the biggest outdoor market
in Turkey.

Oh, merhaba.

Oh, thanks, man.
Appreciate that.

The Kemeralti is home
to 15,000 shops,

three times the amount

in Istanbul's grand bazaar.

Down these
labyrinthian corridors,

it's easy to get overwhelmed

by the aromas of endless
fresh produce and meat

and the clatter
of artisans at work.

But some of the merchandise
needs to be handled

very carefully.

Ooh, sharp.

Very sharp.

I know. Whoo!

Out on the streets,
it's easy to spot the mosque

soaring above the bazaar.

But right in the middle
of this bustling market,

there's an almost forgotten
hidden corner,

with some amazing history
if you know where to look

or you have someone
to show you.

-Tilda?
-Hi, Peter.

Nice to meet you.

So, where are we going?

Well, come with me,
I'll show you,

because it's not easy
to find on your own.

Once you enter Havra Street,

turn at the fish vendors
and walk less than 50 feet

and you will see
the beginning of a wall.

That's just the first synagogue.

Tilda Koenka is leading me
into the old Jewish quarter,

an almost forgotten enclave
where her mother grew up,

that's filled
with historic synagogues.

Boy, lots of surprises here.

And I have here
even more for you.

Here is something
not everyone sees, Peter.

-You see these three walls?
-Yeah.

These are the outer walls
of three different synagogues.

-Right next to each other.
-Right next to each other.

And you only
have to turn your head

to see a fourth synagogue,

a strange cluster
in the heart of the city.

So why were they
all so close to together?

Well, the Jewish community
did not come to Izmir at once.

They came
in different time periods.

Sometimes even
in different centuries.

Tens of thousands
of Sephardic Jews

made their way
to Ottoman territories

after being expelled
from Spain and Portugal,

at the height
of the Spanish Inquisition.

The Jewish population
in Izmir

peaked at nearly 40,000

at the end of the 18th century.

But as the community dispersed,

the synagogues were abandoned
and almost lost.

But not forgotten.

So, are all the synagogues
in this area

in this state of disrepair?

No. Let me show you.

We know there are nine
synagogues in the area.

We are now working on
restoring as many as we can.

It is a process
that will take years,

but we at least have started.

The Jewish population today,
less than a thousand.

But Tilda's work with
the Jewish Heritage Project

is helping to build
what remains

of these historic synagogues

and their disappearing culture.

You hear that?

Yeah.

Come with me.

This traditional music
is sung in Ladino,

the language
of the Sephardic Jews

who were exiled
from Spain and Portugal.

The song, "Adio Querida,"

is a farewell to a former love

and perhaps a former home.

Most people never see
these hidden synagogues

and never hear this music
in its original language,

but we try to keep them
all alive

so we can celebrate

and remember our history,
our religion, our culture.

It is something that
we should never forget.

Beautiful.
Beautiful, thank you.

-Isn't that great?
-Yeah.

-And you knew all the words.
-Yes.

These hidden synagogues

are an unexpected escape
from the modern city,

but to really get away,
the locals head out

to the nearby Cesme peninsula.

Just an hour west of Izmir,

you'll find the picturesque
town of Alaçat1,

a 19th-century village,

once know for its olive oil
and soothing breezes,

that has now become a mecca
for wind surfing and food.

The cobblestone streets
are lined with small cafes,

and it's not hard to find

a great farm-to-table
restaurant,

sometimes right on the farm.

But I head further east,

into the sprawling farmland
along the coast, near Urla,

using the giant wind turbines

to guide me towards
a piece of history

that few people get to see.

It sounds easy enough.

You just hang a right
before the third turbine,

then follow the dirt road
to the giant olive tree.

-Hi. Welcome, Peter.
-Thank you, John.

-This is quite a place.
-Thank you.

That's quite a tree.

It is the oldest
olive tree here,

1,800 years old.

Wow! Still produces olives?

Very tasty ones,

but I have older things
to show you.

Can Orbitach started
the Uzbas Arboretum

in 1996,

to grow 1900 different
types of plants.

But as they tilled
these grounds,

they made
a surprising discovery.

One day, when we
were digging up here,

we found this, amphoras.

More than 2,000 years old.

-Still smelling of wine.
-Amazing.

The culture was lost,
but the proof was here.

So you knew they'd made wine.

Yes, yes, people were
making wine

for centuries here
in Anatolia.

Although the Egyptians
may first come to mind

when you think
of ancient viticulture,

archaeologists have found
evidence of wine production

dating back nearly
10,000 years,

at the site of the world's
first city in Anatolia.

So these ancient vessels,
with the scent of wine,

inspired John to take
a chance.

The terroir,
night and day differences.

Sea breezes, soil.

We knew we can do it again.

And you did.

In 2000, Can started
his first vineyard,

using historic varieties
of local grapes.

Today, the vines are thriving

and in need of constant
attention.

So, how many vines
are we talking about here?

170 acres.

That's a lot.

And those ladies out there,
what are they doing?

They are getting ready
for green harvesting.

And that's where you
work directly with the grapes?

With the grapes,
to have more concentration.

Although it may seem
counterintuitive,

during green harvest,

unripe grapes
are pruned from the vines.

This allows the remaining
grapes to thrive

and produce
a more concentrated wine.

Can wanted me
to give it a try,

but my experience
is drinking wine,

not making it.

So I just come right over here
to the bunches here?

-Mm-hmm.
-So, what, I cut this one?

-Peter, you decide.
-Okay, this is the one.

Yes, this is the right one.

-Okay, I just throw that out?
-Yeah.

And go on.

This one right here.
Okay. Right?

-Okay.
-Yes. This one.

-Right.
-Out it goes.

-Of course.
-How many vines are out here?

We're going
to be here for a while.

With ancient vineyards
that are older then Egypt's,

and Greek mythology
that didn't happen in Greece,

the Turkish Aegean
makes me reconsider

my entire understanding
of world history.

And just 60 miles
down the coast from Urla

is the ancient city of Ephesus,
where you'll find

one of the world's
best preserved Roman ruins.

Set on a strategic trade route,

Ephesus was once a cultural
and religious crossroads

and the most important
Greco-Roman city

in the eastern Mediterranean.

These days,
the ancient city is besieged

by nearly
a half million tourists

that pour off
cruise ships each summer

to see the ruins,

including the original version
of a pay toilet.

So if you gotta go...
every pun intended...

it's best to get there
on a day

when the cruise ships
aren't in port.

And if you want to skip
the crowds altogether,

you can head an hour
down the coast

to Lake Bafa
and the Buyuk Menderes,

also known
as the Meander River.

If the name sounds familiar,

it's because
the word "meander"

was inspired by the winding
course of this river.

Originating from springs
nearly 200 miles inland,

the Meander takes
a sinuous path to the coast,

depositing silt that
created fertile farmland

and filled an ancient bay.

Three thousand years ago,

the Aegean pushed almost
20 miles up this river valley,

but silt carried
by the Meander

slowly filled
the ancient bay,

leaving only
the isolated Lake Bafa.

This pocket of salty water

has managed to retain
all of its Aegean culture,

transporting you
to another world

far from the throngs
of tourists

and the pressures
of modern-day life.

Along its shores are thousands
of years of history.

From the ancient port city
of Herakleia,

to the prehistoric
Kerdemlik cave paintings,

as well as monasteries
and frescoes

created by the Byzantines.

If the shores are a monument
to the distant past,

out on the water
is a living present.

Fishermen
like Akin Karakaya

set out every day from
the nearby village of Sercin

in pursuit of
an unexpected delicacy.

We try to catch the eels.

-You've got traps all over here.
-All over here are traps, yeah.

To catch
these Lake Bafa eels,

Akin comes in the afternoon
to set the traps

and then returns in the early
morning to check them.

-Aha, you got some.
-Yep, yep.

Yeah, now we're going
to use the net.

There we are.

So, now into the basin.

Wow.

Okay. The next one.

You just
string them right along.

Akin has ten traps,

all connected underwater.

But not all of them catch.

Oh, this is empty.
They don't like this one.

-Okay.
-Maybe the other one.

But he doesn't get discouraged.

His family has been
in Sercin for 800 years,

surviving off the land
and the water.

You got anything in there?
Ah, we do.

-These are fresh-water eels?
-Fresh-water eels.

But they came
from salt water too.

Came from salt water.

-Great.
-There we go.

These eels
are somewhat unusual,

as they live in both
fresh and salt water

and they take
an astounding route

to get to Lake Bafa.

Hatched in the Sargasso Sea
in the west Atlantic,

they spend three years
crossing the ocean,

the Mediterranean
and the Aegean,

then swim up the Meander River

and into the lake.

-This is the last one.
-Last one.

Whoa!

Well, that's one big eel.

How old is that guy?

Maybe 15 years old.

Seriously, 15 years old?

Yeah.

I'd never seen
an eel that big,

so I wanted to try
and get a closer look.

Okay. Oops. Oh, my God.

You can't. Whoa!

Oh-oh-oh!

Almost.

That's why they say
"slippery as an eel."

Just for that, dinner.

Not a bad morning's work.

With the traps empty,
we head back to shore.

Sercin has less
than a thousand residents

and one restaurant.

But the chef was happy
to cook our fresh catch.

-He's taking the backbone.
-Uh-huh.

And then after, we're going
to put them to fire, grilling.

Pretty simple.

It's the easiest thing
in the world, cooking eels.

Some people think eels
are gross and slimy

and wouldn't even touch them,

while others think
they're a delicacy.

I'm going to try
the local variety

and decide for myself.

Here we are.

-Wow.
-Yep.

-Pre-oiled.
-Yep. Ready to go.

One-stop shopping.

The fish that comes
with its own oil.

Delicious?

While fresh eel

and the rugged remote
landscapes of Bafa

may not be for everyone,

60 miles south of Lake Bafa

is one of the most popular
destinations along the Aegean.

The port city of Bodrum.

Its two scenic bays
are separated

by the majestic Bodrum Castle,

which was erected
in the 1400s

by the crusading knights
of Saint John.

The castle was constructed
using stones and marble

from the ruins
of the ancient Carian city

of Halicarnassus,

which included
the tomb of Mausolus,

a massive mausoleum,

built around 350 B.C.,

that is considered
one of the seven wonders

of the ancient world.

But one of
the most interesting

ancient sites
on this peninsula

is far off the tourist track,

so you'll need the right gear
and the right guide

to get there.

-Hey, man.
-Good morning, Peter.

-How are ya?
-I'm great. How about you?

-Good. Let's do it.
-Why not? Let's go.

My guide is Deniz Kilic,

a former motocross
and enduro racer

who has traveled by motorcycle
all the way from Turkey

to the southern tip
of the African continent.

Today we're just climbing
a local mountain,

not crossing
an entire continent,

so Deniz has suggested
electric mountain bikes

for this trip.

We're heading up a route
called the Leleg Way,

named for
the aboriginal people

that inhabited this region

as early as
the 15th century B.C.

115 miles of trails

connect ancient Lelegian sites
across the peninsula,

and Deniz is taking me
to one of the lesser known

and best preserved spots
in the region.

So, this is it?

For the bikes.

It turns out we'll need
to do some hiking as well.

-How far to the top again?
-Just around the corner.

That's what you said
ten minutes ago.

But Deniz swears
it will be worth it.

Wow! That's a wow.

Yes. Here we are.

This is Gebe Kilise.

And that means?

This means
pregnant belly church.

Interesting name.

Yeah, but there is not
any connection with church.

This is grave, this is tombs.

Well, they picked
the right location.

Perfect location,
top of the hill.

-A tomb with a view.
-Yeah.

It's a real place for peace.

Archaeologists believe
this tomb was constructed

over 2,600 years ago,

but unlike the city
of Halicarnassus,

it has withstood
the test of time.

Mind your head.
You go first, please.

-Mind my step too.
-Yes, please.

Another wow.

This is a lot deeper
than I thought.

Outside, it's a huge dome
as you see.

Inside it's a beautiful pyramid.

Who knew?

So this has stood here
for 2,600 years

even with earthquakes.

But with little damage.

-Human damage.
-Yes.

Used to be one piece,
but it's huge damage.

-Thieves, burglars.
-Grave robbers were coming here.

That's right.
They were looking for treasures.

-Did they ever find them?
-I hope not.

Very little has been found
to reveal more

about the Lelegian people
and this tomb,

so for now it remains
a beautiful mystery.

I gotta say,
definitely worth the trip up.

Well, one more thing left.

What?

We need to go down.

Why are you laughing?

Down is easier than up,

as gravity works in my favor,

bringing me back
to the waters of the Aegean...

and the most popular mode
of transportation.

Boats.

Boats have long been part
of the Aegean culture

and so important
to the city's history

that the Bodrum Castle
is now home

to the Museum
of Underwater Archaeology,

which contains artifacts
and reconstructions

of ancient shipwrecks
dating back

to the 14th century B.C.

Historically, boats were even
used as currency here.

Around 500 B.C., the ancient
city of Halicarnassus

actually paid taxes to Egypt
with a trireme,

a large ancient warship
with three rows of oars.

But it wasn't until sponge
diving became prominent

in the 1800s that boats
were an integral part

of Bodrum's economy
and its culture.

After World War II,

sponge diving
and boat building

were at their peak
and boatyards were popping up

across the Bodrum peninsula

to meet the growing demand
of professional sponge divers.

But by the 1980s,
artificial sponge production

had eroded the demand
for natural sponges,

and the divers,
as well as the boatyards,

began to disappear.

Today in Bodrum, the boatyard
is often a backyard,

and a stroll
through the back streets

can reveal some impressive
home projects.

Hello! Anybody home?

-Hey, Mustafa, how are you?
-Hi there, welcome.

-Can I come onboard?
-Sure you can.

Okay.

Mustafa Ozkeskin
is the latest generation

of master boat builders
in Bodrum,

and he's currently working
on his 23rd boat.

All right, we're on.

It's a traditional
wood tirhandil,

which was the boat of choice
for sponge divers.

The name is thought to come
from the Greek word

for "three to one,"
which relates to the boat

being three times longer
than it's wide.

-Beautiful boat.
-Thank you.

-All wood.
-It's all wood, yeah.

What, mahogany?

Mahogany and teak.

But usually it's mahogany.

And how long will it
take you to finish this?

-It's about 10, 11 months.
-Almost a year.

-Yeah, nearly a year.
-And you designed it?

Sure, we design it,
but it's built by eye.

So, what, no blueprint?

-Nothing.
-No computer.

-Nothing, nothing, no, no.
-Amazing.

So, what are you
working on today?

-Come, I'll show you.
-All right.

Over the years, Mustafa
has developed an instinct

for how all the pieces
come together

to create one beautiful boat.

These are heavy.

Yeah, it's important
for the boat.

The heavier the wood,
the better the boat?

Yeah, it is very strong.
Not very, very heavy.

His best known boat
was named Hizir,

which has won
several prestigious awards

at the Bodrum Cup regattas.

But for Mustafa,

it's the tradition
of wooden boat building

that's far more important

than any prize or award.

-That's it?
-After about eight hours.

Took you eight hours
to do this?

-Yeah.
-Wow.

But the thing is I'm talking
about this boat,

the thing is, they are carrying
a very important cargo.

It's the heritage
of the Ottoman Empire.

So we have to spend time on it.

-And keep your tradition alive.
-Exactly.

But people don't make
wood boats that much anymore.

Because people love
easy things, easy to build.

But this, it's my biggest hobby.

-It's your love.
-It's my love, exactly.

Exactly.

This passion for building
traditional boats

has been passed down
for generations in Bodrum,

starting with the master
builders of the 1970s.

Ziya Guvendiren

and Nami Mehmet.

But few of the masters
still remain.

My master,
now he's about 76 years old.

And he learned it
from his master,

so it goes like that.

And who are you teaching?

Actually,
there's nobody with me

because it's a difficult
business, it's not easy.

-You have to live it.
-Yeah.

You have to spend
your time, your money.

You can't make big money
with this business.

So, what keeps you doing it?

Love. Love.

Here in Bodrum,

the best way to understand
the passion for wooden boats

is to take one
out on the water.

And people come from
all over Turkey and the world

to do just that.

When we come out here,

it's to get away
from the hustle and bustle.

It's to find yourself,

to find what's important to you.

Because when you're out here,
you're one with nature.

And you are exposed
to all the elements.

Sight, smell, sound, feeling.

And it's something
you cannot capture

when you're running around
doing your daily life.

And that's what brings us out.

For American ex-pat
Dina Street,

the pull of the Aegean
got her over 30 years ago,

when a major earthquake
shook up her life

back in California.

And after the earthquake,
I had the opportunity

to sort of reshift my life,
so to say.

So I bought a one-way ticket and
said, "Let's see what happens."

-Was it really a one-way ticket?
-It was a one-way ticket.

And most of my friends from
our university were shocked

that I was throwing away
my education,

I was throwing away my life

to come and live
in a fishing village.

Now, everyone's like,
"Dina, when can I visit?"

Bodrum was
a small fishing village

at the beginning
of the 20th century,

with less than
10,000 residents.

But with the rise
of the Turkish republic

and just a little tourism,

the city has grown
dramatically.

Well, since you
first came here,

Bodrum's gotten
a little crowded.

It has indeed.

We've jumped from
an official population

of about 20,000 people

to about one million

when all the Istanbul,
Izmir, and Ankara people

come down
to their summer villas.

So, how do you escape it?

You get on a boat
and you come out here

and you have
the whole sea to yourself.

And the real beauty
of a traditional tirhandil,

it's a sailboat.

Once you raise the sails...

and cut the engine...

you eliminate
all the background noise

of the modern world

and sail back into a time

when these boats
dominated the Aegean.

In the 21st century,

there's something special
about a wooden boat.

Absolutely. There's nothing
artificial about it.

You're one with the sea.

The sound of the water,
the sound of the wind.

And it's better

than any psychiatrist
could ever do for you.

Now you expect me
to go back to California?

Up to you.

I've got a boat for sale.

You may have a buyer.

I can make you a deal.

Now, that's American.

No, I take that back,
that's Turkish.

Exactly.

It's certainly tempting
to have a boat here,

as the coastline heading south
and east to the Mediterranean

is known as
the Turquoise Coast...

named for
its beautiful beaches

and stunning blue-green water.

The word "turquoise" comes

from the French word
for Turkish,

after the gemstone
of the same color

that was first brought
to Europe through Turkey.

From Bodrum,

the Aegean wraps around
the southwestern tip of Turkey,

connecting to the deeper
waters of the Mediterranean,

along the edge
of a small tectonic plate

bounded by the Greek islands
of Crete and Rhodes,

then intersecting
with the Turkish coastline

near the historic fishing
village of Dalyan.

Off the beaten path
of Turkish vacationers

and cruise ships

that can inundate
other coastal destinations,

Dalyan is a hidden gem.

The town sits on
the winding Dalyan River,

between the great expanse
of Lake Koycegiz

and the protected
sand beach of Iztuzu,

which is a preferred
nesting site

for loggerhead sea turtles.

Across the river,
3,000-year-old tombs,

carved into the cliffs,

tower over the ancient city
of Kaunos,

which was an important port

before silt from the river
filled up its bay.

The word "dalyan"
means fish weir,

which look like wooden fences

placed in the water
to catch fish.

The river has long been

the lifeblood
of this community

and boats remain the main mode
of transportation.

I take a boat to the beach.

I take a boat
to the market.

And this isn't me, this is,
like, the whole expat community.

About 40% of the population
in Dalyan are expats.

Leyla Ergil
is an American expat,

who came to Turkey
back in 2004

on a Fulbright scholarship
and never went back.

Today she's invited me
onboard a boat

owned by expats
and filled with expats,

that's heading
across the lake

on their weekly
grocery run.

We go to the Koycegiz market,

because that market
is spectacular.

And they let us off
for, like, two hours,

and we sort of
walk around the market

and do our shopping

and then some of us go swimming
in the lake, like me,

and then some go
and sit at the café,

and then the boat comes back,
picks us all up,

and then brings us back
to Dalyan.

So, let me see
if I get this straight.

It's boats to beaches,
to shopping, to eating.

-Yes.
-Not a bad lifestyle.

No, not at all.

This may sound like
a vacation,

but it's everyday life for
a digital nomad like Leyla,

who travels the country
researching

and writing stories

for the biggest
English-language newspaper

in Turkey.

You know, I'm nearing into,
like, my thousandth article

on Turkish culture, history,
expat endeavors,

or anything
that interests expats.

-You running out of ideas?
-Never, not in Turkey.

There's so much history and
so many different sites to see

that I'm always traveling,

but within an hour or two hours
driving distance maximum,

you can be at an ancient site,
a spectacular beach,

or a bustling city or boardroom.

Well, being on this beautiful
water on this beautiful boat

on this beautiful day,
I'm almost hesitant to ask,

but, is there a downside?

It's a whole different
mentality here.

Things do not go
according to time schedules

that westerners are used to,

so there is an adjustment curve
for English expats

who maybe want things
at a certain time.

So the motto for the Aegean is,
"It happens when it happens."

Exactly. Yeah.

-But in a good way.
-In a great way.

It's a real slower way of life,
especially in the villages

and towns I've lived in
in the Aegean.

For Leyla, it's clearly not
just the natural beauty

and dramatic history that
draws her to this region.

It's the people as well.

The Turks have very strong
values and they live by them.

They're very honorable,

and they like to share.

They're very generous.

They feel gratitude
for everything.

It's that personality and
this mentality of the Turks

that also just makes it
so special here.

-So, this is home?
-Yes. Definitely.

While the expats like
to head north

to the market in Koycegiz...

to the south,
beyond Radar Mountain,

there's
a little-known destination

that has just about
everything you need...

Oh, look what you got here.

Mountain goats.

There they go.

...in a much more
rustic setting.

But the rough roads
are worth the trip

as Kargicak Koyu
is a stunning hidden bay

that few travelers know about.

And if you can tear yourself
away from the beach

to head inland,

you'll be surprised to discover

rows of citrus trees
and vegetables

spreading back to the base
of the mountains.

It's a pretty big farm.

It's 30,000 square meters
in total.

And we have vegetable garden
as 2,000 square meters here.

-Wow.
-Right there, around this part.

Orcun Dundar
was living in Istanbul,

when he first discovered
Kargicak Bay in 2017

and in less than a year began
this seaside organic farm

that has become
a simple summer home

for the small team
that supports it.

Orcun is happy
to show off their crops

and take advantage
of a couple of extra hands.

We have some peppers ready here.

-Okay.
-We can grab some of them.

-Just pick them like this?
-Yeah, yeah, yeah.

I may have grown up
in New York City,

but I still know
my way around the garden.

-Oh, my God.
-Yeah.

And we have a different
type of pepper here.

You see?

Oh, yeah. These are hot?

-Maybe, let's see.
-Oh, maybe.

Yeah, hot.

They grow an amazing variety
of produce on this small farm,

which is prepared
with locally caught fish

to create seasonal dishes
for visitors

who are lucky enough to
make the journey to get here.

But I'm more at home on
the water than in the kitchen.

So while they prepare the food,
I head out with Mehmet,

Orcun's business partner,
to explore the sea.

If we continued east
into the Mediterranean,

we would discover
the ancient city of Patara,

from a historic republic that
inspired our own democracy,

as well as Gocek Harbor,

which is as impressive
as the massive yachts

that dock there.

For now, I'm more interested
in the hidden coves

and secret beaches
around Kargicak Bay.

And motoring across
these blue-green waters...

I'm reminded of the mix
of cultures I've experienced

along this coastline.

From the city of Troy,

where treasures of Greek
legends have been discovered

and lost,

to the Roman ruins of Ephesus,

so incredibly preserved,

and aboriginal monuments,

magnificent tombs
with a view,

to the hidden synagogues
of Izmir,

where an exiled
Spanish culture

is being reborn.

Beautiful. Beautiful.

Although things
that are uniquely Turkish

stand out in my memory.

From an ancient agora
that has evolved

into a giant outdoor bazaar,

a modern vineyard
grown on terraces,

from the earliest history
of wines.

The Meander River,
named for its bends.

And a local eggplant dish,
named for its scream.

Whoa!

Ultimately it was
the history of the sea

where I felt
the strongest connection,

from a master boat builder
continuing traditions

passed on for generations,

to the beautiful wooden boats

that have sailed these waters
for hundreds of years.

And then back
to Kargicak Bay,

where the warm waters of
the Aegean and Mediterranean

mix together,

uniting the past
and the present,

in a seascape
of inescapable beauty,

just a small moment in time

in the realm
of Turkey's hidden Aegean.