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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:00,827 --> 00:00:07,517 ♪♪ 2 00:00:07,517 --> 00:00:14,068 ♪♪ 3 00:00:14,068 --> 00:00:16,379 -This is the mighty Indus River, 4 00:00:16,379 --> 00:00:20,379 which gave its name to the whole Indian subcontinent. 5 00:00:20,379 --> 00:00:22,310 The Indus will take us back in time 6 00:00:22,310 --> 00:00:23,965 into Ancient India, 7 00:00:23,965 --> 00:00:26,206 5,000 years into the past, 8 00:00:26,206 --> 00:00:28,827 where we will find some of its hidden treasures. 9 00:00:28,827 --> 00:00:33,689 ♪♪ 10 00:00:33,689 --> 00:00:35,793 An ancient civilisation grew up here 11 00:00:35,793 --> 00:00:37,448 on the shore of the Indus. 12 00:00:37,448 --> 00:00:41,000 We will reveal the lost Buddhist culture 13 00:00:41,000 --> 00:00:44,137 of northern Pakistan... 14 00:00:44,137 --> 00:00:46,310 and luxuriate in the extraordinary 15 00:00:46,310 --> 00:00:49,379 architectural flowering of the Mughal Empire... 16 00:00:49,379 --> 00:00:52,000 and the exuberant temples of South India. 17 00:00:52,000 --> 00:00:55,655 All of which produced some extraordinary artworks. 18 00:00:57,000 --> 00:00:58,827 My name is Sona Datta, 19 00:00:58,827 --> 00:01:01,689 and as an art historian and museum curator, 20 00:01:01,689 --> 00:01:05,344 I've looked after treasures like these for most of my life. 21 00:01:05,344 --> 00:01:08,172 In this series, I'm exploring their stories 22 00:01:08,172 --> 00:01:09,931 and the people who created them. 23 00:01:09,931 --> 00:01:15,724 ♪♪ 24 00:01:15,724 --> 00:01:21,413 ♪♪ 25 00:01:21,413 --> 00:01:23,068 We start in Lahore, 26 00:01:23,068 --> 00:01:25,344 home to over 5 million people, 27 00:01:25,344 --> 00:01:28,896 and the vibrant, beating heart of modern Pakistan. 28 00:01:28,896 --> 00:01:31,482 [ Indistinct conversations ] 29 00:01:31,482 --> 00:01:35,000 Today we think of Pakistan as an Islamic country, 30 00:01:35,000 --> 00:01:37,275 and indeed it was religion that was the cause 31 00:01:37,275 --> 00:01:41,689 of its violent severance from Greater India in 1947. 32 00:01:41,689 --> 00:01:45,793 What was India's loss was the birth of a new nation -- 33 00:01:45,793 --> 00:01:48,482 the Islamic Republic of Pakistan. 34 00:01:48,482 --> 00:01:51,689 But this country's rich, complex, and diverse past 35 00:01:51,689 --> 00:01:54,379 is often forgotten. 36 00:01:54,379 --> 00:01:56,965 A time when women were celebrated, 37 00:01:56,965 --> 00:01:58,586 the Buddha was worshipped, 38 00:01:58,586 --> 00:02:02,827 and the Mughal Empire recreated paradise on Earth. 39 00:02:02,827 --> 00:02:08,068 ♪♪ 40 00:02:08,068 --> 00:02:11,379 ♪♪ 41 00:02:11,379 --> 00:02:15,103 This is Lahore, one of Pakistan's busiest cities. 42 00:02:15,103 --> 00:02:16,379 A couple of hours away, though, 43 00:02:16,379 --> 00:02:18,620 are the remains of a city so old 44 00:02:18,620 --> 00:02:22,000 it makes Lahore look as if it was built just yesterday. 45 00:02:23,689 --> 00:02:27,103 [ Speaks indistinctly ] 46 00:02:27,103 --> 00:02:29,655 A city that is not just one of the most ancient sites 47 00:02:29,655 --> 00:02:32,241 in Pakistan, but in the world. 48 00:02:32,241 --> 00:02:35,551 [ Train horn blows ] 49 00:02:35,551 --> 00:02:45,413 ♪♪ 50 00:02:45,413 --> 00:02:48,517 Pakistan was born less than 70 years ago. 51 00:02:48,517 --> 00:02:50,793 It's a much younger country than India, 52 00:02:50,793 --> 00:02:53,068 so it's perhaps ironic that it was the birthplace 53 00:02:53,068 --> 00:02:55,206 of a far older civilisation. 54 00:02:55,206 --> 00:02:57,724 It is the cradle of ancient India. 55 00:02:57,724 --> 00:03:05,517 ♪♪ 56 00:03:05,517 --> 00:03:13,172 ♪♪ 57 00:03:13,172 --> 00:03:15,137 This is Harappa. 58 00:03:15,137 --> 00:03:17,517 It was here, about 100 years ago, 59 00:03:17,517 --> 00:03:19,379 that, under the British, railway workers 60 00:03:19,379 --> 00:03:21,172 were creating a passageway 61 00:03:21,172 --> 00:03:22,620 to dig this railway 62 00:03:22,620 --> 00:03:24,620 and stumbled upon what appeared to be 63 00:03:24,620 --> 00:03:28,379 a very ancient mound of terracotta bricks. 64 00:03:29,620 --> 00:03:32,413 "How convenient," the workers must have thought, 65 00:03:32,413 --> 00:03:36,034 and just used the bricks to help make the railway embankment. 66 00:03:36,034 --> 00:03:38,655 But when archaeologists were eventually called in, 67 00:03:38,655 --> 00:03:43,034 they made one of the great discoveries of the 20th century. 68 00:03:43,034 --> 00:03:50,034 ♪♪ 69 00:03:50,034 --> 00:03:52,896 What they found defied belief. 70 00:03:52,896 --> 00:03:56,241 In this quiet and neglected corner of Pakistan, 71 00:03:56,241 --> 00:03:58,965 an enormous city -- stretching for miles -- 72 00:03:58,965 --> 00:04:02,172 began to emerge from beneath the dusty plains. 73 00:04:02,172 --> 00:04:08,206 ♪♪ 74 00:04:08,206 --> 00:04:11,172 It's thought the city of Harappa was large enough 75 00:04:11,172 --> 00:04:14,034 to house up to 80,000 people. 76 00:04:16,620 --> 00:04:22,172 This city was at the height of its success in 2,200 BC. 77 00:04:22,172 --> 00:04:26,827 It's not until the late 19th century, over 4,000 years later, 78 00:04:26,827 --> 00:04:28,068 that European cities 79 00:04:28,068 --> 00:04:30,965 reached anything like the scale and order. 80 00:04:30,965 --> 00:04:37,103 ♪♪ 81 00:04:37,103 --> 00:04:39,413 Even more extraordinary than its size 82 00:04:39,413 --> 00:04:42,620 was the realisation of quite how old it was. 83 00:04:42,620 --> 00:04:51,413 ♪♪ 84 00:04:51,413 --> 00:04:53,206 The story of Ancient India 85 00:04:53,206 --> 00:04:55,551 began here in the subcontinent, 86 00:04:55,551 --> 00:04:58,413 and this wasn't the story that had somehow been imported 87 00:04:58,413 --> 00:05:00,310 from Europe or the Middle East, 88 00:05:00,310 --> 00:05:02,586 as early archaeologists had imagined. 89 00:05:02,586 --> 00:05:05,724 This was a history that was India's own, 90 00:05:05,724 --> 00:05:09,793 a new beginning, if you like, for India's ancient past. 91 00:05:09,793 --> 00:05:11,172 ♪♪ 92 00:05:11,172 --> 00:05:12,758 What is striking about this place 93 00:05:12,758 --> 00:05:15,793 is how clearly this was laid out on a grid pattern 94 00:05:15,793 --> 00:05:17,482 like a modern city. 95 00:05:17,482 --> 00:05:20,482 These people really understood their right angles. 96 00:05:20,482 --> 00:05:23,896 Every structure here is built out of a rectangular, 97 00:05:23,896 --> 00:05:26,689 hand-made terracotta brick. 98 00:05:28,448 --> 00:05:31,310 But what is extraordinary is what isn't here. 99 00:05:31,310 --> 00:05:33,413 For a civilisation on this scale, 100 00:05:33,413 --> 00:05:35,172 contemporary with the pyramids, 101 00:05:35,172 --> 00:05:38,482 is that there isn't any grand monument to a single ruler, 102 00:05:38,482 --> 00:05:40,758 there isn't any celebration of a military might 103 00:05:40,758 --> 00:05:42,793 or a ruling theocracy. 104 00:05:42,793 --> 00:05:45,482 This was clearly, in a contemporary sense, 105 00:05:45,482 --> 00:05:48,310 a much more egalitarian society. 106 00:05:51,137 --> 00:05:56,275 ♪♪ 107 00:05:56,275 --> 00:05:59,586 And this is not the only city built by what came to be called 108 00:05:59,586 --> 00:06:01,931 the Indus Valley Civilisation, 109 00:06:01,931 --> 00:06:06,000 after the mighty river that threaded them together. 110 00:06:06,000 --> 00:06:09,793 Many others were later found, built to a similar template. 111 00:06:11,206 --> 00:06:13,448 And yet more remain to be excavated, 112 00:06:13,448 --> 00:06:17,517 still buried under mounds in the desert. 113 00:06:17,517 --> 00:06:21,517 This was an empire, albeit one without any rulers, 114 00:06:21,517 --> 00:06:25,586 and it's an empire that is still giving up its secrets. 115 00:06:25,586 --> 00:06:29,448 Gosh, so this was only excavated five or six days before? 116 00:06:29,448 --> 00:06:31,482 -Yeah. -Still fresh with the mud. 117 00:06:31,482 --> 00:06:32,655 -Yeah. 118 00:06:32,655 --> 00:06:35,241 -Many of these finds celebrate fertility 119 00:06:35,241 --> 00:06:37,724 and the female form, and similar artefacts 120 00:06:37,724 --> 00:06:40,551 are found all over the Indus Valley. 121 00:06:40,551 --> 00:06:42,896 These were people who liked their bling, 122 00:06:42,896 --> 00:06:44,965 and some of the jewellery found here reveals 123 00:06:44,965 --> 00:06:48,724 the use of sophisticated manufacturing techniques. 124 00:06:48,724 --> 00:06:50,655 So this delicate bead... 125 00:06:50,655 --> 00:06:52,793 This bead of carnelian was considered 126 00:06:52,793 --> 00:06:54,793 a highly precious stone, 127 00:06:54,793 --> 00:06:57,241 and the technology they had was remarkable, 128 00:06:57,241 --> 00:07:00,344 using diamonds to drill very uniform holes 129 00:07:00,344 --> 00:07:01,689 so they could string them together 130 00:07:01,689 --> 00:07:04,275 to produce elaborate necklaces. 131 00:07:09,689 --> 00:07:11,655 Unlike Pakistan today, 132 00:07:11,655 --> 00:07:13,655 this seems to have been a culture that valued, 133 00:07:13,655 --> 00:07:16,482 even worshipped, powerful women. 134 00:07:16,482 --> 00:07:20,241 And nowhere can this be seen better than in one tiny figure, 135 00:07:20,241 --> 00:07:23,310 a priceless treasure from the era known as The Dancing Girl, 136 00:07:23,310 --> 00:07:27,896 with the stance of an impudent teenager. 137 00:07:27,896 --> 00:07:31,000 Some have described this figure as the Mona Lisa 138 00:07:31,000 --> 00:07:34,310 of ancient Indian art. 139 00:07:34,310 --> 00:07:36,448 For a young woman at this very early date, 140 00:07:36,448 --> 00:07:39,103 she stands incredibly confidently with her hand 141 00:07:39,103 --> 00:07:43,965 on her hip, her head held high, decorated with bangles. 142 00:07:43,965 --> 00:07:46,724 There is a confidence and a poise about her, 143 00:07:46,724 --> 00:07:48,137 which is really surprising 144 00:07:48,137 --> 00:07:50,448 to some of our traditional conceptions 145 00:07:50,448 --> 00:07:52,931 and notions of women in South Asia. 146 00:07:52,931 --> 00:07:57,482 ♪♪ 147 00:07:57,482 --> 00:08:01,482 The Dancing Girlis unusual and almost unique. 148 00:08:01,482 --> 00:08:04,862 At Harappa, what has been found far more commonly 149 00:08:04,862 --> 00:08:08,172 are these mysterious seals carved in reverse, 150 00:08:08,172 --> 00:08:10,586 presumably so they could act as a stamp, 151 00:08:10,586 --> 00:08:15,379 leaving a clear image in wax, perhaps to seal a transaction. 152 00:08:17,827 --> 00:08:20,965 One of the most amazing features of these tiny seals 153 00:08:20,965 --> 00:08:22,586 that were found at Harappa 154 00:08:22,586 --> 00:08:26,379 was that nearly 50% of them represented the unicorn, 155 00:08:26,379 --> 00:08:27,793 the mythological animal 156 00:08:27,793 --> 00:08:30,827 that we usually associate with mediaeval Europe, 157 00:08:30,827 --> 00:08:32,965 but it first originated here 158 00:08:32,965 --> 00:08:36,655 and clearly had great spiritual significance for these people. 159 00:08:36,655 --> 00:08:39,206 It appears over and over again, 160 00:08:39,206 --> 00:08:41,758 but then completely disappeared from this region 161 00:08:41,758 --> 00:08:44,931 and travelled through Mesopotamia into Ancient Greece 162 00:08:44,931 --> 00:08:49,206 and into the legends of Europe that we've all grown up with. 163 00:08:49,206 --> 00:08:51,827 Craftsmanship and detail is astonishing. 164 00:08:51,827 --> 00:08:54,000 You can see all the individual hooves, 165 00:08:54,000 --> 00:08:56,068 even the hairs on the tail. 166 00:08:58,620 --> 00:09:06,068 ♪♪ 167 00:09:06,068 --> 00:09:13,413 ♪♪ 168 00:09:13,413 --> 00:09:16,827 So why did this remarkable civilisation disappear 169 00:09:16,827 --> 00:09:21,103 without trace for thousands of years? 170 00:09:21,103 --> 00:09:22,448 It's hard to believe 171 00:09:22,448 --> 00:09:25,137 in the heat and dust of the excavated city 172 00:09:25,137 --> 00:09:28,275 that a great tributary of the Indus once flowed here, 173 00:09:28,275 --> 00:09:31,862 which supplied the city with a wealth of water. 174 00:09:31,862 --> 00:09:35,482 There was in fact an indoor bathroom for almost every home, 175 00:09:35,482 --> 00:09:38,000 and a sophisticated drainage system. 176 00:09:39,724 --> 00:09:43,137 But over the millennia, the river changed course, 177 00:09:43,137 --> 00:09:47,413 leaving the city and its farmlands without water. 178 00:09:47,413 --> 00:09:48,827 It's no wonder then 179 00:09:48,827 --> 00:09:52,068 that this civilisation eventually collapsed. 180 00:09:55,724 --> 00:09:58,379 The great River Indus dominates the history 181 00:09:58,379 --> 00:10:00,482 of civilisation here. 182 00:10:00,482 --> 00:10:05,448 And as the river shifted course, whole cities came and went. 183 00:10:05,448 --> 00:10:12,448 ♪♪ 184 00:10:12,448 --> 00:10:15,310 It was here that the next great empire 185 00:10:15,310 --> 00:10:17,137 emerged in the Indus Valley, 186 00:10:17,137 --> 00:10:20,965 with consequences which would last for 1,000 years. 187 00:10:20,965 --> 00:10:26,137 ♪♪ 188 00:10:26,137 --> 00:10:29,034 This is the place, in 326 BC, 189 00:10:29,034 --> 00:10:32,068 where that Macedonian megalomaniac Alexander the Great 190 00:10:32,068 --> 00:10:35,793 crossed the river as he attempted to conquer India. 191 00:10:35,793 --> 00:10:39,344 He arrived with no language, no maps, 192 00:10:39,344 --> 00:10:41,482 and in fact, Alexander was so lost 193 00:10:41,482 --> 00:10:44,862 that he thought he had arrived at a distant source of the Nile, 194 00:10:44,862 --> 00:10:48,103 after having seen crocodiles in the Indus. 195 00:10:51,793 --> 00:10:55,413 He was simply driven by a testosterone-fuelled obsession 196 00:10:55,413 --> 00:10:58,482 to outdo the legendary Darius of Persia 197 00:10:58,482 --> 00:11:01,137 and find this fabled land to the East, 198 00:11:01,137 --> 00:11:03,793 which was known only by rumour. 199 00:11:03,793 --> 00:11:11,344 ♪♪ 200 00:11:11,344 --> 00:11:14,344 One of his historians, Arrian, wrote, 201 00:11:14,344 --> 00:11:16,896 "When Alexander arrived at the River Indus, 202 00:11:16,896 --> 00:11:19,620 he found gifts of silver, gold, and elephants 203 00:11:19,620 --> 00:11:21,827 from Taxilus the Indian. 204 00:11:21,827 --> 00:11:23,482 And that prince sent word 205 00:11:23,482 --> 00:11:25,655 he would surrender to him Taxila, 206 00:11:25,655 --> 00:11:29,137 the largest city near the River Indus." 207 00:11:29,137 --> 00:11:31,758 [ Horns honking ] 208 00:11:31,758 --> 00:11:37,551 ♪♪ 209 00:11:37,551 --> 00:11:43,241 ♪♪ 210 00:11:43,241 --> 00:11:45,965 This is the ancient city of Taxila, 211 00:11:45,965 --> 00:11:48,172 a thriving cosmopolitan centre, 212 00:11:48,172 --> 00:11:50,413 the Paris or Mumbai of its time, 213 00:11:50,413 --> 00:11:52,793 with a complete cacophony of languages, 214 00:11:52,793 --> 00:11:54,827 customs, and influences. 215 00:11:57,689 --> 00:12:00,965 Trusting no-one, Alexander marched into Taxila, 216 00:12:00,965 --> 00:12:04,206 ready for battle, but the governor welcomed him 217 00:12:04,206 --> 00:12:06,379 with a tribute of silver. 218 00:12:06,379 --> 00:12:08,137 Bribery will get you everywhere, 219 00:12:08,137 --> 00:12:12,931 and Alexander had made his first ally near the Indus. 220 00:12:12,931 --> 00:12:15,793 Everything the Greeks encountered was new, 221 00:12:15,793 --> 00:12:17,896 fresh, and exotic. 222 00:12:17,896 --> 00:12:19,275 The markets held spices 223 00:12:19,275 --> 00:12:22,413 and foodstuffs unrecognisable to them. 224 00:12:22,413 --> 00:12:23,965 And here, in this market, 225 00:12:23,965 --> 00:12:25,344 Alexander and his men 226 00:12:25,344 --> 00:12:27,241 came across the naked holy men, 227 00:12:27,241 --> 00:12:29,379 the Buddhist monks. 228 00:12:34,172 --> 00:12:36,517 ♪♪ 229 00:12:36,517 --> 00:12:38,620 Nearby, the Greeks and their new allies 230 00:12:38,620 --> 00:12:42,275 rebuilt the ancient city of Taxila. 231 00:12:42,275 --> 00:12:44,482 [ Speaks foreign language ] 232 00:12:44,482 --> 00:12:46,310 But this was to be like no other city 233 00:12:46,310 --> 00:12:48,655 that India had ever seen before. 234 00:12:48,655 --> 00:12:51,965 ♪♪ 235 00:12:51,965 --> 00:12:54,827 Today, that city is known as Sirkap. 236 00:12:58,310 --> 00:13:02,413 It's actually vast, spread over a really big area. 237 00:13:02,413 --> 00:13:05,413 There is a main boulevard, the high-street. 238 00:13:05,413 --> 00:13:07,172 There were shops and houses, 239 00:13:07,172 --> 00:13:08,827 and the city was planned very much 240 00:13:08,827 --> 00:13:11,034 like a Hellenistic city would have been. 241 00:13:11,034 --> 00:13:13,551 Many of the walls are still standing, 242 00:13:13,551 --> 00:13:17,448 and the whole place is neatly ordered. 243 00:13:17,448 --> 00:13:20,655 And this was a really thriving metropolis. 244 00:13:20,655 --> 00:13:23,931 There were Zoroastrians, Buddhists, Jains, Hindus. 245 00:13:23,931 --> 00:13:27,344 It was a real mix, a buzzing place. 246 00:13:27,344 --> 00:13:30,000 Alexander's arrival here was just the start 247 00:13:30,000 --> 00:13:33,344 of a long relationship between India and Greek culture, 248 00:13:33,344 --> 00:13:35,896 which went on for several hundred years. 249 00:13:35,896 --> 00:13:39,655 ♪♪ 250 00:13:39,655 --> 00:13:42,103 And one result of that Greek invasion 251 00:13:42,103 --> 00:13:45,413 was the effect it had on the local religion of Buddhism, 252 00:13:45,413 --> 00:13:49,448 which now changed dramatically in its art and architecture. 253 00:13:49,448 --> 00:13:54,241 ♪♪ 254 00:13:54,241 --> 00:13:56,275 This is a really complete example 255 00:13:56,275 --> 00:13:58,241 of an early Buddhist temple, 256 00:13:58,241 --> 00:14:01,034 which has all the hallmarks of Greek influence. 257 00:14:01,034 --> 00:14:03,137 You've got the stupa in the middle, 258 00:14:03,137 --> 00:14:05,448 the steps leading up to it. 259 00:14:05,448 --> 00:14:09,551 This motif here actually shows a double-headed eagle. 260 00:14:09,551 --> 00:14:11,448 And you can see these beautifully carved 261 00:14:11,448 --> 00:14:14,551 acanthus leaves at the top of each of these pilasters. 262 00:14:14,551 --> 00:14:17,655 You can see all around in the detail, the fusion 263 00:14:17,655 --> 00:14:19,931 of Hellenistic influence with the traditional, 264 00:14:19,931 --> 00:14:22,413 local religion of Buddhism. 265 00:14:22,413 --> 00:14:26,275 ♪♪ 266 00:14:26,275 --> 00:14:27,793 When the Greeks arrived, 267 00:14:27,793 --> 00:14:30,482 Buddhism had already been established for some centuries 268 00:14:30,482 --> 00:14:35,655 since the death of the Buddha himself in around 480 BC. 269 00:14:35,655 --> 00:14:38,551 But their arrival had a fundamental impact 270 00:14:38,551 --> 00:14:41,379 on the way the Buddha was now portrayed. 271 00:14:43,482 --> 00:14:45,241 Although we're used to seeing the Buddha 272 00:14:45,241 --> 00:14:47,551 represented in human form, 273 00:14:47,551 --> 00:14:50,310 in the very earliest manifestations, 274 00:14:50,310 --> 00:14:53,655 he was actually represented by his absence. 275 00:14:53,655 --> 00:14:55,827 He was represented in symbolic form, 276 00:14:55,827 --> 00:14:58,655 like this magnificent footprint 277 00:14:58,655 --> 00:15:01,310 decorated with symbols of Buddhism, 278 00:15:01,310 --> 00:15:05,379 which celebrated aspects of the Buddha's life, 279 00:15:05,379 --> 00:15:08,310 rather than showing him in human form. 280 00:15:08,310 --> 00:15:11,310 And then something really interesting and dramatic 281 00:15:11,310 --> 00:15:14,241 starts to happen in this region 282 00:15:14,241 --> 00:15:16,793 after the invasion of Alexander the Great, 283 00:15:16,793 --> 00:15:21,896 and that is the representation of the Buddha as a real, 284 00:15:21,896 --> 00:15:24,482 living person in human form. 285 00:15:26,896 --> 00:15:30,896 It's hard to exaggerate how important a moment this was 286 00:15:30,896 --> 00:15:33,310 in the history of Buddhism. 287 00:15:33,310 --> 00:15:36,689 For the first time, the Buddha was given features. 288 00:15:36,689 --> 00:15:38,793 He had died too long before for anyone 289 00:15:38,793 --> 00:15:41,310 to remember what he really looked like, 290 00:15:41,310 --> 00:15:44,827 so the features he was given were idealised ones, 291 00:15:44,827 --> 00:15:49,379 and the new ideal came from this innovative Indo-Greek culture 292 00:15:49,379 --> 00:15:52,724 that took Buddhism from its home on the North Indian plain 293 00:15:52,724 --> 00:15:55,862 and embedded it onto a completely new form, 294 00:15:55,862 --> 00:16:00,103 one that we might find more recognisable today. 295 00:16:00,103 --> 00:16:04,137 Here are youthful Buddhas with hair arranged in wavy curls 296 00:16:04,137 --> 00:16:06,689 that resemble Greek sculptures of Apollo. 297 00:16:06,689 --> 00:16:09,965 The monastic robe covering both shoulders is arranged 298 00:16:09,965 --> 00:16:14,655 in heavy, naturalistic folds, reminiscent of a classical toga, 299 00:16:14,655 --> 00:16:17,517 and compared to other more rotund Buddhas, 300 00:16:17,517 --> 00:16:21,620 he has the toned body of a Greek athlete. 301 00:16:21,620 --> 00:16:23,482 [ Horn honks ] 302 00:16:23,482 --> 00:16:32,241 ♪♪ 303 00:16:32,241 --> 00:16:35,482 This was not a one-way exchange in Gandhara. 304 00:16:35,482 --> 00:16:37,379 The Greeks themselves took gold, 305 00:16:37,379 --> 00:16:40,310 silver, and Sindh cotton back to Europe, 306 00:16:40,310 --> 00:16:44,586 along what started to become a thriving trade route. 307 00:16:44,586 --> 00:16:47,137 But more importantly, they also took with them 308 00:16:47,137 --> 00:16:49,517 a myth and a name. 309 00:16:49,517 --> 00:16:51,827 The River Indus was the whole subcontinent 310 00:16:51,827 --> 00:16:54,931 for the European imagination, as India. 311 00:16:54,931 --> 00:16:58,172 And the stories that went back with Alexander and his men 312 00:16:58,172 --> 00:17:01,137 of a wild, fabulous place filled with mystics, 313 00:17:01,137 --> 00:17:03,724 seers, and gold were to influence 314 00:17:03,724 --> 00:17:07,310 the European view of India for thousands of years. 315 00:17:09,379 --> 00:17:10,862 In some ways, you could say 316 00:17:10,862 --> 00:17:14,827 we are still unpicking the reality from that myth. 317 00:17:14,827 --> 00:17:17,241 For it was after the arrival of Alexander 318 00:17:17,241 --> 00:17:20,103 and the long Indo-Greek culture that followed 319 00:17:20,103 --> 00:17:23,068 that the idea of India was born. 320 00:17:23,068 --> 00:17:26,551 ♪♪ 321 00:17:26,551 --> 00:17:30,172 Alexander left behind him an Indo-Greek culture 322 00:17:30,172 --> 00:17:32,551 which took on a life of its own. 323 00:17:32,551 --> 00:17:35,620 It was a golden age for the growth of Buddhism. 324 00:17:37,620 --> 00:17:41,448 A great Buddhist monastery was built here in Taxila, 325 00:17:41,448 --> 00:17:43,517 at the crossroads of Asia. 326 00:17:43,517 --> 00:17:48,137 ♪♪ 327 00:17:48,137 --> 00:17:50,896 Students came here from Persia in the west, 328 00:17:50,896 --> 00:17:52,206 India to the south, 329 00:17:52,206 --> 00:17:54,172 and from the north along the silk route. 330 00:17:54,172 --> 00:17:56,068 Perhaps most important of all 331 00:17:56,068 --> 00:17:58,448 came inquisitive Chinese pilgrims, 332 00:17:58,448 --> 00:18:00,724 many of whom took Buddhist scriptures 333 00:18:00,724 --> 00:18:02,655 back with them to China. 334 00:18:02,655 --> 00:18:11,068 ♪♪ 335 00:18:11,068 --> 00:18:14,275 Representation of the Buddha continued to develop, 336 00:18:14,275 --> 00:18:16,172 and here in the museum in Lahore 337 00:18:16,172 --> 00:18:18,137 is one of the most significant -- 338 00:18:18,137 --> 00:18:20,034 the Fasting Buddha. 339 00:18:20,034 --> 00:18:24,931 This really dramatic representation of the Buddha 340 00:18:24,931 --> 00:18:29,517 shows him during the six years he undertook fasting 341 00:18:29,517 --> 00:18:32,344 as part of his journey to reach nirvana. 342 00:18:32,344 --> 00:18:33,724 And you can see it's actually 343 00:18:33,724 --> 00:18:36,931 a complete masterpiece of Buddhist sculpture. 344 00:18:36,931 --> 00:18:39,241 It's made out of single piece of schist, 345 00:18:39,241 --> 00:18:43,310 and you can see how the full-bodied form 346 00:18:43,310 --> 00:18:45,862 has completely withered away, 347 00:18:45,862 --> 00:18:48,068 and he's shown with his ribs protruding, 348 00:18:48,068 --> 00:18:52,689 his arteries, his veins, the robes are slipping off him. 349 00:18:52,689 --> 00:18:54,931 And in particular, if you look at his face, 350 00:18:54,931 --> 00:18:57,034 the eyes are completely sunken. 351 00:18:57,034 --> 00:18:58,517 The cheeks are sallow, 352 00:18:58,517 --> 00:19:02,068 but there is a certain serenity to his expression. 353 00:19:02,068 --> 00:19:04,517 You know, this is not the expression of a dying man, 354 00:19:04,517 --> 00:19:08,172 this is the expression of a man who's on a path, 355 00:19:08,172 --> 00:19:09,896 looking for something. 356 00:19:09,896 --> 00:19:12,000 And if you look very carefully into his eyes, 357 00:19:12,000 --> 00:19:13,655 they're actually open, 358 00:19:13,655 --> 00:19:18,379 they're actually looking at you as you stand before him. 359 00:19:18,379 --> 00:19:21,655 And beneath, you can see the narrative sequence, 360 00:19:21,655 --> 00:19:25,172 the story that tells that actually he realised 361 00:19:25,172 --> 00:19:27,517 this wasn't the way to enlightenment, 362 00:19:27,517 --> 00:19:31,482 and that he ended up begging for food to feed himself, 363 00:19:31,482 --> 00:19:34,620 and continued on his journey to nirvana. 364 00:19:34,620 --> 00:19:44,379 ♪♪ 365 00:19:44,379 --> 00:19:46,517 In other regions of South Asia, 366 00:19:46,517 --> 00:19:49,896 Buddhism ultimately survived only in small pockets, 367 00:19:49,896 --> 00:19:52,655 whereas this area surrounding the high Indus 368 00:19:52,655 --> 00:19:56,344 had a different kind of sacred landscape altogether. 369 00:19:56,344 --> 00:19:59,379 Here, more than 3,000 Buddhist institutions 370 00:19:59,379 --> 00:20:01,793 flourished across Gandhara. 371 00:20:04,206 --> 00:20:06,620 And the world has not only forgotten, 372 00:20:06,620 --> 00:20:09,448 but I suspect it doesn't really know that Buddhism, 373 00:20:09,448 --> 00:20:11,655 as we know it today, actually emanated 374 00:20:11,655 --> 00:20:15,827 from this part of the world, right here in Pakistan. 375 00:20:19,827 --> 00:20:22,965 So why was it that Buddhism spread from here 376 00:20:22,965 --> 00:20:25,172 to the four corners of Asia? 377 00:20:26,827 --> 00:20:28,931 Because this area of Pakistan was at the heart 378 00:20:28,931 --> 00:20:31,655 of one of the busiest trade routes in Asia, 379 00:20:31,655 --> 00:20:34,310 market towns like these exchanged art, 380 00:20:34,310 --> 00:20:36,448 ideas, and cultural influence 381 00:20:36,448 --> 00:20:41,344 just as easily as they did textiles, ivory, and spices. 382 00:20:41,344 --> 00:20:43,965 And as the merchant class grew more prosperous, 383 00:20:43,965 --> 00:20:47,586 they could afford to turn their attention to manufacturing. 384 00:20:47,586 --> 00:20:52,310 ♪♪ 385 00:20:52,310 --> 00:20:54,862 These images of the Buddha were being mass-produced 386 00:20:54,862 --> 00:20:58,793 to cater for expanding markets in the Far East. 387 00:20:58,793 --> 00:21:00,586 The irony is, of course, 388 00:21:00,586 --> 00:21:03,344 that a religion based on principles of austerity 389 00:21:03,344 --> 00:21:07,862 and rejection of the self, its ego, and material wealth 390 00:21:07,862 --> 00:21:09,655 now found itself enveloped 391 00:21:09,655 --> 00:21:12,517 in decidedly commercial concerns. 392 00:21:12,517 --> 00:21:17,793 ♪♪ 393 00:21:17,793 --> 00:21:22,965 ♪♪ 394 00:21:22,965 --> 00:21:24,586 [ Horn honks ] 395 00:21:24,586 --> 00:21:26,931 So one of the things you see when you're travelling 396 00:21:26,931 --> 00:21:31,310 around Pakistan are these incredible bursts of colour, 397 00:21:31,310 --> 00:21:33,517 which are these painted trucks. 398 00:21:33,517 --> 00:21:35,448 And I'm here at the moment in a yard 399 00:21:35,448 --> 00:21:39,000 where they not only make the trucks and repair them, 400 00:21:39,000 --> 00:21:43,103 but also take great care to decorate them. 401 00:21:43,103 --> 00:21:46,000 This is one of my absolute favourites. 402 00:21:46,000 --> 00:21:49,034 It's got all the scale of an American juggernaut, 403 00:21:49,034 --> 00:21:50,448 but look at the difference. 404 00:21:50,448 --> 00:21:55,206 Every inch of this vehicle has been decorated, 405 00:21:55,206 --> 00:21:57,379 painted, made colourful. 406 00:21:57,379 --> 00:21:59,379 It's glittering in the sunlight. 407 00:21:59,379 --> 00:22:01,896 Here, in the centre, you've got Father of the Nation, 408 00:22:01,896 --> 00:22:06,620 Muhammad Ali Jinnah, flanked by the Pakistani flag. 409 00:22:06,620 --> 00:22:11,620 And everywhere there is colour, symbols of fish, 410 00:22:11,620 --> 00:22:14,448 which they particularly like here 411 00:22:14,448 --> 00:22:17,275 because it gives them lots of opportunity 412 00:22:17,275 --> 00:22:21,827 to provide texture and colour and pattern. 413 00:22:21,827 --> 00:22:26,827 You don't see a lot of colour in what people wear. 414 00:22:26,827 --> 00:22:29,000 The men are dressed in quite earthy colours, 415 00:22:29,000 --> 00:22:30,827 and the woman may be brightly dressed, 416 00:22:30,827 --> 00:22:34,620 but many of them are covered in the veil, 417 00:22:34,620 --> 00:22:37,862 and then you see this incredible burst of colour 418 00:22:37,862 --> 00:22:40,758 along the road for everyone to enjoy. 419 00:22:40,758 --> 00:22:42,965 There's a lot of detail on the outside. 420 00:22:42,965 --> 00:22:45,137 There's these wonderful tassels. 421 00:22:45,137 --> 00:22:47,586 And then when you look on the inside, 422 00:22:47,586 --> 00:22:52,517 an absolute driver's boudoir. 423 00:22:52,517 --> 00:22:55,758 I wanted to have a look in one of the actual workshops, 424 00:22:55,758 --> 00:22:59,379 where a lot of the crafting of these designs 425 00:22:59,379 --> 00:23:01,137 actually takes place. 426 00:23:01,137 --> 00:23:09,275 ♪♪ 427 00:23:09,275 --> 00:23:10,793 I like to think that these skills 428 00:23:10,793 --> 00:23:14,827 are an echo of the Taxila craftsman of old. 429 00:23:14,827 --> 00:23:18,275 Their fine work with gold, silver, and precious stones 430 00:23:18,275 --> 00:23:20,931 helped build ancient trade routes here, 431 00:23:20,931 --> 00:23:22,689 and thus the spread of Buddhism. 432 00:23:22,689 --> 00:23:28,724 ♪♪ 433 00:23:28,724 --> 00:23:31,482 Yet however successful abroad, by the eighth century, 434 00:23:31,482 --> 00:23:35,448 Buddhism had all but disappeared in Pakistan itself. 435 00:23:35,448 --> 00:23:37,965 So why is there virtually no trace of it 436 00:23:37,965 --> 00:23:41,241 in the country that was for so long its home? 437 00:23:44,034 --> 00:23:47,793 It's not in Pakistan but in China and the Far East 438 00:23:47,793 --> 00:23:51,275 that Gandharan civilisation made its greatest impact, 439 00:23:51,275 --> 00:23:54,310 and its influence can still be felt today. 440 00:23:57,517 --> 00:24:00,620 Through the early Chinese pilgrims that came here, 441 00:24:00,620 --> 00:24:04,137 Buddhism established a firm foothold in Imperial China, 442 00:24:04,137 --> 00:24:06,068 which served as the base for the Buddhism 443 00:24:06,068 --> 00:24:09,344 which spread to the whole of the Far East. 444 00:24:09,344 --> 00:24:12,137 Centuries later, Chinese monks returned 445 00:24:12,137 --> 00:24:14,413 to see the source of their Buddhism. 446 00:24:14,413 --> 00:24:20,310 ♪♪ 447 00:24:20,310 --> 00:24:22,793 Buddhism in northwest India was being eclipsed 448 00:24:22,793 --> 00:24:25,758 by more intruders from Central Asia. 449 00:24:25,758 --> 00:24:28,517 A series of invaders, like the White Huns, 450 00:24:28,517 --> 00:24:30,689 entered the region, and eventually, 451 00:24:30,689 --> 00:24:34,793 the grand city of Taxila was brought to its knees. 452 00:24:34,793 --> 00:24:40,034 ♪♪ 453 00:24:40,034 --> 00:24:41,413 In the seventh century, 454 00:24:41,413 --> 00:24:45,000 when the Chinese pilgrim Xuanzang came to Taxila 455 00:24:45,000 --> 00:24:46,379 to find the source of the Buddhism 456 00:24:46,379 --> 00:24:48,448 that had transformed China, 457 00:24:48,448 --> 00:24:51,724 it lay desolate and in a state of half ruin, 458 00:24:51,724 --> 00:24:54,689 a mere shadow of its former glory. 459 00:24:54,689 --> 00:25:00,000 ♪♪ 460 00:25:00,000 --> 00:25:03,413 He described the monasteries as "filled with shrubs 461 00:25:03,413 --> 00:25:07,965 and solitary to the last degree, wasted and desolate," 462 00:25:07,965 --> 00:25:10,137 and the monks as "indolent 463 00:25:10,137 --> 00:25:14,103 and given to indulgence and debauchery." 464 00:25:14,103 --> 00:25:15,379 And in some ways, one could say 465 00:25:15,379 --> 00:25:17,758 that the old tolerance of Taxila, 466 00:25:17,758 --> 00:25:21,241 the cosmopolitan university open to all faiths, 467 00:25:21,241 --> 00:25:23,551 also now lies in ruins. 468 00:25:23,551 --> 00:25:29,965 ♪♪ 469 00:25:29,965 --> 00:25:33,000 It now feels barren, laid waste. 470 00:25:33,000 --> 00:25:36,241 It feels like a great civilisation has gone. 471 00:25:36,241 --> 00:25:44,482 ♪♪ 472 00:25:44,482 --> 00:25:52,482 ♪♪ 473 00:25:52,482 --> 00:25:55,620 The invaders who destroyed the old Buddhist cultures 474 00:25:55,620 --> 00:25:58,965 were followed out of the Afghan mountains centuries later 475 00:25:58,965 --> 00:26:01,137 by more horsemen from the north, 476 00:26:01,137 --> 00:26:03,103 who brought with them a new religion. 477 00:26:03,103 --> 00:26:06,689 ♪♪ 478 00:26:06,689 --> 00:26:07,655 Islam. 479 00:26:07,655 --> 00:26:12,724 ♪♪ 480 00:26:12,724 --> 00:26:15,862 And to explore the Muslim legacy they left behind, 481 00:26:15,862 --> 00:26:18,310 we've come back to the city they founded, 482 00:26:18,310 --> 00:26:23,413 the cultural centre of modern Pakistan -- Lahore. 483 00:26:23,413 --> 00:26:27,172 [ Islam call to prayer ] 484 00:26:36,137 --> 00:26:41,931 ♪♪ 485 00:26:41,931 --> 00:26:44,655 -[ Singing in native language ] 486 00:26:44,655 --> 00:26:47,965 ♪♪ 487 00:26:47,965 --> 00:26:52,172 -Around 1,000 AD, the Muslim sultan Mahmud of Ghazni 488 00:26:52,172 --> 00:26:54,689 gained control of the Indus Valley, 489 00:26:54,689 --> 00:26:59,137 and Lahore rose up as a great city under his rule. 490 00:26:59,137 --> 00:27:01,689 Scholars and poets gathered from as far away 491 00:27:01,689 --> 00:27:03,689 as Iraq and Samarkand 492 00:27:03,689 --> 00:27:07,896 and made Lahore a city of music and the arts. 493 00:27:07,896 --> 00:27:10,206 -[ Singing in native language ] 494 00:27:10,206 --> 00:27:12,275 -Today, Ali Sethi typifies 495 00:27:12,275 --> 00:27:14,758 a younger group of Pakistani artists 496 00:27:14,758 --> 00:27:17,931 who are rediscovering how much their country's past 497 00:27:17,931 --> 00:27:20,310 still has to say to them. 498 00:27:20,310 --> 00:27:21,793 Is there something about the fact 499 00:27:21,793 --> 00:27:23,379 that it's a song of suffering 500 00:27:23,379 --> 00:27:25,827 that draws people do it? -Yeah, absolutely. 501 00:27:25,827 --> 00:27:28,551 Every person that I've ever heard singing it, 502 00:27:28,551 --> 00:27:30,379 like, sublimates or channels 503 00:27:30,379 --> 00:27:33,827 whatever it is they're feeling, whatever pain or angst 504 00:27:33,827 --> 00:27:38,482 or, like, you know, achy emotion they're feeling, into this song. 505 00:27:38,482 --> 00:27:42,448 And I've heard, you know, traditional musicians, 506 00:27:42,448 --> 00:27:43,827 people you would call minstrels, 507 00:27:43,827 --> 00:27:46,551 singing it with tattered clothes 508 00:27:46,551 --> 00:27:48,827 at shrines, you know, in deserts, 509 00:27:48,827 --> 00:27:51,965 and I've heard kids in jeans and t-shirts, 510 00:27:51,965 --> 00:27:53,655 with joints in their hands, 511 00:27:53,655 --> 00:27:58,172 singing this, you know, with great feeling and fervour, 512 00:27:58,172 --> 00:28:00,620 and taking great ownership of it, you know? 513 00:28:00,620 --> 00:28:04,551 And that seems to me to be a great miracle of life here, 514 00:28:04,551 --> 00:28:08,655 is that despite so much... 515 00:28:08,655 --> 00:28:12,862 truncation and so much revisionism, you know, 516 00:28:12,862 --> 00:28:18,482 and so much loss of what ought to have been memorialised, 517 00:28:18,482 --> 00:28:20,586 there is still this... -Persistence. 518 00:28:20,586 --> 00:28:24,000 -...persistence. This really amazing persistence 519 00:28:24,000 --> 00:28:25,931 of things that are ancient 520 00:28:25,931 --> 00:28:30,620 and that are very strong and that continue to live in us, 521 00:28:30,620 --> 00:28:34,448 and that we continue to sort of pour into newer forms, 522 00:28:34,448 --> 00:28:37,758 ever newer forms and styles and situations, 523 00:28:37,758 --> 00:28:40,551 and yet we're not conscious of those things. 524 00:28:40,551 --> 00:28:46,206 Politically, we are very young, and culturally we're very old. 525 00:28:46,206 --> 00:28:48,620 So what does that make us? 526 00:28:48,620 --> 00:28:49,586 -Interesting. 527 00:28:49,586 --> 00:28:52,172 It makes Pakistan very interesting. 528 00:28:52,172 --> 00:28:54,000 -I agree, I agree. 529 00:28:54,000 --> 00:28:57,103 -[ Singing in native language ] 530 00:28:57,103 --> 00:29:00,724 ♪♪ 531 00:29:00,724 --> 00:29:05,206 -To see how Islam has lasted for 1,000 years in Lahore, 532 00:29:05,206 --> 00:29:08,034 we've come to this ancient shrine. 533 00:29:08,034 --> 00:29:09,655 Even though Taliban suicide bombers 534 00:29:09,655 --> 00:29:12,724 killed 42 worshipers here in 2010, 535 00:29:12,724 --> 00:29:15,379 the congregation still comes to praise Islam 536 00:29:15,379 --> 00:29:17,241 in verse and song. 537 00:29:21,344 --> 00:29:25,000 -You know, spiritual music is very powerful, 538 00:29:25,000 --> 00:29:30,413 and I think all the people who go to shrines, 539 00:29:30,413 --> 00:29:32,344 they lose... -Themselves. 540 00:29:32,344 --> 00:29:33,655 -They lose themselves. 541 00:29:33,655 --> 00:29:36,517 It's like going into another space and... 542 00:29:36,517 --> 00:29:38,482 -It's like a trance. -It's a trance, 543 00:29:38,482 --> 00:29:40,482 it's the trance music. 544 00:29:40,482 --> 00:29:45,482 I've seen 500 people going into a trance for hours. 545 00:29:45,482 --> 00:29:53,172 ♪♪ 546 00:29:53,172 --> 00:29:55,689 -You get caught up in the energy of it as well. 547 00:29:55,689 --> 00:29:57,103 There's a momentum. 548 00:29:57,103 --> 00:29:58,551 -You get caught up in the energy, 549 00:29:58,551 --> 00:30:02,655 and the best thing is that they do it not alone. 550 00:30:02,655 --> 00:30:08,000 They're doing it with friends, and hundreds of them doing it. 551 00:30:08,000 --> 00:30:11,482 And it's like headbanging or something 552 00:30:11,482 --> 00:30:13,620 that you do at a rock concert. 553 00:30:13,620 --> 00:30:15,034 -Yeah, yeah, yeah. 554 00:30:15,034 --> 00:30:21,034 ♪♪ 555 00:30:22,724 --> 00:30:30,413 ♪♪ 556 00:30:30,413 --> 00:30:32,965 By the 10th century, Lahore was being described 557 00:30:32,965 --> 00:30:35,137 as a place with impressive palaces, 558 00:30:35,137 --> 00:30:38,206 large markets, and huge orchards. 559 00:30:40,586 --> 00:30:44,620 500 years later, this thriving cultural hub of a city 560 00:30:44,620 --> 00:30:46,344 became a natural choice for a capital 561 00:30:46,344 --> 00:30:52,103 for the greatest of Muslim connoisseurs -- the Mughals. 562 00:30:52,103 --> 00:30:54,620 For this is where Islam from Persia 563 00:30:54,620 --> 00:30:56,482 met the land beyond the Indus 564 00:30:56,482 --> 00:31:00,379 to recreate a paradise on earth. 565 00:31:01,655 --> 00:31:05,000 Lahore is often described as the city of gardens, 566 00:31:05,000 --> 00:31:07,758 of gardens watered by the Indus. 567 00:31:09,655 --> 00:31:13,172 The city reached the peak of its glory during the Mughal rule. 568 00:31:13,172 --> 00:31:17,000 Not only did they build lavish monuments and splendid gardens, 569 00:31:17,000 --> 00:31:19,965 they bestowed upon Lahore customs and traditions 570 00:31:19,965 --> 00:31:22,034 that have echoed down the ages. 571 00:31:22,034 --> 00:31:27,551 ♪♪ 572 00:31:27,551 --> 00:31:29,931 And it's Islam which is often credited 573 00:31:29,931 --> 00:31:33,482 with introducing a new concept to Pakistan -- 574 00:31:33,482 --> 00:31:35,448 the concept of purdah. 575 00:31:35,448 --> 00:31:42,172 ♪♪ 576 00:31:42,172 --> 00:31:45,655 Purdah or purd-ah was originally a Persian word 577 00:31:45,655 --> 00:31:48,000 that came to India with the Mughals, 578 00:31:48,000 --> 00:31:50,137 and means veil or curtain, 579 00:31:50,137 --> 00:31:54,034 and was a way for a wife to show complete loyalty to her husband. 580 00:31:54,034 --> 00:31:58,034 Eventually it was also taken up by high-class Hindu women 581 00:31:58,034 --> 00:32:00,586 as a form of protection. 582 00:32:00,586 --> 00:32:02,310 Previously in the subcontinent, 583 00:32:02,310 --> 00:32:05,103 all women were uncovered from the waist up, 584 00:32:05,103 --> 00:32:08,965 as we've seen previously in the Dancing Girl of Mohenjo-daro. 585 00:32:08,965 --> 00:32:12,068 And here we have these wonderful architectural metaphors 586 00:32:12,068 --> 00:32:14,965 for the veil in these jali screens, 587 00:32:14,965 --> 00:32:16,379 which would have been a way 588 00:32:16,379 --> 00:32:18,689 to separate the women from the world outside, 589 00:32:18,689 --> 00:32:23,137 but also for them to create their own world within. 590 00:32:23,137 --> 00:32:24,551 So what lay behind the harem 591 00:32:24,551 --> 00:32:27,275 was often of great intrigue to the commoner. 592 00:32:27,275 --> 00:32:30,241 The politics of the harem was much more complex 593 00:32:30,241 --> 00:32:32,068 than we might imagine. 594 00:32:34,862 --> 00:32:39,137 ♪♪ 595 00:32:39,137 --> 00:32:42,413 Nowhere can this be seen better than in the relationship 596 00:32:42,413 --> 00:32:44,448 between the Mughal emperor Jahangir 597 00:32:44,448 --> 00:32:47,310 and his charismatic wife Nur Jahan. 598 00:32:47,310 --> 00:32:49,517 -♪ Today is gonna be the day ♪ 599 00:32:49,517 --> 00:32:51,758 ♪ That they're gonna give it back to you ♪ 600 00:32:51,758 --> 00:32:55,482 -Born on a caravan travelling from Tehran to India, 601 00:32:55,482 --> 00:33:00,206 she became the last but most beloved wife of the Emperor. 602 00:33:00,206 --> 00:33:03,517 Jahangir's two brothers had died of alcoholism 603 00:33:03,517 --> 00:33:06,586 and, as Crown Prince, he was not much better himself, 604 00:33:06,586 --> 00:33:10,517 being heavily addicted to opium. 605 00:33:10,517 --> 00:33:12,310 So when he came to the throne, 606 00:33:12,310 --> 00:33:14,448 he depended completely on his favourite wife 607 00:33:14,448 --> 00:33:15,862 to run the kingdom, 608 00:33:15,862 --> 00:33:19,413 while he built rock star extravaganzas like this -- 609 00:33:19,413 --> 00:33:23,206 a minaret in which to keep one of his favourite pet deer. 610 00:33:24,620 --> 00:33:28,034 This was, of course, the long summer of the Mughal Empire, 611 00:33:28,034 --> 00:33:30,034 and with Nur Jahan by his side, 612 00:33:30,034 --> 00:33:31,862 Jahangir patronised the arts 613 00:33:31,862 --> 00:33:34,172 and built beautiful buildings. 614 00:33:34,172 --> 00:33:36,551 This was a relationship based on love, 615 00:33:36,551 --> 00:33:38,448 as well as political power. 616 00:33:38,448 --> 00:33:42,965 And in a real sense, they ruled the empire together. 617 00:33:42,965 --> 00:33:50,068 ♪♪ 618 00:33:50,068 --> 00:33:57,034 ♪♪ 619 00:33:57,034 --> 00:34:01,793 Just a step behind the magnificent public balcony 620 00:34:01,793 --> 00:34:06,655 where the Emperor sat to give audience is this darker chamber, 621 00:34:06,655 --> 00:34:10,034 which was actually the nerve centre of power. 622 00:34:10,034 --> 00:34:11,137 And who was here? 623 00:34:11,137 --> 00:34:13,310 It was Nur Jahan, his beloved wife, 624 00:34:13,310 --> 00:34:15,379 the Empress, the Mughal empress. 625 00:34:15,379 --> 00:34:19,862 And she actually held a lot of power in the Mughal court 626 00:34:19,862 --> 00:34:21,413 and made many of the decisions. 627 00:34:21,413 --> 00:34:24,551 So she was effectively standing just over his shoulder 628 00:34:24,551 --> 00:34:27,551 whispering in his ear, directing him. 629 00:34:27,551 --> 00:34:30,793 ♪♪ 630 00:34:30,793 --> 00:34:34,724 So this series of chambers, private chambers, 631 00:34:34,724 --> 00:34:39,448 was actually built for Nur Jahan by Jahangir, 632 00:34:39,448 --> 00:34:44,379 and she traversed these spaces in privacy, 633 00:34:44,379 --> 00:34:49,172 but completely connected to the public government 634 00:34:49,172 --> 00:34:53,758 imperial decisions that he was making just a few feet away. 635 00:34:53,758 --> 00:34:57,172 Despite the dust and graffiti of centuries, 636 00:34:57,172 --> 00:34:59,482 you can really get a sense of how magnificent 637 00:34:59,482 --> 00:35:03,103 these private quarters were. 638 00:35:03,103 --> 00:35:07,206 I particularly love this space because if you look up, 639 00:35:07,206 --> 00:35:09,655 the ceiling is covered with mirrors. 640 00:35:09,655 --> 00:35:12,379 And there's also -- there's a little bit of restoration work 641 00:35:12,379 --> 00:35:16,758 that's taken place which shows you the depth of colour 642 00:35:16,758 --> 00:35:19,689 that actually there would have been during the time 643 00:35:19,689 --> 00:35:22,862 that Nur Jahan would have been walking through these rooms. 644 00:35:22,862 --> 00:35:27,551 And there are remnants still of gold paint and blue. 645 00:35:27,551 --> 00:35:30,275 This really would have been a sumptuous 646 00:35:30,275 --> 00:35:34,068 interior chamber for the Empress Nur Jahan. 647 00:35:36,344 --> 00:35:40,551 Her grip on the reins of imperial power was absolute. 648 00:35:40,551 --> 00:35:42,379 But such were the rules of purdah, 649 00:35:42,379 --> 00:35:44,931 that no other men ever got to see her face. 650 00:35:44,931 --> 00:35:49,172 Not even, bizarrely, the artist who painted her portrait. 651 00:35:50,379 --> 00:35:54,137 So, Salima, this is a very intimate image 652 00:35:54,137 --> 00:35:56,758 of the private quarters... -Yes. 653 00:35:56,758 --> 00:35:58,206 -...of a high-class lady. 654 00:35:58,206 --> 00:36:02,068 -Yes, and preparing herself for, you know, her toilette, 655 00:36:02,068 --> 00:36:04,827 and obviously preparing herself for something important. 656 00:36:04,827 --> 00:36:09,137 And when you consider that it is invariably a male artist 657 00:36:09,137 --> 00:36:12,862 who is doing this and with no access... 658 00:36:12,862 --> 00:36:15,275 -So there would have been no access, certainly not this kind? 659 00:36:15,275 --> 00:36:16,724 -Absolutely. No, no. No access at all. 660 00:36:16,724 --> 00:36:19,275 So this is kind of second-hand information 661 00:36:19,275 --> 00:36:22,862 which was fed to the artist and presumably... 662 00:36:22,862 --> 00:36:24,655 -Through who? 663 00:36:24,655 --> 00:36:26,517 -Presumably through the informants. 664 00:36:26,517 --> 00:36:28,965 [ Laughter ] 665 00:36:28,965 --> 00:36:31,241 So, you know, there's a lot of imagination, 666 00:36:31,241 --> 00:36:34,827 a little bit of fantasy, which is involved in this. 667 00:36:34,827 --> 00:36:38,689 So, but then the other ways in which, presumably, 668 00:36:38,689 --> 00:36:41,448 they got to know what women did, what they got up to. 669 00:36:41,448 --> 00:36:43,206 So you find you do have works... 670 00:36:43,206 --> 00:36:48,620 I mean, for example, that one, in which there's a rival life 671 00:36:48,620 --> 00:36:51,965 going on in the women's quarters, in which the -- 672 00:36:51,965 --> 00:36:53,344 -Amongst the women themselves. 673 00:36:53,344 --> 00:36:55,620 -Yeah, and they are enjoying themselves. 674 00:36:55,620 --> 00:36:58,689 They have some of the same pastimes as men, actually. 675 00:36:58,689 --> 00:37:00,448 They're smoking, they're, you know... 676 00:37:00,448 --> 00:37:02,551 -Drinking. -Uh, I don't know 677 00:37:02,551 --> 00:37:04,517 whether they were drinking the same things, 678 00:37:04,517 --> 00:37:07,551 but presumably they were having a jolly good time. 679 00:37:07,551 --> 00:37:15,137 ♪♪ 680 00:37:15,137 --> 00:37:16,827 -Jahangir's reign was a golden age 681 00:37:16,827 --> 00:37:22,137 that only came to an end with his death in 1627. 682 00:37:22,137 --> 00:37:23,379 The tomb that was built for him 683 00:37:23,379 --> 00:37:26,068 was magnificent in its ostentation. 684 00:37:26,068 --> 00:37:31,655 ♪♪ 685 00:37:31,655 --> 00:37:35,551 The building was clad in zigzags of white and yellow marble, 686 00:37:35,551 --> 00:37:39,482 and there was once an ornate pavilion built here on the roof. 687 00:37:41,551 --> 00:37:46,172 But not far away is the much smaller mausoleum of Nur Jahan. 688 00:37:47,758 --> 00:37:50,827 She had tried to intervene with Jahangir's succession, 689 00:37:50,827 --> 00:37:53,034 and as a consequence was confined to Lahore 690 00:37:53,034 --> 00:37:55,724 for the rest of her days. 691 00:37:55,724 --> 00:37:58,655 She lies not alongside the love of her life, 692 00:37:58,655 --> 00:38:02,275 but beside her daughter, in an unassuming tomb 693 00:38:02,275 --> 00:38:04,758 she had to build for herself. 694 00:38:04,758 --> 00:38:10,896 ♪♪ 695 00:38:10,896 --> 00:38:17,137 ♪♪ 696 00:38:17,137 --> 00:38:19,620 But to remember Nur Jahan best, 697 00:38:19,620 --> 00:38:22,793 I've been allowed to return to the beautiful Palace Of Mirrors 698 00:38:22,793 --> 00:38:25,655 in the women's quarters of the Lahore Fort 699 00:38:25,655 --> 00:38:28,896 at night when it's empty and deserted. 700 00:38:28,896 --> 00:38:34,655 ♪♪ 701 00:38:34,655 --> 00:38:40,103 ♪♪ 702 00:38:40,103 --> 00:38:44,137 This surely is her true spiritual resting place -- 703 00:38:44,137 --> 00:38:46,379 as a woman who patronised the arts 704 00:38:46,379 --> 00:38:49,172 and helped make Lahore a glittering centre 705 00:38:49,172 --> 00:38:52,137 for artists and writers. 706 00:38:52,137 --> 00:38:54,137 As it still is. 707 00:38:54,137 --> 00:38:56,482 [ Laughter ] 708 00:38:56,482 --> 00:39:01,206 [ Indistinct conversations ] 709 00:39:01,206 --> 00:39:03,000 -[ Speaks native language ] 710 00:39:03,000 --> 00:39:05,034 -Today Lahore is a complex city. 711 00:39:05,034 --> 00:39:08,172 Hi, I'm Sona. -Hello, how are you? 712 00:39:08,172 --> 00:39:09,551 -[ Laughs ] 713 00:39:09,551 --> 00:39:12,827 -Lahore is a very spiritual city 714 00:39:12,827 --> 00:39:17,793 because here you find all the arts. 715 00:39:17,793 --> 00:39:22,931 It is also a city of music and of politics. 716 00:39:22,931 --> 00:39:29,551 ♪♪ 717 00:39:29,551 --> 00:39:32,482 -It's at parties like this that you can really sense 718 00:39:32,482 --> 00:39:35,896 that visual artists, writers, poets in Pakistan today 719 00:39:35,896 --> 00:39:39,413 are really engaging with the rich cultural past 720 00:39:39,413 --> 00:39:41,586 and unpicking it and exposing it, 721 00:39:41,586 --> 00:39:45,103 and exploring it, to reveal that this isn't just a country 722 00:39:45,103 --> 00:39:47,379 with a 50-year Islamic history, 723 00:39:47,379 --> 00:39:50,275 that there's something much, much deeper. 724 00:39:50,275 --> 00:39:54,689 [ Indistinct conversations ] 725 00:39:54,689 --> 00:39:57,275 One of the artists at the party has produced a work 726 00:39:57,275 --> 00:39:59,137 that has become famous 727 00:39:59,137 --> 00:40:04,344 and which explores the tensions between old and new Pakistan, 728 00:40:04,344 --> 00:40:08,034 and its relationship with the West. 729 00:40:08,034 --> 00:40:12,586 I've been particularly drawn to this remarkable series 730 00:40:12,586 --> 00:40:14,586 that you did called The Veil. 731 00:40:14,586 --> 00:40:18,793 Can you tell me, firstly, what inspired you? 732 00:40:18,793 --> 00:40:23,482 What was the moment that made you choose this subject? 733 00:40:23,482 --> 00:40:29,620 -I was intrigued to see in this post-9/11 period, 734 00:40:29,620 --> 00:40:32,965 to see Western media in particular, 735 00:40:32,965 --> 00:40:36,000 whenever there was a mention of a Muslim country, 736 00:40:36,000 --> 00:40:40,689 it will be referenced with the image of a veiled woman. 737 00:40:40,689 --> 00:40:42,103 And... 738 00:40:42,103 --> 00:40:45,896 so, in a way, I think it kind of reduces 739 00:40:45,896 --> 00:40:50,965 the representation of women from a certain part of the world, 740 00:40:50,965 --> 00:40:55,172 which made me think of another simplification of the woman 741 00:40:55,172 --> 00:40:57,448 in the minds of the men, 742 00:40:57,448 --> 00:41:00,517 especially, from the non-Western world, 743 00:41:00,517 --> 00:41:03,172 because of their exposure to pornography. 744 00:41:04,482 --> 00:41:07,551 -What is amazing about this work is that Rashid has used 745 00:41:07,551 --> 00:41:10,103 this process of photomontage. 746 00:41:10,103 --> 00:41:11,793 When you look at it from a distance, 747 00:41:11,793 --> 00:41:15,103 it looks like a burqa-clad woman wearing a veil. 748 00:41:15,103 --> 00:41:17,034 But look close up, and it is made up 749 00:41:17,034 --> 00:41:19,482 of tiny images of pornography, 750 00:41:19,482 --> 00:41:21,724 captured from the Internet. 751 00:41:21,724 --> 00:41:24,137 The artist is playing with the contradictions 752 00:41:24,137 --> 00:41:27,586 of the perceptions that we have in apparent distinctions 753 00:41:27,586 --> 00:41:31,137 of what goes on in the East and the West. 754 00:41:35,655 --> 00:41:39,275 Pakistan has a population of over 200 million people, 755 00:41:39,275 --> 00:41:41,172 greater than Russia. 756 00:41:41,172 --> 00:41:43,551 Its position at the crossroads of Asia 757 00:41:43,551 --> 00:41:46,965 makes it crucial to world politics. 758 00:41:46,965 --> 00:41:49,965 And yet my journey through the country has been a reminder 759 00:41:49,965 --> 00:41:53,862 of how little outsiders know about its complicated past 760 00:41:53,862 --> 00:41:56,344 and equally complicated present. 761 00:41:57,931 --> 00:42:01,206 Today, Pakistan is searching for its identity. 762 00:42:01,206 --> 00:42:05,413 Not because it doesn't have one, but because this civilisation, 763 00:42:05,413 --> 00:42:07,517 this 5,000-year-old civilisation, 764 00:42:07,517 --> 00:42:10,655 is so textured, so multi-layered. 765 00:42:10,655 --> 00:42:14,000 And some of that history is shared and contested 766 00:42:14,000 --> 00:42:17,827 with its neighbour India, but a lot of it isn't, 767 00:42:17,827 --> 00:42:20,137 for this was always a frontier land 768 00:42:20,137 --> 00:42:23,827 between India to the south, China to the North, Afghanistan, 769 00:42:23,827 --> 00:42:26,896 Iran, and Ancient Babylon and Greece. 770 00:42:26,896 --> 00:42:29,000 And running through this, like an artery, 771 00:42:29,000 --> 00:42:32,137 nourishing the civilisations that have lived here, 772 00:42:32,137 --> 00:42:33,689 has been the River Indus. 773 00:42:33,689 --> 00:42:42,827 ♪♪ 774 00:42:42,827 --> 00:42:51,965 ♪♪ 775 00:42:51,965 --> 00:43:01,206 ♪♪ 60306

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