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Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:01,835 --> 00:00:03,253 [TV static drones] 2 00:00:03,253 --> 00:00:05,714 [bright tone] 3 00:00:07,173 --> 00:00:09,509 [bell dings] 4 00:00:15,306 --> 00:00:17,684 [ding] 5 00:00:22,647 --> 00:00:24,899 [ding] 6 00:00:24,899 --> 00:00:28,570 The mindfulness bell just went off on my phone. 7 00:00:28,570 --> 00:00:32,449 So the bell invites us to take a mindful breath. 8 00:00:32,449 --> 00:00:35,577 And one of Thích Nhat Hanh's sutras that he says 9 00:00:35,577 --> 00:00:41,875 is, "Breathing in, I relax my mind and my body. 10 00:00:41,875 --> 00:00:44,836 "Breathing out, I smile. 11 00:00:44,836 --> 00:00:48,298 I know this is a wonderful moment." 12 00:00:50,049 --> 00:00:52,135 The boys are waiting. They're probably gonna yell at me. 13 00:00:52,135 --> 00:00:54,137 [jaunty music] 14 00:00:54,137 --> 00:00:56,848 Is CJ like all the other big-wave surfers at Nazaré, 15 00:00:56,848 --> 00:01:00,560 or does he kind of, like, forge a different path? 16 00:01:00,560 --> 00:01:03,813 Well, CJ is isn't really a big-wave surfer. 17 00:01:03,813 --> 00:01:06,274 ♪ ♪ 18 00:01:06,274 --> 00:01:08,651 He's definitely been a surfer his whole life, 19 00:01:08,651 --> 00:01:10,570 and he used to enter contests back in the day, 20 00:01:10,570 --> 00:01:12,197 but it was, like, 21 00:01:12,197 --> 00:01:15,867 two-foot Florida. That's what they grew up on. 22 00:01:15,867 --> 00:01:18,453 Whenever CJ wants to be out in the water, 23 00:01:18,453 --> 00:01:20,622 he's phenomenal. Like, he-- 24 00:01:20,622 --> 00:01:25,168 he is one of those truly soul surfers. 25 00:01:25,168 --> 00:01:26,544 I mean, I brought him to Hawaii, 26 00:01:26,544 --> 00:01:28,713 and he went to Pipeline and got the wave 27 00:01:28,713 --> 00:01:31,174 that pipeline surfers dream of getting. 28 00:01:31,174 --> 00:01:33,676 He got it his first session out 29 00:01:33,676 --> 00:01:34,969 but never went back. 30 00:01:36,763 --> 00:01:39,682 He wants to have this clear vision 31 00:01:39,682 --> 00:01:40,725 and these clear goals, 32 00:01:40,725 --> 00:01:45,855 but he gets so caught up overthinking everything. 33 00:01:45,855 --> 00:01:52,320 ♪ ♪ 34 00:01:52,320 --> 00:01:55,698 I've seen two sides to CJ, and they're like, 35 00:01:55,698 --> 00:01:56,866 take it or leave it, you know. 36 00:01:56,866 --> 00:01:58,868 Like, not that bothered, and then, like, beast mode. 37 00:02:01,037 --> 00:02:02,705 I really don't know what's his goal-- 38 00:02:02,705 --> 00:02:04,499 if he wants to ride the biggest waves, 39 00:02:04,499 --> 00:02:06,751 if he's being dragged by Garrett, 40 00:02:06,751 --> 00:02:08,920 if he wants to do yoga on a surfboard... 41 00:02:08,920 --> 00:02:12,048 ♪ ♪ 42 00:02:12,048 --> 00:02:13,383 He doesn't need to prove anything. 43 00:02:13,383 --> 00:02:15,885 He's surfed waves, he's driven Garrett, 44 00:02:15,885 --> 00:02:17,595 done safety, done everything. 45 00:02:17,595 --> 00:02:20,223 ♪ ♪ 46 00:02:20,223 --> 00:02:23,810 Do you feel like CJ has something to prove? 47 00:02:23,810 --> 00:02:26,813 I think people have no idea of who CJ is 48 00:02:26,813 --> 00:02:28,898 or what he's capable of. 49 00:02:28,898 --> 00:02:35,947 ♪ ♪ 50 00:02:45,123 --> 00:02:48,126 [dramatic music] 51 00:02:48,126 --> 00:02:54,215 ♪ ♪ 52 00:03:10,982 --> 00:03:15,236 When Tony didn't compete for the WSL events, 53 00:03:15,236 --> 00:03:20,742 I was, for sure, upset and disappointed for him. 54 00:03:20,742 --> 00:03:24,120 I could tell his frustration. 55 00:03:24,120 --> 00:03:25,580 [doorbell dings] 56 00:03:25,580 --> 00:03:27,123 Oh, yeah, yeah. 57 00:03:31,294 --> 00:03:35,006 [all greeting in French] 58 00:03:45,516 --> 00:03:49,646 {\an8}- We saw one swell going to Madeira, 59 00:03:49,646 --> 00:03:51,898 {\an8}and we have some contacts, and they were like, 60 00:03:51,898 --> 00:03:53,441 {\an8}"Hey, you guys should come. 61 00:03:53,441 --> 00:03:58,029 {\an8}It's gonna be a great, great day for training, for surfing." 62 00:03:58,029 --> 00:04:01,950 When Justine and Fred asked me if I want to go with them, 63 00:04:01,950 --> 00:04:03,576 I just got really happy. 64 00:04:03,576 --> 00:04:06,579 Up. Away, Papa. [laughs] 65 00:04:06,579 --> 00:04:07,997 - Bye. - Obrigado. 66 00:04:07,997 --> 00:04:09,207 {\an8}Bye, Papa. 67 00:04:09,207 --> 00:04:12,543 {\an8}[speaking Portuguese] 68 00:04:17,757 --> 00:04:21,010 [Canned Heat's "Going Up The Country"] 69 00:04:21,010 --> 00:04:25,890 The trip helped me to forget everything about the contest. 70 00:04:25,890 --> 00:04:28,893 Okay, the family is going to holidays! 71 00:04:28,893 --> 00:04:30,895 ♪ I'm going up the country ♪ 72 00:04:30,895 --> 00:04:34,774 ♪ Baby, don't you wanna go? ♪ 73 00:04:34,774 --> 00:04:36,275 {\an8}♪ I'm going up the country ♪ 74 00:04:39,737 --> 00:04:41,072 {\an8}Big wave. Yeah, yeah. 75 00:04:41,072 --> 00:04:44,409 It's gonna be the first one of a lot of trips. 76 00:04:44,409 --> 00:04:45,702 - Yeah? - Yeah. 77 00:04:45,702 --> 00:04:46,786 ♪ ♪ 78 00:04:46,786 --> 00:04:48,204 ♪ I'm going, I'm going ♪ 79 00:04:48,204 --> 00:04:52,500 ♪ Where the water tastes like wine ♪ 80 00:04:52,500 --> 00:04:56,587 ♪ I'm going where the water tastes like wine ♪ 81 00:04:56,587 --> 00:04:58,089 - Go see. - Oh! 82 00:04:58,089 --> 00:05:00,383 - Oh. - Oh. 83 00:05:00,383 --> 00:05:04,137 Oh la la. Oh la la! 84 00:05:05,847 --> 00:05:07,265 [laughs] 85 00:05:07,265 --> 00:05:10,351 Go see. No way. 86 00:05:11,644 --> 00:05:13,021 I'm in love with this. 87 00:05:13,980 --> 00:05:16,941 {\an8}[speaking French] 88 00:05:18,484 --> 00:05:20,153 {\an8}[both laugh] 89 00:05:35,793 --> 00:05:41,799 ♪ ♪ 90 00:05:49,891 --> 00:05:54,437 This is what I want to do for the rest of my life. 91 00:05:54,437 --> 00:05:57,231 To not stay always in Nazaré. 92 00:05:57,231 --> 00:05:59,233 It's already the beginning of the dream. 93 00:05:59,233 --> 00:06:01,527 Like, start traveling to surf big waves. 94 00:06:01,527 --> 00:06:07,033 ♪ ♪ 95 00:06:07,033 --> 00:06:09,994 During that contest, it made me realize 96 00:06:09,994 --> 00:06:14,248 how the good partner is so important for me. 97 00:06:14,248 --> 00:06:17,794 Like, how do you like each other? 98 00:06:17,794 --> 00:06:21,464 How do you commit? How do you do this together? 99 00:06:21,464 --> 00:06:23,883 Tony was used to surf with his dad. 100 00:06:23,883 --> 00:06:26,302 I was used to surf with my boyfriend. 101 00:06:26,302 --> 00:06:29,138 So, it was good to spend time with him 102 00:06:29,138 --> 00:06:33,976 and make me remember the beginning of my career, too. 103 00:06:33,976 --> 00:06:36,312 It's the best, the beginning when you know nothing. 104 00:06:36,312 --> 00:06:38,106 Things full of a none. 105 00:06:38,106 --> 00:06:39,690 See you. 106 00:06:41,109 --> 00:06:42,568 [laughter] 107 00:06:44,445 --> 00:06:46,072 Surfing with her, it's almost the same 108 00:06:46,072 --> 00:06:47,406 as surfing with my father, you know. 109 00:06:47,406 --> 00:06:50,535 I don't feel pressure. I don't feel that I'm working. 110 00:07:03,339 --> 00:07:05,550 - And now. - [laughs] 111 00:07:05,550 --> 00:07:07,677 While I'm with them, all the time, 112 00:07:07,677 --> 00:07:10,346 - joke, messing around. - Good first trip. 113 00:07:10,346 --> 00:07:11,514 First big wave big boy. 114 00:07:11,514 --> 00:07:13,057 I feel really comfortable with them. 115 00:07:13,057 --> 00:07:15,518 Like family. 116 00:07:15,518 --> 00:07:17,854 He had a good and positive effect on me. 117 00:07:17,854 --> 00:07:21,482 He was, like, good vibes, really good vibes. 118 00:07:21,482 --> 00:07:26,028 Yeah, it was really like a beginning of a story for us. 119 00:07:26,028 --> 00:07:29,031 Yeah, I'm exciting for the future with him. 120 00:07:41,961 --> 00:07:43,087 [dog barking] 121 00:07:45,006 --> 00:07:47,216 Hey. 122 00:07:47,216 --> 00:07:51,512 After the baby was born, I just have turned into 123 00:07:51,512 --> 00:07:53,264 a voyeur for a while. 124 00:07:53,264 --> 00:07:57,059 ♪ ♪ 125 00:07:57,059 --> 00:07:59,896 Look at the four surfers out. 126 00:07:59,896 --> 00:08:02,523 I got no desire to surf. 127 00:08:02,523 --> 00:08:04,859 Nowadays, I can watch guys get waves, 128 00:08:04,859 --> 00:08:06,402 and I'm totally content. 129 00:08:06,402 --> 00:08:09,197 I don't have FOMO anymore. 130 00:08:09,197 --> 00:08:11,365 No, no, no! 131 00:08:11,365 --> 00:08:12,742 You're gonna go timeout again. 132 00:08:12,742 --> 00:08:14,076 You're not supposed to be screaming. 133 00:08:14,076 --> 00:08:16,787 After Fe was born, it's just-- 134 00:08:16,787 --> 00:08:18,497 life is completely different. 135 00:08:18,497 --> 00:08:23,920 So, let's say all the sounds in the word "at." 136 00:08:23,920 --> 00:08:25,755 - At. - T-- 137 00:08:25,755 --> 00:08:27,757 You know, Garrett really settled in 138 00:08:27,757 --> 00:08:30,301 and enjoyed being here with the family. 139 00:08:30,301 --> 00:08:31,636 Did you know that Dad likes reading? 140 00:08:31,636 --> 00:08:33,429 I love reading. 141 00:08:33,429 --> 00:08:34,722 I do. 142 00:08:34,722 --> 00:08:36,599 You know, his priority's changing, 143 00:08:36,599 --> 00:08:38,476 and, you know, he seems really happy. 144 00:08:38,476 --> 00:08:40,019 Oh. 145 00:08:43,648 --> 00:08:44,690 {\an8}[laughs] 146 00:08:44,690 --> 00:08:47,235 But now figuring out good partners, 147 00:08:47,235 --> 00:08:49,070 good safety, good communication-- 148 00:08:49,070 --> 00:08:51,530 you know, like, it's definitely harder. 149 00:08:53,866 --> 00:08:56,369 {\an8}What up? Did you see the waves before dark? 150 00:08:58,162 --> 00:08:59,747 {\an8}Good--yeah, it's just smaller, 151 00:08:59,747 --> 00:09:03,668 {\an8}but tomorrow morning could be potentially pretty big, so... 152 00:09:03,668 --> 00:09:07,129 The last contest, 153 00:09:07,129 --> 00:09:10,132 it was just such a shitshow. 154 00:09:10,132 --> 00:09:13,177 You know, it was a perfect royal go left 155 00:09:13,177 --> 00:09:14,929 and then I'd ended up, like, not going anywhere, 156 00:09:14,929 --> 00:09:17,515 just going straight and getting pounded so hard. 157 00:09:17,515 --> 00:09:19,100 [wave pounds] 158 00:09:19,100 --> 00:09:21,644 I just, like--felt like just driving over my surf board. 159 00:09:21,644 --> 00:09:23,771 And then, like, I just wanted to just, like-- 160 00:09:23,771 --> 00:09:25,106 "Wow, I don't wanna see these things ever again. 161 00:09:25,106 --> 00:09:26,232 I hate 'em." 162 00:09:26,232 --> 00:09:28,067 Check out Andrew Cotton, here. 163 00:09:28,067 --> 00:09:31,153 And he'll get absolutely blown up. 164 00:09:31,153 --> 00:09:35,074 I don't wanna be remembered for--for wiping out. 165 00:09:35,074 --> 00:09:38,369 The goal is to ride, you know, the tallest wave. 166 00:09:38,369 --> 00:09:40,454 You achieve that by being in every swell, 167 00:09:40,454 --> 00:09:43,624 being healthy, and just choosing your moments. 168 00:09:43,624 --> 00:09:45,543 All right, is CJ gonna come out? 169 00:09:47,753 --> 00:09:48,671 {\an8}All right. 170 00:09:48,671 --> 00:09:49,672 [Pedro Paulo's "Nazaré"] 171 00:09:49,672 --> 00:09:52,008 [lighter flicking] 172 00:09:52,008 --> 00:09:55,303 ♪ ♪ 173 00:09:55,303 --> 00:09:58,347 [singing in Portuguese] 174 00:09:58,347 --> 00:10:00,016 [singing along] 175 00:10:00,016 --> 00:10:02,685 This season, the calling was clear 176 00:10:02,685 --> 00:10:04,020 that I'm supposed to be here. 177 00:10:04,020 --> 00:10:05,646 ♪ Nazaré ♪ 178 00:10:05,646 --> 00:10:09,358 See where I kinda can fit in and how I'm feeling. 179 00:10:09,358 --> 00:10:14,488 I haven't really towed into big waves in a while. 180 00:10:14,488 --> 00:10:15,823 After that trip to Jaws 181 00:10:15,823 --> 00:10:18,034 {\an8}and the experience that I had there, 182 00:10:18,034 --> 00:10:22,204 {\an8}feeling myself out with all these legendary masters 183 00:10:22,204 --> 00:10:24,206 {\an8}of Jaws and tow surfing. 184 00:10:24,206 --> 00:10:27,918 It really, like, stoked the fire. 185 00:10:27,918 --> 00:10:29,712 But yeah, being out there with Garrett 186 00:10:29,712 --> 00:10:33,382 reflects a lot of insecurities, maybe, about worthiness 187 00:10:33,382 --> 00:10:35,217 to be on the wave 'cause, well, yeah, 188 00:10:35,217 --> 00:10:38,179 he's my brother-in-law; he has to bring me out, you know. 189 00:10:38,179 --> 00:10:40,306 I got a message from Garrett. 190 00:10:47,897 --> 00:10:51,317 "As much as humanly possible." 191 00:10:51,317 --> 00:10:53,110 That's, like, his favorite line. 192 00:10:53,110 --> 00:10:57,406 Okay, so I'm gonna bring my wet wetsuits over to Perfect Waves. 193 00:10:57,406 --> 00:10:59,283 I'll meet you there, and I'll change when we go. 194 00:10:59,283 --> 00:11:00,534 Yeah. Tchau, tchau. 195 00:11:00,534 --> 00:11:01,827 See you, buddy. 196 00:11:03,412 --> 00:11:06,207 {\an8}- Alemao--the master, the captain. 197 00:11:06,207 --> 00:11:07,208 You know, when he goes out there, 198 00:11:07,208 --> 00:11:09,752 I think he really sees himself as the master, 199 00:11:09,752 --> 00:11:14,298 the uncle of the lineup. 200 00:11:14,298 --> 00:11:15,424 Yeah! 201 00:11:15,424 --> 00:11:18,094 Alemao is one of the best drivers, full stop. 202 00:11:18,094 --> 00:11:21,847 Best tow driver, best rescue guy. 203 00:11:22,515 --> 00:11:25,935 No doubt in my mind that if he puts me into a wave, 204 00:11:25,935 --> 00:11:27,812 he's gonna come get me. 205 00:11:29,397 --> 00:11:32,358 {\an8}[speaking Portuguese] 206 00:11:45,037 --> 00:11:46,247 Never tried this thing before, 207 00:11:46,247 --> 00:11:49,083 but I think I might want some extra today. 208 00:11:49,083 --> 00:11:50,584 - CJ. - Yo? 209 00:11:52,378 --> 00:11:54,338 {\an8}[imitates ripping] 210 00:11:54,338 --> 00:11:56,006 {\an8}Cool, thank you. 211 00:11:56,549 --> 00:11:59,343 See, that's why I hang with the guys who know what's up. 212 00:12:01,137 --> 00:12:04,098 {\an8}[speaking Portuguese] 213 00:12:12,231 --> 00:12:15,151 [thrilling string music] 214 00:12:15,151 --> 00:12:16,235 Yeah. 215 00:12:17,194 --> 00:12:20,156 {\an8}[speaking Portuguese] 216 00:12:42,470 --> 00:12:44,680 I love surfing with Alemao you know, like, 217 00:12:44,680 --> 00:12:47,183 'cause I can enjoy it and not put too much pressure on it 218 00:12:47,183 --> 00:12:49,685 and, you know, maybe take a leaf out CJ's book, 219 00:12:49,685 --> 00:12:52,146 and I might not take it too seriously, you know, like-- 220 00:12:54,940 --> 00:12:56,108 {\an8}Yeah. 221 00:12:57,651 --> 00:13:00,613 {\an8}[speaking Portuguese] 222 00:13:12,625 --> 00:13:19,590 ♪ ♪ 223 00:13:19,590 --> 00:13:21,383 I'm still learning, I realized this morning. 224 00:13:21,383 --> 00:13:23,802 I'm, like, learning how to surf, still. 225 00:13:29,391 --> 00:13:30,809 [laughs] 226 00:13:36,565 --> 00:13:37,733 {\an8}What? 227 00:13:37,733 --> 00:13:39,193 {\an8}- Wow. - Pumping Friday. 228 00:13:39,193 --> 00:13:40,569 {\an8}- Wow. - Pumping Saturday. 229 00:13:40,569 --> 00:13:42,863 - Okay. - Paddle, tow, paddle, tow, 230 00:13:42,863 --> 00:13:46,033 paddle, tow, get barreled. 231 00:13:46,033 --> 00:13:47,785 It's amazing. What are you gonna do, 232 00:13:47,785 --> 00:13:49,578 spend the whole two weeks out there in the water 233 00:13:49,578 --> 00:13:51,580 {\an8}and never come in? 234 00:13:51,580 --> 00:13:54,583 {\an8}- You would? - Well, if I was maybe 21. 235 00:13:54,583 --> 00:13:56,627 - Yeah, right. - Not 42. 236 00:13:59,713 --> 00:14:01,382 - Yeah. - You know, you always 237 00:14:01,382 --> 00:14:03,133 - want more. - [laughs] Yeah. 238 00:14:03,133 --> 00:14:05,427 - Want more. - Want more. 239 00:14:05,427 --> 00:14:07,680 - But when's enough enough? - I don't know. 240 00:14:07,680 --> 00:14:10,182 - When are we satisfied? - Don't know. 241 00:14:35,916 --> 00:14:38,460 I hate it, honestly. [laughs] 242 00:14:38,460 --> 00:14:42,631 I'm not a patient guy. [laughter] 243 00:14:42,631 --> 00:14:45,676 My father's like, "Don't worry. Calm." 244 00:14:45,676 --> 00:14:50,306 - Calm, calm. - "Tranquilo." 245 00:14:50,306 --> 00:14:52,308 Since the trip we did to Medeira, 246 00:14:52,308 --> 00:14:56,353 I started to spend way more time with Justine. 247 00:14:56,353 --> 00:14:59,815 I liked the idea about teaming up with Tony. 248 00:14:59,815 --> 00:15:02,276 We didn't have that much experience 249 00:15:02,276 --> 00:15:07,114 driving the ski, so we could really, like, improve together. 250 00:15:07,114 --> 00:15:08,741 - Do it? I push? - No, no, it just-- 251 00:15:08,741 --> 00:15:11,035 No, no, it's okay. You can come from the ski. 252 00:15:11,035 --> 00:15:12,661 These ones are easy. 253 00:15:12,661 --> 00:15:15,289 I told her that I'm really nervous driving for you. 254 00:15:15,289 --> 00:15:16,999 And she was like, "Why?" 255 00:15:16,999 --> 00:15:20,502 Like, because it's you, you know? 256 00:15:20,502 --> 00:15:23,631 She just told me to, like, drive like I know. 257 00:15:23,631 --> 00:15:26,175 {\an8}[breezy music] 258 00:15:26,175 --> 00:15:29,219 {\an8}[speaking Portuguese] 259 00:15:41,148 --> 00:15:42,983 For Justine, it was a new start because 260 00:15:42,983 --> 00:15:45,944 she was feeling that I didn't want to drive in big waves. 261 00:15:45,944 --> 00:15:48,989 So it was a release for me to let them have fun. 262 00:15:48,989 --> 00:15:50,532 Perfection. 263 00:15:50,532 --> 00:15:53,827 I knew that Fredo, he don't like it anymore. 264 00:15:53,827 --> 00:15:56,830 Like, it was too much asking him 265 00:15:56,830 --> 00:16:00,000 to put me and to push me on a crazy wave. 266 00:16:00,000 --> 00:16:03,253 For sure, there's a risk with injury and all that. 267 00:16:03,253 --> 00:16:08,050 But it was tough because I'm confident with him. 268 00:16:08,050 --> 00:16:12,554 I really felt, like, kind of lost sometimes. 269 00:16:12,554 --> 00:16:15,599 {\an8}[both speaking French] 270 00:16:23,190 --> 00:16:25,067 I'm not doing it because I love it. 271 00:16:25,067 --> 00:16:26,819 I'm doing it because I need to do it. 272 00:16:26,819 --> 00:16:30,656 Because the most important is Justine to be safe. 273 00:16:30,656 --> 00:16:33,701 {\an8}[speaking French] 274 00:16:45,546 --> 00:16:48,549 [thunder rumbling] 275 00:16:51,969 --> 00:16:54,430 [wind rustling] 276 00:16:54,430 --> 00:16:57,433 [tense music] 277 00:16:57,433 --> 00:17:04,440 ♪ ♪ 278 00:17:18,704 --> 00:17:21,415 ♪ ♪ 279 00:17:21,415 --> 00:17:23,125 The wind is kinda complicated out there. 280 00:17:23,125 --> 00:17:25,127 You know, there's so much mist 281 00:17:25,127 --> 00:17:26,754 and it's a full fuckin' storm out there. 282 00:17:28,172 --> 00:17:30,340 {\an8}You really gotta be on your toes, you know. 283 00:17:30,340 --> 00:17:33,093 {\an8}But I like it. I like the dramatic look, 284 00:17:33,093 --> 00:17:36,054 {\an8}the wind, the clouds, the-- you know. 285 00:17:36,054 --> 00:17:39,308 This one. [all exclaim] 286 00:17:39,308 --> 00:17:41,143 Wow, stop. 287 00:17:41,143 --> 00:17:43,979 On that day, I can remember being on the very, um-- 288 00:17:43,979 --> 00:17:46,106 it's not, oh, you know, "Is anyone getting any waves?" 289 00:17:46,106 --> 00:17:48,817 See, I'm looking at these-- see the set here coming in now? 290 00:17:52,863 --> 00:17:54,740 {\an8}Yeah. I don't know. 291 00:17:54,740 --> 00:17:56,658 {\an8}How you feeling? What you thinking? 292 00:18:00,245 --> 00:18:02,414 That day, I said no, 293 00:18:02,414 --> 00:18:05,042 perhaps because I'm not feeling worthy to be out there, 294 00:18:05,042 --> 00:18:07,086 or not feeling confident. 295 00:18:10,881 --> 00:18:14,343 - [shutting door] - Let's put the fire on. 296 00:18:14,343 --> 00:18:17,679 We'll have a little day indoors now, shall we? 297 00:18:22,601 --> 00:18:24,812 The waves are definitely big, you know? 298 00:18:24,812 --> 00:18:28,106 It's just hard-- you know, it's hard to surf. 299 00:18:28,106 --> 00:18:30,234 But it's good training, so... 300 00:18:39,284 --> 00:18:41,995 If you said to Alemao, "Let's go," 301 00:18:41,995 --> 00:18:44,665 he would say, "I'll meet you in the harbor in ten minutes." 302 00:18:45,958 --> 00:18:48,710 Looks fucking horrible. 303 00:18:48,710 --> 00:18:50,546 [dog barking] 304 00:18:50,546 --> 00:18:53,549 {\an8}[speaking Portuguese] 305 00:19:03,767 --> 00:19:05,102 - See you in a bit. - See ya. 306 00:19:05,102 --> 00:19:06,687 - See you in a minute, buddy. - Take care. 307 00:19:06,687 --> 00:19:08,063 - Yep. - All right, now. 308 00:19:08,063 --> 00:19:09,731 Funny feeling, being standing here 309 00:19:09,731 --> 00:19:12,901 watching them go out, and I'm not going out. 310 00:19:12,901 --> 00:19:14,695 Am I gonna miss the wave of my life 311 00:19:14,695 --> 00:19:16,238 if I don't go out there? 312 00:19:16,238 --> 00:19:21,827 ♪ ♪ 313 00:19:23,287 --> 00:19:27,040 No. Not at all. 314 00:19:27,040 --> 00:19:29,543 I'm very happy right here on the land. 315 00:19:30,335 --> 00:19:32,421 It's nice to watch. 316 00:19:32,421 --> 00:19:34,339 Here they go. Here they go. 317 00:19:35,173 --> 00:19:36,550 Whoa. 318 00:19:43,265 --> 00:19:45,475 I'm up there, watching out for Cotty, 319 00:19:45,475 --> 00:19:47,269 and he got a couple really good waves. 320 00:19:49,855 --> 00:19:52,399 I see him catch this wave, and he kicks out. 321 00:19:52,399 --> 00:19:53,734 Oh! 322 00:19:53,734 --> 00:19:56,361 Cotton. He's in a bad spot. 323 00:20:02,492 --> 00:20:05,412 {\an8}[speaking Portuguese] 324 00:20:20,218 --> 00:20:22,137 [people exclaiming] 325 00:20:36,860 --> 00:20:38,695 [groaning] 326 00:20:48,205 --> 00:20:50,040 {\an8}No, but where's Cotty and Alemao? 327 00:20:50,040 --> 00:20:52,209 {\an8}Just don't worry about the ski, look at Cotty and Alemao. 328 00:20:52,209 --> 00:20:54,002 {\an8}[speaking Portuguese] 329 00:20:57,255 --> 00:20:58,715 {\an8}By the rock. 330 00:21:00,092 --> 00:21:01,635 {\an8}Tell him to go look for Cotty by the rocks. 331 00:21:03,553 --> 00:21:05,514 Tell Lucas to get in there. 332 00:21:05,514 --> 00:21:08,600 Who has Lucas-- who's Lucas' spotter? 333 00:21:09,935 --> 00:21:12,145 Fuck, I better go down there. 334 00:21:12,145 --> 00:21:15,190 Get with Cotty. Tell everyone to get Cotty. 335 00:21:15,190 --> 00:21:16,942 Fuck. 336 00:21:16,942 --> 00:21:19,653 [tense music] 337 00:21:19,653 --> 00:21:21,655 I did not see any-- all I thought was 338 00:21:21,655 --> 00:21:22,864 Cotty's on the rocks. 339 00:21:22,864 --> 00:21:25,826 ♪ ♪ 340 00:21:25,826 --> 00:21:28,537 {\an8}[speaking Portuguese] 341 00:21:30,622 --> 00:21:33,333 - He's there on the rock. - Ahh. 342 00:21:33,333 --> 00:21:35,043 Everyone's been up on that lighthouse. 343 00:21:35,043 --> 00:21:36,211 Everybody's looked down there. 344 00:21:36,211 --> 00:21:37,421 Everybody said to themselves, 345 00:21:37,421 --> 00:21:39,715 "If you get there, you're done." 346 00:21:39,715 --> 00:21:41,717 And he went straight in there. 347 00:21:41,717 --> 00:21:45,929 [people whistling, shouting] 348 00:21:45,929 --> 00:21:49,599 [shouting indistinctly] 349 00:21:49,599 --> 00:21:52,602 [dramatic music] 350 00:21:52,602 --> 00:21:56,189 ♪ ♪ 351 00:21:56,189 --> 00:21:59,901 [whistling] 352 00:21:59,901 --> 00:22:04,031 ♪ ♪ 353 00:22:04,031 --> 00:22:07,075 {\an8}[speaking Portuguese] 354 00:22:15,042 --> 00:22:16,793 And I turn to the beach, 355 00:22:16,793 --> 00:22:19,296 I saw Garrett just drop on the hill 356 00:22:19,296 --> 00:22:20,922 just, like, eyes on-- 357 00:22:20,922 --> 00:22:24,760 "Man! Where's Cotty? Are you good, Alemao?" 358 00:22:24,760 --> 00:22:26,762 - Are you all right? - Yeah. 359 00:22:26,762 --> 00:22:28,805 - Yeah, yeah. - I couldn't hold the ski. 360 00:22:28,805 --> 00:22:31,475 - But it hit my hands like-- - And Cotty was on the sled? 361 00:22:31,475 --> 00:22:33,101 Yeah, Cotty was there. 362 00:22:33,101 --> 00:22:35,145 And you went-- you guys split? 363 00:22:35,145 --> 00:22:37,355 ♪ ♪ 364 00:22:37,355 --> 00:22:38,482 I'm thinking, 365 00:22:38,482 --> 00:22:41,276 "He's on the rocks. He's gone." 366 00:22:41,276 --> 00:22:47,074 ♪ ♪ 367 00:22:47,074 --> 00:22:48,867 {\an8}[radio static] 368 00:22:50,368 --> 00:22:52,037 {\an8}How are you? Where are you? 369 00:22:55,123 --> 00:22:57,584 Alemao is fine. They got him next to the rocks 370 00:22:57,584 --> 00:22:58,835 and brought him up to the beach, he's fine. 371 00:22:58,835 --> 00:23:00,796 He's running around on the beach, helping. 372 00:23:13,892 --> 00:23:17,938 [waves pounding] 373 00:23:17,938 --> 00:23:20,941 ♪ ♪ 374 00:23:20,941 --> 00:23:23,819 That guy just passed through the rocks--Cotty. 375 00:23:23,819 --> 00:23:25,654 Can you imagine? 376 00:23:25,654 --> 00:23:28,698 {\an8}[both speaking Portuguese] 377 00:23:35,664 --> 00:23:38,125 [indistinct chatter] 378 00:23:51,972 --> 00:23:53,765 [exhales] 379 00:24:07,362 --> 00:24:09,781 [clears throat] Pointless. 380 00:24:12,200 --> 00:24:14,911 [somber music] 381 00:24:14,911 --> 00:24:16,454 I was just on the sled, and then, all of a sudden, 382 00:24:16,454 --> 00:24:17,998 like, we were in the air. 383 00:24:20,584 --> 00:24:21,543 I can remember looking down 384 00:24:21,543 --> 00:24:23,670 and seeing Alemao in the water. 385 00:24:23,670 --> 00:24:26,339 Real quick, I, like, climbed up to drive. 386 00:24:26,339 --> 00:24:28,884 And I thought Alemao said to me, 387 00:24:28,884 --> 00:24:31,011 "I'm on," like, "Clear." 388 00:24:31,011 --> 00:24:32,721 So I just sort of gunned it. 389 00:24:32,721 --> 00:24:35,807 [people exclaiming] 390 00:24:40,979 --> 00:24:43,857 I knew I was in a bad spot. 391 00:24:43,857 --> 00:24:45,150 It was like, "Oh, fuck, well, this is it." 392 00:24:45,150 --> 00:24:47,277 It's just like, I'm proper fucked, you know? 393 00:24:47,277 --> 00:24:50,655 Like, this could be, you know, it. 394 00:24:50,655 --> 00:24:52,324 And I was like, "Fuck, if this thing draws 395 00:24:52,324 --> 00:24:55,577 "and then, like, properly breaks, 396 00:24:55,577 --> 00:24:57,412 he gets smashed into the rocks." 397 00:24:57,412 --> 00:24:59,706 ♪ ♪ 398 00:24:59,706 --> 00:25:01,082 [whistling] 399 00:25:01,082 --> 00:25:03,251 My adrenaline was through the roof. 400 00:25:06,213 --> 00:25:09,674 And then, rather than break, it surged. 401 00:25:09,674 --> 00:25:12,594 So I was getting sucked out. 402 00:25:12,594 --> 00:25:15,388 And I got pushed through the other side. 403 00:25:15,388 --> 00:25:22,062 ♪ ♪ 404 00:25:22,062 --> 00:25:24,439 The ski was floating on the other side of the rocks. 405 00:25:26,983 --> 00:25:28,526 And I can remember getting on the ski 406 00:25:28,526 --> 00:25:30,028 and getting on the spare radio... 407 00:25:30,028 --> 00:25:31,488 [static crackling] 408 00:25:31,488 --> 00:25:33,281 So glad you're okay. 409 00:25:33,281 --> 00:25:35,283 And speaking to Garrett and Justine, 410 00:25:35,283 --> 00:25:36,743 and hearing Alemao was all right and everything-- 411 00:25:36,743 --> 00:25:39,287 that was like-- 412 00:25:39,287 --> 00:25:43,750 was like the best bit. 413 00:25:43,750 --> 00:25:45,502 Oh, here he is. 414 00:25:48,255 --> 00:25:49,297 Oh. 415 00:25:59,891 --> 00:26:01,810 {\an8}No. 416 00:26:01,810 --> 00:26:03,895 - You don't wanna see it. - Where is the video? 417 00:26:03,895 --> 00:26:06,564 [watching video on phone] Oh, my God. 418 00:26:09,693 --> 00:26:11,903 When you saw the video, were you annoyed, 419 00:26:11,903 --> 00:26:15,282 - like, this is-- - Um, I was just, you know, 420 00:26:15,282 --> 00:26:16,741 like, it's just stuff, for fuck's sake. 421 00:26:18,493 --> 00:26:19,995 Again, like, the wipeout had been the big news 422 00:26:19,995 --> 00:26:22,080 rather than, like, all the good waves 423 00:26:22,080 --> 00:26:25,333 {\an8}that I surfed last week or the week before. 424 00:26:25,333 --> 00:26:27,377 {\an8}Yeah, yeah, yeah. Just check out the rocks. 425 00:26:28,295 --> 00:26:30,255 {\an8}Yeah. Happy days. 426 00:26:35,760 --> 00:26:37,679 Yeah, just don't-- let it be. 427 00:26:37,679 --> 00:26:40,181 Let it do whatever it's gonna do. 428 00:26:40,181 --> 00:26:43,476 It doesn't matter. It really doesn't matter. 429 00:26:43,476 --> 00:26:47,647 It was one of the craziest things 430 00:26:47,647 --> 00:26:48,815 I've ever seen out here 431 00:26:48,815 --> 00:26:50,483 and craziest thing I've ever experienced, 432 00:26:50,483 --> 00:26:53,486 watching my best friend 433 00:26:53,486 --> 00:26:55,530 going into the rocks 434 00:26:55,530 --> 00:26:59,868 and not knowing if he was dead or not. 435 00:26:59,868 --> 00:27:02,996 [people shouting] 436 00:27:02,996 --> 00:27:05,206 [people whistling on phone] 437 00:27:05,206 --> 00:27:09,044 Dude, the way he's flopping off the rocks like that-- 438 00:27:09,044 --> 00:27:11,588 You know, seeing what happened with Cotty and Alemao 439 00:27:11,588 --> 00:27:15,050 and launching on skis and getting blasted and everything 440 00:27:15,050 --> 00:27:17,344 and me thinking, like, "Man, I don't wanna do that." 441 00:27:17,344 --> 00:27:19,596 You know, it's pretty extreme. 442 00:27:21,348 --> 00:27:24,559 It's definitely set me back in my ability to surf, 443 00:27:24,559 --> 00:27:28,396 or at least my confidence to be able to handle a wipeout. 444 00:27:33,485 --> 00:27:36,905 I was guided very clearly by Mother Nature, 445 00:27:36,905 --> 00:27:40,492 by life, to come to the ocean and make an offering. 446 00:27:40,492 --> 00:27:43,495 [ethereal music] 447 00:27:43,495 --> 00:27:45,246 ♪ ♪ 448 00:27:45,246 --> 00:27:49,167 This last week has been kinda tough. 449 00:27:49,167 --> 00:27:51,586 ♪ ♪ 450 00:27:51,586 --> 00:27:53,213 Mm. 451 00:27:59,511 --> 00:28:02,931 Just not feeling good enough to be out there, you know? 452 00:28:05,225 --> 00:28:06,601 So it's been really frustrating, 453 00:28:06,601 --> 00:28:09,938 but it's also been a very enlightening week. 454 00:28:12,148 --> 00:28:14,067 Yeah, I'm just at the point where I'm starting 455 00:28:14,067 --> 00:28:19,572 to manage the energy differently, you know, 456 00:28:19,572 --> 00:28:22,867 realize that I only have so much energy to offer. 457 00:28:24,536 --> 00:28:26,663 Yeah, so this week has been good 458 00:28:26,663 --> 00:28:28,915 in reminding me what's important. 459 00:28:35,797 --> 00:28:38,758 {\an8}[speaking Portuguese] 460 00:28:43,263 --> 00:28:45,723 {\an8}[sighs] 461 00:28:48,059 --> 00:28:50,979 {\an8}[speaking Portuguese] 462 00:29:02,031 --> 00:29:04,284 Wow, look at that. 463 00:29:04,284 --> 00:29:06,786 Whoo-hoo-hoo-hoo! 464 00:29:06,786 --> 00:29:08,037 Beautiful. 465 00:29:21,676 --> 00:29:24,637 {\an8}[speaking Portuguese] 466 00:29:35,356 --> 00:29:38,276 [majestic music] 467 00:29:38,276 --> 00:29:45,325 ♪ ♪ 468 00:30:08,848 --> 00:30:10,850 Going out there, surfing and training 469 00:30:10,850 --> 00:30:12,727 and connecting with Alemao, 470 00:30:12,727 --> 00:30:16,231 just made it so clear, like, I can put forth an effort 471 00:30:16,231 --> 00:30:20,193 to go bigger, to do better, push my limits more. 472 00:30:21,778 --> 00:30:22,737 Then, all of a sudden, 473 00:30:22,737 --> 00:30:24,739 there's a swell on the horizon. 474 00:30:24,739 --> 00:30:26,324 It was one of these big ones coming in. 475 00:30:26,324 --> 00:30:28,034 The winds are looking good. 476 00:30:28,034 --> 00:30:31,371 It was appearing to line up very nicely. 477 00:30:31,371 --> 00:30:33,998 It's like, oh, this swell is coming in, 478 00:30:33,998 --> 00:30:36,251 and you're due for your waves, and you're ready, 479 00:30:36,251 --> 00:30:37,961 you've been training. 480 00:30:37,961 --> 00:30:41,422 My plan is to surf 481 00:30:41,422 --> 00:30:43,925 the biggest wave I've ever ridden. 482 00:30:55,395 --> 00:30:58,314 {\an8}[speaking Portuguese] 483 00:31:05,863 --> 00:31:08,866 {\an8}[speaking Portuguese] 484 00:31:16,165 --> 00:31:17,792 That's why we have so many cameramans around. 485 00:31:17,792 --> 00:31:20,003 {\an8}Look at this. We got one, two, three, four, 486 00:31:20,003 --> 00:31:22,130 {\an8}five, six, seven. 487 00:31:22,130 --> 00:31:24,465 There's more filmers than surfers right now. 488 00:31:24,465 --> 00:31:27,427 - [laughs] - They film, and they showcase 489 00:31:27,427 --> 00:31:29,470 a day of action in the ocean. 490 00:31:32,557 --> 00:31:35,518 {\an8}[speaking French] 491 00:31:42,483 --> 00:31:45,361 We wanted to team up with Tony, 492 00:31:45,361 --> 00:31:48,615 but it was really big swell. 493 00:31:48,615 --> 00:31:51,451 We did not-- that much training together. 494 00:31:51,451 --> 00:31:54,579 So I went with the person I'm more confident with, 495 00:31:54,579 --> 00:31:57,123 and she went with the person that she's more confident. 496 00:31:57,123 --> 00:31:59,417 This swell is gonna be like 497 00:31:59,417 --> 00:32:02,670 the good old days, just me and my dad. 498 00:32:02,670 --> 00:32:06,841 {\an8}[speaking Portuguese] 499 00:32:06,841 --> 00:32:11,804 My goal for Gigantes was to leave this day with Fred. 500 00:32:11,804 --> 00:32:15,224 I said to him, like, "Please do it one more time. 501 00:32:15,224 --> 00:32:17,810 "One more time, we're going in the water together 502 00:32:17,810 --> 00:32:19,896 "to get one big wave. 503 00:32:19,896 --> 00:32:21,648 "Like, one crazy big one. 504 00:32:21,648 --> 00:32:24,734 And then I stop asking you." 505 00:32:24,734 --> 00:32:26,819 - Yeah? - She wants to surf with me. 506 00:32:26,819 --> 00:32:28,154 So I was like, "Okay." 507 00:32:28,154 --> 00:32:30,490 [exhales] "Okay, let's do it." 508 00:32:30,490 --> 00:32:33,785 It may be the last big session 509 00:32:33,785 --> 00:32:35,495 that we will share together. 510 00:32:35,495 --> 00:32:38,289 Let's stop after the session that we are proud of. 511 00:32:38,289 --> 00:32:41,167 ♪ ♪ 512 00:32:53,471 --> 00:32:55,556 - Happy New Year, bro. - Hey, mate. You all right? 513 00:32:55,556 --> 00:32:57,725 - Yeah, happy New Year. - How was it? 514 00:32:57,725 --> 00:33:00,103 - Ooh, I saw a really good set. - Yeah? 515 00:33:00,103 --> 00:33:01,270 Yeah. 516 00:33:02,980 --> 00:33:05,024 Right when it pulled up, 517 00:33:05,024 --> 00:33:06,818 perfect left and right. 518 00:33:06,818 --> 00:33:09,028 Good peak and then a second-- 519 00:33:09,028 --> 00:33:10,363 It's gonna get way bigger, though, isn't it? 520 00:33:10,363 --> 00:33:12,281 Oh, yeah. Gonna get huge. 521 00:33:13,116 --> 00:33:15,868 You know, I suppose I'd already had, like, a bad run. 522 00:33:15,868 --> 00:33:17,370 I was kinda paranoid about getting 523 00:33:17,370 --> 00:33:19,038 on the back of skis with people 524 00:33:19,038 --> 00:33:23,418 'cause, well, you know, they can end badly. 525 00:33:35,179 --> 00:33:39,600 {\an8}[laughs] [speaking French] 526 00:34:02,665 --> 00:34:05,710 [singing in Portuguese] 527 00:34:10,173 --> 00:34:15,553 I still didn't feel like I was in the club, in the surf club. 528 00:34:15,553 --> 00:34:17,180 You gotta do something sick 529 00:34:17,180 --> 00:34:19,015 in order to be in the club, right? 530 00:34:19,015 --> 00:34:21,142 [whooshes] All right. 531 00:34:21,142 --> 00:34:22,643 [dramatic orchestral music] 532 00:34:22,643 --> 00:34:24,645 It was probably the most excited 533 00:34:24,645 --> 00:34:28,191 I've ever seen CJ to surf. 534 00:34:28,191 --> 00:34:33,279 Whoo, whoo, whoo! 535 00:34:33,279 --> 00:34:35,948 Cotty and CJ were partners, 536 00:34:35,948 --> 00:34:40,328 and Garrett was driving them both. 537 00:34:40,328 --> 00:34:41,954 You know, to be honest, 538 00:34:41,954 --> 00:34:46,751 I wasn't feeling real confident in my driving. 539 00:34:47,794 --> 00:34:49,378 I was feeling human. I was feeling 540 00:34:49,378 --> 00:34:51,255 like maybe Alemao should be driving. 541 00:34:51,255 --> 00:34:53,966 He's been towing out there so much more than me. 542 00:34:53,966 --> 00:34:57,136 - Mic check. - Loud and clear. 543 00:34:57,136 --> 00:34:58,137 Garrett mentions to me, he's like, 544 00:34:58,137 --> 00:34:59,388 "You want Alemao to drive you?" 545 00:34:59,388 --> 00:35:02,517 And I'm thinking to myself, "Wow." 546 00:35:04,101 --> 00:35:05,061 {\an8}I'm bringing it, yeah. 547 00:35:05,061 --> 00:35:06,604 {\an8}- [laughs] - It's coming. Now it's time. 548 00:35:06,604 --> 00:35:08,439 - The blue eagle cams. - Oh, the blue. 549 00:35:08,439 --> 00:35:09,690 - Blue eagle, beautiful. - [laughs] 550 00:35:09,690 --> 00:35:12,485 Alemao has been out here driving on all the big days. 551 00:35:12,485 --> 00:35:14,570 He would put me on the wave. 552 00:35:14,570 --> 00:35:17,782 But, no, Garrett's supposed to put me on this wave. 553 00:35:17,782 --> 00:35:19,617 He was feeling a little unsure in that moment. 554 00:35:19,617 --> 00:35:21,285 I said, "No, you got this." 555 00:35:21,285 --> 00:35:22,578 Let's go. 556 00:35:23,579 --> 00:35:26,165 Yoo! That was exciting. 557 00:35:26,165 --> 00:35:27,708 Whoo-hoo! 558 00:35:29,460 --> 00:35:30,753 {\an8}[speaking Portuguese] 559 00:35:32,505 --> 00:35:36,134 Whoo! 560 00:35:37,468 --> 00:35:40,429 Oh, my God! 561 00:35:54,652 --> 00:35:56,863 {\an8}Hey, guys, we're here today. 562 00:35:56,863 --> 00:35:59,031 {\an8}It's absolutely firing. 563 00:35:59,031 --> 00:36:01,784 {\an8}Pretty huge. I'm not gonna say biggest ever, 564 00:36:01,784 --> 00:36:03,452 {\an8}but it's really big out there. 565 00:36:08,416 --> 00:36:11,460 [cheers and applause] 566 00:36:11,460 --> 00:36:13,629 The whole cliff is full of people. 567 00:36:13,629 --> 00:36:16,549 It's a circus, right. 568 00:36:16,549 --> 00:36:18,134 After Fe was born, 569 00:36:18,134 --> 00:36:20,761 everything was quasi- back to normal. 570 00:36:20,761 --> 00:36:22,555 And I was adamant I was gonna go do safety. 571 00:36:22,555 --> 00:36:24,432 - [laughs] - Aww. 572 00:36:24,432 --> 00:36:27,435 So I had to see if she's all snuggled. 573 00:36:27,435 --> 00:36:28,936 - That's so sweet. - Garrett, 574 00:36:28,936 --> 00:36:30,938 what's your position? 575 00:36:30,938 --> 00:36:33,900 We're in between first and second. 576 00:36:33,900 --> 00:36:35,568 Got you. 577 00:36:35,568 --> 00:36:37,904 [dramatic music] 578 00:36:37,904 --> 00:36:38,988 We're looking, and it's, like, 579 00:36:38,988 --> 00:36:41,073 kinda bumpy and really big. 580 00:36:42,825 --> 00:36:44,869 I'm watching Lucas Chumbo out there, 581 00:36:44,869 --> 00:36:48,789 and they're putting him way outside on these big bobs. 582 00:36:49,665 --> 00:36:52,627 {\an8}[speaking Portuguese] 583 00:37:02,511 --> 00:37:05,640 And Justine, like, everyone getting waves, you know. 584 00:37:06,724 --> 00:37:09,644 {\an8}[speaking Portuguese] 585 00:37:30,831 --> 00:37:32,208 When offered the opportunity, 586 00:37:32,208 --> 00:37:33,459 Cotty doesn't wanna surf, 587 00:37:33,459 --> 00:37:35,586 Alemao doesn't wanna surf, Garrett doesn't wanna surf. 588 00:37:35,586 --> 00:37:37,004 And I'm, like, thinking. 589 00:37:37,004 --> 00:37:38,130 I'm like, "I'm thinking of going for it." 590 00:37:41,759 --> 00:37:44,011 {\an8}[laughs] 591 00:37:44,011 --> 00:37:45,471 He says, "Give me the rope." 592 00:37:55,439 --> 00:37:58,192 Outside, there's a humongous wave. 593 00:37:58,192 --> 00:37:59,860 Outside. 594 00:38:01,737 --> 00:38:03,906 Oh, it's big. 595 00:38:03,906 --> 00:38:06,742 I might not be able to watch. 596 00:38:06,742 --> 00:38:08,786 The way I feel about my brother surfing 597 00:38:08,786 --> 00:38:11,831 is probably how everybody expects me to feel 598 00:38:11,831 --> 00:38:14,166 about my husband surfing. 599 00:38:14,166 --> 00:38:18,254 But with CJ, it almost makes me sick. 600 00:38:18,254 --> 00:38:19,922 Oh, my God. Is that them? 601 00:38:19,922 --> 00:38:22,383 - Yep. - That's them? 602 00:38:22,383 --> 00:38:23,884 That's CJ. 603 00:38:25,553 --> 00:38:26,721 I knew the one I wanted. 604 00:38:26,721 --> 00:38:28,723 I wanted the big left on the first peak. 605 00:38:31,642 --> 00:38:34,562 {\an8}[speaking Portuguese] 606 00:38:42,945 --> 00:38:44,363 He was super focused, 607 00:38:44,363 --> 00:38:47,324 went out there with a goal, achieved the goal, 608 00:38:47,324 --> 00:38:51,203 and he was surfing really good. 609 00:38:51,203 --> 00:38:53,873 Finally, he showed that he's got something going on. 610 00:38:53,873 --> 00:38:55,082 He can do it. 611 00:38:55,082 --> 00:38:57,418 - CJ manned up. - Yeah. 612 00:38:57,418 --> 00:38:59,587 That was pretty cool. 613 00:39:00,337 --> 00:39:05,885 I am super proud of how CJ surfed that January swell. 614 00:39:07,803 --> 00:39:09,847 It definitely opened people's eyes 615 00:39:09,847 --> 00:39:11,766 to him not just being there 616 00:39:11,766 --> 00:39:13,934 just because he's Garrett's brother-in-law. 617 00:39:13,934 --> 00:39:15,936 Like, he actually has talent. 618 00:39:15,936 --> 00:39:17,313 I've been shooting him for three years, 619 00:39:17,313 --> 00:39:19,523 and I was really impressed. 620 00:39:19,523 --> 00:39:21,442 He gained a lot, a lot of respect from everybody. 621 00:39:24,278 --> 00:39:27,281 {\an8}[laughs] Yoo! 622 00:39:27,281 --> 00:39:31,911 The inkling was starting that I had, like, 623 00:39:31,911 --> 00:39:34,955 earned my keep a little bit, but it wasn't complete. 624 00:39:36,332 --> 00:39:39,376 So it's like, how far can I push myself? 625 00:39:48,094 --> 00:39:49,637 Dude, I haven't surfed enough, man. 626 00:39:49,637 --> 00:39:50,805 - Nothing? - I haven't surfed 627 00:39:50,805 --> 00:39:52,306 the wave of my life, 628 00:39:52,306 --> 00:39:56,143 and it's about time I surf the wave of my life. 629 00:39:56,143 --> 00:39:58,646 It was a full-on day, you know, from morning till dark. 630 00:39:58,646 --> 00:40:00,106 People pushing the limits, 631 00:40:00,106 --> 00:40:01,440 people riding some of the biggest waves 632 00:40:01,440 --> 00:40:03,067 they've ever ridden. 633 00:40:03,067 --> 00:40:06,070 [thrilling music] 634 00:40:06,070 --> 00:40:09,949 ♪ ♪ 635 00:40:09,949 --> 00:40:12,952 {\an8}[speaking Portuguese] 636 00:40:15,663 --> 00:40:18,290 My goal for that day wasn't even, like, 637 00:40:18,290 --> 00:40:20,126 to catch the biggest one. 638 00:40:20,126 --> 00:40:23,212 It was to, do, like, some really good lines. 639 00:40:23,212 --> 00:40:27,508 Try to risk more, not good all the time, like, straight. 640 00:40:52,408 --> 00:40:55,327 {\an8}[speaking Portuguese] 641 00:40:58,080 --> 00:40:59,540 I knew it was a nasty wipeout 642 00:40:59,540 --> 00:41:01,000 when I saw my father's face. 643 00:41:01,000 --> 00:41:03,586 Like, the eyes were really open, 644 00:41:03,586 --> 00:41:06,046 and he knew there was a big one behind me. 645 00:41:21,896 --> 00:41:24,815 {\an8}[speaking Portuguese] 646 00:41:28,277 --> 00:41:31,780 Chumbo saw me, he picked me up. 647 00:41:31,780 --> 00:41:34,241 [cheers and applause] 648 00:41:34,241 --> 00:41:36,368 I told him, like, "Leave me in the sand. 649 00:41:36,368 --> 00:41:38,704 I need to go pick up my board." 650 00:41:45,753 --> 00:41:48,214 {\an8}[speaking Portuguese] 651 00:41:48,214 --> 00:41:51,008 {\an8}[whistling] 652 00:41:55,763 --> 00:41:58,140 I always loved to get pounded, you know, 653 00:41:58,140 --> 00:42:00,809 the rush and the feeling of adrenaline. 654 00:42:00,809 --> 00:42:04,772 After that wipeout, for a long time, 655 00:42:04,772 --> 00:42:07,024 I got, like, what I mean-- 656 00:42:07,024 --> 00:42:09,527 it's not that funny to get pounded anymore, you know? 657 00:42:09,527 --> 00:42:12,529 [dramatic tone] 658 00:42:12,529 --> 00:42:15,574 ♪ ♪ 659 00:42:15,574 --> 00:42:18,452 [crowd cheering] 660 00:42:25,125 --> 00:42:27,461 It was the day of carnage. 661 00:42:27,461 --> 00:42:29,797 Mama Nazaré won that day. 662 00:42:32,216 --> 00:42:35,177 {\an8}[speaking Portuguese] 663 00:42:42,768 --> 00:42:44,103 {\an8}Whoa. 664 00:42:46,897 --> 00:42:48,065 {\an8}At least. 665 00:42:51,193 --> 00:42:54,154 It was a good session. We were happy about it. 666 00:42:54,154 --> 00:42:57,616 Now we can be proud, and it can be the end of the session. 667 00:42:57,616 --> 00:42:59,618 And then Lucas came on the lineup, and he's like, 668 00:42:59,618 --> 00:43:02,454 "Oh, Justine, let's catch a few waves together." 669 00:43:02,454 --> 00:43:05,499 {\an8}[speaking Portuguese] 670 00:43:06,500 --> 00:43:07,668 And in my mind, I was like, 671 00:43:07,668 --> 00:43:09,336 we survived for four hours alone. 672 00:43:09,336 --> 00:43:12,339 And now, Lucas is the best driver in Nazaré. 673 00:43:12,339 --> 00:43:13,716 Go with him. Like, I do safety, 674 00:43:13,716 --> 00:43:15,718 Lucas tow you, and we--we're good. 675 00:43:15,718 --> 00:43:19,013 Amazing, like, the perfect combination for me. 676 00:43:19,013 --> 00:43:26,061 ♪ ♪ 677 00:43:28,230 --> 00:43:29,648 [crowd cheering] 678 00:43:29,648 --> 00:43:32,693 {\an8}[speaking Portuguese] 679 00:43:36,280 --> 00:43:39,325 And I saw Justine going down on that huge wave. 680 00:43:39,325 --> 00:43:40,951 I was right at the bottom of it, 681 00:43:40,951 --> 00:43:42,870 and it was horrific. 682 00:43:42,870 --> 00:43:47,082 ♪ ♪ 683 00:43:47,082 --> 00:43:49,668 She fell in the apex of the wave, 684 00:43:49,668 --> 00:43:51,962 and thing just obliterated her. 685 00:44:00,429 --> 00:44:02,431 {\an8}[radio chatter] 686 00:44:04,850 --> 00:44:05,893 I think she got really pounded, 687 00:44:05,893 --> 00:44:07,936 and they're really close to the rocks. 688 00:44:09,646 --> 00:44:11,857 That's the worst situation she's ever had. 689 00:44:11,857 --> 00:44:14,860 So, I look, and I know there is Lucas with me. 690 00:44:14,860 --> 00:44:16,820 She popped up far from us. 691 00:44:16,820 --> 00:44:19,698 She's popped up, like, way closer to the cliff 692 00:44:19,698 --> 00:44:22,368 than what I was expecting. 693 00:44:22,368 --> 00:44:24,453 And I see a little window where I'm like, "Okay, 694 00:44:24,453 --> 00:44:26,538 I can go. I can rush to her and get her." 695 00:44:26,538 --> 00:44:29,583 {\an8}[speaking Portuguese] 696 00:44:32,169 --> 00:44:33,212 Lucas is screaming at me, 697 00:44:33,212 --> 00:44:35,255 "Don't go! Don't go! Don't go! Wait, wait! Don't go!" 698 00:44:35,255 --> 00:44:36,465 I'm like, "Fuck you, I'll go." 699 00:44:36,465 --> 00:44:40,511 ♪ ♪ 700 00:44:50,145 --> 00:44:52,106 The next wave is super close. 701 00:44:52,106 --> 00:44:54,983 I look behind, and she come drag the sled 702 00:44:54,983 --> 00:44:57,903 and I'm already in the face of the wave. 703 00:44:57,903 --> 00:45:04,743 ♪ ♪ 704 00:45:04,743 --> 00:45:07,121 And as soon as I miss her, I'm like, okay, 705 00:45:07,121 --> 00:45:09,081 if I fucked up, I'm dead. 706 00:45:09,081 --> 00:45:12,084 And she's dead. 707 00:45:12,084 --> 00:45:15,838 It was such a crazy decision for him 708 00:45:15,838 --> 00:45:18,215 because if he wouldn't have done it, 709 00:45:18,215 --> 00:45:22,302 it was, like, 100% sure that we will crash. 710 00:45:22,302 --> 00:45:28,308 So it would have been two person in danger. 711 00:45:28,308 --> 00:45:30,018 When I was on the wave, I was like, "Okay, 712 00:45:30,018 --> 00:45:31,979 "I need to survive, because otherwise, 713 00:45:31,979 --> 00:45:35,232 Fred will think about that for his entire life." 714 00:45:35,232 --> 00:45:37,234 He'll, like--he will have too much regret. 715 00:45:37,234 --> 00:45:39,695 So, I was like, "Okay, hold onto life. 716 00:45:39,695 --> 00:45:40,946 It's gonna be okay." 717 00:45:43,574 --> 00:45:45,659 I keep hearing on the radio, "Okay, 718 00:45:45,659 --> 00:45:47,453 "she's getting closer to a cliff. 719 00:45:47,453 --> 00:45:48,704 She's getting closer to the cliff." 720 00:45:48,704 --> 00:45:50,956 {\an8}[speaking Portuguese] 721 00:45:52,708 --> 00:45:55,002 Chumbo was, like, going over the falls 722 00:45:55,002 --> 00:45:57,045 with the ski after her. 723 00:45:57,045 --> 00:46:00,507 ♪ ♪ 724 00:46:00,507 --> 00:46:01,550 And then you see at that point, 725 00:46:01,550 --> 00:46:03,802 she's, like, three meters from the cliff. 726 00:46:03,802 --> 00:46:08,182 ♪ ♪ 727 00:46:08,182 --> 00:46:10,934 I see all the people on the cliff, like, screaming, 728 00:46:10,934 --> 00:46:15,063 and making signs. [people shouting] 729 00:46:15,063 --> 00:46:18,650 I just turn, and I hear Lucas was there with the ski. 730 00:46:18,650 --> 00:46:20,319 I was, "No way! Come on! 731 00:46:20,319 --> 00:46:22,154 Please, wait, wait for me, wait for me!" 732 00:46:25,699 --> 00:46:28,827 [cheers and applause] 733 00:46:35,876 --> 00:46:42,883 ♪ ♪ 734 00:46:48,847 --> 00:46:51,266 {\an8}[speaking French] 735 00:46:51,266 --> 00:46:52,559 {\an8}I was questioning myself, 736 00:46:52,559 --> 00:46:55,562 like, why are you putting your body 737 00:46:55,562 --> 00:46:56,939 into this situation? 738 00:46:56,939 --> 00:47:02,861 And, next will be like this or, like, 739 00:47:02,861 --> 00:47:05,072 what's the purpose of that? 740 00:47:05,072 --> 00:47:08,158 {\an8}[speaking French] 741 00:47:12,162 --> 00:47:18,418 ♪ ♪ 742 00:47:18,418 --> 00:47:21,255 A lot of huge waves came in that day. 743 00:47:21,255 --> 00:47:22,798 It was humongous. 744 00:47:24,341 --> 00:47:26,260 I swear, it was 100-foot-plus. 745 00:47:29,513 --> 00:47:32,808 Garrett was just, like, super proud of CJ 746 00:47:32,808 --> 00:47:35,644 and super excited and, for the first time, 747 00:47:35,644 --> 00:47:37,938 I think, felt that CJ really wanted it. 748 00:47:37,938 --> 00:47:41,108 So, Garrett was really excited to get him 749 00:47:41,108 --> 00:47:42,693 the wave that he wanted. 750 00:47:47,531 --> 00:47:49,157 CJ was hungry. 751 00:47:49,157 --> 00:47:52,869 He was looking for the biggest wave of the day. 752 00:47:52,869 --> 00:47:54,580 I'm feeling nerves 753 00:47:54,580 --> 00:47:56,582 and the immensity of the situation 754 00:47:56,582 --> 00:47:58,542 and just how much it means for my whole life. 755 00:47:58,542 --> 00:48:01,003 Like, I'm trying to get the ride of a lifetime. 756 00:48:03,005 --> 00:48:05,465 This wave just pops up, and I go, "You want it?" 757 00:48:05,465 --> 00:48:07,217 And he goes, "Yeah." 758 00:48:07,217 --> 00:48:10,012 And I think they both kinda had it in their mind 759 00:48:10,012 --> 00:48:13,015 that this might be the 100-foot wave. 760 00:48:13,015 --> 00:48:14,474 I'm like, "Yeah, okay." 761 00:48:14,474 --> 00:48:16,435 I feel really confident right now to go for this, 762 00:48:16,435 --> 00:48:17,728 and that's cool. 763 00:48:18,854 --> 00:48:20,147 Here he goes. 764 00:48:20,147 --> 00:48:21,607 Oh! 765 00:48:21,607 --> 00:48:28,655 ♪ ♪ 766 00:48:39,541 --> 00:48:42,169 Ah! Ahh! 767 00:48:51,595 --> 00:48:53,430 {\an8}Keep an eye out. [radio chatter] 768 00:48:53,430 --> 00:48:57,726 Where is your uncle? Keep an eye out. 769 00:48:57,726 --> 00:48:59,311 - Where are they? - Shit. 770 00:49:04,358 --> 00:49:07,152 [radio chatter] 771 00:49:07,152 --> 00:49:09,821 Alemao went in to look for him, 772 00:49:09,821 --> 00:49:11,698 couldn't see him. 773 00:49:11,698 --> 00:49:18,747 ♪ ♪ 774 00:49:23,919 --> 00:49:26,797 I'm running inside like crazy. 775 00:49:26,797 --> 00:49:29,633 Near the rocks--he's not really near the rocks. 776 00:49:30,967 --> 00:49:34,638 Where is he? 777 00:49:34,638 --> 00:49:38,016 I don't have eyes on CJ. Does anybody have him? 778 00:49:40,644 --> 00:49:42,854 Where the hell is he? 779 00:49:47,609 --> 00:49:51,363 I could hear Nicole sounding more and more panicked. 780 00:49:51,363 --> 00:49:54,449 Did he have any floatation other than his vest? 781 00:49:54,449 --> 00:49:56,201 And I was thinking, like, 782 00:49:56,201 --> 00:49:58,203 he got hit that hard, but maybe unconscious 783 00:49:58,203 --> 00:49:59,913 and pulled his vest, and you know-- 784 00:49:59,913 --> 00:50:01,873 You just--you know-- you just don't even wanna 785 00:50:01,873 --> 00:50:03,500 think about it, you know, like-- 786 00:50:03,500 --> 00:50:05,669 Garrett, I don't see him anywhere. 787 00:50:07,212 --> 00:50:08,630 What the fuck? 788 00:50:13,969 --> 00:50:15,971 He's not floating. He's on all that floatation. 789 00:50:15,971 --> 00:50:17,597 He should be floating. So I was, "Oh, God, 790 00:50:17,597 --> 00:50:18,932 did his wet suit get ripped off?" 791 00:50:18,932 --> 00:50:20,142 That would be-- 792 00:50:30,360 --> 00:50:33,613 What if we don't find him? Like... 793 00:50:33,613 --> 00:50:36,283 how do you find somebody who's lost at sea? 794 00:50:36,283 --> 00:50:40,454 Oh, my God. Garrett! I don't see him anywhere! 795 00:50:40,454 --> 00:50:42,873 I was watching the whole time. He popped up 796 00:50:42,873 --> 00:50:44,249 after the first wave. 797 00:50:44,249 --> 00:50:46,877 The second wave came, and I never saw him come up 798 00:50:46,877 --> 00:50:48,754 after the second wave. 799 00:50:51,631 --> 00:50:54,468 {\an8}He's-- We just have to keep looking. 800 00:50:56,052 --> 00:50:57,637 Oh, fuck. 801 00:50:57,637 --> 00:51:00,682 ♪ ♪ 802 00:51:00,682 --> 00:51:03,769 [radio chatter] 803 00:51:15,071 --> 00:51:22,037 ♪ ♪ 804 00:52:01,618 --> 00:52:03,161 [bright tone] 60006

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