Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated:
1
00:00:01,835 --> 00:00:03,253
[TV static drones]
2
00:00:03,253 --> 00:00:05,714
[bright tone]
3
00:00:07,173 --> 00:00:09,509
[bell dings]
4
00:00:15,306 --> 00:00:17,684
[ding]
5
00:00:22,647 --> 00:00:24,899
[ding]
6
00:00:24,899 --> 00:00:28,570
The mindfulness bell
just went off on my phone.
7
00:00:28,570 --> 00:00:32,449
So the bell invites us
to take a mindful breath.
8
00:00:32,449 --> 00:00:35,577
And one of Thích Nhat Hanh's
sutras that he says
9
00:00:35,577 --> 00:00:41,875
is, "Breathing in,
I relax my mind and my body.
10
00:00:41,875 --> 00:00:44,836
"Breathing out, I smile.
11
00:00:44,836 --> 00:00:48,298
I know this is
a wonderful moment."
12
00:00:50,049 --> 00:00:52,135
The boys are waiting. They're
probably gonna yell at me.
13
00:00:52,135 --> 00:00:54,137
[jaunty music]
14
00:00:54,137 --> 00:00:56,848
Is CJ like all the other
big-wave surfers at Nazaré,
15
00:00:56,848 --> 00:01:00,560
or does he kind of, like,
forge a different path?
16
00:01:00,560 --> 00:01:03,813
Well, CJ is isn't really
a big-wave surfer.
17
00:01:03,813 --> 00:01:06,274
♪ ♪
18
00:01:06,274 --> 00:01:08,651
He's definitely been
a surfer his whole life,
19
00:01:08,651 --> 00:01:10,570
and he used to enter contests
back in the day,
20
00:01:10,570 --> 00:01:12,197
but it was, like,
21
00:01:12,197 --> 00:01:15,867
two-foot Florida.
That's what they grew up on.
22
00:01:15,867 --> 00:01:18,453
Whenever CJ wants
to be out in the water,
23
00:01:18,453 --> 00:01:20,622
he's phenomenal.
Like, he--
24
00:01:20,622 --> 00:01:25,168
he is one
of those truly soul surfers.
25
00:01:25,168 --> 00:01:26,544
I mean, I brought him
to Hawaii,
26
00:01:26,544 --> 00:01:28,713
and he went to Pipeline
and got the wave
27
00:01:28,713 --> 00:01:31,174
that pipeline surfers
dream of getting.
28
00:01:31,174 --> 00:01:33,676
He got it
his first session out
29
00:01:33,676 --> 00:01:34,969
but never went back.
30
00:01:36,763 --> 00:01:39,682
He wants to have
this clear vision
31
00:01:39,682 --> 00:01:40,725
and these clear goals,
32
00:01:40,725 --> 00:01:45,855
but he gets so caught up
overthinking everything.
33
00:01:45,855 --> 00:01:52,320
♪ ♪
34
00:01:52,320 --> 00:01:55,698
I've seen two sides to CJ,
and they're like,
35
00:01:55,698 --> 00:01:56,866
take it or leave it,
you know.
36
00:01:56,866 --> 00:01:58,868
Like, not that bothered,
and then, like, beast mode.
37
00:02:01,037 --> 00:02:02,705
I really don't know
what's his goal--
38
00:02:02,705 --> 00:02:04,499
if he wants to ride
the biggest waves,
39
00:02:04,499 --> 00:02:06,751
if he's being dragged
by Garrett,
40
00:02:06,751 --> 00:02:08,920
if he wants to do yoga
on a surfboard...
41
00:02:08,920 --> 00:02:12,048
♪ ♪
42
00:02:12,048 --> 00:02:13,383
He doesn't need
to prove anything.
43
00:02:13,383 --> 00:02:15,885
He's surfed waves,
he's driven Garrett,
44
00:02:15,885 --> 00:02:17,595
done safety, done everything.
45
00:02:17,595 --> 00:02:20,223
♪ ♪
46
00:02:20,223 --> 00:02:23,810
Do you feel like CJ
has something to prove?
47
00:02:23,810 --> 00:02:26,813
I think people have
no idea of who CJ is
48
00:02:26,813 --> 00:02:28,898
or what he's capable of.
49
00:02:28,898 --> 00:02:35,947
♪ ♪
50
00:02:45,123 --> 00:02:48,126
[dramatic music]
51
00:02:48,126 --> 00:02:54,215
♪ ♪
52
00:03:10,982 --> 00:03:15,236
When Tony didn't compete
for the WSL events,
53
00:03:15,236 --> 00:03:20,742
I was, for sure, upset
and disappointed for him.
54
00:03:20,742 --> 00:03:24,120
I could tell his frustration.
55
00:03:24,120 --> 00:03:25,580
[doorbell dings]
56
00:03:25,580 --> 00:03:27,123
Oh, yeah, yeah.
57
00:03:31,294 --> 00:03:35,006
[all greeting in French]
58
00:03:45,516 --> 00:03:49,646
{\an8}- We saw one swell going
to Madeira,
59
00:03:49,646 --> 00:03:51,898
{\an8}and we have some contacts,
and they were like,
60
00:03:51,898 --> 00:03:53,441
{\an8}"Hey, you guys should come.
61
00:03:53,441 --> 00:03:58,029
{\an8}It's gonna be a great, great
day for training, for surfing."
62
00:03:58,029 --> 00:04:01,950
When Justine and Fred asked
me if I want to go with them,
63
00:04:01,950 --> 00:04:03,576
I just got really happy.
64
00:04:03,576 --> 00:04:06,579
Up.
Away, Papa. [laughs]
65
00:04:06,579 --> 00:04:07,997
- Bye.
- Obrigado.
66
00:04:07,997 --> 00:04:09,207
{\an8}Bye, Papa.
67
00:04:09,207 --> 00:04:12,543
{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]
68
00:04:17,757 --> 00:04:21,010
[Canned Heat's
"Going Up The Country"]
69
00:04:21,010 --> 00:04:25,890
The trip helped me to forget
everything about the contest.
70
00:04:25,890 --> 00:04:28,893
Okay, the family
is going to holidays!
71
00:04:28,893 --> 00:04:30,895
♪ I'm going up the country ♪
72
00:04:30,895 --> 00:04:34,774
♪ Baby, don't you wanna go? ♪
73
00:04:34,774 --> 00:04:36,275
{\an8}♪ I'm going up the country ♪
74
00:04:39,737 --> 00:04:41,072
{\an8}Big wave. Yeah, yeah.
75
00:04:41,072 --> 00:04:44,409
It's gonna be the first one
of a lot of trips.
76
00:04:44,409 --> 00:04:45,702
- Yeah?
- Yeah.
77
00:04:45,702 --> 00:04:46,786
♪ ♪
78
00:04:46,786 --> 00:04:48,204
♪ I'm going, I'm going ♪
79
00:04:48,204 --> 00:04:52,500
♪ Where the water
tastes like wine ♪
80
00:04:52,500 --> 00:04:56,587
♪ I'm going where the water
tastes like wine ♪
81
00:04:56,587 --> 00:04:58,089
- Go see.
- Oh!
82
00:04:58,089 --> 00:05:00,383
- Oh.
- Oh.
83
00:05:00,383 --> 00:05:04,137
Oh la la.
Oh la la!
84
00:05:05,847 --> 00:05:07,265
[laughs]
85
00:05:07,265 --> 00:05:10,351
Go see. No way.
86
00:05:11,644 --> 00:05:13,021
I'm in love with this.
87
00:05:13,980 --> 00:05:16,941
{\an8}[speaking French]
88
00:05:18,484 --> 00:05:20,153
{\an8}[both laugh]
89
00:05:35,793 --> 00:05:41,799
♪ ♪
90
00:05:49,891 --> 00:05:54,437
This is what I want to do
for the rest of my life.
91
00:05:54,437 --> 00:05:57,231
To not stay always in Nazaré.
92
00:05:57,231 --> 00:05:59,233
It's already the beginning
of the dream.
93
00:05:59,233 --> 00:06:01,527
Like, start traveling
to surf big waves.
94
00:06:01,527 --> 00:06:07,033
♪ ♪
95
00:06:07,033 --> 00:06:09,994
During that contest,
it made me realize
96
00:06:09,994 --> 00:06:14,248
how the good partner
is so important for me.
97
00:06:14,248 --> 00:06:17,794
Like, how do you
like each other?
98
00:06:17,794 --> 00:06:21,464
How do you commit?
How do you do this together?
99
00:06:21,464 --> 00:06:23,883
Tony was used to surf
with his dad.
100
00:06:23,883 --> 00:06:26,302
I was used to surf
with my boyfriend.
101
00:06:26,302 --> 00:06:29,138
So, it was good to
spend time with him
102
00:06:29,138 --> 00:06:33,976
and make me remember the
beginning of my career, too.
103
00:06:33,976 --> 00:06:36,312
It's the best, the beginning
when you know nothing.
104
00:06:36,312 --> 00:06:38,106
Things full of a none.
105
00:06:38,106 --> 00:06:39,690
See you.
106
00:06:41,109 --> 00:06:42,568
[laughter]
107
00:06:44,445 --> 00:06:46,072
Surfing with her,
it's almost the same
108
00:06:46,072 --> 00:06:47,406
as surfing with my father,
you know.
109
00:06:47,406 --> 00:06:50,535
I don't feel pressure.
I don't feel that I'm working.
110
00:07:03,339 --> 00:07:05,550
- And now.
- [laughs]
111
00:07:05,550 --> 00:07:07,677
While I'm with them,
all the time,
112
00:07:07,677 --> 00:07:10,346
- joke, messing around.
- Good first trip.
113
00:07:10,346 --> 00:07:11,514
First big wave big boy.
114
00:07:11,514 --> 00:07:13,057
I feel really
comfortable with them.
115
00:07:13,057 --> 00:07:15,518
Like family.
116
00:07:15,518 --> 00:07:17,854
He had a good
and positive effect on me.
117
00:07:17,854 --> 00:07:21,482
He was, like, good vibes,
really good vibes.
118
00:07:21,482 --> 00:07:26,028
Yeah, it was really like
a beginning of a story for us.
119
00:07:26,028 --> 00:07:29,031
Yeah, I'm exciting
for the future with him.
120
00:07:41,961 --> 00:07:43,087
[dog barking]
121
00:07:45,006 --> 00:07:47,216
Hey.
122
00:07:47,216 --> 00:07:51,512
After the baby was born,
I just have turned into
123
00:07:51,512 --> 00:07:53,264
a voyeur for a while.
124
00:07:53,264 --> 00:07:57,059
♪ ♪
125
00:07:57,059 --> 00:07:59,896
Look at the four surfers out.
126
00:07:59,896 --> 00:08:02,523
I got no desire to surf.
127
00:08:02,523 --> 00:08:04,859
Nowadays, I can watch guys
get waves,
128
00:08:04,859 --> 00:08:06,402
and I'm totally content.
129
00:08:06,402 --> 00:08:09,197
I don't have FOMO anymore.
130
00:08:09,197 --> 00:08:11,365
No, no, no!
131
00:08:11,365 --> 00:08:12,742
You're gonna go
timeout again.
132
00:08:12,742 --> 00:08:14,076
You're not supposed
to be screaming.
133
00:08:14,076 --> 00:08:16,787
After Fe was born,
it's just--
134
00:08:16,787 --> 00:08:18,497
life is completely different.
135
00:08:18,497 --> 00:08:23,920
So, let's say all the sounds
in the word "at."
136
00:08:23,920 --> 00:08:25,755
- At.
- T--
137
00:08:25,755 --> 00:08:27,757
You know, Garrett
really settled in
138
00:08:27,757 --> 00:08:30,301
and enjoyed being here
with the family.
139
00:08:30,301 --> 00:08:31,636
Did you know that
Dad likes reading?
140
00:08:31,636 --> 00:08:33,429
I love reading.
141
00:08:33,429 --> 00:08:34,722
I do.
142
00:08:34,722 --> 00:08:36,599
You know,
his priority's changing,
143
00:08:36,599 --> 00:08:38,476
and, you know,
he seems really happy.
144
00:08:38,476 --> 00:08:40,019
Oh.
145
00:08:43,648 --> 00:08:44,690
{\an8}[laughs]
146
00:08:44,690 --> 00:08:47,235
But now figuring out
good partners,
147
00:08:47,235 --> 00:08:49,070
good safety,
good communication--
148
00:08:49,070 --> 00:08:51,530
you know, like,
it's definitely harder.
149
00:08:53,866 --> 00:08:56,369
{\an8}What up? Did you see
the waves before dark?
150
00:08:58,162 --> 00:08:59,747
{\an8}Good--yeah,
it's just smaller,
151
00:08:59,747 --> 00:09:03,668
{\an8}but tomorrow morning could be
potentially pretty big, so...
152
00:09:03,668 --> 00:09:07,129
The last contest,
153
00:09:07,129 --> 00:09:10,132
it was just such a shitshow.
154
00:09:10,132 --> 00:09:13,177
You know, it was
a perfect royal go left
155
00:09:13,177 --> 00:09:14,929
and then I'd ended up, like,
not going anywhere,
156
00:09:14,929 --> 00:09:17,515
just going straight
and getting pounded so hard.
157
00:09:17,515 --> 00:09:19,100
[wave pounds]
158
00:09:19,100 --> 00:09:21,644
I just, like--felt like just
driving over my surf board.
159
00:09:21,644 --> 00:09:23,771
And then, like,
I just wanted to just, like--
160
00:09:23,771 --> 00:09:25,106
"Wow, I don't wanna see
these things ever again.
161
00:09:25,106 --> 00:09:26,232
I hate 'em."
162
00:09:26,232 --> 00:09:28,067
Check out Andrew Cotton, here.
163
00:09:28,067 --> 00:09:31,153
And he'll get
absolutely blown up.
164
00:09:31,153 --> 00:09:35,074
I don't wanna be remembered
for--for wiping out.
165
00:09:35,074 --> 00:09:38,369
The goal is to ride, you know,
the tallest wave.
166
00:09:38,369 --> 00:09:40,454
You achieve that
by being in every swell,
167
00:09:40,454 --> 00:09:43,624
being healthy, and just
choosing your moments.
168
00:09:43,624 --> 00:09:45,543
All right,
is CJ gonna come out?
169
00:09:47,753 --> 00:09:48,671
{\an8}All right.
170
00:09:48,671 --> 00:09:49,672
[Pedro Paulo's "Nazaré"]
171
00:09:49,672 --> 00:09:52,008
[lighter flicking]
172
00:09:52,008 --> 00:09:55,303
♪ ♪
173
00:09:55,303 --> 00:09:58,347
[singing in Portuguese]
174
00:09:58,347 --> 00:10:00,016
[singing along]
175
00:10:00,016 --> 00:10:02,685
This season,
the calling was clear
176
00:10:02,685 --> 00:10:04,020
that I'm supposed to be here.
177
00:10:04,020 --> 00:10:05,646
♪ Nazaré ♪
178
00:10:05,646 --> 00:10:09,358
See where I kinda can fit in
and how I'm feeling.
179
00:10:09,358 --> 00:10:14,488
I haven't really towed into
big waves in a while.
180
00:10:14,488 --> 00:10:15,823
After that trip to Jaws
181
00:10:15,823 --> 00:10:18,034
{\an8}and the experience
that I had there,
182
00:10:18,034 --> 00:10:22,204
{\an8}feeling myself out with all
these legendary masters
183
00:10:22,204 --> 00:10:24,206
{\an8}of Jaws and tow surfing.
184
00:10:24,206 --> 00:10:27,918
It really, like,
stoked the fire.
185
00:10:27,918 --> 00:10:29,712
But yeah,
being out there with Garrett
186
00:10:29,712 --> 00:10:33,382
reflects a lot of insecurities,
maybe, about worthiness
187
00:10:33,382 --> 00:10:35,217
to be on the wave
'cause, well, yeah,
188
00:10:35,217 --> 00:10:38,179
he's my brother-in-law; he has
to bring me out, you know.
189
00:10:38,179 --> 00:10:40,306
I got a message from Garrett.
190
00:10:47,897 --> 00:10:51,317
"As much
as humanly possible."
191
00:10:51,317 --> 00:10:53,110
That's, like,
his favorite line.
192
00:10:53,110 --> 00:10:57,406
Okay, so I'm gonna bring my wet
wetsuits over to Perfect Waves.
193
00:10:57,406 --> 00:10:59,283
I'll meet you there,
and I'll change when we go.
194
00:10:59,283 --> 00:11:00,534
Yeah. Tchau, tchau.
195
00:11:00,534 --> 00:11:01,827
See you, buddy.
196
00:11:03,412 --> 00:11:06,207
{\an8}- Alemao--the master,
the captain.
197
00:11:06,207 --> 00:11:07,208
You know,
when he goes out there,
198
00:11:07,208 --> 00:11:09,752
I think he really sees himself
as the master,
199
00:11:09,752 --> 00:11:14,298
the uncle of the lineup.
200
00:11:14,298 --> 00:11:15,424
Yeah!
201
00:11:15,424 --> 00:11:18,094
Alemao is one of
the best drivers, full stop.
202
00:11:18,094 --> 00:11:21,847
Best tow driver,
best rescue guy.
203
00:11:22,515 --> 00:11:25,935
No doubt in my mind that
if he puts me into a wave,
204
00:11:25,935 --> 00:11:27,812
he's gonna come get me.
205
00:11:29,397 --> 00:11:32,358
{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]
206
00:11:45,037 --> 00:11:46,247
Never tried
this thing before,
207
00:11:46,247 --> 00:11:49,083
but I think I might want
some extra today.
208
00:11:49,083 --> 00:11:50,584
- CJ.
- Yo?
209
00:11:52,378 --> 00:11:54,338
{\an8}[imitates ripping]
210
00:11:54,338 --> 00:11:56,006
{\an8}Cool, thank you.
211
00:11:56,549 --> 00:11:59,343
See, that's why I hang with
the guys who know what's up.
212
00:12:01,137 --> 00:12:04,098
{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]
213
00:12:12,231 --> 00:12:15,151
[thrilling string music]
214
00:12:15,151 --> 00:12:16,235
Yeah.
215
00:12:17,194 --> 00:12:20,156
{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]
216
00:12:42,470 --> 00:12:44,680
I love surfing with Alemao
you know, like,
217
00:12:44,680 --> 00:12:47,183
'cause I can enjoy it and not
put too much pressure on it
218
00:12:47,183 --> 00:12:49,685
and, you know, maybe take
a leaf out CJ's book,
219
00:12:49,685 --> 00:12:52,146
and I might not take it
too seriously, you know, like--
220
00:12:54,940 --> 00:12:56,108
{\an8}Yeah.
221
00:12:57,651 --> 00:13:00,613
{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]
222
00:13:12,625 --> 00:13:19,590
♪ ♪
223
00:13:19,590 --> 00:13:21,383
I'm still learning,
I realized this morning.
224
00:13:21,383 --> 00:13:23,802
I'm, like,
learning how to surf, still.
225
00:13:29,391 --> 00:13:30,809
[laughs]
226
00:13:36,565 --> 00:13:37,733
{\an8}What?
227
00:13:37,733 --> 00:13:39,193
{\an8}- Wow.
- Pumping Friday.
228
00:13:39,193 --> 00:13:40,569
{\an8}- Wow.
- Pumping Saturday.
229
00:13:40,569 --> 00:13:42,863
- Okay.
- Paddle, tow, paddle, tow,
230
00:13:42,863 --> 00:13:46,033
paddle, tow,
get barreled.
231
00:13:46,033 --> 00:13:47,785
It's amazing.
What are you gonna do,
232
00:13:47,785 --> 00:13:49,578
spend the whole two weeks out
there in the water
233
00:13:49,578 --> 00:13:51,580
{\an8}and never come in?
234
00:13:51,580 --> 00:13:54,583
{\an8}- You would?
- Well, if I was maybe 21.
235
00:13:54,583 --> 00:13:56,627
- Yeah, right.
- Not 42.
236
00:13:59,713 --> 00:14:01,382
- Yeah.
- You know, you always
237
00:14:01,382 --> 00:14:03,133
- want more.
- [laughs] Yeah.
238
00:14:03,133 --> 00:14:05,427
- Want more.
- Want more.
239
00:14:05,427 --> 00:14:07,680
- But when's enough enough?
- I don't know.
240
00:14:07,680 --> 00:14:10,182
- When are we satisfied?
- Don't know.
241
00:14:35,916 --> 00:14:38,460
I hate it, honestly.
[laughs]
242
00:14:38,460 --> 00:14:42,631
I'm not a patient guy.
[laughter]
243
00:14:42,631 --> 00:14:45,676
My father's like,
"Don't worry. Calm."
244
00:14:45,676 --> 00:14:50,306
- Calm, calm.
- "Tranquilo."
245
00:14:50,306 --> 00:14:52,308
Since the trip we did
to Medeira,
246
00:14:52,308 --> 00:14:56,353
I started to spend way
more time with Justine.
247
00:14:56,353 --> 00:14:59,815
I liked the idea
about teaming up with Tony.
248
00:14:59,815 --> 00:15:02,276
We didn't have
that much experience
249
00:15:02,276 --> 00:15:07,114
driving the ski, so we could
really, like, improve together.
250
00:15:07,114 --> 00:15:08,741
- Do it? I push?
- No, no, it just--
251
00:15:08,741 --> 00:15:11,035
No, no, it's okay.
You can come from the ski.
252
00:15:11,035 --> 00:15:12,661
These ones are easy.
253
00:15:12,661 --> 00:15:15,289
I told her that I'm really
nervous driving for you.
254
00:15:15,289 --> 00:15:16,999
And she was like, "Why?"
255
00:15:16,999 --> 00:15:20,502
Like, because it's you,
you know?
256
00:15:20,502 --> 00:15:23,631
She just told me to, like,
drive like I know.
257
00:15:23,631 --> 00:15:26,175
{\an8}[breezy music]
258
00:15:26,175 --> 00:15:29,219
{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]
259
00:15:41,148 --> 00:15:42,983
For Justine, it was
a new start because
260
00:15:42,983 --> 00:15:45,944
she was feeling that I didn't
want to drive in big waves.
261
00:15:45,944 --> 00:15:48,989
So it was a release for me
to let them have fun.
262
00:15:48,989 --> 00:15:50,532
Perfection.
263
00:15:50,532 --> 00:15:53,827
I knew that Fredo,
he don't like it anymore.
264
00:15:53,827 --> 00:15:56,830
Like, it was too much
asking him
265
00:15:56,830 --> 00:16:00,000
to put me and to push me
on a crazy wave.
266
00:16:00,000 --> 00:16:03,253
For sure, there's a risk
with injury and all that.
267
00:16:03,253 --> 00:16:08,050
But it was tough because
I'm confident with him.
268
00:16:08,050 --> 00:16:12,554
I really felt, like,
kind of lost sometimes.
269
00:16:12,554 --> 00:16:15,599
{\an8}[both speaking French]
270
00:16:23,190 --> 00:16:25,067
I'm not doing it
because I love it.
271
00:16:25,067 --> 00:16:26,819
I'm doing it because
I need to do it.
272
00:16:26,819 --> 00:16:30,656
Because the most important
is Justine to be safe.
273
00:16:30,656 --> 00:16:33,701
{\an8}[speaking French]
274
00:16:45,546 --> 00:16:48,549
[thunder rumbling]
275
00:16:51,969 --> 00:16:54,430
[wind rustling]
276
00:16:54,430 --> 00:16:57,433
[tense music]
277
00:16:57,433 --> 00:17:04,440
♪ ♪
278
00:17:18,704 --> 00:17:21,415
♪ ♪
279
00:17:21,415 --> 00:17:23,125
The wind is kinda
complicated out there.
280
00:17:23,125 --> 00:17:25,127
You know, there's so much mist
281
00:17:25,127 --> 00:17:26,754
and it's a full
fuckin' storm out there.
282
00:17:28,172 --> 00:17:30,340
{\an8}You really gotta be
on your toes, you know.
283
00:17:30,340 --> 00:17:33,093
{\an8}But I like it.
I like the dramatic look,
284
00:17:33,093 --> 00:17:36,054
{\an8}the wind, the clouds, the--
you know.
285
00:17:36,054 --> 00:17:39,308
This one.
[all exclaim]
286
00:17:39,308 --> 00:17:41,143
Wow, stop.
287
00:17:41,143 --> 00:17:43,979
On that day, I can remember
being on the very, um--
288
00:17:43,979 --> 00:17:46,106
it's not, oh, you know,
"Is anyone getting any waves?"
289
00:17:46,106 --> 00:17:48,817
See, I'm looking at these--
see the set here coming in now?
290
00:17:52,863 --> 00:17:54,740
{\an8}Yeah. I don't know.
291
00:17:54,740 --> 00:17:56,658
{\an8}How you feeling?
What you thinking?
292
00:18:00,245 --> 00:18:02,414
That day, I said no,
293
00:18:02,414 --> 00:18:05,042
perhaps because I'm not
feeling worthy to be out there,
294
00:18:05,042 --> 00:18:07,086
or not feeling confident.
295
00:18:10,881 --> 00:18:14,343
- [shutting door]
- Let's put the fire on.
296
00:18:14,343 --> 00:18:17,679
We'll have a little day
indoors now, shall we?
297
00:18:22,601 --> 00:18:24,812
The waves are definitely big,
you know?
298
00:18:24,812 --> 00:18:28,106
It's just hard--
you know, it's hard to surf.
299
00:18:28,106 --> 00:18:30,234
But it's good training, so...
300
00:18:39,284 --> 00:18:41,995
If you said to Alemao,
"Let's go,"
301
00:18:41,995 --> 00:18:44,665
he would say, "I'll meet you
in the harbor in ten minutes."
302
00:18:45,958 --> 00:18:48,710
Looks fucking horrible.
303
00:18:48,710 --> 00:18:50,546
[dog barking]
304
00:18:50,546 --> 00:18:53,549
{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]
305
00:19:03,767 --> 00:19:05,102
- See you in a bit.
- See ya.
306
00:19:05,102 --> 00:19:06,687
- See you in a minute, buddy.
- Take care.
307
00:19:06,687 --> 00:19:08,063
- Yep.
- All right, now.
308
00:19:08,063 --> 00:19:09,731
Funny feeling,
being standing here
309
00:19:09,731 --> 00:19:12,901
watching them go out,
and I'm not going out.
310
00:19:12,901 --> 00:19:14,695
Am I gonna miss the wave
of my life
311
00:19:14,695 --> 00:19:16,238
if I don't go out there?
312
00:19:16,238 --> 00:19:21,827
♪ ♪
313
00:19:23,287 --> 00:19:27,040
No. Not at all.
314
00:19:27,040 --> 00:19:29,543
I'm very happy right here
on the land.
315
00:19:30,335 --> 00:19:32,421
It's nice to watch.
316
00:19:32,421 --> 00:19:34,339
Here they go. Here they go.
317
00:19:35,173 --> 00:19:36,550
Whoa.
318
00:19:43,265 --> 00:19:45,475
I'm up there,
watching out for Cotty,
319
00:19:45,475 --> 00:19:47,269
and he got a couple
really good waves.
320
00:19:49,855 --> 00:19:52,399
I see him catch this wave,
and he kicks out.
321
00:19:52,399 --> 00:19:53,734
Oh!
322
00:19:53,734 --> 00:19:56,361
Cotton.
He's in a bad spot.
323
00:20:02,492 --> 00:20:05,412
{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]
324
00:20:20,218 --> 00:20:22,137
[people exclaiming]
325
00:20:36,860 --> 00:20:38,695
[groaning]
326
00:20:48,205 --> 00:20:50,040
{\an8}No, but where's Cotty
and Alemao?
327
00:20:50,040 --> 00:20:52,209
{\an8}Just don't worry about the ski,
look at Cotty and Alemao.
328
00:20:52,209 --> 00:20:54,002
{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]
329
00:20:57,255 --> 00:20:58,715
{\an8}By the rock.
330
00:21:00,092 --> 00:21:01,635
{\an8}Tell him to go look
for Cotty by the rocks.
331
00:21:03,553 --> 00:21:05,514
Tell Lucas to get in there.
332
00:21:05,514 --> 00:21:08,600
Who has Lucas--
who's Lucas' spotter?
333
00:21:09,935 --> 00:21:12,145
Fuck, I better go down there.
334
00:21:12,145 --> 00:21:15,190
Get with Cotty.
Tell everyone to get Cotty.
335
00:21:15,190 --> 00:21:16,942
Fuck.
336
00:21:16,942 --> 00:21:19,653
[tense music]
337
00:21:19,653 --> 00:21:21,655
I did not see any--
all I thought was
338
00:21:21,655 --> 00:21:22,864
Cotty's on the rocks.
339
00:21:22,864 --> 00:21:25,826
♪ ♪
340
00:21:25,826 --> 00:21:28,537
{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]
341
00:21:30,622 --> 00:21:33,333
- He's there on the rock.
- Ahh.
342
00:21:33,333 --> 00:21:35,043
Everyone's been up
on that lighthouse.
343
00:21:35,043 --> 00:21:36,211
Everybody's looked down there.
344
00:21:36,211 --> 00:21:37,421
Everybody said to themselves,
345
00:21:37,421 --> 00:21:39,715
"If you get there,
you're done."
346
00:21:39,715 --> 00:21:41,717
And he went straight in there.
347
00:21:41,717 --> 00:21:45,929
[people whistling, shouting]
348
00:21:45,929 --> 00:21:49,599
[shouting indistinctly]
349
00:21:49,599 --> 00:21:52,602
[dramatic music]
350
00:21:52,602 --> 00:21:56,189
♪ ♪
351
00:21:56,189 --> 00:21:59,901
[whistling]
352
00:21:59,901 --> 00:22:04,031
♪ ♪
353
00:22:04,031 --> 00:22:07,075
{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]
354
00:22:15,042 --> 00:22:16,793
And I turn to the beach,
355
00:22:16,793 --> 00:22:19,296
I saw Garrett just drop
on the hill
356
00:22:19,296 --> 00:22:20,922
just, like, eyes on--
357
00:22:20,922 --> 00:22:24,760
"Man! Where's Cotty?
Are you good, Alemao?"
358
00:22:24,760 --> 00:22:26,762
- Are you all right?
- Yeah.
359
00:22:26,762 --> 00:22:28,805
- Yeah, yeah.
- I couldn't hold the ski.
360
00:22:28,805 --> 00:22:31,475
- But it hit my hands like--
- And Cotty was on the sled?
361
00:22:31,475 --> 00:22:33,101
Yeah, Cotty was there.
362
00:22:33,101 --> 00:22:35,145
And you went--
you guys split?
363
00:22:35,145 --> 00:22:37,355
♪ ♪
364
00:22:37,355 --> 00:22:38,482
I'm thinking,
365
00:22:38,482 --> 00:22:41,276
"He's on the rocks.
He's gone."
366
00:22:41,276 --> 00:22:47,074
♪ ♪
367
00:22:47,074 --> 00:22:48,867
{\an8}[radio static]
368
00:22:50,368 --> 00:22:52,037
{\an8}How are you?
Where are you?
369
00:22:55,123 --> 00:22:57,584
Alemao is fine.
They got him next to the rocks
370
00:22:57,584 --> 00:22:58,835
and brought him up
to the beach, he's fine.
371
00:22:58,835 --> 00:23:00,796
He's running around
on the beach, helping.
372
00:23:13,892 --> 00:23:17,938
[waves pounding]
373
00:23:17,938 --> 00:23:20,941
♪ ♪
374
00:23:20,941 --> 00:23:23,819
That guy just passed
through the rocks--Cotty.
375
00:23:23,819 --> 00:23:25,654
Can you imagine?
376
00:23:25,654 --> 00:23:28,698
{\an8}[both speaking Portuguese]
377
00:23:35,664 --> 00:23:38,125
[indistinct chatter]
378
00:23:51,972 --> 00:23:53,765
[exhales]
379
00:24:07,362 --> 00:24:09,781
[clears throat]
Pointless.
380
00:24:12,200 --> 00:24:14,911
[somber music]
381
00:24:14,911 --> 00:24:16,454
I was just on the sled,
and then, all of a sudden,
382
00:24:16,454 --> 00:24:17,998
like, we were in the air.
383
00:24:20,584 --> 00:24:21,543
I can remember looking down
384
00:24:21,543 --> 00:24:23,670
and seeing Alemao
in the water.
385
00:24:23,670 --> 00:24:26,339
Real quick, I, like,
climbed up to drive.
386
00:24:26,339 --> 00:24:28,884
And I thought Alemao
said to me,
387
00:24:28,884 --> 00:24:31,011
"I'm on,"
like, "Clear."
388
00:24:31,011 --> 00:24:32,721
So I just sort of gunned it.
389
00:24:32,721 --> 00:24:35,807
[people exclaiming]
390
00:24:40,979 --> 00:24:43,857
I knew I was in a bad spot.
391
00:24:43,857 --> 00:24:45,150
It was like, "Oh, fuck,
well, this is it."
392
00:24:45,150 --> 00:24:47,277
It's just like,
I'm proper fucked, you know?
393
00:24:47,277 --> 00:24:50,655
Like, this could be,
you know, it.
394
00:24:50,655 --> 00:24:52,324
And I was like,
"Fuck, if this thing draws
395
00:24:52,324 --> 00:24:55,577
"and then, like,
properly breaks,
396
00:24:55,577 --> 00:24:57,412
he gets smashed
into the rocks."
397
00:24:57,412 --> 00:24:59,706
♪ ♪
398
00:24:59,706 --> 00:25:01,082
[whistling]
399
00:25:01,082 --> 00:25:03,251
My adrenaline
was through the roof.
400
00:25:06,213 --> 00:25:09,674
And then, rather than break,
it surged.
401
00:25:09,674 --> 00:25:12,594
So I was getting sucked out.
402
00:25:12,594 --> 00:25:15,388
And I got pushed through
the other side.
403
00:25:15,388 --> 00:25:22,062
♪ ♪
404
00:25:22,062 --> 00:25:24,439
The ski was floating on
the other side of the rocks.
405
00:25:26,983 --> 00:25:28,526
And I can remember
getting on the ski
406
00:25:28,526 --> 00:25:30,028
and getting
on the spare radio...
407
00:25:30,028 --> 00:25:31,488
[static crackling]
408
00:25:31,488 --> 00:25:33,281
So glad you're okay.
409
00:25:33,281 --> 00:25:35,283
And speaking to Garrett
and Justine,
410
00:25:35,283 --> 00:25:36,743
and hearing Alemao
was all right and everything--
411
00:25:36,743 --> 00:25:39,287
that was like--
412
00:25:39,287 --> 00:25:43,750
was like the best bit.
413
00:25:43,750 --> 00:25:45,502
Oh, here he is.
414
00:25:48,255 --> 00:25:49,297
Oh.
415
00:25:59,891 --> 00:26:01,810
{\an8}No.
416
00:26:01,810 --> 00:26:03,895
- You don't wanna see it.
- Where is the video?
417
00:26:03,895 --> 00:26:06,564
[watching video on phone]
Oh, my God.
418
00:26:09,693 --> 00:26:11,903
When you saw the video,
were you annoyed,
419
00:26:11,903 --> 00:26:15,282
- like, this is--
- Um, I was just, you know,
420
00:26:15,282 --> 00:26:16,741
like, it's just stuff,
for fuck's sake.
421
00:26:18,493 --> 00:26:19,995
Again, like, the wipeout
had been the big news
422
00:26:19,995 --> 00:26:22,080
rather than, like,
all the good waves
423
00:26:22,080 --> 00:26:25,333
{\an8}that I surfed last week
or the week before.
424
00:26:25,333 --> 00:26:27,377
{\an8}Yeah, yeah, yeah.
Just check out the rocks.
425
00:26:28,295 --> 00:26:30,255
{\an8}Yeah. Happy days.
426
00:26:35,760 --> 00:26:37,679
Yeah, just don't--
let it be.
427
00:26:37,679 --> 00:26:40,181
Let it do whatever
it's gonna do.
428
00:26:40,181 --> 00:26:43,476
It doesn't matter.
It really doesn't matter.
429
00:26:43,476 --> 00:26:47,647
It was one
of the craziest things
430
00:26:47,647 --> 00:26:48,815
I've ever seen out here
431
00:26:48,815 --> 00:26:50,483
and craziest thing
I've ever experienced,
432
00:26:50,483 --> 00:26:53,486
watching my best friend
433
00:26:53,486 --> 00:26:55,530
going into the rocks
434
00:26:55,530 --> 00:26:59,868
and not knowing
if he was dead or not.
435
00:26:59,868 --> 00:27:02,996
[people shouting]
436
00:27:02,996 --> 00:27:05,206
[people whistling on phone]
437
00:27:05,206 --> 00:27:09,044
Dude, the way he's flopping
off the rocks like that--
438
00:27:09,044 --> 00:27:11,588
You know, seeing what happened
with Cotty and Alemao
439
00:27:11,588 --> 00:27:15,050
and launching on skis and
getting blasted and everything
440
00:27:15,050 --> 00:27:17,344
and me thinking, like, "Man,
I don't wanna do that."
441
00:27:17,344 --> 00:27:19,596
You know, it's pretty extreme.
442
00:27:21,348 --> 00:27:24,559
It's definitely set me back
in my ability to surf,
443
00:27:24,559 --> 00:27:28,396
or at least my confidence to
be able to handle a wipeout.
444
00:27:33,485 --> 00:27:36,905
I was guided
very clearly by Mother Nature,
445
00:27:36,905 --> 00:27:40,492
by life, to come to the ocean
and make an offering.
446
00:27:40,492 --> 00:27:43,495
[ethereal music]
447
00:27:43,495 --> 00:27:45,246
♪ ♪
448
00:27:45,246 --> 00:27:49,167
This last week
has been kinda tough.
449
00:27:49,167 --> 00:27:51,586
♪ ♪
450
00:27:51,586 --> 00:27:53,213
Mm.
451
00:27:59,511 --> 00:28:02,931
Just not feeling good enough
to be out there, you know?
452
00:28:05,225 --> 00:28:06,601
So it's been
really frustrating,
453
00:28:06,601 --> 00:28:09,938
but it's also been
a very enlightening week.
454
00:28:12,148 --> 00:28:14,067
Yeah, I'm just at the point
where I'm starting
455
00:28:14,067 --> 00:28:19,572
to manage the energy
differently, you know,
456
00:28:19,572 --> 00:28:22,867
realize that I only have
so much energy to offer.
457
00:28:24,536 --> 00:28:26,663
Yeah, so this week has
been good
458
00:28:26,663 --> 00:28:28,915
in reminding me
what's important.
459
00:28:35,797 --> 00:28:38,758
{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]
460
00:28:43,263 --> 00:28:45,723
{\an8}[sighs]
461
00:28:48,059 --> 00:28:50,979
{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]
462
00:29:02,031 --> 00:29:04,284
Wow, look at that.
463
00:29:04,284 --> 00:29:06,786
Whoo-hoo-hoo-hoo!
464
00:29:06,786 --> 00:29:08,037
Beautiful.
465
00:29:21,676 --> 00:29:24,637
{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]
466
00:29:35,356 --> 00:29:38,276
[majestic music]
467
00:29:38,276 --> 00:29:45,325
♪ ♪
468
00:30:08,848 --> 00:30:10,850
Going out there,
surfing and training
469
00:30:10,850 --> 00:30:12,727
and connecting with Alemao,
470
00:30:12,727 --> 00:30:16,231
just made it so clear, like,
I can put forth an effort
471
00:30:16,231 --> 00:30:20,193
to go bigger, to do better,
push my limits more.
472
00:30:21,778 --> 00:30:22,737
Then, all of a sudden,
473
00:30:22,737 --> 00:30:24,739
there's a swell
on the horizon.
474
00:30:24,739 --> 00:30:26,324
It was one of these big ones
coming in.
475
00:30:26,324 --> 00:30:28,034
The winds are looking good.
476
00:30:28,034 --> 00:30:31,371
It was appearing
to line up very nicely.
477
00:30:31,371 --> 00:30:33,998
It's like, oh,
this swell is coming in,
478
00:30:33,998 --> 00:30:36,251
and you're due for your waves,
and you're ready,
479
00:30:36,251 --> 00:30:37,961
you've been training.
480
00:30:37,961 --> 00:30:41,422
My plan is to surf
481
00:30:41,422 --> 00:30:43,925
the biggest wave
I've ever ridden.
482
00:30:55,395 --> 00:30:58,314
{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]
483
00:31:05,863 --> 00:31:08,866
{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]
484
00:31:16,165 --> 00:31:17,792
That's why we have
so many cameramans around.
485
00:31:17,792 --> 00:31:20,003
{\an8}Look at this. We got one, two,
three, four,
486
00:31:20,003 --> 00:31:22,130
{\an8}five, six, seven.
487
00:31:22,130 --> 00:31:24,465
There's more filmers
than surfers right now.
488
00:31:24,465 --> 00:31:27,427
- [laughs]
- They film, and they showcase
489
00:31:27,427 --> 00:31:29,470
a day of action in the ocean.
490
00:31:32,557 --> 00:31:35,518
{\an8}[speaking French]
491
00:31:42,483 --> 00:31:45,361
We wanted to team up with Tony,
492
00:31:45,361 --> 00:31:48,615
but it was really big swell.
493
00:31:48,615 --> 00:31:51,451
We did not--
that much training together.
494
00:31:51,451 --> 00:31:54,579
So I went with the person
I'm more confident with,
495
00:31:54,579 --> 00:31:57,123
and she went with the person
that she's more confident.
496
00:31:57,123 --> 00:31:59,417
This swell is gonna be like
497
00:31:59,417 --> 00:32:02,670
the good old days,
just me and my dad.
498
00:32:02,670 --> 00:32:06,841
{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]
499
00:32:06,841 --> 00:32:11,804
My goal for Gigantes was to
leave this day with Fred.
500
00:32:11,804 --> 00:32:15,224
I said to him, like,
"Please do it one more time.
501
00:32:15,224 --> 00:32:17,810
"One more time, we're going
in the water together
502
00:32:17,810 --> 00:32:19,896
"to get one big wave.
503
00:32:19,896 --> 00:32:21,648
"Like, one crazy big one.
504
00:32:21,648 --> 00:32:24,734
And then I stop asking you."
505
00:32:24,734 --> 00:32:26,819
- Yeah?
- She wants to surf with me.
506
00:32:26,819 --> 00:32:28,154
So I was like, "Okay."
507
00:32:28,154 --> 00:32:30,490
[exhales]
"Okay, let's do it."
508
00:32:30,490 --> 00:32:33,785
It may be
the last big session
509
00:32:33,785 --> 00:32:35,495
that we will share together.
510
00:32:35,495 --> 00:32:38,289
Let's stop after the session
that we are proud of.
511
00:32:38,289 --> 00:32:41,167
♪ ♪
512
00:32:53,471 --> 00:32:55,556
- Happy New Year, bro.
- Hey, mate. You all right?
513
00:32:55,556 --> 00:32:57,725
- Yeah, happy New Year.
- How was it?
514
00:32:57,725 --> 00:33:00,103
- Ooh, I saw a really good set.
- Yeah?
515
00:33:00,103 --> 00:33:01,270
Yeah.
516
00:33:02,980 --> 00:33:05,024
Right when it pulled up,
517
00:33:05,024 --> 00:33:06,818
perfect left and right.
518
00:33:06,818 --> 00:33:09,028
Good peak and then a second--
519
00:33:09,028 --> 00:33:10,363
It's gonna get way bigger,
though, isn't it?
520
00:33:10,363 --> 00:33:12,281
Oh, yeah.
Gonna get huge.
521
00:33:13,116 --> 00:33:15,868
You know, I suppose I'd
already had, like, a bad run.
522
00:33:15,868 --> 00:33:17,370
I was kinda paranoid
about getting
523
00:33:17,370 --> 00:33:19,038
on the back of skis with people
524
00:33:19,038 --> 00:33:23,418
'cause, well, you know,
they can end badly.
525
00:33:35,179 --> 00:33:39,600
{\an8}[laughs]
[speaking French]
526
00:34:02,665 --> 00:34:05,710
[singing in Portuguese]
527
00:34:10,173 --> 00:34:15,553
I still didn't feel like I was
in the club, in the surf club.
528
00:34:15,553 --> 00:34:17,180
You gotta do something sick
529
00:34:17,180 --> 00:34:19,015
in order to be
in the club, right?
530
00:34:19,015 --> 00:34:21,142
[whooshes]
All right.
531
00:34:21,142 --> 00:34:22,643
[dramatic orchestral music]
532
00:34:22,643 --> 00:34:24,645
It was probably
the most excited
533
00:34:24,645 --> 00:34:28,191
I've ever seen CJ to surf.
534
00:34:28,191 --> 00:34:33,279
Whoo, whoo, whoo!
535
00:34:33,279 --> 00:34:35,948
Cotty and CJ were partners,
536
00:34:35,948 --> 00:34:40,328
and Garrett
was driving them both.
537
00:34:40,328 --> 00:34:41,954
You know, to be honest,
538
00:34:41,954 --> 00:34:46,751
I wasn't feeling real confident
in my driving.
539
00:34:47,794 --> 00:34:49,378
I was feeling human.
I was feeling
540
00:34:49,378 --> 00:34:51,255
like maybe Alemao
should be driving.
541
00:34:51,255 --> 00:34:53,966
He's been towing out there
so much more than me.
542
00:34:53,966 --> 00:34:57,136
- Mic check.
- Loud and clear.
543
00:34:57,136 --> 00:34:58,137
Garrett mentions to me,
he's like,
544
00:34:58,137 --> 00:34:59,388
"You want Alemao to drive you?"
545
00:34:59,388 --> 00:35:02,517
And I'm thinking to myself,
"Wow."
546
00:35:04,101 --> 00:35:05,061
{\an8}I'm bringing it, yeah.
547
00:35:05,061 --> 00:35:06,604
{\an8}- [laughs]
- It's coming. Now it's time.
548
00:35:06,604 --> 00:35:08,439
- The blue eagle cams.
- Oh, the blue.
549
00:35:08,439 --> 00:35:09,690
- Blue eagle, beautiful.
- [laughs]
550
00:35:09,690 --> 00:35:12,485
Alemao has been out here
driving on all the big days.
551
00:35:12,485 --> 00:35:14,570
He would put me on the wave.
552
00:35:14,570 --> 00:35:17,782
But, no, Garrett's supposed
to put me on this wave.
553
00:35:17,782 --> 00:35:19,617
He was feeling a little unsure
in that moment.
554
00:35:19,617 --> 00:35:21,285
I said, "No, you got this."
555
00:35:21,285 --> 00:35:22,578
Let's go.
556
00:35:23,579 --> 00:35:26,165
Yoo! That was exciting.
557
00:35:26,165 --> 00:35:27,708
Whoo-hoo!
558
00:35:29,460 --> 00:35:30,753
{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]
559
00:35:32,505 --> 00:35:36,134
Whoo!
560
00:35:37,468 --> 00:35:40,429
Oh, my God!
561
00:35:54,652 --> 00:35:56,863
{\an8}Hey, guys,
we're here today.
562
00:35:56,863 --> 00:35:59,031
{\an8}It's absolutely firing.
563
00:35:59,031 --> 00:36:01,784
{\an8}Pretty huge.
I'm not gonna say biggest ever,
564
00:36:01,784 --> 00:36:03,452
{\an8}but it's really big out there.
565
00:36:08,416 --> 00:36:11,460
[cheers and applause]
566
00:36:11,460 --> 00:36:13,629
The whole cliff
is full of people.
567
00:36:13,629 --> 00:36:16,549
It's a circus, right.
568
00:36:16,549 --> 00:36:18,134
After Fe was born,
569
00:36:18,134 --> 00:36:20,761
everything was quasi-
back to normal.
570
00:36:20,761 --> 00:36:22,555
And I was adamant
I was gonna go do safety.
571
00:36:22,555 --> 00:36:24,432
- [laughs]
- Aww.
572
00:36:24,432 --> 00:36:27,435
So I had to see
if she's all snuggled.
573
00:36:27,435 --> 00:36:28,936
- That's so sweet.
- Garrett,
574
00:36:28,936 --> 00:36:30,938
what's your position?
575
00:36:30,938 --> 00:36:33,900
We're in between
first and second.
576
00:36:33,900 --> 00:36:35,568
Got you.
577
00:36:35,568 --> 00:36:37,904
[dramatic music]
578
00:36:37,904 --> 00:36:38,988
We're looking,
and it's, like,
579
00:36:38,988 --> 00:36:41,073
kinda bumpy and really big.
580
00:36:42,825 --> 00:36:44,869
I'm watching Lucas Chumbo
out there,
581
00:36:44,869 --> 00:36:48,789
and they're putting him
way outside on these big bobs.
582
00:36:49,665 --> 00:36:52,627
{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]
583
00:37:02,511 --> 00:37:05,640
And Justine, like, everyone
getting waves, you know.
584
00:37:06,724 --> 00:37:09,644
{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]
585
00:37:30,831 --> 00:37:32,208
When offered
the opportunity,
586
00:37:32,208 --> 00:37:33,459
Cotty doesn't wanna surf,
587
00:37:33,459 --> 00:37:35,586
Alemao doesn't wanna surf,
Garrett doesn't wanna surf.
588
00:37:35,586 --> 00:37:37,004
And I'm, like, thinking.
589
00:37:37,004 --> 00:37:38,130
I'm like,
"I'm thinking of going for it."
590
00:37:41,759 --> 00:37:44,011
{\an8}[laughs]
591
00:37:44,011 --> 00:37:45,471
He says, "Give me the rope."
592
00:37:55,439 --> 00:37:58,192
Outside,
there's a humongous wave.
593
00:37:58,192 --> 00:37:59,860
Outside.
594
00:38:01,737 --> 00:38:03,906
Oh, it's big.
595
00:38:03,906 --> 00:38:06,742
I might not be able to watch.
596
00:38:06,742 --> 00:38:08,786
The way I feel
about my brother surfing
597
00:38:08,786 --> 00:38:11,831
is probably how everybody
expects me to feel
598
00:38:11,831 --> 00:38:14,166
about my husband surfing.
599
00:38:14,166 --> 00:38:18,254
But with CJ, it almost
makes me sick.
600
00:38:18,254 --> 00:38:19,922
Oh, my God.
Is that them?
601
00:38:19,922 --> 00:38:22,383
- Yep.
- That's them?
602
00:38:22,383 --> 00:38:23,884
That's CJ.
603
00:38:25,553 --> 00:38:26,721
I knew the one I wanted.
604
00:38:26,721 --> 00:38:28,723
I wanted the big left
on the first peak.
605
00:38:31,642 --> 00:38:34,562
{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]
606
00:38:42,945 --> 00:38:44,363
He was super focused,
607
00:38:44,363 --> 00:38:47,324
went out there with a goal,
achieved the goal,
608
00:38:47,324 --> 00:38:51,203
and he was surfing
really good.
609
00:38:51,203 --> 00:38:53,873
Finally, he showed that
he's got something going on.
610
00:38:53,873 --> 00:38:55,082
He can do it.
611
00:38:55,082 --> 00:38:57,418
- CJ manned up.
- Yeah.
612
00:38:57,418 --> 00:38:59,587
That was pretty cool.
613
00:39:00,337 --> 00:39:05,885
I am super proud of how CJ
surfed that January swell.
614
00:39:07,803 --> 00:39:09,847
It definitely opened
people's eyes
615
00:39:09,847 --> 00:39:11,766
to him not just being there
616
00:39:11,766 --> 00:39:13,934
just because he's
Garrett's brother-in-law.
617
00:39:13,934 --> 00:39:15,936
Like, he actually has talent.
618
00:39:15,936 --> 00:39:17,313
I've been shooting him
for three years,
619
00:39:17,313 --> 00:39:19,523
and I was really impressed.
620
00:39:19,523 --> 00:39:21,442
He gained a lot, a lot
of respect from everybody.
621
00:39:24,278 --> 00:39:27,281
{\an8}[laughs] Yoo!
622
00:39:27,281 --> 00:39:31,911
The inkling was starting
that I had, like,
623
00:39:31,911 --> 00:39:34,955
earned my keep a little bit,
but it wasn't complete.
624
00:39:36,332 --> 00:39:39,376
So it's like,
how far can I push myself?
625
00:39:48,094 --> 00:39:49,637
Dude, I haven't surfed
enough, man.
626
00:39:49,637 --> 00:39:50,805
- Nothing?
- I haven't surfed
627
00:39:50,805 --> 00:39:52,306
the wave of my life,
628
00:39:52,306 --> 00:39:56,143
and it's about time
I surf the wave of my life.
629
00:39:56,143 --> 00:39:58,646
It was a full-on day, you know,
from morning till dark.
630
00:39:58,646 --> 00:40:00,106
People pushing the limits,
631
00:40:00,106 --> 00:40:01,440
people riding
some of the biggest waves
632
00:40:01,440 --> 00:40:03,067
they've ever ridden.
633
00:40:03,067 --> 00:40:06,070
[thrilling music]
634
00:40:06,070 --> 00:40:09,949
♪ ♪
635
00:40:09,949 --> 00:40:12,952
{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]
636
00:40:15,663 --> 00:40:18,290
My goal for that day
wasn't even, like,
637
00:40:18,290 --> 00:40:20,126
to catch the biggest one.
638
00:40:20,126 --> 00:40:23,212
It was to, do,
like, some really good lines.
639
00:40:23,212 --> 00:40:27,508
Try to risk more, not good
all the time, like, straight.
640
00:40:52,408 --> 00:40:55,327
{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]
641
00:40:58,080 --> 00:40:59,540
I knew it was
a nasty wipeout
642
00:40:59,540 --> 00:41:01,000
when I saw my father's face.
643
00:41:01,000 --> 00:41:03,586
Like,
the eyes were really open,
644
00:41:03,586 --> 00:41:06,046
and he knew there was a big one
behind me.
645
00:41:21,896 --> 00:41:24,815
{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]
646
00:41:28,277 --> 00:41:31,780
Chumbo saw me,
he picked me up.
647
00:41:31,780 --> 00:41:34,241
[cheers and applause]
648
00:41:34,241 --> 00:41:36,368
I told him, like,
"Leave me in the sand.
649
00:41:36,368 --> 00:41:38,704
I need to go
pick up my board."
650
00:41:45,753 --> 00:41:48,214
{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]
651
00:41:48,214 --> 00:41:51,008
{\an8}[whistling]
652
00:41:55,763 --> 00:41:58,140
I always loved to get pounded,
you know,
653
00:41:58,140 --> 00:42:00,809
the rush and the feeling
of adrenaline.
654
00:42:00,809 --> 00:42:04,772
After that wipeout,
for a long time,
655
00:42:04,772 --> 00:42:07,024
I got, like,
what I mean--
656
00:42:07,024 --> 00:42:09,527
it's not that funny to get
pounded anymore, you know?
657
00:42:09,527 --> 00:42:12,529
[dramatic tone]
658
00:42:12,529 --> 00:42:15,574
♪ ♪
659
00:42:15,574 --> 00:42:18,452
[crowd cheering]
660
00:42:25,125 --> 00:42:27,461
It was the day of carnage.
661
00:42:27,461 --> 00:42:29,797
Mama Nazaré won that day.
662
00:42:32,216 --> 00:42:35,177
{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]
663
00:42:42,768 --> 00:42:44,103
{\an8}Whoa.
664
00:42:46,897 --> 00:42:48,065
{\an8}At least.
665
00:42:51,193 --> 00:42:54,154
It was a good session.
We were happy about it.
666
00:42:54,154 --> 00:42:57,616
Now we can be proud, and it
can be the end of the session.
667
00:42:57,616 --> 00:42:59,618
And then Lucas came
on the lineup, and he's like,
668
00:42:59,618 --> 00:43:02,454
"Oh, Justine, let's catch
a few waves together."
669
00:43:02,454 --> 00:43:05,499
{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]
670
00:43:06,500 --> 00:43:07,668
And in my mind, I was like,
671
00:43:07,668 --> 00:43:09,336
we survived
for four hours alone.
672
00:43:09,336 --> 00:43:12,339
And now, Lucas is
the best driver in Nazaré.
673
00:43:12,339 --> 00:43:13,716
Go with him.
Like, I do safety,
674
00:43:13,716 --> 00:43:15,718
Lucas tow you,
and we--we're good.
675
00:43:15,718 --> 00:43:19,013
Amazing, like,
the perfect combination for me.
676
00:43:19,013 --> 00:43:26,061
♪ ♪
677
00:43:28,230 --> 00:43:29,648
[crowd cheering]
678
00:43:29,648 --> 00:43:32,693
{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]
679
00:43:36,280 --> 00:43:39,325
And I saw Justine going down
on that huge wave.
680
00:43:39,325 --> 00:43:40,951
I was right
at the bottom of it,
681
00:43:40,951 --> 00:43:42,870
and it was horrific.
682
00:43:42,870 --> 00:43:47,082
♪ ♪
683
00:43:47,082 --> 00:43:49,668
She fell in the apex
of the wave,
684
00:43:49,668 --> 00:43:51,962
and thing just
obliterated her.
685
00:44:00,429 --> 00:44:02,431
{\an8}[radio chatter]
686
00:44:04,850 --> 00:44:05,893
I think she got
really pounded,
687
00:44:05,893 --> 00:44:07,936
and they're really close
to the rocks.
688
00:44:09,646 --> 00:44:11,857
That's the worst situation
she's ever had.
689
00:44:11,857 --> 00:44:14,860
So, I look, and I know
there is Lucas with me.
690
00:44:14,860 --> 00:44:16,820
She popped up far from us.
691
00:44:16,820 --> 00:44:19,698
She's popped up, like,
way closer to the cliff
692
00:44:19,698 --> 00:44:22,368
than what I was expecting.
693
00:44:22,368 --> 00:44:24,453
And I see a little window
where I'm like, "Okay,
694
00:44:24,453 --> 00:44:26,538
I can go. I can rush to her
and get her."
695
00:44:26,538 --> 00:44:29,583
{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]
696
00:44:32,169 --> 00:44:33,212
Lucas is screaming at me,
697
00:44:33,212 --> 00:44:35,255
"Don't go! Don't go! Don't go!
Wait, wait! Don't go!"
698
00:44:35,255 --> 00:44:36,465
I'm like, "Fuck you, I'll go."
699
00:44:36,465 --> 00:44:40,511
♪ ♪
700
00:44:50,145 --> 00:44:52,106
The next wave
is super close.
701
00:44:52,106 --> 00:44:54,983
I look behind,
and she come drag the sled
702
00:44:54,983 --> 00:44:57,903
and I'm already
in the face of the wave.
703
00:44:57,903 --> 00:45:04,743
♪ ♪
704
00:45:04,743 --> 00:45:07,121
And as soon as I miss her,
I'm like, okay,
705
00:45:07,121 --> 00:45:09,081
if I fucked up, I'm dead.
706
00:45:09,081 --> 00:45:12,084
And she's dead.
707
00:45:12,084 --> 00:45:15,838
It was such
a crazy decision for him
708
00:45:15,838 --> 00:45:18,215
because if he
wouldn't have done it,
709
00:45:18,215 --> 00:45:22,302
it was, like, 100% sure
that we will crash.
710
00:45:22,302 --> 00:45:28,308
So it would have been
two person in danger.
711
00:45:28,308 --> 00:45:30,018
When I was on the wave,
I was like, "Okay,
712
00:45:30,018 --> 00:45:31,979
"I need to survive,
because otherwise,
713
00:45:31,979 --> 00:45:35,232
Fred will think about that
for his entire life."
714
00:45:35,232 --> 00:45:37,234
He'll, like--he will have
too much regret.
715
00:45:37,234 --> 00:45:39,695
So, I was like, "Okay,
hold onto life.
716
00:45:39,695 --> 00:45:40,946
It's gonna be okay."
717
00:45:43,574 --> 00:45:45,659
I keep hearing
on the radio, "Okay,
718
00:45:45,659 --> 00:45:47,453
"she's getting closer
to a cliff.
719
00:45:47,453 --> 00:45:48,704
She's getting closer
to the cliff."
720
00:45:48,704 --> 00:45:50,956
{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]
721
00:45:52,708 --> 00:45:55,002
Chumbo was, like,
going over the falls
722
00:45:55,002 --> 00:45:57,045
with the ski after her.
723
00:45:57,045 --> 00:46:00,507
♪ ♪
724
00:46:00,507 --> 00:46:01,550
And then you see
at that point,
725
00:46:01,550 --> 00:46:03,802
she's, like,
three meters from the cliff.
726
00:46:03,802 --> 00:46:08,182
♪ ♪
727
00:46:08,182 --> 00:46:10,934
I see all the people
on the cliff, like, screaming,
728
00:46:10,934 --> 00:46:15,063
and making signs.
[people shouting]
729
00:46:15,063 --> 00:46:18,650
I just turn, and I hear Lucas
was there with the ski.
730
00:46:18,650 --> 00:46:20,319
I was, "No way! Come on!
731
00:46:20,319 --> 00:46:22,154
Please, wait, wait for me,
wait for me!"
732
00:46:25,699 --> 00:46:28,827
[cheers and applause]
733
00:46:35,876 --> 00:46:42,883
♪ ♪
734
00:46:48,847 --> 00:46:51,266
{\an8}[speaking French]
735
00:46:51,266 --> 00:46:52,559
{\an8}I was questioning myself,
736
00:46:52,559 --> 00:46:55,562
like, why are you putting
your body
737
00:46:55,562 --> 00:46:56,939
into this situation?
738
00:46:56,939 --> 00:47:02,861
And, next will be like this
or, like,
739
00:47:02,861 --> 00:47:05,072
what's the purpose of that?
740
00:47:05,072 --> 00:47:08,158
{\an8}[speaking French]
741
00:47:12,162 --> 00:47:18,418
♪ ♪
742
00:47:18,418 --> 00:47:21,255
A lot of huge waves
came in that day.
743
00:47:21,255 --> 00:47:22,798
It was humongous.
744
00:47:24,341 --> 00:47:26,260
I swear, it was 100-foot-plus.
745
00:47:29,513 --> 00:47:32,808
Garrett was just, like,
super proud of CJ
746
00:47:32,808 --> 00:47:35,644
and super excited
and, for the first time,
747
00:47:35,644 --> 00:47:37,938
I think, felt that CJ really
wanted it.
748
00:47:37,938 --> 00:47:41,108
So, Garrett was really excited
to get him
749
00:47:41,108 --> 00:47:42,693
the wave that he wanted.
750
00:47:47,531 --> 00:47:49,157
CJ was hungry.
751
00:47:49,157 --> 00:47:52,869
He was looking for
the biggest wave of the day.
752
00:47:52,869 --> 00:47:54,580
I'm feeling nerves
753
00:47:54,580 --> 00:47:56,582
and the immensity
of the situation
754
00:47:56,582 --> 00:47:58,542
and just how much it means
for my whole life.
755
00:47:58,542 --> 00:48:01,003
Like, I'm trying to get
the ride of a lifetime.
756
00:48:03,005 --> 00:48:05,465
This wave just pops up,
and I go, "You want it?"
757
00:48:05,465 --> 00:48:07,217
And he goes, "Yeah."
758
00:48:07,217 --> 00:48:10,012
And I think they both kinda
had it in their mind
759
00:48:10,012 --> 00:48:13,015
that this might be
the 100-foot wave.
760
00:48:13,015 --> 00:48:14,474
I'm like, "Yeah, okay."
761
00:48:14,474 --> 00:48:16,435
I feel really confident
right now to go for this,
762
00:48:16,435 --> 00:48:17,728
and that's cool.
763
00:48:18,854 --> 00:48:20,147
Here he goes.
764
00:48:20,147 --> 00:48:21,607
Oh!
765
00:48:21,607 --> 00:48:28,655
♪ ♪
766
00:48:39,541 --> 00:48:42,169
Ah! Ahh!
767
00:48:51,595 --> 00:48:53,430
{\an8}Keep an eye out.
[radio chatter]
768
00:48:53,430 --> 00:48:57,726
Where is your uncle?
Keep an eye out.
769
00:48:57,726 --> 00:48:59,311
- Where are they?
- Shit.
770
00:49:04,358 --> 00:49:07,152
[radio chatter]
771
00:49:07,152 --> 00:49:09,821
Alemao went in
to look for him,
772
00:49:09,821 --> 00:49:11,698
couldn't see him.
773
00:49:11,698 --> 00:49:18,747
♪ ♪
774
00:49:23,919 --> 00:49:26,797
I'm running inside
like crazy.
775
00:49:26,797 --> 00:49:29,633
Near the rocks--he's not
really near the rocks.
776
00:49:30,967 --> 00:49:34,638
Where is he?
777
00:49:34,638 --> 00:49:38,016
I don't have eyes on CJ.
Does anybody have him?
778
00:49:40,644 --> 00:49:42,854
Where the hell is he?
779
00:49:47,609 --> 00:49:51,363
I could hear Nicole sounding
more and more panicked.
780
00:49:51,363 --> 00:49:54,449
Did he have any floatation
other than his vest?
781
00:49:54,449 --> 00:49:56,201
And I was thinking, like,
782
00:49:56,201 --> 00:49:58,203
he got hit that hard,
but maybe unconscious
783
00:49:58,203 --> 00:49:59,913
and pulled his vest,
and you know--
784
00:49:59,913 --> 00:50:01,873
You just--you know--
you just don't even wanna
785
00:50:01,873 --> 00:50:03,500
think about it,
you know, like--
786
00:50:03,500 --> 00:50:05,669
Garrett,
I don't see him anywhere.
787
00:50:07,212 --> 00:50:08,630
What the fuck?
788
00:50:13,969 --> 00:50:15,971
He's not floating.
He's on all that floatation.
789
00:50:15,971 --> 00:50:17,597
He should be floating.
So I was, "Oh, God,
790
00:50:17,597 --> 00:50:18,932
did his wet suit
get ripped off?"
791
00:50:18,932 --> 00:50:20,142
That would be--
792
00:50:30,360 --> 00:50:33,613
What if we don't find him?
Like...
793
00:50:33,613 --> 00:50:36,283
how do you find somebody
who's lost at sea?
794
00:50:36,283 --> 00:50:40,454
Oh, my God. Garrett!
I don't see him anywhere!
795
00:50:40,454 --> 00:50:42,873
I was watching the whole time.
He popped up
796
00:50:42,873 --> 00:50:44,249
after the first wave.
797
00:50:44,249 --> 00:50:46,877
The second wave came,
and I never saw him come up
798
00:50:46,877 --> 00:50:48,754
after the second wave.
799
00:50:51,631 --> 00:50:54,468
{\an8}He's--
We just have to keep looking.
800
00:50:56,052 --> 00:50:57,637
Oh, fuck.
801
00:50:57,637 --> 00:51:00,682
♪ ♪
802
00:51:00,682 --> 00:51:03,769
[radio chatter]
803
00:51:15,071 --> 00:51:22,037
♪ ♪
804
00:52:01,618 --> 00:52:03,161
[bright tone]
60006
Can't find what you're looking for?
Get subtitles in any language from opensubtitles.com, and translate them here.