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[♪]
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[Wind whistles]
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[David Suzuki]:
The end of the last Ice Age
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signalled the birth
of modern Canada.
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But thousands of years later,
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much of the north
is still buried under ice.
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People have shaped and exploited
other areas of Canada,
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but the ice and cold
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have made the far north
seem impenetrable.
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Few people or animals
feel at home here.
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Less than 1% of North American mammals
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can survive year-round
above the tree line.
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Ice defines the Arctic,
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and what happens to ice here
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will influence the entire planet.
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Ice suits one creature more
than any other in the Arctic...
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The Polar bear.
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Last fall, this mother built
her den in the frozen ground
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and gave birth to a pair of cubs
over winter.
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She hasn't eaten for eight months.
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But she's lost almost
half her body weight,
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and relies
on a double-layered coat of fur
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to keep warm.
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She needs to find food soon.
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But she will have to wait
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until her cubs
are confident enough
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to travel long distances.
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They have no immediate worries,
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as their mother will nurse them
for around two years.
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So for now,
they can explore and play.
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The ice that will become
their greatest ally
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is at first strange and new.
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In early spring,
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this family will travel
hundreds of kilometres
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to reach hunting grounds
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before the break up
of the sea ice.
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Polar bears hunt seals
in many different ways,
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but they all rely on sea ice.
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To anyone who hasn't spent
their life here,
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Arctic ice appears to be
a single entity.
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In fact, it takes
many different forms
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both on land and sea,
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varying massively in age,
consistency, and behaviour.
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Some communities in the north
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have 70 different words
to describe sea ice,
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even more than they have for snow.
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Ice can be many different things,
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from gigantic glaciers
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to the smallest crystals,
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and some ice behaves
in astonishing ways.
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With the right conditions,
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one of the Arctic's secret
ice wonders
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starts to grow.
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They are called frost flowers,
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a phenomenon where
beautiful patterns of ice
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form on the frozen sea
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when temperatures suddenly plummet.
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No one knows for sure
why they form,
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but scientists know
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that they contain a high
concentration of bacteria,
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the building blocks of life.
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Only hours after they appear,
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their intricate structures
start to fade,
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leaving no trace behind.
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Sea ice is almost always in flux,
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and it can move in all sorts of ways.
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Seen from the level of the frozen sea,
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it looks as if the cliffs
are climbing to the sky.
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But this illusion is created
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by some of the largest tides
in the world,
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which are still flowing
underneath the ice.
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When the tide comes back in,
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the temporary ice cliffs vanish
once again.
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This landscape appears to breathe.
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These forceful tides present
hidden opportunities,
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but are also extremely dangerous.
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With all other traditional food sources
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hard to find in february,
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these hunters will take the risk.
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They know that at the lowest tides,
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the sea under the thick ice
retreats so far back
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that if you know what to look for,
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you can find stable
hollow spaces under the ice.
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This gives them access
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to the rich bounty of the seabed.
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It's knowledge that has been passed down
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from generation to generation.
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They are willing to risk the danger
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from tonnes of ice
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just centimetres above their heads,
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all for an unlikely source
of nutritious food...
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Thousands of rich mussels,
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enough to feed all their families.
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They have less than an hour
to collect them
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before the tide returns.
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When the sea starts to come back,
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there's no time to lose.
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They must leave now before
the cave fills with seawater,
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trapping them beneath the ice.
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In moments, the ice seals over,
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and there's no trace of anyone
having been there.
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[Wind blows]
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Like the Inuit,
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the animals that live year round
in the Arctic
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also know how to exploit
local conditions
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to find hidden food.
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Even though the sea freezes over winter,
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there are places
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where the current and wind
keeps the water open.
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Called Polynyas, they act like oases,
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and are magnets for animals.
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In the middle of Hudson Bay,
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common Eider ducks are drawn
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to one of these patches of open water
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to find food.
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They appear to fly
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as they dive to depths of 15 metres
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to forage on the ocean floor.
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They are looking
for mussels and urchins.
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Their digestive juices are so powerful
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that they can eat
the mussels, shells and all.
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They can dive a long way
on a single breath,
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knowing the way back up
only takes seconds.
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In the deep winter,
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with a wind chill
that makes it feel like -70,
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the opening in the sea ice
is starting to close.
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Without open water,
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the birds have slim chances of survival.
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The stronger birds sense
what's happening
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and fly off to find new water,
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even though they have no idea
how far that might be,
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or if they'll make it.
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But to stay is also risky.
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The temperature needs to warm up
to keep the water open.
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At some indefinable point,
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the ducks' options are gone.
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Their energy is fading,
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and they can't dive to get more food.
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00:13:34,436 --> 00:13:36,371
Sadly for the ducks,
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the march of the ice here is unstoppable.
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By april,
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the sun is back
for a good 12 hours each day,
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and the land gradually warms.
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The rise in temperatures
triggers the spring melt,
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a period of frenetic change
and activity in the Arctic...
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Which is focused at the floe edge,
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the boundary between
the open water and sea ice.
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It's the ice that is the key
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to the blooming of life here
at this time of year.
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Long strands of algae grow,
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which feed vast blooms
of microscopic plankton,
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the food for the explosion
of life here each spring.
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Under the ice,
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there is twice the productivity
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that would occur in the open ocean.
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Fish, like the Arctic cod...
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Seabirds...
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And large mammals, like the seal,
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are all drawn in.
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In a matter of weeks,
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this seemingly desolate frozen sea
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has become a hotspot for life...
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And that means it's the perfect time
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for the Arctic's top predator
to show up.
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It's springtime at the floe edge,
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and Polar bears are here
to hunt ringed seals.
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Seals are most vulnerable
when basking on the sea ice,
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so they choose open areas
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where they can see and smell
approaching predators.
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The Polar bear goes hungry...
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Again.
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Nine out of every ten hunts
end in failure.
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The Polar bear rarely stops
looking for food,
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and there's plenty around here.
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Polar bears are not
the only big predators
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who have come to the floe edge
to find seals.
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[Wind whistles and blows]
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With harpoon ready,
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the Inuit hunter patiently waits
perfectly still by a seal hole.
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The approach is so similar to the bear's
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that it's hard not to suppose
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that the Polar bear
inspired the Inuit
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thousands of years ago.
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[Dogs bay and bark]
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Today, this seal isn't for the humans.
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It's destined for the hunter's pack of dogs
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that brought him out to the floe edge.
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The meat is so rich and nutritious
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that it will keep the dogs fed for days.
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Finally, the Polar bear
has succeeded in getting a seal.
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00:19:28,973 --> 00:19:34,178
But he's gone about it
in a most unusual way.
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He's found the leftovers
of the dogs' dinner...
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[Dogs whine, bark]
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Much to their distress.
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[Dogs howl and bark]
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He has to build up enough fat reserves
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to last throughout the summer,
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as hunting will become much harder
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when the sea ice melts.
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[Dogs barking]
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A mother and two yearling cubs
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arrive at the foot of cliffs
near the floe edge.
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She's skinny
and desperately needs food.
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The thousands of murres
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who are starting to nest
on narrow cliff ledges
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have caught her attention.
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00:20:57,061 --> 00:21:00,565
The hungry mother heads up
the cliff to investigate,
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taking one cub with her.
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00:21:12,844 --> 00:21:14,112
Later in the year,
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the bears will feast
on murre eggs and chicks,
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but right now,
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the adult birds
are just too hard to reach.
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00:21:28,025 --> 00:21:30,294
The second cub, still on the ice,
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00:21:30,294 --> 00:21:33,564
gets lucky when it finds an injured murre.
215
00:21:33,564 --> 00:21:37,868
This makes for a small
but much-needed meal.
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00:21:40,671 --> 00:21:43,841
Up at the top of the cliff,
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the mother and cub
aren't getting anywhere.
218
00:21:49,013 --> 00:21:52,316
The cub resorts to eating moss.
219
00:22:00,825 --> 00:22:04,962
The lone cub catches up
with the rest of the family...
220
00:22:15,740 --> 00:22:19,076
And they are happily reunited.
221
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[♪]
222
00:22:39,330 --> 00:22:44,735
And on snow, what goes up must slide down.
223
00:23:06,791 --> 00:23:12,863
At the bottom, their interest
in the murres finally pays off.
224
00:23:12,863 --> 00:23:17,034
The mother is able to feed as well.
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00:23:20,938 --> 00:23:22,206
She needs to eat
226
00:23:22,206 --> 00:23:26,911
as she is still providing milk
for the cubs.
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00:23:50,901 --> 00:23:53,270
This tight family unit will stay together
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00:23:53,271 --> 00:23:56,040
until next year,
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00:23:56,040 --> 00:24:00,278
and then the cubs will head off
and fend for themselves.
230
00:24:09,954 --> 00:24:11,889
As spring continues,
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00:24:11,889 --> 00:24:17,194
the sea ice starts to break up.
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00:24:17,194 --> 00:24:18,762
Even for the Inuit,
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00:24:18,763 --> 00:24:20,998
who know this ice better than anyone,
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00:24:20,998 --> 00:24:23,767
the ice is much more unpredictable now
235
00:24:23,768 --> 00:24:26,104
than in years past.
236
00:24:33,210 --> 00:24:37,981
The dogs can sense the thickness
and stability of the ice
237
00:24:37,982 --> 00:24:39,517
through their paws,
238
00:24:39,517 --> 00:24:44,355
and so offer more protection
than riding on a snowmobile.
239
00:25:17,388 --> 00:25:21,125
Gradually, the speed
of the break-up accelerates.
240
00:25:21,125 --> 00:25:23,194
Life for those who depend on the ice
241
00:25:23,194 --> 00:25:26,130
becomes more precarious.
242
00:25:26,130 --> 00:25:28,366
[Splashing]
243
00:25:46,417 --> 00:25:50,454
With rising temperatures,
the fragmentation continues
244
00:25:50,454 --> 00:25:53,958
and creates long passages
between ice sheets
245
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called leads.
246
00:26:03,534 --> 00:26:05,236
The magical narwhal,
247
00:26:05,236 --> 00:26:08,038
with its spiralled elongated tooth,
248
00:26:08,038 --> 00:26:11,942
have been waiting for this moment.
249
00:26:17,448 --> 00:26:19,250
With no dorsal fin,
250
00:26:19,250 --> 00:26:24,889
they are perfectly adapted to the Arctic.
251
00:26:24,889 --> 00:26:28,159
They can dive under
and between the ice
252
00:26:28,159 --> 00:26:33,397
the moment it begins to break up.
253
00:26:33,397 --> 00:26:35,866
They are heading up long inlets
254
00:26:35,866 --> 00:26:40,304
to find a safe place to raise their calves.
255
00:26:45,376 --> 00:26:47,111
This break-up signals
256
00:26:47,111 --> 00:26:51,582
the start of the short
but intense Arctic summer.
257
00:27:13,454 --> 00:27:14,989
Each summer,
258
00:27:14,989 --> 00:27:18,893
the Arctic landscape is transformed.
259
00:27:18,893 --> 00:27:23,097
More than half
of all the Arctic sea ice melts.
260
00:27:28,936 --> 00:27:32,206
And now it's disappearing
at a faster rate
261
00:27:32,206 --> 00:27:36,343
than anyone could imagine.
262
00:27:36,343 --> 00:27:37,911
We still don't know
263
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how these changes
will affect the life here.
264
00:27:44,185 --> 00:27:47,054
Although walrus use ice
to rest on,
265
00:27:47,054 --> 00:27:51,392
they also love to bask on rocks
in the summer sun.
266
00:27:55,196 --> 00:27:57,998
Walrus are bottom feeders.
267
00:27:57,998 --> 00:27:59,900
They shoot water from their mouths
268
00:27:59,900 --> 00:28:02,136
to excavate clams.
269
00:28:02,136 --> 00:28:03,804
Sensitive bristles
270
00:28:03,804 --> 00:28:06,440
help find them in the muddy seabed,
271
00:28:06,440 --> 00:28:11,145
then they suck them out
with their huge rubbery lips.
272
00:28:24,258 --> 00:28:28,462
The summer's heat also triggers
a massive change inland,
273
00:28:28,462 --> 00:28:31,198
on the tundra.
274
00:28:38,105 --> 00:28:39,840
As the snow melts,
275
00:28:39,840 --> 00:28:43,277
female caribou migrate
hundreds of kilometres
276
00:28:43,277 --> 00:28:46,514
to their calving grounds
in the far north.
277
00:28:51,051 --> 00:28:53,186
More than half of all the females
278
00:28:53,187 --> 00:28:56,524
will give birth
within a few days of each other.
279
00:29:00,494 --> 00:29:04,198
It's called "predator swamping."
280
00:29:22,182 --> 00:29:25,485
This year, the summer melt
has come early,
281
00:29:25,486 --> 00:29:31,191
so the river current is strong.
282
00:29:31,191 --> 00:29:33,226
The soft snow makes it hard
283
00:29:33,227 --> 00:29:37,198
for the pregnant caribou to get out.
284
00:29:50,077 --> 00:29:53,314
But caribou are some
of the most resilient animals
285
00:29:53,314 --> 00:29:56,050
on earth.
286
00:30:10,297 --> 00:30:13,000
On one of the longest days
of the year,
287
00:30:13,000 --> 00:30:16,003
the mothers start to give birth.
288
00:30:16,003 --> 00:30:17,872
[Caribou snorts]
289
00:30:19,606 --> 00:30:24,177
Within minutes, the newborn calf
is up on its feet.
290
00:30:32,252 --> 00:30:36,556
Within hours, he can walk well.
291
00:30:44,331 --> 00:30:47,267
And within days, he can keep up
with his mother
292
00:30:47,267 --> 00:30:50,937
over long distances.
293
00:31:21,101 --> 00:31:24,004
Fresh green vegetation
grows vigorously
294
00:31:24,004 --> 00:31:27,541
with the 24-hour sunlight,
295
00:31:27,541 --> 00:31:29,510
and gives the mother the energy
296
00:31:29,510 --> 00:31:33,047
to produce rich milk.
297
00:31:37,317 --> 00:31:39,286
Today, across the Arctic,
298
00:31:39,286 --> 00:31:43,056
caribou numbers are falling dramatically.
299
00:31:43,056 --> 00:31:46,526
Their finely tuned body clocks
are out of sync
300
00:31:46,527 --> 00:31:51,298
with the variability
of the seasons now.
301
00:31:54,201 --> 00:31:57,037
At the height of this most productive time,
302
00:31:57,037 --> 00:32:02,976
they share the tundra
with many other species.
303
00:32:02,976 --> 00:32:04,511
But with no trees,
304
00:32:04,511 --> 00:32:06,546
nesting birds are vulnerable
305
00:32:06,547 --> 00:32:10,951
to predators like the Arctic fox.
306
00:32:36,410 --> 00:32:40,047
Canada geese make themselves
big and threatening.
307
00:32:51,258 --> 00:32:55,429
But the fox is not
actually after the birds.
308
00:33:09,643 --> 00:33:11,311
The fox buries the egg,
309
00:33:11,311 --> 00:33:16,583
knowing that harder times lie ahead.
310
00:33:16,583 --> 00:33:21,021
It can return to the exact spot
at any time for a ready meal
311
00:33:21,021 --> 00:33:26,193
when there's less easy prey about.
312
00:33:26,193 --> 00:33:27,594
In the Arctic,
313
00:33:27,594 --> 00:33:30,063
it's all about reaping the rewards
314
00:33:30,063 --> 00:33:33,767
when they are on offer.
315
00:33:33,767 --> 00:33:36,103
It's harder for some Arctic animals
316
00:33:36,103 --> 00:33:38,272
to adapt to their changing world
317
00:33:38,272 --> 00:33:41,408
than others.
318
00:33:41,408 --> 00:33:43,577
As the ice season gets shorter,
319
00:33:43,577 --> 00:33:48,715
Polar bears have less time to hunt.
320
00:33:48,715 --> 00:33:51,117
During the longer, warmer summers,
321
00:33:51,118 --> 00:33:56,657
their metabolism slows
right down to conserve energy.
322
00:34:01,728 --> 00:34:04,531
Some bears that didn't catch enough seals
323
00:34:04,531 --> 00:34:08,602
eat seaweed to fill their stomachs.
324
00:34:12,339 --> 00:34:19,346
Others pluck individual berries
off thorny bushes...
325
00:34:19,346 --> 00:34:21,214
But these are slim pickings
326
00:34:21,214 --> 00:34:23,483
and provide nowhere near
enough calories
327
00:34:23,483 --> 00:34:25,752
for the bears.
328
00:34:30,457 --> 00:34:33,627
What they need is fat and protein,
329
00:34:33,627 --> 00:34:36,130
and that means they must hunt.
330
00:34:40,133 --> 00:34:42,736
A few ingenious bears in Northern Québec
331
00:34:42,736 --> 00:34:46,139
have learned that Arctic char
can be found here
332
00:34:46,139 --> 00:34:49,142
at this time of the year.
333
00:34:51,211 --> 00:34:54,414
The fish can't survive
in the icy winter ocean,
334
00:34:54,414 --> 00:34:57,884
so they all return inland
before it gets too cold.
335
00:35:27,214 --> 00:35:29,616
And this gives the waiting Polar bears
336
00:35:29,616 --> 00:35:32,586
a chance to catch them.
337
00:35:37,224 --> 00:35:41,261
Polar bears hunt best
in and around ice.
338
00:35:41,261 --> 00:35:44,297
They need a new strategy here.
339
00:35:44,297 --> 00:35:46,466
And unlike grizzly bears,
340
00:35:46,466 --> 00:35:51,204
this kind of chase doesn't seem
to come easy to them.
341
00:36:36,283 --> 00:36:41,622
At last, this bear gets a meal
with some protein.
342
00:36:46,626 --> 00:36:49,762
But for the Polar bears
that stayed at the coast,
343
00:36:49,763 --> 00:36:53,667
the ice can't return fast enough.
344
00:37:07,932 --> 00:37:09,499
At the height of summer
345
00:37:09,499 --> 00:37:11,034
in the Canadian Arctic,
346
00:37:11,034 --> 00:37:14,738
thousands of beluga whales
head to somerset island
347
00:37:14,738 --> 00:37:17,841
for a seasonal get-together.
348
00:37:23,413 --> 00:37:24,514
Like the narwhal,
349
00:37:24,514 --> 00:37:27,984
they're adapted
for a life in the Arctic.
350
00:37:27,984 --> 00:37:31,354
They don't have a dorsal fin,
351
00:37:31,354 --> 00:37:33,857
and they have a huge amount
of blubber,
352
00:37:33,857 --> 00:37:37,427
up to 50% of their body weight.
353
00:37:43,200 --> 00:37:45,703
But they haven't come here to feed.
354
00:37:45,802 --> 00:37:49,806
They are here for the equivalent
of a health spa.
355
00:37:49,806 --> 00:37:53,977
This shallow estuary contains
a mix of fresh and sea water
356
00:37:53,977 --> 00:37:56,079
which is warmer than the open ocean.
357
00:37:56,079 --> 00:38:00,550
The water and gravel allow them
to have a body scrub,
358
00:38:00,550 --> 00:38:04,721
which helps get rid
of their old skin.
359
00:38:33,350 --> 00:38:36,119
They appear to love it.
360
00:39:21,064 --> 00:39:25,869
But beluga can't relax too much.
361
00:39:27,904 --> 00:39:29,439
They face new threats
362
00:39:29,439 --> 00:39:33,610
caused by the changing summer conditions.
363
00:39:33,610 --> 00:39:36,813
[Blowing]
364
00:39:36,813 --> 00:39:39,649
Killer whales have
traditionally found it hard
365
00:39:39,649 --> 00:39:41,518
to hunt in the Arctic
366
00:39:41,518 --> 00:39:44,087
because of their massive dorsal fin,
367
00:39:44,087 --> 00:39:47,857
which can be taller
than an adult human.
368
00:39:47,857 --> 00:39:50,860
They aren't able to travel far
under the sea ice
369
00:39:50,860 --> 00:39:53,496
because of their dorsal fin,
370
00:39:53,496 --> 00:39:55,098
which interferes with their ability
371
00:39:55,098 --> 00:39:57,734
to surface and breathe.
372
00:39:57,734 --> 00:40:00,103
But as more of the sea ice is melting,
373
00:40:00,103 --> 00:40:04,541
they appear to be increasing in number,
374
00:40:04,541 --> 00:40:06,109
coming in from the atlantic
375
00:40:06,109 --> 00:40:11,681
to hunt large marine mammals
like beluga and narwhal.
376
00:40:11,681 --> 00:40:13,583
[Blowing]
377
00:40:17,954 --> 00:40:19,989
Many feel they are fast becoming
378
00:40:19,990 --> 00:40:24,194
the Polar region's top new predator.
379
00:40:33,236 --> 00:40:37,040
Although Polar bears can swim
vast distances,
380
00:40:37,040 --> 00:40:42,178
hunting in an ice-free ocean
is virtually impossible.
381
00:40:52,822 --> 00:40:56,159
We now know that the sea ice
will be gone in the summer
382
00:40:56,159 --> 00:40:59,562
within a few decades.
383
00:41:11,107 --> 00:41:12,175
For so long,
384
00:41:12,175 --> 00:41:16,713
the far north of Canada
was a stable haven
385
00:41:16,713 --> 00:41:18,581
for the animals that were adapted
386
00:41:18,581 --> 00:41:21,818
to life in the extreme cold.
387
00:41:33,163 --> 00:41:37,133
And it seemed to be a place
too vast and too extreme
388
00:41:37,133 --> 00:41:41,671
to be affected dramatically by people.
389
00:41:47,877 --> 00:41:54,684
But that didn't turn out
to be the case.
390
00:41:54,684 --> 00:41:57,887
From a distance, and unintentionally,
391
00:41:57,887 --> 00:42:00,757
humans have triggered
the massive changes
392
00:42:00,757 --> 00:42:04,060
now underway here.
393
00:42:14,237 --> 00:42:18,141
The future is uncertain
in an Arctic landscape
394
00:42:18,141 --> 00:42:19,642
that is undergoing
395
00:42:19,642 --> 00:42:23,045
some of the most
intense and rapid fluctuations
396
00:42:23,046 --> 00:42:27,083
in the history of the planet.
397
00:42:28,852 --> 00:42:31,287
Ever since the melting
of the continental ice sheet
398
00:42:31,287 --> 00:42:34,791
began 15,000 years ago,
399
00:42:34,791 --> 00:42:36,960
animals and humans alike
400
00:42:36,960 --> 00:42:42,699
have shaped the landscapes
of Canada.
401
00:42:42,699 --> 00:42:46,069
And humans continue to play
a defining role,
402
00:42:46,069 --> 00:42:49,072
although the speed and scale
of our influence
403
00:42:49,072 --> 00:42:52,309
is accelerating.
404
00:42:55,278 --> 00:42:58,815
Canada's unique natural history
has created
405
00:42:58,815 --> 00:43:03,119
one of the richest and most
beautiful countries on earth...
406
00:43:06,089 --> 00:43:12,095
And one that, at least for now,
remains surprisingly wild.
407
00:43:18,968 --> 00:43:22,004
[♪]
30350
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