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(playful xylophone music)
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- [Voiceover] Ladies and
gentlemen, Marc Jacobs.
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- Hello
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00:00:16,297 --> 00:00:17,341
- [Man] We're in that truck.
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- [Marc] That's the truck?
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00:00:18,666 --> 00:00:20,549
- [Voiceover] Marc
Jacobs in pigeon disguise
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for his end of year New York party,
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forced to ride in a truck,
as his costume is so huge,
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it won't fit into any car.
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00:00:26,639 --> 00:00:28,861
But, that epitomizes
a whole state of mind,
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that of the most influential
American fashion designer
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00:00:31,065 --> 00:00:31,901
of his generation.
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- [Crowd] Hi!
- Hello
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(classical music)
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- [Voiceover] The theme
of the party is Venice.
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Anyone not in costume, is not allowed in.
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The doors open at 8 pm
sharp, and close at 8:15.
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It's fun, but serious fun.
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The whole of New York
has fought for invites,
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to this now legendary party,
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in the great French
tradition of mask wearing
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fashion designers like
Jacques Fath, or Paul Poiret.
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A somewhat overblown party,
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because Marc Jacobs
has been walking on air
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since he became artistic
director with Louis Vuitton,
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and helped transform
the French luggage maker
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into the most profitable
luxury business ever.
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(ominous sounds overlying classical music)
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(parade fanfare music)
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- [Voiceover] Store openings
have become the new premieres.
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A movie can be a flop,
but not a store opening.
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When Louis Vuitton
re-opened his flagship store
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on the Champs-Élysées in Paris,
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undenied rumor had it that
the megalomaniac amount
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spent on renovating the
building had been amortized
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in just one month.
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- If we didn't love
fashion, we'd be naked.
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- [Voiceover] Luxury today means reckoning
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with the world's market leader.
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The LVMH Group, uniting
over 60 different brands
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of clothing, champagne,
watches, and leather goods,
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and its golden goose,
accounting for half of it sales
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is Louis Vuitton, a genre model,
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it's most emblematic and profitable brand
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with its 19th century monogram,
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a yearly turnover of
several billion Euros,
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hundreds of stores worldwide,
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and for each new opening,
endless queues of diehards,
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ready to shower the shop assistants
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with bank notes.
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(energetic instrumental music)
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The man at the heart
of the Vuitton miracle
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is Bernard Arnault, the business
man who bought the brand
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in 1989 and transformed it into
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an international giant on the up.
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He's the richest man in France,
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but also something of an enigma.
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His boldest decision was to appoint
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a young, independent, and
unpredictable American designer
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as Artistic Director of Vuitton,
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inventor of grunge, Marc Jacobs.
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- [Voiceover] Vuitton's
specialty is leather bags.
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Yet, as I look at the model's hands
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during his first March
'98 fashion show reveals,
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Marc had sought of forgotten something.
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- [Voiceover] Yet, it wasn't
long before he'd given
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the bags a makeover,
transforming them every season
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while remaining faithful
to Vuitton craftsmanship.
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He's incredibly popular, and seems to live
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in a whirlwind of stars.
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- Look at us, what a
motley crew we are, huh?
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- [Voiceover] Here's the
first row at a Vuitton show.
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Jade Jagger, Ludivine Sangnier,
Diane Kruger, Winona Ryder,
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the singer Eve, Wes
Anderson, Marilyn Manson,
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stripper Dita Von Tees,
painter Elizabeth Peyton,
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Japanese artist, Takashi Murakami.
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On the next block, Vuitton
boss, Yves Carcelle,
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Salma Hayek, Alexander Payne,
Misses Deneuve and Thurman,
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Mr. & Mrs Arnault, Sharon
Stone, Pharrell Williams,
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Gillian Anderson, the
French Minister of Trade,
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one Spanish Duke, and
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the Minister of the Economy's wife, phew!
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But to understand what lies
behind this creativeness
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one must access Marc
Jacobs, the only problem is
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Marc Jacobs cannot be
filmed, he's off limits.
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He's very straight up in interviews,
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yet has never allowed a camera
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to look at his creative process.
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- [Marc] No, no, no, no, no.
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- [Woman] Anyone not doing
hair and makeup, get out!
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00:05:06,371 --> 00:05:07,927
- [Voiceover] About to give up after years
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of trying to approach him to no avail,
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we noticed a chink in the
armor, Camille Miceli,
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a key member of his inner circle,
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artistic advisor to
Marc Jacobs at Vuitton,
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she also designs jewelry that seems
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to drive Naomi Campbell crazy,
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and organizes the shows.
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- Camille said we're not on the list.
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- [Voiceover] It so
happened that her mother,
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Dominique Miceli could get
us access to this "in-crowd."
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- I love your daughter so much,
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and I love her mom,
and I love her brother,
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so the Miceli family for me, it's like ...
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As long as I have you
guys in my life, I'm okay.
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- [Voiceover] So, we took her
on as our guide and chaperone,
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and she got is in everywhere.
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New York, Tokyo, London, Paris,
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introducing us to close
friends and collaborators.
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- I'm not sure about
- [Dominique] Allo
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- Something like that, but
- [Dominique] Ah, d'accord!
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- [Voiceover] Okay, she
did speak a little loud
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on the phone sometimes during
interviews, but she was nice.
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We started filming with
a skeleton crew of three.
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Dominique, a sound
engineer, and a cameraman.
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- That's Louis.
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- I think every shoot should be like this.
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- [Man] Yeah?
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- Yeah, it feels so much ...you don't need
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more than three people.
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- This is all being
documented for French TV
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so everyone on their best behavior please.
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- [Voiceover] Like we said,
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Marc Jacobs works for two labels,
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his own based in New York,
and Louis Vuitton in Paris.
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- Louis Vuitton Paris would be like this.
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And then Marc Jacobs
Paris would be like this.
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(laugh)
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Or like this.
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- [Voiceover] Marc Jacobs
set up his own label
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when he was 20, with faithful
associate Robert Duffy,
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always by his side, through good and bad,
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and of course during the
negotiations with Vuitton.
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Robert Duffy of the wide open shirt collar
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is behind his champion night and day.
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He's the one who oragnizes
the zany end of year parties.
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Marc Jacobs is a bucker
of trends par excellence.
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He's afraid of nothing.
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- There's my ass.
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- [Voiceover] One of his
brands is called Stinky Rat,
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and its logo is a stinky rat.
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00:07:04,699 --> 00:07:06,766
In his window displays,
he's taken a political stand
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against his government,
and the war in Iraq.
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He's done everything
a marketing consultant
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would urge one not to
do with a luxury brand,
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yet his stores are full,
with an average spend
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per customer of over $3,000,
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according to in-house statistics.
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- [Announcer] Mister Marc Jacobs!
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- [Crowd] Hey!
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- [Voiceover] He's won a ton of awards,
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but keeps a level head.
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- [Interviewer] That's
important for fashion
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right now, don't you think?
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- I don't know, "important" and "fashion"
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shouldn't be used in the same sentence.
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(crowd screams)
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- [Voiceover] Never coy, he's always up
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for a bit of star play,
and if a photographer
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asks him to scream his head off
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with his friends and crew
for an hour, he'll do it.
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(crowd screams)
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- So sky is the limit.
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(upbeat rock music)
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- [Voiceover] Before
catching the preparations
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for the Vuitton show in Paris,
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we were told we could film the buildup
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to his own show in New York.
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"Come at ten, you'll get to
see Marc Jacobs at work."
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So, off we went, to the
heart of the hippest area,
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where on the intercom we noticed
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it was just above a poet's circle.
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Eighth floor, here we are.
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There he is.
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- Look!
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- [Voiceover] A portrait of Sofia Coppola
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by Elizabeth Peyton on the wall,
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and on the desk, seven CFDA trophies,
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the US fashion Oscars.
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- [Man] Breakfast?
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- Protein bar, yeah.
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- [Man] A protein bar?
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So, we should try a nice version
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of that pocket shape, right?
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And, fix the fly.
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00:08:52,670 --> 00:08:55,571
I think we should try the heavier thread.
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- [Voiceover] This is the inner sanctum.
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No one has ever filmed here,
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and especially not this,
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the elaboration of Marc Jacobs'
collection as it happens.
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He cuts fabric on the floor,
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cobbles together pants that would be
193
00:09:07,030 --> 00:09:08,659
on the catwalk one week later.
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This is it, in the making.
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00:09:10,649 --> 00:09:12,567
And at last, we're in.
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He even lets us film him ironing.
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- Making a documentary.
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- [Woman] Really?
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00:09:16,881 --> 00:09:17,714
- Uh-Hmm.
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00:09:17,714 --> 00:09:18,630
- [Woman] Oh good.
201
00:09:18,630 --> 00:09:20,526
- We have it good.
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00:09:20,526 --> 00:09:21,425
- [Voiceover] So how does
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00:09:21,425 --> 00:09:24,108
the Marc Jacobs machine actually work?
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From this moment on, we'd
be able to observe it.
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00:09:27,188 --> 00:09:31,355
(classical music and electronic mix)
206
00:09:35,465 --> 00:09:38,591
In the room that night,
were Joseph and Shelly.
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00:09:38,591 --> 00:09:40,193
Shelly is the cabin model.
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Tattooed all over, she fits
clothes all night long.
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00:09:44,433 --> 00:09:47,081
Standing on 15-inch
heels for hours on end,
210
00:09:47,081 --> 00:09:51,180
her main concern is to
keep her blood circulating.
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00:09:51,180 --> 00:09:54,597
(electronic music plays)
212
00:09:57,238 --> 00:09:59,257
- Oh, sorry Shell.
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00:09:59,257 --> 00:10:03,424
(classical music and electronic mix)
214
00:10:07,810 --> 00:10:09,618
- Your shoulders are the perfect shoulder.
215
00:10:09,618 --> 00:10:10,951
- Small? They're small?
216
00:10:10,951 --> 00:10:11,784
- Yeah.
217
00:10:11,784 --> 00:10:13,020
- Ants could dance on my shoulders.
218
00:10:13,020 --> 00:10:16,124
- I think it's more desirable in a woman.
219
00:10:16,124 --> 00:10:17,633
- [Voiceover] Joseph is the body and soul,
220
00:10:17,633 --> 00:10:19,622
totally devoted assistant.
221
00:10:19,622 --> 00:10:21,564
- Oh my God Joseph, you look amazing now.
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00:10:21,564 --> 00:10:24,044
(laughter)
223
00:10:24,044 --> 00:10:25,982
- [Voiceover] Joseph, is
Marc Jacobs second eye,
224
00:10:25,982 --> 00:10:28,212
he can't do without him.
225
00:10:28,212 --> 00:10:29,045
- Joseph?
226
00:10:30,553 --> 00:10:31,386
Joseph?
227
00:10:33,770 --> 00:10:35,662
Where did he go?
228
00:10:35,662 --> 00:10:37,092
Anybody see Joseph?
229
00:10:37,092 --> 00:10:39,513
Where did Joseph go?
230
00:10:39,513 --> 00:10:41,662
I need to see Joseph, is Joseph available?
231
00:10:41,662 --> 00:10:42,822
Can he come out here.
232
00:10:42,822 --> 00:10:44,393
Oh, Joseph ...
233
00:10:44,393 --> 00:10:45,226
Joseph
234
00:10:45,226 --> 00:10:46,310
Joseph
235
00:10:46,310 --> 00:10:47,143
Joseph
236
00:10:47,143 --> 00:10:48,893
Where's Joseph?
237
00:10:48,893 --> 00:10:49,911
- [Voiceover] And when he finds him,
238
00:10:49,911 --> 00:10:51,169
he's over the moon.
239
00:10:51,169 --> 00:10:52,002
- Yay!
240
00:10:54,210 --> 00:10:55,710
Lots to do Joseph.
241
00:10:57,511 --> 00:10:59,031
It's gonna work.
242
00:10:59,031 --> 00:10:59,864
Well?
243
00:11:01,919 --> 00:11:02,752
Very nice.
244
00:11:03,690 --> 00:11:07,857
("Canon in D" by Johann Pachelbel)
245
00:11:13,228 --> 00:11:15,599
It's very caught in the seam isn't it?
246
00:11:15,599 --> 00:11:18,599
Maybe, it's weird period, let's see.
247
00:11:22,326 --> 00:11:23,848
What do you think ladies?
248
00:11:23,848 --> 00:11:25,157
(crowds makes approving noises)
249
00:11:25,157 --> 00:11:27,157
Of this creation?
250
00:11:27,157 --> 00:11:30,691
It's gonna be in white, with silver.
251
00:11:30,691 --> 00:11:32,131
- [Voiceover] He and
Joseph try out some roughs
252
00:11:32,131 --> 00:11:35,829
of dresses on Shelly, in
colors garish and disturbing.
253
00:11:35,829 --> 00:11:37,251
A vision that would only come clear
254
00:11:37,251 --> 00:11:40,084
the following week on the catwalk.
255
00:11:42,309 --> 00:11:46,476
("Canon in D" by Johann Pachelbel)
256
00:11:51,680 --> 00:11:53,429
The staff at Jacobs' New York workshop
257
00:11:53,429 --> 00:11:55,040
is unflinchingly faithful,
258
00:11:55,040 --> 00:11:57,181
many have been there since
the brand was created.
259
00:11:57,181 --> 00:11:58,480
They've known the ups and downs,
260
00:11:58,480 --> 00:12:01,141
the near bankruptcies, and
the many sleepless nights.
261
00:12:01,141 --> 00:12:02,989
- Usually, when we interview somebody
262
00:12:02,989 --> 00:12:05,891
we try to explain that the two weeks
263
00:12:05,891 --> 00:12:08,519
before the show, they
will not be sleeping.
264
00:12:08,519 --> 00:12:10,549
Maybe one hour, two hours a night.
265
00:12:10,549 --> 00:12:12,939
- So, we have to do fast.
266
00:12:12,939 --> 00:12:14,356
No time to sleep.
267
00:12:15,219 --> 00:12:17,039
- New people don't believe you.
268
00:12:17,039 --> 00:12:19,131
But, after one season, they believe you.
269
00:12:19,131 --> 00:12:23,298
- This is my a, let's see,
my 24th collection with Marc.
270
00:12:25,377 --> 00:12:27,973
- Some of them for like years, and years,
271
00:12:27,973 --> 00:12:29,556
like fifteen years.
272
00:12:31,084 --> 00:12:34,751
- I was in the army,
then I came to fashion.
273
00:12:36,865 --> 00:12:38,465
- Believe me, they're
not really very happy
274
00:12:38,465 --> 00:12:39,904
about it here but ...
275
00:12:39,904 --> 00:12:41,972
Everybody here works very
hard, but in America,
276
00:12:41,972 --> 00:12:45,323
this what we do, is work
... as Mohammed Ali said.
277
00:12:45,323 --> 00:12:46,883
- [Voiceover] But luckily
Marc Jacobs has a secret
278
00:12:46,883 --> 00:12:49,505
molecule to boost his troops morale.
279
00:12:49,505 --> 00:12:52,183
- Have some sugar, it'll keep you going.
280
00:12:52,183 --> 00:12:53,946
(crowd applauds and cheers)
281
00:12:53,946 --> 00:12:55,434
- [Voiceover] Sugar-doped
troops who it seems
282
00:12:55,434 --> 00:12:56,965
absolutely worship him.
283
00:12:56,965 --> 00:12:58,186
- How you doing?
284
00:12:58,186 --> 00:13:00,123
(offscreen beckoning noise)
285
00:13:00,123 --> 00:13:00,956
What?
286
00:13:02,164 --> 00:13:04,285
- I want you to sign my hat.
287
00:13:04,285 --> 00:13:05,118
- Okay
288
00:13:05,118 --> 00:13:05,951
- Please
289
00:13:05,951 --> 00:13:06,784
- Yeah
290
00:13:08,375 --> 00:13:09,365
Okay.
291
00:13:09,365 --> 00:13:12,775
(hip hop plays on radio)
292
00:13:12,775 --> 00:13:13,608
- Love it.
293
00:13:13,608 --> 00:13:14,503
- Good
294
00:13:14,503 --> 00:13:15,345
Enjoy!
295
00:13:15,345 --> 00:13:16,178
- Got it!
296
00:13:17,285 --> 00:13:19,236
- [Woman] What does it say?
297
00:13:19,236 --> 00:13:20,069
- Got it!
298
00:13:20,069 --> 00:13:21,633
- [Man] Oh wow.
299
00:13:21,633 --> 00:13:23,103
- Look everybody!
300
00:13:23,103 --> 00:13:24,965
- [Voiceover] The working
conditions are special.
301
00:13:24,965 --> 00:13:27,074
As they say here, we're family.
302
00:13:27,074 --> 00:13:27,917
- [Man] Go Ash, yeah.
303
00:13:27,917 --> 00:13:29,786
- Come on Ash, let's do the hustle.
304
00:13:29,786 --> 00:13:30,905
- The hustle bustle.
305
00:13:30,905 --> 00:13:32,165
(laugh)
306
00:13:32,165 --> 00:13:33,743
- You don't know how to do the hustle?
307
00:13:33,743 --> 00:13:34,619
- No, I do know how to
do the hustle bustle.
308
00:13:34,619 --> 00:13:35,788
- You're too young, c'mon.
309
00:13:35,788 --> 00:13:37,455
- I'm not too young to do the hustle ...
310
00:13:37,455 --> 00:13:39,497
- Do this, you to the slide thing.
311
00:13:39,497 --> 00:13:40,434
Follow me, don't be so stiff.
312
00:13:40,434 --> 00:13:42,297
- I can't do this ...
- Relax, relax, relax.
313
00:13:42,297 --> 00:13:44,238
- The whole company feels very like,
314
00:13:44,238 --> 00:13:45,617
like family atmosphere.
315
00:13:45,617 --> 00:13:48,067
Robert Duffy I think
makes a nice environment,
316
00:13:48,067 --> 00:13:50,427
and a lot of people have
worked there for a long time.
317
00:13:50,427 --> 00:13:52,769
So, I always feel very
at home when I go there.
318
00:13:52,769 --> 00:13:55,649
In any case, everybody
seems pretty relaxed.
319
00:13:55,649 --> 00:13:57,809
Like the models who come
for casting sessions,
320
00:13:57,809 --> 00:14:01,976
and who change in plain
view, unabashed all day long.
321
00:14:03,056 --> 00:14:05,217
Marc Jacobs works on two fronts.
322
00:14:05,217 --> 00:14:06,665
In New York for his own brand,
323
00:14:06,665 --> 00:14:08,707
and in Paris for Louis Vuitton.
324
00:14:08,707 --> 00:14:10,385
Obviously in the Vuitton building,
325
00:14:10,385 --> 00:14:11,706
things are not so homey.
326
00:14:11,706 --> 00:14:13,146
In this global company, you need
327
00:14:13,146 --> 00:14:15,329
a different badge for every door.
328
00:14:15,329 --> 00:14:17,649
At Vuitton too, something totally new,
329
00:14:17,649 --> 00:14:19,769
we'd be allowed to follow
over a period of months
330
00:14:19,769 --> 00:14:22,969
the creative process of Marc
Jacobs and his Paris teams,
331
00:14:22,969 --> 00:14:25,768
which began with an
attack of meeting-itis.
332
00:14:25,768 --> 00:14:27,198
- How are you today Loïc?
333
00:14:27,198 --> 00:14:28,815
- [Loïc] Alright, and you?
334
00:14:28,815 --> 00:14:30,365
- I'm super-fine.
335
00:14:30,365 --> 00:14:33,667
(energetic orchestral music)
336
00:14:33,667 --> 00:14:35,067
- [Voiceover] Of course,
we were dying to see
337
00:14:35,067 --> 00:14:37,467
and understand how Marc
Jacobs eye is nourished,
338
00:14:37,467 --> 00:14:40,884
how it adapts to a system like Vuitton's.
339
00:14:43,326 --> 00:14:45,504
He starts out with walls of inspiration.
340
00:14:45,504 --> 00:14:47,006
Everything gets posted there.
341
00:14:47,006 --> 00:14:49,635
Old magazine photos,
pretty freaky portraits,
342
00:14:49,635 --> 00:14:52,294
photocopies of tortured
bits of fabric, flowers.
343
00:14:52,294 --> 00:14:54,326
It all amounts to a sort of riddle.
344
00:14:54,326 --> 00:14:56,694
Half an idea here, a bit
of that spirit there.
345
00:14:56,694 --> 00:14:59,944
A whiff of this, a resemblance of that.
346
00:15:06,755 --> 00:15:08,104
During the Vuitton bag meetings,
347
00:15:08,104 --> 00:15:09,854
the technique is always the same.
348
00:15:09,854 --> 00:15:12,533
The team brainstorms
scores of proposal panels,
349
00:15:12,533 --> 00:15:14,663
samples, drawings and photographs.
350
00:15:14,663 --> 00:15:16,365
Of course, this is a laboratory,
351
00:15:16,365 --> 00:15:17,966
one where billions are made.
352
00:15:17,966 --> 00:15:19,742
With ideas in the making, which as yet,
353
00:15:19,742 --> 00:15:22,502
not patented, cannot be filmed.
354
00:15:22,502 --> 00:15:24,343
- Here there is different options.
355
00:15:24,343 --> 00:15:26,613
- That I would absolutely love to do,
356
00:15:26,613 --> 00:15:30,762
but I'm sure we would
have a lot of problems.
357
00:15:30,762 --> 00:15:32,782
- [Voiceover] Alligator
skin of every shade.
358
00:15:32,782 --> 00:15:34,632
Zany inventions that
will make the competition
359
00:15:34,632 --> 00:15:35,965
green with envy.
360
00:15:37,731 --> 00:15:41,731
- We've tried to to a new
texture, with leather.
361
00:15:42,672 --> 00:15:44,432
- [Voiceover] Also in the
making, new fasteners,
362
00:15:44,432 --> 00:15:47,080
new monograms, here, the unexpected rules.
363
00:15:47,080 --> 00:15:48,731
The quest for visual neologism.
364
00:15:48,731 --> 00:15:50,491
Is it ugly or beautiful?
365
00:15:50,491 --> 00:15:52,609
It's the eternal question of the new.
366
00:15:52,609 --> 00:15:54,836
- I mean, is it so
horrible, that it's good?
367
00:15:54,836 --> 00:15:55,739
(laugh)
368
00:15:55,739 --> 00:16:00,139
Maybe it's just so horrible,
that it's horrible.
369
00:16:00,139 --> 00:16:02,189
- [Voiceover] Dilemma is the watchword
370
00:16:02,189 --> 00:16:05,437
while one reflects and
awaits enlightenment.
371
00:16:05,437 --> 00:16:08,854
(tense electronic music)
372
00:16:23,203 --> 00:16:25,225
- That was the other
thing, what was I looking
373
00:16:25,225 --> 00:16:27,193
at the other day ... little bells.
374
00:16:27,193 --> 00:16:28,873
You know those pretty little bells
375
00:16:28,873 --> 00:16:31,527
like that look like Lily of the Valley,
376
00:16:31,527 --> 00:16:32,777
- [Group] Yes.
377
00:16:32,777 --> 00:16:34,227
That might be a nice thing to have,
378
00:16:34,227 --> 00:16:36,078
hanging from a bag, like little bells.
379
00:16:36,078 --> 00:16:36,975
- [Man] Yeah
- I like it.
380
00:16:36,975 --> 00:16:39,516
- Why did I think of that?
381
00:16:39,516 --> 00:16:41,036
- [Voiceover] Yet amidst
all this industry,
382
00:16:41,036 --> 00:16:44,645
there are also long periods
of meditative silence.
383
00:16:44,645 --> 00:16:48,812
(pop music plays in the background)
384
00:16:52,190 --> 00:16:54,480
Waiting for an angel to pass.
385
00:16:54,480 --> 00:16:55,837
In house legend has it,
386
00:16:55,837 --> 00:16:58,698
that such meetings are haunted by faeries.
387
00:16:58,698 --> 00:16:59,978
(whistling)
388
00:16:59,978 --> 00:17:01,458
(footsteps)
389
00:17:01,458 --> 00:17:03,958
(door creaks)
390
00:17:05,296 --> 00:17:06,717
- Bad faeries getting in here.
391
00:17:06,717 --> 00:17:07,578
(laughter)
392
00:17:07,578 --> 00:17:09,745
- [Woman] They're skyping.
393
00:17:16,587 --> 00:17:18,237
- [Voiceover] Yet, sometimes
these creative meetings
394
00:17:18,237 --> 00:17:20,597
are indeed haunted, by old dead clothes
395
00:17:20,597 --> 00:17:22,528
trying to come back to life.
396
00:17:22,528 --> 00:17:25,357
For example, that day, a dowdy
old mauve acrylic sweater
397
00:17:25,357 --> 00:17:27,058
is about to be raised from the dead,
398
00:17:27,058 --> 00:17:30,326
with a touch of Marc
Jacobs' healing hands.
399
00:17:30,326 --> 00:17:34,888
(hip hop music plays in the background)
400
00:17:34,888 --> 00:17:37,138
The sweater is sized up,
compared to other materials,
401
00:17:37,138 --> 00:17:38,178
other colors.
402
00:17:38,178 --> 00:17:40,011
A DNA sample is taken.
403
00:17:44,069 --> 00:17:45,778
And glory be, a few weeks later,
404
00:17:45,778 --> 00:17:47,509
our old mauve, acrylic sweater has become
405
00:17:47,509 --> 00:17:50,208
a young mauve, Marc
Jacobs cashmere sweater.
406
00:17:50,208 --> 00:17:52,088
And its rather plain pattern has been
407
00:17:52,088 --> 00:17:54,559
considerably refreshed in the process.
408
00:17:54,559 --> 00:17:57,392
(classical music)
409
00:18:04,327 --> 00:18:06,498
Louis Vuitton isn't exactly summer camp,
410
00:18:06,498 --> 00:18:08,327
the parents are around.
411
00:18:08,327 --> 00:18:10,137
There's a certain Bernard Arnault,
412
00:18:10,137 --> 00:18:12,818
a huge organization,
numerous marketing teams,
413
00:18:12,818 --> 00:18:15,719
and an omnipresent CEO, Yves Carcelle.
414
00:18:15,719 --> 00:18:17,477
Among other colossal play things,
415
00:18:17,477 --> 00:18:19,426
is a special room, where
hundreds of up and coming
416
00:18:19,426 --> 00:18:22,007
window displays are reproduced life-size,
417
00:18:22,007 --> 00:18:24,674
waiting for heavy duty approval.
418
00:19:01,898 --> 00:19:04,258
- [Voiceover] At Vuitton,
anything is possible,
419
00:19:04,258 --> 00:19:06,546
if you want to fly the
whole HQ staff and studio
420
00:19:06,546 --> 00:19:09,178
to Japan to stage an exact
remake of the earlier
421
00:19:09,178 --> 00:19:11,717
Paris show in a lunar
bubble built specially
422
00:19:11,717 --> 00:19:14,066
for the occasion on
the outskirts of Tokyo,
423
00:19:14,066 --> 00:19:15,316
then you do it.
424
00:19:36,039 --> 00:19:38,186
- [Man on PA] Can we get all the cameras
425
00:19:38,186 --> 00:19:39,936
in the dressing area!
426
00:19:44,371 --> 00:19:48,562
- [Man on PA] This is Alain
for everybody in queue eight.
427
00:19:48,562 --> 00:19:50,562
(drums)
428
00:19:52,280 --> 00:19:56,447
- [Alain on PA] I need 75
staff in the runway area.
429
00:20:00,821 --> 00:20:02,988
- [Alain on PA] Thank you.
430
00:20:06,261 --> 00:20:08,761
(opera music)
431
00:20:21,039 --> 00:20:23,405
- And the stone is going to be clean.
432
00:20:23,405 --> 00:20:24,954
So the woman with the heel,
433
00:20:24,954 --> 00:20:27,693
they just step like this, on the stone.
434
00:20:27,693 --> 00:20:28,943
They do a walk.
435
00:20:34,915 --> 00:20:36,471
Whoa
436
00:20:36,471 --> 00:20:38,231
Shall we continue?
437
00:20:38,231 --> 00:20:39,064
Allez
438
00:20:39,064 --> 00:20:40,709
- [Voiceover] The guest
list is a who's who
439
00:20:40,709 --> 00:20:42,337
of the Asia Pacific region.
440
00:20:42,337 --> 00:20:45,920
Singers, movie stars,
contemporary artists.
441
00:20:47,907 --> 00:20:49,709
- [Voiceover] Nothing is left to chance.
442
00:20:49,709 --> 00:20:52,128
Press agents have compiled
the outfit, bag, and shoes
443
00:20:52,128 --> 00:20:53,468
of each of their guests,
444
00:20:53,468 --> 00:20:55,579
so that no one will suffer
the supreme humiliation
445
00:20:55,579 --> 00:21:00,315
of wearing someone else's
precious unique piece.
446
00:21:00,315 --> 00:21:02,597
The models too are
identical to the Paris show.
447
00:21:02,597 --> 00:21:04,597
They've flown an average of 25 hours
448
00:21:04,597 --> 00:21:06,979
for about 27 seconds on the catwalk.
449
00:21:06,979 --> 00:21:10,339
But everyone here seems
to find that normal.
450
00:21:10,339 --> 00:21:12,517
It all seems really over the top.
451
00:21:12,517 --> 00:21:14,077
But, it's hard to believe
that so much money
452
00:21:14,077 --> 00:21:16,910
is being squandered to no purpose.
453
00:21:29,070 --> 00:21:30,699
- [Voiceover] And when the stars arrive,
454
00:21:30,699 --> 00:21:32,032
it's pure bliss.
455
00:21:32,032 --> 00:21:34,096
(joyful scream)
456
00:21:34,096 --> 00:21:36,235
No one is wearing the same
shoes, the same outfit,
457
00:21:36,235 --> 00:21:37,568
or the same bag.
458
00:21:39,425 --> 00:21:41,235
- [Interviewer] Are you excited?
459
00:21:41,235 --> 00:21:42,818
- Oh, very excited.
460
00:21:45,738 --> 00:21:47,765
- [Voiceover] Vuitton
boss Yves Carcelle greets
461
00:21:47,765 --> 00:21:49,932
LVMH boss Bernard Arnault.
462
00:21:56,381 --> 00:21:58,210
- [Reporter] Why did
you choose Tokyo to be
463
00:21:58,210 --> 00:21:59,929
the home of the show?
464
00:21:59,929 --> 00:22:01,300
- We stuck a pin on the map.
465
00:22:01,300 --> 00:22:02,620
(laughter)
466
00:22:02,620 --> 00:22:05,990
That's how we do things at
Louis Vuitton, totally random.
467
00:22:05,990 --> 00:22:07,220
(laughter)
468
00:22:07,220 --> 00:22:09,887
So random, we just throw a dart.
469
00:22:11,528 --> 00:22:12,361
- Oops
470
00:22:13,860 --> 00:22:15,649
- [Voiceover] The shoes,
the dresses, the bags,
471
00:22:15,649 --> 00:22:18,482
the stars, everything is in order.
472
00:22:19,940 --> 00:22:22,149
The show can begin.
473
00:22:22,149 --> 00:22:25,899
(intense instrumental music)
474
00:23:00,641 --> 00:23:02,990
And at last, Asia can
applaud the incredible,
475
00:23:02,990 --> 00:23:05,490
the one and only, Marc Jacobs.
476
00:23:14,070 --> 00:23:16,136
And now, it's party time.
477
00:23:16,136 --> 00:23:19,136
(disco dance music)
478
00:23:26,173 --> 00:23:29,013
The Emperor of Luxury
gives him the thumbs up,
479
00:23:29,013 --> 00:23:31,261
everyone clamors to get
photographed with him.
480
00:23:31,261 --> 00:23:33,101
This will be a night like no other.
481
00:23:33,101 --> 00:23:37,573
Fueled by a thousand
magnums of French champagne.
482
00:23:37,573 --> 00:23:40,573
(rapid Tabla music)
483
00:23:47,421 --> 00:23:50,838
(Scottish bagpipe music)
484
00:23:57,981 --> 00:24:00,440
While triumph and hysteria
reign the dance floor,
485
00:24:00,440 --> 00:24:02,352
a radiant Bernard Arnault gives a lecture
486
00:24:02,352 --> 00:24:05,392
on economic strategy, and
suddenly it all seems so simple.
487
00:24:05,392 --> 00:24:10,251
- We are the only company,
completely integrated,
488
00:24:10,251 --> 00:24:13,902
with product, produce,
everything in our ...
489
00:24:13,902 --> 00:24:15,513
(drowned by dance music)
490
00:24:15,513 --> 00:24:19,680
with our craftsmen, and we
sell only in our own shops.
491
00:24:20,833 --> 00:24:23,062
When the others, all the other brands,
492
00:24:23,062 --> 00:24:26,913
they do sell, and they
sell also wholesale.
493
00:24:26,913 --> 00:24:27,952
We don't do it.
494
00:24:27,952 --> 00:24:30,300
It's the reason why we do it so exclusive.
495
00:24:30,300 --> 00:24:33,309
It's the only brand in
the world that has ...
496
00:24:33,309 --> 00:24:34,902
(drowned by dance music)
497
00:24:34,902 --> 00:24:35,768
(Sottish bagpipe music)
498
00:24:35,768 --> 00:24:36,941
- [Voiceover] Usually,
there's nothing worse
499
00:24:36,941 --> 00:24:38,123
than these big corporate parties
500
00:24:38,123 --> 00:24:40,291
where snobs and shareholders
pretend to have fun.
501
00:24:40,291 --> 00:24:42,603
But here, the hippest in
town have all been invited,
502
00:24:42,603 --> 00:24:44,723
and genuine excitement,
mingled with jet lag,
503
00:24:44,723 --> 00:24:46,930
seems to be blending
into a working cocktail.
504
00:24:46,930 --> 00:24:48,651
Even Marc Jacobs is dancing.
505
00:24:48,651 --> 00:24:52,818
Everyone's letting rip, but
isn't that a flower pot?
506
00:24:56,725 --> 00:25:00,725
(singing in a foreign language)
507
00:25:03,491 --> 00:25:05,320
- [Voiceover] Yeah, you
have to throw parties
508
00:25:05,320 --> 00:25:07,661
and attend religious
ceremonies to bless new stores
509
00:25:07,661 --> 00:25:09,520
according to the local customs.
510
00:25:09,520 --> 00:25:13,489
(religious Japanese chanting)
511
00:25:13,489 --> 00:25:15,489
(claps)
512
00:25:26,023 --> 00:25:29,440
(Scottish bagpipe music)
513
00:25:31,941 --> 00:25:33,766
- [Voiceover] The crowd
drank, laughed and danced
514
00:25:33,766 --> 00:25:35,200
as if there was no tomorrow.
515
00:25:35,200 --> 00:25:37,774
But next day, Marc Jacobs
had to go back to Paris.
516
00:25:37,774 --> 00:25:41,691
(energetic instrumental music)
517
00:25:42,560 --> 00:25:43,951
- So excellent.
518
00:25:43,951 --> 00:25:45,039
- [Voiceover] From their trip to Japan,
519
00:25:45,039 --> 00:25:47,439
the Vuitton teams have brought
back kimono belts, of course,
520
00:25:47,439 --> 00:25:50,319
but also these books of dolls
that seem to be everywhere.
521
00:25:50,319 --> 00:25:52,319
Dolls with cutesy flowered headbands
522
00:25:52,319 --> 00:25:54,460
that will make their mark.
523
00:25:54,460 --> 00:25:58,700
(energetic instrumental music)
524
00:25:58,700 --> 00:26:02,867
Headbands whose flowers are
about to be aged and stressed.
525
00:26:20,018 --> 00:26:22,378
- [Voiceover] And when exploding
them won't do the trick,
526
00:26:22,378 --> 00:26:23,846
they're crushed until their beauty
527
00:26:23,846 --> 00:26:26,096
is unanimously agreed upon.
528
00:26:38,426 --> 00:26:41,346
- [Voiceover] Says she,
destroying flowers.
529
00:26:41,346 --> 00:26:43,763
- It's all about destruction.
530
00:26:47,314 --> 00:26:51,231
- [Voiceover] Much better!
- Ah oui la, parfait.
531
00:27:06,031 --> 00:27:10,198
- Maybe they can, when they
dip a little bit in tea.
532
00:27:12,850 --> 00:27:14,570
- [Voiceover] But there's worse than tea.
533
00:27:14,570 --> 00:27:15,850
Everything has to be bleached,
534
00:27:15,850 --> 00:27:20,017
including jewelry and embroidery
in baby baths on the roof.
535
00:27:36,741 --> 00:27:38,631
- [Voiceover] Only
problem is, bleach smells,
536
00:27:38,631 --> 00:27:40,631
and is highly corrosive.
537
00:28:00,981 --> 00:28:02,341
- [Voiceover] The quest
is for more or less
538
00:28:02,341 --> 00:28:04,421
random destruction,
because the idea of chaos
539
00:28:04,421 --> 00:28:06,109
interests Marc Jacobs.
540
00:28:06,109 --> 00:28:08,781
Chaos he plays with, draping
the model as he goes,
541
00:28:08,781 --> 00:28:10,571
or even with nothing to go on,
542
00:28:10,571 --> 00:28:11,988
no safety net whatsoever.
543
00:28:11,988 --> 00:28:13,500
- You can have a bit of this blouse,
544
00:28:13,500 --> 00:28:14,642
and a bit of a pin tuck.
545
00:28:14,642 --> 00:28:15,475
- Yeah
546
00:28:15,475 --> 00:28:16,308
- You can go there.
547
00:28:16,308 --> 00:28:17,141
- Yeah
548
00:28:18,743 --> 00:28:22,455
- Ivories of whatever, or
these things, you know,
549
00:28:22,455 --> 00:28:24,440
under those things.
- Yup
550
00:28:24,440 --> 00:28:25,516
- That looks nice.
551
00:28:25,516 --> 00:28:26,349
- Yeah
552
00:28:27,575 --> 00:28:29,364
- Maybe those can just be like shells
553
00:28:29,364 --> 00:28:32,564
or something more hard,
you know what I mean?
554
00:28:32,564 --> 00:28:34,874
Because the necklines
here are so romantic.
555
00:28:34,874 --> 00:28:39,434
Maybe that should be like just
chopped up like crew neck.
556
00:28:39,434 --> 00:28:40,267
- Yeah
557
00:28:41,434 --> 00:28:42,714
- [Voiceover] So a photograph is taken,
558
00:28:42,714 --> 00:28:44,164
and Marc Jacobs synthesizes his vision
559
00:28:44,164 --> 00:28:46,244
into a technical drawing
so the workshop staff
560
00:28:46,244 --> 00:28:47,654
can understand it.
561
00:28:47,654 --> 00:28:51,821
(contemplative instrumental music)
562
00:28:54,905 --> 00:28:57,294
This taste for cut and paste,
for chaotic choppiness,
563
00:28:57,294 --> 00:28:59,844
tends to rankle during bag meetings.
564
00:28:59,844 --> 00:29:03,145
By way of freeform cutting
into raw monogrammed canvas,
565
00:29:03,145 --> 00:29:04,865
the search for new shapes,
566
00:29:04,865 --> 00:29:07,036
the accumulation of old bags on the floor,
567
00:29:07,036 --> 00:29:10,134
a pocket retrospective of Marc
Jacobs' cult Vuitton bags,
568
00:29:10,134 --> 00:29:13,644
and a python patchwork
shoe, an idea emerges.
569
00:29:13,644 --> 00:29:17,144
That of a quasi cubist, mix-and-match bag.
570
00:29:18,174 --> 00:29:20,882
- Maybe, it'd be good to take,
571
00:29:20,882 --> 00:29:23,019
like the quilting we did do for the Fall,
572
00:29:23,019 --> 00:29:24,293
and do it in ivory.
573
00:29:24,293 --> 00:29:25,126
- Yeah
574
00:29:25,126 --> 00:29:26,780
- A bit of that for part of a bag,
575
00:29:26,780 --> 00:29:29,199
and put it with the new smocking thing,
576
00:29:29,199 --> 00:29:31,210
and put it with a denim, and put it with,
577
00:29:31,210 --> 00:29:33,439
maybe even see if we could change
578
00:29:33,439 --> 00:29:36,628
some of the graffiti-ed, a white on brown,
579
00:29:36,628 --> 00:29:39,010
and a bit of appliqué from Julian,
580
00:29:39,010 --> 00:29:42,298
you know, just like, kinda everything.
581
00:29:42,298 --> 00:29:43,396
- That would be good.
582
00:29:43,396 --> 00:29:45,058
- Could be.
583
00:29:45,058 --> 00:29:46,876
So it would be nice to see
all these things together,
584
00:29:46,876 --> 00:29:49,709
to see that we really can combine.
585
00:29:50,667 --> 00:29:52,368
- [Voiceover] Sometime
later, it becomes a muddle
586
00:29:52,368 --> 00:29:53,866
still far from approved.
587
00:29:53,866 --> 00:29:56,268
Of course, Marc Jacobs is
going to put his spoke in.
588
00:29:56,268 --> 00:29:58,008
A lot of spokes.
589
00:29:58,008 --> 00:30:00,570
- But maybe it should go this way.
590
00:30:00,570 --> 00:30:03,258
- [Woman] Yup.
- What about like this?
591
00:30:03,258 --> 00:30:04,308
And chopped.
592
00:30:04,308 --> 00:30:06,308
- I think it's too much.
593
00:30:07,574 --> 00:30:10,074
Maybe we outta tape like that.
594
00:30:13,335 --> 00:30:14,845
- [Voiceover] We also witnessed the birth
595
00:30:14,845 --> 00:30:18,237
of new shoes, with Frabrizio
Viti, the house shoe stylist.
596
00:30:18,237 --> 00:30:19,554
We'd all already met him in Tokyo.
597
00:30:19,554 --> 00:30:23,273
(Scottish bagpipe music)
598
00:30:23,273 --> 00:30:25,301
He starts out with a men's shoe.
599
00:30:25,301 --> 00:30:26,863
A disco man's shoe.
600
00:30:26,863 --> 00:30:28,284
- So we thought that maybe the only place
601
00:30:28,284 --> 00:30:30,641
where we can still find
issues is very base.
602
00:30:30,641 --> 00:30:32,702
- [Voiceover] A Glam disco man's shoe.
603
00:30:32,702 --> 00:30:35,105
- Very, very bad taste man's shoes.
604
00:30:35,105 --> 00:30:37,855
- [Voiceover] A high
heeled Glam disco shoe.
605
00:30:37,855 --> 00:30:39,415
We're between two minds.
606
00:30:39,415 --> 00:30:41,047
Some models look pretty funky.
607
00:30:41,047 --> 00:30:44,464
(funky electronic music)
608
00:30:51,398 --> 00:30:53,065
When suddenly ...
609
00:30:53,065 --> 00:30:55,984
- You have more like this kind of a thing?
610
00:30:55,984 --> 00:30:58,817
(pencil on paper)
611
00:31:06,226 --> 00:31:07,950
- [Woman] Yeah, oui.
612
00:31:07,950 --> 00:31:09,601
- There's a hole inside.
- Yeah, and wrapped like that.
613
00:31:09,601 --> 00:31:10,934
Yeah, of course.
614
00:31:12,325 --> 00:31:14,641
- [Voiceover] And bingo, a few weeks later
615
00:31:14,641 --> 00:31:18,808
the boxes arrived from the
Vuitton workshops in Italy.
616
00:31:19,735 --> 00:31:22,459
(crinkly paper unfolds)
617
00:31:22,459 --> 00:31:24,209
- Ooh, the green one.
618
00:31:25,121 --> 00:31:26,832
- [Voiceover] Not in the least masculine.
619
00:31:26,832 --> 00:31:27,693
But as a starting point,
620
00:31:27,693 --> 00:31:30,943
it was a necessary, if throwaway, step.
621
00:31:31,813 --> 00:31:34,063
- [Woman] Oh, look at that!
622
00:31:35,966 --> 00:31:38,186
- [Voiceover] Yet, one
unexpected production hitch,
623
00:31:38,186 --> 00:31:40,636
is that the metal heels
turn out to be really heavy,
624
00:31:40,636 --> 00:31:43,546
and cannot be modified before the show.
625
00:31:43,546 --> 00:31:45,306
- You walk down the
runway, and you'll have
626
00:31:45,306 --> 00:31:46,928
like legs like Arnold
Schwarzenegger in this
627
00:31:46,928 --> 00:31:48,329
by the time you get back.
628
00:31:48,329 --> 00:31:52,079
(energetic electronic music)
629
00:31:53,895 --> 00:31:55,403
- [Voiceover] In New
York too, we were there
630
00:31:55,403 --> 00:31:57,833
when the boxes for the Marc
Jacobs' label were opened.
631
00:31:57,833 --> 00:31:59,695
And each one held a surprise,
632
00:31:59,695 --> 00:32:01,975
paper flowers made by
feather maker Le Marielle,
633
00:32:01,975 --> 00:32:04,243
from American sandwich wrapping.
634
00:32:04,243 --> 00:32:05,076
- This, I love these.
635
00:32:05,076 --> 00:32:07,176
The French butcher paper.
636
00:32:07,176 --> 00:32:11,086
- [Voiceover] Others cut into
French butcher shop paper.
637
00:32:11,086 --> 00:32:13,116
- C'est joli non?
638
00:32:13,116 --> 00:32:16,033
C'est le boucherie 110 rue dans ...
639
00:32:19,236 --> 00:32:21,127
Oh the French, boy do they know
640
00:32:21,127 --> 00:32:23,356
how to make beautiful flowers.
641
00:32:23,356 --> 00:32:25,044
- [Voiceover] Because
this mix of rich and poor,
642
00:32:25,044 --> 00:32:26,615
ugly and beautiful, twee and twisted,
643
00:32:26,615 --> 00:32:28,433
is a Marc Jacobs obsession.
644
00:32:28,433 --> 00:32:29,683
- Yeah, tragic.
645
00:32:30,653 --> 00:32:33,486
(hard rock music)
646
00:32:42,926 --> 00:32:45,859
Okay, as screwy as it can be, the better.
647
00:32:45,859 --> 00:32:46,692
- Yeah, okay.
648
00:32:46,692 --> 00:32:47,831
- You know what I mean?
649
00:32:47,831 --> 00:32:50,012
'Cause, I like them
more fucked up than ...
650
00:32:50,012 --> 00:32:51,258
- Yeah, yeah.
651
00:32:51,258 --> 00:32:53,528
- [Voiceover] Of course if a
T-shirt is to be made screwy,
652
00:32:53,528 --> 00:32:57,695
the screwiness will be perfectly
controlled, hole by hole.
653
00:33:01,528 --> 00:33:03,449
- That hole is very important.
654
00:33:03,449 --> 00:33:04,282
- Sssst!
655
00:33:05,317 --> 00:33:08,234
- You know, it's not just any hole.
656
00:33:09,757 --> 00:33:13,174
Defects are good, we're celebrating them.
657
00:33:14,698 --> 00:33:19,037
There is another possibility,
which is even more ridiculous.
658
00:33:19,037 --> 00:33:21,517
I don't think it will look
ridiculous in a bad way.
659
00:33:21,517 --> 00:33:25,149
I think, I mean I uses that
word in the very nice sense.
660
00:33:25,149 --> 00:33:27,509
It's great being uncool.
661
00:33:27,509 --> 00:33:31,578
So this is brassiere, let's
have a walk in the brassiere,
662
00:33:31,578 --> 00:33:34,661
which I love, but it may be too ugly.
663
00:33:36,189 --> 00:33:39,098
But I mean, it's really good.
664
00:33:39,098 --> 00:33:40,749
It's really good but it's really ugly.
665
00:33:40,749 --> 00:33:42,949
I know that, and I like that.
666
00:33:42,949 --> 00:33:43,829
Don't worry!
667
00:33:43,829 --> 00:33:46,749
As soon as I get my clothes,
I'll push it really far.
668
00:33:46,749 --> 00:33:51,318
So far, that you might, that
we may get hams thrown at us.
669
00:33:51,318 --> 00:33:53,166
Oh, let me see those violet ones.
670
00:33:53,166 --> 00:33:54,937
Robert, like this is really super insane.
671
00:33:54,937 --> 00:33:56,958
Look at the falling down heels on that.
672
00:33:56,958 --> 00:33:58,458
- That is awesome.
673
00:34:00,107 --> 00:34:01,925
- [Voiceover] Though he plays
around with his clothes,
674
00:34:01,925 --> 00:34:03,506
when it comes to musically staging them,
675
00:34:03,506 --> 00:34:05,445
he knows exactly what he wants.
676
00:34:05,445 --> 00:34:09,365
A remix of a great
classic, Pachelbel's Canon.
677
00:34:09,365 --> 00:34:12,685
("Canon in D" remix)
678
00:34:12,685 --> 00:34:15,885
Intrigued by such a choice,
we simply asked him why?
679
00:34:15,885 --> 00:34:17,187
And out came one of the keys
680
00:34:17,187 --> 00:34:19,235
to how it all works in his head.
681
00:34:19,235 --> 00:34:22,885
- I had it in my mind, this
Pachelbel, I don't know why.
682
00:34:22,885 --> 00:34:25,867
I like, I get very ... It comes from ...
683
00:34:25,867 --> 00:34:28,965
I don't know, just like
all of a sudden like,
684
00:34:28,965 --> 00:34:31,798
think of something kind of cliché,
685
00:34:33,064 --> 00:34:35,043
in a way, and I just think okay but,
686
00:34:35,043 --> 00:34:39,293
I don't want to do it exactly
the ... Way I know it.
687
00:34:39,293 --> 00:34:40,352
It's that simple really.
688
00:34:40,352 --> 00:34:42,178
(laugh)
689
00:34:42,178 --> 00:34:46,261
It's so completely, not
a real, cerebral concept.
690
00:34:49,075 --> 00:34:51,305
I mean it's very pretty, it's nice.
691
00:34:51,305 --> 00:34:53,736
I mean I can see Sofia
wearing it like that.
692
00:34:53,736 --> 00:34:55,587
- [Voiceover] We were beginning
to fall under his spell,
693
00:34:55,587 --> 00:34:58,456
just like Sofia Coppola,
barefoot, pink nails,
694
00:34:58,456 --> 00:35:00,846
her ballet flats nearby, Laduree candles
695
00:35:00,846 --> 00:35:03,296
on the coffee table,
white smelling peonies,
696
00:35:03,296 --> 00:35:05,616
Fellini and Soderbergh
DVD's to catch up on,
697
00:35:05,616 --> 00:35:07,576
painting still unwrapped,
and expecting a baby,
698
00:35:07,576 --> 00:35:10,659
she gave us her take
on Marc Jacobs' vision.
699
00:35:10,659 --> 00:35:12,676
- Mark is such a creative person,
700
00:35:12,676 --> 00:35:16,737
and creative people, creativity,
is mysterious I think.
701
00:35:16,737 --> 00:35:20,167
So, I don't know exactly how he translates
702
00:35:20,167 --> 00:35:22,789
what he sees into what he makes,
703
00:35:22,789 --> 00:35:24,789
but I can relate to, um,
704
00:35:26,647 --> 00:35:29,966
or I can see how he takes a
lot of different information
705
00:35:29,966 --> 00:35:32,756
and interests and combines it in his work,
706
00:35:32,756 --> 00:35:35,173
which I think is interesting.
707
00:35:37,945 --> 00:35:39,335
- [Voiceover] A novelist
Francine Prose tried
708
00:35:39,335 --> 00:35:41,785
to explain this state of grace.
709
00:35:41,785 --> 00:35:44,785
- Its kind of a charmed situation,
710
00:35:44,785 --> 00:35:48,725
I mean that is anything that
is associated with Marc Jacobs
711
00:35:48,725 --> 00:35:50,065
instantly becomes popular.
712
00:35:50,065 --> 00:35:53,514
So, essentially they could call any line
713
00:35:53,514 --> 00:35:55,476
anything they wanted to,
714
00:35:55,476 --> 00:35:58,212
and if there were a
connection with Marc Jacobs,
715
00:35:58,212 --> 00:36:00,036
it would be incredibly popular.
716
00:36:00,036 --> 00:36:03,555
It's sort of the combination
of extremely stylish,
717
00:36:03,555 --> 00:36:07,327
extremely beautiful,
extremely unpretentious,
718
00:36:07,327 --> 00:36:08,905
and extremely hip.
719
00:36:08,905 --> 00:36:10,912
I mean the cachet is extraordinary.
720
00:36:10,912 --> 00:36:12,847
- You know, I have a teenage daughter,
721
00:36:12,847 --> 00:36:15,447
all her friends, I mean
to them, Marc is God.
722
00:36:15,447 --> 00:36:19,217
- He is an American genius in fashion.
723
00:36:19,217 --> 00:36:21,257
- [Voiceover] But for now, the
American genius in fashion,
724
00:36:21,257 --> 00:36:22,577
is stressing him out in the limo
725
00:36:22,577 --> 00:36:24,956
that is taking him to the
first show of the season.
726
00:36:24,956 --> 00:36:27,873
The New York show of his own label.
727
00:36:33,536 --> 00:36:34,857
In the backstage half light,
728
00:36:34,857 --> 00:36:37,456
he seems to be the only one
who can read the whole puzzle,
729
00:36:37,456 --> 00:36:39,457
to know how many balls he has in the air,
730
00:36:39,457 --> 00:36:41,825
an adrenaline overdose
he knows how to handle.
731
00:36:41,825 --> 00:36:43,721
It seems nerves and a knife edge are key
732
00:36:43,721 --> 00:36:45,652
to his creative process.
733
00:36:45,652 --> 00:36:49,681
- Sasha, can you go back with
Ryan in the white T shirt.
734
00:36:49,681 --> 00:36:53,079
("Canon in D" by Pachelbel remix)
735
00:36:53,079 --> 00:36:55,079
(claps)
736
00:36:59,197 --> 00:37:00,530
- [Woman] Alana!
737
00:37:02,355 --> 00:37:03,816
Alana!
738
00:37:03,816 --> 00:37:04,649
Diani!
739
00:37:06,003 --> 00:37:06,836
Maya!
740
00:37:21,243 --> 00:37:22,076
Alana!
741
00:37:25,534 --> 00:37:27,043
- [Voiceover] The Marc
Jacobs New York show
742
00:37:27,043 --> 00:37:29,612
is the key event of the
North American fashion scene.
743
00:37:29,612 --> 00:37:31,174
It's the place to be.
744
00:37:31,174 --> 00:37:34,102
Even the blasé of Hollywood
can't quite believe it.
745
00:37:34,102 --> 00:37:37,435
- This is more press than at a premiere.
746
00:37:42,803 --> 00:37:43,636
- Wow.
747
00:37:45,742 --> 00:37:47,902
It's the most important
social event in New York,
748
00:37:47,902 --> 00:37:51,294
Marc Jacobs fashion show, number one.
749
00:37:51,294 --> 00:37:53,683
Everybody can see, it's everybody sitting,
750
00:37:53,683 --> 00:37:57,134
and looking, and people feel strongly
751
00:37:57,134 --> 00:38:01,051
that he knows something,
you know, and he does.
752
00:38:02,161 --> 00:38:04,211
He has a good sensibility.
753
00:38:04,211 --> 00:38:05,990
It's sort of like an arena, you know,
754
00:38:05,990 --> 00:38:07,611
like if the games begin,
755
00:38:07,611 --> 00:38:09,269
everyone can see.
756
00:38:09,269 --> 00:38:13,186
It's a fascinating
sociological type situation.
757
00:38:14,161 --> 00:38:16,579
And Marc is the top dog,
758
00:38:16,579 --> 00:38:19,110
and doesn't care to be,
but he is, you know.
759
00:38:19,110 --> 00:38:23,277
("Canon in D" by Pachelbel, remix)
760
00:39:25,124 --> 00:39:27,444
(crowd applauds)
761
00:39:27,444 --> 00:39:28,964
- [Voiceover] But he takes
it all in his stride,
762
00:39:28,964 --> 00:39:30,484
without melodrama.
763
00:39:30,484 --> 00:39:32,364
- I didn't do anything, I just did my job.
764
00:39:32,364 --> 00:39:33,892
Hello ...Oh My god.
765
00:39:33,892 --> 00:39:37,905
- Oh my God, famous people!
- It was so crazy out there!
766
00:39:37,905 --> 00:39:39,461
- Hey, how are you?
- Congratulations, alright.
767
00:39:39,461 --> 00:39:40,294
And you're in it.
768
00:39:40,294 --> 00:39:41,127
- Wow.
769
00:39:41,127 --> 00:39:43,520
(screams)
770
00:39:43,520 --> 00:39:45,370
- I love you!
771
00:39:45,370 --> 00:39:47,779
- You look so fucking good!
- My girl!
772
00:39:47,779 --> 00:39:48,612
I told you ...
773
00:39:48,612 --> 00:39:49,445
(screams)
774
00:39:49,445 --> 00:39:50,708
Sofia!
775
00:39:50,708 --> 00:39:52,277
That's my friend Sofia, this is Kim.
776
00:39:52,277 --> 00:39:53,429
- Hi
- ... and Zoe.
777
00:39:53,429 --> 00:39:54,262
- Hi Zoe.
778
00:39:55,798 --> 00:39:57,973
Ah, she looks great.
779
00:39:57,973 --> 00:40:01,015
- [Marc] Ladies and
gentlemen, Victoria Beckam.
780
00:40:01,015 --> 00:40:03,045
- [Photographer] The
French people are jealous.
781
00:40:03,045 --> 00:40:05,245
- No they're not, I
love the French people.
782
00:40:05,245 --> 00:40:09,412
Some of my best friends are
French people, right Loïc?
783
00:40:10,295 --> 00:40:12,295
(yawns)
784
00:40:17,578 --> 00:40:18,828
This is insane.
785
00:40:25,425 --> 00:40:28,842
(muffled traffic sounds)
786
00:40:31,192 --> 00:40:32,025
So crazy.
787
00:40:34,320 --> 00:40:38,403
I never really believe
what people say, you know.
788
00:40:43,240 --> 00:40:45,280
- Congratulations
789
00:40:45,280 --> 00:40:49,030
(ominous instrumental music)
790
00:40:54,392 --> 00:40:55,225
- Thanks
791
00:40:57,131 --> 00:40:58,349
- How are you?
792
00:40:58,349 --> 00:41:00,835
- Take a picture with him.
793
00:41:00,835 --> 00:41:01,668
- I did
794
00:41:02,869 --> 00:41:03,927
- I loved your collection,
795
00:41:03,927 --> 00:41:06,549
it's a drastic, drastic
contrast from last season.
796
00:41:06,549 --> 00:41:07,632
It's amazing.
797
00:41:11,069 --> 00:41:12,486
- You're amazing.
798
00:41:18,966 --> 00:41:21,578
- Oh my God.
- So many mistakes.
799
00:41:21,578 --> 00:41:24,287
- There were so many mistakes.
800
00:41:24,287 --> 00:41:25,538
I'm so upset.
801
00:41:25,538 --> 00:41:27,258
- Wow, yeah, that first shoe.
802
00:41:27,258 --> 00:41:30,472
- The first shoe, the first
shoe and then the two dresses
803
00:41:30,472 --> 00:41:31,728
that didn't come out.
804
00:41:31,728 --> 00:41:33,040
- That's alright, you know what,
805
00:41:33,040 --> 00:41:35,565
everybody was like, that's the
fashion industry right there.
806
00:41:35,565 --> 00:41:36,398
- No!
807
00:41:38,017 --> 00:41:41,684
Another one's over,
it's on to the next one.
808
00:41:43,648 --> 00:41:44,898
On to the next.
809
00:41:46,867 --> 00:41:48,209
- [Voiceover] When we do catch up with him
810
00:41:48,209 --> 00:41:51,107
after his New York show, he's in pieces.
811
00:41:51,107 --> 00:41:55,678
- I'm really feeling like
very, very, very exhausted.
812
00:41:55,678 --> 00:41:56,928
Very exhausted.
813
00:41:58,387 --> 00:41:59,220
So ...
814
00:42:00,849 --> 00:42:02,567
- [Voiceover] But he
has neither the choice
815
00:42:02,567 --> 00:42:04,426
nor the time, in just three weeks,
816
00:42:04,426 --> 00:42:06,436
he must do another show,
for Vuitton this time,
817
00:42:06,436 --> 00:42:08,707
and start the idea machine pumping afresh.
818
00:42:08,707 --> 00:42:09,997
But where do you find inspiration
819
00:42:09,997 --> 00:42:11,494
when you're utterly drained.
820
00:42:11,494 --> 00:42:12,327
All year around,
821
00:42:12,327 --> 00:42:14,417
when Marc Jacobs isn't
silently judging gloth,
822
00:42:14,417 --> 00:42:16,746
he regenerates his creative strength,
823
00:42:16,746 --> 00:42:18,849
running around the galleries,
contemporary at fairs,
824
00:42:18,849 --> 00:42:22,225
and auctions, building up
his own art collection.
825
00:42:22,225 --> 00:42:24,857
He greets the gallery owners,
checks out what's on offer,
826
00:42:24,857 --> 00:42:26,929
along with one of his best friends,
827
00:42:26,929 --> 00:42:27,918
diamond dealer John Reinhold,
828
00:42:27,918 --> 00:42:29,584
who introduced him to this milieu.
829
00:42:29,584 --> 00:42:30,834
- Good?
- Good.
830
00:42:32,767 --> 00:42:34,302
- They're making a documentary.
831
00:42:34,302 --> 00:42:35,135
- Oh, on you?
832
00:42:35,135 --> 00:42:37,237
- Yeah, no, on you, we
didn't tell you yet.
833
00:42:37,237 --> 00:42:38,310
(laugh)
834
00:42:38,310 --> 00:42:39,340
- Did you find good things here?
835
00:42:39,340 --> 00:42:42,201
- I bought, yeah, a couple of nice things.
836
00:42:42,201 --> 00:42:45,112
I bought a nice drawing of Ed Ruscha's,
837
00:42:45,112 --> 00:42:48,729
and I bought a nice Richard Prince.
838
00:42:48,729 --> 00:42:50,713
(classical music)
839
00:42:50,713 --> 00:42:53,491
- [Voiceover] Yet, he chooses
not to show his collection.
840
00:42:53,491 --> 00:42:55,633
He remains very discreet on the subject.
841
00:42:55,633 --> 00:42:57,313
He owns neither boat nor car.
842
00:42:57,313 --> 00:42:59,201
He doesn't even own his own apartment.
843
00:42:59,201 --> 00:43:02,651
His only possessions are his
paintings and sculptures.
844
00:43:02,651 --> 00:43:04,052
Starting out with portraits,
845
00:43:04,052 --> 00:43:06,921
he then focused on
contemporary American artists.
846
00:43:06,921 --> 00:43:10,953
And now seems to be gradually
leaning towards abstraction.
847
00:43:10,953 --> 00:43:12,838
- Do you know very much about Picabia?
848
00:43:12,838 --> 00:43:14,918
- A little bit, a little bit.
849
00:43:14,918 --> 00:43:16,990
I bought a drawing, a Picabia drawing
850
00:43:16,990 --> 00:43:18,449
from London a few years ago.
851
00:43:18,449 --> 00:43:19,958
- [Voiceover] When he
really wants a piece,
852
00:43:19,958 --> 00:43:21,590
he has no qualms about
besieging a gallery,
853
00:43:21,590 --> 00:43:22,589
like the very prestigious
854
00:43:22,589 --> 00:43:24,878
Larry Gagosian gallery in New York.
855
00:43:24,878 --> 00:43:25,711
- [Interviewer] C'est Cezanne, oui?
856
00:43:25,711 --> 00:43:26,544
- Cezanne yeah.
857
00:43:26,544 --> 00:43:27,738
- [Interviewer] Cezanne again?
858
00:43:27,738 --> 00:43:29,517
- Cezanne yeah, and Picasso,
859
00:43:29,517 --> 00:43:31,469
and this is Bacon, Francis Bacon.
860
00:43:31,469 --> 00:43:32,978
- [Interviewer] I love that
you have a Francis Bacon
861
00:43:32,978 --> 00:43:33,811
on the floor.
862
00:43:33,811 --> 00:43:37,561
- Bacon there, Warhol,
and that's Cy Twombly.
863
00:43:38,581 --> 00:43:40,322
Marc's a very competitive collector.
864
00:43:40,322 --> 00:43:42,452
I mean he he does his homework.
865
00:43:42,452 --> 00:43:44,452
He knows when an artist
is going to have a show.
866
00:43:44,452 --> 00:43:47,722
He's very, very, he's very, in a nice way,
867
00:43:47,722 --> 00:43:50,839
but he's quite aggressive,
and you have to really
868
00:43:50,839 --> 00:43:54,479
have that kind of passion and kind of
869
00:43:54,479 --> 00:43:58,029
polite aggression, hopefully polite,
870
00:43:58,029 --> 00:44:00,661
but you need the ... to make a collection.
871
00:44:00,661 --> 00:44:03,090
Otherwise you're just buying stuff.
872
00:44:03,090 --> 00:44:05,410
- If he goes to an auction himself,
873
00:44:05,410 --> 00:44:09,450
together with me, which
happened once in a awhile,
874
00:44:09,450 --> 00:44:12,130
we would discuss the final price,
875
00:44:12,130 --> 00:44:14,701
but then, when he was actually there,
876
00:44:14,701 --> 00:44:16,364
and he would see the piece come up,
877
00:44:16,364 --> 00:44:17,564
he would whisper to me,
878
00:44:17,564 --> 00:44:19,495
"Oh we can go much higher than that."
879
00:44:19,495 --> 00:44:21,773
That's even before they started bidding.
880
00:44:21,773 --> 00:44:25,423
So, I would ask him to
please sit on his hands,
881
00:44:25,423 --> 00:44:29,194
so that he wouldn't be
able to raise his paddle.
882
00:44:29,194 --> 00:44:30,111
- Hey Jeff!
883
00:44:31,404 --> 00:44:34,103
- [Voiceover] Jeff Koons,
Rachel Feinstein, John Currin,
884
00:44:34,103 --> 00:44:36,364
Elizabeth Peyton, he hob
nobs with numerous artists
885
00:44:36,364 --> 00:44:38,364
from the New York scene.
886
00:44:40,975 --> 00:44:42,823
And when Californian artist Ed Ruscha
887
00:44:42,823 --> 00:44:44,263
attended one of his shows,
888
00:44:44,263 --> 00:44:46,495
a lifelong dream had come true.
889
00:44:46,495 --> 00:44:48,534
- When I met Madonna, I was
like, Hi, nice to meet you,
890
00:44:48,534 --> 00:44:51,264
and I like her, I
respect her, she's great,
891
00:44:51,264 --> 00:44:53,092
but when I met Ed
Ruscha, I couldn't speak,
892
00:44:53,092 --> 00:44:56,134
I had, I was like, oh my God.
893
00:44:56,134 --> 00:44:58,534
- [Voiceover] In the endless
corridors of his Tokyo hotel,
894
00:44:58,534 --> 00:45:01,054
we thought to ask him about
this boundless admiration,
895
00:45:01,054 --> 00:45:05,221
and his hang-ups as a craftsman
in the face of artists.
896
00:45:06,232 --> 00:45:07,982
- Oh, my door's open.
897
00:45:10,784 --> 00:45:11,910
Come on in.
898
00:45:11,910 --> 00:45:12,743
- [Interviewer] Yeah?
899
00:45:12,743 --> 00:45:14,536
- Yeah, why not.
900
00:45:14,536 --> 00:45:16,375
Oh, I think they're
doing the housekeeping.
901
00:45:16,375 --> 00:45:17,208
You can come in.
902
00:45:17,208 --> 00:45:20,397
Look I have like a Japanese dining room,
903
00:45:20,397 --> 00:45:22,815
I have this living
room, beautiful bedroom,
904
00:45:22,815 --> 00:45:24,988
gorgeous bathroom.
905
00:45:24,988 --> 00:45:26,649
- [Interviewer] Fantastic.
906
00:45:26,649 --> 00:45:27,607
- [Voiceover] They booked him into
907
00:45:27,607 --> 00:45:29,467
one of the hotels' largest suites.
908
00:45:29,467 --> 00:45:33,634
It seems his French employers
put a premium on his comfort.
909
00:45:35,049 --> 00:45:36,189
- Do you want to sit down?
910
00:45:36,189 --> 00:45:37,399
- [Voiceover] But we didn't dare.
911
00:45:37,399 --> 00:45:39,356
We weren't half as relaxed
as the Japanese photographer
912
00:45:39,356 --> 00:45:41,569
who sang with him in the elevator
a couple of days earlier.
913
00:45:41,569 --> 00:45:42,996
(sings in Japanese)
914
00:45:42,996 --> 00:45:43,836
Yet, we did have a chat.
915
00:45:43,836 --> 00:45:45,497
- A little intimidated because again,
916
00:45:45,497 --> 00:45:47,473
I've always felt intimidated
by the art world,
917
00:45:47,473 --> 00:45:48,753
you know what I mean?
918
00:45:48,753 --> 00:45:50,252
Like I thought other ...
919
00:45:50,252 --> 00:45:51,804
Like again in the creative hierarchy,
920
00:45:51,804 --> 00:45:54,033
the art world is like up here,
921
00:45:54,033 --> 00:45:57,175
and fashion is like down there.
922
00:45:57,175 --> 00:45:59,214
And it's actually Elizabeth who's made me
923
00:45:59,214 --> 00:46:00,713
feel differently about that.
924
00:46:00,713 --> 00:46:02,461
You know, she's always
saying, you're so wrong.
925
00:46:02,461 --> 00:46:04,975
And it's like, you know,
so important, and so vital,
926
00:46:04,975 --> 00:46:06,804
and, you know, what you do.
927
00:46:06,804 --> 00:46:08,684
She's very encouraging that way,
928
00:46:08,684 --> 00:46:11,452
because I'm always saying,
it's, you know, like a job.
929
00:46:11,452 --> 00:46:13,792
It's like ... because I see the life
930
00:46:13,792 --> 00:46:15,804
of these artists sometimes,
and the way they live,
931
00:46:15,804 --> 00:46:17,382
and how they travel, and just think
932
00:46:17,382 --> 00:46:20,553
it's such a beautiful, creative existence
933
00:46:20,553 --> 00:46:24,636
that seems so sort of pure
in some way, you know.
934
00:46:26,575 --> 00:46:27,414
- [Voiceover] In New York,
935
00:46:27,414 --> 00:46:28,631
in the heart of Greenwich Village,
936
00:46:28,631 --> 00:46:30,882
we went to meet the
famous Elizabeth Peyton,
937
00:46:30,882 --> 00:46:34,393
the painter of an entire
generation, Marc Jacobs' idol.
938
00:46:34,393 --> 00:46:38,560
He'd spend his time leafing
through catalogs of her work.
939
00:46:40,484 --> 00:46:42,700
And in diamond dealer
John Reinhold's bedroom,
940
00:46:42,700 --> 00:46:45,192
next to millions of
dollars of Warhol's Marilyn
941
00:46:45,192 --> 00:46:47,112
were a couple of portraits of Marc Jacobs,
942
00:46:47,112 --> 00:46:48,779
by Elizabeth Peyton.
943
00:46:51,103 --> 00:46:52,951
She was moving into her new home,
944
00:46:52,951 --> 00:46:54,335
the dog didn't bite anyone,
945
00:46:54,335 --> 00:46:56,364
the glasses were still
wrapped in newspaper.
946
00:46:56,364 --> 00:46:58,703
It was an important meeting.
947
00:46:58,703 --> 00:47:01,503
- [Interviewer] You're the
one who got his complex away,
948
00:47:01,503 --> 00:47:04,920
Because he felt so inferior artistically?
949
00:47:06,644 --> 00:47:09,644
- That's just so hard
to imagine knowing Marc,
950
00:47:09,644 --> 00:47:10,964
because he's so creative,
951
00:47:10,964 --> 00:47:13,063
and he's really so sophisticated.
952
00:47:13,063 --> 00:47:15,353
But, I think when you're outside of art,
953
00:47:15,353 --> 00:47:19,186
it can seem like it's
some impenetrable world,
954
00:47:20,415 --> 00:47:22,273
but he was really right there already,
955
00:47:22,273 --> 00:47:24,084
with all his ideas and thoughts.
956
00:47:24,084 --> 00:47:27,622
When he started collecting
art, he knew what he wanted.
957
00:47:27,622 --> 00:47:30,383
You know, he's very smart, really.
958
00:47:30,383 --> 00:47:33,364
He just seems so in tune with culture,
959
00:47:33,364 --> 00:47:34,764
and he's making culture,
960
00:47:34,764 --> 00:47:37,473
like he's sort of remaking
the world in his image
961
00:47:37,473 --> 00:47:41,185
by sending off droves of
people, girls down the street
962
00:47:41,185 --> 00:47:45,352
in sequin ballet flats, and
you know, purple corduroys.
963
00:47:46,322 --> 00:47:49,415
I think that's so brilliant,
and incredibly powerful too
964
00:47:49,415 --> 00:47:52,583
about the kind of affect
you can have on your world
965
00:47:52,583 --> 00:47:54,465
through your will alone.
966
00:47:54,465 --> 00:47:56,364
And that's basically
what artists are doing,
967
00:47:56,364 --> 00:48:00,531
sort of remaking a world
within their work, right?
968
00:48:01,615 --> 00:48:02,724
- [Voiceover] But his interest in art
969
00:48:02,724 --> 00:48:04,455
has already found an outlet in his work.
970
00:48:04,455 --> 00:48:05,975
Having asked creator Stephen Sprouse
971
00:48:05,975 --> 00:48:07,655
to graffiti Vuitton handbags,
972
00:48:07,655 --> 00:48:10,133
he's now asked Japanese
artist, Takashi Murakami
973
00:48:10,133 --> 00:48:13,825
to toy with Vuitton bags in 36 colors.
974
00:48:13,825 --> 00:48:15,785
- [Interviewer] How
did you get the idea to
975
00:48:15,785 --> 00:48:18,202
call Murakami the first time?
976
00:48:20,295 --> 00:48:23,465
- Because, I had seen his
sculpture at an auction,
977
00:48:23,465 --> 00:48:26,105
and I'd read some articles about Takashi,
978
00:48:26,105 --> 00:48:29,375
and then there was a show
at the Cartier Foundation,
979
00:48:29,375 --> 00:48:31,215
and when I was at the show
at the Cartier Foundation
980
00:48:31,215 --> 00:48:33,404
I went to work the next
day, or two days later,
981
00:48:33,404 --> 00:48:35,724
and I asked Camille to try and find him,
982
00:48:35,724 --> 00:48:38,978
to get in touch with him,
so we sent him an email.
983
00:48:38,978 --> 00:48:40,413
Just like that.
- [Interviewer] So simple.
984
00:48:40,413 --> 00:48:41,767
- Yeah, it's like really ...
985
00:48:41,767 --> 00:48:44,087
You know I'm not very
clever, I'm just like
986
00:48:44,087 --> 00:48:46,254
oh call him up, see if he wants to chat.
987
00:48:46,254 --> 00:48:49,421
(upbeat flute melody)
988
00:48:50,806 --> 00:48:53,274
- [Voiceover] Takashi
Murakami's celebrity has soared.
989
00:48:53,274 --> 00:48:54,814
As he signs autographs and bags,
990
00:48:54,814 --> 00:48:56,774
his market price has exploded,
991
00:48:56,774 --> 00:48:59,385
and his ego oscillates
between the utmost humility,
992
00:48:59,385 --> 00:49:01,552
and megalomaniac euphoria.
993
00:49:02,406 --> 00:49:06,573
- So this piece is not, you
know, I have no point of view,
994
00:49:07,504 --> 00:49:09,837
so, if you have a questions,
995
00:49:11,065 --> 00:49:12,625
(laugh)
996
00:49:12,625 --> 00:49:15,185
it's really hard for me.
997
00:49:15,185 --> 00:49:17,673
Our contract is very interesting,
998
00:49:17,673 --> 00:49:22,006
when it will be opened
200 hundred years later,
999
00:49:22,006 --> 00:49:25,652
people really understanding what is that,
1000
00:49:25,652 --> 00:49:28,253
really beautiful contract, I believe.
1001
00:49:28,253 --> 00:49:32,170
It is my work, no, no,
it is our collaboration.
1002
00:49:33,373 --> 00:49:37,595
Not you know (unclear)
monogram, it is a concept.
1003
00:49:37,595 --> 00:49:39,955
You know if we can overhear,
1004
00:49:39,955 --> 00:49:43,122
people really impressive, maybe, yeah.
1005
00:49:44,075 --> 00:49:46,145
Very beautiful, not visually,
1006
00:49:46,145 --> 00:49:49,562
the concept is very beautiful, I believe.
1007
00:49:51,894 --> 00:49:53,694
- [Voiceover] The Vuitton
Murakami collaboration
1008
00:49:53,694 --> 00:49:55,393
is a textbook case of marketing.
1009
00:49:55,393 --> 00:49:57,105
As it fuels the artist's career,
1010
00:49:57,105 --> 00:49:59,894
it adds a cachet of audacity
and creativity to the brand,
1011
00:49:59,894 --> 00:50:02,126
and everybody gets richer in the process.
1012
00:50:02,126 --> 00:50:03,605
And it's about to happen again,
1013
00:50:03,605 --> 00:50:05,305
as Marc Jacobs picks up on a sculpture
1014
00:50:05,305 --> 00:50:07,244
by Swiss artist, Sylvie Fleury,
1015
00:50:07,244 --> 00:50:09,934
a Vuitton bag cast in
silver coated bronze.
1016
00:50:09,934 --> 00:50:11,973
Suddenly it's come full
circle on the runway,
1017
00:50:11,973 --> 00:50:14,013
and the front row seem to love it.
1018
00:50:14,013 --> 00:50:18,180
(playful percussive instrumental)
1019
00:50:22,714 --> 00:50:24,950
Artists are worthy when
full in every sense,
1020
00:50:24,950 --> 00:50:27,451
and Vuitton, who has the
means to afford its foibles,
1021
00:50:27,451 --> 00:50:29,821
has decided to a giant sized museum,
1022
00:50:29,821 --> 00:50:31,180
at a cost of 100 million Euros,
1023
00:50:31,180 --> 00:50:35,347
to concretize the spirit
of artistic collaboration.
1024
00:50:48,875 --> 00:50:51,085
As for Marc Jacobs, he
continues to seek out
1025
00:50:51,085 --> 00:50:52,965
confrontations with artists.
1026
00:50:52,965 --> 00:50:54,845
In Tokyo we'd seen him visit the venerable
1027
00:50:54,845 --> 00:50:58,045
Yayoi Kusama, renowned
for her famous polka dots
1028
00:50:58,045 --> 00:51:01,546
with which she tirelessly
adorns just about everything.
1029
00:51:01,546 --> 00:51:05,629
(inspirational electronic music)
1030
00:51:08,535 --> 00:51:09,368
- Aw!
1031
00:51:10,394 --> 00:51:13,285
That's so beautiful, look at that.
1032
00:51:13,285 --> 00:51:15,874
(laugh)
1033
00:51:15,874 --> 00:51:17,183
- [Voiceover] They both share a capacity
1034
00:51:17,183 --> 00:51:19,691
to oppose their vision
onto a limitless world.
1035
00:51:19,691 --> 00:51:22,869
Suddenly they were exchanging
a few home truths on creation.
1036
00:51:22,869 --> 00:51:25,531
Marc Jacobs home truth number one.
1037
00:51:25,531 --> 00:51:30,099
- I don't have any separation
between life and work.
1038
00:51:30,099 --> 00:51:32,019
I guess it's the same thing.
1039
00:51:32,019 --> 00:51:34,760
- [Voiceover] Yayoi Kusama,
home truth number two.
1040
00:51:34,760 --> 00:51:39,211
- Without my art, you
know, my life is nothing.
1041
00:51:39,211 --> 00:51:41,659
- [Voiceover] Marc Jacobs,
home truth number three.
1042
00:51:41,659 --> 00:51:44,216
- I don't know how to define success.
1043
00:51:44,216 --> 00:51:46,410
If I can continue to do what I love,
1044
00:51:46,410 --> 00:51:47,798
then I am successful.
1045
00:51:47,798 --> 00:51:49,179
- [Voiceover] And the great Yayoi Kusama,
1046
00:51:49,179 --> 00:51:50,660
principle number four.
1047
00:51:50,660 --> 00:51:54,077
- No surrender, no, you know, compassion,
1048
00:51:55,172 --> 00:51:57,452
just work very hard you know.
1049
00:51:57,452 --> 00:51:58,285
- We must.
1050
00:51:58,285 --> 00:51:59,201
- Yeah, we must you know.
1051
00:51:59,201 --> 00:52:00,629
- I promise, you too!
1052
00:52:00,629 --> 00:52:02,208
- Yeah, me too.
- Don't stop.
1053
00:52:02,208 --> 00:52:03,061
- Yeah, don't stop.
1054
00:52:03,061 --> 00:52:05,192
(laugh)
1055
00:52:05,192 --> 00:52:06,512
- You keep going.
1056
00:52:06,512 --> 00:52:10,679
- [Voiceover] In the end,
they didn't want to part.
1057
00:52:14,408 --> 00:52:16,400
We sensed that Yayoi Kusama's endless dots
1058
00:52:16,400 --> 00:52:19,410
would echo awhile in Marc Jacobs' mind.
1059
00:52:19,410 --> 00:52:23,243
(contemplative strings music)
1060
00:52:42,638 --> 00:52:44,419
- I met Yayoi Kusama.
1061
00:52:44,419 --> 00:52:45,798
- How are you?
1062
00:52:45,798 --> 00:52:49,048
- She's great, she's dotty as could be.
1063
00:52:51,747 --> 00:52:53,535
- [Voiceover] Back in Paris at Vuitton,
1064
00:52:53,535 --> 00:52:55,037
aren't these polka dots?
1065
00:52:55,037 --> 00:52:56,518
- [Marc] I mean I think they
could be like a shock or
1066
00:52:56,518 --> 00:52:58,438
- [Voiceover] And when night falls,
1067
00:52:58,438 --> 00:53:00,496
it's time for a little relaxation.
1068
00:53:00,496 --> 00:53:02,519
Laying pastel leather dots on bag models
1069
00:53:02,519 --> 00:53:03,936
for hours on end.
1070
00:53:07,498 --> 00:53:09,678
Bag's whose genealogy can
doubtless be traced back
1071
00:53:09,678 --> 00:53:12,157
to Yayoi Kusama's Tokyo polka dots,
1072
00:53:12,157 --> 00:53:14,506
to this old bottle top bag in the studio,
1073
00:53:14,506 --> 00:53:16,628
and perhaps even to a plate
in the company kitchen
1074
00:53:16,628 --> 00:53:18,239
where Marc Jacobs dines every evening,
1075
00:53:18,239 --> 00:53:20,239
a plateful of macaroons.
1076
00:53:21,359 --> 00:53:23,847
Right this way, you macaroons.
1077
00:53:23,847 --> 00:53:28,014
("Dance of the Sugar Plum
Fairy" by Tchaikovsky remix)
1078
00:53:41,370 --> 00:53:42,970
- [Woman 1] Please, may I taste one
1079
00:53:42,970 --> 00:53:44,720
of your protein bars.
1080
00:53:47,388 --> 00:53:50,179
- [Man] They're very nice.
1081
00:53:50,179 --> 00:53:51,012
- [Marc] Do you want one?
1082
00:53:51,012 --> 00:53:51,929
Do you and Pete want to split one?
1083
00:53:51,929 --> 00:53:53,938
Does anyone else, do you like one?
1084
00:53:53,938 --> 00:53:55,680
- [Man] Okay.
1085
00:53:55,680 --> 00:53:56,571
- [Woman 2] Is it nice?
1086
00:53:56,571 --> 00:53:57,701
- [Woman 1] Yeah
1087
00:53:57,701 --> 00:53:58,868
- Hey kids ...
1088
00:54:00,147 --> 00:54:02,191
- [Woman 1] It's quite nice really.
1089
00:54:02,191 --> 00:54:03,274
- I told you!
1090
00:54:05,543 --> 00:54:07,543
Protein is good for you.
1091
00:54:09,384 --> 00:54:12,134
- [Woman 1] They're off me teeth.
1092
00:54:14,309 --> 00:54:16,344
- [Voiceover] So Marc Jacobs' brain feeds
1093
00:54:16,344 --> 00:54:19,680
on fashion, art, music, and encounters.
1094
00:54:19,680 --> 00:54:22,202
On a more prosaic level, to
set its wheels in motion,
1095
00:54:22,202 --> 00:54:23,562
and oil its neurotransmitters,
1096
00:54:23,562 --> 00:54:26,979
it thrives on a rare diet of proteins ...
1097
00:54:29,212 --> 00:54:30,045
- So good.
1098
00:54:31,154 --> 00:54:32,649
- [Voiceover] ...pins ...
1099
00:54:32,649 --> 00:54:35,816
(playful organ music)
1100
00:54:39,160 --> 00:54:40,660
...fingernails ...
1101
00:54:44,909 --> 00:54:47,576
And above all, nasty cigarettes.
1102
00:54:53,031 --> 00:54:56,227
He gave up drugs and alcohol,
which had become a problem.
1103
00:54:56,227 --> 00:54:59,288
But he certainly hasn't
lost his compulsive habits.
1104
00:54:59,288 --> 00:55:03,038
(cigarette lighters flip on)
1105
00:55:19,834 --> 00:55:22,394
But fortunately, specialists
have studied his case.
1106
00:55:22,394 --> 00:55:25,114
And he's become a model
of healthy nutrition.
1107
00:55:25,114 --> 00:55:29,042
- Okay, now, I drink, in
case you're interested,
1108
00:55:29,042 --> 00:55:31,114
all you watchers out there, want to know
1109
00:55:31,114 --> 00:55:33,682
about healthy, nutrition, whatever ...
1110
00:55:33,682 --> 00:55:35,381
This is mangosteen, it's disgusting,
1111
00:55:35,381 --> 00:55:37,298
tastes like baby vomit.
1112
00:55:40,732 --> 00:55:43,023
It's a very rare fruit.
1113
00:55:43,023 --> 00:55:47,190
And this is, goji juice,
it's also very rare, berry.
1114
00:55:48,194 --> 00:55:50,527
Very good for the digestion.
1115
00:55:54,389 --> 00:55:57,472
These are omega-3, and for digestion.
1116
00:56:00,709 --> 00:56:02,209
Very good for you.
1117
00:56:08,120 --> 00:56:11,620
This one, is VSL#3, the friendly bacteria.
1118
00:56:12,558 --> 00:56:15,656
It's acidophilus, which
you find in yogurt.
1119
00:56:15,656 --> 00:56:17,323
Really good for you.
1120
00:56:19,238 --> 00:56:20,266
Mix that up with water.
1121
00:56:20,266 --> 00:56:22,849
Actually, that one tastes okay.
1122
00:56:25,277 --> 00:56:27,860
(stirs in cup)
1123
00:56:39,096 --> 00:56:41,846
Then, you get to eat your dinner.
1124
00:56:48,724 --> 00:56:50,391
- It's very filling.
1125
00:56:52,140 --> 00:56:53,352
- Oh, I forgot to tell you,
1126
00:56:53,352 --> 00:56:55,751
you get really constipated
from eating these things.
1127
00:56:55,751 --> 00:56:57,834
(laughs)
1128
00:56:58,912 --> 00:57:00,192
- [Voiceover] Now that the macaroon layout
1129
00:57:00,192 --> 00:57:03,400
has been decided upon, we move
on to the production stage.
1130
00:57:03,400 --> 00:57:06,870
- Quatre would be deal,
three would be acceptable,
1131
00:57:06,870 --> 00:57:07,890
two would be ...
1132
00:57:07,890 --> 00:57:09,221
- Unacceptable.
1133
00:57:09,221 --> 00:57:10,221
- A disaster
1134
00:57:12,852 --> 00:57:14,648
Four is ideal.
1135
00:57:14,648 --> 00:57:17,605
Let's go for the ideal ... so ...
1136
00:57:17,605 --> 00:57:18,438
- [Voiceover] Marc Jacobs wants
1137
00:57:18,438 --> 00:57:21,155
four different macaroon
bags in just five days.
1138
00:57:21,155 --> 00:57:22,544
That means stepping on it.
1139
00:57:22,544 --> 00:57:25,115
He has a habit of asking for
everything in multiple colors,
1140
00:57:25,115 --> 00:57:27,303
thus, every pair of shorts, every jacket
1141
00:57:27,303 --> 00:57:30,096
exists in at least six different colors.
1142
00:57:30,096 --> 00:57:31,358
But all will not be shown,
1143
00:57:31,358 --> 00:57:32,692
it's a matter of having the choice
1144
00:57:32,692 --> 00:57:35,244
when styling and
finalizing the silhouettes.
1145
00:57:35,244 --> 00:57:37,793
In New York, a 150 models,
and multiple versions
1146
00:57:37,793 --> 00:57:39,814
were not used for the show.
1147
00:57:39,814 --> 00:57:41,193
There were scores of different bag models,
1148
00:57:41,193 --> 00:57:43,051
and as for the shoes ...
1149
00:57:43,051 --> 00:57:44,220
- [Interviewer] Tell me how many shoes
1150
00:57:44,220 --> 00:57:45,288
do you produce for the show?
1151
00:57:45,288 --> 00:57:46,455
- 500 - 600
1152
00:57:47,456 --> 00:57:51,623
("Dance of the Sugar Plum
Fairy" by Tchaikovsky remix)
1153
00:57:54,627 --> 00:57:56,460
- This is shoe Heaven.
1154
00:57:57,534 --> 00:57:58,387
Shoe Heaven!
1155
00:57:58,387 --> 00:58:00,162
Shoe Heaven!
1156
00:58:00,162 --> 00:58:01,417
Shoe Heaven!
1157
00:58:01,417 --> 00:58:03,636
- [Voiceover] In this business,
things tend to snowball.
1158
00:58:03,636 --> 00:58:05,706
When Parisian suppliers
like the Giulio Gussans
1159
00:58:05,706 --> 00:58:07,628
come to present their
wares, the Vuitton teams
1160
00:58:07,628 --> 00:58:09,434
do their utmost to stretch the order list
1161
00:58:09,434 --> 00:58:10,896
as long as it will go.
1162
00:58:10,896 --> 00:58:12,525
While the artisan will try to resist
1163
00:58:12,525 --> 00:58:14,735
to protect his own staff,
already overburdened
1164
00:58:14,735 --> 00:58:16,897
with work for prestigious
names such as Chanel,
1165
00:58:16,897 --> 00:58:20,480
or Balenciaga during
the fashion show week.
1166
00:58:25,700 --> 00:58:26,700
- 115 pieces
1167
00:58:29,230 --> 00:58:30,860
- Can't we have 60.
1168
00:58:30,860 --> 00:58:32,860
(laugh)
1169
00:59:04,514 --> 00:59:07,347
(throat clearing)
1170
00:59:31,636 --> 00:59:34,297
- [Voiceover] 24 hours before
the show, it's accessory time.
1171
00:59:34,297 --> 00:59:37,076
The bags, shoes, headbands and
jewelry are brought together
1172
00:59:37,076 --> 00:59:39,126
and a game of musical chairs begins
1173
00:59:39,126 --> 00:59:41,526
to determine what goes with what.
1174
00:59:41,526 --> 00:59:45,693
("Dance of the Sugar Plum
Fairy" by Tchaikovsky remix)
1175
01:00:01,486 --> 01:00:04,995
We're getting dangerously
close to the show deadline.
1176
01:00:04,995 --> 01:00:08,412
(Scottish bagpipe music)
1177
01:00:10,987 --> 01:00:12,827
When in walks a prized guest,
1178
01:00:12,827 --> 01:00:15,075
one of the most influential
women in the fashion world,
1179
01:00:15,075 --> 01:00:19,154
Chief Editor of American
Vogue, Anna Wintour.
1180
01:00:19,154 --> 01:00:22,904
(dialogue obscured by music)
1181
01:00:24,995 --> 01:00:26,345
- Thank you for receiving me.
1182
01:00:26,345 --> 01:00:27,178
- Oh, you're welcome.
1183
01:00:27,178 --> 01:00:28,011
- Thank you for my bag.
1184
01:00:28,011 --> 01:00:28,884
- I'm just running to the men's room
1185
01:00:28,884 --> 01:00:30,071
so I'll be right back,
okay Robert's right there,
1186
01:00:30,071 --> 01:00:31,129
if you wanna talk to him.
1187
01:00:31,129 --> 01:00:31,962
- Okay.
1188
01:00:34,539 --> 01:00:36,121
- [Voiceover] Her eagle
eye scans the room,
1189
01:00:36,121 --> 01:00:38,667
and immediately spots
the showstopping bag.
1190
01:00:38,667 --> 01:00:40,453
- This tote right here.
1191
01:00:40,453 --> 01:00:42,870
- Yeah, they're really funny.
1192
01:00:44,681 --> 01:00:45,898
It's leather.
1193
01:00:45,898 --> 01:00:47,230
- It's leather?
1194
01:00:47,230 --> 01:00:50,735
- It's leather, yeah,
it's all leather woven.
1195
01:00:50,735 --> 01:00:52,568
Shoes, what dya think?
1196
01:00:54,999 --> 01:00:57,844
- [Voiceover] She gets her
own, on the go, fashion show.
1197
01:00:57,844 --> 01:01:01,594
(energetic electronic music)
1198
01:01:19,233 --> 01:01:21,535
And she even makes a comment.
1199
01:01:21,535 --> 01:01:22,702
- Very pretty.
1200
01:01:25,823 --> 01:01:28,823
(opera music plays)
1201
01:01:30,524 --> 01:01:32,273
- [Voiceover] As soon as
Anna Wintour has left,
1202
01:01:32,273 --> 01:01:33,944
finalizing of the accessories begins again
1203
01:01:33,944 --> 01:01:35,370
with a vengeance.
1204
01:01:35,370 --> 01:01:36,990
- These shoes, we have other options,
1205
01:01:36,990 --> 01:01:38,369
where they come in her size.
1206
01:01:38,369 --> 01:01:40,944
Could we try, can we
see the gold metal one?
1207
01:01:40,944 --> 01:01:43,395
Let's make this looks
rich enough, you know.
1208
01:01:43,395 --> 01:01:46,607
(speaks in French)
1209
01:01:46,607 --> 01:01:48,076
- [Voiceover] This was
the moment we dreaded.
1210
01:01:48,076 --> 01:01:49,915
One we'd already experienced in New York.
1211
01:01:49,915 --> 01:01:51,388
Pushed to our physical limits.
1212
01:01:51,388 --> 01:01:52,956
There we saw how these last 12 hours
1213
01:01:52,956 --> 01:01:54,447
were a race against the clock,
1214
01:01:54,447 --> 01:01:56,197
compromise, and possibility.
1215
01:01:56,197 --> 01:01:57,897
- Yeah, the labels in the wrong side.
1216
01:01:57,897 --> 01:01:59,244
- [Voiceover] The clothes
were still mutating.
1217
01:01:59,244 --> 01:02:01,303
Even the T-shirts were back to front.
1218
01:02:01,303 --> 01:02:03,220
- Turn it around again.
1219
01:02:05,356 --> 01:02:07,023
Has it been cut yet?
1220
01:02:09,453 --> 01:02:10,954
- Yes
1221
01:02:10,954 --> 01:02:13,614
Is it possible to cut it again,
1222
01:02:13,614 --> 01:02:17,781
in the pearlescent way, so
the (unclear fashion term).
1223
01:02:20,023 --> 01:02:21,506
- Okay, stick it out the front?
1224
01:02:21,506 --> 01:02:22,917
- Stick it in the toaster.
1225
01:02:22,917 --> 01:02:24,017
- Okay.
1226
01:02:24,017 --> 01:02:26,346
- We may have to make an ivory version,
1227
01:02:26,346 --> 01:02:28,906
but I think we need more,
like as much of this stuff.
1228
01:02:28,906 --> 01:02:30,775
It would be great to have
this one and a black one
1229
01:02:30,775 --> 01:02:33,054
out her, but if they could be
cut in the different patterns.
1230
01:02:33,054 --> 01:02:34,196
- Okay, yeah.
1231
01:02:34,196 --> 01:02:35,636
- Oh, is the white coat ready?
1232
01:02:35,636 --> 01:02:38,708
What I'd like to do is add
like a couple more layers.
1233
01:02:38,708 --> 01:02:39,895
- Okay
1234
01:02:39,895 --> 01:02:41,708
- Oh, Joseph, and on the pants,
1235
01:02:41,708 --> 01:02:43,658
there's spots on one side.
1236
01:02:43,658 --> 01:02:46,388
- I think, what we can do,
is keep the big motif here
1237
01:02:46,388 --> 01:02:48,566
and maybe just do a partial motif,
1238
01:02:48,566 --> 01:02:51,356
like a really small one here,
at least to give some weight.
1239
01:02:51,356 --> 01:02:52,189
It's never going to be the same.
1240
01:02:52,189 --> 01:02:53,022
- Yeah
1241
01:02:53,022 --> 01:02:53,855
- Are you Okay?
1242
01:02:53,855 --> 01:02:54,982
- Yeah
1243
01:02:54,982 --> 01:02:56,399
- Are you crying.
1244
01:02:59,303 --> 01:03:02,114
So maybe, you know, but
just a tiny bit in the front
1245
01:03:02,114 --> 01:03:05,042
and then maybe weighing
the back a little bit.
1246
01:03:05,042 --> 01:03:06,202
- [Voiceover] The machine was racing.
1247
01:03:06,202 --> 01:03:08,394
Ideas from all sides, workshops gone wild,
1248
01:03:08,394 --> 01:03:10,412
Marc Jacobs in meltdown.
1249
01:03:10,412 --> 01:03:12,995
(sirens sound)
1250
01:03:16,962 --> 01:03:20,545
(chaotic electronic music)
1251
01:03:22,000 --> 01:03:24,581
(calming piano music)
1252
01:03:24,581 --> 01:03:28,731
(chaotic electronic music)
1253
01:03:28,731 --> 01:03:31,898
(sewing machine hums)
1254
01:03:32,801 --> 01:03:35,134
- I'm gonna take your purse.
1255
01:03:40,682 --> 01:03:42,003
- [Voiceover] In Paris, at Vuitton,
1256
01:03:42,003 --> 01:03:43,683
the pressure is even more intense.
1257
01:03:43,683 --> 01:03:46,282
Everyone is in overdrive.
1258
01:03:46,282 --> 01:03:51,240
At 4 am, bags are still
arriving in dribs and drabs.
1259
01:03:51,240 --> 01:03:54,073
(speaking French)
1260
01:03:55,341 --> 01:03:56,952
All but one.
1261
01:03:56,952 --> 01:03:58,741
Four people have been working relentlessly
1262
01:03:58,741 --> 01:04:01,410
for three days on the
extravagant Cubist bag.
1263
01:04:01,410 --> 01:04:04,272
The compilation of several
Vuitton bags in one.
1264
01:04:04,272 --> 01:04:06,890
The multiple layers of
leather have broken needles,
1265
01:04:06,890 --> 01:04:08,057
even machines.
1266
01:04:10,575 --> 01:04:12,951
They completed it by hand.
1267
01:04:12,951 --> 01:04:16,868
And here it is, the
impossible bag is finished.
1268
01:04:27,602 --> 01:04:31,019
(tense orchestral music)
1269
01:04:54,242 --> 01:04:56,742
(door creaks)
1270
01:05:26,150 --> 01:05:28,162
It's 6:30 in the morning,
1271
01:05:28,162 --> 01:05:30,442
but will this bag win the
approval of a Marc Jacobs
1272
01:05:30,442 --> 01:05:32,852
who has never seen it?
1273
01:05:32,852 --> 01:05:36,769
(suspenseful orchestral music)
1274
01:05:47,401 --> 01:05:48,234
- Wow
1275
01:05:49,532 --> 01:05:50,615
Look at that!
1276
01:05:52,111 --> 01:05:53,611
That is so insane.
1277
01:05:55,020 --> 01:05:57,122
That is sick in the head.
1278
01:05:57,122 --> 01:05:58,772
- [Man] (speaks in French)
1279
01:05:58,772 --> 01:06:01,955
- [Woman] No!
- (speaks in French)
1280
01:06:01,955 --> 01:06:05,373
That is like insanity personified.
1281
01:06:05,373 --> 01:06:06,956
- Its so brilliant.
1282
01:06:08,203 --> 01:06:09,993
- That is so good.
1283
01:06:09,993 --> 01:06:11,812
- [Voiceover] 28 signed examples would be
1284
01:06:11,812 --> 01:06:13,682
produced and sold around the world.
1285
01:06:13,682 --> 01:06:15,543
Price, 35,000 Euros.
1286
01:06:15,543 --> 01:06:17,431
- That, photographed against nude legs,
1287
01:06:17,431 --> 01:06:19,031
is going to be fantastic, no?
1288
01:06:19,031 --> 01:06:20,242
- Yeah.
1289
01:06:20,242 --> 01:06:22,550
- That's insane, isn't it?
1290
01:06:22,550 --> 01:06:24,008
You remember when we were making that
1291
01:06:24,008 --> 01:06:25,591
just the other day.
1292
01:06:27,511 --> 01:06:28,594
It's so nuts.
1293
01:06:30,389 --> 01:06:33,806
(soulful chanting music)
1294
01:06:36,461 --> 01:06:37,410
- [Voiceover] While some merely
1295
01:06:37,410 --> 01:06:38,861
take a break during this white night,
1296
01:06:38,861 --> 01:06:42,385
Marc Jacobs grabs a bare 45 minutes sleep.
1297
01:06:42,385 --> 01:06:45,802
(soulful chanting music)
1298
01:07:02,834 --> 01:07:04,577
- [Woman] How you do feel?
1299
01:07:04,577 --> 01:07:05,744
- Much better.
1300
01:07:07,171 --> 01:07:08,056
(cough)
1301
01:07:08,056 --> 01:07:09,474
- 32
1302
01:07:09,474 --> 01:07:11,474
(laugh)
1303
01:07:46,141 --> 01:07:49,095
- Wow, I love that so much.
1304
01:07:49,095 --> 01:07:50,215
- [Voiceover] It's nine in the morning.
1305
01:07:50,215 --> 01:07:51,725
The show is at three.
1306
01:07:51,725 --> 01:07:54,764
And most of this dress is
still just pinned together.
1307
01:07:54,764 --> 01:07:56,205
Yet, nobody seems ruffled.
1308
01:07:56,205 --> 01:07:58,383
And just as well, because,
even its final shape
1309
01:07:58,383 --> 01:08:00,133
is still pretty hazy.
1310
01:08:01,674 --> 01:08:03,713
- Um, the other thing is Jane,
1311
01:08:03,713 --> 01:08:07,335
you could put like a
little tie, a canvas tie,
1312
01:08:07,335 --> 01:08:09,832
you can attach something
here and here, like a tie.
1313
01:08:09,832 --> 01:08:11,415
Do you have a tape?
1314
01:08:15,022 --> 01:08:15,903
Jolissima
1315
01:08:15,903 --> 01:08:17,903
(laugh)
1316
01:08:21,903 --> 01:08:24,153
- [Man] I think she should.
1317
01:08:25,293 --> 01:08:26,448
I think she should.
1318
01:08:26,448 --> 01:08:29,090
(down tempo piano music)
1319
01:08:29,090 --> 01:08:32,507
(Polaroid camera noises)
1320
01:08:49,858 --> 01:08:51,441
- Aw, that's yours.
1321
01:09:00,018 --> 01:09:02,674
- It's finished, she's the last one?
1322
01:09:02,674 --> 01:09:03,507
- Yeah
1323
01:09:03,507 --> 01:09:04,529
(cheers)
1324
01:09:04,529 --> 01:09:08,612
- Let's, let me get
photographed, and... kidding.
1325
01:09:13,036 --> 01:09:15,276
- [Voiceover] Noon, the
accessories are done.
1326
01:09:15,276 --> 01:09:17,306
But in the workshops, the race goes on.
1327
01:09:17,306 --> 01:09:20,767
Nervous tension turning to hilarity.
1328
01:09:20,767 --> 01:09:22,850
(laughs)
1329
01:09:39,503 --> 01:09:42,586
(parade music plays)
1330
01:09:45,268 --> 01:09:47,041
- [Voiceover] In the Petit Palais,
1331
01:09:47,041 --> 01:09:48,690
the models are getting ready.
1332
01:09:48,690 --> 01:09:50,612
If the Marc Jacobs show
is one of the highlights
1333
01:09:50,612 --> 01:09:52,150
of the New York fashion calendar,
1334
01:09:52,150 --> 01:09:54,220
the Louis Vuitton show comes at the close
1335
01:09:54,220 --> 01:09:55,778
of the Paris Fashion Week.
1336
01:09:55,778 --> 01:09:57,260
Meaning the most sought after models
1337
01:09:57,260 --> 01:09:59,430
will have cat-walked
an average of 90 shows,
1338
01:09:59,430 --> 01:10:03,332
with hairdos and makeup to beat the band.
1339
01:10:03,332 --> 01:10:05,460
Given the toll it's taken
on their hair and skin,
1340
01:10:05,460 --> 01:10:09,293
some have become almost
allergic to cosmetics.
1341
01:10:33,243 --> 01:10:34,826
12:48 and counting.
1342
01:10:45,202 --> 01:10:47,123
Some of the linings are pretty shaky.
1343
01:10:47,123 --> 01:10:51,290
And even worse, several
dresses, are looking flakey.
1344
01:11:18,515 --> 01:11:20,214
Accident prevention rules.
1345
01:11:20,214 --> 01:11:22,424
Fabrizio Viti trashes
the soles of his shoes
1346
01:11:22,424 --> 01:11:25,167
to make them more adherent
and to avoid a fall.
1347
01:11:25,167 --> 01:11:26,945
- It's very psychological as well,
1348
01:11:26,945 --> 01:11:31,650
if a shoe is not scratched,
we think the girl gonna fall.
1349
01:11:31,650 --> 01:11:32,483
- [Interviewer] And has uh,
1350
01:11:32,483 --> 01:11:34,979
a girl falling at the Vuitton show?
1351
01:11:34,979 --> 01:11:35,812
- No
1352
01:11:35,812 --> 01:11:36,688
- [Interviewer] Never happens?
1353
01:11:36,688 --> 01:11:40,411
- Sorry but, I have to touch, you know.
1354
01:11:40,411 --> 01:11:41,396
- [Voiceover] They think of everything.
1355
01:11:41,396 --> 01:11:43,367
Each model has her own
emergency bag containing
1356
01:11:43,367 --> 01:11:45,455
a bale, safety pins, a g-string, tampons,
1357
01:11:45,455 --> 01:11:47,527
a shoe horn, a cutter, adhesive tape,
1358
01:11:47,527 --> 01:11:49,860
and a roll on fluff remover.
1359
01:11:57,815 --> 01:11:59,746
- [Voiceover] Not quite
finished when you have to thread
1360
01:11:59,746 --> 01:12:02,496
a needle after a sleepless night.
1361
01:12:23,124 --> 01:12:24,351
- [Voiceover] Almost 2 pm.
1362
01:12:24,351 --> 01:12:25,804
As soon as each garment is finished,
1363
01:12:25,804 --> 01:12:29,244
it's immediately couriered to the show.
1364
01:12:29,244 --> 01:12:32,585
(motorcycle hums)
1365
01:12:32,585 --> 01:12:36,724
(tense orchestral music)
1366
01:12:36,724 --> 01:12:38,613
Meanwhile rehearsals have already started.
1367
01:12:38,613 --> 01:12:40,804
Marc Jacobs discovers the giant screens,
1368
01:12:40,804 --> 01:12:43,234
except the video isn't
the one he was expecting.
1369
01:12:43,234 --> 01:12:44,674
- There's a storm.
1370
01:12:44,674 --> 01:12:47,044
- [Camille] We tried with that ...
1371
01:12:47,044 --> 01:12:48,377
- What happened?
1372
01:12:50,564 --> 01:12:53,303
Why did you do that Camille?
1373
01:12:53,303 --> 01:12:57,053
(dialogue obscured by music)
1374
01:13:04,074 --> 01:13:06,013
- [Voiceover] In the
workshops they're still at it.
1375
01:13:06,013 --> 01:13:08,453
2:28 pm, two garments are still resisting.
1376
01:13:08,453 --> 01:13:10,775
One, a safari jacket with
a liberty layered bag,
1377
01:13:10,775 --> 01:13:12,823
was such a headache that
the reluctant buttons
1378
01:13:12,823 --> 01:13:14,490
remain to be fitted.
1379
01:13:17,050 --> 01:13:18,450
- [Voiceover] And, a
lampion sleeved jacket
1380
01:13:18,450 --> 01:13:21,867
with a back lacing, straight out of Hell.
1381
01:13:27,690 --> 01:13:28,856
- [Voiceover] Yet, in 30 minutes,
1382
01:13:28,856 --> 01:13:31,043
it must all be on the catwalk.
1383
01:13:31,043 --> 01:13:34,793
(mid tempo electronic music)
1384
01:13:43,125 --> 01:13:46,375
(French speaker on PA)
1385
01:13:48,089 --> 01:13:50,922
(speaking French)
1386
01:14:06,356 --> 01:14:07,802
- Please don't move around too much
1387
01:14:07,802 --> 01:14:09,201
when we've looked at you okay?
1388
01:14:09,201 --> 01:14:10,661
Stay still!
1389
01:14:10,661 --> 01:14:14,041
And nope, this isn't on
your shoulder is it Sveta?
1390
01:14:14,041 --> 01:14:16,300
Just hold it down please, for now.
1391
01:14:16,300 --> 01:14:19,930
- Yeah, I'm coming over
with that one on the bike.
1392
01:14:19,930 --> 01:14:22,190
Okay, see you, bye bye.
1393
01:14:22,190 --> 01:14:25,607
(tense orchestral music)
1394
01:14:27,387 --> 01:14:29,262
- [Voiceover] The last jacket is ready,
1395
01:14:29,262 --> 01:14:31,095
but a new race begins.
1396
01:14:32,142 --> 01:14:36,309
In New York, two dresses
never made it to the show.
1397
01:14:42,201 --> 01:14:45,951
(energetic electronic music)
1398
01:15:17,371 --> 01:15:19,750
We're in the center of Paris, a Pont Neuf.
1399
01:15:19,750 --> 01:15:21,978
The show is at the Petit
Palais on the Champs-Élysées,
1400
01:15:21,978 --> 01:15:24,561
about 15 minutes in
traffic jams from here.
1401
01:15:24,561 --> 01:15:27,811
A show that starts in one minutes time.
1402
01:15:29,480 --> 01:15:32,647
And the dispatch rider hasn't arrived.
1403
01:15:41,267 --> 01:15:45,434
But Janet Jackson is already
sitting in the front row.
1404
01:15:46,332 --> 01:15:50,499
(crowd noises, music, and cameras)
1405
01:15:53,722 --> 01:15:54,805
- Eh, eh, eh!
1406
01:15:58,978 --> 01:16:01,811
(motorcycle revs)
1407
01:16:04,296 --> 01:16:05,129
- [Woman 1] Lapel.
1408
01:16:05,129 --> 01:16:09,296
- [Woman 2] They're out,
through there, doing something.
1409
01:16:10,906 --> 01:16:13,239
(footsteps)
1410
01:16:16,026 --> 01:16:17,308
- [Voiceover] The missing
jackets have arrived,
1411
01:16:17,308 --> 01:16:19,189
but of course, they have
to be touched up again,
1412
01:16:19,189 --> 01:16:20,356
one last time.
1413
01:16:21,684 --> 01:16:24,517
(speaking French)
1414
01:16:28,804 --> 01:16:32,971
Marc Jacobs checks the lacing
on the lampion sleeved jacket.
1415
01:16:35,615 --> 01:16:38,754
The mob of photographers
is growing impatient.
1416
01:16:38,754 --> 01:16:40,983
- Excuse me, excuse me.
1417
01:16:40,983 --> 01:16:43,621
(chandeliers twinkling)
1418
01:16:43,621 --> 01:16:46,191
- [Voiceover] But now, the
chandeliers are being raised.
1419
01:16:46,191 --> 01:16:48,951
The Vuitton show is about to begin.
1420
01:16:48,951 --> 01:16:53,034
(contemplative electronic music)
1421
01:17:41,791 --> 01:17:42,991
- [Marc] You saw us working on the shoes,
1422
01:17:42,991 --> 01:17:44,821
and the bags, and the clothes,
1423
01:17:44,821 --> 01:17:47,229
and I think each thing
influences the other.
1424
01:17:47,229 --> 01:17:48,751
You know, and you start to do a bag
1425
01:17:48,751 --> 01:17:50,090
that's like kind of more elaborate,
1426
01:17:50,090 --> 01:17:51,871
then you go back and look
at a piece of clothing
1427
01:17:51,871 --> 01:17:53,399
that you thought was pushed far enough,
1428
01:17:53,399 --> 01:17:55,351
but then you realize maybe
it should be pushed further,
1429
01:17:55,351 --> 01:17:58,551
and visa versa, it's
like such a long process
1430
01:17:58,551 --> 01:18:01,021
between choosing fabrics,
developing prints,
1431
01:18:01,021 --> 01:18:02,597
working on the embroideries.
1432
01:18:02,597 --> 01:18:04,330
I mean, you saw the
team, everyone has been
1433
01:18:04,330 --> 01:18:07,911
busy working on all of
the stuff for months.
1434
01:18:07,911 --> 01:18:09,879
It just comes together at a certain point,
1435
01:18:09,879 --> 01:18:13,399
and the momentum sort of builds,
and the time gets shorter
1436
01:18:13,399 --> 01:18:15,471
so you have to make decisions, you know,
1437
01:18:15,471 --> 01:18:19,901
and then, you're left
with what is the show.
1438
01:18:19,901 --> 01:18:22,984
(playful drum music)
1439
01:18:25,549 --> 01:18:28,299
Is it so horrible that it's good?
1440
01:18:30,049 --> 01:18:33,216
(uptempo piano music)
1441
01:18:37,311 --> 01:18:39,039
So it would be nice to see
all these things together
1442
01:18:39,039 --> 01:18:41,872
to see that we really can combine.
1443
01:18:47,439 --> 01:18:48,272
So insane.
1444
01:18:50,671 --> 01:18:52,754
That is sick in the head.
1445
01:19:11,821 --> 01:19:15,321
(Scottish bagpipes music)
1446
01:19:24,981 --> 01:19:26,351
So we took two fabrics sometimes,
1447
01:19:26,351 --> 01:19:30,541
and had them woven together,
and then we bleached them out.
1448
01:19:30,541 --> 01:19:32,239
Yeah, tragic.
1449
01:19:32,239 --> 01:19:35,739
(classical music remixed)
1450
01:19:40,610 --> 01:19:43,527
As screwy as it can be, the better.
1451
01:19:52,479 --> 01:19:55,312
(classical music)
1452
01:20:10,469 --> 01:20:12,333
(scissor cuts)
1453
01:20:12,333 --> 01:20:14,187
(steam hisses)
1454
01:20:14,187 --> 01:20:17,854
(contemplative piano music)
1455
01:20:41,796 --> 01:20:45,546
(energetic percussive music)
1456
01:20:56,159 --> 01:20:59,492
(chandeliers twinkling)
1457
01:21:02,459 --> 01:21:04,111
- Um, nice to meet you.
1458
01:21:04,111 --> 01:21:04,944
- Hi gorgeous.
1459
01:21:04,944 --> 01:21:05,777
Hi Dieter
1460
01:21:08,487 --> 01:21:09,619
- Fantastic
1461
01:21:09,619 --> 01:21:10,591
Fantastic
1462
01:21:10,591 --> 01:21:11,728
Incredible
1463
01:21:11,728 --> 01:21:13,028
Ah, really
1464
01:21:13,028 --> 01:21:13,861
Yes
1465
01:21:14,921 --> 01:21:15,754
It's fantastic
1466
01:21:15,754 --> 01:21:17,504
There's so many bags!
1467
01:21:19,935 --> 01:21:23,935
This is incredible, but
the bags, so many ideas.
1468
01:21:26,461 --> 01:21:28,074
Effects, fantastic.
1469
01:21:28,074 --> 01:21:28,907
- Good
1470
01:21:28,907 --> 01:21:29,894
- You aren't regretted.
1471
01:21:29,894 --> 01:21:31,243
- No, you aren't.
1472
01:21:31,243 --> 01:21:35,326
(contemplative electronic music)
103856
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