Original subtitles

SOUTHERN PACIFIC

At this age and age, You need to go a little while.

or at least wish take a few more steps

that any other person is willing to give

Subpack and sync by DanDee

Walsh wins Xcel Pro

Surfer AS 100 BEST WAVES

THE END OF THE MACHINE

That's it, boys.

Long flight.

Somewhat relaxing.

Take that tip.

We kind of get caught up in the weather and we missed the best day of March.

Part of what we do like surfers,

You screw up.

Not every trip we make we have perfect surfing,

and it always works out.

It just does not work that way.

Now we are at the end of summer,

and now my focus is shifting for the northern hemisphere

and the preparation for Hawaii.

When they foresee a strong El Ni o,

Brother

HOOKIPA BEACH

... everyone gets excited.

O El Ni o, basically like an unusual time pattern.

The Pacific Ocean is hotter than normal

SURFER

... and allows us to pick up many big waves.

I really started getting serious.

when Ian sat with me and Shaun one day

and said, "Be prepared, this may be the craziest winter of their lives. "

Brother

The last El Ni o was in 1998.

It was an incredible winter.

JANUARY 1998

There were many sessions of giant waves in Jaws.

Extreme surfing, extreme conditions,

simply day after day, of perfection.

PROJECTOR OF PLANTS AND TRAINER

Taylor Knox caught a wave in Mexico,

who stood the test of time.

A really strong El Ni o happens so rarely,

what a great opportunity to see what the limit is,

Until where the surf goes.

I think you will see the biggest waves being surfed ...

SURFER

... in the history of our sport.

Jaws basically has the largest wave in the world.

And Ian lives straight away.

So he's in a very unusual position.

SURFER

If Jaws is rolling, the world of Surfing descends on your shoulders.

Are you ready to good waves of one to two meters,

but it's only about 18 meters.

And something you can surf,

You know, you can paddle in there.

The way that Ian and these guys are surfing

they are surfing like they are waves of two meters.

You have to laugh. It's difficult to understand, you know.

SURFER

There is almost no other place which offered this intensity.

A wave can drag you tens of meters under the water.

With a Violence that you can not

control their arms, you hit yourself,

He really thinks he's going to die.

Fight and try to force

can burn more oxygen than you can.

a calculated risk that you assume,

and you manage and minimizes risks

with your physical conditioning

and mentally prepared.

325, Ian.

A good ride, good work ...

and stop!

Good test.

Ian is one of our more dedicated athletes.

In fact, throughout the curriculum,

he probably participated more training ...

HIGH PERFORMANCE COACH

... that any other if I remember.

You go from things that are very practical, which we call

training.

All these things, you can see

directly the relationship with better surfing.

The interesting thing is that Ian also pioneered the boundaries.

He participated in training where we challenge you,

and in this environment,

I think we see evolution in training for big waves,

in this idea of ​​triumph under pressure.

Fifteen seconds. Do you want to go? to the next stage. Let's go!

- You got it! Let's go! -Good work, my friend.

He rehearses his techniques

in the sense of making the right decision on the right time,

when the parameters are very high.

If they get caught by a wave of 20 meters,

need to have all the skills and techniques

FREE DIVING COACH

to hold the breath in a emergency that can last a minute,

and you need to do this several times,

with intervals of only 15 seconds.

Your violent shark.

The effort by which we make them pass the equivalent

of any highly trained, with whom we already work.

You just know that I'm giving me the maximum

to stay the most comfortable possible

in the less comfortable environment which I can imagine.

He is doing dives of 50 meters,

apneia of almost five minutes.

Need to be prepared to the maximum level,

otherwise, will find,

that wave that can not support.

DECEMBER 2012

CORTES BANK 180 KM WEST OF SAN DIEGO

From experience,

DK saved my life, no doubt.

I drowned in Cortes Bank.

The ambulance is on its way.

What happened?

You were pulled down. and simply stayed ...

The board hit you in the head, on the belly or somewhere else?

If it was not for DK be l ...

PLYWOOD PROJECTOR

... you know, it's the big reason Greg's still alive.

If it were not for him,

heroically, abandoning jet ski to

hundreds of kilometers, in the middle of the sea,

to take my body without life,

and then hold me and cross two more or three big waves ...

You will not find any other rescue team like this in the world.

Saving someone's life, especially

of someone like him, so close,

really motivated me to do what we do today.

I and my brothers, we are all a little younger

but at home we moved, taking care of each other.

And that's because of Ian and his brothers.

We used to call them of "the squirrels".

Ian was the knight and they, their little helpers ...

DAD

... and it was very good.

If Shaun and DK are there, the twins, he's fine.

Like, they'll get him, no matter what happened

Mother

Make things easier.

It's never easy, but it makes it easier.

What a crazy combination, the four brothers.

They are a team.

He is the oldest brother, we all follow in his footsteps.

If he were a degenerate,

Brother

we would probably have followed by this way,

but he was a student exemplary in the collegiate.

My love and passion for big waves.

I would not be what, without my brothers.

It just would not work.

It seemed that even before of winter to begin,

he was working hard.

He kind of knew that there was an anticipation there,

since El Ni o was drawing

and the climate began to settle.

He is one of the few elite athletes in our sport.

And the twins, they kind of look different.

They are like their own natural training, I would say so.

really connect with yourself

and remain physically active, no matter what you do.

Beyond all science and the community supporting

and trying to help him to improve in large waves,

I think it's just important he surfed, for the sake of surfing.

There is no competition, the waves They're as big as they can be ...

connect with your friends and enjoy,

and that is an important part of this program.

My favorite type surfer

who gets to have fun with everything.

If the wave of one meter or 25,

he will still be able to go there and have fun.

Guys like Ian are the guys in which really inspires me, for this.

Basically, in each high seas, you have a decision to make,

because there will be a competition that you need to worry about

or if you are going to surf the waves that really want, that the big bid.

When are you leaving?

I go out tomorrow night, probably, to Oahu,

for the competition.

I would like to go to Jaws, s to deferrujar.

How do you account for everything here?

So much.

What you mean? You have two children.

Yes, children will be easy after that deal with all these things.

Competitions in the world circuit for about 11 years.

When I was stopping, Ian was just beginning,

trying to qualify to the circuit.

And I said, "Dude, there's no one your age

behind the bid of the great wave ".

So I went to Ian and said,

"Let's become partners who surf big waves together. "

NOVEMBER 2007

I think he made the right choice

on surfing the big waves enough and yet be competitive

events and everything.

Any wave?

It's blowing a lot.

Dude, it's very uneven.

See how big the second wave.

It would be difficult to maintain the position, with all this turbulence.

The sea was kind of weak and strange,

the wind was totally wrong.

What do you want to do?

I think I'll get out.

I'm going to stop in Kuau, get things and I'm going.

We're very late.

Have fun l .

He decided to go to Honulua Bay,

and I think he decided shoot with arrows.

It really complicates things when you try and do what Ian does.

He really focused on surfing giant waves in Jaws,

and she's really in love for surfing in competitions.

The waves are with a quarter of the size.

So they will not see you again. attend the event?

It's going well now.

My battery changed from the third day for today, the second day,

and this has become utter madness to get everything ready

and pack up to go to Oahu.

simply insane, all this season of competition.

I try to help him whenever I can.

He tries to balance both, which is not an easy task.

Just before my battery,

I was warming myself on some new boards.

In the first wave, I climbed it and she literally broke.

I thought, "This is ... Is this really happening? "

- On a wave. "On a wave, like this?"

I can only improve from this point.

Welcome to HIC Pro 2015, a $ 100,000 event.

Ian Walsh, ten years ago, winning this event,

and of course, former finalist,

going very well in the Triple Crown Vans of surfing, in the last year.

If you know Ian, he's out. seeking the biggest wave in the world.

Jack Robinson, 17 years old, a phenomenon in Australia.

It will be a good wave punctuation for theft.

Ian ... let's see. Red, Ian Walsh.

Here we go. Jack Robinson in action, firing in front.

Jack Robinson, in white, in first, Ian Walsh, in second.

He is trying to improve on 5.67.

Nice wave.

And the alarm sounds.

Ian Walsh, an excellent surfing experience.

He ripped Robo out of the first place.

Testing microphone. Yellow, leather. Red leather.

Ian, nice to meet you.

good to see more of Ian Walsh.

"My parables, Ian. -Thank you.

I'll say hello to the 4th grade class of my mother, who is watching,

Pukalani School in Maui.

Hello, Pukalani School!

Ian was well taken care of. Uncle Ian detonated.

With you guys.

It's good to see you. -Right.

And here we go, 23 minutes left for two more surfers to go to the final

along with Kaito Kino and Billy Kemper.

a takeoff in turbulent waters for Ian Walsh.

Putting the level here for the semifinal number two.

Surfing theft.

Beautiful combined curve maneuver.

Here we go, Ian Walsh.

the famous Ian Walsh right there.

Jack Robinson on the second wave.

Well, that will solve it. the second semifinal.

Ian Walsh and Jack Robinson, advancing, in first and second, final

to face Billy Kemper and Kaito Kino.

And we're on our way to the final.

-Ian Walsh. -Ian Walsh.

A beautiful exit, slide in the curve to the top.

An aggressive curve, down again, another turn,

a little more aggressive, the second turn.

My goodness, I could not wish a better start as a competitor.

We got Billy coming out.

Let's see the closing maneuver.

And right behind him, Ian Walsh, quickly reaching that 9.93.

With that chill, and he is in the lead.

And it is simply a return of victory at this point.

There are few people

As good as he is in waves. small, and especially large,

and proof of this their performance in Sunset Beach.

Look at Ian Walsh, it is on fire.

Billy Kemper, he stayed with 5.6 in this event ...

You are one, now, twice champion of HIC Pro,

2005 and now in 2015,

of Maui, Ian Walsh!

Back to the bike. right after that.

Right.

Winter has come.

What a day.

Damn it, I'm so excited!

It's so good to win a tournament.

Oh, my God, I'm so electric.

But it's so good. So many times, I've been so close to achieving this.

... for Ian Walsh,

and certainly for all children

of his mother's class, at the Pukalani School ...

EAST Airport Joint Base

BOX OFFICE

4:20 p.m.

Good job. Parab ns.

I had fun.

I'm so excited.

Thank you guys.

Surely it would not have been possible without you all, folks,

we are all one great unity,

Therefore, Thank you and have fun tonight.

I do not know about this year.

Let's just pray that all right, for the safety of all,

because everyone is anxious to continue.

With the winter season with El Ni o arriving,

there are faces that really Believe and want to surf

in waves of 25 meters per year,

and, the limit point, you know, the size of the wave that can surf,

depends on the desire of each.

It will always progress.

For me, sit here and say:

"No, in our generation, no one will get over it, "

Stupidity.

On the right day,

with the right conditions, with the right security team.

Probably see someone this year that would do the impossible.

You can feel the tension in the air,

but I can always understand how much fun they have.

They prepare the day before, Wake up at daybreak ...

JANUARY 4

Prediction: 3.7m by 16.7 seconds Estimated Front Height: 14.5m

The first high sea of ​​the year in Jaws It's always very exciting.

Everyone is a little nervous and excited to see each other.

It has that energy in the air that you can not reproduce.

Almost as if we were entering

in a gladiator battle every time we go there,

Like, you do not know. what will happen

AQUATIC SECURITY

I was not in fact here this morning

Then we slow everything down. instead of starting at six o'clock,

we simply decided come back with things

And let's not get tired of staying out here waiting for the waves.

The winds come,

but there is no wind now, the faster we get out of here

the better it will be.

The first thing you really feel the texture of the ocean.

So you feel if there is wind or if the sea is agitated.

There is a lot of refraction coming from the rocks.

You feel the energy of the sea,

and it's really when Things go right in the day.

Ian is paddling. Ian is starting.

It was a difficult one.

It was very entertaining.

Keep an eye out, here comes the sequence.

Take the rope. Take the rope.

All right?

Right. or Greg.

or Ian.

Ian de p .

I think I cut myself ugly.

We're heading back to the boat. Ian cut his finger.

Prepare the boat.

-Do you think I can still surf? -Yes.

Just wrap it around. Sew then.

I had a small solution in the middle of the day.

The back of the helm cut my finger

practically to the bone.

I made a quick bandage and returned to the sea,

and I got another cool wave which was very unstable.

I ended up taking a break to relax

and the waves stayed strange soon after.

That small dose of wind does the difference between day and night.

See nothing and have salt water in the eyes ...

Basically like jumped from a bridge

without knowing what is down there.

On a very good day in Jaws, You could go and get a wave.

at seven, eight, nine o'clock.

Finally we gathered the whole team,

and I'll have my finger sewn tonight,

make sure I did not break no tendencies or anything.

I think it was a mean day today, but it was a good start.

It's just the beginning.

Stretch. Good. Close.

Stretch.

Good. Now go down. his hand completely.

If there is a competition, a mari pica,

And you need to surf tomorrow, I could protect him.

It is better to stay out of the water for a few days.

Yeah, I'm aiming for the 10th.

-Right. -Then, 6 days would be my goal.

The whole history of wave surfing giants very interesting.

You know, these guys are pioneers.

They will l without strings and without safety equipment.

There has always been this idea that anything over ten meters

it starts to get very dangerous for surfing,

this impossible limit of size.

And then there was the introduction of this type of surfing with trailer.

Basically, you can climb on a board,

could be placed in a great wave.

It can surf ten or 15 waves of this type

because you can position much more.

You have a machine that can traveling at 65 kilometers per hour,

and if it has a wave of 15 meters in that direction, go and get it.

The guys would not surf all year, they would come to take the 15-meter ones.

insane.

You take any ordinary person to surfing paddling in Jaws,

can not get a wave, and if caught,

will be totally annihilated.

The revolution of towing surf in the showed that it was possible to survive

to much larger waves than we imagined.

The tow surfing helped establish

the jet ski as a security tool

and for everything you do in the ocean.

It was really the step for the next one. evolution of giant wave surfing.

I used to compete paddling with the boards,

and had the idea that I could do

these boards be faster.

That's when Ian, Greg and some other guys

they began to row these things.

We make this conscious decision to stop with the trailer surfing

and return to rowing.

All the speed at which the wave travels when it reaches 15 meters

Too fast for drawing standard board Everything needs to change.

Are they ready? I'm not sure.

No one has done this before, then no one knows.

Chris Christenson, he has the details

I do not think any other plank designer has.

So I plan to find something Give us a little more

and that every time I get sick,

or because I went down the wave too fast.

After every big mar that he surfs,

we talked to each other, shortly thereafter.

Have this trail more parallel up there

will allow plank to work better at the base of the wave,

we will allow you to paddle faster with shoulders farther apart

and have a larger syrup, will give you more maneuverability.

If they can trust me before entering the water,

this leaves them at an advantage in the game.

JANUARY, 10

Preview 3.9m in 14.7 seconds Estimated Front Height: 13m

The forecast looks very good,

probably the best of the year.

Do you think it's the size What are Ian looking for?

No, Ian is looking for for as long as possible.

It just ... looks like the sea is not here yet

I do not know, markers simply they are not obvious.

I think we're just going to start now and continue with our plan

and go to l at first light,

hoping it gets better throughout the morning.

The best conditions till now.

The fact of the forecast we have indicated light winds

aroused much more interest of surfers around the world.

Concentration of people in the morning was lighter,

so you could stand and begin to line up with the waves

any way he wanted, where he wanted to pick them up.

I think the board of a guy passed well above me at the end of the tube.

And so, according to more people arrive,

the place you take it the waves dictation,

based on where he's stuck in the crowd.

You know, when you're turning around, trying to paddle for a giant wave,

and you have people on your left, and on the right,

positioning itself, calling ...

The press is there. H helicopters flying everywhere,

drones buzzing in your head,

boats passing one upon the other, It's just chaos.

I surfed in Jaws for 15 years,

and I will not go there anymore because it's just a crazy zone.

It's not fun, it's very dangerous.

The last thing I want to do To hurt someone with the board.

When you make mistakes.

You know, you're surfing accordingly. with the crowd, not with what he wants.

When you have 50 people l , I definitely do not feel comfortable

Ian, on the other hand, It seems to go well.

Let's get a second wave.

To stay with my brother in the water in Jaws It's something I can not even explain.

probably one of the moments more special.

There is nothing that we can not be, It is the best feeling in the world.

On most days, we take turns, making the security of each other,

and this gives us all a chance to surf.

Only three or four very good sequences came today,

in a period of eight to ten hours.

The climate and all things are here, but the sea.

The waves are very small.

I will be impressed if they really hit it.

A great contribution for evolution

of the sport, in fact, the security.

And the most notable is the inflatable clothing. that we have developed.

I had the idea of inflatable bathing suit

for an experiment of near death in the Mavericks.

December 2010

I was getting old, He was married, having children,

I just felt it was too dangerous to be worth it.

It was something that was necessary, because the sport has reached a level

in which we were losing people.

You know, that was not acceptable.

When you fall, you pull a rope,

the costume inflates and takes you to the surface.

You will not think:

"You know what? I'm sure. because I have the suit. "

You do not want to have that attitude.

What happens when you are in a situation where your dress is active?

Or in a situation in which his costume does not activate?

So, because of the suit,

You have many more people than you. they would be there if it were not for him.

People, in certain places, they became uncontrollable, therefore.

This is the paradox, of course.

It saved lives, but in a way,

I feel it put at risk lives of people

that they would not be there, without the suit.

Are you going surfing in? Any place in the world,

must have a safety plan and a second reservation,

and another plan after that.

Most people think that the suit is the safety plan.

And they assume that the I will rescue them.

Certainly it was morally difficult not start,

when it began to get very full.

I could never live knowing

What was I supposed to be? l working with this group,

which I consider my family,

and that something happened because I was not taking care of them,

I was taking care of someone else

that had nothing to do with our operation.

I do not think it's the right of somebody say what can or can not,

but when you cross that line of not following the safety protocol,

how to be able to care first of all,

You kind of crossed the line.

and need to rethink about what he's doing there.

If you look at the inflatable costume,

yes, it's a nightmare, on certain days, in certain waves ...

but the sport simply became incredible because of it.

In the fifteenth, we had a sea which was expected to be

bigger than anything which we had all winter,

maybe in my life.

So, you're lining up to be a monumental day for the paddled surf.

Prediction 5.5m in 18.2 seconds Estimated Frontal Height: 22.5m

Beautiful setting.

15th of January

Bring towing boards was part of the discussion,

but I'm stubbornly trying to row.

I think we are all a little scared,

it's kind of worried with how great it will be today,

but we hope it is, in some way, controllable.

In fact, I'm very nervous now

for having to surf there.

I do not know, I have this strange feeling.

Certainly shaken. No one day to show feelings ...

I'm a little out of control, certainly.

Greg was basically sick all the time.

He could not surf. Therefore, Greg ended up doing the security.

It's very difficult to do well. on a day like this.

You know how much you waited for a day like this,

to get surf.

Everything we look for, dropping big waves,

was pointing to this day.

I had never seen Jaws burst that way in my life.

Two hours, we're leaving.

Watch.

As if you were rehearsing to get the rhythm,

because the wave moves very fast

and there is a lot of water hitting his face.

A perfect example of: "Be careful what you want".

Heating!

Shane, come on up!

Shane.

Yes, Shane. It was amazing.

You caught an incredible wave, did not you?

It just felt as if the ocean was under control.

It was not like a normal day, where you can

have fun, like, everyone was ...

Come on, come on.

Come on, come on.

Are you okay? -My neck.

"What?" -My neck.

Here Shaun Walsh.

DK has a possible injury in the cervical area.

I'm tingling a lot and my neck is sore.

Take me with Shaun.

I could look into everyone's eyes,

and say, "My God, that was what happened in Cortes ".

It was the reverse situation.

DK was l , he saved Greg's life,

and now, Greg is doing what he can.

It was just kind of surreal.

Like, my heart sank, you know?

I did not know how serious it was, or what was happening.

DK, do you want to call the emergency?

I need an ambulance.

Do not call Mom.

No matter how good the waves are, This is the priority, it does not matter.

We took it with great security.

The goal is to simply take it to a higher level of care.

When it happens, There is not much we can do.

Shaun, he and Luke, everybody trying to go with me,

but looking at how good the waves were, wanted them to stay.

Once in life the conditions of the sea stay like this.

We stayed out and this has turned into

a very important day of my life.

I just took a wave in the face.

and I got no advantage for a while.

I saw him enter this wave,

and well when I saw him stand by, I thought, "He's in too much."

And, you know, when you're there, Sometimes you have to take the risk.

And he was from p all the time in which the wave descended.

I thought he was going to jump.

You know what happened, and some of the surfer here today,

You know, history was made, certainly.

Yes, today was amazing, but as soon as I caught that wave,

reality hit and all that I could think, it was in DK.

Nothing was broken, nothing fractured.

All exams and resonances were good.

Now, for the next one, I have to wear this cervical collar,

It's kind of a lie for a while. and wait for my body to recover.

It has been an intense January.

A week ago, we had one of the biggest days I've ever seen

with clean winds, in my whole life here.

I just felt that I never we will see all that

happen again,

until we get really old, cheering on a cliff.

And so, a great system appeared in the middle of the Pacific,

and here we are.

JANUARY 28

4.5m forecast in 20 seconds Estimated Front Height: 20m

Just have another chance with conditions like this

... kind of made me take a step behind and to value a little more

by the seas we are having now.

I thought my winter had finished after leaving the hospital,

Then I was discharged of doctors in Los Angeles.

He said that everything was in place.

I'm very grateful. I never thought that this would happen.

And it was horrible for him not to be able to surf, but he , without any doubts,

the best face on the jet ski, doing the security.

So I think of everything, the group feels much more comfortable and confident,

just by having it in the water.

Right, it's Greg.

Pay attention to Greg, boys. Pay attention.

I caught him.

Vit ria.

In this sport, you will definitely wants to see his friends do well.

For Greg, he caught a wave A few years ago ...

October 2012

... which was the best tube I already got Jaws.

And as he crossed, he fell, flying out of the tube.

He called it a trip. on the finish line.

You simply see how much time and energy

goes in each of these waves they are surfing

and how long does it take to get a day like this,

and it was really cool to see everything working for Greg today.

He took a tube and left. You could almost see

all energy and work who were employed in that wave,

kind, coming out of it.

Good, Greg!

We have Dorian surfing.

Part of what Jaws , type,

You surf for six hours,

you can have only one good opportunity on a wave.

About four hours later, I got one of the best waves I've had.

Everything finally fell into place.

Instead of focusing on the goal to surf the biggest wave of his life,

it is more about giving one step back

and enjoy all the little things

who took you there, and live these days.

The last El Ni o was in 1998.

There were only four El Ni os for real, in 40 years.

The best big waves I've ever seen.

I have surfed big waves It's 25 years.

Ian chose a path that really serves it.

I'm just blessed as a father.

Part of surfing simply Look at what comes next.

It's true what they say.

The greater the adversity, the greater the conquest.

And for me, it does not matter the size of the waves,

or stepping into the unknown,

Where do I want to be?