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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:08,520 --> 00:00:10,560 BIRDSONG 2 00:00:38,760 --> 00:00:42,040 I was going to say that it all began very simply, 3 00:00:42,040 --> 00:00:44,760 going off to the Suffolk coast to be a writer. 4 00:00:45,760 --> 00:00:50,040 But, looking back, I can see that it all began most precariously. 5 00:00:50,040 --> 00:00:52,280 I can remember the actual day. 6 00:00:52,280 --> 00:00:55,760 It was January and snow was falling on the sea. 7 00:00:59,280 --> 00:01:02,040 The situation was ordinary enough in its way. 8 00:01:02,040 --> 00:01:04,920 A young man beginning to get published, 9 00:01:04,920 --> 00:01:07,120 thick jerseys, a bike, 10 00:01:07,120 --> 00:01:10,320 and just enough money to last a few months if I was spartan. 11 00:01:11,320 --> 00:01:14,040 But the real beginning was childhood, of course. 12 00:01:16,280 --> 00:01:20,680 As a boy from a rural family apparently existing on air, 13 00:01:20,680 --> 00:01:23,040 I saw a very little world indeed. 14 00:01:24,520 --> 00:01:27,920 East Anglia was for me no more than a tight circle of villages 15 00:01:27,920 --> 00:01:31,840 around a market town, plus an annually visited beach, 16 00:01:31,840 --> 00:01:35,040 or rather a slipping wall of cold shingle 17 00:01:35,040 --> 00:01:38,760 which the sea monotonously piled up and pulled down. 18 00:01:40,280 --> 00:01:43,520 I felt the same parochial tenderness about this sea 19 00:01:43,520 --> 00:01:45,360 as I did about the meadows. 20 00:01:45,360 --> 00:01:49,280 Fields, really, gone to weed because of the agricultural depression. 21 00:01:51,280 --> 00:01:54,760 As I sighted this quite unimaginably immense liquid wall 22 00:01:54,760 --> 00:01:56,520 at the end of the coast road, 23 00:01:56,520 --> 00:01:59,680 with the Rotterdam-Harwich shipping riding its horizon, 24 00:01:59,680 --> 00:02:02,920 I can still recall how it sometimes revoked everything I felt 25 00:02:02,920 --> 00:02:04,760 for the interior. 26 00:02:04,760 --> 00:02:07,680 The sea makes us treacherous. 27 00:02:07,680 --> 00:02:11,480 It captures our senses and makes us faithless to the land. 28 00:02:12,480 --> 00:02:15,520 I found myself in a different state by the sea. 29 00:02:15,520 --> 00:02:19,520 Not freed, but in another kind of captivity. 30 00:02:23,040 --> 00:02:26,520 The entire ecology changes long before one even suspects 31 00:02:26,520 --> 00:02:28,680 the presence of the Suffolk sea. 32 00:02:29,760 --> 00:02:33,920 A 12-mile belt of what we call sandlings produces heaths 33 00:02:33,920 --> 00:02:37,520 and coniferous forests - pale, airy villages, 34 00:02:37,520 --> 00:02:41,040 like meadows and vast cloud formations. 35 00:02:47,280 --> 00:02:50,520 This is the country of our 7th century Swedish kings 36 00:02:50,520 --> 00:02:53,040 who lie buried in their ships at Sutton Hoo and whose palace 37 00:02:53,040 --> 00:02:57,520 is somewhere under the huge NATO bomber base at Bentwaters. 38 00:02:57,520 --> 00:02:59,560 JET ENGINE ROARS 39 00:03:06,040 --> 00:03:10,040 Screaming sea birds and screaming planes on practice runs 40 00:03:10,040 --> 00:03:12,040 and often profound silences. 41 00:03:17,280 --> 00:03:20,760 Also a cutting wind and an intriguing marine flora, 42 00:03:20,760 --> 00:03:23,920 which between them forced the gaze downwards to the ground. 43 00:03:25,040 --> 00:03:30,040 What half entranced, half shocked me about this coast as a boy 44 00:03:30,040 --> 00:03:32,360 was its prodigious wastefulness. 45 00:03:32,360 --> 00:03:36,520 Here, nature was humanly unmanageable and did what it liked. 46 00:03:42,040 --> 00:03:44,760 Considering that a number of important friendships 47 00:03:44,760 --> 00:03:47,440 were getting themselves established at this time, 48 00:03:47,440 --> 00:03:50,520 it's strange that I still see it as full of isolation. 49 00:03:51,520 --> 00:03:55,040 These friends included my first friends for life, as they say. 50 00:03:56,280 --> 00:03:58,360 Most importantly, James Turner. 51 00:03:59,520 --> 00:04:01,760 Turner was a fine nature poet. 52 00:04:02,760 --> 00:04:05,000 We were both publishers' readers 53 00:04:05,000 --> 00:04:07,520 and a lugubrious running conversation 54 00:04:07,520 --> 00:04:10,920 on how hard we had to toil at this task went on for years. 55 00:04:10,920 --> 00:04:14,520 But we both rather enjoyed it and I think we were very good at it. 56 00:04:15,520 --> 00:04:18,520 Although they contain close literary and other friendships, 57 00:04:18,520 --> 00:04:21,760 I still remember those beginning years as intensely solitary. 58 00:04:22,760 --> 00:04:25,800 MUSIC: Peter Grimes, Op. 33, Interlude V by Benjamin Britten 59 00:05:07,520 --> 00:05:10,040 This is where I began to shape my new life. 60 00:05:11,040 --> 00:05:15,040 I burned driftwood at night and walked many miles every day. 61 00:05:15,040 --> 00:05:17,040 I walked partly along the beach 62 00:05:17,040 --> 00:05:19,520 and partly in the stories I was working on. 63 00:05:20,520 --> 00:05:23,680 I wrote in what a friend, who found me this little house 64 00:05:23,680 --> 00:05:26,520 by the North Sea, called my solarium - 65 00:05:26,520 --> 00:05:30,520 an old-fashioned sealed glass room built out towards the sea 66 00:05:30,520 --> 00:05:34,840 and which caught the sun south, east and west. 67 00:05:37,280 --> 00:05:39,840 To the north were the marshes 68 00:05:39,840 --> 00:05:43,040 and the farmhouse which Benjamin Britten was later to buy. 69 00:05:43,040 --> 00:05:45,440 And there was a novel lying on the windowsill. 70 00:05:45,440 --> 00:05:48,520 It was called Indigo by Christine Weston. 71 00:05:48,520 --> 00:05:50,280 A novel about India. 72 00:05:50,280 --> 00:05:53,520 It was the first book I read as a writer in this house. 73 00:05:55,040 --> 00:05:58,360 Although I seem to have stayed put, I've always been enthralled 74 00:05:58,360 --> 00:06:01,360 by travel and I like its imaginative use in literature. 75 00:06:02,360 --> 00:06:05,360 It was here at Aldeburgh that both the local and world view, 76 00:06:05,360 --> 00:06:07,760 if you like, became far less separated 77 00:06:07,760 --> 00:06:10,040 than they are usually imagined to be. 78 00:06:11,040 --> 00:06:14,040 A very great deal of reading went on here. 79 00:06:14,040 --> 00:06:18,120 My first poets were the poets of the Second World War. 80 00:06:18,120 --> 00:06:20,280 That is the poetry I began to buy. 81 00:06:20,280 --> 00:06:24,480 Sidney Keys and the dazzling Keith Douglas. Both killed. 82 00:06:24,480 --> 00:06:28,520 I also read Auden and Eliot, of course, and Edwin Muir. 83 00:06:30,520 --> 00:06:34,120 But this listing of a few names doesn't describe at all 84 00:06:34,120 --> 00:06:37,040 what was happening to me then in reading terms. 85 00:06:37,040 --> 00:06:41,040 Sartre said people read 86 00:06:41,040 --> 00:06:43,760 because they want to write 87 00:06:43,760 --> 00:06:47,960 and that reading was a form of rewriting, and I think this is true. 88 00:06:49,520 --> 00:06:53,040 This beginner's house was found for me by Christine Nash, 89 00:06:53,040 --> 00:06:55,040 the wife of the artist John Nash. 90 00:06:56,040 --> 00:06:59,280 She was the kind of woman who made sure that you wouldn't plunge 91 00:06:59,280 --> 00:07:02,280 out of your depth before she pushed you off the diving board. 92 00:07:03,280 --> 00:07:07,040 She had a gift for making cautious people momentarily incautious 93 00:07:07,040 --> 00:07:09,120 when it was absolutely necessary. 94 00:07:10,120 --> 00:07:13,520 This is her when she was 18 in 1913. 95 00:07:13,520 --> 00:07:15,520 It's a self-portrait. 96 00:07:15,520 --> 00:07:19,040 She was a student at the Slade at the time and sharing rooms 97 00:07:19,040 --> 00:07:21,760 with Dora Carrington, who told John Nash to marry her, 98 00:07:21,760 --> 00:07:24,520 which he did towards the end of the First World War. 99 00:07:26,040 --> 00:07:28,280 They were middle age when I met them. 100 00:07:28,280 --> 00:07:31,120 Part of a group of painters and writers who had come to live 101 00:07:31,120 --> 00:07:33,640 in East Anglia immediately after the last war. 102 00:07:34,640 --> 00:07:37,240 It included Sir Cedric Morris 103 00:07:37,240 --> 00:07:40,040 and the Canadian artist Hugh Cronyn, 104 00:07:40,040 --> 00:07:42,560 who painted Christine when she was old, 105 00:07:42,560 --> 00:07:45,520 the Irish poet W.R. Rogers, 106 00:07:45,520 --> 00:07:48,040 and, of course, James Turner. 107 00:07:49,520 --> 00:07:52,280 It was Turner's form of conspiracy 108 00:07:52,280 --> 00:07:54,600 which meant the most to me at this time. 109 00:07:54,600 --> 00:07:58,520 His very English mixture of fierce opinions and delicacy. 110 00:08:00,400 --> 00:08:04,760 It was James Turner who opened the door of the West to me, 111 00:08:04,760 --> 00:08:06,760 as Hardy wrote. 112 00:08:06,760 --> 00:08:09,280 He used to come to Aldeburgh quite often. 113 00:08:09,280 --> 00:08:14,280 He stayed in this house with a man named Edward Clodd 114 00:08:14,280 --> 00:08:19,040 who popularised the writings of Darwin and Thomas Huxley. 115 00:08:20,040 --> 00:08:24,440 And he and other rationalists used to come and stay here 116 00:08:24,440 --> 00:08:26,840 during the First World War. 117 00:08:26,840 --> 00:08:31,040 This house is built on what they call the Crag Path, 118 00:08:31,040 --> 00:08:35,040 and Benjamin Britten lived a little further along on the other side. 119 00:08:35,040 --> 00:08:38,280 It's called the Crag Path because it's made of Coralline Crag 120 00:08:38,280 --> 00:08:41,280 from the Plio-Pleistocene period, which I've always thought 121 00:08:41,280 --> 00:08:44,760 was a good address for Victorian evolutionists. 122 00:08:47,040 --> 00:08:52,040 When I think of Ben or the Nashes or James Turner 123 00:08:52,040 --> 00:08:55,040 or a surprising number of these friends at the beginning, 124 00:08:55,040 --> 00:08:57,280 if I can describe them like this, 125 00:08:57,280 --> 00:09:00,840 I recognise a strong absence of elegy in myself... 126 00:09:01,840 --> 00:09:05,920 ..for some of them are dead and yet at the same time living, 127 00:09:05,920 --> 00:09:07,680 because I'm living. 128 00:09:07,680 --> 00:09:09,760 I suppose that must be it. 129 00:09:13,760 --> 00:09:17,280 I sometimes read James Turner's poems to Suffolk schoolchildren 130 00:09:17,280 --> 00:09:19,920 when I go to talk to them about books and writers 131 00:09:19,920 --> 00:09:24,040 for the Eastern Arts Association's Writers in School scheme. 132 00:09:24,040 --> 00:09:27,280 I've never been a teacher so it's all rather a novelty. 133 00:09:28,760 --> 00:09:31,920 This poet, who was a friend of mine, who's now dead, 134 00:09:31,920 --> 00:09:33,760 lived in this village, 135 00:09:33,760 --> 00:09:36,520 and one day the old man who had to wind the clock up 136 00:09:36,520 --> 00:09:39,520 and had done all his life was too ill to go up the tower, 137 00:09:39,520 --> 00:09:41,520 and rather than have the clock stop, 138 00:09:41,520 --> 00:09:44,760 my friend, the writer, went up each week to wind it up. 139 00:09:44,760 --> 00:09:48,040 The clock was enormously old, about 250 years old, 140 00:09:48,040 --> 00:09:50,920 so he wrote this poem and I'm going to read it to you. 141 00:09:50,920 --> 00:09:53,040 It's called Church Clock Winding. 142 00:09:56,520 --> 00:10:01,280 "So the men, the ancient men, the men with curiously cut clothes, 143 00:10:01,280 --> 00:10:02,920 "were this small. 144 00:10:02,920 --> 00:10:06,040 "Small as this doorway in the arch leading to steps 145 00:10:06,040 --> 00:10:10,520 "cut like an apple core from the rubble upthrust of the tower. 146 00:10:10,520 --> 00:10:15,240 "43 triangular steps go upward to the clock chamber. 147 00:10:15,240 --> 00:10:17,800 "43 to that room. 148 00:10:18,800 --> 00:10:21,440 "Then upwards still another rock-hewn flight. 149 00:10:21,440 --> 00:10:24,760 "The iron tongued, silent, listless bells 150 00:10:24,760 --> 00:10:28,760 "holding long echoes of forgotten sound. 151 00:10:28,760 --> 00:10:31,520 "And so the men, the ancient men, 152 00:10:31,520 --> 00:10:35,160 "toiled 43 steps upward with their clock, 153 00:10:35,160 --> 00:10:38,280 "a huge black jangling of wheels and cogs, 154 00:10:38,280 --> 00:10:41,520 "steel ropes and one great pendulum - 155 00:10:41,520 --> 00:10:45,160 "a cyclops eye swinging eternally. 156 00:10:45,160 --> 00:10:50,040 "But the men, the ancient men who have no names, 157 00:10:50,040 --> 00:10:52,680 "who brought here the clock to mark the hours 158 00:10:52,680 --> 00:10:55,800 "of their own and others' lives and deaths, 159 00:10:55,800 --> 00:10:58,040 "where are they now?" 160 00:10:58,040 --> 00:11:01,040 Now, if you go up a church tower, you think once a week 161 00:11:01,040 --> 00:11:04,040 or once a month, somebody perhaps for several generations 162 00:11:04,040 --> 00:11:06,280 had to go up and wind that great thing up, 163 00:11:06,280 --> 00:11:08,120 which you can hear ticking away. 164 00:11:08,120 --> 00:11:11,280 What I prefer really is not reading poems 165 00:11:11,280 --> 00:11:13,520 but speaking poems. 166 00:11:13,520 --> 00:11:16,680 There were poets, great poets like John Clare, 167 00:11:16,680 --> 00:11:19,840 who I hope you'll read one day, who used to have to, 168 00:11:19,840 --> 00:11:22,120 because he had so much work to do, as it were, 169 00:11:22,120 --> 00:11:25,120 speak their poems aloud in the daytime while they were doing... 170 00:11:25,120 --> 00:11:27,760 He was doing farm work, ploughing and things like that, 171 00:11:27,760 --> 00:11:30,120 because he hadn't got the time to write them down. 172 00:11:30,120 --> 00:11:34,520 He had to memorise them. This is how the poets shared the Bible, 173 00:11:34,520 --> 00:11:36,520 like the people wrote the psalms... 174 00:11:38,520 --> 00:11:40,560 CLASSICAL MUSIC 175 00:12:12,520 --> 00:12:15,760 The village lies folded away in one of the shallow valleys 176 00:12:15,760 --> 00:12:18,280 which dip into the East Anglian coastal plain. 177 00:12:19,280 --> 00:12:21,520 It is not a particularly striking place. 178 00:12:21,520 --> 00:12:23,520 It says little at first meeting. 179 00:12:24,520 --> 00:12:27,280 It occupies a little isthmus of London clay 180 00:12:27,280 --> 00:12:30,760 jutting from Suffolk's famous shelly sands and is approached by 181 00:12:30,760 --> 00:12:34,280 a spidery lane running off from the bit of straight, as they call it, 182 00:12:34,280 --> 00:12:38,040 meaning a handsome stretch of Roman road apparently going nowhere. 183 00:12:39,040 --> 00:12:42,520 It is the kind of road which hurries one past the situation. 184 00:12:42,520 --> 00:12:45,280 Centuries of traffic must have passed within yards 185 00:12:45,280 --> 00:12:47,520 of Akenfield without noticing it. 186 00:12:49,280 --> 00:12:54,280 Akenfield was a combination of witness, my own witness 187 00:12:54,280 --> 00:12:56,280 and that of three generations, 188 00:12:56,280 --> 00:12:59,040 and what you might call the home-fed imagination. 189 00:13:00,760 --> 00:13:04,280 I wrote it in this house in which I lived for a long time. 190 00:13:04,280 --> 00:13:06,040 16 years. 191 00:13:08,760 --> 00:13:12,760 It was as good a place as any for assessing oneself in the merry '60s, 192 00:13:12,760 --> 00:13:15,680 although not for assessing the world, you might think. 193 00:13:19,280 --> 00:13:21,760 The road in front was a kind of clock. 194 00:13:22,760 --> 00:13:26,520 6:30, the farm men and the road men on their bikes. 195 00:13:26,520 --> 00:13:29,520 8:30, the schoolchildren on theirs 196 00:13:29,520 --> 00:13:32,280 and office workers' cars going to Ipswich. 197 00:13:33,280 --> 00:13:35,760 And all the seasonal traffic, of course. 198 00:13:35,760 --> 00:13:38,520 Drills, pea lorries, harvesters. 199 00:13:40,040 --> 00:13:43,280 A few yards away at the back, it was totally different. 200 00:13:43,280 --> 00:13:44,920 No time at all. 201 00:13:45,920 --> 00:13:49,040 Just these ditches and vast uncut may hedges, 202 00:13:49,040 --> 00:13:51,680 which surrounded the fields belonging to the house 203 00:13:51,680 --> 00:13:53,280 when it was a farm. 204 00:13:54,280 --> 00:13:57,760 On Saturday afternoons, the village football club played visiting teams 205 00:13:57,760 --> 00:14:00,920 in the meadow next to the house with almost no spectators. 206 00:14:00,920 --> 00:14:05,760 I used to laugh and say that the house and its surroundings 207 00:14:05,760 --> 00:14:08,760 were minimal situations which encouraged a writer like myself 208 00:14:08,760 --> 00:14:11,040 to fill them out with my imagination. 209 00:14:11,040 --> 00:14:14,360 But this was just a sort of defensive thing one tells people. 210 00:14:14,360 --> 00:14:17,040 Nothing around here was minimal to me. 211 00:14:18,040 --> 00:14:21,520 This place was a full and intricate restatement 212 00:14:21,520 --> 00:14:23,920 of everything which my family had heard 213 00:14:23,920 --> 00:14:26,440 and seen and understood for hundreds of years. 214 00:14:26,440 --> 00:14:29,280 And that was what Akenfield was really about. 215 00:14:33,040 --> 00:14:35,280 All my great elms have disappeared. 216 00:14:36,720 --> 00:14:39,280 Those by the road had been broken by a crashed plane 217 00:14:39,280 --> 00:14:41,280 during the war, they said. 218 00:14:41,280 --> 00:14:45,040 I dug up a lot of this plane - a Spitfire, 219 00:14:45,040 --> 00:14:47,920 when I made the kitchen garden in 1960. 220 00:14:48,920 --> 00:14:51,360 There were rusty instruments full of worms 221 00:14:51,360 --> 00:14:54,120 and thin metal panels spread out under the grass. 222 00:14:56,280 --> 00:14:58,760 Debbage Aerodrome was close by. 223 00:14:58,760 --> 00:15:01,040 It was a marvellous walking place. 224 00:15:01,040 --> 00:15:02,840 Larks and flowers. 225 00:15:05,280 --> 00:15:07,760 There's something awful about old concrete. 226 00:15:07,760 --> 00:15:10,360 Something both squalid and sad, 227 00:15:10,360 --> 00:15:12,760 like the crumbling stadiums in Germany 228 00:15:12,760 --> 00:15:15,120 where the Nazis used to hold their rallies. 229 00:15:16,760 --> 00:15:19,920 My anthology of the poetry and stories of the Second World War, 230 00:15:19,920 --> 00:15:23,920 called Writing in a War, was inspired by this aerodrome 231 00:15:23,920 --> 00:15:25,520 to some extent. 232 00:15:26,520 --> 00:15:29,280 Old aerodromes are very potent places. 233 00:15:33,280 --> 00:15:36,720 "They told me when they cut the ready wheat, 234 00:15:36,720 --> 00:15:39,280 "the hares are suddenly homeless and afraid 235 00:15:39,280 --> 00:15:42,280 "and aimlessly run the stubble with scared feet, 236 00:15:42,280 --> 00:15:45,960 "finding no homes in sunlight or in shade. 237 00:15:46,960 --> 00:15:50,040 "It's morning, and the Hamptons have returned. 238 00:15:50,040 --> 00:15:54,680 "The crews are home, have stretched and laughed and gone. 239 00:15:55,680 --> 00:15:58,280 "Whence the planes came and the bright neon burned, 240 00:15:58,280 --> 00:16:00,880 "the sun has ridden the sky and made the dawn. 241 00:16:02,200 --> 00:16:06,280 "He walks distraught, circling the landing ground, 242 00:16:06,280 --> 00:16:09,280 "waiting the last one in that won't come back. 243 00:16:09,280 --> 00:16:13,520 "And like those hares, he wanders 'round and 'round, 244 00:16:13,520 --> 00:16:17,520 "lost and desolate on the close-cropped track." 245 00:16:22,520 --> 00:16:25,040 It's wonderful land all around here. 246 00:16:25,040 --> 00:16:27,280 Some of the finest corn land in Britain 247 00:16:27,280 --> 00:16:29,680 came back from the wars, as it were. 248 00:16:29,680 --> 00:16:33,280 Now the Akenfield harvests are cut where the bombers were stationed. 249 00:16:35,320 --> 00:16:37,360 ENGINE RUMBLES 250 00:16:43,040 --> 00:16:45,040 "I'm a man on my own. 251 00:16:46,040 --> 00:16:48,360 "I'm not interfered with much. 252 00:16:48,360 --> 00:16:51,520 "I'm on the plough and that's where I keep. 253 00:16:51,520 --> 00:16:57,120 "I'm alone nearly all my work time but I can't say that I feel lonely. 254 00:16:57,120 --> 00:16:59,760 "Not ever. Not at all. 255 00:16:59,760 --> 00:17:04,280 "People say, "There's Derek by himself, up on the great old field, 256 00:17:04,280 --> 00:17:06,520 ""turning 'round, going back. 257 00:17:06,520 --> 00:17:09,040 ""He's lonely. He must be lonely." 258 00:17:09,040 --> 00:17:11,440 "Not at all. 259 00:17:11,440 --> 00:17:15,040 "What is lonely? I'm watching the whole time, you see. 260 00:17:15,040 --> 00:17:18,040 "I might have more than 100 birds in my wake. 261 00:17:18,040 --> 00:17:20,440 "It's surprisingly interesting. 262 00:17:20,440 --> 00:17:23,680 "The gulls are with me, but now and then it's nice to see a face 263 00:17:23,680 --> 00:17:25,200 "and have a chat. 264 00:17:25,200 --> 00:17:28,880 "Some people come past and speak and that's good. Makes a break. 265 00:17:29,880 --> 00:17:32,680 "After all, I'm a man, not a bird, but, honestly... 266 00:17:33,680 --> 00:17:37,040 "..if I knew that I was lonely, I would pack it up tomorrow. 267 00:17:42,760 --> 00:17:46,760 This is Charsfield Church, which is my parish church for many years. 268 00:17:48,040 --> 00:17:50,280 I could only have been about ten or 11 269 00:17:50,280 --> 00:17:53,040 when I first began to explore old churches. 270 00:17:53,040 --> 00:17:56,040 It had more to do with inquisitiveness and magic 271 00:17:56,040 --> 00:17:58,640 than religion and architecture. 272 00:17:58,640 --> 00:18:01,520 They were all wide open, morning, noon and night then, 273 00:18:01,520 --> 00:18:04,120 and I used to wander miles from one to another, 274 00:18:04,120 --> 00:18:07,280 opening their vast carved doors, climbing belfries, 275 00:18:07,280 --> 00:18:10,760 staring, sniffing their strong old scents, 276 00:18:10,760 --> 00:18:13,520 reading inscriptions, poking about. 277 00:18:15,040 --> 00:18:18,520 They were like stories which one could actually enter 278 00:18:18,520 --> 00:18:21,520 or alternative worlds without keys. 279 00:18:21,520 --> 00:18:24,760 You just entered, stared, 280 00:18:24,760 --> 00:18:29,000 listened to a curious sound made by wind in high rooms 281 00:18:29,000 --> 00:18:30,840 plus a ticking of clocks. 282 00:18:30,840 --> 00:18:32,880 TICKING 283 00:18:42,280 --> 00:18:45,680 "The most compelling building in every English village and town 284 00:18:45,680 --> 00:18:47,280 "is a parish church. 285 00:18:47,280 --> 00:18:50,040 "It is the most history-soaked artefact 286 00:18:50,040 --> 00:18:52,760 "in the possession of a community. 287 00:18:52,760 --> 00:18:55,720 "The very silence of the huge arcaded room 288 00:18:55,720 --> 00:18:58,040 "around which a visitor casts his eye 289 00:18:58,040 --> 00:19:01,160 "warns him not to draw hollow, echoing conclusions. 290 00:19:02,160 --> 00:19:05,280 "These are the walls within which everything was said. 291 00:19:05,280 --> 00:19:07,840 "Centuries of birth words, 292 00:19:07,840 --> 00:19:11,280 "marriage words, law words. 293 00:19:11,280 --> 00:19:14,360 "death words, gossip. 294 00:19:15,360 --> 00:19:19,280 "The language of the hymn poets and the songwriters. 295 00:19:19,280 --> 00:19:22,040 "Of the Latin and English liturgies 296 00:19:22,040 --> 00:19:25,040 "and the immense Bible translation language. 297 00:19:26,040 --> 00:19:29,760 "All this language said here in the local accent. 298 00:19:31,280 --> 00:19:34,520 "This place has witnessed through the year the very creation 299 00:19:34,520 --> 00:19:37,920 "of literary and colloquial English as getting on for 1,000 years 300 00:19:37,920 --> 00:19:40,520 "of sermons battered away at human nature. 301 00:19:41,760 --> 00:19:46,040 "So it is a house of words as well as a house of wood and stone. 302 00:19:47,280 --> 00:19:51,520 "No old Church can be understood if one omits the eloquence factor." 303 00:19:52,520 --> 00:19:55,240 Eloquence, too, on the tombstones, of course. 304 00:19:56,240 --> 00:19:59,760 These are John Constable's aunts and uncles and cousins. 305 00:20:01,360 --> 00:20:04,280 The Constables were all riverside farmers and millers, 306 00:20:04,280 --> 00:20:08,040 and John turned their fields and buildings into what somebody called 307 00:20:08,040 --> 00:20:10,760 part of the landscape of every English mind. 308 00:20:11,760 --> 00:20:14,800 MUSIC: Rondo Pastorale by Ralph Vaughan Williams 309 00:20:43,760 --> 00:20:47,360 This is Constable's river and Gainsborough's river 310 00:20:47,360 --> 00:20:49,120 and my river, too. 311 00:20:50,120 --> 00:20:53,280 Gainsborough was born at Sudbury where I spent my boyhood. 312 00:20:54,280 --> 00:20:59,520 Acton, the village where I was born, is about three miles to the east. 313 00:21:01,040 --> 00:21:04,360 We were able to walk to it entirely by fields and meadows, 314 00:21:04,360 --> 00:21:07,040 and they had old, beautiful names. 315 00:21:07,040 --> 00:21:10,960 The Spring Waters, the Long Pasture. 316 00:21:11,960 --> 00:21:15,400 Of course, you only know a bit of the river when you're young. 317 00:21:15,400 --> 00:21:18,360 The "stickleback place" and the "swimming place". 318 00:21:18,360 --> 00:21:20,120 And, here, the "flood gates". 319 00:21:20,120 --> 00:21:23,040 I was very frightened of this bit of the river when I was a child. 320 00:21:23,040 --> 00:21:26,280 I used to come across, there was a plank bridge here, with my brother. 321 00:21:26,280 --> 00:21:28,040 This noise of the water. 322 00:21:31,520 --> 00:21:34,040 These are the common lands of the town. 323 00:21:35,040 --> 00:21:38,040 Tom Gainsborough painted this portrait of his friends, 324 00:21:38,040 --> 00:21:39,840 Robert Andrews and his wife, 325 00:21:39,840 --> 00:21:42,520 on the hillside overlooking these water meadows. 326 00:21:42,520 --> 00:21:46,040 They must all three have walked across them hundreds of times. 327 00:21:48,520 --> 00:21:51,520 This river, the Suffolk Stour, 328 00:21:51,520 --> 00:21:54,840 is the accident which brought so much of my life together. 329 00:21:55,840 --> 00:21:58,520 My old friend John Nash first came to paint here, 330 00:21:58,520 --> 00:22:01,760 where it flows through Wormingford, in 1929. 331 00:22:02,760 --> 00:22:05,040 It was during the summer holidays. 332 00:22:06,040 --> 00:22:08,840 I found a postcard which his wife had written to her mother, 333 00:22:08,840 --> 00:22:12,760 which said, "Good river scenery. I think we may stay here." 334 00:22:12,760 --> 00:22:15,760 And they did, for the next 50 years. 335 00:22:17,360 --> 00:22:20,360 Here they are at that moment, discovering their new river 336 00:22:20,360 --> 00:22:22,440 in a punt at Wormingford Mill. 337 00:22:23,440 --> 00:22:26,480 MUSIC: Eclogue, Op. 10 by Gerald Finzi 338 00:22:42,520 --> 00:22:45,760 They settled, as a matter of fact, at almost the exact division 339 00:22:45,760 --> 00:22:49,360 between the two river territories of Constable and Gainsborough. 340 00:22:50,360 --> 00:22:53,920 Not that they would have thought much about either artist. 341 00:22:53,920 --> 00:22:57,120 Their real passions were for conversation 342 00:22:57,120 --> 00:23:00,080 and music and gardening. 343 00:23:03,040 --> 00:23:07,520 This is a film made about them in 1968, a few years before they died. 344 00:23:08,760 --> 00:23:11,520 The music is what John would have called a caper. 345 00:23:11,520 --> 00:23:13,560 PIANO PLAYS 346 00:23:16,520 --> 00:23:19,040 He was always very exact about his life. 347 00:23:20,040 --> 00:23:22,440 I like order in everything, really. 348 00:23:24,280 --> 00:23:28,520 I like order in the landscape, so that it suits my purpose 349 00:23:28,520 --> 00:23:31,520 from the simplicity of design and that sort of thing, 350 00:23:31,520 --> 00:23:33,280 and I look for it. 351 00:23:33,280 --> 00:23:36,280 And if you look long enough, you can usually find it. 352 00:23:37,280 --> 00:23:39,040 But I don't... 353 00:23:41,040 --> 00:23:44,040 I don't change anything very much. 354 00:23:51,760 --> 00:23:53,920 He was always painting the garden. 355 00:23:55,520 --> 00:23:58,960 He made it during the '40s, after he'd returned from the war. 356 00:23:59,960 --> 00:24:02,280 It was his real passion. 357 00:24:02,280 --> 00:24:04,920 Later on, I came to live here. 358 00:24:04,920 --> 00:24:07,520 It was all very familiar to me 359 00:24:07,520 --> 00:24:12,040 and had been part of my background for most of my grown-up life. 360 00:24:14,760 --> 00:24:17,760 But I never feel that it is my garden. 361 00:24:18,760 --> 00:24:21,760 He used to say, "I know where everything is." 362 00:24:21,760 --> 00:24:23,520 And of course he did. 363 00:24:23,520 --> 00:24:25,840 He used to tap on the window when I was weeding 364 00:24:25,840 --> 00:24:28,040 and call out, "Mind your feet!" 365 00:24:28,040 --> 00:24:31,040 And I can occasionally hear this call still. 366 00:24:33,760 --> 00:24:36,280 What delighted me about them from the start 367 00:24:36,280 --> 00:24:39,040 was that they never wanted their friends to know them 368 00:24:39,040 --> 00:24:41,680 and to talk to them as a married couple, 369 00:24:41,680 --> 00:24:45,040 but always as two people who are conducting, sometimes, 370 00:24:45,040 --> 00:24:47,520 two separate strands of friendship. 371 00:24:49,040 --> 00:24:52,760 I used to write sitting on a bank or in a meadow while John sketched. 372 00:24:54,040 --> 00:24:56,760 After dinner, I used to read novels to them. 373 00:24:59,280 --> 00:25:03,520 We became in some kind of unexplained, tacit sense, a family, 374 00:25:03,520 --> 00:25:06,040 except that as in one's own family, 375 00:25:06,040 --> 00:25:09,040 and particularly with regards to one's parents, 376 00:25:09,040 --> 00:25:11,760 instead of turning away from too close a view, 377 00:25:11,760 --> 00:25:15,120 my interest in them and in everybody else I met during these years 378 00:25:15,120 --> 00:25:18,040 was intense, penetrating. 379 00:25:20,040 --> 00:25:22,520 Theirs could be, too. And very racy. 380 00:25:24,040 --> 00:25:27,680 It was something they enjoyed in me, I think - my writer's eye and ear. 381 00:25:35,280 --> 00:25:38,520 It seems easier to describe what we normally see 382 00:25:38,520 --> 00:25:40,760 than what we normally hear. 383 00:25:40,760 --> 00:25:43,760 We seem to allow the eye ranges and limitations 384 00:25:43,760 --> 00:25:45,680 which we deny to the ear. 385 00:25:45,680 --> 00:25:49,320 Yet it is likely that the solitary nature of writing 386 00:25:49,320 --> 00:25:52,040 and the accumulative quiet in which writers spend 387 00:25:52,040 --> 00:25:55,280 most of their working lives affects our listening capacity. 388 00:25:56,280 --> 00:25:59,520 I have come to regard even the most extrovert, colourful 389 00:25:59,520 --> 00:26:03,040 and predictable people as mere displays of the tip of the iceberg 390 00:26:03,040 --> 00:26:05,680 so far as their full reality is concerned. 391 00:26:07,280 --> 00:26:10,040 And so the writer has to be a listener in depth. 392 00:26:11,040 --> 00:26:13,760 Not that he can hope to discover much more of a fraction 393 00:26:13,760 --> 00:26:15,280 of such a reality. 394 00:26:16,520 --> 00:26:21,280 Yet, by listening to a particularly individual pattern of words, 395 00:26:21,280 --> 00:26:24,040 catching some telltale emphasis, 396 00:26:24,040 --> 00:26:26,880 or by being able to realise that something is being said 397 00:26:26,880 --> 00:26:30,040 which a speaker may not have been able to say before, 398 00:26:30,040 --> 00:26:33,200 the writer is hearing all those infinite possibilities 399 00:26:33,200 --> 00:26:36,880 and experiences which lie just under the surface of things. 400 00:26:38,280 --> 00:26:41,520 Great novelists, especially, have always revealed 401 00:26:41,520 --> 00:26:44,280 historic movement and social change and transition 402 00:26:44,280 --> 00:26:47,520 in a kind of build up of seemingly casual talk. 403 00:26:47,520 --> 00:26:51,200 It's the latest model. It's British, I suppose. That's the main thing. 404 00:26:51,200 --> 00:26:53,520 But here is most of... 405 00:26:53,520 --> 00:26:58,040 The French novelist Michel Tournier has written a brilliant story 406 00:26:58,040 --> 00:27:01,280 about what it is like to live without hearing another man's talk. 407 00:27:02,520 --> 00:27:05,520 It is called Friday, or, The Other Island. 408 00:27:07,760 --> 00:27:10,360 I suppose that all three of my houses have been 409 00:27:10,360 --> 00:27:14,040 rather like other islands. Writers' houses tend to. 410 00:27:15,280 --> 00:27:18,520 It is travel in every sense of the word when I leave here. 411 00:27:20,280 --> 00:27:24,040 When I was editing William Hazlitt, I was very amused by his notion 412 00:27:24,040 --> 00:27:26,760 of talk in the town and silence in the country. 413 00:27:26,760 --> 00:27:29,760 He actually hoped for anonymity in the country. 414 00:27:29,760 --> 00:27:31,280 What a hope! 415 00:27:31,280 --> 00:27:34,040 The smaller the community, the less cover. 416 00:27:35,040 --> 00:27:37,080 BELLS RING 417 00:27:43,040 --> 00:27:46,360 Work makes me travel, sometimes abroad. 418 00:27:46,360 --> 00:27:48,480 Usually it's libraries and committees 419 00:27:48,480 --> 00:27:50,680 in neighbouring towns like Cambridge. 420 00:27:51,680 --> 00:27:54,120 Two kinds of work, as a matter of fact. 421 00:27:54,120 --> 00:27:56,760 That to do with research or a meeting 422 00:27:56,760 --> 00:27:59,520 and that compulsive working of the imagination 423 00:27:59,520 --> 00:28:02,520 which goes on wherever a writer happens to be. 424 00:28:02,520 --> 00:28:04,520 In a street, 425 00:28:04,520 --> 00:28:07,520 a train, an art gallery. 426 00:28:19,040 --> 00:28:22,440 I got very intrigued by old age a few years ago. 427 00:28:22,440 --> 00:28:25,040 Real old age, not this retirement business. 428 00:28:26,040 --> 00:28:28,360 The final experience. 429 00:28:28,360 --> 00:28:31,920 It struck me that this is a profoundly interesting time of life 430 00:28:31,920 --> 00:28:34,040 because it spreads over more naturally 431 00:28:34,040 --> 00:28:37,040 than at any other period one has lived through into death. 432 00:28:39,280 --> 00:28:42,040 Lots of people told me that they would like to talk 433 00:28:42,040 --> 00:28:45,040 about their senescence, not their aches and pains 434 00:28:45,040 --> 00:28:48,920 and pensions, but that it was far too daring a subject. 435 00:28:50,040 --> 00:28:53,840 My book, The View in Winter, is a collection of travellers' tales 436 00:28:53,840 --> 00:28:56,040 from the country of the very old. 437 00:28:57,040 --> 00:28:59,680 Only those who have lived a very long time can say 438 00:28:59,680 --> 00:29:02,520 what it is like to be journeying through this land. 439 00:29:05,040 --> 00:29:07,680 "Sometimes the old check on the marks they made 440 00:29:07,680 --> 00:29:09,520 "when they were young. 441 00:29:09,520 --> 00:29:11,680 "Even a signature on a tree 442 00:29:11,680 --> 00:29:15,280 "or like the name which a boy carved high up inside a Suffolk belfry 443 00:29:15,280 --> 00:29:19,520 "when he was 18, which he climbed the stairs to look at when he was 90 444 00:29:19,520 --> 00:29:22,280 "and near to having it repeated on a stone below. 445 00:29:23,760 --> 00:29:26,920 "Often there's an intensely resurgent interest 446 00:29:26,920 --> 00:29:30,400 "in the long journey, just when it is about to come to an end. 447 00:29:31,400 --> 00:29:33,280 "It reminds me of Rousseau's 448 00:29:33,280 --> 00:29:36,720 "'I only began to live when I looked upon myself as dead.' 449 00:29:38,280 --> 00:29:40,760 "It is the nature of old men and women 450 00:29:40,760 --> 00:29:43,760 "to become their own confessors, poets, 451 00:29:43,760 --> 00:29:47,040 "philosophers, apologists and storytellers. 452 00:29:48,280 --> 00:29:52,280 "But no single conclusion can be deduced from what they say. 453 00:29:52,280 --> 00:29:55,440 "Old age is full of death and full of life. 454 00:29:56,520 --> 00:29:58,280 "It is a disaster. 455 00:29:59,280 --> 00:30:02,040 "It transcends desire and is taunted by it. 456 00:30:03,040 --> 00:30:07,040 "It is long enough, but it is far from being long enough. 457 00:30:07,040 --> 00:30:09,520 "As the poet Ruth Fainlight says, 458 00:30:09,520 --> 00:30:11,760 "assume nothing at all. 459 00:30:11,760 --> 00:30:15,760 "Even to hope that you might live forever brings the end too close." 460 00:30:18,480 --> 00:30:20,520 BIRDSONG 461 00:30:30,040 --> 00:30:33,680 I still occasionally speculate what it can be like to live somewhere 462 00:30:33,680 --> 00:30:36,360 where the signposts are not all pointing to the towns 463 00:30:36,360 --> 00:30:38,200 and villages of childhood. 464 00:30:39,440 --> 00:30:41,680 It is not as if, as some writers have, 465 00:30:41,680 --> 00:30:44,760 I made a vow to stick to the home ground, but I never did. 466 00:30:44,760 --> 00:30:47,280 And I've often thought that there could be benefits 467 00:30:47,280 --> 00:30:49,760 from giving it the slip for a decade or two. 468 00:30:49,760 --> 00:30:53,040 I could say that it had some kind of pull, etc... 469 00:30:54,040 --> 00:30:56,280 ..but inertia comes into it. 470 00:30:56,280 --> 00:30:59,760 On the other hand, I justify myself, 471 00:30:59,760 --> 00:31:03,040 if a writer has stayed at home, there is no doubt 472 00:31:03,040 --> 00:31:05,520 that he suffers certain home pressures 473 00:31:05,520 --> 00:31:08,280 and his way of coping with such stresses and strains 474 00:31:08,280 --> 00:31:10,280 can be the strength of his work. 60074

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