Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated:
1
00:00:08,520 --> 00:00:10,560
BIRDSONG
2
00:00:38,760 --> 00:00:42,040
I was going to say that
it all began very simply,
3
00:00:42,040 --> 00:00:44,760
going off to the Suffolk coast
to be a writer.
4
00:00:45,760 --> 00:00:50,040
But, looking back, I can see that
it all began most precariously.
5
00:00:50,040 --> 00:00:52,280
I can remember the actual day.
6
00:00:52,280 --> 00:00:55,760
It was January
and snow was falling on the sea.
7
00:00:59,280 --> 00:01:02,040
The situation was ordinary enough
in its way.
8
00:01:02,040 --> 00:01:04,920
A young man beginning
to get published,
9
00:01:04,920 --> 00:01:07,120
thick jerseys, a bike,
10
00:01:07,120 --> 00:01:10,320
and just enough money to last
a few months if I was spartan.
11
00:01:11,320 --> 00:01:14,040
But the real beginning
was childhood, of course.
12
00:01:16,280 --> 00:01:20,680
As a boy from a rural family
apparently existing on air,
13
00:01:20,680 --> 00:01:23,040
I saw a very little world indeed.
14
00:01:24,520 --> 00:01:27,920
East Anglia was for me no more than
a tight circle of villages
15
00:01:27,920 --> 00:01:31,840
around a market town,
plus an annually visited beach,
16
00:01:31,840 --> 00:01:35,040
or rather a slipping wall
of cold shingle
17
00:01:35,040 --> 00:01:38,760
which the sea monotonously
piled up and pulled down.
18
00:01:40,280 --> 00:01:43,520
I felt the same parochial
tenderness about this sea
19
00:01:43,520 --> 00:01:45,360
as I did about the meadows.
20
00:01:45,360 --> 00:01:49,280
Fields, really, gone to weed because
of the agricultural depression.
21
00:01:51,280 --> 00:01:54,760
As I sighted this quite
unimaginably immense liquid wall
22
00:01:54,760 --> 00:01:56,520
at the end of the coast road,
23
00:01:56,520 --> 00:01:59,680
with the Rotterdam-Harwich shipping
riding its horizon,
24
00:01:59,680 --> 00:02:02,920
I can still recall how it sometimes
revoked everything I felt
25
00:02:02,920 --> 00:02:04,760
for the interior.
26
00:02:04,760 --> 00:02:07,680
The sea makes us treacherous.
27
00:02:07,680 --> 00:02:11,480
It captures our senses and makes us
faithless to the land.
28
00:02:12,480 --> 00:02:15,520
I found myself in a different state
by the sea.
29
00:02:15,520 --> 00:02:19,520
Not freed, but in another kind
of captivity.
30
00:02:23,040 --> 00:02:26,520
The entire ecology changes
long before one even suspects
31
00:02:26,520 --> 00:02:28,680
the presence of the Suffolk sea.
32
00:02:29,760 --> 00:02:33,920
A 12-mile belt of what we call
sandlings produces heaths
33
00:02:33,920 --> 00:02:37,520
and coniferous forests -
pale, airy villages,
34
00:02:37,520 --> 00:02:41,040
like meadows
and vast cloud formations.
35
00:02:47,280 --> 00:02:50,520
This is the country of our
7th century Swedish kings
36
00:02:50,520 --> 00:02:53,040
who lie buried in their ships
at Sutton Hoo and whose palace
37
00:02:53,040 --> 00:02:57,520
is somewhere under the huge
NATO bomber base at Bentwaters.
38
00:02:57,520 --> 00:02:59,560
JET ENGINE ROARS
39
00:03:06,040 --> 00:03:10,040
Screaming sea birds and screaming
planes on practice runs
40
00:03:10,040 --> 00:03:12,040
and often profound silences.
41
00:03:17,280 --> 00:03:20,760
Also a cutting wind
and an intriguing marine flora,
42
00:03:20,760 --> 00:03:23,920
which between them forced the gaze
downwards to the ground.
43
00:03:25,040 --> 00:03:30,040
What half entranced, half shocked me
about this coast as a boy
44
00:03:30,040 --> 00:03:32,360
was its prodigious wastefulness.
45
00:03:32,360 --> 00:03:36,520
Here, nature was humanly
unmanageable and did what it liked.
46
00:03:42,040 --> 00:03:44,760
Considering that a number
of important friendships
47
00:03:44,760 --> 00:03:47,440
were getting themselves
established at this time,
48
00:03:47,440 --> 00:03:50,520
it's strange that I still see it
as full of isolation.
49
00:03:51,520 --> 00:03:55,040
These friends included my first
friends for life, as they say.
50
00:03:56,280 --> 00:03:58,360
Most importantly, James Turner.
51
00:03:59,520 --> 00:04:01,760
Turner was a fine nature poet.
52
00:04:02,760 --> 00:04:05,000
We were both publishers' readers
53
00:04:05,000 --> 00:04:07,520
and a lugubrious running
conversation
54
00:04:07,520 --> 00:04:10,920
on how hard we had to toil at
this task went on for years.
55
00:04:10,920 --> 00:04:14,520
But we both rather enjoyed it
and I think we were very good at it.
56
00:04:15,520 --> 00:04:18,520
Although they contain close
literary and other friendships,
57
00:04:18,520 --> 00:04:21,760
I still remember those beginning
years as intensely solitary.
58
00:04:22,760 --> 00:04:25,800
MUSIC: Peter Grimes, Op. 33,
Interlude V by Benjamin Britten
59
00:05:07,520 --> 00:05:10,040
This is where I began
to shape my new life.
60
00:05:11,040 --> 00:05:15,040
I burned driftwood at night
and walked many miles every day.
61
00:05:15,040 --> 00:05:17,040
I walked partly along the beach
62
00:05:17,040 --> 00:05:19,520
and partly in the stories
I was working on.
63
00:05:20,520 --> 00:05:23,680
I wrote in what a friend,
who found me this little house
64
00:05:23,680 --> 00:05:26,520
by the North Sea,
called my solarium -
65
00:05:26,520 --> 00:05:30,520
an old-fashioned sealed glass room
built out towards the sea
66
00:05:30,520 --> 00:05:34,840
and which caught the sun
south, east and west.
67
00:05:37,280 --> 00:05:39,840
To the north were the marshes
68
00:05:39,840 --> 00:05:43,040
and the farmhouse which
Benjamin Britten was later to buy.
69
00:05:43,040 --> 00:05:45,440
And there was a novel
lying on the windowsill.
70
00:05:45,440 --> 00:05:48,520
It was called Indigo
by Christine Weston.
71
00:05:48,520 --> 00:05:50,280
A novel about India.
72
00:05:50,280 --> 00:05:53,520
It was the first book I read
as a writer in this house.
73
00:05:55,040 --> 00:05:58,360
Although I seem to have stayed put,
I've always been enthralled
74
00:05:58,360 --> 00:06:01,360
by travel and I like its
imaginative use in literature.
75
00:06:02,360 --> 00:06:05,360
It was here at Aldeburgh that
both the local and world view,
76
00:06:05,360 --> 00:06:07,760
if you like,
became far less separated
77
00:06:07,760 --> 00:06:10,040
than they are usually
imagined to be.
78
00:06:11,040 --> 00:06:14,040
A very great deal of reading
went on here.
79
00:06:14,040 --> 00:06:18,120
My first poets were the poets
of the Second World War.
80
00:06:18,120 --> 00:06:20,280
That is the poetry I began to buy.
81
00:06:20,280 --> 00:06:24,480
Sidney Keys and the dazzling
Keith Douglas. Both killed.
82
00:06:24,480 --> 00:06:28,520
I also read Auden and Eliot,
of course, and Edwin Muir.
83
00:06:30,520 --> 00:06:34,120
But this listing of a few names
doesn't describe at all
84
00:06:34,120 --> 00:06:37,040
what was happening to me then
in reading terms.
85
00:06:37,040 --> 00:06:41,040
Sartre said people read
86
00:06:41,040 --> 00:06:43,760
because they want to write
87
00:06:43,760 --> 00:06:47,960
and that reading was a form of
rewriting, and I think this is true.
88
00:06:49,520 --> 00:06:53,040
This beginner's house was found
for me by Christine Nash,
89
00:06:53,040 --> 00:06:55,040
the wife of the artist John Nash.
90
00:06:56,040 --> 00:06:59,280
She was the kind of woman who made
sure that you wouldn't plunge
91
00:06:59,280 --> 00:07:02,280
out of your depth before she pushed
you off the diving board.
92
00:07:03,280 --> 00:07:07,040
She had a gift for making cautious
people momentarily incautious
93
00:07:07,040 --> 00:07:09,120
when it was absolutely necessary.
94
00:07:10,120 --> 00:07:13,520
This is her when she was 18 in 1913.
95
00:07:13,520 --> 00:07:15,520
It's a self-portrait.
96
00:07:15,520 --> 00:07:19,040
She was a student at the Slade
at the time and sharing rooms
97
00:07:19,040 --> 00:07:21,760
with Dora Carrington,
who told John Nash to marry her,
98
00:07:21,760 --> 00:07:24,520
which he did towards the end
of the First World War.
99
00:07:26,040 --> 00:07:28,280
They were middle age
when I met them.
100
00:07:28,280 --> 00:07:31,120
Part of a group of painters
and writers who had come to live
101
00:07:31,120 --> 00:07:33,640
in East Anglia immediately
after the last war.
102
00:07:34,640 --> 00:07:37,240
It included Sir Cedric Morris
103
00:07:37,240 --> 00:07:40,040
and the Canadian artist Hugh Cronyn,
104
00:07:40,040 --> 00:07:42,560
who painted Christine
when she was old,
105
00:07:42,560 --> 00:07:45,520
the Irish poet W.R. Rogers,
106
00:07:45,520 --> 00:07:48,040
and, of course, James Turner.
107
00:07:49,520 --> 00:07:52,280
It was Turner's form of conspiracy
108
00:07:52,280 --> 00:07:54,600
which meant the most to me
at this time.
109
00:07:54,600 --> 00:07:58,520
His very English mixture
of fierce opinions and delicacy.
110
00:08:00,400 --> 00:08:04,760
It was James Turner who opened
the door of the West to me,
111
00:08:04,760 --> 00:08:06,760
as Hardy wrote.
112
00:08:06,760 --> 00:08:09,280
He used to come to Aldeburgh
quite often.
113
00:08:09,280 --> 00:08:14,280
He stayed in this house
with a man named Edward Clodd
114
00:08:14,280 --> 00:08:19,040
who popularised the writings
of Darwin and Thomas Huxley.
115
00:08:20,040 --> 00:08:24,440
And he and other rationalists
used to come and stay here
116
00:08:24,440 --> 00:08:26,840
during the First World War.
117
00:08:26,840 --> 00:08:31,040
This house is built on
what they call the Crag Path,
118
00:08:31,040 --> 00:08:35,040
and Benjamin Britten lived a little
further along on the other side.
119
00:08:35,040 --> 00:08:38,280
It's called the Crag Path
because it's made of Coralline Crag
120
00:08:38,280 --> 00:08:41,280
from the Plio-Pleistocene period,
which I've always thought
121
00:08:41,280 --> 00:08:44,760
was a good address
for Victorian evolutionists.
122
00:08:47,040 --> 00:08:52,040
When I think of Ben or the Nashes
or James Turner
123
00:08:52,040 --> 00:08:55,040
or a surprising number of these
friends at the beginning,
124
00:08:55,040 --> 00:08:57,280
if I can describe them like this,
125
00:08:57,280 --> 00:09:00,840
I recognise a strong absence
of elegy in myself...
126
00:09:01,840 --> 00:09:05,920
..for some of them are dead
and yet at the same time living,
127
00:09:05,920 --> 00:09:07,680
because I'm living.
128
00:09:07,680 --> 00:09:09,760
I suppose that must be it.
129
00:09:13,760 --> 00:09:17,280
I sometimes read James Turner's
poems to Suffolk schoolchildren
130
00:09:17,280 --> 00:09:19,920
when I go to talk to them
about books and writers
131
00:09:19,920 --> 00:09:24,040
for the Eastern Arts Association's
Writers in School scheme.
132
00:09:24,040 --> 00:09:27,280
I've never been a teacher
so it's all rather a novelty.
133
00:09:28,760 --> 00:09:31,920
This poet, who was a friend
of mine, who's now dead,
134
00:09:31,920 --> 00:09:33,760
lived in this village,
135
00:09:33,760 --> 00:09:36,520
and one day the old man
who had to wind the clock up
136
00:09:36,520 --> 00:09:39,520
and had done all his life
was too ill to go up the tower,
137
00:09:39,520 --> 00:09:41,520
and rather than have the clock stop,
138
00:09:41,520 --> 00:09:44,760
my friend, the writer, went up
each week to wind it up.
139
00:09:44,760 --> 00:09:48,040
The clock was enormously old,
about 250 years old,
140
00:09:48,040 --> 00:09:50,920
so he wrote this poem
and I'm going to read it to you.
141
00:09:50,920 --> 00:09:53,040
It's called Church Clock Winding.
142
00:09:56,520 --> 00:10:01,280
"So the men, the ancient men,
the men with curiously cut clothes,
143
00:10:01,280 --> 00:10:02,920
"were this small.
144
00:10:02,920 --> 00:10:06,040
"Small as this doorway in the arch
leading to steps
145
00:10:06,040 --> 00:10:10,520
"cut like an apple core from
the rubble upthrust of the tower.
146
00:10:10,520 --> 00:10:15,240
"43 triangular steps go upward
to the clock chamber.
147
00:10:15,240 --> 00:10:17,800
"43 to that room.
148
00:10:18,800 --> 00:10:21,440
"Then upwards still another
rock-hewn flight.
149
00:10:21,440 --> 00:10:24,760
"The iron tongued, silent,
listless bells
150
00:10:24,760 --> 00:10:28,760
"holding long echoes
of forgotten sound.
151
00:10:28,760 --> 00:10:31,520
"And so the men, the ancient men,
152
00:10:31,520 --> 00:10:35,160
"toiled 43 steps upward
with their clock,
153
00:10:35,160 --> 00:10:38,280
"a huge black jangling
of wheels and cogs,
154
00:10:38,280 --> 00:10:41,520
"steel ropes
and one great pendulum -
155
00:10:41,520 --> 00:10:45,160
"a cyclops eye swinging eternally.
156
00:10:45,160 --> 00:10:50,040
"But the men, the ancient men
who have no names,
157
00:10:50,040 --> 00:10:52,680
"who brought here the clock
to mark the hours
158
00:10:52,680 --> 00:10:55,800
"of their own
and others' lives and deaths,
159
00:10:55,800 --> 00:10:58,040
"where are they now?"
160
00:10:58,040 --> 00:11:01,040
Now, if you go up a church tower,
you think once a week
161
00:11:01,040 --> 00:11:04,040
or once a month, somebody perhaps
for several generations
162
00:11:04,040 --> 00:11:06,280
had to go up and wind
that great thing up,
163
00:11:06,280 --> 00:11:08,120
which you can hear ticking away.
164
00:11:08,120 --> 00:11:11,280
What I prefer really
is not reading poems
165
00:11:11,280 --> 00:11:13,520
but speaking poems.
166
00:11:13,520 --> 00:11:16,680
There were poets,
great poets like John Clare,
167
00:11:16,680 --> 00:11:19,840
who I hope you'll read one day,
who used to have to,
168
00:11:19,840 --> 00:11:22,120
because he had so much work to do,
as it were,
169
00:11:22,120 --> 00:11:25,120
speak their poems aloud in the
daytime while they were doing...
170
00:11:25,120 --> 00:11:27,760
He was doing farm work,
ploughing and things like that,
171
00:11:27,760 --> 00:11:30,120
because he hadn't got the time
to write them down.
172
00:11:30,120 --> 00:11:34,520
He had to memorise them. This is
how the poets shared the Bible,
173
00:11:34,520 --> 00:11:36,520
like the people wrote the psalms...
174
00:11:38,520 --> 00:11:40,560
CLASSICAL MUSIC
175
00:12:12,520 --> 00:12:15,760
The village lies folded away
in one of the shallow valleys
176
00:12:15,760 --> 00:12:18,280
which dip into the East Anglian
coastal plain.
177
00:12:19,280 --> 00:12:21,520
It is not a particularly
striking place.
178
00:12:21,520 --> 00:12:23,520
It says little at first meeting.
179
00:12:24,520 --> 00:12:27,280
It occupies a little isthmus
of London clay
180
00:12:27,280 --> 00:12:30,760
jutting from Suffolk's famous
shelly sands and is approached by
181
00:12:30,760 --> 00:12:34,280
a spidery lane running off from the
bit of straight, as they call it,
182
00:12:34,280 --> 00:12:38,040
meaning a handsome stretch of
Roman road apparently going nowhere.
183
00:12:39,040 --> 00:12:42,520
It is the kind of road which hurries
one past the situation.
184
00:12:42,520 --> 00:12:45,280
Centuries of traffic must
have passed within yards
185
00:12:45,280 --> 00:12:47,520
of Akenfield without noticing it.
186
00:12:49,280 --> 00:12:54,280
Akenfield was a combination
of witness, my own witness
187
00:12:54,280 --> 00:12:56,280
and that of three generations,
188
00:12:56,280 --> 00:12:59,040
and what you might call
the home-fed imagination.
189
00:13:00,760 --> 00:13:04,280
I wrote it in this house
in which I lived for a long time.
190
00:13:04,280 --> 00:13:06,040
16 years.
191
00:13:08,760 --> 00:13:12,760
It was as good a place as any for
assessing oneself in the merry '60s,
192
00:13:12,760 --> 00:13:15,680
although not for assessing
the world, you might think.
193
00:13:19,280 --> 00:13:21,760
The road in front
was a kind of clock.
194
00:13:22,760 --> 00:13:26,520
6:30, the farm men
and the road men on their bikes.
195
00:13:26,520 --> 00:13:29,520
8:30, the schoolchildren on theirs
196
00:13:29,520 --> 00:13:32,280
and office workers' cars
going to Ipswich.
197
00:13:33,280 --> 00:13:35,760
And all the seasonal traffic,
of course.
198
00:13:35,760 --> 00:13:38,520
Drills, pea lorries, harvesters.
199
00:13:40,040 --> 00:13:43,280
A few yards away at the back,
it was totally different.
200
00:13:43,280 --> 00:13:44,920
No time at all.
201
00:13:45,920 --> 00:13:49,040
Just these ditches
and vast uncut may hedges,
202
00:13:49,040 --> 00:13:51,680
which surrounded the fields
belonging to the house
203
00:13:51,680 --> 00:13:53,280
when it was a farm.
204
00:13:54,280 --> 00:13:57,760
On Saturday afternoons, the village
football club played visiting teams
205
00:13:57,760 --> 00:14:00,920
in the meadow next to the house
with almost no spectators.
206
00:14:00,920 --> 00:14:05,760
I used to laugh and say that
the house and its surroundings
207
00:14:05,760 --> 00:14:08,760
were minimal situations which
encouraged a writer like myself
208
00:14:08,760 --> 00:14:11,040
to fill them out
with my imagination.
209
00:14:11,040 --> 00:14:14,360
But this was just a sort of
defensive thing one tells people.
210
00:14:14,360 --> 00:14:17,040
Nothing around here
was minimal to me.
211
00:14:18,040 --> 00:14:21,520
This place was a full
and intricate restatement
212
00:14:21,520 --> 00:14:23,920
of everything which
my family had heard
213
00:14:23,920 --> 00:14:26,440
and seen and understood
for hundreds of years.
214
00:14:26,440 --> 00:14:29,280
And that was what Akenfield
was really about.
215
00:14:33,040 --> 00:14:35,280
All my great elms have disappeared.
216
00:14:36,720 --> 00:14:39,280
Those by the road had been broken
by a crashed plane
217
00:14:39,280 --> 00:14:41,280
during the war, they said.
218
00:14:41,280 --> 00:14:45,040
I dug up a lot of this plane -
a Spitfire,
219
00:14:45,040 --> 00:14:47,920
when I made the kitchen garden
in 1960.
220
00:14:48,920 --> 00:14:51,360
There were rusty instruments
full of worms
221
00:14:51,360 --> 00:14:54,120
and thin metal panels
spread out under the grass.
222
00:14:56,280 --> 00:14:58,760
Debbage Aerodrome was close by.
223
00:14:58,760 --> 00:15:01,040
It was a marvellous walking place.
224
00:15:01,040 --> 00:15:02,840
Larks and flowers.
225
00:15:05,280 --> 00:15:07,760
There's something awful
about old concrete.
226
00:15:07,760 --> 00:15:10,360
Something both squalid and sad,
227
00:15:10,360 --> 00:15:12,760
like the crumbling stadiums
in Germany
228
00:15:12,760 --> 00:15:15,120
where the Nazis used to
hold their rallies.
229
00:15:16,760 --> 00:15:19,920
My anthology of the poetry and
stories of the Second World War,
230
00:15:19,920 --> 00:15:23,920
called Writing in a War,
was inspired by this aerodrome
231
00:15:23,920 --> 00:15:25,520
to some extent.
232
00:15:26,520 --> 00:15:29,280
Old aerodromes
are very potent places.
233
00:15:33,280 --> 00:15:36,720
"They told me when they cut
the ready wheat,
234
00:15:36,720 --> 00:15:39,280
"the hares are suddenly homeless
and afraid
235
00:15:39,280 --> 00:15:42,280
"and aimlessly run the stubble
with scared feet,
236
00:15:42,280 --> 00:15:45,960
"finding no homes in sunlight
or in shade.
237
00:15:46,960 --> 00:15:50,040
"It's morning, and the Hamptons
have returned.
238
00:15:50,040 --> 00:15:54,680
"The crews are home, have stretched
and laughed and gone.
239
00:15:55,680 --> 00:15:58,280
"Whence the planes came
and the bright neon burned,
240
00:15:58,280 --> 00:16:00,880
"the sun has ridden the sky
and made the dawn.
241
00:16:02,200 --> 00:16:06,280
"He walks distraught,
circling the landing ground,
242
00:16:06,280 --> 00:16:09,280
"waiting the last one in
that won't come back.
243
00:16:09,280 --> 00:16:13,520
"And like those hares,
he wanders 'round and 'round,
244
00:16:13,520 --> 00:16:17,520
"lost and desolate on
the close-cropped track."
245
00:16:22,520 --> 00:16:25,040
It's wonderful land all around here.
246
00:16:25,040 --> 00:16:27,280
Some of the finest corn land
in Britain
247
00:16:27,280 --> 00:16:29,680
came back from the wars, as it were.
248
00:16:29,680 --> 00:16:33,280
Now the Akenfield harvests are cut
where the bombers were stationed.
249
00:16:35,320 --> 00:16:37,360
ENGINE RUMBLES
250
00:16:43,040 --> 00:16:45,040
"I'm a man on my own.
251
00:16:46,040 --> 00:16:48,360
"I'm not interfered with much.
252
00:16:48,360 --> 00:16:51,520
"I'm on the plough
and that's where I keep.
253
00:16:51,520 --> 00:16:57,120
"I'm alone nearly all my work time
but I can't say that I feel lonely.
254
00:16:57,120 --> 00:16:59,760
"Not ever. Not at all.
255
00:16:59,760 --> 00:17:04,280
"People say, "There's Derek by
himself, up on the great old field,
256
00:17:04,280 --> 00:17:06,520
""turning 'round, going back.
257
00:17:06,520 --> 00:17:09,040
""He's lonely. He must be lonely."
258
00:17:09,040 --> 00:17:11,440
"Not at all.
259
00:17:11,440 --> 00:17:15,040
"What is lonely? I'm watching
the whole time, you see.
260
00:17:15,040 --> 00:17:18,040
"I might have more than 100 birds
in my wake.
261
00:17:18,040 --> 00:17:20,440
"It's surprisingly interesting.
262
00:17:20,440 --> 00:17:23,680
"The gulls are with me, but now
and then it's nice to see a face
263
00:17:23,680 --> 00:17:25,200
"and have a chat.
264
00:17:25,200 --> 00:17:28,880
"Some people come past and speak
and that's good. Makes a break.
265
00:17:29,880 --> 00:17:32,680
"After all, I'm a man, not a bird,
but, honestly...
266
00:17:33,680 --> 00:17:37,040
"..if I knew that I was lonely,
I would pack it up tomorrow.
267
00:17:42,760 --> 00:17:46,760
This is Charsfield Church, which
is my parish church for many years.
268
00:17:48,040 --> 00:17:50,280
I could only have been
about ten or 11
269
00:17:50,280 --> 00:17:53,040
when I first began to explore
old churches.
270
00:17:53,040 --> 00:17:56,040
It had more to do with
inquisitiveness and magic
271
00:17:56,040 --> 00:17:58,640
than religion and architecture.
272
00:17:58,640 --> 00:18:01,520
They were all wide open,
morning, noon and night then,
273
00:18:01,520 --> 00:18:04,120
and I used to wander miles
from one to another,
274
00:18:04,120 --> 00:18:07,280
opening their vast carved doors,
climbing belfries,
275
00:18:07,280 --> 00:18:10,760
staring, sniffing their strong
old scents,
276
00:18:10,760 --> 00:18:13,520
reading inscriptions, poking about.
277
00:18:15,040 --> 00:18:18,520
They were like stories
which one could actually enter
278
00:18:18,520 --> 00:18:21,520
or alternative worlds without keys.
279
00:18:21,520 --> 00:18:24,760
You just entered, stared,
280
00:18:24,760 --> 00:18:29,000
listened to a curious sound
made by wind in high rooms
281
00:18:29,000 --> 00:18:30,840
plus a ticking of clocks.
282
00:18:30,840 --> 00:18:32,880
TICKING
283
00:18:42,280 --> 00:18:45,680
"The most compelling building
in every English village and town
284
00:18:45,680 --> 00:18:47,280
"is a parish church.
285
00:18:47,280 --> 00:18:50,040
"It is the most history-soaked
artefact
286
00:18:50,040 --> 00:18:52,760
"in the possession of a community.
287
00:18:52,760 --> 00:18:55,720
"The very silence
of the huge arcaded room
288
00:18:55,720 --> 00:18:58,040
"around which a visitor
casts his eye
289
00:18:58,040 --> 00:19:01,160
"warns him not to draw hollow,
echoing conclusions.
290
00:19:02,160 --> 00:19:05,280
"These are the walls within
which everything was said.
291
00:19:05,280 --> 00:19:07,840
"Centuries of birth words,
292
00:19:07,840 --> 00:19:11,280
"marriage words, law words.
293
00:19:11,280 --> 00:19:14,360
"death words, gossip.
294
00:19:15,360 --> 00:19:19,280
"The language of the hymn poets
and the songwriters.
295
00:19:19,280 --> 00:19:22,040
"Of the Latin and English liturgies
296
00:19:22,040 --> 00:19:25,040
"and the immense Bible translation
language.
297
00:19:26,040 --> 00:19:29,760
"All this language said here
in the local accent.
298
00:19:31,280 --> 00:19:34,520
"This place has witnessed through
the year the very creation
299
00:19:34,520 --> 00:19:37,920
"of literary and colloquial English
as getting on for 1,000 years
300
00:19:37,920 --> 00:19:40,520
"of sermons battered away
at human nature.
301
00:19:41,760 --> 00:19:46,040
"So it is a house of words as well
as a house of wood and stone.
302
00:19:47,280 --> 00:19:51,520
"No old Church can be understood
if one omits the eloquence factor."
303
00:19:52,520 --> 00:19:55,240
Eloquence, too, on the tombstones,
of course.
304
00:19:56,240 --> 00:19:59,760
These are John Constable's aunts
and uncles and cousins.
305
00:20:01,360 --> 00:20:04,280
The Constables were all riverside
farmers and millers,
306
00:20:04,280 --> 00:20:08,040
and John turned their fields and
buildings into what somebody called
307
00:20:08,040 --> 00:20:10,760
part of the landscape
of every English mind.
308
00:20:11,760 --> 00:20:14,800
MUSIC: Rondo Pastorale
by Ralph Vaughan Williams
309
00:20:43,760 --> 00:20:47,360
This is Constable's river
and Gainsborough's river
310
00:20:47,360 --> 00:20:49,120
and my river, too.
311
00:20:50,120 --> 00:20:53,280
Gainsborough was born at Sudbury
where I spent my boyhood.
312
00:20:54,280 --> 00:20:59,520
Acton, the village where I was born,
is about three miles to the east.
313
00:21:01,040 --> 00:21:04,360
We were able to walk to it
entirely by fields and meadows,
314
00:21:04,360 --> 00:21:07,040
and they had old, beautiful names.
315
00:21:07,040 --> 00:21:10,960
The Spring Waters, the Long Pasture.
316
00:21:11,960 --> 00:21:15,400
Of course, you only know a bit
of the river when you're young.
317
00:21:15,400 --> 00:21:18,360
The "stickleback place"
and the "swimming place".
318
00:21:18,360 --> 00:21:20,120
And, here, the "flood gates".
319
00:21:20,120 --> 00:21:23,040
I was very frightened of this bit
of the river when I was a child.
320
00:21:23,040 --> 00:21:26,280
I used to come across, there was a
plank bridge here, with my brother.
321
00:21:26,280 --> 00:21:28,040
This noise of the water.
322
00:21:31,520 --> 00:21:34,040
These are the common lands
of the town.
323
00:21:35,040 --> 00:21:38,040
Tom Gainsborough painted
this portrait of his friends,
324
00:21:38,040 --> 00:21:39,840
Robert Andrews and his wife,
325
00:21:39,840 --> 00:21:42,520
on the hillside overlooking
these water meadows.
326
00:21:42,520 --> 00:21:46,040
They must all three have walked
across them hundreds of times.
327
00:21:48,520 --> 00:21:51,520
This river, the Suffolk Stour,
328
00:21:51,520 --> 00:21:54,840
is the accident which brought
so much of my life together.
329
00:21:55,840 --> 00:21:58,520
My old friend John Nash
first came to paint here,
330
00:21:58,520 --> 00:22:01,760
where it flows through Wormingford,
in 1929.
331
00:22:02,760 --> 00:22:05,040
It was during the summer holidays.
332
00:22:06,040 --> 00:22:08,840
I found a postcard which his wife
had written to her mother,
333
00:22:08,840 --> 00:22:12,760
which said, "Good river scenery.
I think we may stay here."
334
00:22:12,760 --> 00:22:15,760
And they did, for the next 50 years.
335
00:22:17,360 --> 00:22:20,360
Here they are at that moment,
discovering their new river
336
00:22:20,360 --> 00:22:22,440
in a punt at Wormingford Mill.
337
00:22:23,440 --> 00:22:26,480
MUSIC: Eclogue, Op. 10
by Gerald Finzi
338
00:22:42,520 --> 00:22:45,760
They settled, as a matter of fact,
at almost the exact division
339
00:22:45,760 --> 00:22:49,360
between the two river territories
of Constable and Gainsborough.
340
00:22:50,360 --> 00:22:53,920
Not that they would have
thought much about either artist.
341
00:22:53,920 --> 00:22:57,120
Their real passions
were for conversation
342
00:22:57,120 --> 00:23:00,080
and music and gardening.
343
00:23:03,040 --> 00:23:07,520
This is a film made about them in
1968, a few years before they died.
344
00:23:08,760 --> 00:23:11,520
The music is what John
would have called a caper.
345
00:23:11,520 --> 00:23:13,560
PIANO PLAYS
346
00:23:16,520 --> 00:23:19,040
He was always very exact
about his life.
347
00:23:20,040 --> 00:23:22,440
I like order in everything, really.
348
00:23:24,280 --> 00:23:28,520
I like order in the landscape,
so that it suits my purpose
349
00:23:28,520 --> 00:23:31,520
from the simplicity of design
and that sort of thing,
350
00:23:31,520 --> 00:23:33,280
and I look for it.
351
00:23:33,280 --> 00:23:36,280
And if you look long enough,
you can usually find it.
352
00:23:37,280 --> 00:23:39,040
But I don't...
353
00:23:41,040 --> 00:23:44,040
I don't change anything very much.
354
00:23:51,760 --> 00:23:53,920
He was always painting the garden.
355
00:23:55,520 --> 00:23:58,960
He made it during the '40s,
after he'd returned from the war.
356
00:23:59,960 --> 00:24:02,280
It was his real passion.
357
00:24:02,280 --> 00:24:04,920
Later on, I came to live here.
358
00:24:04,920 --> 00:24:07,520
It was all very familiar to me
359
00:24:07,520 --> 00:24:12,040
and had been part of my background
for most of my grown-up life.
360
00:24:14,760 --> 00:24:17,760
But I never feel
that it is my garden.
361
00:24:18,760 --> 00:24:21,760
He used to say,
"I know where everything is."
362
00:24:21,760 --> 00:24:23,520
And of course he did.
363
00:24:23,520 --> 00:24:25,840
He used to tap on the window
when I was weeding
364
00:24:25,840 --> 00:24:28,040
and call out, "Mind your feet!"
365
00:24:28,040 --> 00:24:31,040
And I can occasionally
hear this call still.
366
00:24:33,760 --> 00:24:36,280
What delighted me about them
from the start
367
00:24:36,280 --> 00:24:39,040
was that they never wanted
their friends to know them
368
00:24:39,040 --> 00:24:41,680
and to talk to them
as a married couple,
369
00:24:41,680 --> 00:24:45,040
but always as two people
who are conducting, sometimes,
370
00:24:45,040 --> 00:24:47,520
two separate strands of friendship.
371
00:24:49,040 --> 00:24:52,760
I used to write sitting on a bank
or in a meadow while John sketched.
372
00:24:54,040 --> 00:24:56,760
After dinner, I used to read novels
to them.
373
00:24:59,280 --> 00:25:03,520
We became in some kind of
unexplained, tacit sense, a family,
374
00:25:03,520 --> 00:25:06,040
except that as in one's own family,
375
00:25:06,040 --> 00:25:09,040
and particularly with regards
to one's parents,
376
00:25:09,040 --> 00:25:11,760
instead of turning away
from too close a view,
377
00:25:11,760 --> 00:25:15,120
my interest in them and in everybody
else I met during these years
378
00:25:15,120 --> 00:25:18,040
was intense, penetrating.
379
00:25:20,040 --> 00:25:22,520
Theirs could be, too. And very racy.
380
00:25:24,040 --> 00:25:27,680
It was something they enjoyed in me,
I think - my writer's eye and ear.
381
00:25:35,280 --> 00:25:38,520
It seems easier to describe
what we normally see
382
00:25:38,520 --> 00:25:40,760
than what we normally hear.
383
00:25:40,760 --> 00:25:43,760
We seem to allow the eye
ranges and limitations
384
00:25:43,760 --> 00:25:45,680
which we deny to the ear.
385
00:25:45,680 --> 00:25:49,320
Yet it is likely that
the solitary nature of writing
386
00:25:49,320 --> 00:25:52,040
and the accumulative quiet
in which writers spend
387
00:25:52,040 --> 00:25:55,280
most of their working lives
affects our listening capacity.
388
00:25:56,280 --> 00:25:59,520
I have come to regard even
the most extrovert, colourful
389
00:25:59,520 --> 00:26:03,040
and predictable people as mere
displays of the tip of the iceberg
390
00:26:03,040 --> 00:26:05,680
so far as their full reality
is concerned.
391
00:26:07,280 --> 00:26:10,040
And so the writer has to be
a listener in depth.
392
00:26:11,040 --> 00:26:13,760
Not that he can hope to discover
much more of a fraction
393
00:26:13,760 --> 00:26:15,280
of such a reality.
394
00:26:16,520 --> 00:26:21,280
Yet, by listening to a particularly
individual pattern of words,
395
00:26:21,280 --> 00:26:24,040
catching some telltale emphasis,
396
00:26:24,040 --> 00:26:26,880
or by being able to realise
that something is being said
397
00:26:26,880 --> 00:26:30,040
which a speaker may not
have been able to say before,
398
00:26:30,040 --> 00:26:33,200
the writer is hearing all
those infinite possibilities
399
00:26:33,200 --> 00:26:36,880
and experiences which lie
just under the surface of things.
400
00:26:38,280 --> 00:26:41,520
Great novelists, especially,
have always revealed
401
00:26:41,520 --> 00:26:44,280
historic movement and social change
and transition
402
00:26:44,280 --> 00:26:47,520
in a kind of build up
of seemingly casual talk.
403
00:26:47,520 --> 00:26:51,200
It's the latest model. It's British,
I suppose. That's the main thing.
404
00:26:51,200 --> 00:26:53,520
But here is most of...
405
00:26:53,520 --> 00:26:58,040
The French novelist Michel Tournier
has written a brilliant story
406
00:26:58,040 --> 00:27:01,280
about what it is like to live
without hearing another man's talk.
407
00:27:02,520 --> 00:27:05,520
It is called
Friday, or, The Other Island.
408
00:27:07,760 --> 00:27:10,360
I suppose that all three
of my houses have been
409
00:27:10,360 --> 00:27:14,040
rather like other islands.
Writers' houses tend to.
410
00:27:15,280 --> 00:27:18,520
It is travel in every sense
of the word when I leave here.
411
00:27:20,280 --> 00:27:24,040
When I was editing William Hazlitt,
I was very amused by his notion
412
00:27:24,040 --> 00:27:26,760
of talk in the town
and silence in the country.
413
00:27:26,760 --> 00:27:29,760
He actually hoped for anonymity
in the country.
414
00:27:29,760 --> 00:27:31,280
What a hope!
415
00:27:31,280 --> 00:27:34,040
The smaller the community,
the less cover.
416
00:27:35,040 --> 00:27:37,080
BELLS RING
417
00:27:43,040 --> 00:27:46,360
Work makes me travel,
sometimes abroad.
418
00:27:46,360 --> 00:27:48,480
Usually it's libraries
and committees
419
00:27:48,480 --> 00:27:50,680
in neighbouring towns
like Cambridge.
420
00:27:51,680 --> 00:27:54,120
Two kinds of work,
as a matter of fact.
421
00:27:54,120 --> 00:27:56,760
That to do with research
or a meeting
422
00:27:56,760 --> 00:27:59,520
and that compulsive working
of the imagination
423
00:27:59,520 --> 00:28:02,520
which goes on wherever
a writer happens to be.
424
00:28:02,520 --> 00:28:04,520
In a street,
425
00:28:04,520 --> 00:28:07,520
a train, an art gallery.
426
00:28:19,040 --> 00:28:22,440
I got very intrigued by old age
a few years ago.
427
00:28:22,440 --> 00:28:25,040
Real old age,
not this retirement business.
428
00:28:26,040 --> 00:28:28,360
The final experience.
429
00:28:28,360 --> 00:28:31,920
It struck me that this is a
profoundly interesting time of life
430
00:28:31,920 --> 00:28:34,040
because it spreads over
more naturally
431
00:28:34,040 --> 00:28:37,040
than at any other period
one has lived through into death.
432
00:28:39,280 --> 00:28:42,040
Lots of people told me
that they would like to talk
433
00:28:42,040 --> 00:28:45,040
about their senescence,
not their aches and pains
434
00:28:45,040 --> 00:28:48,920
and pensions, but that it was
far too daring a subject.
435
00:28:50,040 --> 00:28:53,840
My book, The View in Winter,
is a collection of travellers' tales
436
00:28:53,840 --> 00:28:56,040
from the country of the very old.
437
00:28:57,040 --> 00:28:59,680
Only those who have lived
a very long time can say
438
00:28:59,680 --> 00:29:02,520
what it is like to be journeying
through this land.
439
00:29:05,040 --> 00:29:07,680
"Sometimes the old check
on the marks they made
440
00:29:07,680 --> 00:29:09,520
"when they were young.
441
00:29:09,520 --> 00:29:11,680
"Even a signature on a tree
442
00:29:11,680 --> 00:29:15,280
"or like the name which a boy carved
high up inside a Suffolk belfry
443
00:29:15,280 --> 00:29:19,520
"when he was 18, which he climbed
the stairs to look at when he was 90
444
00:29:19,520 --> 00:29:22,280
"and near to having it repeated
on a stone below.
445
00:29:23,760 --> 00:29:26,920
"Often there's an intensely
resurgent interest
446
00:29:26,920 --> 00:29:30,400
"in the long journey, just when
it is about to come to an end.
447
00:29:31,400 --> 00:29:33,280
"It reminds me of Rousseau's
448
00:29:33,280 --> 00:29:36,720
"'I only began to live when I
looked upon myself as dead.'
449
00:29:38,280 --> 00:29:40,760
"It is the nature of old men
and women
450
00:29:40,760 --> 00:29:43,760
"to become their own
confessors, poets,
451
00:29:43,760 --> 00:29:47,040
"philosophers, apologists
and storytellers.
452
00:29:48,280 --> 00:29:52,280
"But no single conclusion
can be deduced from what they say.
453
00:29:52,280 --> 00:29:55,440
"Old age is full of death
and full of life.
454
00:29:56,520 --> 00:29:58,280
"It is a disaster.
455
00:29:59,280 --> 00:30:02,040
"It transcends desire
and is taunted by it.
456
00:30:03,040 --> 00:30:07,040
"It is long enough, but it is
far from being long enough.
457
00:30:07,040 --> 00:30:09,520
"As the poet Ruth Fainlight says,
458
00:30:09,520 --> 00:30:11,760
"assume nothing at all.
459
00:30:11,760 --> 00:30:15,760
"Even to hope that you might live
forever brings the end too close."
460
00:30:18,480 --> 00:30:20,520
BIRDSONG
461
00:30:30,040 --> 00:30:33,680
I still occasionally speculate what
it can be like to live somewhere
462
00:30:33,680 --> 00:30:36,360
where the signposts are not
all pointing to the towns
463
00:30:36,360 --> 00:30:38,200
and villages of childhood.
464
00:30:39,440 --> 00:30:41,680
It is not as if,
as some writers have,
465
00:30:41,680 --> 00:30:44,760
I made a vow to stick to
the home ground, but I never did.
466
00:30:44,760 --> 00:30:47,280
And I've often thought that
there could be benefits
467
00:30:47,280 --> 00:30:49,760
from giving it the slip
for a decade or two.
468
00:30:49,760 --> 00:30:53,040
I could say that it had
some kind of pull, etc...
469
00:30:54,040 --> 00:30:56,280
..but inertia comes into it.
470
00:30:56,280 --> 00:30:59,760
On the other hand, I justify myself,
471
00:30:59,760 --> 00:31:03,040
if a writer has stayed at home,
there is no doubt
472
00:31:03,040 --> 00:31:05,520
that he suffers certain
home pressures
473
00:31:05,520 --> 00:31:08,280
and his way of coping with
such stresses and strains
474
00:31:08,280 --> 00:31:10,280
can be the strength of his work.
60074
Can't find what you're looking for?
Get subtitles in any language from opensubtitles.com, and translate them here.