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okay today I'm going to be showing you
how to check and replace the optic
sensor in your ice maker if your ice
maker has one of these optic sensors you
can see we have no ice so what we have
some refrigerators instead of using a
bar to detect the ice level they use a
laser that basically shines through the
ice bin and detects when the ice level
is too high now you see the lights
flashing twice and there's a delay
that's normal when this door is open
basically meaning that the laser is
being blocked but when you close it it
should become a solid red light and
you'll see that's not happening a good
indication that the optics is bad I'm
going to show you another way to test it
too just to be sure but the first step
is we're going to need to take these
three screws out you have to lift up
this door a little bit at least on this
model and there are three Phillips
screws so let's just take those out and
you'll see what's behind there not much
to it now there's this wiring harness
you're going to be very careful
unplugging it because it's so short and
also I recommend you unplug your
refrigerator while doing this because
you can get shocked touching this I'm
not going to because I need the light
source and I'm just not going to touch
it and hopefully not get shocked so take
the wiring harness off and then what
you're looking for is starting at the
top and working down you'll see there's
a pin a missing pin and then a pin on
this one it's the two wires beneath the
yellow wire once you see the the missing
pin it's the two wires directly
underneath that which in this case are
black and white and black and you'll see
the two wires are short I've just got a
little jumper wire here I recommend you
have the refrigerator off while you do
this but you can even use a paperclip to
do this so I'm simply going to jump
these two wires these two pins together
again if you do use a paperclip make
sure you once you turn the refrigerator
back on that you do not touch the
paperclip because they can shock you so
I'm going to short this out and then
this is one of the best ways to test it
I'm going to close it up and give your
ice maker Lyall give your you know maybe
several hours not a day or more and see
if it starts making ice again if so you
know that's the problem okay so let's
get on to replacing it let's assume it's
bad again the other side three screws
just like this side I'm going to take
those out it's got
similar connector and here we see both
I've got both the transmitter and the
receiver you see what it looks like and
I've also got the new ones that I bought
I bought these off of Amazon if you buy
these from whirlpool or KitchenAid you
can expect this the cost I think it's
almost $200 you can get a generic kit
off of Amazon for less than $30 and
that's what free shipping to replace it
it's just 2 Phillips screws on either
one and you can see just how quick it is
to and easy to replace anybody with a
screwdriver can do this I'm just be real
careful absorb anti-static precautions
you know make sure you're not doing this
on a carpeted floor that you've touched
something that's grounded with your
hands before you go do this otherwise
you could ruin this board as well so
we're just going to take the two boards
out replace them with the new ones and I
can tell you that this is literally as
easy as it looks so once we get those
replaced we're going to put them back in
the refrigerator and one of the things I
want to explain you is that a lot of
refrigerators use you probably familiar
with it
they have a bar that gets raised as the
ice rate as the ice level increases and
that bar turns the icemaker off this one
uses these optics to sense the ice level
and when the ice level gets too high it
turns the icemaker off which is when the
optics go bad what generally happens
it'll turn the icemaker off and you
won't be getting ice when in fact just
because it thinks the ice bin is full so
now we're going to plug this in and
these these connectors are really short
and it can be kind of a pain to get them
plugged in and you'll see that it's even
a struggle to kind of get it back in
it's probably a little easier for you
just not making excuses here I'm having
to I'm having to deal with working
around the camera so it's a little more
inconvenient but I'm they will slide
right in they're just going to put your
three screws back in and again there are
other things that can go bad on your ice
maker if it's not filling with water
that's quite often the water control
valve at the back and there are ways to
check that as well but for this one I'm
simply covering the optics because it
literally is the most common eye
I'm to fail on these refrigerators when
the icemaker quits working and it's easy
to test so you can be sure that before
you order one that it is the problem and
that's what I like about this I like not
having to just replace random parts to
see if that fixes it so this is one of
the first things I would test so now
we're going to put the mainboard back in
again I recommend you do this while the
refrigerator is off and if you choose
not to I do recommend that when you're
finished once you get this back in place
I recommend that you cut your
refrigerator off for maybe ten or
fifteen seconds or power it off and then
power it back on just to make sure
you've reset everything and then I'll
show you here how to how to test and
make sure that the optic sensor is in
fact working if you remember from the
beginning of the video I showed you that
the light kept flashing twice even when
the beam wasn't broken which indicates
that it's that the optic sensor is
faulty and now once I get the new one
back in place um
I'll show you how to test it again and
you'll see that the light should go
solid which is it's great that you can
test something that it this easily so
once we get these screws back in I'll
close the flapper door on the other side
we'll see the light goes solid and then
wait 24 hours or so and hopefully you
have ice and as you can see this entire
procedure took me about six minutes it
really did and less than thirty dollars
which is you know probably not even a
half or third what you would pay to have
a technician come out so here you see me
closing the flapper door the light goes
solid and when I let go and the beam is
broken again it flashes it's a very good
way to to know that the optics was in
fact faulty and I kind of want you to
see what it looks like when it's working
correctly so flashing I close it light
goes solid alright hope that helps
see y'all soon
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