Original subtitles

hi i'm tony northrop a professional

photographer for about 25 years and

thanks for watching my free tutorial on

the canon r6 first i'd like to ask you

to subscribe to this channel this video

is going to take a lot of work i'm going

to be real tired by the end of it

subscribing gives me a little bit of

thank you and it lets you see our new

videos for free new camera tutorials new

camera reviews and photography tutorials

if you have a camera other than the r6

we probably have a tutorial for it at

this link send your friends here so they

can have their own tutorial

you should grab a copy of the canon r6

manual and store it on your smartphone

go to sdp dot io slash r6 manual you'll

see our sdp dot io links there

it is 872 pages long that is too long

but you can search through the pdf and

quickly find something that you're

looking for you can't search the menus

on this thing so that's kind of the

quickest way if you are in the field and

you forget something

it's very important to install the

firmware updates for your canon r6 go to

google search for canon r6 firmware

update and it should take you to the

right page canon occasionally releases

these software updates that add features

these have been really really important

in the past in fact if you watch

everyone's earlier reviews of the canon

r6 we had major problems like it was

constantly overheating canon fixed that

with a firmware update thank you ken and

most recently they allowed me to record

video to two card slots and that was a

big deal that meant i was going to use

this as my main day-to-day camera

if you do want to get notifications for

those firmware updates the camera's not

going to tell you you have to manually

check it every now and then i follow

canonrumors.com they'll pretty much

always mention it the lenses get

firmware updates too anytime you buy a

lens make sure that it has a firmware

update and every

couple of months you might want to check

and see if there's anything new

first tips for people upgrading from a

dslr this is a mirrorless camera that

adds a whole bunch of capabilities but

the one you're probably going to miss is

the flip screen the flip screen here is

extremely useful on your old canon dslr

it probably didn't work that well if you

wanted good autofocus you pretty much

had to hold the camera up to your eye

but you can get great auto focus equal

auto focus by using this rear screen it

allows you to shoot from different

angles pop it out shoot from down low

from waist level hold it up over your

head like this be in front of the camera

include yourself as part of the story

use the versatility that the flip screen

and mirrorless camera capabilities

provide to get the most out of your

camera

you might have

dslr canon lenses what they call the ef

lenses you can adapt all of those to

your canon r6 and it will work very well

you just need the 100 ef 2rf adapter

look i have one of my favorite canon

dslr lenses is this 24f14

and i have the ef to rf adapter here you

can see it's not a teleconverter it

doesn't have any optics i can just

connect it to the lens and then i

connect it to the camera body and it

works pretty much like a canon 6d or 5d

mark iv whatever dslr you might have

been using

this also means if you're shopping for

lenses for your canon r6 you should

include all canon dslr lenses you can

get very good deals on them one of our

sponsors keh sells used gear and we have

a five percent coupon code here tnc shop

go to sdp dot io buy now to shop from

them you can also sell them your old

used gear at sdp dot io sell now and get

a five percent bonus with tnc cell if

you can upgrade your dslr lenses to the

mirrorless rf lineup you should the rf

lenses are consistently 100 better than

the dslr dslr lenses but the dslr lenses

are a good standby in the meantime

this camera

has usb charging which your previous

camera might not have on the ports on

the side here you just need to flip open

this top one here the usb port and there

you can see the usbc

port

not all usbc chargers will charge it so

if you're planning to take a trip and

you want to not have to carry a separate

battery charger test your charger first

my macbook pro charger works the charger

in my car works but other ones don't

work the battery life on this can be a

real challenge it will run out of

batteries faster than a dslr might so

you should get a second battery this sdp

that io link will take you to a place

where you can buy it still you can also

get like a usbc battery charger and

charging in the field that really helps

i want to give you a few tips for

getting the most out of your battery

performance and now i'm going to

actually hook up a recorder so i can

record the menu first hit the menu

button and go to what i call camera

eight that's this icon here on the

eighth page you'll see the display

performance menu option here power

saving will reduce the battery usage or

you can pick smooth smooth shows it at a

higher frame rate it it's better to have

it out smooth but your battery life will

disappear noticeably faster the next

setting i suggest you change is to

enable airplane mode on the wi-fi menu

here page one

select airplane mode and select on

if you've never used wi-fi this won't

make a difference but it's easy to leave

wi-fi on and then have a dead battery so

i leave airplane mode on by default and

turn it off only when i'm using the

wireless capabilities

another power saving option is under the

wrench icon up here on page two you'll

see power saving you can select that and

change how long it takes for the display

to turn off one minute is okay but if

you wanted to squeeze a little more

battery life out of this you could

reduce it it turns on really fast so

it's generally not a problem you also

have eco mode here that you can turn on

this just reduces battery usage a little

bit the biggest suggestion i can make is

every time you're done taking pictures

is to turn the camera off

and then get in the habit of as you pick

it up turning it back on it should turn

on really really quick

have you ever been in the heat of the

moment and you forgot something that's

human error and it can totally screw up

your pictures the way i help deal with

this is i've made a sticker that i stick

in this otherwise unused space right

here you can get my template at sdp.io

sticker customize it with your own

preferences and then print it out and

the next time you're in some beautiful

amazing moment and you don't want to

screw it up go through your checklist

it's also a great way just to spark

creativity i'm going to go over the

physical ports on the left side of the

camera here they're all labeled so it's

pretty clear you have the microphone

port here at the top and the headphone

jack below it

they're labeled on the inside too but i

have seen people get those backwards it

can be confusing and then below this you

have a port for a wired remote you'll

probably never need that because

there's a wireless remote that's

excellent and timers and things kind of

negate the previous need to have a wired

remote on the right side here you have

the usb c port that you can use for

transferring pictures to a computer or

mobile device with the usbc cable or for

charging it with a proper charger below

that you have a micro hdmi connector

that's what i am using to record the

menus and such

if you want to use a field recorder like

i am you'll need a micro hdmi to hdmi

recorder you can also use it to like

hook it up to a tv if you want to do a

slideshow or something but nobody really

does that

speaking of remotes this is the wireless

remote that i prefer you can get it at

this link here it's like 40 bucks it

works great the charge lasts a long time

and just a good way to trigger your

camera from remote places

let's talk about the memory card

configuration

in the memory card door here you'll see

it has two sd card slots you should

always be using both of these because

memory cards do fail and you don't want

to lose your pictures i did a poll over

4 000 photographers

new people who hadn't taken many

pictures had never had a card fail but

of those people who'd taken more than a

million photos about 75 of them have had

a card fail and lost pictures at some

point i've had half a dozen cards fail

over my career it doesn't happen all the

time but it is kind of inevitable no

card is 100 reliable things fail and if

your pictures are important to you

especially if you're shooting

professionally you should configure it

to shoot to both cards i'll show you how

to do that now press the menu button and

go to wrench page one this first option

here record funk and card folder select

go down to record options here and

choose record to multiple do that for

both stills and video

now it will record to both cards equally

if one card fails no problem you got a

backup one if you take the first card

out and you're going to put it in the

memory card and then it slips and it

falls through a drain no problem you got

to back up in your camera

if you're traveling things can happen

somebody can steal your bag before you

go anywhere like when you're on your way

home take one of the cards out and put

it somewhere else put it in your

suitcase that you're checking and keep

your camera with you keep those two

cards in separate places whenever

possible i'm an old i.t guy so i'm

always thinking about redundancy right

i want to tell you about the difference

between raw versus jpeg but i made a

whole separate video for it at this link

here sdp dot io raw v jpeg this camera

actually supports two types of raw and

basically two different compressed

formats we have raw and canon raw and

canon raw is like a little bit

compressed but people have a really hard

time ever discerning any difference it

saves you space so you'll be able to fit

more pictures onto a memory card your

pictures will transfer faster they won't

cost as much to store in the cloud so i

strongly suggest using canon raw instead

of regular raw but if you are like a

stickler who wouldn't want to lose any

amount of picture quality then go ahead

and stick with regular raw

raw versus jpeg raw will give you more

dynamic range and allow you to do more

editing allow you to recover shadows

that might have otherwise been lost i'll

show you how to set this now we're going

to go into the menu system it's on

camera page one

and it's so important that they made it

the very first option here image quality

you can see i can switch the front and

back dials to control whether it's

recording raw only like it is now

jpeg only or both raw and jpeg at the

same time there's really no need to ever

use these lower quality jpegs unless you

really need to save space but it's only

20 megapixel cameras so it's not that

big of a deal selecting c raw you can

see i just need to go to this third

option here

you'll notice i am using the dials and

the control stick on the back to

navigate the menus because i'm recording

it to a separate recorder so i can't use

touch but using touch is a far easier

way to go about it so please do that

besides jpeg which is the compressed

format this camera can record files in

half format which is what iphones use

jpg is like this 30 year old standard

for compressed files and hef is just a

newer format that stores more data it

can edit better and takes up less space

so there's no reason you wouldn't want

to use it except some older editors

can't support it but things like

lightroom which i use actually do

support it pretty well to turn this on

it's not logical at all it's not under

the same menu you have to go to camera

page 2 and then go down to the

confusingly named hdpq settings set this

set hd pq

to on

and then go back and if we go back to

image quality here now you can see where

it used to say jpeg there now it says

half so we can still select different

half

formats

i would suggest taking a couple of

sample pictures in half format and

making sure that it works properly with

your editing software speaking of

editing software i personally use

lightroom classic i've written several

books on the matter

i'm also in the process of publishing a

book on standard lightroom when you go

and check out adobe you'll see they have

separate lightroom and lightroom classic

products the biggest difference between

the two is with lightroom you have to

pay adobe to store your pictures with

lightroom classic you can pick how you

want to store your pictures on your own

lightroom classic has still has a lot of

capabilities that regular lightroom

lacks if you're interested in checking

these out there's a free trial at sdp.io

adobe deal i'm going to give you a link

to buy memory cards i suggest getting a

very big memory card because they've

gotten pretty inexpensive and so i like

to use 128 gig or 256 gig cards so i

never run out of space because nothing's

worse than you're in the best possible

moment getting the best pictures and

suddenly card is full and you have to go

back and delete stuff right so you can

get two 256 gig cards here for 150 bucks

and that should pretty much last you

i'm also going to make a suggestion that

you buy extra sd cards and stash them

around your whole life put an sd card in

your car's glove compartment put one in

the drawer in your office put one in

your wallet or your purse this doesn't

have to cost you much at all because i'm

saying buy super cheap cards because at

some point in your career you're going

to be caught without a memory card

because you're going to have taken it

out or you're going to fill up

the space on your current card and

you'll need to switch back to something

go to stp.io

extra sd

to buy the very cheapest sd cards that i

could find and do we actually use those

cards and they're 100 reliable they're

not the best but they're better than

nothing i'm going to show you how to

format your card now

hit the menu button go to the wrench

page 1

and then go down to format card select

which of the two cards they're labeled

on the inside and then select ok you

don't really need to do a low-level

format and i personally don't format my

cards every single time i unload it

because i use the files on the card as a

little bit of a backup like i don't want

to copy all my pictures to my computer

and then have my hard drive fail but

something that happens it's something

that's happened to me and the fact that

i didn't immediately format it allows me

to have an instant backup that's another

reason why you should get a nice big

card so you're not constantly pressured

to format it so you don't run out of

space

related to memory cards i want to show

you a setting that could save you

by default the camera will allow you to

take pictures with no memory card

inserted

what does that get you it's just it's

misleading and it has screwed me over

because i've tested my camera i've heard

the shutter click and i thought i'm good

to go only to get to location and

realize i didn't have a memory card so

hit the menu button go to the camera

icon page six

and release shutter without card set

that to disable set it to off now your

camera won't take pictures when you

don't have a memory card

the camera sensor here will occasionally

gather some dust and that dust is going

to show up on your pictures you can

often fix this automatically go to the

wrench icon here page 4

and then go down to sensor cleaning

notice that auto cleaning is set to at

power off every time you turn the camera

off it's going to shake the sensor and

try to get rid of dust but you can also

do clean now clean sensor now and the

sensor is going to shake a little bit

the dust should go flying off sometimes

you'll have a really stubborn piece of

dust

it shows up in pictures but it really

shows up in video to get rid of that

buy this kit here stp.io

clean stp dot io

ddr24

it's a swab you put some

liquid on it and

swipe it across and it removes all the

dust i have a whole video that teaches

you how to do that i've done it many

times it seems very safe to me go to

menu do sensor cleaning and then do

clean manually and what that will do is

after you select ok here

it will sort of lock the sensor in place

because it has sensor stabilization so

it's kind of on springs normally and

then you can take this off and it will

stay exposed you swipe the swab back and

forth once each way and then you turn

the camera off

this camera has so many different

settings fortunately most of them can be

accessed by pressing the q button on the

back

you can touch these with your finger or

scroll through them with your joystick

here and you can see this is almost

everything you're going to change like i

almost always use ai servo so i'm going

to quickly switch to that you can change

the image quality by pushing the buttons

that it shows there drive mode i almost

always use high or high plus so i'll

switch that i never change the metering

mode anti-flicker shoot i'll talk about

that in a bit but you probably don't

even need to change it white balance

auto white balance is generally fine

cropping aspect ratio is useful

especially like if you want to shoot to

a square format like that nice instagram

grid or you're creating something that

will fit into somebody's home decor you

can select this and then use that back

dial to change the crop and you can see

it will mask it off for you

the raw file will still record the

original full frame but it helps you

just compose the photo you can record a

video on this camera anytime by pressing

the record button on the top however i

suggest you move the mode dial over to

the video camera for one on the back

display as it previews it it crops it

down to 16x9 so you see the correct

aspect ratio but switching to video mode

also changes the menu system unlocking a

few extra capabilities and doing things

like showing your audio levels so it's a

pretty useful feature

take a minute and plug our books and

video training go to northrop.photo or

this link here and you can see we've

written the number one book on

photography this is stunning digital

photography it's not just a book it has

20 hours of video look it up on amazon

and has more than 5 000 5 star reviews

like people have loved it for a long

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like smartphones and drones because i

assume every photographer now is working

with multiple different cameras you'll

like it but if you don't i'll give you

your money back everything has a full

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on lightroom and photoshop i have a

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you choose which cameras and lenses to

spend your money on and i promise it'll

all save you a lot of money thanks for

checking it out now i want to talk about

using exposure compensation sometimes

the camera is going to look at a scene

and

guess how bright or dark it needs to be

with the automatic settings and it's

going to guess wrong it's going to over

or underexpose your photo that's super

easy to fix with exposure compensation

to adjust the brightness of the image

i'm going to half press the shutter and

now i'm going to move the back dial up

or down

and you can see the brightness of the

image is changing

if you're using a canon rf lens

this is cool you can use the

ring on the front of the lens here it's

programmable overexposed underexposed

all by using this front ring

this camera has the standard modes that

you're probably used to manual aperture

priority shutter priority

i'm going to suggest you learn about

camera settings by watching these other

videos here or by reading stunning

digital photography that'll tell you how

these different modes work there is one

mode that you've probably never seen

before and that's flexible priority af

as indicated by fv here and that lets

you independently change each of the

different settings and it's so flexible

that you might never need to use a

different mode

with your finger you can touch any of

the different settings at the bottom and

either make them automatic or manually

specify what you want the setting to be

thus you don't have to think oh i want

i'm in aperture plato now and i also

want to control the shutter that means i

need to switch to manual or oh suddenly

i don't want to control the shutter so i

should go back to aperture priority you

just think about the individual settings

if you're not a fan of the touch screen

you can use the back dial to oscillate

between the different settings and then

use the front dial to change them

why won't my camera focus the number one

answer is that the diopter is screwed up

the diopter is this little dial here

next to your viewfinder and it's like a

glasses prescription built in here no

almost nobody has perfect vision so what

you should do is hold the camera up to

your eye make sure you can see it and

then adjust the diopter up and down

until the numbers you see

are nice and sharp don't look through

the lens but look at the camera's

display itself

and if you hand the camera to somebody

else you're going to have to tell them

to adjust the diopter and then when you

take it back you're going to have to

adjust it yourself

another really confusing thing that

screws people up is this lock button on

top when you push this it is locked and

you can no longer change the settings

this happens where people are like my

camera is broken all the buttons and

dials don't work it's just that they

accidentally press the lock button so

push it again until it goes off you can

use the touch screen to activate the

shutter

normally with touch shutter it just

focuses where you touch when you enable

the touch shutter by touching the lower

left corner you can touch the screen and

it will instantly take a picture

when you're working with the camera held

out at arm's length that's a really easy

way to both focus and take pictures at

the same time the r6 has three different

shutter modes and it's very important

that you understand the difference their

electronic mechanical and electronic

first curtain shutter first i'll show

you how to change them go into the menu

system and go to the camera page six

and now you'll see shutter mode by

default is that electronic first curtain

shutter that is a good

general purpose setting you might also

want to select electronic shutter

however for some reason it won't let me

do that with hdr pq settings set so i

have to go back and change that

so strange

okay

now switch the shutter mode to

electronic

this makes the camera silent when you

take pictures it also allows the camera

to take pictures at up to 20 frames per

second a dramatic increase from 12

frames per second that makes it

excellent for action sports wildlife and

the silent shutter is perfect for you

know photographing a quiet jazz concert

or something

but electronic shutter comes with side

effects especially when you're doing

rapid panning or shooting fast moving

subjects it's called rolling shutter

because of how the camera reads out the

sensor when it doesn't have a mechanical

shutter there here i am using an

electronic shutter and a mechanical

shutter at a sports field panning along

with a fast-moving subject you can see

with the mechanical shutter the

crossbars are completely straight with

the electronic shutter they tilt to the

side that's what happens moving things

become diagonal electronic shutters can

also cause banding under artificial

lights you're going to run into this

when you're shooting in a concert inside

at night or sporting events in in a

gymnasium and it can absolutely ruin

your pictures especially with faster

shutter speeds here is side-by-side

pictures of the led lights behind me at

1 500th of a second mechanical

electronic shutter they look identical

right but when we jump up to 1 1000th of

a second now we see these bands

appearing and if i jump up to 1 2 000 of

a second those bands become even more

distinct

so if you're shooting at concert choose

the electronic shutter but use slower

and slower shutter speeds and it

shouldn't be any problem at all

but if you're shooting like professional

sports you might want to be at 1 2 000

of a second and that banding could

become a concern

in those cases you would want to switch

to the mechanical shutter so when you do

use the electronic shutter try to keep

the shutter speed down with some regular

moving subjects especially under natural

light electronic shutter is perfect each

one should be aware of the limitations

there's a menu option called

anti-flicker and people are always like

why don't i just turn that on i have

never seen that it makes a difference

here's how anti-flicker works the camera

is kind of watching the lights flicker

on and off around you they're always

flickering they just flicker so fast you

can't see it with your eye but the

camera can see it and when you tell it

to take a picture it's going to say no

no we're in the middle of a flicker i'm

just going to wait until the lights

switch on in that tiny fraction of a

second before i take the picture you

probably won't notice it though it can

slow down your shooting but in those

banding pictures you saw you saw that it

was actually flickering on and off

multiple times within a single frame so

it can't solve that all it can do is

delay a picture for a split second to

eliminate the flickering so it can help

in some situations but it's not the cure

that you might want it to be to turn it

on you can see on camera page 2 here it

is i'm trying to turn it on but because

i'm using an electronic shutter i can't

do it so i have to go back here and

change the shutter mode to electronic

first

curtain shutter and switch it to enable

now of course

you mostly need anti-flicker shooting

when you have an electronic shutter

because that's when the flickering

really happens but it doesn't make any

difference so if you're shooting with

the mechanical and you want to go an

extra step go ahead and turn that on i

mentioned that the electronic shutter

lets you shoot at 20 frames per second

the mechanical shutter lets you shoot at

12 but there are some restrictions on

when it will actually shoot at that

higher frames per second when your

battery drops below 50 percent the frame

rate is going to drop down so if you're

shooting sports or action bring multiple

batteries and swap them out and it will

hit 50 percent

real fast you might be there in 20

minutes of shooting so be prepared for

that on the main screen here along the

left you'll see it shows high plus in

green that means it's ready for a full

12 frames per second but as the battery

gets a little lower or circumstances are

a little different it will turn either

white or white and blinking in which

case you will get the frames per second

shown on this grid here this is directly

from the manual at sdp dot io

r6 manual

i hate it when cameras beep and this

camera doesn't beat by default but if it

does happen to get turned on go to the

wrench page 2

go to beep and select disable

i want to plug our own store one more

time because that's how we pay for this

we are a mom-and-pop shop it's me and

chelsea if you order something from

northrop.photo i will go to the garage

next to my truck and pull out a box and

then mail you the book in an envelope

okay this is not some big production

okay we're not some multinational

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even get the video lovers bundle where

you get all three together so head to

northrop.photo and i bet you'll find a

coupon at the top of the banner there

i'm going to show you how to use back

button focus your camera by default will

automatically focus when you press the

shutter button halfway

that's okay a lot of people shoot that

way i personally prefer to have complete

control over when it focuses and how it

focuses and with the r6 there's a

particularly good reason for that and

that is eye detect autofocus this camera

has amazing eye detect autofocus it can

find the eye really easily but it is not

100 reliable

if you do not have eye detect autofocus

on then it might focus on the wrong part

of the frame especially when you're

shooting a person so but when you do

have it on it might think it sees an eye

in the background especially things like

tree branches that have lots of little

shadows in the bark it will lock onto an

eye and not lose focus and that can make

you miss shots so what i do is i use a

special variation on back button focus

where i use the af on button for

standard focusing and then i use a

little asterisk button to enable eye

detect autofocus that way eye detect

autofocus only turns on when i want it

i'm going to show you how to do this too

first here's a video on why you might

want to use back button focus at sdp dot

io ybb

here is my auto focus configuration

first i set the drive mode to high plus

that's not related autofocus i just

always like to rattle off a couple of

pictures in case one of them ends up

shaky for the focusing mode i always

choose servo over one shot servo means

it will track subjects as they move

forward and back one shot finds a focus

and then stops on older canon cameras we

might have told you to use one shot

because servo wasn't reliable enough for

still subjects but still subject's

moving subjects it's always servo for

the eye detection i'm going to the q

menu here

i turn eye detect off and then i enable

one point af that's just how i prefer to

auto focus but i'm going to show you how

to enable eye detect autofocus on a

button so i'm hitting the menu here i'm

going to go to the custom menus here

page 3 and then customize buttons i'm

going to select this i'm going to select

the shutter button here and i'm going to

set it to just metering start this way

when i half press the shutter it will

not start autofocus it's only going to

activate autofocus when i press af on or

the asterisk button now i'm going to

scroll down to af on i'm going to select

this and then this is going to be

metering in af start it's already set to

that now i'm going to scroll down to the

asterisk button

this i'm going to set to iaf

and now eye detection autofocus will be

activated when i press the asterisk

button so let's check it out on my

little dude here

notice i'm pressing the shutter button

nothing is happening this means i am

free to manually focus and it will keep

that manual focus that's one of the

benefits of it when i do want general

autofocus i can just press the af on and

it will lock on i can let go focus and

recompose just like you might with a

dslr when i want eye detect autofocus

i'm going to press the asterisk and you

can see it's locking right onto the eye

you also have the option of animal iaf

hit the menu button here go to the af

menu page one

subject to detect

animals or no priority you can select

animals and it will still find people

but it will prefer animals over people

and no priority means it'll just find

any eyes in the scene if you're

switching between animals and people no

priority is a pretty safe bet to just

leave it on all the time if you don't

take pictures of animal just leave it on

people again it's not a hundred percent

if you're shooting wildlife it's going

to work great most of the time then it's

going to sometimes leave you frustrated

there's a few tricks for manually

focusing if you use back button focus

you can just grab the focusing ring and

manually focus at any time you can also

switch the switch on the lens to manual

focus and now you'll see it's showing me

a little distance measure by default and

now it will not auto focus if i push the

magnify button on the back it will zoom

in and that is a really sure way to lock

onto focus in fact that's the only sure

way to really lock onto focus

we also have the option of focus peaking

which highlights the highest contrast

parts of the picture sort of helping you

get generally in the area of focus i'll

show you how to enable that on af page

2. you'll see mf manual focus peaking

settings set that select peaking to on

the level here should generally be low

and then the color should be something

that's not in your scene so if you're

photographing something red red peaking

wouldn't show up well so you want to

switch that to like blue but i'll leave

it at red

i showed you how to customize a few

buttons but there are many others that

you can customize from the custom menu

settings up here page three

you can customize dials which is things

like the direction or what the different

dials do and you can also customize the

buttons or the control ring direction

and if you screw things up too far you

can just clear your customized settings

i shoot portraits i shoot sports i shoot

wildlife they all have different sets of

camera settings and it's not just

shutter speed and aperture but it can be

focusing mode even raw versus jpeg a

bunch of other things it would take me a

while to get my camera set for each of

those different

scenarios right so what i do is i set it

up for one of those settings and then i

save it in c1 c2 c3 which are groups of

customized settings i'm going to show

you how to do that now first put the

camera into the mode that you want to

shoot so let's say we're doing sports

here let's say it's professional fast

athletes so i'm going to be at 1 2 000

of a second

set the iso to auto

set the focusing mode to expand af area

which is good for tracking

i'm in servo af already now that i've

got it set up i'm going to go into the

menus i'm going to go to the wrench page

5 custom shooting mode and i'm going to

register the settings let's say sports

are going to be c1

i'm going to set that to c1

now let's go to portrait so i'm going to

let's say i'm going to drop this down to

the sync speed 1 250th of a second i

have it wide open

and

for the sake of demonstration i'll turn

on eye detect autofocus

now i'll go into the menus here i'll do

custom shooting mode register settings

custom shooting mode c2 this will save

my portrait settings as c2 so now sports

are c1

portraits or c2

anytime i want to go back to my sport

settings i just move the top dial over

to c1 and bam you can see i'm at 1 2 000

of a second suddenly i'm shooting

portraits after the game of the winning

team bam c2 i'm in portrait mode

take advantage of that to customize it

according to how you use it the info

button on the back allows you to

oscillate between different settings

pressing the info button shows your

histogram or it clears all the

unnecessary clutter so you can focus on

what you're doing or it fills the entire

screen with your camera settings which

can make it a little easier to touch and

adjust settings so keep just switching

between the info mode until you get to

the amount of settings that you want

this works just as well when you have

your eye up to the viewfinder it can

also work when you're reviewing pictures

if you never use some of those settings

you can get rid of them hit the menu

button go over to camera page seven

go to shooting info display shooting

info settings and here you can see all

the different settings and you can turn

some off

like this is too cluttered for me so

i'll just turn that off and now when i

switch between the info settings it

won't show up you might also find some

other interesting settings here like

whether the histogram displays for

brightness or rgb

you could learn about that in stunning

digital photography if you haven't

already under vf info toggle settings

you can change the settings that appear

when you're using your viewfinder

because they're categorized separately

i'll show you how to use the interval

timer which is really good for making

time lapses but it's also a good way to

take self portraits like you want to

jump in the picture with all your family

what i do is i set the interval timer to

go off every five seconds and then i

just set the camera firing and i walk

around and be with my family and after a

few shots everybody gets into the meter

of it firing every five seconds it's

easier than fussing with a remote

control right so go into the menu system

here you're gonna go to camera page six

interval timer set it to enable then hit

the info button and you can adjust the

interval right now it's at every ten

seconds so i'll select that and then

just go down to every five seconds and

then how many pictures do you want it to

take you can scroll down and just go to

unlimited if you just wanted to take

pictures forever and then

select ok and the next time you take a

picture

you can see timer is blinking there and

it's just going to keep taking pictures

every five seconds

until well you turn the camera off since

i set it to unlimited this camera has

sensor stabilization any lens you put on

it will be stabilized it also works with

lenses that have the stabilization built

in if there are lenses that can work

together for really excellent

stabilization that helps cancel out

camera shake

some people think you need to turn off

stabilization when you put it on a

tripod with the r6 i've never found that

to be a problem so i leave stabilization

on all the time

if you have a lens that has

stabilization and you hit that is off

switch that turns off both the lens and

the sensor stabilization so that will

completely eliminate stabilization you

can also turn off stabilization from the

camera page 7 menu

here we go is stabilization mode you'll

see is mode you can switch that to off i

have never needed to do that i just

wanted to show you where it was you also

have video digital is

the way that works is it's electronic

stabilization it tracks the camera's

movement and then basically it crops the

video and the window moves up or down as

you're moving to help eliminate the

stabilization turn that on if you're

like walking with the camera and you

want a little bit of extra crop

you have the still photo mode here

either always or only for shot if you

want to save a little bit of battery you

can put it on for only for shot that

means that it will not try to stabilize

until you press the shutter but if

you're using a long lens especially the

stabilization really makes it much more

pleasant to look through the viewfinder

because you'd be surprised how shaky

your hands are hit the play button on

the back of your camera to review your

pictures and you can just scroll through

them you can use the touch screen to

zoom in and out they make it really easy

you can hit the info button to change

the information that's displayed on the

screen

if you want to customize these settings

you can go into the menu system here and

go over to the playback menu here and

there's a bunch of settings here that

allow you to do a lot of customization

i've never needed to customize this you

can do things like convert a raw file to

a jpeg i've never needed to do that

this is where it is just in case you

need to do it in the upper left corner

of your camera you'll see a rate button

that allows you to rate a picture from

one to five stars just press it

repeatedly here's a little picture of my

friend beautiful i want it to be five

stars

that's stored in the pictures metadata

when i import my pictures into lightroom

or whatever other processor that

picture's still going to be rated five

stars that means i can do a full photo

shoot and cull while the client is

relaxing or while the wedding guests are

eating i can go through my pictures and

when i sit down at my desk all my best

pictures are already going to be rated

five it just helps me better utilize my

downtime and allows me to spend less

time on the computer something i'm all

about you can customize that rate button

page four go to rate button function and

you can change it to protecting or

erasing images

speaking of erasing images i like to

delete pictures that didn't turn out so

i don't waste the storage space or the

time importing them

you can hit the delete button anytime to

delete a picture but then you have to

scroll to the left to delete it the

trashcan isn't selected by default but

it can be if you go to the custom menu

page 4 here

you'll see default erase option

by default cancel is selected but you

want erase selected only do that if

you're not that afraid of deleting

pictures and you want to save yourself a

little bit of time

if you want your pictures to

automatically review or you don't want

it to review here's where you can figure

that go to camera page 7.

select image review

and then here you can change the review

duration i set it to off

i don't want it to automatically show my

pictures if i want to see a picture i'll

hit the play button otherwise i don't

want to be taken out of the moment

because you can miss a picture when

you're trying to review your last

picture

and then

some people actually want to review

their pictures in the viewfinder

normally it only shows on the back

screen but if you want to do that you

could set that to enable

but i don't do that dslr shooters you're

used to not seeing the exposure

previewed when you look through the

viewfinder you just see what's happening

in the lens if you're overexposing your

picture or under exposing it looks

exactly the same my favorite thing about

mirrorless cameras is they do preview

the exposure and i love that but

sometimes you're using artificial light

and if you're popping a strobe and

you're looking through the viewfinder

well the camera's not going to pop the

strobe every time you look through the

viewfinder so it doesn't know how bright

or dark things are going to be

and if you're counting on that strobe to

light up the room then the scene the

camera sees without the flash is going

to be underexposed and everything's

going to be dark if you're ever in that

situation go to camera page 7 and go

down to exposure simulation and turn it

off to disable and now your camera will

always show a reasonable exposure just

like you'd see through a dslr viewfinder

i would use this anytime i'm using flash

photography

except that normally with canon

compatible flashes

it will automatically turn off exposure

simulation so you don't have to worry

about that but i have found with some

primitive flashes that don't talk the

canon communication protocols it will

not automatically switch so you might

have to do that manually so i wanted you

to know where it is

bulb mode allows you to take pictures

longer than 30 seconds so you could take

a 10 minute exposure and actually like

show the stars moving obviously you

would only do this in a really dark

environment

first this top dial here put it into b

mode once you're in b mode hit the menu

button go to camera page six go down to

bulb timer and select enable now hit the

info button and set the exposure time so

here i can go up to

10 minutes

and then select ok and now when i hit

the shutter button

you can see it starts counting down to

my 10 minute interval i don't want to

wait this whole time so i'll just have

to press the shutter button again and it

will stop

that's much easier than having to pull

out a remote shutter timer which we used

to have to do we're getting near the end

so one more plug for our store at

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this camera has hdr built in hdr is high

dynamic range where it captures a series

of images overexposed underexposed and

properly exposed and then combines those

pictures together in post you can do

that in camera and it's bad you should

not it does a terrible job of combining

the pictures what you should do instead

is use auto exposure bracketing it's

kind of weird it's on camera page two

you see expo comp slash aeb it's

terribly named now i'm going to use the

front dial

and that bottom series of bars there is

showing me that it's going to take three

pictures

minus two stops exposure compensation

zero stops exposure compensation and

then plus two stops exposure

compensation the first was properly

exposed the second was underexposed and

the third was overexposed what do you do

now you need some software to combine

them in post-processing and extract that

extra dynamic range i like adobe

lightroom classic myself which you can

get at adobe deal you just select those

three pictures right click them select

photo merge and then merge to hdr this

camera has really good wireless

capabilities it can connect your

smartphone and transfer pictures it can

even connect your wi-fi network and send

pictures to the canon image.canon

network where they will then get

offloaded to google drive or adobe

creative cloud or even your own pc

so finally you can have a true wireless

life without having to pull the memory

cards out i'm going to make a separate

tutorial for all of that because i'm

tired because this is a lot so check

sdp.io tutorial where all my camera

tutorials are and soon hopefully you'll

see it also subscribe so it pops up in

your feed

honestly i the wireless capabilities

work okay but they're a little slow and

what i end up doing instead when i want

to transfer pictures to my smartphone or

a tablet or a computer is they use a

memory card reader memory card readers

work on any of those devices all new

smartphone operating systems handle the

import and export and you can use apps

like lightroom mobile to process raw

images just like you would on your

computer here are links to an android sd

card and an apple sd card but you can

find sd cards for whatever device you

want

you can set the copyright info so every

time you take a picture it adds your

name to the picture's metadata like

copyright tony north pretty cool right

your pictures are automatically

copyrighted in the united states you

don't have to do this but i thought i

would show you where it is go to the

wrench page five and go down to

copyright information enter author's

name and then you can type it in like a

little keyboard

have you noticed how i have to like

write down the page number of all these

settings because even though i spent so

much time with this camera i haven't

memorized everything

what you want to do is you want to add

your frequently used menu items to the

custom my menu which is something you

build yourself it's this very last menu

with the star here

first thing you do is add a my menu tab

it's going to be my menu tab one and

then you can configure my menu tab one

select items to register and then select

the menu items that you frequently use

like i often use bracketing so i want

that one to be part of it let's say i

often also adjust the image quality so

i've added two of those things i'll hit

menu to back out here and now you can

see my menu page one shows those two

menu items you can add multiple tabs add

multiple items to the menu it's a really

quick way to access frequent settings

now we'll talk a little bit about the

video capabilities of this camera as i

mentioned before you can hit the record

button on top at any time to start

recording video but it's better to

actually switch the dial mode over to

the movie mode first as i hit the info

button here

you can see i can switch between

different settings but one of them will

actually show me the audio levels on the

camera that can be really important as

you're setting it up once you start

recording i'll have to hit the info

button again to see those settings you

have two different modes here

full movie auto exposure and manual

movie exposure there's no shutter

priority there's no aperture priority

you're just all or nothing though in

manual mode you can use auto iso as i

have set here now

i'll say the auto exposure works pretty

good so you usually don't have to sweat

it but i thought i would show you where

that is

you have options for several different

codecs under movie record quality here

you can see i can select movie record

size and you'll see all these different

options we do most of our recording with

4k at 59.94 which is basically 60 frames

per second it's nice and smooth

and using the standard ipb codec you can

see the next one here is light ipb so we

can choose for a given resolution and

frame rate i can choose between standard

and light light simply compresses it a

little bit more resulting in a smaller

video file size that's easier to

transfer around a little bit easier to

edit

and it's fine i have never noticed any

artifacts with light i'm just a stickler

for quality so

that's why i use the standard one

another useful video mode you should

know about is movie cropping i'll select

that here and then when i select enable

it crops down so it's doing a one-to-one

readout of the center of the frame and

basically it allows you to shoot a

little more telephoto so if you're at

the long end of your lens and you want

to reach a little bit further without

cropping in post turn on movie cropping

mode to get that resolution without such

a high decrease in quality back under

movie record quality you'll see a second

option which is high frame rate this

allows me to shoot at 120 frames per

second now i was in 4k at 60 frames per

second so when i select this it's going

to jump to 120 frames per second but

drop me down to 1080 hd so a quarter the

resolution this is good for slow motion

if you capture at 120 frames per second

you can slow it down to 30 frames per

second with slow four times slow motion

note that high frame rate does not

record sound that is frustrating what

you might want to do is record you know

your friend skateboarding

twice record it once at full speed so

you can capture the audio and then

record it again in slow motion so you

can slow it down or you could use an

external recorder and have somebody clap

on camera they need to

clap because then you can synchronize

the clapping of the video with the clap

sound on your external recorder

canon log allows you to record video

with extra dynamic range you can turn

this on by going to the camera menu page

3 down to canon log settings set canon

log to c log or c log 3.

c log is the older standard

and it requires i think it gives you

like 13 stops of dynamic range

c log 3 is a newer standard and it gives

you one extra stop of dynamic range the

c-log quality will actually be a little

bit better tiny bit better if you don't

have to extract as much dynamic range as

possible but if you're shooting your

friend and their face is entirely in

shadow and you want to catch the details

in the sky and it's just a really high

dynamic range scene then go ahead and

switch c log on

you will need to apply a lookup table a

lut while you're editing the video so

you can google c log 3 lut and then drop

that into final cut pro or premiere pro

or whatever you're using to get that

video looking normal again but once you

do you'll be able to adjust the exposure

up or down raise the shadows drop the

highlights and it'll look much better

now with c-log enabled it's compressing

the dynamic range it's compressing the

highlights and the shadows down so i

could recover more in post

and a side effect of that is everything

looks washed out so look at my friend

here he's all washed out i can fix how

it looks in the viewfinder by going back

into canalon settings and turning on

view assist so with this turned back to

on now we can see there's a little bit

more contrast added back into the scene

you can also adjust the sharpness

strength saturation hue as well as the

color space if you have specific

requirements but again you don't need to

do all this most people will never need

to do all of this you're better off just

sticking with the standard settings

let's talk about how it records sound

you almost never want to use the

on-camera mic unless it's just for

scratch audio where you're syncing up

and pulling from another mic you should

attach an external mic to the mic import

that will greatly improve your sound

you also don't ever want to use the

automatic settings again unless it's

just for scratch audio you want to

switch it to manual the problem is in

quiet moments between words automatic

settings will often raise the volume up

so you'll hear like background noise

will suddenly get loud whenever there's

a pause and it's really frustrating to

try to edit out

go into the menu system camera page one

go down to sound recording and select

sound rec

manual

now i can adjust the levels up or down

i'm going to need to do this i'm going

to need to do it so it doesn't peak you

can see as i'm getting close here i kind

of want so it's just touching the

yellows a little bit like that's a

pretty good compromise then i click the

set button to save that

now as i'm recording video you can see

right now there's nothing showing on the

screen i'll need to hit the info button

here so that i can see the levels on

screen if you're vlogging if you got

that screen flipped towards yourself

make sure you take a look at those

levels every now and then so you don't

record a whole video with no sound

mistake i've made before i want to

remind you where digital is is this can

help smooth out walking video give you

almost a gimbal-like effect so to go to

camera page 7 select image stabilizer

mode digital is and set that to on that

will crop a little bit if you want even

more stabilization and more cropping go

to enhanced

zebras help a videographer determine

which parts of the scene are a little

bit too bright because videographers

often are shooting for post processing

so they want to capture as much dynamic

range as possible and if you over expose

a part of the scene it can never be

recovered shadows can usually be

recovered a little bit you can quickly

find the overexposed parts of the scene

by using zebras under camera page 7 i

will go down to zebra settings and set

this to on

and you can see here i can change the

pattern as well as where the patterns

kick in so there's two different

patterns zebra level one is set at

seventy percent roughly and then zebra

level two kicks in at a hundred percent

so as i switch back to my view here you

can see around this highlight here those

weird lines those are zebras and it's

showing me that that glare is a little

bit over exposed

notice it's showing at seventy percent

and not a hundred percent i need to go

back in to the zebra pattern and set it

to zebra pattern one and two so now i

have two levels and as i really

overexpose something

there we can see the brightest parts are

now showing zebra pattern two showing it

at over a hundred percent

earlier i showed you how to use the

timer the intervalometer to record still

photos and an interval that you could

later stitch into a time lapse that's a

great way to make a time lapse but if

you're a vlogger and you see something

quick and dirty of the sun rising over a

period of time so you can drop it

directly into your editor this is a

separate time-lapse mode that will

record a video so go into your menu

system camera page 5

and go down to time lapse movie and now

i can set time lapse to enable

i can set the movie record size to 4k

change the interval and the number of

shots and then when i'm ready i just

need to hit record

we're through the hardest part of the

tutorial now i'm just going to make some

suggestions for flashes and tripods and

we can get out of here the flash i like

to use is not a canon flash the canon

flashes are super expensive these godox

flashes work great and you can buy three

of them for the price of a single canon

i like the

v862s you can get one of the godox

remote triggers for it and

it works fantastic they have three

remote triggers but the basic one here

works fine and doesn't take up much

space so hit stp dot io

c flash

if you're in a studio with strobes what

we use are the flashpoint explorer 600

pro or you can get the ad600bm

if you don't need like ttl and other

features it's a little bit less

expensive those use the same triggers

it's so nice to be able to use the same

trigger to trigger flashes and strobes

in any combination thereof head to sap

dot io slash godox canon to find those

now i want to suggest two tripods at

different price points my favorite

general travel tripod is the be free

tripod at sdp dot io slash befree they

have both still and video oriented

versions of the be free and you can get

them in plastic or carbon fiber

depending on your budget and how much

weight matters to you

a luxury tripod if you're a fancy person

and you like the quality of things how

they feel the gitzo tripods are just

amazing like they're all amazing i use

the gitzo series one when i'm traveling

at stp dot io gitzo and i use the sony

quick release plate it is just a special

quick release plate for pretty much any

mirrorless camera that has a little lip

on it and stops the quick release plate

from twisting around get that at stp dot

io sony qrp

one less plug for northrop.photo check

out our flash video training series

which will show you how to get the most

out of your flashes and we'll do so much

to improve your pictures

it's more than an hour of video and it's

super inexpensive and it helps to

support your favorite photography

teacher tony northrup thanks so much for

watching in the comments down below i'd

love to hear your follow-up questions as

well as tips that you've learned maybe

something i missed about how to get the

most out of your canon r6 don't forget

to subscribe and give this video a like

please bye