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Sminky-Pinky!
Meeks.
- Do you want to fix my hair? - Yes.
I was thinking about a line down there and two, which comes up from behind.
- As one... - ...a V.
Haute couture.
The original documentary about Alexander McQueen.
"The McQueen Tapes."
I did not care what else or myself thought about me-
- so I searched into the dark and pulled the horrors from the depths of my soul-
and on the catwalk.
Many claim that they discovered Alexander McQueen-
- but you do not discover talent. The is there and can be helped on the way.
Nobody discovered Alexander McQueen. He discovered himself.
Lee had a strange CV.
I was not very good at school. I always designed clothes.
In natural sciences and in biology.
But I liked imagery.
After school he did not know, what he wanted. He searched for a job.
My husband is strict with, that the children should work.
We sat and watched television an evening-
- and heard that they were missing apprentices to Savile Row.
I said he should try.
They could just say yes or no. So he went in there.
Anderson and Sheppard were founded in 1906. We do things differently.
We have our own style, as our apprentices teach.
I was taught by a tailor from Cork.
He was our best tailor.
First year, collars and pockets are made
- but you should be able to make a jacket after a year.
It should fit perfectly and feels tailor made.
I could not stay there rest of life-
- in a small tailoring and fore reverses.
But I burned for it and was good at it.
I learned quickly. I learned to sew pants and wanted to learn everything.
In the early 90's I had a tailoring on Mount Street.
He came in one day and looked like a skinhead.
He said he could cut better than a tailor of 50 years.
I was curious and asked him to show, what he could.
I have never made clothes in a traditional way.
I experimented to create structure and fullness.
I started with any material.
By putting them together you can create three-dimensional shapes.
He would like to understand why I did something in a certain way.
When Lee was 17 years old, he would make some skirts to me.
They fit like feet in the hose. They were perfectly sewn to my body.
I could barely move my legs, but got many compliments.
I hoped he would find it, which suited him.
He was a cute boy from the East End, who would earn money.
We needed mechanics, mønsterklippere-
- people with experience from Manufacturing of clothes.
He never broke down, met time and knew what he was doing.
He always listened to Sinéad O'Connor.
It did not make anyone else at that time, but he liked her.
I remembered him with his walkman.
... two, one. Ignition. Start.
Red or Dead was a young streetwear company.
When I said, that the space baby collection-
- was inspired by the anniversary of moon landing, he was astonished.
He did not know that one of the subjects, who did not have clothes to do-
-one is inspired to design clothes.
He did not understand the idea of visual research and historical references.
We are landed. Eagle is the land.
He asked, "What can I do now to develop me? "
At that time all Italian started fashion houses new badges.
He went to Italy without being able to language and without housing and money.
I thought he would come home after a week with the tail between the legs.
One week later called Lee from Italy.
He had got a job with Romeo Gigli.
To say I was shocked, is an understatement.
I said, that I wanted a new jacket.
"I have an idea, but mine tailors can not make it. "
"You might help me."
We started the jacket and had first cooking.
I said: "No, that's not what I want."
The tailor and Lee made another order.
We tried the second time. I looked at lining and that was wrong.
Third fix. Wrong again.
I took lined up and on the inside they had written in black:
"Go to hell, Romeo!"
At that point I was looking for new forms. Shapes, shapes.
He looked carefully and thoroughly.
He really tried to understand everything.
He stopped at me, because he wanted to study.
You can not teach them talent. You can make them better for what they do.
For me, the idea of education-
- that they should work in teams, as you do in the fashion industry.
I saw a not particularly intriguing, rather shabby and unattractive ...
I'm sorry to say that, but that's how it was.
... boy with a stack of clothes on his arm, who sat outside my office.
I asked who he was looking for, and it turned out to be me.
I had no posts, but I was interested.
He was passionate. It is the secret if you find it.
I offered him to start my course.
I could not offer money. It was clear that he had no one.
Our aunt Renee had a little spared up and wanted to help Lee.
She had worked with clothes and knew, that Lee had talent.
He came back and said that his aunt would pay for the course.
Saint Martins was the best. There was freedom to express themselves-
-and encompasses like-minded ones.
We were good friends because we had same kind of humor.
He always laughed and was fun and disrespectful.
He walked the catwalk on the hallways and made fun with everyone all the time.
Could he make fun, he did it.
I taught there at the time.
He was not afraid to say, that he knew better.
He was a nightmare, because he could so much.
He was probably demanding, but he never dared to interrupt me.
But he used it, as I had thought.
He could see a painting or a book ...
Since he had no education, was everything new to him.
He interpreted everything in his own way.
It was not filtered, as with us-
- with more conventional backgrounds. I loved that.
He knew where to find everything. London was his city.
"Who has buttonholes?" "Martin in Soho."
"Do you want textiles, so do Berwick Street and Shepherd's Bush. "
He took me to gay men-
- and said, that it and it was something for me.
"No, I want to go home and read."
The course ended with a show.
No other schools was invited to the fashion week.
He called when he was almost done with his collection and asked me to come.
It had all the elements.
There was East End's story, the darkness with Jack the Ripper.
There was research and a good story.
He read the "Perfume," which deals with female murder-
-and he had a dark side
He was inspired by that-
and created something very beautiful of it.
The clothes passed me and moved in a way I had never seen.
I wanted it. It was modern. It was classical.
There was a black jacket with human hair on the blood red for.
It was like a body like flesh and blood.
It was the most beautiful, I had ever seen.
Sabotage and tradition. A perfect combination.
Beauty and violence. Everything that the 90s represent.
- Is it hard to see genius? - No. They have it and I see it.
If you go to fashion history at the time, do you know Isabella Blow.
I was at American Vogue, when Anna Wintour discovered me.
McQueen was her knight, and she would lead him to the tops.
I called his mother and said, that she had created a genius.
His mother had said, that an insane woman had called.
I called 6-8 times a day, before I catch him. "Hello?"
I would make an appointment, but he did not know who I was.
- No, I just wanted money. - I just wanted the clothes.
She was told: "350. Take it if you want."
She was quite dear.
It was only when I saw his show in Bluebird Garage-
- that I realized that What I had unleashed.
He said, that it was my profit.
It was nicely said, but that was not true at all.
He had fought to the tops all by yourself.
All fashion creators will create one illusion, which shakes and fascinates.
Clothes are beautiful, but there is a reality out there.
People will think that everything is rosy, but I say it as it is.
In the 1990s, clothes were made to go in town in, clothes for a special evening.
It was planned which club, which people and what dj you wanted to see.
Lee took everything. It is one of his strengths.
Lee took a lot of Bowery, which is cross-border and provocative.
He would transfer that to the catwalk.
Lee used the fetish language with rubber, latex and leather-
-and took it with her fashion design.
We became lovers-
- and it was useful, because I could also sew.
There was anyone who could sew. You did not have to be skilled-
- Just wanted to sit in the tailoring for 16 hours and was fun.
Lee was the uninvited, naughty schoolboy-
- Who made a fuss with everyone at the pub.
It was him I loved.
Put your hands on it!
I've always wanted to.
When I met Lee the first time, I lived at Hoxton Square.
One day a guy came, which had moved in below.
"Come in and have a cup of tea." He asked what I was doing.
I made hair and makeup for men.
"I'll show you soon." hair and makeup on the boys? "
"Do not you want to see my job? I have never worked at fashion shows. "
"No, I can feel it."
One day he said he would make his own collection.
How could he believe, that he could?
He had no money, no resources-
-this sister, support or charity
But he had decided.
I have survived on assistance.
I bought all my textiles on assistance.
I went home to my parents and got cans with beans and soup.
It is...
It's my daddy.
He would need a logo. We then asked my girlfriend.
It was my idea to place the C inside in the Q, but Dave made the rest.
He could make people work separately. We were never paid.
We paid him to work for him. Unbelievable, not?
Just to be part of his vision.
He had an attraction.
It's like Warhol.
Dance to success. Come on!
Isabella would call him Alexander-
- because it sounded better and more romantic for a designer.
Issie got criticism to make him nice on it.
She would make him a success. Managed.
Why do you love her? - She's like me. Do not care.
We are not like everyone else and have our own opinion about things.
When you love someone, you are fit on those who were their own garden.
People go to the garden or cook. My ingredient is clothes.
She presented him to everyone.
What began as work, became a creative friendship.
She was always excited and wanted See the next new and crowded people.
It was never about money. I never saw money being exchanged.
I remember all the laughter and creativity.
They were on an adventure, a rocket against the moon.
You are a hungry little crab.
At first there were happy days. Short-lived but beautiful and fun.
Issie had no children, so she gave all his love for his protege.
Alexander made me laugh. They had a dirty form of humor.
He described Issie as a blend of Lucrezia Borgia and a fisherman's census.
Issie had vulgar humor. Everything that dick and pussy ...
I was a little ... The kind of humor did not just me
Was McQueen rough, was Issie always worse. They loved to egg each other.
Alexander loves birds, so I have made this hatred.
We're going to fly with falcons tomorrow, for Alexander loves birds.
We're going to fly with falcons tomorrow.
We went to Hilles sometimes.
We ended up in Issies costume box-
and took amazing costumes.
Her world was so far from it, we came from
It was a bit unreal, but we always felt at home there.
Lee felt very much at home there.
She was a crazy big sister to be together with.
For Issie it was about being different.
The cutter, the more she loved it.
The norm is not me. You do not develop with a safe card.
You piss a lot of.
His first shows were incredible. People lost their breath.
People emigrated, that was bitter criticism, but everything else faded.
People should not leave from there and feel, that it was boring.
They must feel disgust or enthusiasm.
Only they feel something. If not, I have not done it well enough.
Alexander's clothes are emotional.
This jacket is based on a homeless-
- the money that lives on the street-
- but it's great to wear. It is passion, love-
sex dating, sex and romance.
The thought was never to produce.
I would create attention-
- and a name for the designer Alexander McQueen.
The clothes could not be restored. It was made of plastic bags and tape.
Lee made the so-called bumsters, That revealed the model's hairs.
It has never been about pubic hair.
It's about changing the body proportions and get a longer torso.
It's not about showing numb, but that's a bonus.
He said they were going to stab Sexuality in the Mount of Anna Wintour.
It's fun and naughty.
Are you giving Alexander 500 pounds, he creates 30 pieces of clothes.
He made a dress of some plastic film on the floor.
He put the model on it, put a zipper I sent her on the catwalk.
To take a tire and drive it over a suit ...
Brilliant.
Lace for four pounds. Invisible zipper one pound. Spray with auto paint.
It has cost less than ten pounds to make.
But because it was made by Lee, was demanded.
They wanted one for Sharon Stone.
Someone should fly the dress over with Concorde.
I'm still mad about it, that I did not flew into Concorde.
It was me.
There was, that it started to get wild.
The show went well, but I'm missing milk. Where do I find 42 pence?
We went to McDonald's and bought two cheeseburgers.
I was so tired that I lost the ground, but we collected the food.
We have participated in London Fashion Week but can not afford food.
That's the way it is. You can make beautiful shows, but one has to live.
BBC1 with 12 million viewers.
22 years. He would not be filmed for interview. He decided.
I made the shows while I was on assistance so I did not have to show me.
I could be arrested to work.
Were you mad? It was otherwise meant.
I drove the style like him from the east end.
A hooligan who could use a needle.
People could not understand it. It was new, a breath of fresh air.
Savile Row, Cockneygut. He knew it was seductive.
I'm getting annoyed when I'm reading the. He was not a mess.
He was affectionate and happy as a child and very generous.
A beautiful face.
I once remember their home.
I said the word "pis" in front of his mother.
He said, "You shall not fathom gang in front of my mother. "
We were never poor as such. My husband drove the taxi.
Although we had six children, they did not lack anything.
It just feels ...
... as an honest place. You know where you have each other.
Will anyone rob one, they say so first. I'm just kidding.
From my grandfather he got his humor, which could be harsh.
I know, boy.
I think it was difficult to come from that background.
I told my father that I was gay. Everyone else knew it.
But my dad said things like "skid gays" and it was difficult.
Dad could be tough, but it was too funny.
One could easily misunderstand him.
Lees Dad never understood completely, what Lee was doing
My dad would have, that I should be a mechanic.
That was not how it was.
From grandma he got the narrative. The gloomy romance of the 19th century.
It worked well with his visions and what he wanted to tell.
- It's ok, mom. - Not me. I'm too ugly.
Come on mom.
- You destroyed the camera. - I know.
She was very strong.
There was much that was not said, but they had a strong bond.
She gave him the feeling, that he could do everything.
I encouraged them to read and have many books.
I can do it myself like history and such.
This is about Scottish clans.
She researched the McQueen genus-
- and wanted to prove that they came from the McQueen genus on the Isle of Skye.
It opened his world.
He was born in Stratford, but also had roots in Scotland.
She encouraged the fantasies, and Lee jumped on it.
There are two kinds of Scotland, to which people relate.
Vivienne Westwoods Scotland with the clan and silk.
My legacy is the Jacobites, the war between Englishmen and Scotts-
- where the Englishmen raped women and committed genocide against the clans.
It does not know people. How many have died in Bosnia?
It's genocide. People do not know that it still happens.
He was different.
He had more of an artist's energy than a fashion designer.
I called his mother and said, that I would work for her son.
I got the address and went there.
Then we cooperated in the collection "Highland Rape" -
-and tried to get the clothes ready.
Sometimes he had not begun on something that should soon be ready.
Then he made a series of sketches, and then the collection was ready.
Very fast and fluid.
He was creative at night. Adrenaline was more alive.
We put music on.
He listened to piano music. It became important.
Composers Michael Nyman became part of the team.
I enjoyed watching him sit like an old lady-
-with a needle and fingerball.
One could feel, that it was therapeutic for him.
He went into himself, and his eyes became black.
He was so focused that he almost did not hear his surroundings.
He could only sketch a jacket with a piece of chalk without measuring.
He could measure his eyes and draw it on the fabric.
Lee was romantic and it bounces in the physical relationship with the product.
It pounds in the craftsmanship.
The family was always invited. It was important that grandmother came.
He would make her proud.
Moster Renee and mother gave models food, probably sausage horn.
We young cool English models-
- pleased to meet the man with that rumor.
I was amazed over all the people and photographers.
"You gentle. They are here to see Lee. Only they will not be disappointed. "
"It's just Lee from Stratford."
The darkness. To go down into the deep-
- and the mind of the mind to create "Highland Rape".
"The girls must look as if they have just been raped. "
We looked, as we just got out of a hedge.
"Should hair and makeup be like that?"
It's not clothes that are easy to look at. It looks like something from a crime scene.
I thought he did not like women or models.
He did not like anything and just wanted to bother us.
But his visions and silhouettes ...
He got us to look absolutely amazing.
I did not understand as just 15-year-
all the connotations.
It was only the next day when I read the newspaper and read the review.
The show's message was quite intense. He was on all sides.
That's what he wanted. Managed.
A politician from Dagenham believes, that it is inadmissible.
Alone title will shock and attract attention.
It has happened and it is sad.
Women will look fashionable, but not portrayed as victims.
I'm not a woman's hate.
I want to show how a man takes from a woman. It is rape.
My big sister was beaten by his husband.
Looking at her 8-year-old sister near be quenched by his husband-
- do you want to do everything possible, that women appear stronger.
You may not like his honesty-
- and find it tasteless and misogynist. That was his truth.
The clothes tells about Lee. It's almost like confessions.
It's about things, which happened in his childhood.
We sat in the apartment one evening, when he said,
"I was abused by my brother-in-law, when I was a child."
It just came out, and he began to cry.
We started talking-
- but pretty fast he would not talk about it anymore.
What he saw ... The violence against my mother, my father's abuse of him.
The violence they were both exposed to, tied them together.
They were both mistreated of the same.
It gave them a special bond.
Lee saw my mother as a parent figure, as he would protect-
and mother would protect him.
I carried a rather heavy burden on my shoulders.
I and Lee always had stood close and ...
As a child, Lee had seen some violent episodes in the home.
It must have affected him.
He had to go with it.
How could he get the demons out, protect women and themselves-
- by creating strong women wearing a form of armor for his heart.
I always say, that our relationship lasted four seasons.
The collections and shows marked-
- how close our work Linked to our relationship.
When I think about it, I do not know, how it could work
With all that happened in his life, everything in his past ...
How can any relationship do it?
I have to question by my motivation to be in the industry.
Therefore, it must be successful. I do what's going on.
You do not for fame and glamor.
First year at Saint Martins you go to Paris.
The idea is, to go to art exhibitions-
-but we only went to fashion shows.
We saw one, which was full of flowers and chiffon.
Lee thought it was worthless. Ussel display.
"Givenchy is the pure shit. It's for old ladies. "
"I will never work such a place. "
French haute couture will be British. After John Galliano's shift to Dior-
- Alexander McQueen is appointed to make Givenchys summer collection.
It was an exciting time to cover fashion on, for the industry changed.
People like Bernard Arnault bought small marks and made them big.
First, he picked up John Galliano, which was moved to Dior.
They should use another new one, young talent to Givenchy.
- Why did he want you? - He said I was his horse.
I do not know if that was the look, but I was the horse he was focusing on.
I lived with Lee, when Givenchy called.
He thought, that he should draw a handbag.
"Wow! That was cool."
Then he suddenly came in and said-
that they had asked him to be creative director of Givenchy.
"It's just a lie!"
He called and said, that he had been offered a job. "
"Do you take if I move to Paris? "
That was exciting, but also scary-
because it was at the beginning of the relationship.
Why move to Givenchy, when you already were a name?
Named the Designer of the Year two consecutive years.
A reason. That was good money.
The money from Givenchy goes into the McQueen-
- so I can hire and build my company.
He really took talented people along. What a team.
He would need a team, and he had me in mind.
"Think about it." "Not necessary. I'm on."
We flew from City Airport and were the most sophisticated people on the plane.
The others were businessmen. We sat in bleached jeans and attitude.
- Is it in Japan? - No.
Wow!
It was wildly exciting.
To get so much responsibility and so much money of that age.
There was Sebastian Pons. - Hi Sebastian!
Sweaty armpits. It shows.
In McQueen's tailoring I was a bit like a clown.
They made fun of my accent. A Spanish fool in a British court.
- Simon Costin. Did you make any fun?
I was the one, which created the context.
The stage was the collection silent account.
We had Katy England.
Katy is the most important part of McQueen.
Camera up.
She completes me. She nurtures my imagination.
I am doing research for the collection.
I make him aware of things, which I find important.
I am always by his side.
Shaun Leane was with and made jewelry.
What do you say? Would you like to dance?
It's perfect for me. I can switch between extremes.
Now I've started with body jewelery.
It is a form of sculpture.
Sarah Burton was our intern.
He saw us as his supporters, which would make him safe.
We rented a nice apartment.
I loved the area. Place des Vosges, hello.
God, how scary is it?
It was so small. When I arrived To work, I sat on the couch.
Sebastian! Can we have chambermaids?
I always slept in the Lees room, because he fell asleep on the couch.
Lee?
- Have you changed the pillows? - Gu, I have that.
We had a driver and were driven around.
Now he is unclear. That was better.
Say hi to them in England.
It was so funny.
We can make fun tricks.
I'm on speed, taxes.
When we came to Givenchy-
- stood all and bent for him and called him "monsieur McQueen".
"Do you call you McQueen monsieur?"
Cath!
When we arrived they were shaken-
- about our clothes and working style, and how we made fun.
There was a chandelier feeling. Quite different to the London-based sister-
- which was a small room with things everywhere.
Here's my office. I'm just calling, then I get what I want.
Because I want it! So I ask for it.
We were just a bunch of kids, who ran around at Givenchy.
- Did they surprise you? "Most people went closest to coma.
Suddenly we sit there at Givenchy-
-and see Balenciaga through the window.
There was Yves Saint Laurent.
Galliano was on Avenue Montaigne just nearby.
There we sat with Alexander McQueen, which was the latest one.
I felt special.
He should make great impression, since it was his first collection.
I said, "Everyone is looking at us, but we have nothing. "
He always replied: "It's alright."
We get the ideas at the last minute.
They just come to me. It comes from God.
I always look for signs.
This is Paris-chic. It's Givenchy, not McQueen.
Elegant suits are made here of beautiful fabrics.
My brand will be 40 years about getting such a reminder.
We saw a beautiful piece of clothes.
Lee asked Chief Catherine The Londres, who had sewn it.
She did not have to come in.
"What do you mean? Close her in!"
From then on-
- would Lee meet the one who had worked directly with the clothes.
They loved it.
It's the Bet Lynch dress.
We have treated it with plastic-
so you can also get a raincoat.
None of us spoke French. Nobody spoke English in the tailor-made.
Lee had to draw in the air, how it should be
- But there are skirts. - Okay.
Well, now I understand. I thought it was trousers.
I get scared when he takes the scissors forward. That's the way it is.
When he plays with the scissors ... He has cut something for me.
A pair of trousers. He changed them from pants to a body.
So now I'm scared when he takes the scissors forward.
They are precise and remove the threads. I'm just wondering.
They do so ... But it's just clothes.
I never forget her facial expression. But she understood it.
She was impressed, and there was great mutual respect.
It's about the tailoring. I'm from Savile Row.
I respect the tailors. They deserve the same respect as I do.
One day, Lee asked, where the workers eat
Catherine said, that there was a canteen in the basement.
Lee meant that we should go down there, and everyone flipped out.
"Does Alexander eat here?" They could not grasp it.
Fashion houses treat the designer like a king.
Lee too, but he did not want to behave like a king.
Lee would be an ordinary person.
Fine.
The ideas of the show arose from the collection.
He drew on stories from there. There were pictures and patches everywhere.
Everyone contributed. It was a group work.
But Lee was the spider in the net and assembled everything-
-and distilled his ideas.
I remember the week for a show, when making changes.
It was insane. The pressure was huge.
It is too different. One can not show a lot of different.
We have just introduced all the diamonds in a department.
Otherwise it will be messy.
25 days to create a collection With 55 pieces of clothing is not easy.
The first theme was the golden skins, Jason and the Argonauts.
They asked for something amazing.
My impression was that Alex would have-
-a mixture of warriors and goddesses.
"We can make horns." "Yes, make them big."
"How big?" "Greater than Djengis Khans."
It is January 19, 1997, and we are witnesses to a fashion experience.
He is only 27 years old and winner of the British fashion award.
Alexander McQueen must show its first haute couture collection.
Each model should have a role, an identity and a signature.
Every girl could have been his own show.
The inspiration came from the logo.
The G looks like a Greek motive-
- and Givenchy's logo is in white and gold.
As always with Lees collections was there something that was a little daring.
The press focused on it, there was outright-
or impossible to join
French designers complained, that they were not French-
and thought he destroyed Givenchy.
He showed, that he was still himself.
"Even if you put me in one beautiful palace, I am myself. "
They were true to themselves.
They brought England to Paris in their own way.
People talked. Fashion Editors.
"He is a cowboy. The British. What are they thinking of? "
I gradually realized, that the world was against him.
- Your first show was no success. - Correct. Thank you.
They wanted, that he should fail and get a downturn.
They have claws and knives and stabbing everything in the back of the one-
-but i strike again
I can remember afterwards. Lee was ...
... devilish. It was difficult. It was a tough night.
There were some blows and quarrels.
He has done a lot. Givenchy has received a lot of money.
It's not easy. McQueen is McQueen in London-
- but at Givenchy shall he take over after another?
He is going to haul a dinosaur on land. He has done that in a season.
In a year he could do 20 times more.
Givenchy changed everything. Morning was over.
My accountant, who could French, should sign a contract in Paris.
Issie should get something, but McQueen said it was not about money.
When the money came, and Alexander held her outside, it was hard.
The friendship changed. She was hurt.
Had she had a salon at Givenchy, they had been best in Paris.
We were at Hilles, right after he had started at Givenchy.
The tension between them was overwhelming.
They think you created me. It has never been about it.
- They do not think so. - Yes, they do.
They always say that in the media.
"Isabella Blow discovered Philip Treacy and Alexander McQueen. "
It has never been about it.
Does it annoy you that they say, that Isabella Blow discovered you?
No, Issie has helped me a lot, but not that way.
She does it, because she loves my clothes.
- That's the whole point. "I can not betray her.
I am just kidding.
I sat and wanted to that he would let Issie be.
She had only helped him. But he was after her all the time.
Issie could make him a success. He did not care about that.
He would stand on his own, and there was no room for Isabella.
A punishment.
I remember that he said, that now it was him who was king-
and it was not meant to be sweet.
We did not have to show vulnerability, but keep your head high.
Something might happen.
His star rose, but not her. He left her.
Issie got a job for the Sunday Times. He said she was resurrected.
"I can not thank you for that."
I was like a gazelle in the eyes of the media and the public.
The gazelle is always eaten. This is how I see human life.
Anyone can be discarded. A designer's time The media are perishable.
One day you're gone. It's a tough world.
I went to his studio in London. He talked about his show.
"I tried to make them happy. But now it will be more McQueen. "
"Up in the ass with you all. I'll show you. "
We went from the fine sale at Givenchy-
- to a raw borough market with raw fruit from the earth.
It was good to show them the harsh of the city neighborhoods and scare them a little.
It's not about haute couture and Givenchy. It's another McQueen.
Photographers at the front.
To the London shows expectations were high.
In Paris, it was more formal and booked.
In London people sat and shouted and screamed.
It was insane. People were beaten to see the catwalk.
Lee ran around between the models and shouted at all.
Simon, let's go. Go out there!
He ran around all the time. Arranged details and stressed around.
Everyone is ready.
- Is Russell ready? - Yes.
One of the models was delayed and He said, "Pour with her. We're driving."
He said, "Go ahead." He drove me up.
I came out on the catwalk and ...
It was the first time, the collection permeated all-
- from the energy of the room to the effect it had on people.
Anxiety, anger and fear was a red thread throughout the show.
We were overwhelmed.
They did not look like models, but expensive-
-with big hair and animal makeup.
It was ... It was intense.
Some students were broken through barriers and overturned fire.
Then there was a fire.
There were some car loads, as we had not emptied of gasoline.
The car broke on fire. It says a burning car on the catwalk.
Everyone thought, that it was part of the show.
"You may just dare to to pick up fire extinguishers! "
"Send models on the catwalk!"
If it did not end so well-
Had it been? with fashion writers and models.
It was typical of the wonderful, crazy and genius Lee.
My privacy and my work are closely connected to each other.
With my shows Can I express my feelings.
Have you moved from London and to Paris?
I live both places. Half a year in every city.
My dog lives in London, and I miss him.
The journey between the cities to accommodate both companies-
-very very worn-
- but he did it and his shows were amazing.
The pressure was enormous at the time.
He had his own brand plus ready-to-wear and haute couture.
One could feel it on him.
LVMH's favorite designer was Dior.
Lee felt they compared him with Galliano.
He found out-
- John had four times bigger budget to create its collection.
We loved McQueen. Givenchy was like a town brother.
We knew, that our time there did not last forever.
When we arrived in Paris, was read clothes very rigid.
I think he discovered a soft side in Paris.
We took it to London with us.
Within No. 13 I remember, that he was happy
Lee had a clear vision of, what he wanted.
We went from the meeting and were amazed over the clear vision.
He had colors and shapes. He worked harmoniously.
It was my first show with Lee. He liked robots.
Lee talked about robots and a model, and we just thought:
"Oh no. Do not bounce again. Frankly."
We hoped he would drop it.
The evening before the show came the robot, but we had no dress.
I told the tailor that we should use a dress for the final.
Someone found a lot of bulls, And he said, "There we have it."
They said it was impossible. He said it went.
It was Lee. He got people to make it impossible.
Some technicians steered the robots. Lee wanted more of it.
Lee began to instruct them-
- and it became amazing choreography where she turned around.
There stood Shalom Harlow with two robots-
-It seemed to be able to think myself.
It was the first time I stayed impressed by my own show.
What person / machine ... I have never before cried to my shows.
Lee lived his dream.
He would never give up, even though was hard. You only get one chance.
The first time i realized that Lee was famous-
- when a stranger came and asked for his autograph.
He thought it was scary.
Something had happened. He was known outside the fashion world.
That with the fame and that people ran after him-
-not what was important.
"The important thing is what I'm doing."
I wish he had gotten a normal life and been self-
-and that pressure at such a young age.
I knew Lee, since he had nothing.
I saw him becoming a millionaire and a little more.
The more money he got, the more unhappy he worked.
With the money came the drugs. That was sad.
Cocaine made me see some things-
-In a very clear and honest light.
When it was worst, there was way too much work.
It had to go wrong. It's not a good substance.
I can not change myself.
It got bad, when the pressure on him became too big.
He unfortunately handled it a way that was not good for him.
There was aggression and paranoia with.
He was still good, but was another person.
I make ten collections a year. It is hard.
Givenchy came to me, not the other way round.
I was angry when I said that I should be fired. That was not true.
You can run me. I do what I want.
Our relationship changed. He had two sides.
He could show up and be in a good mood and laugh.
Other times it was a devil, that entered.
He had his demons.
The darkness created incredible creativity and an ingenious artist.
I had got tattooed "McQueen" on his arm.
When he saw that I had got it drawn over, it was over.
Lee was romantic as always flirted with the idea of love.
I do not think he saw it.
He was in love with his work.
He did not trust anyone.
Was the girlfriend not there, he suspected him for adultery.
It was very difficult for him.
Fashion is about attraction, sexuality and to show who you are.
You probably think I'm stupid-
- and thick. I would like to weigh less. That's the way it is.
When I got a liposuction, I stood the worst in the fashion industry.
It was a crazy period.
He said it was a mistake to change its appearance.
"I lost myself."
There was ten years between Lee McQueen, who was employed by me-
- to the slim figure dressed in Comme des Garçons.
A figure he would not be. Persona Alexander McQueen.
McQueen works as a family. The community must be there.
I've probably been an even tougher boss.
I check all the small details in all departments.
The time is 6.
Do not mind her.
She's just gonna do it a couple of hours more.
It was not simple no fun anymore.
- I do not like it. - I'll take it off.
I have never worked better.
There were dark times with him and times, which was bright.
We chose to be there ourselves. Now and then we chose not to be there.
I broke up once upon Givenchy because of the workload.
It went beyond our health.
I became an adult in the company. I was no longer a little boy.
The older I stayed, the more it grew up to me-
- That situation felt claustrophobic.
Sebastian!
Come on, your ugly bitch.
You should give everything to McQueen.
One should fit his dogs, work many hours at any time.
This weekend you had to work or be with Lee.
We went on holiday together.
I can forge his signature.
I felt confined, even though I loved what I was doing.
I tried to talk to him, But it did not go so well.
When I wanted to stop, he said: "There is no way back."
When I traveled, it was really sad.
None...
Nobody came and ...
After all that, I had put it in ...
Unfortunately, Lee took things very personal-
- without thinking on the other's experiences or needs.
He took it personally when someone stopped. He felt betrayed.
There have been major changes in the company. People have stopped.
Everything feels a bit uncertain.
You go through life and try to get to know himself-
- and understand why you make the mistakes you make.
Many in the fashion industry suffer from anxiety, panic attacks and depression.
The industry provides nutrition to the ego. It has a negative effect.
The idea of Voss was a padded cell.
You lose yourself and it will be a darkness that holds one as a hostage.
When Lee was, as he was, an idea was not enough.
There should be a box in the middle like a theatrical climax.
When he explained to me, he did not see me in my eyes.
"It's about death, beauty and rebirth. It will be beautiful."
I expected non-
that he would restore Joel-Peter Witkin's picture.
When I gathered at Witkin, I went through a gloomy phase of six-
-to get to know myself
It is quite macabre. How should I do that?
I seriously said that I probably should do it for the art.
He looked at me and said, "We are all well."
The stage was Kubricks' space trip in 2001 "meets mental hospital.
There was a two-way mirror. When the fashion people came and sat down
they themselves in the mirror.
The music began with a heartbeat, which went faster and faster.
We did not really know what should happen. The audience did not think so.
Fashion is a big bubble. Now and then I want to blow it up.
As it gets started, we can look inside. The models can not see the audience.
It seemed to be voyeurism.
The bandage about the heads of the models gave a sense of disease-
and madness
Once I had just been operated, and Lee came to visit.
When he saw me in bandage, he said:
"Where is it just fat?"
He sucked himself like a mushroom-
- and so beautiful in the ugly as with my bandage.
Life is not perfect. We do not look like all models.
But there is beauty in the viewer's eyes.
The last picture was of a big one woman with a lot of night warriors.
It sounds like a joke. You can do well See that humorous in it.
Thick ladies and night warriors. Is it the worst nightmare of fashion?
If I look at collections, and what am I jealous of?
If collections are amazing?
Tom was a god in the industry.
Although Lee was a rebel and completely different-
did he probably flatter and move over
- that one like Tom Ford was interested in him.
He was smart enough to realize, that he needed the money.
It's expensive to run this company.
McQueen has never gone bankrupt.
I want success and be self-employed.
I can see the McQueen light at the end of the tunnel.
The best thing about Lee is that he is poetry ... he protests enough.
... poetry and trade in one. He is very practical.
He understands that there must be beautiful, marketable products.
Gucci was clever. They offered him something, he could not say no to:
They took over the firm, but allowed him to retain 50 percent.
There were secret meetings, so LVMH did not hear about it.
They did not know anything, before it was a reality.
I kept trembling over Tom, that it was my project.
- Do you have to design what you want? - 100 percent.
I wanted an investor-
- and then Gucci reported. The rest is history.
Au revoir, Givenchy!
FAIRLIGHT, EAST SUSSEX
I'm drawn by the ocean. I am born in the sign of the fish.
When it rains or snows, and you hear the waves
It is very melancholy, but romantic.
Sometimes you just have to have a break.
Get away from it all and not think of business or shows-
-and just keep a break.
I must have nature around me.
It is older than the house. It's over 400 years old.
It's an elm, and it is illuminated at night.
It's good inspiration.
My friends are coming to visit.
We turn up in the fireplace, watching movies and listening to music.
It's relaxing.
He was very much together with my mother in that house.
I am grateful for that time. We looked more to each other.
We did things together.
My family gives me stability. Fashion can be a superficial industry.
When I started, there was nothing like that.
Closer we will not on haute couture in England.
Everyone here is a student, so we train them-
- and leave them get the foot inside the industry.
Lee knew, that I have always loved drawing.
The years went by. I worked at a dump.
Lee would use a textile designer for men's clothes and staff me.
Lee was glad I was there.
Primarily on a creative level-
- but also to have one, which reminded him of childhood.
I had a hard period of anxiety.
It was hard to do things, I did not want for Givenchy-
- but I had accepted that it was the life to which I was born.
He controlled the mood.
For the most part he was lovely to be together with.
He was the bounty and the drones added all the queen's signals.
It could be felt. He had one childish way to make fun with everyone.
It made an easy one and nice working atmosphere.
It always happened something creative. It excited everyone.
I speak very clearly with that, I create.
All I do is personal, even Kate Moss as a hologram.
It's essential for a while, where I am one with heaven and earth.
Do you want to get to know me, do you have to look at my works?
- What is fashion for you? - My life.
PERSONALITY DOOR ONLY 48 YEARS OLD
Issie died proudly and had achieved its wildest dreams.
Issie's death was a shock to many, also for Alexander.
A huge shock.
He participated in Issie's funeral. I have never seen anyone so broken.
I did not recognize him. He sat right behind me.
There was a man in a kilt and traditional Scottish hat.
"You goodest, that's McQueen."
His facial expressions were unforgettable. I felt with him.
One could see his pain.
I could see love. It was true love between the two.
Issie was something between a sister and a mother.
She was in between, and Lee loved Issie.
Issie and McQueen was united with a sorrow.
Alexander had been abused. It had ruined his innocence.
Issie was struck by sorrow when she was five years and her brother died.
It was not Issie's fault, but she felt responsible.
There was a destructive side, which she could not get rid of.
It grew bigger and more and more serious.
I do not take drugs, but medicine. I have to reassure myself with pills.
The way to her self-destruction was clear.
Issie thought she would not stay on forever.
She could not look as old. Fashion is about youth.
To discover someone is like being a mother. The milk is released.
Issie planned his death and would say goodbye to McQueen.
She planned a weekend-
- and had trouble with a nice dinner.
Alexander was exhausted, when he came and stayed in his room.
He could not give her it, she needed.
With them they met and left farewell.
Big hug and kiss. "See you in the next world."
When you are ill you are very alone.
Issie had ovarian cancer and did not want kemo.
Issie's last words were: "Do you remember when I was a sunbeam?"
"You will always be a sunbeam."
McQueen calls the show "La Dame Bleue" -
- and dedicates it to deceased friend and mentor Isabella Blow.
One saw her in the clothes and felt the smell of her perfume.
Her children, Alexander and Philip, worked frantically behind the scene.
Issie created a bond between them.
Isabella created Alexander and me from nothing-
- with a conviction, which we will never again experience.
Her faith in one did one to the person you are.
When you sat down, saw the scenography and heard the music, you were caught.
One could see her in his design-
- and of course in Philips hats.
It created a mythical figure-
- which was Issie's presence at the show.
It was emotional. I cried incessantly. It hit me out.
Worry is sorrow. You have to go through it.
When they came out, you saw how young they were and that they had lost a friend.
They had loved her high.
It affected Lee vehemently.
After Issie went away-
If it's a dark time for him.
I'm not angry with myself. I am angry with the world.
I can not think of anything else. Everything just gets darker and darker.
We saw television in the evening.
Lee was in the news with his show "The Horn of Plenty".
My father called me and said-
That my insane friend was on television.
When my dad saw the collection, he said:
"I think, that your friend is insanely serious. "
"The Horn of Plenty" shows fashion world-
- like a pile of waste.
In the years we were apart, We would have both thought so much.
I called him:
"Hi, that's Lee." "Hi, it's Sebastian."
"Where the hell have you been for so long, your asshole? "
We started again as the brothers, we had been.
I took the ferry to Ibiza and drove out to his house.
When he opened, I was shaken-
- for the person who closed up, was a completely different one.
He was thin and so fragile and pale.
When I gave him a hug, could I feel the change-
because he was just skins and legs.
There were hardly any muscles or meat on the bones.
Lee had an idea for a show with a metamorphosis.
His face should be transformed to a skull.
Everything in his life had emerged to that suffering.
Lee was HIV positive.
Even if it's not is a death sentence in itself-
- I think, that he always had that in mind.
There was a bad mood, when he was depressed and depressed.
Read problem was always after a show.
He had worked so hard. It was followed by a downturn.
Then he started the next show.
It was a show after the show. I do not know how he did it.
The pressure is quite big now-
- because of the contract with Gucci.
I make men's clothes and McQ.
There are 14 collections a year as with Givenchy. That's a lot.
He was playing with the thought just to travel away.
But his name and reputation were at stake.
He could not leave it, he had built up.
If I grow old and must leave the company-
- I burn it down to the ground. Nobody is going to work there.
You will not let anyone take over McQueen's tradition or brand-
-If you are not involved.
I do not think. The...
The concept behind my shows is so personal.
How would it be?
I asked him to take a break. He said I did not understand.
"I am in charge of 50 people, who will pay off loans. "
"I can not just go."
I always thought, that there was so much sorrow in him.
That was sad, because he had so much success-
It was terribly lonely.
It can be very lonely.
There is more in life than fashion.
I do not want to get stuck in that bubble.
I see how everyone else goes home and closes off
- but I'm Alexander McQueen, even if the door is closed.
I have to live with myself.
Have I had a bad day, it's only my fault.
He behaved fine, when he was with us.
But we knew he was not ...
He was not 100 percent.
He heard voices and said, that they hunted him.
He often said: "Paranoia destroys one."
I remember that I made a sketch with many cameras.
The cameras could sit on robots.
The camera was close. The audience would be monitored and shaken.
The idea of "Platon's Atlantis" is that man returns to the sea.
I'm looking for something that does not exist.
It's an incredible place.
I can not imagine anything in my imagination actually exist.
He loved swimming and diving and being in an underwater world.
Far from everything, like being back in the uterus and flow around.
The calm feeling you get from it.
"Platon's Atlantis" arose in his head-
- with digital press, experiments and pattern cutting.
The robots were in again.
He said he had made his last collection.
He said he had had enough and would kill himself.
"What do you mean?"
"I am tired of it all. I just want it to end. "
"For my last show ... Do you remember Voss? "
"I do the same, but with a big plastic box. "
"When the show ends, does it rise from the floor ...
... with me in, and so I shoot myself. "
I did not know, how to respond
He sounded very convinced.
My life has always been full of ups and downs.
Stop. I would like to
He thought-
-and the whole fashion world was against him.
I said, "No, nobody is against you."
"But if you implement it, do you want to hurt many people? "
"People come to your shows to see your beauty and your talent. "
"To see you and what you create."
He was like a film director. We should be like space creatures.
"You must have a strong expression on the face. "
That show was like a bombing. It should be over.
Everything is over. We are born again and start over again.
I was afraid and tried to avoid stumbling.
He should be proud of me-
- and beyond that he had a whole host of models.
The pressure could be a fish fin or dandruff from a snake-
- which was manipulated and put together into a pattern-
-which became something unrecognizable.
It was the digital one ages entered into fashion.
Although he was not happy, was that his best collection.
He knew that he needed for something revolutionary.
It is "Platon's Atlantis".
I did not join the show, because my mother was in dialysis.
Lee would not look in the eyes, that we would lose mom.
He had lost Issie-
- and could not really handle that mother was ill.
I will tell my followers, that my mother died yesterday. Rest in peace.
After my grandmother died ...
... he was so bad.
Lee was desperate. We sat in the living room with father.
Lee was not himself.
Everyone was in grief about mother's death-
- but we were worried about Lee, for mom and Lee ...
Lee, dear mother.
Loved Mom. I love you so much-
and will always love you. Hug, Lee.
The last assignment he assigned me, was designing the tombstone.
It should be with wings, who embraced grandmother.
Initially, the hands rested on the tombstone-
- but he saw, that they pressed down.
He wants, that they should lift and turn upwards.
I called Lee and ...
We talked about ... Mom's funeral.
It was the last time we talked together.
I may feel sad in my work, but I'm not bitter.
I am grateful for everything in life, but I know when to end.
That night I lay in bed and read.
I could feel something that touched My head is very gentle and cautious.
I wondered who it was.
I knew someone had gone away and said goodbye.
On February 11, 2010-
the evening before her mother's funeral-
- took Lee Alexander McQueen his own life.
I was called by my sister at 9.30 this morning.
That call ...
... changed ...
...everything.
I could not understand what they said, because it was unreal.
Just the idea that Lee had been all alone when he did it.
I saw it to me and it ...
It's not the best way ... Suicide by hanging.
The...
I do not want to think what he has thought and how lonely he has been.
The fashion world is shaken after the news about Alexander McQueen's death.
British fashion's favorite is dead.
... in just 40 years is found dead.
Alexander McQueen is dead.
Alexander McQueen, 40 years old, is dead.
We have been reported, that the English fashions are dead.
He often said:
"One day I come home in a sleeping bag. "
The day when ...
You saw in the news that day-
that he left his house in a sleeping bag
I was with the kids to Hamley's 100th Anniversary.
My partner picked me up and ... It's not possible. I can not.
He said Lee was dead.
It was a shock and I was very angry for a very long time.
For ... How could it end that?
I think...
Maybe ... After mother had gone away-
- did he feel that nothing ever could make him happy again.
I think that at the moment he ...
... felt emptiness.
I miss him a lot.
I miss...
He could have gotten so much happiness in his life-
- but it did not succeed on the private level.
I would have liked him.
I am so glad that that i met him
... and that I got permission to become part of his story.
But I miss him. I wish-
that it had ended differently.
He just wanted to create beautiful things. He was a sculptor.
It was from there that the silhouette came.
His clothes expressed, that you can be feminine, but say:
"Do not try anything. I'm a bitch. "
What I remember best, is to see him work.
It was magical to me. He was like a wizard.
A creation could be insane and the next genius.
No one could create feelings to a show like Lee McQueen.
For Lee, fashion was a way to communicate with the world
He did not want focus on its own but on the art.
High-Rise, Contrast, incredibly fun and targeted.
He had a unique vision and was a unique person.
His strong personality was phenomenal.
You do not meet many who are. They are not seen as often.
Lee founded Sarabande-
- which gives grants to less-embedded designers.
Over a million so "Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty".
There was record both in New York and London.
Danish texts: www.btistudios.com
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